By Rachel Turner

Groggy with sleep, I pulled back the mosquito net from around my bed and headed to the bathroom for a shower. With my hand on the tap, I looked up at the ceiling. A scream caught in my throat as I grabbed a towel and rushed out of the wooden chalet into the early morning sun. I bounded down the stairs and headed toward the front desk to ask someone to remove the wine bottle-sized gecko from my bathroom. Before I made it though I was greeted by another lizard; this one as big as a toddler.

When I landed on Malaysia's Perhentian Kecil ("Small Perhentian"), I was stunned. I didn't believe that a place like this still existed. I thought finding such a sweet slice of paradise would require a mid-Pacific shipwreck. But there I was, a mere 19 kilometres from mainland Malaysia, toe deep in island clichés. The clear turquoise water quietly slurped at white beaches of sugar-fine sand. Tiny wooden chalets stood alert at the jungle's edge, ready for lodgers. Lush green flora blanketed the soaring cliffs. Every sunset was postcard perfect, every day bright and hot. Save for my abnormally large lizard neighbours, the place was straight out of a fantasy.

Given that the island I was staying on was little more than sand and jungle, being entertained indoors was out of the question. I couldn't wait to dive into the warm, clear water. Dive shops are littered all along Long Beach (the more populous of Kecil’s two beaches). They offer a variety of courses for beginners, as well as a ton of fun dives. Divers can swim through the Temple of the Sea, check out the coral garden at De Lagoon, or explore the sunken Sugar Ship Wreck. I was told that the water surrounding the island is home to barracudas, sea turtles, triggerfish, unicornfish, groupers, and the list goes on and on.

I'm more adept at skimming the surface and for RM 40 (US$11.50 / £6.50) I joined an all-day snorkelling tour. Bright and early, I boarded a boat with only three others. Our first stop was a coral garden where curious fish swam around me, brave ones nipping at my fingertips. Over the course of the afternoon we stopped at Shark Point, home to black tipped reef sharks, swam with sea turtles near Perhentian Besut, and stopped for lunch in a quaint fishing village. Before heading back to home base, we made a final stop on a deserted beach to soak up the sun.

My days spent in the Perhentians involved a lot of rest and relaxation. I swam, snorkelled, and strolled through the jungle. I popped down to the Bubu Long Beach Resort for a massage in a beachside cabana. I sipped fruity cocktails while watching the technicolour sunset. The island was without a serious party vibe. Pounding all-night discos were replaced with driftwood tables on the sand, lively conversation, and a few beers amongst new friends.

On Perhentian Kecil, most hotels and restaurants are scattered along Long Beach and Coral Bay, on the opposite site of the island. Long Beach, the livelier of the two, was where the majority of backpackers congregated. I checked out a few guesthouses and settled on the Panorama Chalets (http://malaysia-panorama.com), smack in the middle of the beach. For RM 100 (US$29 / £16), I secured a double room complete with air con and hot water... when the electricity was on (be sure to ask about electricity hours before checking into your hotel. Most places do not have 24-hour electricity). Movies are shown every night, and many room rates include free dinner from a fully-stocked restaurant.

Clean, clear air, peaceful solitude, and a pace just above a standstill drew me to Malaysia's Perhentian Islands. Forgoing big-city conveniences like Internet cafes and roads made me not want to leave. While there, bright white sand, lush jungle, polychromatic coral, and a few abnormally large lizards surrounded me. By the time I left, I truly felt like I had got away from it all.

TRAVELLER'S CHECK

Getting There: If you are starting your journey from Kuala Lumpur, catch an Air Asia flight to Kota Bharu (www.airasia.com). From the airport, catch a taxi or bus to the ferry terminal in Kuala Besut. A taxi with air-con will cost around RM 70. From there, hop on a speed boat for a 45-minute ride to Perhentian Kecil. Boat tickets cost RM 60 each way, plus pay the extra RM 2 fee to be dropped off at Long Beach instead of at the jetty. A cheaper, slower ferry is also available.

Where to Stay: Panorama Chalet is located in the centre of Long Beach. Double rooms with air conditioning and attached bathroom cost RM 100. Opt for shared bath and fan-cooled rooms to cut down on costs. Visit their website for more information: http://malaysia-panorama.com. If you choose to stay on the opposite side of the island at Coral Bay, check out the Senja Bay Resort. Here a fan room will set you back RM 100. The views from this hotel are stunning, and the staff is friendly. Holiday packages and other rates can be found at www.senjabay.com

Where to Eat: Most restaurants on Kecil are attached to hotels. The Panorama Chalet restaurant serves up local Malay food as well as western favourites. For a meal that's a little more up-market, check out the menu at Bubu Long Beach Resort.