In Saturday's How to Spend It magazine award winning writer, Margaret Atwood, shares the ingredients for her perfect weekend in Toronto, Canada.
According to Atwood, winter visitors to Toronto should check out snow-tubing in Horseshoe Valley, winter birding, and forest walks in places such as Sir Winston Churchill Park and Leslie Hill Split.

For lunch in Toronto you should check out Live (264 Dupont St), which does great vegetarian food; Cantine (13 Avenue Rd), for a superlative bowl of soup; or Le Sélect (432 Wellington St West), a good weekend lunch spot serving up French bistro food (pictured below).

If you want some good dinner options you should look into Take Sushi (22 Front St West), for good Japanese and 93 Harbord (93 Harbord St) for Middle Eastern cuisine - both come highly recommended by Atwood.
L'Espresso Bar Mercurio (321 Bloor St West) is a favourite coffee place, right across the street from Toronto's Shoe Museum.
If you're up for a swanky night out in Toronto, Atwood suggests the new opera house (735 Queen St East), "the auditorium rests like an egg inside the building on huge, rubber elephant legs. The sound is excellent."
- Live: 264 Dupont St (North East corner of Dupont and Spadina), Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5R 1V7; Tel: +1 416 515 2002; Web: www.livefoodbar.com.
- Cantine: 13 Avenue Rd, Toronto, Ontario M5R 2H6; Tel: +1 416 923 4822; Web: www.cantine.ca.
- Le Sélect: 432 Wellington Street West, Toronto M5V 1E3; Tel: +1 416 596 6405; Web: www.leselect.com.
- Take Sushi: 22 Front Street West, Toronto, ON M5J 1C4, Canada; Tel: +1 416 862 1891; Web: www.takesushi.ca.
- 93 Harbord: 93 Harbord Street, Toronto, Ontario, M5S 1G4; Tel: +1 416 922 5914; Web: www.93harbord.com.
- L'Espresso Bar Mercurio: 321 Bloor Street West, Toronto, ON, M5S 1S5 (southeast corner of Bloor & St. George); Tel: +1 416 585 2233; Web: www.lespressobarmercurio.com.
- The Opera House, Toronto: 735 Queen Street East, Toronto, ON M4M 1H1, Canada; Tel: +1 416 466 0313; Web: www.theoperahousetoronto.com.
To read the full article visit www.howtospendit.com.
Photo Credits: Snow tubing by DrewOtt; Le Sélect via www.leselect.com.
Ah, Venice. The city which has enough romance and magic to entrance even the most hard bitten of tourists, travel fiends who've been around the block more times than you've had hot dinners. But while mind-blowing beauty is on every calle corner, tourists whom are entranced by anything served up at the city's notoriously bad and pricey restaurants are rarer than a cheerful gondolier.

Then Il Ridotto opened on the lively Campo SS. Filippo, and Venice-bound gourmets now have a dining destination that is as much an attraction as the churches and grand squares. If you're organised enough to book way ahead at this intimate and stylish restaurant run by Gianni Bonaccorsi (there are just 6 tables), you'll enjoy Venetian art on your plate.

The chef personally welcomes you to his pared-back refuge from the crowds and visits each table to explain the menu which changes daily, depending on what he found at the city's Rialto Market. After an amuse-bouche of a perfectly plump prawn on a bed of truffled mashed potato, the first course arrived without any fuss, and when we tasted the fabulously rich homemade tagliolini with a surprisingly light Fassone beef ragu, the fireworks began. The secondo (which incidentally is the same size as the first so pace yourself) was squid stuffed with scampi and prawns in a clam sauce and was as colourful as a Venetian carnival mask.
For dessert, the deliciousness of the chocolate tart with its oozing soft centre kept us digging in, even though we were as stuffed as the squid, and after that it was a pleasure to sit back at our table by the window and sit, Murano glass in hand, and have an unobstructed view of the kitchen at work. It was just Bonaccorsi and a younger apprentice, and there was no Gordon Ramsey-style theatrics, but instead a calmness and creativity at play that set the tone for the rest of the restaurant. Our bill for two was €100 with half a bottle of wine: for Venice and for this quality, that was a bargain.
Il Ridotto
4509 Castello, Campo SS Fillippo, Venice, Italy 30122; Tel: +39 041 520 8280; Web: www.ilridotto.com.
Photo Credits: Venetian Gondolas via iStockPhoto.com, Il Ridotto via www.ilridotto.com.
"This is the Roman way, don't worry," Italian chef Daniela del Balzo said cheerfully, as she reversed her Fiat 500 the wrong way up a one-way street. Not that she could really see out of the window anyway, as the boot was full of delicious goodies that we were taking back to her stylish apartment in a ritzy area on Aventine Hill near the Colosseum to cook for lunch.

Daniela's irreverent charm made the time we spent with her, learning to buy and cook as real Romans do, the highlight of a recent trip to Rome. We'd just spent an hour in Testaccio Market, where generations of Italians have gone to shop since it opened in the 1800s, sniffing, tasting and elbowing the weak out the way to get the freshest and most perfect food possible.
The neighbourhood is a working-class stronghold known as Rome's stomach – it is here that you would have once found the city's slaughterhouses, but they've been closed down and transformed into chi-chi art galleries and apartments as the area undergoes galloping gentrification. Daniela explained that she'd recently taken celebrity chef Gary Rhodes around the market and he'd been poking and prodding the produce just like any good Roman housewife.

The market's 50 or so stalls include the freshest glistening fish on display at a fishmongers that proudly displays a picture of Italian legend Marcello Mastroianni, the stall holder's cousin; picture-perfect fruit and vegetables such as shredded chicory and ready-trimmed artichokes that looked as though they were dug out the ground that morning; plus one of the best selections of cheese, ham and meat that you will find in all of Italy.
After lugging our bags into Daniela's apartment, over espresso and biscotti and with Italian opera on in the background, she talked us through the menu which included both local and Neapolitan dishes from her hometown.

While Daniela poured us a generous glass of prosecco, we made some snacks to get us in the mood: bruschetta and prunes wrapped in bacon, a rich courgette frittata and slices of Bresaola topped with ricotta cheese and arugula. Daniela encouraged us to taste, seasoning and pouring on extra-virgin olive oil at will, which had been made from groves at her family's holiday home in Abruzzo. Then we started on our pasta course of fettuccine with artichokes and pasta with Broccolo Romano. The thought of the last dish did make my heart sink as the vegetable was described as a combination of broccoli and cauliflower which aren't exactly must-orders for me, but once it was braised with anchovies and made creamy with pecorino, I could have licked the bowl.
Our main course was Involtini alla Romana, strips of veal rolled up with prosciutto and celery and braised in a white wine and marjoram sauce. Oh, and tiramisu to finish, followed by more coffee, biscotti and chocolates. Or at least I think that's where we finished, as Daniela generously topped up our wine whenever we weren't looking.
After we bade farewell, with heartfelt kisses and thanks and promises to come again, we walked - or rather staggered - down Aventine Hill armed with our recipes, feeling like we didn't need to eat again until we next returned to Rome.
Testaccio Market is open everyday bar Sunday from 6.30am – 2pm.
For more details of Daniela's Cookery School contact Context Travel (www.contexttravel.com).
Sentosa Island, Singapore: A tranquil island stay, without the travelling
Posted by Emma Torry on February 23, 2010 at 10:11 AM
Sometimes airports can be such a bore. What with crazy queues at security and cramped seats and cardboard food on the plane, it's no wonder that "staycations" are one of the travel industry's top trends.

For Singaporeans, the popular island resort of Sentosa, just a quarter of a mile from the mainland, is a very popular staycation destination, though up to now the attractions have been more family-friendly than fabulous. And while the newly-opened Resorts World is attracting all the publicity, the ultra-exclusive hotel Capella Singapore is where travellers in the know are heading, armed with Gucci bikinis and the latest copy of Vogue.

From the moment you glide up the meandering private driveway to the two colonial buildings that serve as the hotel's reception area, the hustle and bustle of Singapore feels a very, very long way away. Star architect Lord Norman Foster restored the dazzlingly white bungalows, and also added a stylish, undulating space behind them which houses the bulk of the hotel's fabulous accommodation and two restaurants. This earthy red building mirrors the contours of Sentosa's terrain, and guests enjoy spectacular views out to the South China Sea.
And it's not just the views that are dazzling: the Capella's spacious Modern Asian style rooms come with a state-of-the-art touch screen which controls every aspect from air-con to the blinds, iPod docking stations with Bose speakers, a wall-hung plasma TV, a Nespresso machine coffee machine, a private balcony and a open plan bathroom with a deep stone bath.

Staff are far too well mannered and discreet to name their celebrity guests, but when we were there, it looked as though a couple of local A-list celebrities, armed with huge sunglasses to keep out prying eyes, were lounging by one of the cascading pools. In fact, Capella Singapore, is the kind of place that you can picture someone glam like Beyonce sashaying past one of the resident peacocks that freely wander around the tropical gardens. Who needs Bali when an island paradise is just a ten minutes' drive away?
Capella Singapore
1 The Knolls, Sentosa Island, Singapore
Tel: +65 6377 8888
Web: www.capellasingapore.com
Photo Credits: Siloso Beach on Sentosa Island by mrreynolds; Capella Singapore courtesy of Capella Hotels.
If you're planning a trip through the States read this guide to American accents before you head off on your travels. It's an amusing, astute look at the weird and wonderful differences in dialect and pronunciation across the USA.
I'm a Texan first, then an American, then a citizen of the world. Without fail, every time I encounter someone on the road who has an inkling of knowledge of American accents, I hear:
"So you're from Texas? You don't really have an accent, do you?"
...a fact for which I praise my upbringing each and every day. Still, that doesn't stop me from occasionally throwing on a twang, and spitting out:
"Yessum, I surely do. Yee-haw! Giddy-up there! Have ya'll seen my horse?"
I guarantee I'm not the only city-raised respectable Southerner who's felt compelled to feign, wishing for a moment we had more evidence of our heritage... and perhaps feeling a little embarrassed we have to make the effort. After all, every state is the proud owner of its own distinctive twang, its essence representing the character of the state's history and its people.
TEXAS

Screw Alaska. We're the biggest of the lower 48, so we deserve to be first. The Lone Star State. The Texas accent can be mistaken for the southern drawl of neighboring states, but it tends to be a little more focused; when Michael Caine was studying to speak like a Texan in the movie Secondhand Lions, he probably got the best explanation I've ever heard:
'...[British] English is like all-soldiers-standing-to-attention.' He said, 'In Texan, everybody leans on each other, goes like that. The words just lean on each other and they go through jus' like that. It's all slow and you don't have to worry about nothin'.'
I said, 'Texans do talk slow, don't they John?'
He said, 'They sure do, Michael.'
I said, 'Why's that?'
He said, 'Well, I reckon it's 'cause we're all very big and carry a lot of guns - people just listen.'
Source: YouTube
THE SOUTH
Like Texan (or I guess the rest would say "Texas is like us"), the southern accent is drawn out, tends to drop the end of words, and is a close relative of the English accent. I hesitate to lump the masses together, as each state is quite distinct, but for the most part Florida, Alabama, Georgia, Mississippi, Louisiana, Kentucky, Tennessee, South Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia (the Virginias are pretty unique in themselves), North Carolina, and Arkansas natives bear the burden of this form of speech.
In the south...
- "Liar" rhymes with "fire"
- Be on the lookout for expressions that would make Shakespeare turn in his grave: "You're dumber'n a sack'a potatoes."
- "Ya'll" (= you all) is a dead giveaway
- "Get 'er done!" will always produce a reaction (thanks to Larry the Cable Guy)
BOSTON
Boston and indeed most of eastern Massachusetts has a wicked retarded accent, best used for cheering for the Red Sox, doing kegstands, and grabbing something sweet from the packie (liquor store). In any case, try changing all the short "a"'s to "ee"'s (e.g. Mary = Meery); "o"'s to soft "a"'s (e.g. Boston = Baston) and "r"'s at the end or in the middle of words to "h"'s (Nomar Garciaparra = Nomah).

The Wicked Good Guide to Boston English
MIDWESTERN
The midwestern accent is probably the most neutral of accents in all forms of English. Head over to Nebraska, Kansas, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, and Pennsylvania and enjoy the flat-sounding voices. I believe this is why there are so many telemarketing firms and phone operators in Nebraska; companies want to be understood. Without any real inflection or flare, midwestern speakers may as well be the hardest to pin down by language enthusiasts.
NEW YORK
Ahh... yes. Your first thought is probably the deep NY accents you hear Italians using in mob movies; in fact, whenever I try to feign this one, I start with: "Hey Tony, go whack this guy, will ya?"

Given the geographically small area of New York City, it's amazing we find such varieties of speech. From all five Boroughs - Queens, Staten Island, Manhattan, Brooklyn, Bronx - to Long Island and northern New Jersey, many visitors to the big apple (I don't care if they officially changed the name) claim to be able to hear differences between these regions. In fact, the classic New York accent is the result of European immigrants, and now lies mostly in the mouths of the working class; talk to a cabbie from JFK airport into Manhattan and you'll see what I mean.
The Story of the New York Accent.
THE DAKOTAS
Pop the movie Fargo into your DVD player and discover... well, an exaggerated version of a Minnesota accent. For North and South Dakota, there are strong Scandinavian and German roots influencing their inflections, with a result not far off from the neutral dialects of the midwestern states. Double "o" sounds are indistinguishable from their use in "root" (i.e. book = b-oo-uk), and soft "a"'s are replaced by soft "o"'s (father = f-oh-ther). In North Dakota, the Canadian influence is also unmistakable.
CALIFORNIA

A lot of the latest American slang spreads from New York City and Los Angeles, tending to produce a speech faster and much harder to pin down. In general, the "A"'s are flatter, the "R"'s are hard, and the accent is more liked a toned down version of the 1980s Valley Girl. In all likelihood, you'd be more likely to recognize someone as Californian based on their cultural expressions and knowledge of Spanish rather than any specific accent.
Photo Credits: Texas by atmtx; Boston by JMaz Photo; New York by diebmx; California by casch52 gone for a short time.
A 21st Century Poseidon Adventure: Virgin Introduces New ‘Underwater Plane’
Posted by Emma Torry on February 03, 2010 at 10:35 AM
If you've always dreamt of diving down to 20,000 leagues under the sea, then news of Virgin's new "underwater plane" will be music to your ears, though perhaps not to your wallet.

The Necker Nymph, Virgin Limited Edition's DeepFlight three-person aero-submarine (what a mouthful...), is an open cockpit winged sub that will take tourists down to the ocean floor on an underwater flight to explore shipwrecks, swim side-by-side with dolphins, or cruise along with whales. Needless to say, it is the first of its kind on the market.
Capable of diving down to depths of 36,000 feet Necker Nymph has the flexibility to glide peacefully over reefs or up the excitement ante with 360 degree turns. The open cockpits afford near ideal 360 degree viewing for passengers, creating a uniquely open experience. Dives can last up to two hours.
Like all DeepFlight subs, Necker Nymph has near-zero environmental impact: it won't land on precious reefs and has low light and noise emissions to keep ocean ecosystems from being disturbed.
Necker Nymph is available either when chartering Necker Belle, Virgin's luxury 105 foot catamaran (weekly charter costs U.S. $88,000), or when staying on Richard Branson's Necker Island. When taking Necker Belle for 7-nights' exclusive hire, the sub is available at an additional weekly rate of US$ 25,000.

Images via Virgin Limited Edition.
Walking in a Winter Wonderland: The Sapporo Snow Festival
Posted by Emma Torry on February 02, 2010 at 11:36 AM
Snow bunnies, this is one for you... Japan's 61st annual Sapporo Snow Festival kicks off this Friday 5th February and runs for a week. The festival attracts 2 million visitors every year and showcases snow statues and sculptures on a massive scale: 244 in total this year.

Teams from across the world head to Sapporo to take part in the snow and ice sculpture contest, which transforms the city into a glittering, icy spectacle of winter whimsy.
We recommend stopping into the Sapporo Snow Festival en route to a few days of skiing up in Niseko.
For more information about the festival visit www.snowfes.com.
Photo Credit: Sapporo Snow Festival by sachman75 via Flickr (Creative Commons).
I was flicking through a recent copy of Condé Nast Traveller and stumbled across their version of the 2010 travel hotlist (which you will have seen everywhere by now, no doubt). CN usually sort the wheat from the chaff though so I though this list was worth sharing.
They have broken the must-visit destinations for 2010 down into seasons, so starting with spring...
WHERE TO VISIT IN SPRING 2010
Beirut, Lebanon: Hoping to once again become the playground of the Middle East, Beirut is hot right now. Check into the newly opened Le Gray or the Four Seasons.
Amsterdam, The Netherlands: Super convenient for the Euro traveller, especially since the completion of a high-speed rail track from Brussels (that connects with the Eurostar), Amsterdam's the perfect destination for art lovers in early 2010. The city's main attractions this spring are the Pioneers of Modern Art exhibition at the Hermitage Amsterdam (from 6 March - 17 September 2010) and the reopening of the Stedelijk museum of modern and contemporary art.

Utah, USA: The new Aman resort, Amangiri, will be drawing the crowds to Utah this spring. Located out in the wilderness of Canyon Point, where the states of Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona meet, the area is home to one of the most dramatic landscapes in the USA. Added to this is the new law legalising alcohol throughout the State.
Morocco: La Mamounia hotel has been reopened in Marrakech and there are new Easyjet and Ryanair routes to Agadir, with flights to the hyped coastal town of Mirleft coming soon.
Istanbul, Turkey: Lauded as one of 2010's European Capitals of Culture, Istanbul is still a hot destination. Favourable rates of exchange only add to the attraction.
Rome, Italy: Visit Rome to check out the new MAXXI_National Museum of the XXI Century Arts, which exhibits 21st century art and architecture.
WHERE TO VISIT IN SUMMER 2010
South Africa: South Africa is going to be a serious hotspot come the World Cup kick off on June 11th. Savvy travellers should combine a trip to the World Cup with a beach break in Mozambique.
Shanghai, China: The Expo 2010 runs from May to October in Shanghai, and CN recommends staying at the legendary Peace Hotel, overlooking Shanghai's Huangpu River. For more Shanghai travel recommendations click here.
Solta, Croatia: The island of Solta has managed to stay off the beaten tourist track despite being just 30 minutes away from Split by ferry. This summer is the last before a planned revolving hotel and marina spoil Solta's tranquillity, so now is the time to go.

Papua New Guinea: Hot on the heals of the successful BBC series Land of the Volcano, Papua New Guinea can expect a rise in tourists this summer.
WHERE TO VISIT IN AUTUMN 2010
Dubai: For a bit of sunshine and a new fashion hotel openings; the first, The Armani Hotel Dubai, in the Burj Dubai Tower, followed by the Palazzo Versace in the Culture Village of Dubai Creek.
Nicaragua: Check out the surf and book into the country's first boutique hotel, the Contempo.

Uruguay: La Solana, on Portezuelo beach just west of Punta del Este, is the hippest boutique hotel opening in Uruguay this autumn. Also check out the new Estancia Vik to the north-east of José Ignacio.
Sri Lanka: Due in part to the recent stability in Sri Lanka, it is set to be a big destination later on this year. Home to a couple of stunning Aman resorts and the Reef beach villa in Wadduwa, travellers won't be hard pressed to find stylish hotel choices.
WHERE TO VISIT IN WINTER 2010
Colorado, USA: Ski heaven thanks to big changes for the 2010/11 season: the five star Nell Residences are opening in Snowmass, Aspen; a new Four Seasons is launching in Vail; and the Denver Ski Train, which takes ski bunnies to Winter Park, is set for a comeback.
Tasmania: Stay in the lap of luxury at the spa suites of the Saffire resort on Great Oyster Bay.

Antarctica: Travel in serious style on Le Boreal, "the newest and first all-balcony stateroom and suite vessel in Antarctica", chartered by Abercrombie & Kent.
Photo Credits: Amsterdam by MorBCN; Nicaragua by vtoxic; Solta by bullro; Great Oyster Bay by Gary Hayes. All images via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Iconic British handbag designer, Lulu Guinness, is being honoured at the Metropolitan hotel in London from 15th - 27th February with an afternoon tea inspired by her Autumn / Winter 2010 collection, "Kiss and Make Up".

Guests can look forward to lipstick cookies, make-up palette chocolate cake, and low-fat (fashionistas don't do fat afterall) cupcakes decorated with Lulu's famous lips and Pollyanna bags.
An even more delicious offer, for fashion-hungry travellers to London, is that everyone who has the "Lulu Tea" will receive 15% off all products in the Lulu Guinness Ellis Street store in SW1.
We like the look of this travel inspired canvas handbag (£225) as a super-chic hand baggage option.
The Lulu tea is available in the Met Bar from Monday 15th - Saturday 17th February 2010, from 3pm - 6pm. Price £25 per person. Reservations must be made in advance on +44 (0)20 7447 4757.
Metropolitan Hotel, London: Old Park Lane, London, W1K 1LB; Tel: +44 (0)20 7447 1000.
Lulu Guinness, Ellis Street: 3 Ellis Street, London, SW1X 9AL; Tel: +44 (0)207 823 4828.
Suits you Sir: Where to get the best bespoke suits, shirts and shoes in Hong Kong
Posted by Emma Torry on January 07, 2010 at 07:11 PM
Having bespoke suits, shirts and shoes tailor made in Hong Kong is a sartorial rite-of-passage for many business travellers to "The Fragrant Harbour". It's quick, convenient, and your new clothes can be shipped back to you with a minimum of fuss.
The trouble is that it can be exhausting looking for the best quality, fair prices and good service in a city as teeming with tailors as Hong Kong. Luckily for you business travellers we've done the legwork so you can use your precious down time for more client schmoozing or to sample the delights of Lan Kwai Fong.
GET SUITED
The British Textile Company: Danny Tam's business has been running since the 1960s when it began in Shanghai. His hand crafted suits, made from English and Italian fabrics, take a week to complete and require two to three fittings. Prices for a tailor made suit range from approximately HKD 4,000 to HKD 8,000 depending on the quality of the fabric. In order to get the perfect fit, Danny recommends coming with a good idea of the style you want so that you can give them the best instructions possible. Orders can be placed from overseas and door-to-door delivery generally costs 10% of the total order. You can also have shirts, coats, waistcoats, dinner jackets, morning suits and ladies' clothes made here. The British Textile Company, Shop G17, Ground Floor, Holiday Inn Shopping Mall, 50 Nathan Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 2730 3464; Fax: +852 2735 4999; Email: tkw1122@netvigator.com.
A-Man Hing Cheong Co. Ltd: This tailors has been up and running since 1898 and its success is tenable by merit of its super smart location in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Suits take five to seven days to make and require three fittings. The fabrics on offer are of the highest quality, imported from the UK or Italy. Prices for a bespoke suit range from HKD 8,000 to HKD 20,000, so excellence doesn't come cheap (they have to pay the rent somehow…). The good news is that once they have your measurements on file you can call or email in your orders and they will ship the finished product anywhere in the world to you for free.A-Man Hing Cheong Co., Ltd, Unit M2 Mezz. Floor, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 2522 3336; Fax: +852 2523 4707; Email: amhcltd@netvigator.com.
GET BOOTED
Mayer Shoe Co.: Quite literally follow in the footsteps of Henry Kissinger, local Tai-pans, and Hong Kong's former governors at this famous 46-year old shop. Also located in the glitzy Mandarin Oriental Hotel, the Mayer Shoe Co. specializes in bespoke ladies and gents shoes made from top notch European and American leather. The shoemakers can copy styles from a magazine picture, remake your favourite pair of banged up brogues, or you can choose from their collection of house styles. A pair of tailor made shoes takes between seven and ten days to make and costs from HKD 3,500. Mayer Shoe Co., M-3 Mandarin Oriental Hotel Arcades, 5 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 2524 3317; Fax: +852 2524 5513; Email: mayerhk@netvigator.com.

Kow Hoo Shoes: Kow tow to Kow How: beautiful, butter soft handmade shoes are the order of the day at this 82-year old company. The shoemaker is also an octogenarian, so it takes six to eight months for each pair to be ready; sadly, shoemaking by hand is a dying trade. Each customer has a wooden shoe last crafted to the exact shape of their feet, so once you have ordered from Kow Hoo once you can email or fax across any style you like to be made to your exact specifications. You can also choose send in your old shoes to be remade if you've lost a pair you love. The leathers come from Europe, and exotic skins can be sourced if the fancy takes you. Prices start from HKD 6,800 and international shipping costs about HKD 280.Kow Hoo Shoes, Shop 241, Prince's Building, 10 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2523 0489; Fax: +852 2877 1783; Email: kowhoo@hotmail.com.
GET SHIRTY
Best Shirt Maker Company: Tommy Lo has been doing his company's name proud since 1968, and his bespoke shirts have attracted Hollywood stars to the shop above Wellington Street. Fabrics at the Best Shirt Maker Company come from Japan, the UK and Italy – the finest being the Italian ones – and samples can be sent overseas. Prices start at HKD 400 for a tailor made shirt from Japanese cotton and go up to HKD 1,000+ for a bespoke Italian number. Allow one week for shirts to be made; if you live abroad you can email or call in your orders and Tommy will ship them.Best Shirt Maker Company, Flat C, 1/F, Fortuna Building, 63 – 69 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 2525 3562; Fax: (Call before sending) +852 2110 0835; Email: best_shirt_maker@hotmail.com.
If you have had any good experiences having suits and shirts tailored and shoes handmade for you in Hong Kong we'd love to hear from you. Please leave your tips and comments below.
Image Credits: Suit via iStockPhoto; Shoe Last by Artbandito
London seems to have gone Lebanese food crazy. Since the last time I was in the UK's capital all sorts of mezze and falafel places have cropped up, notably a new chain called LebanEats, which seems to have outlets everywhere.
If you're after the seriously good stuff though you should head straight to Comptoir Libanais on Wigmore Street. There are other branches across the city, but this is the most centrally located.

Queue up at the deli counter for takeaway wraps, mezze, salads, tagines and drinks, or grab a table and settle in. The mezze platter to share - with hommous, tabbouleh, baba ghanuj, falafel, spinach fatayer, pickles and pitta - is a bargain for two at £9.50. The wraps, especially the falafel and the super garlicky chicken taouk, are less wallet friendly at £4.50, but also delicious. Highly recommended is the fab halloumi salad, which comes with all the usual trimmings and costs £5.50. Apparently you have to try the prawn falafel (£3.50) too, although sadly I didn't have the room.
If you're in need of a pitstop post-Selfridges shopping spree, or you want cheap eats before catching a concert at the Wigmore Hall then Comptoir Libanais is a great place. You can bring your own wine too and they won't charge corkage.
Comptoir Libanais, 65 Wigmore Street, London W1U 1PZ; Tel: +44 (0)20 7935 1110. For details of other locations please visit lecomptoir.co.uk.
Image via Comptoir Libanais on Facebook.
Best Christmas Gifts for Business Travellers 2009
Posted by Emma Torry on November 25, 2009 at 12:07 AM
Business travellers may be a road-weary lot, but we think that this selection of Christmas goodies will fill them with holiday cheer; we hope they please the road warrior in your life!
Heavenly Travel Blanket


There's nothing worse than being uncomfortable when you're travelling long-distance or overnight to an important meeting – so avoid it. Indulge your favourite business traveller with the Heavenly Travel Blanket from Westin. We've all heard the hype about their duvets, pillows and bed linens, and now the "heavenly" experience has been packaged up and made road ready. Opened up, it's a full sized blanket – folded it's a compact travel pillow. Nifty huh?! Price USD 60 (ships internationally). Available online at www.westin.com/store.
Passport Cover
It's funny what a difference the little things can make. These leather passport covers from Smythson are ultra chic and luxurious, and will transform check-in from glum to glam. Choose from an array of styles and colours for traditionalists and fashionistas alike.
Price from £60 / USD 100. Available online at www.smythson.com.
Travel Journal
Encourage the business traveller in your life to record their journeys (and jot down the details of fab places to take you to later) in this super smart envelope wrap travel journal from Aspinal of London. It's got more than a whiff of the Victorian explorer about it, perfect for bringing some romance and a dash of the exotic into mundane business trips.
Price from £25 / USD 39. Available online at www.aspinaloflondon.com.
Flip Mino HD

If your road-warrior is more techie than traditional, the Flip Mino HD camcorder is the perfect gift to help them remember where they've been and what they've seen. It's also a great little device for recording up to 120 minutes of personal messages from exotic climes and emailing them over to friends and family. It is very easy to use, lightweight and small. Price from USD 229. Available online from Amazon.com.
Digital Luggage Scale
This is a great stocking filler or present from the dog for your business traveller. Brookstone has a portable digital luggage scale that you can use to weigh your bags and avoid any hassle or unforeseen costs at the airport. The scale can measure up to 75 lbs / 34 kg.
Price USD 29.95. Available from Amazon.com.
In-flight Travel Bag Get pampered at 30,000 feet with a gorgeous kit from skincare and fragrance guru, Jo Malone. Keep your skin in tip top condition so you look and feel great in those all important business meetings. Price £76. Available online at www.jomalone.co.uk.
Recorded Bedtime Stories
If you know someone who is on the road a lot more often than they would like, this could make a great gift if they have children or grandchildren. Cherished Voices is a company that allows business travellers to record bedtime stories, in their own voice, over the phone that are then burnt onto a CD and shipped to the child. A very special way to stay in touch.
Price from USD 30 – 50. Available online at www.cherishedvoices.com.
Wine Ratings Guide iPhone App Clients can be hard to please, so help out your favourite business traveller with this nifty iPhone app that helps to select the best bottle of wine on the menu. For the bargain price of USD 1.99 this application from Nirvino will turn anyone from clueless to connoisseur: 1 million wine ratings, a food pairings wizard, and a regional wine guide (so you can pick the best local tipple). Look like a genius, even if you're not. Price USD 1.99. Available online at www.nirvino.com or via the iTunes store.
Screaming Pillow Another delayed flight? A client who won't play ball? A deranged hotel receptionist? Let it ALL out on a screaming pillow. Business travel can be pretty stressful, so take a little piece of mobile therapy with you on the road. Simply place your face on the pillow and scream. Price USD 19.99 (+shipping and handling). Available online at screamingpillows.com.

Luxe City Guides: World Tour Box From LA to London, Beijing to Berlin – tour the world in style with 12 of the fab Luxe City Guides. This is one for business travellers who appreciate the finer things in life and don't want the slog of researching where to find them. Price USD 110. Available online at Amazon.com.
London is a well known shopping destination, and there's a lot more to the UK's capital than Oxford Street and Topshop... Hit London's markets and you'll head home with a suitcase full of original pieces plus a slice of real London life.
Here are three of our favourite London markets to add you your travel itinerary:
Columbia Road Flower Market, E2

Every Sunday Columbia Road comes into bloom with thousands of brightly coloured flowers and plants. Barrow boys call out for customers and savvy Londoners come out in force to stock up on bargain price flowers and foliage. You can get your hands on everything from a single stem to a 10 foot banana tree, and if you're not interested in buying flowers there are masses of photo opps.
Open on Sundays from 8am until 3pm(ish). Closest stations are Old Street and Bethnal Green.
Spitalfields Market, E1

Fashionistas and foodies will love Spitalfields. It's chock-a-block with 110 stalls selling clothes, crafts, antiques, arts and organic produce. Glass roofed and weather-proof, you should set aside a good few hours for treasure hunting here. Rest assured: there are plenty of cafes and restaurants where you can refuel.
If you've got the energy, Columbia Road and Spitalfields can be done together as they are within walking distance of each other.
Open Tuesday - Friday from 10am to 4pm and Sunday from 9am to 5pm. Closed on Monday and Saturday. The closest station is Liverpool Street.
Borough Market, SE1

Foodies and photographers will think they've died and gone to heaven... Borough Market is home to London's very best meat, fruit, veg, cheeses, fish and oh so much more. Come either to shop or to sample the delicious food, which can be eaten straight from the stalls or in the gardens of Southwark Cathedral. It's worth making the effort to get to Borough Market early as around lunchtime it gets horribly busy. Saturday is the best day to visit.
Open on Thursday from 11am to 5pm, Friday from 12pm to 6pm and Saturday from 8am to 5pm. The nearest station is London Bridge.
Photo Credits: Columbia Road Flower Market by estherase; Spitalfields Market by vertcerise; Borough Market by RedJamJar.
Bridget Randolph, founder of luxury swimwear company Kiribati London, shares her travel highs and lows, tips and experiences - from luxury in the Maldives to getting lost in Rome. Read on for a special iloho offer on her stunning collection of Kiribati swimwear.

The best holiday I've ever had was...
The Maldives, without a doubt. Diving with turtles, lounging in hammocks, sundowners on the beach... heaven! We stayed at the Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru (www.banyantree.com) on a secluded atoll in the Maldives archipelago.
If I could only recommend one place to see before you die it would be...
False Bay, South Africa. You can take a boat out and watch Great White Sharks feed. It's terrifying!

My one piece of travel advice is...
Pack light and do everything.
The best hotel I've ever stayed in is...
Hotel Costes (www.hotelcostes.com) in Paris. I was lucky enough to discover it before it became so renowned, but it is still a dark, mysterious haven that oozes naughtiness!
And the worst hotel I've ever stayed in is...
I have stayed in many truly horrible places, but I suppose if a hotel isn't pretending to be what it's not you can't really be disappointed. I think the most cringy place I ever stayed was a hotel called Deerhurst Resort in Ontario which was more conference centre than hotel. It had me giggling for days because it was so similar to the resort used in Dirty Dancing.
For a perfect holiday I need these ingredients...
A backgammon board, a great book and enough time to get properly lost.
I always pack...
Sun cream and the phone number of a friend of a friend who lives where I'm going. It's the only true way to see a place.
This year I have travelled to...
My husband-to-be is Canadian so we always disappear to the freshwater lakes near Lake Muskoka in Ontario, Canada during the summer, which I really love. This year has also been the "Year of Weddings" for us so we have also been to Italy and France a spoiling amount!

Next year I'm dying to go to...
I'm a bit of a nature nerd at heart so next year I would love to go and do some scuba diving off Australia.
The worst travel experience I've ever had is... Ryanair stranded me overnight in Rome; I was travelling alone and couldn't speak Italian. Since then I have vowed both to learn Italian and never to fly with Ryanair again.
My ideal travel companion is... Tina Fey. Can you imagine how much fun you would have?
Visit Kiribati online now and get 10% off the collection with special code iloho753 (enter the code at checkout).
Launched in June 2009, the Kiribati London collection of bikinis and swimsuits has had immediate success and is currently available at Heidi Klein boutiques in London and will be at Holt Renfrew in Canada from December. Kiribati also ships worldwide via the website www.kiribati-london.com.
Photo credits: The Maldives by daniel pozo; Great White Shark by hermanusbackpackers; Muskoka Lakes by Mary.
"Festival of Freedom": Celebrating 20 Years Since the Fall of the Berlin Wall
Posted by Emma Torry on November 09, 2009 at 03:19 PM
Today marks the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. To celebrate, Berlin is hosting an open-air concert and party tonight.

Over 1,000 colourful 8ft dominoes, along the former route of the wall between Pariser Platz and the Brandenburg Gate, will be knocked over to mark this important anniversary, and to raise awareness of walls around the world that continue to exist.
The last domino will trigger a firework frenzy over the Brandenburg Gate.
Dignitaries expected to attend Berlin's "Festival of Freedom" include U.S Secretary of State Hillary Clinton, French President Nicolas Sarkozy, British Prime Minister Gordon Brown, and former Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev.
Brandenburg Gate by wit.
Have you got one of those friends whose taste you marvel at, whose style you envy, and whose life is über-chic; the sort of friend whose home makes you wish were making millions and pray you'll be asked to stay? If you're fed up of waiting around for a piece of the action, or if you're in dire need of a dose of glam, we suggest you check out newly opened hotel, The Upper House, in Hong Kong.
Designed by Hong Kong architect Andre Fu, The Upper House is an oasis of individual style, space and calm in the centre of the city's business district. The idea is to make guests feel as though they are staying in a friend's luxurious home – a clever concept given that Hong Kong is bursting at the seams with traditional 5* hotels already – and it is well executed. Coffee table books lie on tables in the hotel's common spaces, cosy Hermès throws dangle temptingly from sofa backs, and backgammon boards lie open inviting you to get stuck into a game. In the evenings guests can take their drinks out to the lawn and lounge in candlelight at tables or on beanbags.

In keeping with the home-away-from-home theme, The Upper House has eschewed the traditional hotel check-in and concierge desks in favour of a mobile Guest Experience team that cruises around the hotel with portable laptops checking guests in and catering to their every need. And, in a move that would impress the most fastidious of hosts and demanding of house guests, the Guest Experience team contacts you before your arrival to find out about your particular likes and dislikes. If you're a stickler for extra soft pillows, a fridge stocked only with Diet Coke, or if you want a list of the nearest bars or best beaches, everything you need will be awaiting you. One guest asked for a list of Hong Kong's best hikes and details of what was showing at the cinema, and had all the information tucked into an envelope in her room.
Even without this impressive personal touch, guests are guaranteed to be wowed by the hotel's rooms. Starting – yes starting – at 730 sq. ft (68 sq. m) The Upper House offers the biggest hotel rooms in Hong Kong. Categorised from smallest to largest as Studio 70 (pictured below), Studio 80, Upper Suite and Penthouse, even the "smallest" of the rooms feels pretty vast, but what you gain in space you lose in traditional amenities; The Upper House has no pool and no spa preferring to allocate the space into creating more luxurious guest rooms.

As soon as you walk into the huge bathroom (every room type has one) and clock the separate dressing area, walk-in rain shower and limestone clad bath, we're not sure you'll mind about the lack of pool. Delicious REN products line shower shelves, sinks and baths – kitting you out with everything you need to create your own in-room spa experience.

The rooms come chock-a-block with complimentary treats: internet access (available throughout the hotel), a fully stocked mini-bar (free with the exception of wines, champagne and spirits), and an espresso machine. Hotel information is loaded onto an iTouch docked in the desk, and you can even use it to order room service, check the weather, and access a local map. Pretty nifty.
The size of the Upper House suites would make almost all Hong Kong home owners jealous. Starting at 1,230 sq. ft (114 sq. m) they comprise of an entrance way, large reception room, bedroom and double bathroom. They are perfect for business travellers in Hong Kong with a significant other as there are two ways in and out of the bedroom: a door into the reception room and a door (dubbed the "girlfriend door") out into the hallway, thus the lucky other needn't disturb a meeting should they want to nip out for a splurge in swanky Pacific Place mall underneath the hotel.

Rooms have either harbour or island views. We recommend the island view rooms if you can forego the Hong Kong harbour skyline, they are quieter and more serene.
In terms of wining and dining, there's the longest bar in Hong Kong and a laid-back bistro style restaurant to choose from. The views are impressive, and the semi-private dining spaces perfect for either dinner-à-deux or a business tête-à-tête.
If The Upper House ticks your boxes now is the time to head to the home away from home: until the end of December you get two nights for the price of one. Bearing in mind how much you'd have to spend on a thank-you present for your über-stylish friend, perhaps it makes more sense to splash out on a couple of nights at The Upper House than to take up an invite from them...
The Two Nights for One offer is valid until 31st December 2009. Rates start from HK$3,388 for a 730sq ft Island View Studio 70.
The Upper House
Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 2918 1838; Web: www.upperhouse.com.
Ski Hotspot Breckenridge, Colorado Votes to Legalise Marijuana
Posted by Emma Torry on November 05, 2009 at 09:25 AM
Voters in Breckenridge, one of Colorado's most popular ski resorts, legalised marijuana and pot paraphernalia - bongs, pipes, etc - by a nearly three to one margin this week. The new law, which comes into effect on 1 January 2010, allows adults over the age of 21 to possess up to one ounce (28g) of the drug.

Although you're allowed to possess marijuana, you're not allowed to smoke it in public places, which means no dope on the slopes.
The ski lifts open in just 6 days; Breckenridge averages 300 inches of snow and 300 days of blue skies per year.
Photo by Luke Wisley.
Travel Tips: Cell Phone Immortality in Hong Kong
Posted by Emma Torry on November 04, 2009 at 02:36 PM
It's never ideal when your phone dies on you in a new city. If this happens to you in Hong Kong though you're in luck as you can recharge your battery in any 7 Eleven store for just HK$10 (US$1.20 / 80p). There's a 7 Eleven on practically every street corner in Hong Kong so it won't take you long to find one.

Pop in, drop off your battery (just your battery, not the whole phone), return 30 minutes et voilà, no more running on empty. Nifty huh?
Photo Credit: 7 Eleven by speedwaystar via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Fun Travel Quiz: Which Caribbean Island Suits You Best?
Posted by Emma Torry on October 29, 2009 at 11:14 AM
If you can't decide between Anguilla or Antigua, the Cayman Islands or Cuba, Martinique or Montserrat then take this quiz, on the Washington Post's website, to find out which Caribbean island is the right one for you.

My quiz results tell me to head to Jamaica, Anguilla, Barbados or Nevis; sounds pretty good to me!
Take the quiz here.
Photo by Michelle Brea.
It might be 20 years since the Berlin wall came down, but if you check into The Ostel, Berlin's new GDR-designed hostel, you'd be forgiven for thinking time had stood still.

Full of details to delight even the most ostalgic (nostalgic for life in the former East "Ost" Germany) of visitors, The Ostel cashes in on the trend for recreating aspects of daily life and culture of the former GDR.
Housed in an original Plattenbau, a typical East German building constructed of large, prefabricated concrete slabs, The Ostel offers dorm rooms, private rooms and a GDR Holiday Apartment that can sleep up to six. Rooms cost from €9 per person per night.
We can see The Ostel's Communist kitsch vibe and its proximity's to some of the best of Berlin's nightlife making it a firm favourite in the Berlin stag / hen repertoire.

If stepping back in time is your thing make sure you take a tour of Berlin in an old Trabbi - another East Berlin icon - to add to the GDR experience. Visit www.trabi-safari.de for more information.
The Ostel
Wriezener Karree 5, 10243, Berlin, Germany; Tel: +49 30 25 76 86 60; Fax: +49 30 25 76 88 07; Email: contact@ostel.eu; Web: www.ostel.eu.
Photo Credits: The Ostel ©OSTEL GbR; Trabant by Genial23.

Say hello to the Red Crab of Christmas Island. Around this time every year, Christmas Island - an Australian territory in the Indian Ocean - sees the annual migration of about 100 million Red Crabs from the forests to the sea to breed. This phenomenon has been called one of the wonders of the natural world. If you're keen to see it with your own eyes, the best spots to watch are said to be Flying Fish Cove, Ethel Beach and Greta Beach.

And onto the less fortunate Hairy Crab or Chinese Mitten Crab ("before" shot above, "after" shot below). Revered in Shanghai as the pinnacle of all culinary delicacies, especially for the female's roe, Hairy Crab Season is now in full swing. Chinese spend hundreds of yuan on this annual treat and restaurants in Shanghai and Hong Kong go into Hairy Crab menu overdrive.

Have you tried Hairy Crab or seen the Red Crab Migration on Christmas Island? We've love to hear about your experiences, please leave us a comment.
Photo Credits: "Red crab Christmas Island" by Peter from Perth; "A Crab Close-up" by triin; "Chinese Mitten Crab" by 囧-WQ-囧. Via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Halloween is fast approaching and with it an increased appetite for all things spooky and paranormal. Have you ever done a ghost tour on your travels? You might turn your nose up and say it's all a charade, but ghost tours can be a great way to learn more about the history of a place, as well as upping your adrenaline levels by a notch or two. So what's there to lose? Here are our picks of three of the world's best ghost tours.
Mary King's Close and the South Bridge Vaults: Edinburgh, Scotland
Mary King's Close and the South Bridge Vaults form part of Edinburgh's historic underworld (both lie hidden beneath the Royal Mile). As you descend into the darkness and mystery of the underground closes and vaults your imagination will get a real work out as you listen to the stories of ghosts, murders, plague victims and witches.

Mary King's Close today is the remains of a mediaeval street buried underneath Edinburgh's City Chambers and the Royal Mile - the paranormal happenings that have taken place there are world renowned. When the Black Death hit Edinburgh in 1645 there were around 500 of the city's poorest people living and working in Mary King's Close; about half of them were dead or dying from the disease. The story goes that the city decided to act against further outbreak and the Close's inhabitants were quarantined in their homes and left to die. If you go down to the Close look out for a young ghost called Annie; she's been spotted by lots of people over the years and there's one room in particular that she is rumoured to haunt.
The South Bridge Vaults were built in late 18th century, and abandoned by the 1830s - the corridors and chambers are still unchanged. Burke and Hare, the body snatchers who sold corpses to medical schools, are rumoured to have hunted for victims in these Vaults.
According to The Edinburgh Ghost Project 2001 there abnormally high levels of paranormal activity in Edinburgh's Underground Vaults. As added testament to the ghostly goings on in Edinburgh's underworld, the "Most Haunted" TV team has staged one of its live shows in the South Bridge Vaults and Mary King's Close.
For more info about the Mary King's Close tour visit Mercat Tours. For more info about the Vaults tour visit Auld Reekie Tours.
French Quarter: New Orleans, USA
The French Quarter is the oldest and most famous neighbourhood in America's "Most Haunted" city. Here ghost stories and paranormal sightings mingle with the very real, and very macabre "City of the Dead": St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, where you can visit the Queen of New Orleans Voodoo, Marie Laveau.
Laveau's former home at 1020 St. Ann Street is said to be one of the French Quarter's most haunted spots. People are said to have seen her spirit, along with those of her followers, engaged in Voodoo ceremonies there.
Another must-see spot for ghost-busters is Madame LaLaurie's house at 1140 Royal Street. She was responsible for the torture, mistreatment and death of many of her slaves, and apparently you can still here the screams of her victims today.

Visitors to New Orleans can take their pick from several ghost tours of the French Quarter, amongst the best operators are Haunted History Tours, New Orleans Ghost Tour, and Historic New Orleans Walking Tours.
Read more about New Orleans' most haunted destinations here.
Catacombs of Paris: Paris, France
The Catacombs of Paris (L'Ossuaire Municipal) houses a vast collection of human bones in a network of subterranean tunnels and caverns. The catacombs were created in the 1780s to house remains overspilling from the city's overcrowded and badly maintained cemeteries - it's thought that there are around six million Parisians buried in the catacombs.

Believers maintain that the way the bones were uprooted from their original resting spots and placed in the tunnels was disrespectful and this is what causes the paranormal hoo-hah in the catacombs. There have been reports of ghostly voices and moving shadows down in the underground tunnels. Are you brave enough to handle it...?
Find out more about the Catacombs Ghost Tour here.
Have you been on a ghost tour? Which one did you take and what did you think?
Photo Credits: "Ghost Tour" by thecnote; "Haunted? 1140 Royal Street" by raelb; "Catacombs" by jrmyst. All via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Old Havana in the rain is an amazing place to be. After two weeks in Cuba, in the hottest weather I have ever known, the rains came. We were on our way to dinner, looking for a place that had been recommended to us, one of Havana's many paladares—family-run, home-based restaurants—which are often unmarked and known only by word of mouth.

Our taxi driver, of course, had never heard of the place we were looking for, so he dropped us off somewhere in the middle of Old Havana and left us to find our way. We had been wandering without luck for about ten minutes when the clouds broke. Within seconds the rain was coming down in sheets and we were soaked to the skin. The streets quickly emptied as locals sought shelter in their homes, and the few tourists who were in the area took refuge under whatever cover they could find.
Our refuge was a tunnel where a road went under a raised apartment building. In the tunnel there was a group of young boys playing a kind of handball. They seemed oblivious to the rain, playing and shouting for the ball or score, plunging through the large puddle forming in the middle of the road as we stayed close to the raised edges of the tunnel in an attempt to keep our shoes dry.
Watching the boys, we realised our own foolishness in hiding from the warm rain, and we emerged from our hideaway back into the near-deserted streets of Havana. We found the street where we had been told the paladar was located. We walked up and down the block three times before we noticed a young woman sitting on the side of the road. We asked her if she knew of the place, and she stood up and yelled up at the window above. A man upstairs threw down a key: we had found our paladar.

We had an enormous and wonderful meal in the upstairs room that was covered but had open walls through which we watched and heard the rain. The huge and beautiful rooster that lived in the upstairs courtyard kept his eye on the weather as well. By the time we had finished our meal and paid the small bill, the rain had stopped. It stopped as suddenly as it had come, and we arrived back at our apartment happy and dry. My memories of Cuba will stay with me forever, and I will always be grateful that I chanced to experience Old Havana in the rain.
For more information about paladares in Havana visit these websites:

Photo Credits: "Lluvia" by javiekitela; "Domesticity in Old Havana" by peamasher; "paladar la guarida" by bruna benvegnù. All images via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Hotel Review: The Napasai - Koh Samui, Thailand
Posted by Emma Torry on October 13, 2009 at 03:38 PM
No matter how many miles you've travelled to get to The Napasai, as soon as you collapse into your enormous white bed, listening to nothing but the sound of lapping waves, rustling palms and humming cicadas, you'll know your journey has been worth it.

A few weeks after my own trip to The Napasai, the word that comes to mind when summing it up is serene. It is the perfect place for some serious R, R and R (if you feel like throwing in some romance to the old equation).
Unlike so many of Koh Samui's resorts, The Napasai is set in 17 acres of private tropical gardens and is blissfully free from irksome next door neighbours and their accompanying noise. Whichever room category you opt for, you're guaranteed unmarred views over Ban Tai beach and the Gulf of Thailand all the way to the horizon where Samui's sister islands, Koh Panghan (where the famous full moon parties take place) and Koh Tao rise up from the sea.

The resort is made up of Sea View Cottages, Beachfront Cottages, Garden Cottage Suites, Beachfront Cottage Suites and private villas, all of which are decorated in the traditional Thai style – like Jim Thompson's famous Bangkok house on a smaller scale – and dotted with clusters of fresh orchids. The cottages are spacious, quiet and comfortable, with private balconies where you can sit and soak up the incredible views. The bedrooms have both an enormous king-sized bed, and a Thai style day bed. The bathrooms come with big tubs, perfect for soaking in, and delicious Panpuri natural products that have been created especially for The Napasai (you'll want to fill your whole suitcase with them).

The real show stoppers at The Napasai though are its infinity pool, set just above the resort's private beach, and the beach itself, with those unbroken views across to Koh Pangnan and Koh Tao. The Napasai staff even equips you with a flag when you're relaxing on the beach so you don't have to stir yourself to fetch a drink – hoist the flag and they'll come to you. Sunbathing doesn't get much better than that. When we were there the little beach was so deserted it felt like a private slice of island paradise.

Despite our best efforts to try out the spa we couldn't get an appointment, which I suppose is a sign that the treatments are good. You can put the big tub in your room to use though and ask the spa to run you a special treatment bath to take the edge of jetlag or sunburn.
The in resort dining options are fairly standard. As we were only on Samui for two days we didn't have much time to explore other local options, although I can recommend Nikki Beach on Lipa Noi (approx. 20 minutes away from The Napasai) for fab sundowners and chic day-bed style dining.
The Napasai is one of those places that you don't want to leave, to the detriment of any Samui sightseeing plans you may have, but it guarantees you'll come away having indulged in low-key but luxurious R, R (and R) time.

The Napasai
65/10 Baan Tai, Maenam, Koh Samui, Surat Thani, 84330, Thailand; Tel: +66 (0)77 42 92 00; Fax: +66 (0)77 42 92 01; Email: info@napasai.com; Web: www.napasai.com.
Nikki Beach
96/3 Moo 2 Lipa Noi, Koh Samui, Surat Thani, 84140, Thailand; Tel: +66 (0)77 914 500; Web: www.nikkibeach.com/kohsamui.
All photos are ©Emma Torry except Seaview cottage at Napasai, which is ©Orient-Express Hotels.
Travel Tips: Mineral Pools of the North Island, New Zealand
Posted by Emma Torry on October 12, 2009 at 02:53 PM
As one of the great adventure capitals of the world, New Zealand boasts an impressive array of activities for travellers: bungy jumping in Queenstown, skydiving in Taupo, Zorbing in Rotorua. Not to mention a full assortment of hot springs in which to ease those weary bones after a long day on the road.

To many travellers familiar with hot springs around the world, most of New Zealand's should come as a pleasant surprise, especially those located on the South Island. The main problem with the hot springs on the North Island is determining which pools are "authentic". In Rotorua, a town practically full to the brim with hot water - and smelling strongly of sulphur - nearly every motel and motor inn advertises their features: Sky TV, high speed internet, and hot pools. Catch the scam? Of course not. You would think by spending the evening in an establishment in the heart of a hot spring village you would be entitled to soak in real hot spring water (as opposed to heated tap water). Unfortunately, the sign you should have been seeking was "mineral pools", not hot pools; the terminology varies by location.
I suppose there are certain slang terms and ways of deceiving cash customers in any country... hot pools, hot springs, mineral pools... you can't go wrong with the name waiariki; the original Maori term, meaning "chiefly waters", which commonly refers to outdoor pools in the countryside, as opposed to some of the more family friendly resorts like Miranda - they may claim to have the largest hot pool in the southern hemisphere, but that doesn't change the fact it's nothing more than a glorified water park, designed to entertain kids rather than cater to those seeking to enjoy a quiet soak as the sun slowly sets.
These are the most chiefly waters I know on New Zealand's North Island.
1) Ngawha Springs, Northland
Ngawha (pronounced "nafa") is the sole source of mineral pools in Northland. Well off the beaten path and not mentioned in Lonely Planet, these waiariki pools vary in temperature and mineral content. If you feel like getting scalded or have skin as tough as the first Maori to take a soak, check out the Bull Dog bath at 45 degrees C. Want to ease into the hotter ones first? Soloman is a favourite of mine at 36 degrees, and I also enjoyed the rich milky baths on the other side of the complex to cool off. Best of all, these waters are in wooden tubs crafted from native wood, set in an area so remote it's unlikely to ever be full to the brim with tourists or families. Word of warning: don't plan to keep whatever bathing suit you choose to wear; the minerals will stain almost any material a nice off-colour puke, and leave it smelling like delicious sulphur. Hold off on showering after you visit; although the smell may not be best suited to help you pick up members of the opposite sex, the minerals will continue revitalizing your skin as long as it remains.
2) Hot Water Beaches

Being buried in hot sand is a little unnerving to many first timers; often the first question I hear is: "Can I get out from underneath if there's a problem?" No worries; you're in New Zealand, and you only have to dig a hole, not bury yourself inside it. Sand baths like these exist the world over, from Ibusuki, Japan, to Deception Island, Antarctica. When you're on the North Island, there are two such places I would recommend:
Hot Water Beach, Coromandel Peninsula
Go hire a shovel from the nearby Hot Water Beach shop and dig yourself a nice little spot of paradise on this sandy beach. It's a delicate balance determining exactly when to soak, but generally, two hours before and after the low tide is safe. Just be sure not to cool yourself off in the ocean if you're feeling particularly sweaty; this beach, along with several others in the area, has particularly dangerous rips and undertows.
Te Puia Hot Spings, Kawhia
If you're looking for a hot water beach well beyond the reaches of Auckland and most tourists' tracks, head south of the surfing city of Raglan and keep going until you hit hot black sand. The beaches of Kawhia give off a pleasant, but not overwhelming, smell of sulphur. Only this time, plan to bring a shovel from home.
3) Rotorua

Rotorua is essentially one big hot pool. You don't even have to travel outside the city limits to find some decent places to soak, but if you do feel like a short drive, the Wai Ora Spa in Tikitere (Hell's Gate) is the way to go; prepare to pay far more than you would at any other hot pool, but the hot mud treatment is worth the weight off your wallet. Closer to downtown, the Polynesian Spa is probably the classier route, with private pools and a great view of Lake Rotorua, but don't shy away from the Blue Baths, either; the main pool is little more than lukewarm even on the hottest summer day, but the adjacent baths seem to be fed directly from the spring. Next to Ngawha, the hottest I have yet experienced in a waiariki.
In my humble opinion, however, the city's main attraction is the smallest of all. As you ride the bus in from Auckland, the smell of sulphur seeps in from Kuirau Park, the site on which you should focus your photography efforts: boiling mud pools, steaming hot springs, and children playing nearby. Best of all, this park is home to something I had not expected to see outside of the island of Kyushu in Japan: foot baths. Take it from me, my friends, there is nothing sweeter in life than going for a barefoot run in this park just as the sun is beginning to rise, letting your toes freeze in the morning dew, and then taking a break in one of the few foot baths to warm yourself. "Sweet as", as the Kiwis would say.
4) Taupo Plateau

I can only offer you one bit of advice when it comes to soaking in Taupo: get out of town. The Taupo region has some of the best hot pools on both the North and South Island, but the pickings are slim in urban areas. If you're headed north-east, you must relax in Kerosene Creek's jacuzzi pool or the aptly-named 'Paradise' to the east of Lake Ohakuri. In addition, there are many natural springs on private property; it's best to call the owners ahead of time if you're planning a trip (see www.nzhotpools.co.nz for details).
If you have only a short stay in New Zealand and hot springs are your goal, focus all your efforts on Taupo and its surroundings. Want to throw some of that famous New Zealand adrenaline into the mix? Jump out of a perfectly good aeroplane before you hit the baths.
5) At the End of a Great Walk
"In the middle of the journey of my life, I found myself astray in a dark wood, where the straight road had been lost." How unfortunate Dante chose to hike into Hell rather than the Lake Waikaremoana Track, one of New Zealand's nine 'Great Walks'. He could have found a pool full of soothing water waiting for him rather than an ominous gateway.
Maungataniwha Hot Springs is in fact a little off the Lake Waikaremoana Track, but well within the boundaries of Te Urewera National Park, the largest on the North Island. The best route would probably be to stop at the Parahaki Hut overnight then make your way over to the springs: hot water rolling down a rock face. You'll probably have to dig a small pool to enjoy a soak, but won't all that effort be worth it after a "mere" seven hours' hiking? Definitely. For detailed directions, check out Sally Jackson's "Hot Springs of New Zealand" or Lonely Planet's "Tramping in New Zealand".
Photo Credits: New Zealand Hot Springs by jjay69; "Enjoying a hot bath!" by magical-world; "Rotorua, Te Whakarewarewa" by vtveen; "Taupo Hot Springs" by xoque.
One of Britain's greatest treasures is the plethora of historic houses, estates, gardens, churches and ancient ruins that run the length and breadth of cities and countryside alike.
With such a rich past Britain is teeming with places of historical significance, and it's hard to narrow down your choices of where to visit. Here we have rounded up a list of ten of the National Trust's most visited properties to give you an insight into Britain's most precious of historic gems.
Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Water Garden, North Yorkshire

Like India's Taj Mahal, the pyramids at Giza in Egypt and the Acropolis at Athens, Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Water Garden is a World Heritage Site made up of 800 hectares of spectacular ruins and stunning parks, including a medieval deer park – grazed today by 500 Red, Sika, and Fallow Deer – and the largest abbey ruins in the country. Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Water Garden was recognised by UNESCO for its 18th Century landscape, 12th Century Abbey (founded by Benedictine monks in 1132), Elizabethan Fountains Hall and Victorian St Mary's Church. Over 300,000 visitors a year come to soak up the history and culture at this important English landmark.
The estate sits in an area of outstanding natural beauty in the valley of the river Skell, 30 miles away from the city of York.
Stourhead Garden, Wiltshire

Stourhead is home to a world-famous 18th-century landscape garden, a "first-of-its-kind" Palladian mansion, parkland, woods and chalk downs. Named after the Stourton family who lived in the estate for 700 years, Stourhead was sold in 1717 to Henry Hoare. The original house was demolished and a new mansion was built in the Palladian style. Over the next 200 years the Hoare family collected art and antiques, which are exhibited still today, and built a number of temples and follies in the gardens designed to show off their education and wealth. The views over three counties from the top of King Alfred's Tower shouldn't be missed.
Polesden Lacey, Surrey

Once the honeymoon spot for King George VI and the Queen Mother, Polesden Lacey is a Regency house boasting opulent Edwardian interiors, an interesting collection of Old Masters paintings, and stunning views across the North Downs.
Polesden Lacey was last home to the Edwardian society hostess the Hon. Mrs Greville, as well as to the playwright Richard Sheridan at the end of the 18th century. Not to be missed are the beautiful walled rose garden, Polesden Lacey's extensive grounds and lawns, and the landscape walks.
Wakehurst Palace, West Sussex

If you're into botanical gardens, the Elizabethan Wakehurst Palace in West Sussex is the place to go, and there are over 477,000 visitors a year who will agree. The property is run by the famous Kew Gardens and is an important site for plant conservation and research, with more than a billion seeds collected so far for future preservation. Wakehurst Palace has the world's largest growing Christmas Tree: it is 35m tall and is lit by 1,800 energy saving lights from advent to Twelfth Night. Kenneth Branagh used Wakehurst Palace as the location for much of his 2006 film "As You Like It".
St. Michael's Mount, Cornwall

Legend, myth and history abound at St. Michael's Mount in Cornwall. A giant named Cormoran is said to have lived on the Mount; he was followed by monks, pilgrims, armies, fleets, and many more besides. In 495 a fisherman is said to have seen an apparition of the Archangel St. Michael, and four miracles are said to have occurred at St. Michael's Mount between 1262 and 1263. During the Wars of the Roses the island was under siege for six months, and then later, in 1588, it the first beacon was lit on the Mount to warn of the Spanish Armada. From 1642 to 1646, St. Michael's Mount saw bloody skirmishes between Royalists and Oliver Cromwell's New Model Army.
Quarry Bank Mill and Styal Estate, Cheshire

You can still feel the pulse of the Industrial Revolution, which changed the face of Britain, at Quarry Bank Mill and the Styal Estate in Cheshire. On a visit to the cotton mill you will experience life as a mill worker, and a tour of the Apprentice House, will shed light on the lives of the Industrial Era's child workforce.
Chartwell, Kent

Chartwell was the family home of one of Britain's most famous Prime Ministers, Sir William Churchill, who bought the property for its views over the Weald of Kent to Sussex. The rooms and gardens have been preserved to be as similar as possible to when Churchill lived at Chartwell, with pictures, books, maps, honours, medals and personal mementoes on show.
Bodnant Garden, Gwynedd, Wales

You can see the Snowdonia Mountains from Bodnant's spectacular terraced gardens. Set above a valley and the River Conwy, Bodnant Garden is home to plants from all over the world, particularly China, North America, Europe and Japan.
Bodiam Castle, East Sussex

Bodiam Castle is dates back to medieval times and it famous for its battlements, ramparts and moat. The castle was built in 1385 by Sir Edward Dalyngrigge, with the permission of Richard II, in order to defend against French invasion during the Hundred Years' War. Fans of "Monty Python and the Holy Grail" will recognise the Bodiam as the film's Swamp Castle.
Corfe Castle, Dorset

Corfe Castle is one of the oldest and most evocative castles in England. Over its 1,000 year history it has seen the alleged murder of King Edward the Martyr, royal hunts, palace life during the reign of King John and sieges during the English Civil War. It was during a siege in 1646 that the castle was demolished and ruined by Parliamentarians; much of the stone was used to build the houses of Corfe Castle Village. Today visitors can enjoy the interactive castle tour, plus walks through the surrounding Purbeck Hills.
Have you visited any of Britain's historic palaces, places and properties? Where did you most enjoy and why?
Photo Credits: Fountains Abbey by yewenyi; Stourhead by Joe Dunckley; Polesden Lacey by swamibu; Wakehurst Palace by Anguskirk; St. Michael's Mount by Michal Osmenda; Quarry Bank Mill and Bodnant Gardnes by zund; Chartwell by johnmuk; Bodiam Castle by Sacred Destinations; Corfe Castle by Steve9091. All photos via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Travel Tips: 10 Things You Definitely Should NOT Do In Japan
Posted by Emma Torry on October 07, 2009 at 11:32 AM
When you are travelling in Japan follow these simple guidelines to ensure that cultural misunderstandings (or worse) do not occur.
10) Misuse Your Shoes

Thresholds at businesses and all homes and apartments in Japan have a convenient place for you to store your shoes and don borrowed slippers for your journey. However, did you know you should never wear slippers on tatami mats? It's also a huge cultural faux-pas to come out of the bathroom still wearing toilet slippers, as they've been rubbing on dirty linoleum (although this even slips Japanese minds from time to time).
9) Bathe in the Bathtub
The bathing culture in Japan is unparalleled. Even if I soak in a mineral pool in the backwoods of New Zealand, nothing will make me feel more cleansed inside and out than a soak in a traditional Japanese hot spring resort. Ignoring the fact the water is still hotter and contains more minerals than most hot pools abroad, Japanese bathing etiquette dictates one should shower thoroughly before entering the steaming bath; if you were to do otherwise in Japanese homes (as a guest you would be given the honour of bathing first) the family would have to completely drain the tub, clean out the ring, and refill. You'd probably just be kicked out if you brought soap and shampoo into the pool at a public bathhouse.
8) Fumble with Chopsticks

You don't have to be able to pick up an individual grain of rice to use chopsticks properly. Rather, just be aware that there are a few things for which they were not meant to be used. First, even if you're sharing dishes with a group, do not pass food from one set of chopsticks to another, as this is considered in bad taste. Second, when not using them, set your chopsticks across your plate or bowl as you would a knife; poking them out of your rice resembles two sticks of incense commonly used for a certain death ceremony... and why would you want to be reminded of that over a fine dinner?
7) Grope on a Train

Obviously this isn't a mere misunderstanding of cultures if such an act were to occur, but even when visiting Japan and having nothing but pure intentions, one should be aware of the dangers. Women (and even men) have been fondled on crowded trains and often cannot trace the hands back to their owners. This has lead to women-only subway cars during peak travel times, and the police giving advice to young girls: seize the arm of your attacker and don't let go until security sees his face. I only mention this because if you're a foreigner riding a train in the land of the rising sun who knows absolutely no Japanese, and when disembarking you find a man or woman screaming "shijou!" or "chikan!", respectively (the terms for female and male perverts), you're essentially at the mercy of one individual who may have mistaken your desire to get a little bit of room on the car as blatant groping.
6) Choose the Wrong Seat
There's a somewhat antiquated custom when it comes to eating out in groups. If you're with some business colleagues, it's better for a junior member (in terms of hierarchy, not age) to take the seat closest to the doorway or access point, the senior member the farthest away. The belief is that should an attack occur, the least experienced (thus the least valuable) will be killed first, giving the others time to mobilize and protect the higher-ups.
5) Show Strong Emotions
One of the most common mistakes a foreigner makes upon entering the Japanese business world is to openly express his frustration when the unexpected comes along... and it always comes along. Showing strong emotions like anger is a social death sentence in Japan; the only time someone might get away with it would be if he were seriously inebriated, or at least making the effort to get there. Tears, especially those of happiness, can be forgiven (even from men), but take care to keep your temper in check.
4) Blow Your Nose
Even out on the street when it's sub-zero degree weather, blowing your nose in Japan is probably one of the rudest things you can do, even more so if you're talking with someone face-to-face and take a moment to pull out your handkerchief. It's the equivalent of asking someone to watch you use the toilet.
3) Yawn
This is a good policy for conversations around the world, but it really hits home in Japan. Whereas in the States or other countries one might dismiss a tired expression with a certain nonchalance or a chuckle (e.g. "crazy night on the town?"), in Japan you might as well slap your superior in the face to completely prove your desire not to listen.
2) When Listening...
I had an interview with an English school in Akita Prefecture not too long ago. As I was listening to the manager speak via Skype, I realised how out of practice I was at listening by Japanese standards. He spoke for only a few seconds at a time, each time taking my silence as an indication that the call must have been disconnected. Why? Because I failed to provide the appropriate guttural sounds: when speaking one-on-one with someone in Japan (group meetings can be an exception), it's best to utter a few words every now and again to show you still have the speaker's attention. A simple hai (yes), or so des ne (ah, I see) can work wonders.
1) Respect Yourself
Modesty is a virtue. I cannot count the number of times as an English teacher I gave high praise to certain young Japanese students, only to have their parents contradict me by saying something like "yes, but she's terrible studying at home" or "no, you must be mistaken". Disregarding or refusing complements in Japan is the only way to accept them graciously:
(in Japanese)
Me: Excuse me, but could you tell me the way to the nearest train station?
Japanese: Ooohhh! Your Japanese is so skillful!
Me: No, no, it's nothing really.
By claiming you have no skills or any life experience exceeding that of another, you in fact raise their impression of you. If I were to refer to myself as "Turner-san" or respond to such praise of my language skills with "Thank you very much! I have been diligently studying for nine months!", then I might be forgiven as an ignorant foreigner... but more likely marked as arrogant.
Photo Credits: Slippers by amirjina; Chopsticks by KaiChanVong; Morning Train by gullevek via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Shot of the Day: Polar Bear Cub Plays Piggyback
Posted by Emma Torry on October 05, 2009 at 12:35 PM

Angela Plumb, a tourist from the UK, captured this rare shot of a seven-month-old polar bear cub riding on its mother's back from a ship in the Svalbard archipelago - midway between mainland Norway and the North Pole.
The polar bear mother is wearing a radio collar, which prompted Mrs Plumb to contact Dr Jon Aars, from the Norwegian Polar Institute in Tromso, to ask whether this was a common sighting.
"I hadn't seen this behaviour before or heard about it so I asked other researchers and found out it is something that has been observed but not frequently at all," Dr Aars says.
Via the BBC website.
Kingfisher Airlines Launches Routes from Mumbai to Singapore and Hong Kong
Posted by Emma Torry on September 28, 2009 at 04:42 PM
Kingfisher Airlines, India's only Five Star airline rated by Skytrax, has launched new daily non-stop flights between Mumbai and Singapore and Mumbai and Hong Kong. The flights on both these routes are operated using the new Airbus A330-200s configured with two classes - Kingfisher First and Kingfisher Class.

Kingfisher First passengers can enjoy a bar staffed with a bartender and a break-out seating area; an in-seat massager on every seat; mood lighting with starry sky; and in-seat chargers.
Kingfisher Airlines flight IT 071 takes off from Mumbai at 10:55pm and arrives in Hong Kong at 8:05am. The return flight IT 072 takes off from Hong Kong at 2:05pm and arrives in Mumbai at 5:50 pm.
Kingfisher Airlines flight IT 029 takes off from Mumbai at 11:05pm and arrives at Singapore at 7:05am. The return flight IT 030 takes off from Singapore at 10:15am and arrives in Mumbai at 1:05pm.
Travel Book Recommendation: 'Blood River' by Tim Butcher
Posted by Emma Torry on September 24, 2009 at 03:41 PM
I've just finished reading Tim Butcher's book, 'Blood River: A Journey to Africa's Broken Heart', about his 600 mile journey overland (bar one helicopter journey) across the Congo from Lake Tanganyika to Boma. I couldn't put it down.

Butcher tells the story of his "suicidal" expedition through the Congo, as he follows in the footsteps of Henry Morton ("Dr. Livingstone, I presume?") Stanley, the Victorian journalist / explorer who charted the Congo in 999 days. He ties the narrative of his journey to accounts of the country's compelling and turbulent history.
He is helped across the Congo by UN peacekeepers, aid workers, a pygmy rights advocate, monks, rebel leaders, relics of the Colonial era, a drunk motorbike owner and many more colourful characters. Almost everyone Butcher meets he interviews, resulting in a fascinating patchwork of histories, stories and experiences.
In his own words, his Congo journey was not "adventure travel" but more "ordeal travel". Along the way Butcher encounters stumbling block after stumbling block, finally beating the obstacles corrupt officials, hunger, illness, and political and socio instabilities throw his way.
The journey that took Stanley three years, and cost the lives of hundreds of tribesmen, took Butcher 44 days. Along the way he witnesses the scars of the Congo Wars - burnt out villages, exposed human remains, marauding Mai Mai gunmen - and the regression of a country whose grandparents remember modernity, but whose children have only ever seen its relics. As Butcher puts it, the modern world "had tried, but failed, to establish itself in the Congo".
The Congo may have been a glamorous host to Evelyn Waugh, Graham Greene, Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn once upon a time, but today it is "the most daunting, backward country on earth"; as Butcher laments, he "touched the heart of Africa and found it broken".
'Blood River' is a gripping and gruesome, passionate and poignant, historical and harrowing account of a country that was once a functioning place, but is now "undeveloping", spiralling backwards to a state very similar to that which Stanley witnessed in the 1870s. The Congo is "a place where the hands of the clock spin not forward, but backwards."
Find out more about 'Blood River' here.

Photo Credit: 'Pirogues on the Congo' by Julien Harneis.
A thirteenth century Norse "travel guide" advised Vikings against all but essential travel to Scotland, or Skotland, as it was then known. The Vikings were warned about dangerous natives, an incomprehensible language, and terrible weather; upon arrival, Norsemen had to be prepared to suffer instant attack.

A new interpretation of the medieval Icelandic Sagas (Íslendingasögur) - a literary phenomenon of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries – reveals that Scotland as worth a trip for marauding "Icelanders who want to practise robbery". However, Vikings were warned that a jaunt to Scotland might cost them their lives.
The chronicles, which were written were written on yellowed calf vellum 800 years ago, have been interpreted by Gisli Sigurdsson, a historian at Reykjavik University, who believes the sagas – part fiction, part fact – reveal how the ancient Norse were less bloodthirsty than legend has them.
One saga tells of a Scot called Grjotgard, a kinsman of Melkolf, King of Scotland (Malcolm II), who intercepted a party of arriving Vikings in a western sea loch. He warned: "You have two choices. You can go ashore and we will take all your property, or we'll attack you and kill every man we lay our hands on".
Unsurprisingly, the Norsemen were nervous about sailing up the west coast sea lochs which they dubbed the 'Scottish fjords'. Orkney, however, is described as a useful base for Vikings wanting to pillage Scotland – as is Fort Skardaborg, which is today's Scarborough.
Orkney historian Tom Muir said: "They picked weak targets, like monasteries. Some of the monasteries were basically unguarded banks of cash with a sign above them saying 'free money'. The truth is that there were raids both ways and that the Norse had every reason to fear their Celtic neighbours."
Though recorded in the 13th century, accounts in the Icelandic Sagas are based on events that happened 200 years earlier. The chronicles served as route guides for raiders, traders, crusaders and explorers, effectively a road map of medieval Europe and the Middle East. They have proved remarkably accurate, even helping archaeologists to pinpoint the remains of a Norse village in Newfoundland.
Photo Credits: Viking by chatirygirl.
German nudists are to get their own 18km (11 mile) long hiking trail in the Harz mountain range so they can ramble in nothing but their birthday suits, Reuters reports.

Campsite owner, Heinz Ludwig, who has spearheaded the project to create the nudist trail says: "I think it's a great way to promote tourism here, there's already been a lot of interest in it."
Running between the village of Dankerode and the Wippertal dam, the 18km naturist trail is marked up with signs warning clothed walkers that they might encounter hikers in the buff.
According to Reuters, one of the signs reads: "If you don't want to see people with nothing on then you should refrain from moving on!".
Since about the 1980s there has been an extensive removal of restrictions on public nudity in Germany, and Freikörperkultur or FKK (Free Body Culture) is a popular pastime.
Over in the Swiss Alps however, naked rambling has been banned. The Swiss canton of Appenzell Innerrhoden has made nude hiking illegal this year in response to an influx of FKK walkers, many of which were crossing over to the Swiss Alps from Germany.
Photo by ricardo.martins via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Stunning Safari Moments: Kruger National Park, South Africa
Posted by Emma Torry on September 22, 2009 at 02:40 PM
The Kruger National Park is home to around 145 species of mammal, which includes an estimated 1,500 lion, 12,000 elephant, 2,500 buffalo, 1,000 leopards and 5,000 rhino (black and white). So, spotting the "big five" is a big possibility.
With all its flora and fauna, the Kruger offers some of the most stunning photographic moments. Here we pick a few of our favourites.

Leopards are usually so shy, and primarily nocturnal, so this shot taken in the Kruger National Park captures a rarely seen leopard moment.

You probably don't immediately associate Ground Hornbills with South African safaris, but this bird is gorgeous, and looks like she's all dolled up for a night on the town. Loving the yawning hippo - incredible colours, reflections and light. A lioness flirts with the camera.

A zebra rolls in the dust, and although the zebra would disagree, we think this little lion cub is almost too gorgeous to be true...

Adult elephants in the Kruger National Park protecting their young.

A Kruger elephant stands alone.

A Nile crocodile offers a look at the more sinister side to the Kruger National Park.

Two giraffe silhouetted against the South African sunrise.

Red Billed Oxpeckers get to work on a giraffe hide - they feed exclusively on the backs of large mammals.

In a rare moment, a male lion shows a cub some lion love.

Two endangered Black Rhinoceros stand and deliver.

Photo Credits: All Kruger National Park photographs by Arno & Louise via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Hong Kong is full of extraordinary photo opportunities for travellers. It is a region of marked contrasts: slick vertiginous skyscrapers, ramshackle traditional Chinese buildings, bustling markets, breathtaking mountains and gorgeous beaches. Travellers with an interest in photography will be richly rewarded by a visit to Hong Kong. Here are our top spots for hot Hong Kong shots.
Top Hong Kong Views:
City skyline from Kowloon
This just never fails to impress. Hong Kong is a seriously photogenic city!Hong Kong from The Peak

Again, a classic spot to get a fab Hong Kong shot, and one that won't let you down (unless the weather is miserable). If you want the city by night shot prepare to jostle with other photographers at dusk for a prime spot along Lugard Road.
- Neon Signs on Nathan Road

In many respects Hong Kong comes to life after dark. The city is full of neon signs like this one, especially around Nathan Road, Mongkok, Causeway Bay and Wanchai.
Pristine Beaches in Sai Kung Country Park
In a city as hectic and (often) as polluted as Hong Kong, the beaches in Sai Kung - such as Tai Long Wan - have got to be seen to be believed. Deserted, unspoiled and tranquil are the three words that spring immediately to mind.Sea and mountain views along The Dragon's Back trail, Shek O
Dubbed "Best Urban Hike" by Time Magazine, The Dragon's Back Trail is an 8.5km trail (with a 5km get out option!) through lush forests, across gurgling waterfalls and along the Dragon's Back ridge. It offers fantastic views of Hong Kong island's mountains and southern coast line. On a good day you can see out to some of the outlying islands.
Hong Kong History & Culture
- Man Mo Temple, Hollywood Road

Built in 1847, the Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road is dedicated to two gods, Man the god of literature and Mo the god of war. The centre of the temple is filled with hundreds of burning incense sticks and coils. Watch a video of the Man Mo Temple.
Mahjong
You'll hear the clicking and clacking of the tiles before you see the players. Mahjong matches take place in shops and cafes across the city.Fortune Tellers, Temple Street Market (near Tin Hau temple)
You can have your fortune told by a man or a bird (no joke); whatever you choose you're guaranteed great photos.Tian Tan Buddha (aka The Big Buddha), Lantau Island
This imposing statue makes a great photographic subject. The 110 ft tall Buddha sits serenely near the Po Lin Monastery at Ngong Ping on Lantau Island.World War II bunkers
There are masses of deserted World War II bunkers across Hong Kong. They serve as a reminder of what happened before and after the Battle of Hong Kong, which began on 8 December 1941 and ended on Christmas Day with Hong Kong surrendering to Japan.Junks
There are very few traditional junks (Chinese sailboats) left in Hong Kong, but there are certainly some to snap. The most obvious is the reproduction Aqua Luna, with its distinctive red sails, which crosses between Hong Kong island and Tsim Sha Tsui daily and nightly. The second one that springs to mind is the Duk Ling junk.
Hong Kong's Architecture

Bank of China Tower
Criticised by some practitioners of Feng Shui, but praised by most others, The Bank of China Tower is one of the most recognisable buildings in Hong Kong. The design is said to resemble growing bamboo shoots, symbolising livelihood and prosperity.International Finance Centre (IFC)
So photogenic that it featured in the recent Batman film, The Dark Knight. The IFC was the city's tallest building until 2008, but has now been usurped by the ICC.The Center
Another location used in The Dark Knight, The Center is best viewed at night when the building's neon lights change colours.Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wanchai
Whether you think it looks like a turtle of a strange armadillo, this building definitely got some interesting curves!Statue Square
The 19th century Statue Square, with its colonial architecture, makes a great place to photograph the old against the new. Nearby buildings include the impressive HSBC headquarters building, and the IFC.Traditional Shop Fronts, Central and Wanchai
Dotted amongst the ultra-modern buildings of Central and Wanchai are pockets of traditional shop fronts that have (so far) survived demolition. Where you do find them you can get a sense of what Hong Kong must have looked like until reclamation began on a large scale.
Hong Kong Icons
Star Ferry
As well as being a Hong Kong icon in its own right, the Star Ferry is also a brilliant place to photograph the famous view of Victoria Harbour and the Hong Kong skyline.Peak Tram
The Peak Tram has been running from Central to Victoria Peak since 1888. It covers 1.4km up a staggering gradient, and offers impressively vertiginous photo opps over the harbour and skyscrapers of Hong Kong.Happy Valley Racecourse
From September to early July Hong Kong's horse races at Happy Valley are not to be missed. Jockeys in colourful silks, gleaming race horses, and a very vibrant crowd make this a hot spot for photographers. Watch a video of the racing at Happy Valley.Trams

Hong Kong has the only tram network in the world that exclusively runs double decker trams. The trams have been running since 1904 and still serve 240,000 commuters every day. They trundle between Shau Kei Wan and Kennedy Town, with a branch connecting to Happy Valley. A trip costs just HK$2 per adult, which is amazing photographic value-for-money.
The Quieter Side of Hong Kong
Seafood restaurants and villages, Lamma Island
See a fish, pick a fish, eat that fish. The seafood restaurants on laid-back Lamma are legendary. Let your lens go into overdrive as you capture village life and seafood feasts.Hiking trails, New Territories
Dramatic views, seclusion and a whole lot of green. These trails offer photographers fantastic shots of Hong Kong's wild side.Tai O village, Lantau Island

Visit Tai O to shoot the scenic Pang Uks (stilt houses), that reach out right over the water. The traditional salted fish and shrimp paste shop fronts also make good photographic fodder.
- Tai Chi
In the early morning people all over Hong Kong head to their nearest outdoor space to practise Tai Chi. The Zoological and Botanical Garden is a great place to shoot if you're willing to get up early (Tai Chi kicks off at about 6:30am).
Hong Kong Festivals
Chinese New Year
Chinese New Year is a great time to photograph heaving temples, bustling flower markets, Lai See packets, and the city's biggest celebrations.Autumn Festival

After Chinese New Year, this is Hong Kong's biggest celebration and makes for great photographs. Shops, restaurants and outdoor spaces are decorated with lanterns and ribbons. Mooncakes are exchanged, and dragon dances take place across the city. One of the best places to celebrate the Autumn Festival is Victoria Park in Causeway Bay.
Hong Kong Markets
The Wet Markets
More death, decapitation and de-scaling than you can imagine, but the wet markets are a brilliant place to get interesting, vibrant shots of Hong Kongers buying their fresh fish, meat and vegetables. Check out the market on Graham Street in Central. Watch a video of a Hong Kong market.Bird Market, Mong Kok
The Yuen Po Street Bird Market is where Hong Kong's songbird owners gather to show off and sell birds in intricately carved cages. Open daily from 7am - 8pm.Flower Market, Mong Kok
The Flower Market's exotic blooms make for some great photographs. Come before Chinese New Year to see families buying auspicious plants to celebrate the new Lunar year. Open daily from 7am - 7pm.Goldfish Market, Mong Kok

Goldfish and exotic species of every size, shape and colour are on display here in aquariums and bags. Head to Tung Choi Street to shoot the spectacle. Open daily from 10:30am - 10pm.
We hope you have a brilliant photo tour of Hong Kong and a fantastic time capturing this amazing city on film. To see more photos of Hong Kong from iloho.com click here.
Photo Credits: 'Hong Kong from The Peak' by Emma Torry; 'Nathan road, Kowloon' by JoopDorresteijn; 'Prayers...' by Hina :-); 'Traditional shop in Central' by Emma Torry; 'Blue House in Wanchai' by Taekwonweirdo; 'Apocalypse Now' by .mushi_king; 'Lantern Festival Bird' by timlam18; 'Goldfish Market' by sebr.
By Connie Motz
Looking for something different to do in New Orleans? How does a narrated walking tour through the cobblestoned French Quarter sound? Fairly normal I hear you say, but think again… Thrill seekers can get their kicks at night in "the most haunted city in America," on a walking tour in search of New Orleans' ghosts and spirits.

What will you see on a haunted tour? Who knows: so be sure to take your camera with plenty of film or lots of space on your memory card just in case; when it comes to the paranormal photographs of seemingly uneventful scenes and uninteresting objects can show eerie shapes and strange shadows once they are developed.
Le Petit Theatre du Vieux Carre has been continuously haunted since it was built in 1922. Two young distraught actresses both committed suicide at the theatre; a stagehand from the 1920s still loves to play tricks on current employees; and a ghostly group of children loves to play with the theatre's office equipment.
In the heart of the French Quarter is the Andrew Jackson Hotel, former site of a boarding school where five children lost their lives in a fire in the 1700s. Hotel guests have reported finding photographs on their cameras taken of them from above as they lay sleeping in their beds at night.

The House on Rue Royale is said to be one of the most haunted and most horrific of all the ghostly realms in New Orleans. The mansion was ruled by Mademoiselle Lalaurie who subjected her slaves to various grotesque tortures and caused a little girl to fall from the rooftop to her death in the courtyard below. They say that the screams can still be heard today.
Near Jackson Square is Pirates Alley where the ghost of Jean Lafitte wanders in the early morning hours. His footsteps can be seen on the damp cobblestone street between the Spanish Governor's Mansion and St. Louis Cathedral.
All tour guides within the city of New Orleans are required to be licensed through a combination of residency and general knowledge of the city, so you can be sure that any tour you choose will be informative, safe, and entertaining.
There are several night time tours offered in New Orleans that explore the haunted "hot spots" that have even been featured on The Discovery Channel and The History Channel.
Gray Line Tours features a nightly departure from the Jackson Brewery for a two hour walkabout reasonably priced at USD 22 per adult.
The New Orleans Ghost Tour offered nightly by Haunted History Tours is touted to be the #1 Haunted Tour in the Crescent City. Reservations can be made for the two hour tour online for the price of USD 20 per adult.
For more information on ghostly tours in New Orleans, visit these websites:
Photo Credits: 'Ghosts of New Orleans' by Diamondduste; 'French Quarter - Andrew Jackson Hotel' by David Paul Ohmer via Flickr (Creative Commons).
If you are travelling to Taiwan's capital, Taipei, then consider exploring the city by bike - both the planet and your wallet will love you.

In a push to make Taipei more environmentally friendly, the city has introduced a system called YouBike that allows visitors to rent one of 500 bicycles from 11 locations across the city.
Once travellers have registered for a YouBike card (short-term and long-term cards are available), rental costs NT$40 (US$1 / £0.70) per day or NT$150 (US$4.50 / £2.70) for 5 days; the first 30 minutes of each session is free and then it costs NT$10 for each additional 15 minutes. A NT$3000 deposit is required.
Bicycle rental is completely automated through the YouBike card.
For more information visit www.youbike.com.tw/upage/english.htm.
Photo by Lin1000.tw via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Want to know what to pack up for your next business trip? We've spoken to business travellers from around the world about the suitcases they recommend for business travel and why.
Ranging in price from USD 125/ £75 to USD 900 / £550 there should be something for every kind of business traveller on our list.

So here, without further ado, are the best suitcases for business travellers:
NATE PARKER, NEW YORK
Travels 200,000 - 250,000 miles per year; Suitcase: Tumi's Alpha Classic Garment Bag

I have owned the same Tumi suitcase for 3 years. It is durable, practical and expensive (multiples of what I have paid for any luggage before). However, it has definitely been worth the money as it's proved itself over and over to be long lasting and functional –perfect for business travel.
If I were to replace it I would go either for exactly the same model, or a smaller version of the same. It keeps suits and shirts wrinkle free and is secure if you need to check it in.
I would definitely recommend this suitcase to a friend. I use it bi-weekly and it is very reliable.
Price: USD 495; Size: 45.5cm x 59.5cm x 14cm (HxWxD).
Find out more about Nate's Tumi suitcase.
SARAH MEYER, HONG KONG
Travels 50,000 miles per year; Suitcase: Samsonite Black Label Opto (Tote on Wheels)

I tend to go on short business trips across Asia-Pacific, so the Samsonite Black Label Opto is perfect for my needs. The front part of the case detaches and becomes a laptop bag; the main part fits into the overhead compartment. You get two bags in one, which is pretty neat!
I think it is a pretty standard suitcase / carry on, but it is good for business trips and doesn't either stand out for being too OTT or too scruffy. If it fell apart tomorrow I would probably replace it with something else, just to try out something new, but that doesn't mean I wouldn't recommend it to a friend. My husband uses it for business trips too, and he has also been very happy with it.
Price: £239.78; Size: L44 x H33.5 x W24.5cm; Weight: 3.7kg.
RICHARD ARCHER-PERKINS, SHANGHAI
Travels 250,000 miles per year; Case: Tumi Alpha, Essential Leather Brief

I always travel with a black soft leather Tumi laptop case; I have owned it now for 18 months. It's excellently designed, practical and has useful hidden compartments to store bits and pieces for my computer.
It was definitely worth the money; I use it every day. It is stylish and very well thought out. If it fell apart tomorrow, which I doubt it would, I would replace it with the same Tumi laptop bag. I think it is very secure, it even has a system to track it if it is lost, but I am sure no-one would hand it in – I get too many envious glances when people see me with it!
Price: Approx. USD 495; External Dimensions: 32cm x 40.5cm x 12.75cm (HxWxD); Laptop Compartment Dimensions: 28.5cm x 35cm x 4.5cm (HxWxD).
SIMON HILL, LONDON
Travels 30,000 miles per year; Suitcase: Antler Tronic Z500

My Antler suitcase is practical, reliable and safe. Compared with other similar suitcases I think the price is mid-range. I've owned it for about 3 years, so in my opinion it was definitely worth buying.
I love it because it always turns up! It is very bog standard looks wise so no-one would ever want to steal it. It isn't ideal in terms of keeping my clothes wrinkle-free for meetings, but it is secure and durable and that counts for a lot.
Price: £119; Size: 56 x 36 x 22 cm; Capacity: 64 ltr; Weight: 4 kg.
ELIZABETH FITZWILLIAM, MELBOURNE
Travels 300,000+ miles per year; Suitcase: Mulberry Large Trolley

I am completely in love with my Mulberry suitcase. It is super stylish and perfect travelling across the world (yes, I am in fashion so I guess the suitcase has to be too!). I have had it for years and it has held up incredibly well. If you're in an industry where making a first impression – down to the last detail - is important (even if you're doing something as unglamorous as waiting at the luggage carousel) then I think Mulberry luggage is ideal – it is chic without being faddy, seasonal, or ever going out of style.
I think my suitcase was definitely worth the money – it is just the best on long business trips. If it were to die on me I would replace it with another one just like it. I can't say it keeps my clothes wrinkle free, but then I don't have to wear suits and I have my clothes looked after by the hotel when I reach my destination, so it doesn't really matter.
I would be wary of checking in my suitcase if I weren't a frequent flyer with frequent flyer perks like business class or first class service, because I do get a lot of envious stares when people see me with it. However, it is completely lockable and it is very hard-wearing so I'm sure I am just being overly wary.
I highly recommend this suitcase – it is a classic. I use it so many times per year and it just keeps on going, what more could you ask for when you spend more time travelling for business than you do at home?
Price: £550; Size: 79 x 47 x 27 cm (H x W x D).
JAMES BENNETT, LONDON
Travels 25,000 miles per year; Suitcase: Antler Laser Cabin Suitcase

I use an Antler suitcase when I travel for business. It is best described as solid and stylish. It wasn't very expensive compared with other suitcase brands that business travellers tend to go for, and it was worth the money.
I love it because it is small enough to put in the overhead locker, but if I had to name a flaw I'd point the finger at the lack of a side pocket, which would be useful for carrying documents and my laptop.
This suitcase is very unlikely to break on me, and if it does it is covered by a 7 year warranty which is a great bonus.
The Antler is secure, extremely durable and reliable – a great option for short-haul business travel.
Price: £75; Size: 52 x 38 x 23 cm; Capacity: 38 ltr; Weight: 2.7 kg.
Which suitcase do you use for business travel? We'd love to know what you trust and why.
Check out these tips for how to keep your luggage safe and secure whilst you're on the road.
Photo credit: Luggage by digiart2001 via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Shot of the Day: South Kaibab Trail, Grand Canyon
Posted by Emma Torry on September 04, 2009 at 02:54 PM
We just love this shot that iloho member JavelinaJ submitted to the site earlier. What stunning light and what a breathtaking view of the Grand Canyon's South Kaibab Trail.

Come and check out the shot in all its glory here. Whilst you're at it, why not show off your own summer travel snaps? We'd love to see them!
Cheap Cruising: How to Hit the High Seas for (Much, Much) Less
Posted by Emma Torry on September 03, 2009 at 11:13 AM
Cruising has a reputation as an expensive way to travel, reserved for old folks and young families. But if you live in a port city, it can be a great way to sample the luxury lifestyle and see some exciting ports of call – for less than the price of a train ticket and a hostel.

The cruise industry has been hit hard by the global economic downturn, and that means there are some incredible deals to be had. This May, I headed off on mother-daughter adventure – a 7-night cruise through Alaska for just over $600 each, including all taxes and fees (except tips). In a few weeks, my boyfriend and I are cruising one-way to San Francisco for $240 each – less than the cost of a one-way flight.
Here's what you need to know to get the most out of your cruise dollars:
You'll get the best deal if you live in a departure port. If you have to fly in and add hotel costs, prices start to climb fast. From my home base in Vancouver, BC, I've got easy access to the Alaska and Pacific Coastal routes – check the cruiseline websites to find out if they come by your hometown.
Max out the amount of alcohol you're allowed to bring on board. Meals and entertainment are included on most cruise ships, but drinks are not. Generally, each passenger is allowed to bring one bottle of wine or equivalent onto the ship at the departure port. With two people to a cabin, that gives you two bottles to nurse through the first few days of your cruise at significantly less cost than buying on-board. The catch? You can only drink the wine in your cabin, technically. We had no trouble pouring it into glasses in the cabin and going to a nicer spot on the ship – we just couldn't take our own drinks into the bars or restaurants aboard.
Make your own shore excursions. In Alaska, we hiked, explored old gold-rush historical sites, and did a town walking tour, all without shelling out the big bucks for organizing an outing through the cruise line. For the hike we did in Juneau, our only cost was a $7 bus to the glacier. The cruise line sold day trips to the glacier park for about $80. Use sites like iloho or Tripadvisor to get the inside scoop on what's really worth seeing in each port of call, then arrange it yourself.
Make sneaky meals. Technically you're not supposed to take food out of the dining areas on cruise ships, but you're paying for that buffet feast, whether you eat it or not. Our trick was to take a couple extra rolls, pieces of cheese, packs of peanut butter, and pieces of fruit at breakfast to make ourselves picnic lunches for days when we were off the ship at lunchtime. Bring a couple of ziplock bags to make the sneak easier!
Take advantage of anything free. The ships have loads of free activities, but you'll quickly learn to spot which are worth attending and which are just sales pitches. One of the best, in my opinion, is the art auctions most ships feature. For one thing, you get a free glass of champagne. Plus, you get a chance to look at some really great art, and learn about some big names in the art world from very knowledgeable art auctioneers.

Follow these five tips and you can have a much cheaper cruise vacation than you ever thought possible. And have fun – there's nothing like indulging in a little (cheap) luxury on the high seas.
All pictures by Christina Newberry.
I've been racking my brain about how I can cobble together £6,285 by the 25th February 2010. You see, if I can do it I'll be climbing Morocco's Mount Toubkal with wild man Bear Grylls.

I might be biased as my girlfriends and I are slightly in love with Bear, but this mountain experience from bespoke travel agency Black Tomato really is worth shouting from the top of Toubkal about.
Starting at Tigmi, a luxury boutique hotel just outside Marrakesh at the base of the Atlas Mountains, you'll be whisked to Toubkal's base camp by helicopter, where Bear Grylls will meet you. During a four hour trek to the peak of Mount Toubkal (4,167 metres) Bear will wow you with his survival stories. You get to see the man vs. the wild first hand during the trek back to HQ as Bear demonstrates how to fend for yourself in the great outdoors. After all that excitement you head back to Tigmi to relax for the rest of the weekend.

You don't need to be a hardcore mountain climber to qualify just of reasonable fitness as, according to Black Tomato, the Toubkal summit is "an uphill trek rather than a ropes-and-pulleys vertical climb, so the only equipment you'll be using (apart from snow-proof clothing) will be crampons and your very own muscle power."
The icing on the cake is that you can travel with your other half without them having to come on the hike too; those who prefer a bit of pampering with their panoramic mountain views can tag along on a three-day spa package.
Right, I'm off to begin the hunt for spare change.
PRICE
- £6,285 per person travelling solo. £6,449 for a couple sharing, with one climber and one non-climber. £12,349 for a couple sharing, both climbing (not including flights).
WHEN TO GO
- 25th - 28th February 2010
WHAT'S INCLUDED
- 3 nights half board at Tigmi, airport transfers, one day climbing mount Toubkal with Bear Grylls, celebratory dinner and drinks.
For more information about the Bear Grylls Experience, contact Black Tomato by email on readytowear@blacktomato.co.uk or call +44 (0)845 224 7416 and ask for a member of the Ready to Wear team.
Photo Credits: Mount Toubkal Panoramic by timmo; Yebel Toubkal by gonzalo saenz de santa maria poullet via Flickr (Creative Commons).
First Class Honours for B&B University Accommodation in the UK
Posted by Emma Torry on August 27, 2009 at 03:36 PM
Hotel prices in the UK currently stand at 13% above the European average*. Though this statistic doesn't come as much of a surprise it's still beat-the-system exciting when you stumble across a unique UK accommodation experience that won't break the bank.

For travellers visiting England, the cities of London, Oxford, Cambridge, Durham, Canterbury and Newcastle all feature on the typical travel itinerary; a way to ensure your stay in these destinations is truly memorable - without having to cough up the average of £116 per night - is to book into a University room.
Pick from historic colleges in Oxford and Cambridge, plus the Universities of Newcastle, Nottingham, Leicester, Kent in Canterbury, Durham, Sheffield, University College London, Warwick, and Plymouth. Rooms are clean and many have en-suite bathrooms, internet access and power showers.
Indulge any Brideshead Revisited or Chariots of Fire fantasies you might have and from £40 per night stay in Oxford colleges such as Jesus, Balliol and Trinity College, or from £34 per night in Cambridge colleges including Christ's College, St. Catherine's and Corpus Christi. You can follow in the footsteps of famous real-life and literary Oxbridge alumni and eat in college halls, wander through the quads and college gardens, try your hand at punting, and drink in the college bar.

Things really have changed since I slept across the UK on friends' University bedrooms floors. Even as an impoverished student I would have happily paid from £28 a night to forego the sleeping bag on the cold, hard floor experience.
For more information on booking University bed and breakfast accommodation visit www.universityrooms.co.uk.
Photo Credits: Bodleian Montage by Daveybot; Oxford Punts by slack12.
*Source: trivago Hotel Price Index (tHPI), 6 August 2009.
Travel Photography Tips, Ho Chi Minh City: Where To Get The Best Shots Of Saigon
Posted by Emma Torry on August 18, 2009 at 10:54 AM
By Kate Harris
Motorbikes, motorbikes, motorbikes. If a single image can represent a city, for Saigon it is the motorbike. It would be possible to fill an entire photo album with pictures of them alone; a motorbike as a school bus, a motorbike as a grocer's cart, a motorbike as a removal van. On the roads they flow like water through the city, churning like rapids at busy intersections. On the pavements they stand in endless metal rows of makeshift parking lots.

Motorbikes, however, are not the only things to capture the eye, or the imagination, in this city. Spectacular structures and scenes are woven together to reveal vivid impressions of Saigon past and present. Remnants of the Chinese and French occupations form the backdrop to the energetic hurly burly of this modern metropolis.
Two birds with one stone
The square at the top of Dong Khoi, one of District 1's most prominent streets, is an ideal place to get photographing. A central location, it includes two of the most notable architectural legacies of the French colonial era. The Notre Dame Cathedral, built towards the end of the 19th Century using bricks transported from Marseilles, stands at the north-east side of the square. In a city where open space is at a premium, make the most of the plot of grass in front the church to capture an image of this imposing structure.

Rotating ninety degrees to the right, is a similarly beautiful French structure, which at first glance appears to be a railway station but is in fact Ho Chi Minh City's Central Post Office. Under a dome shaped roof, individual wooden phone booths, adorned with clocks displaying times across the world, evoke the feeling of a black and white movie played out on cine reel. If you venture to the back of the post office, you will see a painting of Ho Chi Minh.
Located at the top of Dong Khoi. Notre Dame Cathedral: Han Thuyen. (The front gate may be locked. Also try the entrance on the south west side of the basilica.) Central Post Office: 2 Cong Xa Paris. Open 7am – 9.30pm.
Hard to miss
You won't be the only person photographing the People's Committee Building. This central landmark is right at the heart of downtown Saigon and hard to avoid. The building was originally constructed at the beginning of the 20th Century as the Hôtel de Ville (city hall) and it maintains its ornate colonial edifice. The interior, however, is off limits, so keep your snaps to the outside only.

People's Committee Building, located at the north-west end of Nguyen Hue.
Art's fine by me
Only a few hundred yards from the hectic Ben Thanh Market, the Fine Arts Museum is cloaked in an aura of calm and instantly transports you to colonial Saigon. Shuttered windows adorn a faded yellow façade, contrasted with blue ceramic detailing. The museum itself is not particularly notable for its art, but the interior does offer some interesting shots of its wrought iron staircase, tiled floors and the courtyard that the building encircles. Alternatively, you can wander around to the back of the museum (where you can stroll through some contemporary art galleries) and walk into the courtyard through the back entrance.

Fine Arts Museum, 97A Pho Duc Chinh. Open 9am – 4.30pm.
Gilded glory
Cholon, Saigon's Chinatown, straddles districts 5 and 6. It has the highest concentration of pagodas in the city and is well worth a visit with your camera. Quan Am Pagoda is one of the most notable and is popular with both Vietnamese and Chinese Buddhists. Arrays of colours greet you at the gatehouse, and inside, shafts of sunlight bounce off the heavily gilded altar, statues and wall decorations. Look out for the ornate panels just next to the entrance door, fashioned in gold and lacquer and be sure to walk behind the main altar to the rear courtyard where there is a statue to Quan Am, the goddess of mercy.

Cholon has a different feel to the rest of the city, and the best way to explore it is on foot, absorbing the sights and smells and unearthing the vast array of items on sale from fabric (see below) and handmade scissors to Chinese herbs and lion masks.
Quan Am Pagoda, 12 Lao Tu, Cholon.
The story lies within
Cha Tam Church, built at the turn of the 19th Century, stands in a courtyard so languid and picturesque that it feels a world away from hectic downtown Saigon. In fact, it played an integral part to the city's history when President Ngo Dinh Diem and his brother Ngo Dinh Nhu fled to it for refuge from an attempted coup on 2 November 1963. Upon surrendering, they were escorted from the church under orders of the coup leaders but the soldiers executed the brothers before arrival back in central Saigon.
Cha Tam Church, 25 Hoc Lac, at the western end of Tran Hung Dao, Cholon.
In a city teaming with commerce, almost every street offers an array of wares appealing to the shutterfly. Here's a selection to seek out:
Well heeled
Le Thi Hong Gam, the street adjacent to the Fine Arts Museum, displays a sea of shoes, from sandals to trainers, work shoes to flip-flops. Other leather goods such as belts and wallets lie nestled in between these knock-offs of well known brands. This street doesn't have the bustle of the market, but is impressive for its sheer quantity of goods.
I want to ride my bicycle

If the road isn't full of motorbikes, then it's full of motorbike parts. Pham Huu Chi in the Cholon district of Ho Chi Minh City is a grease monkey's and photographer's dream. The street is covered with everything you could need to build or repair a bike. Wing mirrors dangle from shop ceilings, lights are heaped in piles by the doorway, spare tyres stack up on the pavement and there is a constant racket of clanging metal.
Like the cut of your cloth
The rolls of fabric on sale in Saigon offer myriad photo opportunities. In Tan Dinh Market, cloth merchants sit atop of mountains of material, or perch on small stools eating noodles in the tiny gangways between each stall. The colourful silks in Ben Thanh Market brighten the dimness of this vast covered market built in 1914. But beware, by far the most tourist savvy of the markets, you may want to think twice before taking your camera out. Pop outside to see the main entrance with its belfry and clock, which has become a symbol of Saigon. To view the fabrics in the natural light, journey to Nguyen Trai and Do Ngoc Thanh streets in Cholon. Wait for a store-owner to unravel a spool and you can capture an unending parade of shapes and colours.
Tan Dinh Market: Hai Ba Trung, Walk 200 yards north-west along Hai Ba Trung from the intersection with Vo Thi Sau; Ben Thanh Market: intersection of Le Loi, Ham Nghi, Tran Hung Dao and Le Lai.
Knick Knack anyone?

War memorabilia abounds in Saigon and there are a variety of places to go to peruse for GI Zippos and combat boots. Dan Sinh Market, also known as The War Memorabilia Market, houses all of this and more and you have to fight through the busy networks of hardware stalls to track down your goods. The more photogenic option is the nearby street, Le Cong Kieu. This street has a large number of shops opening onto the road, offering an eclectic mix of artefacts and bric a brac. Old money, ceramic vases, gramophone players all jostle for space. If you switch from taking pictures to taking pieces, be careful, as not all of what is for sale is authentic.
Dan Sinh Market, 104 Yersin.
We like it fresh
The mountains of fresh food piled high on carts, or transported on motorbikes make excellent photo opportunities and there's no shortage of markets and street restaurants to snap away at. Most central is Ben Thanh Market, which is also surrounded by a hubbub of food stalls. For some more open-air markets, take a wander along the streets leading off Nguyen Trai in Cholon. Down here, you can also weave in and out of the stalls selling traditional Chinese herbs around Trieu Quang Phuc Street.
And finally... time to unwind
Ho Chi Minh City does not have many parks to boast of, and yet there is an unmistakeable feeling of tropical greenery in some areas of the city, most notably along the banks of the Saigon River. Perhaps the most relaxing way to record the river, and tune your zoom lens onto the vibrant pink bougainvillea leaves, is to take a taxi out to District 2, known as An Phu. Visit the waterside bar and restaurant The Deck for a sundowner and snap away in peaceful seclusion.
The Deck Restaurant, 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, District 2, HCMC; Tel: +84 (0) 8344 6632.
Photo Credits: Photos by Kate Harris, apart from 'The Notre Dame Cathedral in Saigon' by Quang Minh (YILKA) and 'Hotel de Ville de Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam' by yeowatzup.
'21' Club: Quintessential New York Dining Experience
Posted by Emma Torry on August 17, 2009 at 10:18 AM
Tucked between the skyscrapers of Manhattan's Midtown sits a brownstone building that, during the Prohibition era, was an outlawed speakeasy. Today, it's '21' Club: a celebrated bar and restaurant. But the cheeky speakeasy vibe lingers from 1930, the year '21' opened, and comes across the moment you cross under the jockey statues awning the entrance. This is a place that mixes gourmet dining with soul.

The 'old New York' location is historic too, and the staff are charming. Although it's a high-end restaurant, wood-panelled with red leather seating, the atmosphere is friendly and fun without a hint of pretension. The clientèle is also a mix: from celebrities, to groups of executives, to couples and families.
'21' Club has a heavyweight history: as well as countless celebrity guests, it has been featured in more movies than any other New York restaurant, from Wall Street to an episode of Sex and the City.
The menu strongly favours East Coast cuisine such as Maine Lobster, Vermont Lamb and soft shell crab. There are also the classics like the 21 burger, shrimp cocktail and steaks.
'We try to stay "true American"', says head chef John Greeley. 'That's a bit of everything: East Coast, Southern and Low Country cooking, New England... We use local products, follow the seasons and don't like to ship proteins far. That way they're ultra fresh, the vegetables too.'
At 21, there's both the main restaurant, the Bar Room, and a lounge for drinks and light bites like burgers and crab cake, with a wine list of young reds and whites. The wine list in the Bar Room is vast and justly won the Wine Spectator Grand Award in 2008.

I went for the tasting menu to see what 21 Club has to offer. It started off well with an exquisitely fresh tomato gazpacho, creatively jazzed-up with poached shrimp. Next came chilled Maine lobster on a light asparagus terrine. It was complemented elegantly with a glass of Albariño Burgans.

After the soft shell crabs, and in keeping with the season, came sautéed Halibut with roasted oysters. The Halibut was as tender as the summer day is long. It came on a bed of corn and very smoky bacon.
The main courses rounded off with a fine filet of beef. Desserts started with the chef's fruit soup and blackberry sorbet. Then came the tasting menu's apex of indulgence: Manjari Bombe with a hazelnut brûlée centre and chocolate ice cream. It tasted as good as it sounds, and was even decorated with edible gold leaf. A glass of raisiny Madeira Bual Cossart-Gordon and petit fours brought the intricate desserts to a rounded close.
21's tasting menu of seven courses costs US$90, or US$150 with specially chosen wines. Most of the main courses on the à la carte menu cost around US$40, but until October 31st the restaurant is offering a three-course, recession-crushing set menu that costs US$24.07 for lunch and US$35 for dinner.
I asked the head chef what an international traveller with one night in New York should try from the menu. 'I would order the mixed grill because it showcases American game', says Greeley. 'And a steak because most European beef is grass-fed and leaner. Ours, being corn fed and aged, has a unique flavor and richness. As regards seafood, the halibut with razor clams, because you don't see either too often outside the States.'
At '21' Club - an intimate space with friendly yet polished service - American cuisine, American ingredients and American charm provide the quintessential New York experience.
'21' Club, 21 West 52nd Street, New York, New York 10019; Tel: +1 (800) 721 CLUB; Web: www.21club.com.
For opening hours and dress code, please check the website.
Photos courtesy of Orient-Express.
A Week in Jordan: Two wives, "not-quite-Wadi Rum" and a human-sized hot water bottle
Posted by Emma Torry on August 13, 2009 at 05:10 PM
By Ross Bowers
Morocco made me slightly hesitant to go on another holiday in an Arab country – the happy snaps look idyllic, but they don't reveal the heat, hassle, snorting and swindling going on just out of shot. Nevertheless, I was intrigued by Petra and the Dead Sea and thought a trip to Jordan was an opportunity not to be missed.

Travelling with two pretty girls added to my trepidation about heading back to North Africa as I adopted the self-aggrandising role of guardian of the two blondes.
'Would you like to buy a necklace for your tall wife?'
'No thank you very much'
'How about for your short wife?'
Confused and envious eyes followed me everywhere and I was on red alert for phlegm assaults, pick pockets and devious taxi drivers. I was worrying unnecessarily – the girls are tougher than me, the Jordanian people are kind and honest, and the country is clean and well organised. The best bit about travelling to Jordan is that most of the sights can be covered in a week; the tourist circuit is fairly well trodden so getting around is easy and there are always people to share transport with.
We landed in the bustling metropolis of Amman, spending a couple of nights there whilst visiting the ancient ruins at Jerash before hotfooting it down to Petra along the King's Highway, a rich chain of historical and archaeological sites. We stopped at Madaba, the 'City of Mosaics', Mount Nebo (which, according to the final chapter of Deuteronomy, is where Moses was given a view of the Promised Land), and the fortified town and castle of Karak.

Petra alone makes the trip to Jordan worthwhile; one of the seven wonders of the modern world, it is a vast city, carved into the red rock by the Nabataeans more than 2,000 years ago. It was an important hub for the silk, spice and other trade routes that linked China, India and southern Arabia with Egypt, Syria, Greece and Rome.
Since Petra was featured in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, the locals have gone a little Indiana crazy with most stalls offering some sort of Harrison Ford souvenirs. But it is hard not to be transported to another era as speeding horses gallop past, weaving their way through colonnaded streets to the treasury, temples, sacrificial altars and eventually the Monastery up 800 rock cut steps. Camels and donkeys provide every opportunity for some amusing photos along the way.

Next stop was the desert and towering rock formations of Wadi Rum - Lawrence of Arabia's headquarters during the Arab Revolt against the Ottomans (1917 – 1918). Here we experienced our first bit of swindling.

Wadi Rum itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is actually a fenced reserve. Several tour operators however, take you just outside of the site, put you up in sub-standard tented camps and drive you around in jeeps pretending that you are in the real Wadi Rum. Thankfully they are so convincing that we enjoyed the experience in blissful ignorance – only realising later that we had visited 'not-quite-Wadi Rum'. Our suspicions were only aroused when we realised that we were the only guests staying in our tented camp.
The next day we witnessed the breathtaking beauty of the Dana Nature Reserve (where the Feynan Eco Lodge and project is excellent) en route to two nights at the Marriott Dead Sea Resort and Spa for the luxury finale to the holiday.

The lowest point on earth, the Dead Sea, is a marvel – the health benefits of the sea itself and the mud are well known and we quickly covered ourselves in mud and floated whilst reading a newspaper. Hours of amusement: until you get sea water in your eyes.
I tried out the most unique Dead Sea treatment I could find, a mud / wrap / flotation, which turned out to be the worst hour of my life. I was greeted by a large Jordanian man, given a pathetic pair of paper undies, covered in mud, wrapped in cling film and then engulfed in a human-sized hot water bottle with only my head sticking out for air. Large Jordanian man then left so that I could 'relax' / suffer from acute claustrophobia. It was so hot that the mud and sweat dripped in to my eyes and since I was in a cling film straight-jacket there wasn't much I could do about it.
After that experience I decided to stick to eating and drinking. Just about any cuisine is available in Jordan, and if you can avoid the drive through Starbucks there are some great dishes to try out. I particularly enjoyed the Mansaf, which is a Bedouin dish consisting of rice, a rich broth made from dry sour milk (jameed), and either lamb or chicken. Simple, but tasty.
On our final morning, the maître d' welcomed us to breakfast with a cheerful 'It's nice to be here', um – I think you mean 'It's nice to have you here', but it was nice to be there - Jordan is an amazing country where you can relax and enjoy a real sense of adventure and cultural learning at the same time.
Photos by Ross Bowers, except Bedouin Man by hazy jenius, Wadi Rum by Tbass Effendi and Dead Sea Reflection by Mr. Kris via Flickr.
Tips for Travellers: What's Hot in London this August and September
Posted by Emma Torry on August 12, 2009 at 02:53 PM
Heading to London this month or next and itching to know what's cool in the UK capital? You've come to the right place.
The all-knowing concierge team from Claridges, the Connaught and the Berkeley, aka "the city's best-informed residents", share their advice on what to do and where to go if you're planning a trip to London.
AUGUST
Drink...
Tini: The latest venture from the team behind Whisky Mist, Mahiki and the Punchbowl is glamorous cocktail bar Tini in the ever chic South Kensington. Just a stones throw away from Boujis and Mamilanji, this new haunt should prove just as popular with the social elite.
Tini, 87-89 Walton Street, South Kensington, London, SW3 2HP: +44 (0)20 7589 8558.
Eat...
Lutyens: This summer Sir Terence Conran proves once again that he is a master of the dining room-come-bar-come-members club. Hot on the heals of his last opening, the Boundary in Shoreditch, the wily old fox has done it again with this sublime spot on Fleet Street. You'd better book now because this one could be popular: classic French cuisine with a dash of Irish flair.

Lutyens, 85 Fleet Street, London, EC4Y 1AE; +44 (0)20 7583 8385.
Party...
Michael Jackson Tribute Concert: Following the tragic passing of Michael Jackson the Tribute Concert will be going ahead at London's O2 Arena on Saturday 29th August. Who will be performing? Well that is a closely guarded secret, however I can assure you it is going to be huge! Email me if you want tickets on cbogni@the-connaught.co.uk
SEPTEMBER
Eat...
Terroirs: At first glance, Terroirs seems like just another conventional attempt to transplant a traditional French bistro to the mean streets of central London. But look beyond the old advertising posters and wooden chairs, and you realise that there's something rather special going on here. The reasonably priced food combines creativity with a respect for full-on flavours and impeccable sourcing. Oh, and the wine is ok too!

Terroirs, 5 William IV Street WC2N 4DW; +44 (0)20 7036 0660.
Chill...
Spa Illuminata: Stressed? Worn out? Just need a little bit of pampering? This is quite simply the best day spa in London. Whether it's a manicure or a full body scrub you will be treated like royalty in this temple to relaxation.
Spa Illuminata, 63 South Audley Street, London, W1K 2QS; +44 (0)20 7499 7777.
Look...
Jeff Koons at the Serpentine: Inflatable toys? Check. Popeye? Check. Baffeling kitch? Check. The New York native and enfant terrible of the art world has bought this blockbuster exhibition to London. September 13th is the last day, so catch this one while you can.

Serpentine Gallery, Kensington Gardens, London, W2 3XA; +44 (0)20 7402 6075.
Luxury London hotels Claridge's, the Connaught, and the Berkeley are part of the Maybourne Hotel Group. For more information visit www.maybourne.com.
Photo Credits: Lutyens courtesy of Lutyens Restaurant, Bar & Cellar Rooms; Terroirs by Ewan-M, Jeff Coons Popeye Series by Chris Pattison.
We've just uploaded The Business Traveller's Guide to Macau, check it out here.

The new guide is designed to help busy business travellers to Macau know how and where to wow clients and colleagues. It includes tips on where to stay, eat, drink, shop, spa, gamble and the best places to experience Macau.
We hope you like it - do leave your comments.
Iguanas, Candlelight, and Skinny Dipping: Rustic Luxury in Tulum, Mexico
Posted by Emma Torry on August 07, 2009 at 12:13 PM
The Internet can be a fickle ally when it comes to planning adventures. You can find amazing deals, but you can also get yourself into hot water by booking with a shady company or hotel. Or, you can have your heart broken bit by bit as you discover perfect place after perfect place to stay that just happen to be way beyond your travel budget.
This last scenario happened to me when I came across the website for Azulik, an "ecoresort" in Tulum, Mexico. The concept is magical – large, private cabanas overlooking the roaring surf, with soaker tubs on every balcony. At Azulik the eco-resort concept means no electricity, no phone, and no air conditioning, but the indoor and outdoor tubs promise plenty of hot water. And you can summon a staff member to take your room service order by raising a flag at your cabana's front door. The online pictures are stunning. I was smitten.

The only problem? Rooms start at US$325 per night. On a trip that was built around hostel stays and self-catering apartments at a tenth of that price, Azulik was simply out of reach. I cursed at the picture of a woman lounging in an outdoor soaking tub, overlooking the sea below.

And then – oh, and then – I noticed the small link on Azulik's homepage pointing to current specials. Among other deals, I found the one that would cure my heartbreak – 60% off regular rates for booking a room within 24 hours of arrival. With a month in Mexico and no set plans of where I had to be and when, this option was workable. Yes!
Soon, my partner and I found ourselves settling in for three nights in the honeymoon suite. Regularly priced at US$350 per night, the 60% discount brought it to US$140 per night: still not budget accommodation, but within the realm of the reasonable. With a king-sized bed draped in a lovely mosquito net, plus hanging beds and soaker tubs carved from large trees both inside and outside, it was stunning. I got myself into that soaking tub as soon as I could – now I was the woman in the picture I had seen online. Bliss!
As we eased into the vibe of the place, I took advantage of the free morning yoga classes, got used to evenings lit only by candlelight, and continued to be blown away by our good fortune. I even came to appreciate the iguanas who were on constant watch on the cliffs below (except the one who skittered into the room to lick jam off the remains of a breakfast tray). As I relaxed, I started to warm up to the idea of leaving my swimsuit behind and hitting the beach below.

Ah, yes – Azulik has a clothing-optional beach (it is, in fact, a clothing-optional resort). Raised in a straight-laced protestant home, I never pictured myself frolicking naked in the waves (a long-time Vancouver resident, I've never even ventured near Wreck Beach, our local clothing-optional haunt). But as Mexican time took hold and the eco-resort atmosphere seeped into my soul, I found myself throwing caution to the wind. In the crashing surf, bare as the day I was born, looking up at our cabana on the clifftop, I realised – life is simple; life is good.
IF YOU GO
Azulik is the most luxurious of three properties that make up EcoTulum Resorts and Spa. Copal offers mid-range accommodations, and Zahra caters to the budget traveller. All have direct beach access. Copal and Azulik are clothing-optional.
Where: Tulum, Mexico.
Cost: High season (Nov. 15 to April 30 and July 15 – Aug. 31): US$40 per night for a basic no-bath cabana at Zahra up to US$350 per night for the luxurious honeymoon suite at Azulik. Online specials can save you 20% – 60%.
Contacts: The resort's main site, www.ecotulum.com, offers information on all three properties. For individual properties, visit www.azulik.com, www.cabanascopal.com and www.zahra.com.mx.
Photo Credits: Images by Christina Newberry, except 'Azulik, Doce' by jason_chinn via Flickr.
By Connie Motz
In the Caribbean, tucked underneath Cuba and only 100 square miles in total, lie the three Cayman Islands – Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac, and Little Cayman.
The Cayman Islands maintain a high standard of living and are known for their abundance of white sand beaches and endless water sports, including snorkelling and world class scuba diving.
With many shore excursion options available for the first time visitor, it can visiting the Caymans be overwhelming but there is a certain draw in being able to say you've been to Hell and back.

Located mid-island on Grand Cayman, Hell is a town with hardly any inhabitants – there are a few souvenir stores and the all important post office; nothing like sending a card back home from Hell just to prove you've survived.
Shore excursions label Hell as a town "featuring a pre-historical rock formation that some think Hell must surely look like." A viewing platform leads visitors to see shards of black limestone jutting out of the lifeless darkened ground as if it were the remains of a volcanic hell fire.
The ancient geological formation of jagged rocks is surrounded by dark and gloomy waters presenting an ominous, almost sinister scene. Educational guides explain that the rocks are a combination of iron shore (a type of dolomite) and limestone estimated at being 1.5 million years old.

The razor-sharp blackened rock appears to be volcanic in nature but is only coated in dark algae. The somewhat horrific landscape of Hell is framed by lush green mangroves and palm trees reminding visitors that the true beauty of the island still exists.
Everyone is invited to take the token tacky tourist picture with the cardboard cut-out devil. Postcards and other souvenirs are available for purchase with sayings like "I've been to Hell and back" and "HFD – Hell Fire Department."
Many visitors to Grand Cayman will experience a trip to Hell and will live to tell the tale.
Photo Credits: Welcome to Hell by J. Stephen Conn, Hell's Rocks by Connie Motz.
I love a good list, and National Geographic Traveler has come up trumps with the "50 Books for Summer"; whether you're going to Australia or Venezuela, there will be something for you here.
Here's a preview of the top 10.

1. Nepal: The Snow Leopard, by Peter Matthiessen (1978).
NatGeo says: Matthiessen is a multi-task traveler. In this book—one of many fine ones he's written—he and zoologist friend George Schaller trek through Nepal in physical search of Himalayan blue sheep and the rare snow leopard, and in spiritual search (Matthiessen is a Zen Buddhist) of the Lama of Shey at the ancient Buddhist shrine on Crystal Mountain. Enlightenment, anyone? Buy 'The Snow Leopard' now.
2. Patagonia: In Patagonia, by Bruce Chatwin (1977).
NatGeo says: Let's face it: Chatwin was weird, but brilliantly so. This book, launched around a childhood fancy for his grandma's scrap of giant sloth skin, takes him to the "uttermost part of the Earth," from Rio Negro to the Chilean town of Punta Arenas. Buy 'In Patagonia' now.
3. The Arctic: Arctic Dreams: Imagination and Desire in a Northern Landscape by Barry Lopez (1986).
NatGeo says: Lopez is dreamy, and his meditation on the "last frontiers" of the Arctic is as much about natural history as it is about human landscapes of imagination, desire, and progress. This National Book Award-winner is based on his travels throughout the North, including Baffin Island, Canada's Northwest Territories, and Greenland. Buy 'Arctic Dreams' now.
4. Hong Kong: Hong Kong, by Jan Morris (1989).
NatGeo says: The ever-piquant Morris masterfully unravels the enigma that is Hong Kong, from its Sino-British bipolarity to its megalithic economic structure, its hypercrowded urban landscape to its surprisingly under-explored nature reserves. Buy 'Hong Kong' now.
5. Australia: In a Sunburned Country, by Bill Bryson (2000).
NatGeo says: Bryson would probably be the perfect desert-island companion—an acerbic naturalist and historian who just can't keep an absurd moment or thought to himself. His Australia story teems with toxic caterpillars and ridiculous place-names ("Tittybong," for one). Buy 'In a Sunburned Country' now.
6. Venezuela: In Trouble Again: A Journey Between the Orinoco and the Amazon, by Redmond O'Hanlon (1988).
NatGeo says: Here's where travel becomes, perhaps, too adventurous: Thrill-seeking, hilarious O'Hanlon takes a four-month river trip and trek in the jungles of Venezuela, a buggy, shadowy, prehistoric-seeming netherworld. The result? An illuminating diary of the jungle's wildlife and people. Buy 'In Trouble Again: A Journey Between Orinoco and the Amazon' now.
7. Paris: A Moveable Feast, by Ernest Hemingway (1964).
NatGeo says: "This is how Paris was in the early days when we were very poor and very happy," recollects Hemingway in this vivid memoir of 1920s Paris, a metropolis brimming with creative types and revolutionary ideas. Buy 'A Moveable Feast' now.
8. China: The River at the Center of the World: A Journey Up the Yangtze, and Back in Chinese Time, by Simon Winchester (1996).
NatGeo says: Historian Winchester seems to know everything, but he's such an engaging raconteur you can hardly begrudge him his smarts. Here he travels the 3,434-mile (5,526-kilometer)Yangtze River, reflecting on the historic importance of the river and the social straits in which the Chinese now find themselves. Buy 'The River at the Center of the World: A Journey Up the Yangtze, and Back in Chinese Time' now.
9. U.S.: Travels with Charley: In Search of America, by John Steinbeck (1961).
NatGeo says: "When I was very young and the urge to be someplace else was on me, I was assured by mature people that maturity would cure this itch," Steinbeck begins. The itch in question went unscratched until, at 58, he launched a road trip from Maine to California—accompanied by his poodle, Charley. The America he discovers surprises both himself and his readers. Buy 'Travels with Charley in Search of America' now.
10. Hungary: Valeria's Last Stand, by Marc Fitten (2009).
NatGeo says: This stripped-down modern day fairy tale depicts Zivatar, a fictional village in Hungary, as a place where not much new happens — until one fateful day when the town grump, 68-year-old Valeria, sees the elderly village potter as if for the first time, and is thunderstruck with love. Much of the charm of this tale lies in Fitten's portrayal of Zivatar, a place so far off the beaten track that German tanks (during WWII), Russian tanks (during the 1956 revolution), and even the modern highway all ignore it. Buy 'Valeria's Last Stand' now.
See the full list at traveler.nationalgeographic.com.
Photo Credit: Rest in Peace by Randy Son Of Robert via Flickr (Creative Commons).
The Apartment at The Connaught: London Luxury Hits New New Heights
Posted by Emma Torry on July 29, 2009 at 05:20 PM
If you're aiming for the pinnacle of London luxury next time you travel to The Big Smoke, check out The Connaught hotel's hot new offering, The Apartment.

Designed by David Collins and located on the top floor of The Connaught, The Apartment mixes art, culture and literature to create the feel of a private collector's home. The space comprises of a double height sitting-room, dining room, a master-bedroom with a dressing room and en-suite marble bathroom, a guest bedroom with en suite bathroom, and two landscaped decked terraces with views over the rooftops of Mayfair.

David Collins said he intended to create "an iconic, unique home from home". The Apartment is design for "a discerning client: well travelled, informed and with an appreciation of design and the art of living. It is a private place for a chosen few and a very personal design statement".
Distinctive touches in The Apartment include a library of twentieth century novels, art history books and rare volumes; antique and contemporary artworks; lilac leather lined cabinetry; a bespoke card table; a four poster bed; a custom designed white marble fireplace and a capsule collection of Guerlain beauty products.

Fashionistas can brief The Connaught to scour the neighbouring designer shops for goodies and have them waiting in the dressing room prior to arrival. Foodies and hosts-with-the-most can have their personal Connaught butler arrange a private dinner party, with menus specially designed by two-Michelin star chef Hélène Darroze.
The Apartment's rates are upon request so you can bet your bottom dollar luxury this serious has a price tag to match.
The Connaught, Carlos Place, London W1K 2AL; Tel: +44 (0)207 499 7070, Web: www.the-connaught.co.uk.
Silence is Golden at L'Apothiquaire Spa, Ho Chi Minh City
Posted by Emma Torry on July 27, 2009 at 10:52 AM
By Kate Harris
No matter what brings you to Ho Chi Minh City, be it a weekend getaway or a six month backpacking trip, you'll have slurped your way through one too many bowls of delicious Pho; you'll have lugged a new suitcase back to your hotel, loaded with exquisite lacquer that you just couldn't resist; you'll have sunk a couple of rocket fuel coffees to keep you going through the museums and your heartbeat is still racing from crossing the road. In short, it's time for a break. It's time for a trip to L'Apothiquaire.

L'Apothiquaire is a spa and retreat tucked away down a side street in District 3. As you step off the pavement and walk down a tree lined pathway, the sound of motorbike horns fading behind you, you are greeted by an almost fairytale scene: a white colonial French building stands with its doors thrown open in welcome and next to it, an arc of pink bougainvillea bends gracefully over a serene swimming pool. On the inside of the front door a plaque is nailed to the wall. It reads 'Silence is Golden.' This is your refuge for the next few hours.
As its name suggests, L'Apothiquaire is a spa that prescribes products and treatments developed from natural ingredients, all of which are made and tested in France. A quick introduction to some of the products feels something akin to a chemistry lesson as you listen to a roll call of familiar ingredients but all of them used for unfamiliar effect. If you're feeling an uncomfortable layer of traffic fumes clinging obstinately to your slightly sweaty face, you might chose a facial with a cleanser developed from lemon (anti-bacterial), Pilosella (anti-fungal) and Rosemary and Thyme (anti-septic). All the products are elegantly packaged for sale, so if you're planning on making the most of Saigon's nightlife, you might want to consider purchasing their best selling 'Contour des Yeux' ($34, 15ml) to 'diminish dark circles and puffiness.'
If choosing between a purifying facial and a dry skin facial sounds too much like hard work, then there is a menu of less complicated treatments to chose from. You can wear off those fresh spring rolls with an anti-fat massage, try something new with a mud body wrap or just kick off your dusty flip-flops and collapse into a chair for a foot massage. All of these chairs are a surprising bright pink, and, coupled with swathes of purple velvet curtains they set a theatrical tone for your pampering. One room, designed to accommodate group bookings, has eight dazzling mock regency chairs laid out as if you're being treated in the court of Louis XIV. A royal service indeed.
For those of you with some caffeine still to burn, there is the top-floor studio where a range of classes are on offer including Yoga, T'ai Chi and Qi Gong. A session in here and you're now all set with toned skin and stretched limbs – or even stretched skin and toned limbs – and ready to head back into the city. It won't be long before your skin will be besieged by sunshine or air-conditioning, but at least you gave it a couple of hours respite.
Book in advance at: La Maison de L'Apothiquaire, 64A Truong Dinh Street, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: +848 3932 5181 / 3932 5082; Web: www.lapothiquaire.com.
Additional location at: L'Apothiquaire Artisan Beauté, 61-63 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: +848 3822 1218.
Travel Photography Tips, Beijing: Where To Get The Best Shots Of The City
Posted by Emma Torry on July 21, 2009 at 05:22 PM
Beijing must rank as one of the world's best cities for shutterbugs. From world-famous sights like the Forbidden City, with its vermilion walls and brocade-like golden eaves, to the grey muted tones of the city's hutong alleys where locals sit and watch the world cycle by, Beijing's colours and contrasts are there for the taking.
But while travel photographers seek to capture the essence of traditional Beijing – and watching the sun set on the Forbidden City from the summit of Jingshan Park is unbeatable – don't overlook the best of the new, from the Egg - the futuristic and austere looking National Centre for the Performing Arts near Tiananmen Square - to the quirky and twisted CCTV Building, now bordered by the burnt out remains of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel which was set on fire by fireworks in February. The burnt out shell might not be pretty, but photographic? Definitely.
These tips aim to help photography loving travellers and travel loving photographers come home armed with the best Beijing shots possible. If a picture can paint a thousand words, imagine what a really good picture can do…

THE TRADITIONAL
The Lama Temple: The Lama Temple is the Beijing's biggest Buddhist temple and it is splendidly atmospheric. The complex, which is made up of brightly coloured courtyards, prayer halls and statues, is experiencing a resurgence in popularity, and the contrast between mini-skirted women with Louis Vuitton bags burning incense watched by chanting shaven-haired monks is worth a few shots. The best time to head here is first thing in the morning or just before it shuts at 4.30pm.
12 Yonghegong Dajie, Dongcheng district. Tel: +86 10 6404 4499; Open daily 9 – 4.30pm; Nearest subway: Lama Temple.

Confucius Temple: About 50 metres north of the Lama Temple is this quiet but impressive temple which commemorates Confucius, China's best-known philosopher. First built in 1302, the complex has been knocked down and renovated throughout its history and while there are plenty of un-renovated gently fading buildings, the newly painted buildings are bright and inviting. The temple's courtyard is full of stele, commemorating the scholars that passed the imperial exam during the Qing, Ming and part of the Yuan dynasties: unfortunately you cannot read the characters on the stele anymore because of weathering. This temple receives relatively few visitors, so if you need a break from the crowds but want some shots of imperial architecture, head here.
13 Guozijian Jie, Dongcheng district. Tel: +86 10 8402 7224; Open daily 9 -5pm; Nearest Subway: Lama Temple.
Beijing's Hutongs (around the Drum and Bell Towers): Just north of the square between these two towers is a maze of historic Qing dynasty alleys where you're near guaranteed to get that hutong money shot. Think peeling paint, old men playing checkers, people bicycling by... Look out for Doufuchi Hutong where Mao Zedong used to live, before taking a left onto Baochao Hutong. The charm of the area is finding it: you have to navigate yourself round winding lanes and will probably encounter more than one dead-end, but who cares? Just watch out for the rickshaw riders who power round corners at speed just as you're focusing your shot.
North of Drum and Bell Towers, Gulou Dajie, Dongcheng district; Nearest Subway: Gulou.
THE NEW

The Egg: Ahead of the 2008 Olympics, Beijing's authorities added some architectural spice with the unveiling of the National Centre for Performing Arts mere metres from Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. Some absolutely hate the building, and it certainly stands out in the area for being more space-age than Stalinist. Designed by French architect Paul Andreu, the building steals the limelight from the two historical and political symbols of the capital and while few seem to actually go into the building to see a performance, there are always lots of photographers capturing the place through their viewfinders.
Xi Chang'an Jie, Xicheng district; Nearest Subway: Tiananmen West.

The Watercube: The Beijing Olympic Games served as a catalyst for one of the most dramatic reinventions ever seen by a city, and every keen travel photographer should catch the subway to the Olympic Park to see the twisted pylons of the National Stadium, popularly known as the Bird's Nest, and the dramatic over-sized bubbles of the National Aquatics Centre, aka the Watercube. I prefer the latter for its eye-catching exterior that looks good close-up or from a distance. You can even go for a swim there, and act out those Michael Phelps fantasies, after you've got your shots.
Olympic Green, Haidian district; Nearest Subway: Olympic Green.
THE QUIRKY
The Workers' Stadium: If Soviet-style art gets your heart racing but a trip to Russia isn't on the agenda, rest assured that there are plenty of throwbacks to a bygone era dotted around Beijing. The Workers' Stadium, which was the venue for the football competitions at the Olympics in 2008, was built in 1959 when relations between China and Russia were warm and comradely. At the entrance look out for the huge statue of a suspiciously western looking couple, with the muscle-bound man holding a flag aloft, and a woman raising her right arm in triumph. They don't make them like this anymore…
Workers' Stadium, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang district; Nearest subway: Dongsishitiao.

Beach life, Beijing style: The city may be land-locked, but that doesn't stop Beijing's millions of residents – sometimes it seems all at the same time – from wanting to cool down with a swim and descending on Tuanjiehu Park in the centre of the city. It's a people-watching, travel photographer's paradise: tattooed young dudes on the prowl ogling high heeled wearing bikini-clad babes mix in with young kids splashing around watched by eagle-eyed parents and grandparents who sit sedately on the artificial beach.
Tuanjiehu Park, Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang district. Tel: +81 10 8597 4677; Nearest subway: Tuanjiehu.
For more travel information about Beijing, click here.
Photo Credits: confucius prayers by latigi. All other images by Helena Iveson.
In honour of the total eclipse of the sun tomorrow - the longest total solar eclipse of the 21st century - we bring you this incredible shot by n0ll of a solar eclipse seen last year from the Gobi desert.

We'll be watching tomorrow from Hong Kong and Shanghai and will let you know how it goes.
For fab Portuguese food in Macau - and a whiff of former times in this small S.A.R - look no further than the institution that is Restaurante Fernando.

The eponymous owner has been serving up home-style cooking at his rustic, low-key restaurant for over 15 years. Not only is the food well worth coming for, but Fernado's location - in a corner of sleepy Coloane island - will give you a taste of a completely different Macau from the whirl of construction and bright lights on the Cotai Strip.
Fernando's laid-back attitude extends to its reservation policy: you can't book. If you're planning a visit over the weekend or on a public holiday arrive before 12:30pm or you'll have to wait in a long queue of hungry diners; Fernando's is unrelentingly popular.
If you end up having to wait, it's worth it, as the food is excellent. Grilled garlicky gambas, succulent roast chicken, juicy tomato salad, delicious clams, bread that homesick Europeans will go weak at the knees over, and so the list goes on. Prices are very reasonable, expect to pay about HKD 200 per person for more food than you can manage and a stream of beer, wine and sangria.
If miraculously you do save some space, Lord Stow's Bakery - another Macanese institution - is just around the corner in Coloane Main Square. The bakery's Portuguese-style egg tarts have a cult following that stretches way beyond Coloane's shores.
Restaurante Fernando, Praia de Hac Sa No. 9, Coloane, Macau; Tel: +853 2888 2264.
Lord Stow's Bakery, 1 Rua da Tassara, Coloane Town Square, Macau; Tel: +853 2888 2534; www.lordstow.com.
Check us out over at WanderFood Wednesday.
The Spring Equinox and The Serpent God at Chichen Itza, Mexico
Posted by Emma Torry on July 16, 2009 at 11:33 AM
Chichen Itza, an ancient Mayan city on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula is one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. Every day, thousands of tourists flock to the site to witness the grandiose architecture of the Mayan people. But twice a year, Chichen Itza is more than just an archaeological site. On the spring and fall equinoxes, Chichen Itza becomes a magical place, when the Mayan serpent god Kulkulkan appears in full view on the pyramid that bears his name.

Kulkulkan's appearance is a marvel of Mayan engineering. The Kulkulkan pyramid, also known as "El Castillo", is constructed so that for just one hour, only twice a year, the angle of the sun is exactly right for the shadows to form the image of a feathered serpent descending the west wall of the temple. This serpent is the Mayan god Kulkulkan.
On March 21, the spring equinox, I hopped on a bus packed full with other travellers hoping to catch a glimpse of the ancient god in the present day. The night before, there had been a storm. Water fell from the sky like nothing I had ever seen before, and wild winds rattled the windows. With the spring equinox coming, it seemed nature was throwing her weight around, making sure we were all paying attention to the changing of the seasons.
And so, as we began our long, hot ride to the archaeological site, we were all nervous – the clouds were out, and we had all witnessed first-hand what could come from those clouds. Since Kulkulkan's appearance is based on the position of the sun and the formation of shadows, we were hopeful but not certain that we would see him on this, our only opportunity.

After exploring the site, we all gathered in front of the pyramid – hot, sweaty, and thirsty from the intense heat despite the gray sky – holding our breath to see what would happen. Some people burned incense. Others prayed – to Kulkulkan or to another god, I'm not sure. The serpent started to form, there were breaks of sun, and 70,000 visitors cheered in unison. But then the sun slipped behind a solid, massive cloud, and it looked like our hopes of seeing Kulkulkan in his full form had been dashed.
The crowd started to break up, but thousands of us refused to budge, hoping against hope that there would be a break in the huge cloud – just for a moment. A few times, the sun shone dimly through, and we could get an idea of what we were missing. The pale outline of Kulkulkan was visible, and this only made us want the full experience even more.
And then, finally, it happened. From behind an impossibly huge, thick, solid cloud, the sun appeared. And there was Kulkulkan, perfectly formed, just as he would have been 1,500 years ago when there were Mayans living at Chichen Itza. Everyone's arms flew into the air together, as we thanked the Mayans (and maybe their gods) for giving us this incredible gift.

Then, suddenly, as if to emphasize the changing of the seasons that Kulkulkan's presence signifies, the skies opened up, and with the sun still shining, it started to rain.
Photo Credits: Christina Newberry and newpn2000 (via Flickr).
Canberra might be Australia's capital city but it doesn't exactly top a list of the country's must-do destinations. While both Aussies and tourists can be unfairly beastly about the place, locals say stuff 'em – and that means there's more chance of a table at Silo, Canberra's best bakery and café bar none.

Everyday there's a queue of hungry Canberrians outside the whitewashed walled café in the cosmopolitan suburb of Kingston, including a smattering of famous media types and often a buffed up member of the Brumbies Rugby union team who play nearby, waiting to take away some of Silo's delectable artisan style bread and pastries - try the blackcurrant and Cabernet tart if it hasn't sold out.
Silo's walk-in cheese room at the back of the café is the place for any fan of the hard stuff (or washed-rind varieties, or soft cheeses) to feast their eyes upon.
If it's still morning, queue for one of their tables and settle down for a fabulous brunch. The menu (served before 11.30am only – show up at 11.31am and you'll be dismissed with a curt shrug) is full of delicious treats, but I find it impossible to go past the belt-busting Basque piperade with grilled chorizo - though the chilli jam on fried eggs and tomatoes has me cursing that I don't have two stomachs. One of these choices plus a flat white coffee is a legendary way to start the day, though be warned: Silo's staff are renowned for their breathtaking rudeness. But grit your teeth and ignore them as the food is so good, even this Miss Manners will come back for more.
Open Tuesday to Saturday 7am – 4pm.
36 Giles Street, Kingston, Canberra, ACT 2604, Australia; Tel: +61 (0)2 6260 6060; Web: www.silobakery.com.au.
Check us out over at WanderFood Wednesday.
The Best of Manchester
Posted by Emma Torry on July 14, 2009 at 01:08 PM
By Andy Hayes
Visitors to England often spend most or all of their time in London and its surrounding villages and countryside, overlooking some of the more intriguing cities of the North, such as Manchester, which is experiencing a cultural boom. Here are just a few of the best things to see and do during a stay in Manchester, whether your trip is a quick weekend break or a longer stay.
WALK AND SEE MANCHESTER

Manchester's city centre has been transformed in recent years to entice locals to live and work in the area, so now you'll find art galleries, museums, shopping, and restaurants all within easy reach. Manchester's centre also provides access to the canal network, formerly the backbone of the city's industrial heritage but now a walker's haven with many workers using the route as a stress-free commute.
Don't miss stops such as the Manchester Cathedral, Manchester Town Hall - one of the most important Victorian buildings in England - and The Manchester Wheel. If you get tired of walking you can be anywhere in Manchester quickly with the easy-to-use tram and bus system.
EAT MANCHESTER
Like London, Manchester has a truly diverse population and the city's cuisine follows suit – so much so there is even an annual food and drink festival (1 - 12 Oct 2009). One of the most popular places to dine is an area of Rusholme called "Curry Mile". Resembling a subdued version of the Las Vegas strip, the street is lined on both sides with neon signs beckoning you for a beer and a curry.

You can't go wrong with a meal in this part of town – try the Royal Naz (18 Wilmslow Rd, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 256 1060) or Shere Khan (50-52 Wilmslow Rd, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 256 2624), a couple of Manchester's more famous curry houses. Manchester seems to have a penchant for Asian food, as you can always find good Chinese, Japanese, or Korean restaurants around the city.
PARTY MANCHESTER
For the city which spawned its own rock genre, "Madchester," it is no surprise to see partying at the top of the list. Mancunians of all orientations flock to the "Gay Village" for drinks, music, and fun. Eden Bar (3 Brazil Street & Canal Street, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 237 9852) is a top choice that caters to all lifestyles and it even has its own canal barge for the summer months. Many of the venues in the Gay Village are refurbished cotton warehouses, another reminder of how the city's industrial past turning into a cosmopolitan future.

Piccadilly Gardens is also a lovely place for a drink, as well as the Northern Quarter, where you can find Mancunian music and an off-beat crowd. The Roadhouse (8 Newton St, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 228 1789) is one of the more famous live music venues, or you can try Australian-themed Billie Rox (106 Portland St, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 228 2036) bar for fun down-under anthems.
SLEEP MANCHESTER
If you go to Manchester, your best bet is to stay fairly centrally, such as near Piccadilly Station – the Malmaison on Piccadilly is an excellent choice if your budget suits. To catch a glimpse of the local television stars, stay at the Victoria and Albert Hotel on Water Street, as often actors will pop in for an after-work drink in the bar. Budget seekers should head for the Hotel Ibis on Portland Street, which has fantastic rates given its central location.
Photo Credits: Canal Street, Manchester by Coradia1000; On Wilmslow Road by iwouldstay; Madchester by mikecolvin82 via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Udaipur, the "City of Lakes" in Rajasthan, India, has been crowned "World's Best City" for travellers in a Travel+Leisure travel poll.

Udaipur beat last year's winner Bangkok and last year's number 3 choice, Cape Town, into first place.
The Top 10 Cities of 2009 are:
- Udaipur, India
- Cape Town, South Africa
- Bangkok, Thailand
- Buenos Aires, Argentina
- Chiang Mai, Thailand
- Florence, Italy
- Luang Prabang, Laos
- New York, USA
- Rome, Italy
- San Francisco, USA
Another Indian travel hot-spot, Jaipur, was voted number 12 on the list.
For a full list of results, click here.
Photo Credit: Udaipur City Palace by guy_incognito via Flickr (Creative Commons).
By Andy Hayes
Many visitors to Scotland come for the medieval feel and cobblestone streets of Edinburgh, the capital city. Some venture briefly into the Highlands to see Loch Ness and have a look around for Nessie, the monster. But those who make the effort to head further afield are rewarded with stunning islands with gorgeous beaches, charming villages, and a peaceful experience where time slows down.

You'll most likely need to rent a car to make the most of your time, although in a few select cases you'll be able to find a bus tour of the area. The countryside is expansive and there few public transport options, so just select a few key places to focus your attention, or otherwise you'll spend all your time travelling. To get you started, here are a few of my favourite islands which you should consider on your next Scottish tour.
ISLAY

Islay, pronounced "eye-la," is one of the best known of a groups of islands off the west coast of Scotland, known as the Hebrides. Islay is home to nine distilleries, including some of Scotland's most popular whisky exports like Laphroaig, Bowmore, and Bunnahabhain. Explore the sandy coastline and relax in one of the quiet villages. Islay has some of the best views of the snow-capped mountains on neighbouring island, Jura (see image above).
If You Go: The ferry journey is an hour and a half from the mainland; ferries depart from Tarbert, which is 2.5 hours west of Glasgow. The best time of year to visit is May or June, especially since the Islay Whisky Festival takes place at the end of May.
SKYE

Skye is one of the largest islands off the West coast of Scotland, and its popularity has increased with the construction of a car/rail bridge connecting it to the mainland, making it easy to travel to. Because of this, there are a number of tourist attractions on the island, such as estates, castles, museums, boat tours, and even a music festival in June. Don't miss the amazing landscape either, from the Old Man of Storr (probably the most famous rock formation in Scotland) to Kilt Rock and its steep waterfall.
If You Go: Tour operators run round-trip bus tours to Skye from Edinburgh. You can access the island via car directly or via rail from a connecting service in Inverness or Glasgow. Although you can visit Skye year-round, June is one of the best months to take advantage of decent weather and long amounts of daylight; keep in mind, though, that even during the nicest summer day the weather can turn sour so pack appropriately.
THE ORKNEYS

'The Orkneys' refers to an archipelago of nearly 70 small islands clustered off the North coast of Scotland where the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean meet. These islands are very quiet places (only 21 of them are inhabited), and the countryside is so remote that there's even been talk of The Orkneys devolving from Scotland and becoming its own country. The most popular tourist sights are the Neolithic structures, such as the village of Skara Brae, which dates back 5,000 years and is said to have been inhabited before the Egyptian pyramids were built. Otherwise just relax and soak up the subdued ambience of being in the wilds of nature.
If You Go: You'll need to travel across the entire mainland of Scotland – the southernmost ferry departs from Aberdeen and is a six-hour sailing. Other ferries depart from Scrabster, Gills Bay, or John O'Groats. If you don't mind dark, cold nights then you should consider visiting in January for the Up Helly Aa festival in Lerwick. Up Helly Aa is the largest fire festival in Europe, celebrating the region's Viking heritage. Otherwise, head over during the summer for extremely long days and short nights.
Photo Credits: Skye Sunset by g.naharro; The Paps of Jura seen from Islay by glenfinlas; Camasunary, Isle of Skye by Simaron; Yesnaby Castle by thornypup. All images via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Claridges + Christian Dior = Hollywood-esq Hotel Heaven
Posted by Emma Torry on July 03, 2009 at 06:03 PM
London's Claridges hotel has teamed up with iconic fashion house, Christian Dior, to offer guests staying in the hotel's Linley and Claridge's Suites the "Dior Dressing Table at Claridge's" experience.

The Dior Dressing Table is a bringing to life of the bygone boudoir era of 1930's and 40's Hollywood. Expect all the classic Dior fragrances on your art-deco dressing table, plus a Dior beauty kit of compacts, powders and ruby red lipstick and nail varnish.
You can float to your Dior dressing table in a cream silk Claridge's dressing gown personalised with your initials, high heeled marabou mule slippers and a rose pink cashmere eye mask (which might be better left for bed if you want to match the likes of Rita Hayworth and Greta Garbo in the style stakes).
As you make yourself up you can sip 1930s inspired cocktails served in Lalique glasses from Claridge's Fumoir Bar and listen to a playlist of songs from Josephine Baker and Fred Astaire.
If Mr. Right is running late novels by Evelyn Waugh and Nancy Mitford should distract you.
The "Dior Dressing Table at Claridge's" will be available in Linley / Claridge's suites at an additional price of £300 to the quoted room rate. The price includes all Four Dior fragrances, beauty gifts – lipstick / nail varnish / powder, personalised silk dressing gown, an Evelyn Waugh book, CD and cocktails from the Fumoir. For reservations, call +44 (0)20 7629 8860 or visit www.claridges.co.uk.
Hong Kong is not short of Spanish restaurants. It is short however on the buzz, the chatter and the vibrancy that characterizes tapas bars across Spain. So welcome Uno Más. Four months old and already its tables are full and its atmosphere animated, even on a Tuesday night.

The restaurant aims to recreate the Barcelona tapas experience for Iberia-philes in Hong Kong. The modern, monochrome interior looks like many a trendy Barcelona bar, and the chef has been imported from Spain too, for added culinary authenticity.
The menu offers both tapas and main courses. We chose a selection of tapas including Ensalada de la Casa (a mixed salad topped with thinly sliced Manchego cheese), Cetas Mixtas al Jerez (sautéed mushrooms with sherry), Escalivada (roasted peppers, onions and aubergines), Albóndigas con Tomate (meatballs in a tomato sauce) and the Tortilla de Patata (potato and onion omlette served with alioli). The best, by far, was the tortilla with the meatballs coming in a close second. The salad was good – fresh and drizzled with deliciously rich balsamic vinegar – the mushrooms and escalivada very eatable, not outstandingly good.

I asked the General Manager for his recommendations and he quickly rattled off Gambas, Calamare, Bacalao a la Llauna (pan fried cod with red peppers and garlic), Croquetas de Jamón, Tortilla de Patata y Chorizo and Manzana Rellena (stuffed baked apple with pork, raisins and pine nuts). The paella also came highly recommended. We should have asked before we ordered!
The wine list was decent, the highlight being Pedro Ximénez (sweet, dark, dessert sherry) by the glass (HK$75).
Uno Más is an exciting addition to Hong Kong's Spanish restaurant scene, and is absolutely worth a visit. Go with a group of friends for a relaxed, informal dinner or as a couple for an intimate meal in a lively atmosphere. We sat inside on a high table, but the covered balcony (with air-con) looked like the best spot to be.
A meal for two, including wine, costs about HK$1,000.
Uno Más, 1/F, 54 – 62 Lockhart Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 2527 9111. Opening hours: Sunday – Thursday, 12pm – 2am; Friday and Saturday: 12pm – 3am.
By Andy Hayes
Edinburgh, Scotland's capital city, doubles in size come August as tourists descend from all over the world to enjoy the Edinburgh Fringe (7 - 31 August 2009), dubbed the world's largest arts festival. With so many people pouring down the steep slopes of the city's streets, the old world vibe of Edinburgh can start to feel distinctly crowded. Here are some top tips for surviving:

1. Book Your Tickets in Advance
Not only do many popular shows sell out, but by buying in advance you'll avoid the sometimes lengthy queues at the Fringe box office (180 High Street, Edinburgh; +44 (0)131 226 0026). If you do want to buy something later on see if you can get tickets at the venue itself – it might save you the extra trip and save time. You can buy tickets online at the Edinburgh Fringe website but get a paper copy of the entire programme (it's easier to read), then go online to search and buy.
2. Eat Early
Restaurants become a real problem during the Edinburgh Festival – few if any take reservations and the numbers of people coming through all but break many kitchens. The staff at most places do a great job coping (after all, it's a yearly event) but you'll have to wait. To ease the pain, try eating early. Otherwise, look for a restaurant further away from the city centre – great food can be found near Haymarket and Stockbridge, where there are fewer Fringe venues and subsequently fewer tourists.
3. Spend some time away from the Fringe
It's easy to come to Edinburgh and get caught up in the excitement of the event, but don't forget Edinburgh is a city full of other sights and plenty of outdoor activities. Get some fresh air up on Arthur's Seat, the highest point in the city, or check out the monuments on top of Calton Hill at the end of Princes Street. Head down to Leith and check out the harbour area. When you get back to the crowded Fringe venues, you'll feel refreshed.

There's no use hoping that your Fringe visit will not be crowded; it's part of the experience. So relax, soak up the atmosphere, and enjoy Edinburgh's transformation into an arts and theatre wonderland – there's nothing like it.
Photo Credits: Crowds at the Edinburgh Fringe by freefotouk, Edinburgh desde Calton Hill by estorde via Flickr (Creative Commons).
How To... Shape Up For Your Summer Travels: Top 10 Expert Tips
Posted by Emma Torry on June 26, 2009 at 11:14 AM
The holiday is booked and the swimwear has come out of hibernation, but one key question remains... how are you going to get into buff beach shape before it's time to strut your half-naked stuff?
We caught up with Nathan Solia, founder and trainer at Bootcamp Hong Kong, to get a fitness expert's top 10 tips on how to get fit and into scorching hot shape for your travels this summer.

1. Eat small meals and eat regularly: Eating small, regular meals aids in weight loss by keeping your metabolism and blood sugar levels up so you crave food less frequently.
2. Do interval training: Interval training doesn't deplete muscle mass like going for a long-distance run does, and it burns body fat and calories more efficiently.
3. Drink water: Water keeps you hydrated and there are no calories and no sugar in good old H2O. To burn calories your body requires a good supply of water in order to function efficiently; dehydration slows down the fat-burning process, so drink up!
4. Do weight bearing exercise: It will build up your metabolism and allow you to burn fat more effectively. Weight bearing exercise is any exercise that works your bones and muscles against gravity, for example weight training, jogging, climbing stairs and football.
5. Choose all over body exercises: Working out your whole body burns off much more fat than spot exercises such as sit-ups. Do an ab plank rather than an ab crunch, as it's more of an all over body work out.
6. Do squats, lunges and step-ups: Your quads are such a big muscle group that they burn a lot of fat if worked out properly. Doing squats, lunges and step-ups will tone your tummy better than sit-ups because they burn off more calories and more fat.
7. Eat wisely: Choose good quality fats and take Trans Fats out. Good fats include Omega-3 rich foods like oily fish, flaxseed and olive oil (in moderation!); bad Trans Fats are found in a lot of packaged food like crisps, microwave popcorn and vegetable oil. Another tip is to cut down on cooked veggies in favour of raw ones; when you cook vegetables they lose their good minerals and vitamins and become easier to digest.
8. Exercise 3 to 5 times per week for between 30 and 60 minutes: Yes, it sounds torturous, but it really will get you results.
9. Exercise with a friend or in a group: This will help to keep your motivation up – you are less likely slack off if you've arranged to go to the gym or the park with a friend – and you'll stick with your program for longer when you feel a sense of belonging and hear your friends' positive feedback.
10. Get fit outdoors: Make the most of the outdoor space around you – even the smallest of parks has enough space to do ab planks, dips and push-ups – exercising outdoors is more interesting than running on the treadmill in the gym so you are more likely to stick at it for longer.

Watch Nathan demonstrating some of these exercises here and read his tips for staying fit whilst you're on the road here.
For more information about Bootcamp Hong Kong please visit www.bootcamp.com.hk or call +852 2869 6883.
Photos courtesy of Bootcamp Hong Kong.
Staying fit whilst you travel is no mean feat. The vast majority of hotels don't have their own gyms and in some countries it's not appropriate to don your tight-fitting Lycra and head out for a jog. Even when you're staying in a 4* or 5* hotel with swanky fitness equipment the gym can be horribly unappealing – why would you want to hit the treadmill when you could be eating, drinking or sightseeing? Bottom line – it's easy to lose the motivation to keep fit whilst you travel.

We spoke to fitness expert and Hong Kong Bootcamp Founder and Trainer, Nathan Solia, about what you can do to burn fat and stay fit when you're on the road.
Make sure you watch the video of Nathan demonstrating how to do the exercises mentioned below.
Q: If you're staying somewhere without a gym what exercises can you do in your hotel room?
Nathan Solia: You can do squats, lunges, ab planks, one leg hip extensions, push-ups, shoulder raises, shoulder presses and dips in a very small space.
Q: How can you improvise if there's no gym near where you're staying or you don't want to pay for one?
NS: Use your bed or a chair to do dips and shoulder presses from, use the hallway wherever you're staying to do lunges and squats, run or walk up and down the fire exit. The hallway is also an excellent place to do shuttles: go to the end of the hallway, run to the first door and then run back, run to the second door and run back and so on. People will think you're insane, but it'll keep you fit!
Q: What fitness equipment should everyone pack?
NS: I recommend packing a TRX Suspension Trainer. It's a lightweight (2 lbs) piece of kit that you can pack into a small space. It's easy to set up and will give you a great workout, building muscular balance, joint stability, mobility, and core strength. You can use it in your room tied to the door or outdoors in a park, so it's perfect for travellers.
Q: Why is it important to stay fit when you travel?
NS: Because you've got to fight the flab – when you don't use it you lose it! Fitness levels drop off quickly and it takes time to build your fitness back up. If you've been working hard at home it seems a shame to undo all your good work over a two or three week break.
Q: What pre-travel preparation can you do to keep fit wherever you travel to?
NS: Go onto Google and find a local park or outdoor space. All you need to keep fit are steps and a patch of ground (for more info watch Nathan's video).
Q: Can exercise help to beat jetlag?
NS: Yes! Exercise a few hours before bed can help to increase the time you spend asleep. Morning exercise can help to keep you alert throughout the day, which is always tough when you travel long-haul. In-flight make sure you walk around the cabin, stand up on your tiptoes and lower down, bring your knee into your chest whilst you stand up and rotate from side to side in your seat.
For more information and tips on how to do these exercises to maximum effect, watch this video.
To find out more about Bootcamp Hong Kong visit www.bootcamp.com.hk.
Photo Credit: Jogging on a bright November morning by Ed Yourdon via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Taking place in Cusco this week (24 June) is the festival of Inti Raymi, the Festival of the Sun. Inti Raymi pays homage to the Inca sun god, Inti, and marks the winter solstice.
Around 100,000 visitors flood into Cusco to mark the festival. To find out more about travelling to Cusco click here.
Okavango Delta has the best safari conditions in 45 years!
Posted by Emma Torry on June 17, 2009 at 11:05 AM
Our friends over at Black Tomato are roaring with excitement because Botswana's Okavango Delta currently has the best safari conditions in 45 years.

The Okavango Delta is enjoying the highest water levels on record since 1963, and more water = more game. So right now is the time to cash in your holiday time and travel to Botswana.
The current tip top safari conditions mean that visitors can go by boat into parts of the delta that are normally unreachable - seeing the wildlife in a way that is usually near impossible. You can even explore the flood plains and spot game in a traditional mokoro canoe.
Black Tomato is running a special offer on Okavango Delta safaris (in case you needed any more reason to pack your bags and go): 7 nights for the price of 6, saving £400 per person.
Unparalleled safari conditions, incredible wildlife, papyrus swamps, reed plains and a luxurious camp at the Vumbura Reserve - sounds pretty perfect to us.
A 7 night safari costs from £5,380 pp (save £400 pp), including international and internal flights, 7 nights' Full Board accommodation, park fees, game drives, mokoro/boat trips, laundry, and taxes. For more information, visit Black Tomato.
Photo Credits: Okavango Delta, Botswana by Sara&Joachim and Sunset on the hippo pool by lawmurray via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Shot of the Day: Luminara di San Ranieri - Pisa, Italy
Posted by Emma Torry on June 16, 2009 at 10:55 AM

Today, the people of Pisa will honour their patron saint, Saint Ranieri, by lighting some 70,000 lumini (small glass lanterns) in the city's palazzi, along its bridges, and in the towers, as well as floating thousands of candles on the River Arno. The candles and lanterns create an incredible spectacle of light.
The Luminara di San Ranieri happens every year on 16th June.
Photo Credit: Luminara di San Ranieri by fcaboni via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Research shows that living abroad gives you a creative edge
Posted by Emma Torry on June 15, 2009 at 03:46 PM
If you ever needed a push to make your next trip something more permanent, then here you go... Anecdotal evidence has long shown that living abroad gives you a creative edge - think Kipling, Yeats, Picasso, Hemingway, Handel and Gauguin - and now two psychologists have proved a tenable link.

In their article "Cultural Boarders and Mental Barriers: The Relationship Between Living Abroad and Creativity" for the Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, William W. Maddux of INSEAD and Adam D. Galinsky of Northwestern University prove that people who have lived or are living abroad have more creative insights than those who don't; that "spending time in new cultures can transform individuals into more creative beings".
Americans and foreigners living in America underwent 5 seperate studies to test whether there is a link between living abroad and creativity. The results showed that those who were either living abroad or had spent some time doing so were better problem solvers, negotiators and more open to new experiences (which is known to play a part in creativity).
As The Economist notes, "Merely travelling abroad, however, was not enough. You do have to live there. Packing your beach towel and suntan lotion will not, by itself, make you Hemingway."
Tahitian Women on the Beach by Paul Gauguin via Wikipedia.
Our brand new "Business Traveller's Guide To" series kicks off with Hong Kong. The new guide gives you the heads up on everything you need to know about the "Fragrant Harbour".

For tips on where to stay, eat, meet, drink, shop, spa, get suited and much more click here. These tips are guaranteed to knock the socks of your clients and colleagues next time you're in town.

Where to Spa in Hong Kong: The Mandarin Barbour.
Cycling Around Cambridge: Rivers, Meadows and Cream Teas
Posted by Emma Torry on June 10, 2009 at 03:11 PM
Brits have always been bonkers about bikes, and no-where is better suited to biking than Cambridge. It's the city with the highest level of cycle use in the UK, where spokes and students go hand-in-hand and locals prefer two wheels to four.

The ancient, tightly packed city is perfect for exploring by bike and it's a very easy ride out to the quiet river "backs" and water meadows of the River Cam.

One of the top cycling routes is Cambridge to Grantchester, a village immortalized by Rupert Brooke in his 1912 poem The Old Vicarage, Grantchester. It's a leisurely 30 minute cycle ride from Cambridge to Grantchester across meadows and along river banks. There are dozens of picnic spots en route, but make sure you save room for the famous cream tea at the Orchard Tea Garden or, for those in need of stronger stuff, a pint in the beer gardens of The Rupert Brooke or The Red Lion pubs.
With British "Bike Week", the biggest nationwide cycling event in the UK, coming up from 13 – 21 June, now is the perfect time to explore Cambridge by bike. And what better excuse than Bike Week to treat yourself to a cycle-themed break at the boutiquey Hotel du Vin Cambridge, right in the heart of the city's famous cobbled streets and college enclosures?

A two-night Summer Cycling Break at the Hotel du Vin Cambridge costs from £349 for two people (sharing) including 2 nights bed & breakfast accommodation, with supper in the Bistro on one evening, and a full days’ bike hire. Valid throughout summer 2009, subject to availability. To book, contact Hotel du Vin Cambridge on +44 (0)1223 227 330.
Photo Credits: Clare HDR by .mushi_king; grantchester by murasakinotori via Flickr (Creative Commons). HdV Cambridge Suite ©Hotel du Vin.
The Carpenter's Arms: Al Fresco Drinking Spot in London
Posted by Emma Torry on June 08, 2009 at 12:19 PM
If your travels are taking you to London this summer enjoy a quintessential English experience with Pimms or a pint at The Carpenter's Arms on Whitfield Street.

Just off Tottenham Court Road, this pretty pub is home to a brilliant roof terrace that's the perfect spot for a tipple in the sunshine. If the terrace is full there are tables outside on the pavement, plus the pub's interior is light and airy if the London weather is a letdown.
If you're planning a get together you can hire out the roof terrace and the adjacent Belle Bar for a party (a minimum spend of £500 is required).
The Carpenter's Arms, 68-70 Whitfield Street, London, W1T 4EY.
Tel: +44 20 7580 3186; Website: www.thecarpentersarmsw1.co.uk; Opening Hours: Sun 12-10.30pm, Mon 12-11pm, Tue, Wed & Thurs 12-11.30pm, Fri & Sat 12- midnight.
Photo Credit: Carpenter's Arms, Fitzrovia, W1 by Ewan-M.
In the Market for Feasting: Jalan Alor, Kuala Lumpur
Posted by Emma Torry on June 04, 2009 at 02:06 PM
Is there a more food-obsessed city than Kuala Lumpur? Malaysia's ethnic blend of Chinese, Malay and Indian has made Kuala Lumpur Asia's capital city of gluttony. "We are truly a food-mad country," says Honey Ahmad, co-founder of local food blog Fried Chillies. "Eating is what unites us. When we talk about food, it transcends race and religion and breaks down barriers."

Fasting for a few days before arrival might be a good idea as something else that unites locals is a love of carbs, from Indian roti bread to Malaysian favourite Hokkien mee noodles. But dining out in Kuala Lumpur, whether it be at the street-side stalls which line the city or in one of the many air-conditioned malls, is the city's greatest pleasure and staggeringly inexpensive.
Your first stop in KL should be night market Jalan Alor, near Bukit Bintang, the neon-lit nightlife centre. The street used to be a red light district but is now a family-friendly destination where spice and sauce comes from flaming woks.
Take a wander through the stalls and feast on the sight of hungry diners perched on rickety stools, waiting for their char siew barbequed pork or steaming plates of chilli fried squid to arrive amongst the clatter of woks.

Stalls to look out for include Jalan Alor Nasi Lamak Stall at the road's junction with Changkat Bukit Bintang. Carnivores will devour the meltingly rich beef rendang, where the meat is stewed in thick coconut milk for a day. Locals eat it with sambal kerang – a chilli and cockles paste – on the side. If you have room for more meat, don't miss out on the fabulous Wong Ah Wah chicken stall at the end of the road – just look out for the queue of fans waiting for their wings.
Where: Jalan Alor, Off Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Photo Credits: beef rendang - ready to simmer by smashz, NL - dishes by babe_kl via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Shot of the Day: Wet footed elephant by the Chobe river
Posted by Emma Torry on May 27, 2009 at 09:42 AM
This shot by frederic.salein depicts a scene that travellers to Botswana dream about encountering. Amazing light plus a stunning animal.

Check out AliceAfrica's two week African adventure travel itinerary here. For more information about the Chobe National Park click here.
Spiral Island, Mexico: Visiting a Mad Scientist on an Island Built on Plastic Bottles
Posted by Emma Torry on May 25, 2009 at 10:33 AM
Mexico has an abysmal plastic recycling program. Combine this with the fact that tourists and locals alike down bottled water in huge quantities, and the end result is literally tons of plastic heading into landfills.
This problem inspired Rishi Sowa, a British ex-pat living on the Mexican island of Isla Mujeres to create an ecologically sensitive way to re-use plastic, creating his own mini-ecosystem in the process. The result is Spiral Island.

Anchored in Makax Lagoon, the 20-metre island is built on a base of 100,000 floating plastic bottles. With a house that includes a fully functional kitchen and bathroom, and even an office space with solar- and wind-powered laptop station, Sowa sees the island as a model method for making housing out of trash.
Sowa lives on the island full time and offers tours on a donation basis.
Our tour started with a short ride from the dock to the island on a hand-built raft-style boat, which is also made from plastic bottles. As we stepped down on to the island, Sowa warned us that it wouldn't quite feel like terra firma – the floating bottles give the entire island a little bit of bounce. Once we had our island legs, Sowa explained how he's using quick-growing mangroves and other plants to stabilize the island, clean the air, and generally help to minimize the damage done by all the plastic we consume.

As we walked around the island, Sowa showed off his prototype for a wave- and solar-powered clothes washing system – just one of his island inventions. Another neat trick is the tin-can-style telephone he's made using conch shells, so visitors in what will eventually be an upstairs guest bedroom can call down to the kitchen for breakfast. The shower and taps are conch shells, and the toilet is a self-composting system that uses woodchips to neutralise odours and germs.
Solar panels on the island generate enough electricity to power Sowa's laptop, lights, and kitchen appliances. He ended the tour by sharing some of his home-made island ice cream.
The island in Mexico is Sowa's second attempt at plastic-bottle island living. The first Spiral Island, anchored near Puerto Aventuras, lasted for seven years before being destroyed by a hurricane. With the new island tethered in a more sheltered lagoon, Sowa hopes it can become a permanent installation, and then become a model for economically and ecologically sound housing for and society that has water nearby or suffers from flooding.
Seeing Spiral Island is one thing – but the real benefit of the tour is picking Sowa's brain. He's part mad scientist, part "eco-pioneer."
If you go:
Spiral Island is not a typical tourist stop, and you won't find it on any day-trip agenda. In fact, the island may have moved by the time you try to find it – when we were there Sowa was in the process of securing permission to move the island further from shore. (The island is licensed as a boat, and right now it's secured to a dock very close to land – close enough that his cat was able to escape through the mangrove roots and come back with kittens in her belly.)
For now, Spiral Island is anchored in Makax Lagoon, at a dock near the Dolphin Discovery pavilion. Your best bet to find the island if it's moved is to check in at the Pocna hostel (15 Matamoros Ave, Isla Mujeres), where one of the staff members should be able to direct you to it. Or, just stop by the Sunset Grill on North Beach (Av. Rueda Medina, Condominios Nautibeach) on a Sunday night and ask the guitar player – it's Sowa himself. After all, even an eco-pioneer has to earn a living.
All photos ©Christina Newberry
The Channel Islands aren't usually on most travellers' radars when it comes to choosing a holiday spot. Generally, Britain's outlying islands conjure up images of offshore banking, dairy cows, Jersey potatoes and complicated residency rules.

But in my travels around the Channel Islands, most recently to Jersey, I've found it to be well worth a visit. Jersey's rolling fields of green, beaches, castles, and warm climate are all good reasons for a visit. The Gulf Stream means the islands enjoy a warm climate.
Other advantages are that it's well-connected to the UK, and the time zone and currency are the same as on the mainland. That's worth considering at the moment, with the poor dollar/euro to pound exchange rates.
A quarter of Jersey's work force is employed in the financial services industry, and that has two important effects on tourists: good hotels and restaurants. Two establishments have even been awarded Michelin stars.
I liked the The Terrace at the Grand Hotel (Esplanade, St Helier 01534 722301). The avocado and mango salad and crab sandwich on focaccia were both great. There's a large terrace with a good view of Elizabeth Castle, and the service is excellent.

Café JAC in the Jersey Arts Centre is also a nice spot for a latte (Philips Street, St Helier, Tel: 01534 879 482). The Museum Brasserie at the Jersey Museum (The Weighbridge, St Helier (Tel: 01534 633300) has a large courtyard and is a good place for lunch. Another great thing about Jersey is the ice-cream. The famed milk of the Jersey cow definitely lives up to its creamy reputation.
To get around, it's best to hire a car. The sights and beaches are spread around the island and public transport is limited to buses. There are a number of signposted bike trails – which is good as the vehicle roads can be very windy. Navigating the roads is terrifying enough in a car – even though the speed limit is only 40 miles an hour. A bike would not be for the faint hearted, so stick to the trails.

Jersey's main historical attractions are Mont Orgueil Castle and Elizabeth Castle. There are also a number of tourist attractions that tell the story of the five year Nazi occupation of Jersey from 1940 to 1945. The Channel Islands were the only part of the UK to be occupied during the Second World War.
A complex of underground bunkers, the Höhlgangsanlage, has been turned into the Jersey War Tunnels museum. There's a permanent exhibition at Ho8 on the life of Violette Szabó, a secret agent for Britain's Special Operations Executive during WWII. Szabó was executed in Ravensbrück concentration camp aged 23 and was awarded the George Cross posthumously. It was her daughter Tania Szabó who received the cross on her mother's behalf in 1949. Now a Jersey resident, Tania Szabó opened the exhibition at the Jersey War Tunnels in 2003. (Höhlgangsanlage 8, St Lawrence. Tel: 01534 860 808)

I stayed at the Hotel de France, St. Helier. It's a grand four-star hotel with a gym, sauna, infinity pool and a chic spa. My room was very comfortable, had a fine view of St. Helier, and staff were helpful too. The Hotel de France has had an interesting history, with various incarnations as a Jesuit College, a training school for the occupying German forces during the second world war, and twice as a hotel. It's about a 15 minute walk from town.
History, fine dining and beaches – Jersey has got serious holiday credentials.
Harriet Torry was guest of the Jersey Tourism Bureau. For more information about Jersey please visit their website at www.jersey.com
Photo Credits: St Brelade's Bay by Paul Hudson; Elizabeth Castle, St Helier, Jersey by Alex Fearn; View from Mont Orgueil Castle by paulafunnell; SOE Memorial, Albert Embankment by Loz Flowers via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Isla Holbox: A Tiny Mexican Island with Big, Big Fish
Posted by Emma Torry on May 20, 2009 at 11:19 AM
Isla Holbox (pronounced hole-bosh) is a small island located on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula, about three hours from Cancun by bus. It's best known as a place to swim with whale sharks – the world's largest fish – from June to September. At over 12 metres long and weighing up to 13 tonnes, whale sharks are the largest fish on earth – but since they only eat plankton, they pose no danger to swimmers.

For the rest of the year, Isla Holbox is simply a place to relax. With a population of less than 2,000 people, streets paved with sand, and no cars, it really is a world apart from any tourist locale. You often look around to realise that while you're surrounded by pelicans, there are no other humans in sight. If you've ever wanted to indulge a desert island fantasy, this is the place to do it. Read on for a travel guide to Isla Holbox...
Where to stay on Isla Holbox:
The entire island is a working fishing site, so all stretches of beach are full of moored fishing boats, and there are tons of pelicans gobbling up the abundant fish. None of the beaches are as nice as those you'll find in the Caribbean (the island's waters are part of the Gulf of Mexico), but you'll often have them all to yourself.

One stretch of beach has become known as Isla Holbox’s Hotel Zone. It's a cluster of resorts, many made up of luxurious cabañas. The hotels charge in American dollars, with prices starting at $75 per night and going up to over $180 (much more during whale shark season).
An excellent low-cost alternative is the Ida y Vuelta campsite, located just behind the hotel zone, about 200 metres from the beach. Ida y Vuelta offers camping spots for $7 per person, beds in a shared cabana for $11 per person, or a private cabana for $45 (all prices are mid-season rates). With an excellent communal kitchen, hammocks all over the place, and the cleanest hostel-style bathroom I've ever seen, it's a wonderful way to make the most of Holbox's charms and make some new friends at the same time.
What to do on Isla Holbox:
Truthfully, unless you're there for the whale sharks, Isla Holbox is all about not doing much at all. Island life is slow and laid back, and nothing in town really beats an afternoon spent in a hammock. That said, renting bicycles and riding around the island is an excellent way to spend an afternoon. For 80 pesos (less than $6) you can rent a bike for 24 hours. The bikes have some salt damage, no gears, and foot brakes, but they'll get you where you're going (and you won't be going far – the entire island is only 40 km long and 2 km wide.)

If you are there during whale shark season, just about anyone on the island can put you in touch with a tour operator. Most of the snorkelling tours are operated by local fishermen, who cherish the whale sharks and conduct their tours in ways that don't disturb the breeding and migration of the big fish. All-day snorkel tours are available for around $80 per person.
Riding, bird-watching, and crocodile watching is also available on the island, and from May to August there are tours to see nesting sea turtles on a pristine beach. All of these tours are available through Mextreme Travel.
Where to Eat on Isla Holbox:
Isla Holbox has a large population of Italian immigrants, and the cuisine on the island is overwhelmingly Italian. Almost every restaurant serves up pasta, risotto, and other Italian specialities – and prices are not that much less that what you would expect to find in an Italian restaurant in any major North American city. Both Los Pelícanos and La Cueva del Pirata offer excellent homemade pasta in the town's main square.
Of course, as a fishing village, Isla Holbox also has excellent seafood – and it couldn't be fresher. It's rare for a fish to be more than 24 hours from catch to plate. The Buena Vista offers excellent grilled fish only a few feet from the beach. Some days, the beach bars offer fish straight from the boats that moor out front.
For a taste of Mexican food, start off the day with empanadas from Empanadas la Conquista or just buy a stack of fresh tortillas from the local tortilleria.
Getting to Isla Holbox:

Isla Holbox has remained tranquil for a reason – it's a bit of a trek to get there. From Cancun, take the bus to Chiquila. It's about a three-hour trip, and since there's no exit to Chiquila from the toll highway, only second-class buses make the run. The second-class buses stop often to pick up passengers and drop them off, and they have no onboard toilet. The highway has more speedbumps than you'd ever expect a highway to have. The point is, it's not luxurious – but it's safe, and you will get there in one piece.
From Chiquila, take a ferry across the lagoon to Isla Holbox. It's a 20-minute crossing that runs nine times per day. If you've booked with Ida y Vuelta, there will likely be a friendly face waiting to meet you at the ferry dock. You can take a golf-cart taxi to your hotel or the campground if you have lots of luggage, but it's only a 10 to 15 minute walk to the hotel zone. You can access the Chiquila - Holbox ferry schedule here.
Relax:
It's not often that you'll be able to see vast stretches of beach populated only by birds and fish. Take it all in and let the vibe of Isla Holbox wash over you. When it's time to leave, you'll be surprised by just how mellow you've become.
Photo Credits: All images ©Christina Newberry unless credited below.
Whale Sharks via iStockPhoto.com; Isla de Holbox by Not all potatoes can swim... via Flickr (Creative Commons).
World's best boutique hostels: Nifty Interactive Map
Posted by Emma Torry on May 19, 2009 at 05:14 PM
If travelling in style without having to pay 5* prices appeals (and who could say no to that?), then check out The Guardian's nifty / thrifty interactive tool that maps and details the world's best boutique hostels.

From Big Milly's Backyard in Ghana, where the £3 per night huts "sit by some of the finest stretches of beach in Africa" to NYC's The Gershwin an "East Side hotel-cum-hostel styled in Andy Warhol's image" where rooms cost from USD 45 per night.
This is the perfect booking buddy for luxury travellers on a tight budget. Check it out here.

Photo Credit: Gershwin Hotel by ewanmcdowall via Flickr (Creative Commons).
This stunning shot by Ivan Makarov certainly offers a fresh perspective across Dead Horse Point State Park in Utah.

Ivan says: "This is by far the craziest and the most dangerous photo I have ever taken in my life. Brandon is sitting on the edge of the Dead Horse Point in Moab, Utah, and if he was to fall, he was to fly about 2,000 feet down."
On Saturday, Jersey celebrated the 64th anniversary of the island's liberation from five years of Nazi occupation during the Second World War. An international music festival, street parades, an outdoor service of thanksgiving and a enactment of the arrival of the British troops all commemorated the 9th May 1945 – the day when, as the British Prime Minister Winston Churchill said, "our dear Channel Islands are also to be freed".

The Jersey Liberation Festival took centre stage over the weekend, hosting a number of world-class musicians at concerts and masterclasses.
The highlights included the Liberation Gala Concert at the Jersey Opera House. The Sitkovetsky Trio steered the audience through an intense musical line-up, played with great feeling and energy. The trio consists of violinist Alexander Sitkovetsky, pianist Qian Wu, and cellist Leonard Elschenbroich. The communication between the three was powerful; they played Smetana's haunting Piano Trio with thrilling intensity.
Guy Pratt struck a more lighthearted chord during his comedy gig "My Bass and Other Animals". Pratt, the former Pink Floyd bass guitarist turned stand-up comedian and "Betsy", his bass guitar, kept the audience laughing with his anecdotes about working with Madonna and sessions with an elusive Michael Jackson.
Musicians from Germany, China, Spain, Russia and Italy served to make the Jersey Liberation Festival a truly international event. The Italian-Thai opera singer Maya Sapone got the crowds swaying to the 1940s favourites "We'll Meet Again" and "A Nightingale Sang in Berkeley Square" at the street party in Liberation Square.
One thing that made the Jersey Liberation Festival special was the engagement with the local community. At the start of the festival's grand keynote event, the Liberation Gala Concert, the master of ceremonies read out poems from a recent children's poetry competition. Entitled "What Liberation Means to Me", the poems had been published in the local newspaper and gave the classical concert an injection of local colour. Schoolchildren's poems rarely feature at classical concerts, and in Jersey they made fantastic addition.
At the Coffee Concert in the Arts Centre the next morning, young Jersey musicians got the chance to perform on stage with pianists Wu Qian and Tessa Grobel. Grobel, who also directed the festival, said young musicians in Jersey really benefited from the concert, and not just for the chance to perform. "So many children came [to the masterclasses] from around the island. Everybody just raved about them, being able to watch performers rehearse, and being inspired by performers who are young enough that they could relate to." The musicians involved in the festival – no matter how acclaimed or well-known – made an effort to connect with the islanders.
The Liberation Day festivities and the Jersey Liberation Festival were both heartening and moving. Although upbeat, the celebrations reflected on a solemn historical occasion. The impassioned music of the musicians cast light on a dark chapter of Jersey's history.
Watch an exclusive interview with star pianist Wu Qian about the Jersey Liberation Festival, her favourite concert venues and why Chinese food is the best...
If you want to take advantage of the cheap charter flights to Cancun, but the mega-resorts of the Cancun strip fit neither your budget nor your travel style, Isla Mujeres may be the answer to your travel prayers.

Isla Mujeres is a small island a short ferry ride from Cancun. But it's worlds away from the all-inclusive resort glitz that has taken over the Cancun strip. A trip to Isla really feels like a trip to Mexico, and there's a magic to the island that's difficult to put into words. It's the reason why almost every traveller you meet on the island will tell you they've come back there time and time again, and why my recent visit – my first – will certainly not by my last.
Even before you hit the beach on Isla, you'll be dazzled by the incredible turquoise blue waters. They are literally breathtaking, and you'll never get used




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