By Christina Newberry

The British Columbia town of Harrison Hot Springs (so named because of its natural hot spring pools) has an unexpected draw each autumn and winter. The bald eagle, that iconic symbol of America, is a major presence in this Canadian village—just an hour and a half drive from the major metropolis of Vancouver. In this lakeside town, eagles far outnumber the 800 or so permanent human residents when they come to feast on spawning salmon in the Harrison and Fraser Rivers.

In November of each year, the Fraser Valley Bald Eagle Festival celebrates the arrival of the eagles—and the salmon—with loads of free events and an eagle count. This year’s count topped 2,600 eagles along just three kilometers of the Harrison River.

That number may sound staggering—that’s close to a thousand eagles per kilometer of river, after all—but once you’re on the river, you believe it, and you’re blown away. At certain points along the river, each tree is spotted with close to 100 birds, and the gravel shorelines where salmon are most abundant are literal feasting grounds, with a seemingly impossible number of eagles congregating to gorge on the abundant fish.

The eagles can be spotted from land, if you head to the right spot. Sandpiper Golf Course is one such option for land-locked eagle viewing. Lunch at the course-side River Edge Restaurant offers the chance to spot a few eagles right from your dining table, with a warming fire in the fireplace to boot.

But for the real spectacle, you’ve got to head out on the water. Several local companies offer eagle-watching boat tours leaving from the dock directly in front of the iconic Harrison Hot Springs Resort and Spa. Harrison Eco Tours has an office right in the hotel and offers packages for hotel guests. Just a couple of hours on the river in a covered, heated boat allow you to spot hundreds of eagles, with guides knowing just when to cut the boat’s motor so you can get close to the eagles without disturbing them.

Even with the heaters, after all that time on a chilly river, there’s nothing better than a soak in the town’s famed mineral hot springs, which some claim have healing powers. Resort guests have access to five indoor and outdoor natural mineral hot springs pools. For those on a tighter budget, the town has a public hot spring pool that’s less romantic but just as warm.

If you go
Harrison Hot Springs is located less than two hours’ drive east of Vancouver (three hours from Seattle) in British Columbia’s Fraser Valley. For those wishing a more direct route, several major carriers fly to Abbotsford, about 45 minutes’ drive from Harrison Hot Springs. Eagles flock to the area starting in November, with peak viewing time in January and February.

Harrison Hot Springs Resort offers packages including two nights’ accommodation, access to the resort’s hot springs pools, full buffet breakfast, and a two-hour eagle watching tour with Harrison Eco Tours starting at $249.50 per person based on double occupancy. For each package sold a donation is made to an organization that supports wildlife programs.

Rowena’s Inn at Sandpiper Golf Course offer packages including one night’s accommodation, $50 credit for River’s Edge Restaurant, and access to the resort’s riverside designated eagle viewing area from $175 per room. They can also arrange boat tours.

For non-resort guests, the Harrison Hot Springs public pool offers access to an indoor hot spring pool for $9 per adult/$7 for children and seniors, and Harrison Eco Tours offers two-hour eagle-watching tours for $99 per person.

By Christina Newberry

On Isla Mujeres, a small island off the coast of Cancun, there are a surprising number of top-notch restaurants. Foodies can dig into homemade pasta, impossibly fresh ceviche, inventive fusion fare, and, of course, mouth-watering Mexican standards cooked with love by grandmothers and church ladies, at taco stands and in the town square.

But the best dinner in town is not in a restaurant as such. Instead, it’s hidden away in a quiet courtyard, where Lolo Lorena, a Belgian national who’s lived on the island so long she’s considered a local, hosts guests for sumptuous five-course feasts at a shared table in the supper-club style that’s sweeping major cities.

On this tiny island, you don’t have to know a secret handshake or have an “in” to get a seat at this most coveted table – though you do have to book in advance (by November, Valentine’s Day is sold out). You just have to give Lolo a call.

What makes Lolo’s table special is the feeling that one is not a customer, but a guest. Chatting through a three-hour meal with up to 15 strangers in Lolo’s courtyard decked with fairy lights, exotic plants, and treasured items from her travels around the world is a way to make quick island friends.

The night I find myself at Lolo’s, there are 13 of us at the table: six Canadians, five Americans, and two Brits. What we all have in common is a love of Isla Mujeres, and a sense of excitement about the food we are about to consume. With two options for each course, no one is disappointed. Lolo has even created a special menu for me, a vegetarian. After weeks of Mexican rice and black beans, I am treated to rich flavors in a custom green bean, tomato, potato appetizer, three exquisite gnocchi (served with a tiny fork), tart and spicy Thai salad, and vegetable terrine, while others feast on lobster tail and crab legs, or decadent moussaka. For dessert, an embarrassment of riches: sorbet, candied nuts, an apple tart, meringue with cream and, for each of us, a delicate lollipop, made of a hard-candy-coated fresh grape.

As each course emerges from Lolo’s tiny kitchen, the conversation stops for a moment as the group oohs and ahhs in unison. Then, as each person takes a first tiny bite, the looks of shared pleasure cross the table, everyone smiles, and we dig in.

If you go: Lolo Lorena’s courtyard supper table is located on Rueda Medina on Isla Mujeres. It can be a bit tricky to find from the downtown tourist area, but you’ll need to contact Lolo to book your reservation, and she can give you detailed directions. You can reach Lolo by e-mail at lololorena@hotmail.com, and find her online at lololorena.com. Five-course meals are $30USD-$40USD per person (yes, really, for five courses!). To-die-for mojitos are $5, and you can bring your own wine.