The 13th century explorer, Marco Polo, described the Chinese city of Hangzhou as the "City of Heaven" and "the most beautiful and magnificent in the world." Today, seven centuries on, keeping this cultural legacy intact in a city that is booming and growing is no mean feat, but it's one that several new hotels in Hangzhou are aiming to achieve - including the brand new Banyan Tree.

The Banyan Tree Hangzhou, which opened in January of this year, is designed in the traditional style of the Jiangnan region. Like the neighbouring XiXi Wetlands, the property is surrounded by channels and lakes, with picturesque bridges and a pagoda within the grounds.

Consisting of seventy-two suites and villas, The Banyan Tree Hangzhou feels almost like a (very luxurious) village. We stayed in a Premier Water Terrace - one of the suites within the main building - which with its own sitting room, balcony and spa treatment room, plus a bedroom with a free standing hot-tub, and vast bathroom, was both very spacious (120 sqm) and fantastically indulgent. I was able to view a Water View Villa too, which though more private in it's own mini-grounds and with better views, didn't feel as spacious as the suite.

All of the suites and villas in the hotel are themed according to the four seasons, with colour schemes to match. In terms of mod-cons, guests have access to free in-room WiFi, plus the hotel's DVD and CD collection.
The Banyan Tree's location, 15 minutes away from downtown Hangzhou and the famous West Lake within the Xixi National Wetland Park, should - and no doubt shall - spell complete tranquility. At the moment however, it's the first finished property amongst a number of new hotels going up in the Westbrook project, which means there's some construction noise. This was minimal during our three-night stay though, especially as visiting the city's famous sights keeps most visitors busy from dawn till dusk.
The hotel's concierge team can help to organise all sorts of tours and full- or half-day trips. Though these definitely do not come cheap (around 2,000 RMB for a full day) in the heat and humidity of summer, and with limited time on our hands, it was well worth splashing out on. Our guide spoke impeccable English and took us tirelessly from one hot-spot to another explaining the history and significance of each; no need to cart along a cumbersome guide book. Our day tour took in Hangzhou's main sights of Fei Lai peak, and its 300 limestone carvings; the Temple of the Soul's Retreat; Longjing tea village (pictured below) and the Dragon Well; Leifeng Pagoda; a private boat trip on West Lake; the Three Pools Mirroring the Moon; and a historic shopping street. Not bad for a day's work!

If you do get sightseeing weary, the Banyan Tree Spa is a great haven. The pages-long treatment menu is full of solutions to ease you from stone into butter, and there's also a large indoor swimming pool and daily yoga or tai chi sessions to help you unwind. If you have a spa treatment room within your suite or villa you don't even have to walk to the spa - they will come to you.
What is worth heading out for though is dinner. Perhaps due to teething problems, the Banyan Tree's food is not its strong suit. On our first evening we tried the Chinese restaurant, Bai Yun, where Hangzhou and Canton flavours take centre stage. It's impossible to judge the food here as I am no aficionado of Chinese cuisine; some of the dishes on our tasting menu were fantastic - especially the West Lake fish - and others less so. It is the resort's Waterlight Court restaurant that really lets the side down. The breakfast buffet is average, and the a la carte menu a disappointment. I ordered a Caesar salad with "grilled chicken breast" and was served romaine leaves with processed chicken slices. On another occasion we asked for a vegetarian pizza and received something that can only have come out of a freezer packet. Let's hope it was the head chef's weekend off...
Food aside, the Banyan Tree Hangzhou was a great place to spend a weekend away from the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong: scenic and indulgent with a young team keen to cater to your every need. Though Marco Polo's superlatives may not yet quite apply, they no doubt soon will.
Room rates start at RMB2,700 per night for a Water Terrace Suite and RMB3,700 per night for a Water View Villa (rates are subject to 15% tax and service charge).
Until 28 February 2011 enjoy the Romance in Hangzhou Package from RMB 5,998. Price includes a two-night stay in a Premier Water Terrace with daily breakfast for 2 people, plus:
- One set dinner at Waterlight Court for 2 people.
- One afternoon tea at Tea Lounge for 2 people.
- One 90-minute massage session (inclusive of a 60-minute massage and 30 minutes calm-time) for 2 people at Banyan Tree Spa Hangzhou.
- One in-suite Intimate Moments experience, inclusive of one bottle of red wine.
- Oriental bath experience in Onsen Treatment Room.
Banyan Tree Hangzhou: 21 Zijingang Road, Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province, 310030, People's Republic of China; Tel: +86 571 8586 0000; Fax: +86 571 8586 2222; Web: www.banyantree.com.
Photo Credits: Pagoda on Lake by Mlq4296 (Creative Commons), Banyan Tree courtesy of Banyan Tree Resorts; Longjing Village by Simon Archer-Perkins.
