Boxing kangaroos 2 by aaardvaark is today's hottest shot. Why? Well because Captain Kangaroo premiered on this day in 1955.
Kind of tentative, we know, but we thought this picture was great!
Covering 29.5 square miles, Lopez Island, Washington is the first ferry stop in a cluster of islands called the San Juans, that rise from the Puget Sound and hug the Canadian border. Even during bustling tourist season Lopez Island will make you turn off the laptop and slow down. Wave to the blonde woman named Margie manning the ferry dock as you arrive. She will wave back. Waving is a tradition on this island; there is even a "Lopez wave" consisting of two fingers in a locked together peace sign.
As you make your first twists from the ferry dock, smell the dense trees and dried wild grass. Look for deer: there are many and they are domesticated enough to walk right up to you. Notice a Madrona tree with bark that looks like red peeling paper; scratch the trunk and it turns green. Look out for a Great Blue Heron, they are an elegant and common Lopez Island bird. You can find them almost anywhere in tidal lagoons along the seashore.
You'll see that most people name their driveways after themselves or something original like Pterodactyl Lane, or Baroque 'n Glass Lane. Mailboxes are painted with bald eagles and rich gardens are covered with tall fences to keep deer out. Some people live in make-shift buses, clusters of trailers, or in an A-Frame house. Stop by the Lopez Island Vineyards and pick up a bottle of Siegerrebe. Note that most streets don't have yellow lines and traffic is minimal in any direction. Enjoy the quiet and keep going.
If you're camping, Spencer Spit is the best place to stay. Located on the East side of the island, you can feel good karma there; the Spencer family sold the land to the state for much less than the private offers they received in order to make a state park that everyone could enjoy. Shirley (Spencer) Plummer is 87 years old, and recently became a great, great grandmother, she sits in her living room that overlooks Spencer Spit. It is a stretch of beach like no other, with driftwood, rocks and sand coming together into a single point that stares at Frost Island. The driftwood is easily made into forts. A muddy lagoon lines the spit to the North like a seam and smells as murky as it looks. Pitch your tent along the trees at the mouth of the spit; light a fire; cook some s'mores.
If you like beautiful beaches and down to earth people, you will love Lopez Island. It is a getaway in the simplest sense. Below are 7 things you should do whilst visiting the island.
Iceberg Point – Just past Agate Beach there is a small place to park and then walk into what looks like private residence. When you hit the tree line, turn right down a dirt path; walk through a gate and onto a maintained trail. After less than a mile the trees will open up to the most vast part of the Island; the unprotected South side. Your landscape will be big hills and rocks with tall grass that smells like dry summers. Your view will be of an ocean that seems to go on forever until you see the Olympic Peninsula and Olympic Mountains far in the distance.
Sharks Reef – My favourite spot on the island is Sharks Reef. The water here is treacherous because of undertow and sometimes you will see kayakers twirling and paddling their way through the narrow corridor that separates Lopez Island from San Juan Island. Large pieces of sea kelp that look like women with mermaid hair line the rocks. Here is where you see some of the best tide pools on the Island full of lipids' and sea anemones.
Saturday Farmers Market – Farmers Markets are special no matter where you go. Lopez market's charm lies in its small size. My favourite stall is Marianna's clothing, made of scraps of recycled cloth. She also has a store in the main part of town called Okeydo. Also visit my parent's booth at the market where they sell my brother's photos every Saturday. Introduce yourself!
Horse Drawn Farms – This eco-friendly farm used to use horses to farm the land, but now they use oxen. Produce is pre-picked and you can just drive up, make your selection and leave money based on the honour system. It's as simple and trusting as that.
Community Center – The centre hosts music and community theatre all year long. While you are there, walk North-east to the skate park where young kids are dropping into small half pipes.
The Bay Café – The Bay Café has the most expensive food on the island, averaging at around $20 a plate. But it also offers the most brilliant place to have dinner and watch the sunset as it lies down for the night behind Friday Harbour. The restaurant is run by two local men, with a lot of energy, who know how to bake an amazing cedar salmon. You'll also be guaranteed great hospitality.
Lopez Island Kayaks - Being on an island is amazing enough, getting the chance to see it up close from the water is special too. Rent a kayak, get some advice on routes and get close to the water. If you time your float trip between April and October you may see big rusty-red Lion's mane jellyfish as they make their way towards the beach at low tide.
TRAVELLER'S CHECK LIST
Getting there:
By ferry… Travel from Anacortes on the mainland to Lopez Island. The journey is approximately 85 miles and takes about 45 minutes. For pricing info and to buy tickets click here. On the ferry keep your eyes peeled for bald eagles, seals, otters and the occasional orca whale.
By plane… Kenmore Air fly direct from Seattle to Lopez Island daily. For more information on schedules, pricing and booking click here. The journey takes about 1hr 10 mins.
Where to stay:
- Lopez Islander Resort; PO Box 459, Lopez Island, WA; desk@lopezislander.com
- MacKaye Harbor Inn; 949 MacKaye Harbor Road Lopez Island, WA 98261; (888) 314-6140; innkeeper@mackayeharborinn.com. From USD 135 per night.
- Edenwild; 1-800-606-0662; edenwild@rockisland.com. From USD 170 per night.
- Lopez Lodge; Lopez Lodge, Lopez Island, WA 98261; (360) 468-2816; needle@rockisland.com. From USD 70 per night.
For information on camping on Lopez Island, click here
Where to eat:
- Bay Café - about $30 a person. 9 Old Post Road Suite C, PO Box 692, Lopez, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.3700
- Love Dog Café - $10-$15 per person. 1 Village Center, PO Box 633, Lopez Island, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.2150.
- HollyB's Bakery - $5 or less. Lopez Plz, Lopez Island, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.2133.
- Vortex - $10 per person for wraps and smoothies. Homestead Bldg C, Lopez Island, WA, 98261; Tel: 360.468.4740.
- Isabel's Espresso - $5 or less for espresso drinks. 308 Lopez Rd, Lopez Island, WA, 98261; Tel: 360.468.4114
What to see:
For general information about visit the Lopez Island visitors bureau online here
- Iceburg Point and Sharks Reef: click here for a map of Lopez.
- Saturday Farmer's Market: Community Center.
- Lopez Island Kayak: located at Marinas on Fisherman's Bay 360-468-2847
- Horse Drawn Farms: 2823 Port Stanley Road
Events:
- Fourth of July on Lopez: fun run, parade, salmon bbq and fireworks
- Tour de Lopez (bike tour): last Saturday of April
- Lopez Farmer's Market: May to Sept.
- Artist's Studio Tour: last weekend in August
For more information on Lopez Island events click here
All photographs ©David Svilar.
Volcano and Arch by David A G Wilson has given us itchy feet today.
If you're lucky enough to have a trip to Antigua in the pipeline you should check out the stunning Casa Encantada boutique hotel, which is right in the centre of this 16th century colonial town (and UNESCO World Heritage Site). Bag the rooftop suite for USD 195 per night and enjoy views across to the Agua volcano (pictured above). Caramba!
Top 10 Tips for a weekend break in Yangshuo, China - from how to avoid a hot air balloon crash to rafting the Yulong River.
Even at 500 metres in a faulty hot air balloon Yangshuo is a breathtaking place. At that nail-biting height the region's famous limestone karsts look even more dramatic; their pointed peaks rising up from flat, green rice fields that spread out from the Li and Yulong rivers.
The town of Yangshuo was until recently a sleepy provincial village. Now it's a bustling tourist hub that has seen phenomenal expansion. Visitors are drawn to the town by the busload, eager to soak up its stunning views and raft down rivers made famous through centuries of Chinese paintings and, more recently, scenes from The Painted Veil.
Parts of Yangshuo can feel a bit like a Chinese Disneyland, especially around West Street. If you're prepared to go off-the-beaten track, and to spend just ¥100 a day on using a local guide, it's easy to experience a Yangshuo that's as far away from package tourism and flag-following lemmings as you can imagine.
TIP 1: The lovely Lilly
We used Lilly Lu for the two days that we were there. She speaks excellent English and can arrange everything from a hot air balloon rescue mission to airport transfers to lightshow tickets to unspoiled stretches of river to simple, but utterly delicious, local dining. Lilly has lived in Yangshuo and its nearby villages all her life. She's an expert on what to do and can guide you to places that package tourists can only dream of. For Lilly's contact details and more info on her tour and services, please leave us a comment with your email address at the bottom of this post.
TIP 2: Cycle far, far away
Get those legs pumping and be prepared to spend at least 2.5 – 3 hours in the saddle. Don't fret: it's flat and easy cycling along river banks and through stunning fields and tiny villages. Bike all the way up to the 400-year old Yulong Bridge and then have lunch. If you're with Lilly she'll show you where to go, but if you're heading up alone make sure you go to the first restaurant downstream from the bridge. The food is fantastic – lots of fresh vegetables stir-fried with garlic, the delicious local specialty "beer fish" and local chicken dishes as well. Note: this is not for the squeamish… if you order fish or chicken you'll see the cooks fetching live catfish from the river or live chickens from a hutch that they polish off in the kitchen and then gut. It's really not that bad, and the end result is well worth any misgivings you might have about ending an innocent life!
TIP 3: When it comes to the rivers, don't follow the crowds
The river trips in Yangshuo are one of the big highlights. At the weekend, especially if it's a public holiday, hundreds of people flock to the water to ride on bamboo rafts and squirt each other with enormous water pistols. If throngs of over excited water rats don't spell tranquility in your book, make sure you make the effort get away from the crowds.
For the Yulong River – bamboo rafts punted by boatmen – spend 3 hours in the saddle biking up to Yulong Bridge and escape the crowds. You'll be rewarded with a 2 hour trip downstream in complete quiet and isolation as it only gets busy for the last 10 minutes (and there it's phenomenonally busy). For the Li River – motorized bamboo rafts – hire a car for the day (only ¥300 - ¥550) and drive to XingPing Town. From there head upstream and you'll be on more or less your own.
TIP 4: Get up early
Set your alarm for 6am and head to Moon Hill. This karst peak has a hole straight through it that makes for some seriously impressive photographs.
You can hike to the top of the peak up a concrete staircase. The steps are pretty steep and it can be hard going unless you're a regular gym bunny. During the summer months the weather gets sticky at about 9am so it's well worth rising early to beat the heat. Getting there before breakfast also means you'll have Moon Hill entirely to yourself; we did and it was amazing.
Once you're at the top you can scramble up a dirt track right to the top of the hole. The guides tell you to allow 1.5 hours for a round-trip. If you're fit it'll take more like 45 minutes.
TIP 5: Breakfast late
The tourist groups tend to leave Yangshuo after breakfast to go sightseeing. If you're prepared to stick around you can wander the town's pretty streets in relative peace. We headed in for breakfast at around 9:30 / 10am and everyone had left. After breakfast at Café Mimosa (16 Gui Hua Road) we spent a relaxed hour exploring old streets that are normally swarming with crowds.
TIP 6: Stay out of town
Daily bicycle rents are cheap (from ¥5 - ¥20 per day), as are taxis (from about ¥30 per trip), so it's easy to travel in from a hotel that's slightly out of town.
We stayed at the Li River Retreat, which was about a 10 minute bike ride from the centre of Yangshuo. The hotel has stunning, un-obscured views from its terraces and balconies. Almost all the rooms have private balconies and they're clean and very reasonably priced (from ¥250 - ¥490 per night). Staff are friendly and can speak English. The Yangshuo Mountain Retreat also gets good reviews from friends who have stayed there (from HK$229 – HK$800 per night).
If you're prepared to stay further outside Yangshuo, the new Hotel of Modern Art gets fantastic write ups (from ¥2080 per night). It's the only hotel in China that's a member of the prestigious Relais and Chateaux alliance.
TIP 7: Don't hot air balloon unless you're very brave
We had a bad experience. At 500m our pilot laughingly announced that we had a small problem. Pointing inside the balloon he told us to look up at the hole that had appeared in the silk. We didn't think it was so funny and spent the 30 minutes it took for us to land in palpations of worry. Added to this terror was my crippling fear of heights: I should never have got into that basket…
Other friends tell of a white-knuckle ride that involved crash landing in the trees on the side of a steep karst.
Although everyone in Yangshuo does their best to convince you that the balloon pilots are highly experienced, that it's not dangerous and that there have never been any accidents don't believe them. Hot air ballooning is by far and away the most expensive activity you can do in Yangshuo (¥700 - ¥900 per person for 70 minutes) and the local operators want your business.
TIP 8: Check out Fuli
This small town is home to families of fan makers. For centuries Fuli's inhabitants have painted fans and scrolls depicting traditional scenes. They used to make fans for the queen of one of the Chinese dynasties.
If you want to buy scrolls or fans whilst you're in Yangshuo it's worth hiring a car and visiting Fuli as they're about a third of the price and of a much higher quality than the ones selling in Yangshuo's markets. Expect to pay about ¥200 for a big silk fan.
TIP 9: If you're going for the weekend forget about Guilin
The boat trip down the Li River from Guilin to Yangshuo takes about six hours and you have to pack onto a big cruiser. If you're only visiting for the weekend it makes far more sense to arrange for a car to pick you up from Guilin airport and drive you straight to Yangshuo that night. The stretches of river around Yangshuo are quieter and you can travel them on a traditional bamboo raft away from hordes of snap-happy tourists.
Guilin is also a city with 1.32 million inhabitants – it's not the quaint town some brochures depict. If you're in search of peace and quiet ditch the city and head straight for Yangshuo. Hotels can organise a car from the airport (¥380 one way, travel time 2 hours) as can Lilly.
TIP 10: Don't go in a guided group to the light show
It's not as complicated as people have you believe. If your hotel or guide organizes the tickets for you then arrange a driver and go on your own. You'll save being herded about like cattle and will be able to escape the crowds and mayhem much more quickly. Tickets to the light show cost ¥180 per person.
All photos © Emma Torry / Bryony Greenwell
Doesn't this shot by solea20 make you want to pack your bags straight away and jump on the next plane to Morocco?
I'm dying to know what's behind those doors. When I was on a train from Tangiers to Fez in 2001 a teacher told me that all doors in Morocco - whether they lead to a riad or a ruin - look the same. This is because Islamic culture frowns on the showing off of wealth.
So, in Marrakesh the most stunning palaces are hidden behind unassuming doors. I wonder what lies behind these.