By Christina Newberry

If you want to take advantage of the cheap charter flights to Cancun, but the mega-resorts of the Cancun strip fit neither your budget nor your travel style, Isla Mujeres may be the answer to your travel prayers.

Isla Mujeres is a small island a short ferry ride from Cancun. But it's worlds away from the all-inclusive resort glitz that has taken over the Cancun strip. A trip to Isla really feels like a trip to Mexico, and there's a magic to the island that's difficult to put into words. It's the reason why almost every traveller you meet on the island will tell you they've come back there time and time again, and why my recent visit – my first – will certainly not by my last.

Even before you hit the beach on Isla, you'll be dazzled by the incredible turquoise blue waters. They are literally breathtaking, and you'll never get used to how blue and clear they are, even by the end of your trip.

Where to stay on Isla Mujeres:

Isla Mujeres has an incredible hostel. There are many reasonably-priced hotels and private apartments on the island, but it would be hard to find one that rivals the value of the PocNa hostel, where dorm beds are available from 90 pesos (10 pesos = about $1), and private rooms from 240 pesos. For an even cheaper stay, camping spots are available for 60 pesos. The rate includes linens, towels, and even toast and coffee for breakfast.

The amazing secret at this hostel is private rooms 3 and 6, each of which has a small balcony overlooking the ocean. For 240 pesos, it's an unbelievable deal.

The hostel is clean and well-run, with a central courtyard full of tables and hammocks, plus sand going right down to the beach.

Check out the hostel's web site at www.pocna.com.

What to do on Isla Mujeres:

Isla Mujeres is known for its amazing beaches.

Playa Norte (North Beach) is easy walking distance from the hostel. It's a beautiful, peaceful beach, with white sand and crystal-blue waters. It's never too crowded, and there are lots of palm trees if you want to get a little bit of shade. There are 3 beach bars with swings and hammocks that are a great place to get a quick snack or a great piña colada. Happy hour starts at 1pm, when you can get two beers for 40 pesos, or two mixed drinks for 50.

There are beach chairs and umbrellas available for rent from the beachfront hotels, but the sand is soft, so bring your towel and you won't miss having a chair. For a last-day indulgence, try renting one of the beach beds with billowing curtains for 100 pesos for the day.

If you're looking for a bit more action at the beach, check out Northwest beach. It's also within walking distance of the hostel, though not quite as close as North Beach. It's got volleyball nets where pickup games seem common, and the beach bars pump out music much louder than on North Beach.

For a day away from the beach, rent a moped (250 pesos) or a golf cart (450 pesos) and drive to the Southern tip of the island. There's a small Mayan ruin, and beautiful cliffs where you can really see how amazing the water is. Nearby there's a turtle hatchery, as well as Garrafón Reef Park. At Garrafón you can swim with the dolphins or ride a zip line over the water, but the prices are aimed at Cancun tourists, so a day a Garrafón costs more than a week at the hostel. Still, it's worth driving by to take a look at the zipline and, again, the incredible water.

Drive back along the Caribbean side of the island for more amazing views.

Where to Eat on Isla Mujeres:

The main few streets of Isla Mujeres form a bustling little town, and at night it turns into a network of sidewalk cafés closed to all traffic. Street performers juggle or play music, and there is just a magical feeling in the air.

Take a walk through the town and you're sure to find something to suit your taste, no matter what your taste may be. I'm vegetarian, and had no problem eating well on Isla.

The best place on the Island for breakfast or lunch is Elements of the Island. It's a café with apartments up top and yoga sessions on the roof. Their food isn't cheap by Mexican standards, but it's all organic and totally delicious. Their homemade jam will blow your mind. A full breakfast including coffee and fresh orange juice runs at about 75 pesos.

For dinner, the best place in town – especially if you're vegetarian – is Comono. It's a Mediterranean restaurant run by an Israeli couple, and the food is out of this world. If you're on a tight budget, get the Mediterranean platter. For only 150 pesos, it's a full meal for two people, and beer is only 30 pesos a pop.

While I was in Isla, Comono featured the live music of Jesus Campuzano. If this amazing musician isn't still playing at Comono, you must ask around and track him down. With nothing more than a keyboard and a loop sampler, he makes incredible music that literally has people dancing in the streets. The one souvenir of Isla I brought home was a copy of his CD, and it's in high rotation on the iPod.

If you're watching every penny, have a few meals at the hostel. You can top up your breakfast toast and jam with an omelet for only 15 pesos, and they offer dinner specials each night for about 65 pesos, which includes one drink.

Nightlife on Isla Mujeres:

For the budget traveller, nightlife takes place at the hostel. The main restaurant/bar is open until 11pm, when the party moves to the beach bar. Drinks at either spot are 40 pesos for two cocktails, or 20 pesos for a beer. The beach bar features a DJ most nights, and live music on Sundays. There's even a wooden dance floor built into the sand.

Getting to Isla Mujeres:

Isla's an inexpensive and easy trip from Cancun airport, as long as you take the right transportation.

When you arrive in Cancun, head to the ADO bus stop. Purchase a ticket to the "Centro" bus station (35 pesos). The bus is comfortable, safe, and air conditioned, so don't be tempted by the more expensive cabs.

The bus station is about 25 minutes away form the airport. If you've arrived late, you may want to stay overnight in Cancun before continuing to the ferry. If so, the Hostel Meson de Tulum is walking distance from the bus station. It's nothing fancy, but with dorm beds from 100 pesos, or a private room for 300 pesos, it's a clean and safe place to spend the night. Booking is available through hostelworld.com.

To get to the ferry from either the bus station or the hostel, flag one of the many cabs in the area. The trip to the ferry should cost 40 – 60 pesos. Make sure the cab driver takes you to Puerto Juarez, where you get the ferry to Isla Mujeres for 70 pesos round trip.

After a 20-minute ferry ride (our trip featured live musicians on the upper outdoor deck), you'll be on Isla. The hostel is easy walking distance, even with a suitcase or pack. Ask directions to the PocNa Hostel, or to North Beach, which will get you headed in the right direction. To get back to Cancun, do the entire trip in reverse.

Repeat:

Once you've been to Isla, you'll return to Isla. I talked to one American who had been coming to the island for 15 years, and a couple of Canadians who had made it their regular travel destination for about 10 years. Almost everyone I spoke with was on at least their third trip there.

It really is a magical place, and you won't want to leave – at least not forever. So be prepared, if you go to Isla Muejeres, you may have a new travel destination for life.

Photo Credits: Photos are ©Christina Newberry unless specified below.

Isla Mujeres Palm & Coconuts by mikemcholm; poc-na by dolanh; Isla Mujeres Pier II by mikemcholm. Images via Flickr (Creative Commons).