By Christina Newberry

On Isla Mujeres, a small island off the coast of Cancun, there are a surprising number of top-notch restaurants. Foodies can dig into homemade pasta, impossibly fresh ceviche, inventive fusion fare, and, of course, mouth-watering Mexican standards cooked with love by grandmothers and church ladies, at taco stands and in the town square.

But the best dinner in town is not in a restaurant as such. Instead, it’s hidden away in a quiet courtyard, where Lolo Lorena, a Belgian national who’s lived on the island so long she’s considered a local, hosts guests for sumptuous five-course feasts at a shared table in the supper-club style that’s sweeping major cities.

On this tiny island, you don’t have to know a secret handshake or have an “in” to get a seat at this most coveted table – though you do have to book in advance (by November, Valentine’s Day is sold out). You just have to give Lolo a call.

What makes Lolo’s table special is the feeling that one is not a customer, but a guest. Chatting through a three-hour meal with up to 15 strangers in Lolo’s courtyard decked with fairy lights, exotic plants, and treasured items from her travels around the world is a way to make quick island friends.

The night I find myself at Lolo’s, there are 13 of us at the table: six Canadians, five Americans, and two Brits. What we all have in common is a love of Isla Mujeres, and a sense of excitement about the food we are about to consume. With two options for each course, no one is disappointed. Lolo has even created a special menu for me, a vegetarian. After weeks of Mexican rice and black beans, I am treated to rich flavors in a custom green bean, tomato, potato appetizer, three exquisite gnocchi (served with a tiny fork), tart and spicy Thai salad, and vegetable terrine, while others feast on lobster tail and crab legs, or decadent moussaka. For dessert, an embarrassment of riches: sorbet, candied nuts, an apple tart, meringue with cream and, for each of us, a delicate lollipop, made of a hard-candy-coated fresh grape.

As each course emerges from Lolo’s tiny kitchen, the conversation stops for a moment as the group oohs and ahhs in unison. Then, as each person takes a first tiny bite, the looks of shared pleasure cross the table, everyone smiles, and we dig in.

If you go: Lolo Lorena’s courtyard supper table is located on Rueda Medina on Isla Mujeres. It can be a bit tricky to find from the downtown tourist area, but you’ll need to contact Lolo to book your reservation, and she can give you detailed directions. You can reach Lolo by e-mail at lololorena@hotmail.com, and find her online at lololorena.com. Five-course meals are $30USD-$40USD per person (yes, really, for five courses!). To-die-for mojitos are $5, and you can bring your own wine.

By Christina Newberry

When you're travelling, especially if you're in a place where you don't speak the language very well, it can be difficult to find "authentic" places to eat – spots where you might actually see a local (and pay local prices). But on a recent trip to Mexico, I discovered an easy way to get a taste of cheap, local fare – check out the town square.

In the evenings, the town square in Isla Mujeres is a local gathering place. Framed by the local church, a basketball court, and the supermarket, it's the hub of activity, especially on Saturday evenings. Once dusk falls, the vendors emerge, selling food of every variety – some made right on the spot, and some carefully transported from home kitchens. We decided we had to make a meal of their creations.

After whetting our appetites with fresh-made tacos and Mexican-style corn on the cob, we approached a cart where a couple was hard at work. The woman was working dough with her hands and cooking it in oil while her husband, in a carnival-barker voice, called patrons over to have a look. We approached, and asked the man in our limited Spanish what his wife was making.

He answered in English: "Cheese and banana." This sounded like a decidedly un-Mexican dish, and a peculiar combination. Plus, we saw no sign of any bananas on or near the cart. I asked again, just to confirm that I'd heard correctly: "Cheese and banana?"

The man nodded vigorously: "Si, cheese and banana." Well, we figured, we might as well give it a try. For 10 pesos (about US$1), how could we go wrong? We gave the man our coins, and he handed over one of the hot, doughy creations. I took a bite. There was cheese, yes, but definitely no banana. Puzzled, but loving whatever it was we were eating, we gobbled up our gooey treat. As I took the last bite, I finally realized what it was, and what the vendor had really been saying: Not cheese and banana, but cheese empanada!

We rounded out that night's enormous meal with sweet Mexican bread and deep-fried bananas with cream. It wasn't exactly a health-conscious meal, but it was local, delicious, and cheap – the grand total for two: $6. Rubbing our bellies contentedly, we walked home along the seawall. The next night, of course, we went back to the square – this time for churros and homemade flan.

If you try it:
Most street food items (from tacos, to flan, to those tasty empanadas) go for 10 to 20 pesos, depending on the size of the serving and how many tourists frequent the area (more tourists = higher prices). The servings look small, but they’re filling. If you want to try more than a few items, plan to share.

Photo Credits: "Real Deal Taco Stand" by JBlaze B; "Making Empanadas" by Chiot's Run; "Empanada" by bunnicula. All via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Christina Newberry

Mexico has an abysmal plastic recycling program. Combine this with the fact that tourists and locals alike down bottled water in huge quantities, and the end result is literally tons of plastic heading into landfills.

This problem inspired Rishi Sowa, a British ex-pat living on the Mexican island of Isla Mujeres to create an ecologically sensitive way to re-use plastic, creating his own mini-ecosystem in the process. The result is Spiral Island.

Anchored in Makax Lagoon, the 20-metre island is built on a base of 100,000 floating plastic bottles. With a house that includes a fully functional kitchen and bathroom, and even an office space with solar- and wind-powered laptop station, Sowa sees the island as a model method for making housing out of trash.

Sowa lives on the island full time and offers tours on a donation basis.

Our tour started with a short ride from the dock to the island on a hand-built raft-style boat, which is also made from plastic bottles. As we stepped down on to the island, Sowa warned us that it wouldn't quite feel like terra firma – the floating bottles give the entire island a little bit of bounce. Once we had our island legs, Sowa explained how he's using quick-growing mangroves and other plants to stabilize the island, clean the air, and generally help to minimize the damage done by all the plastic we consume.

As we walked around the island, Sowa showed off his prototype for a wave- and solar-powered clothes washing system – just one of his island inventions. Another neat trick is the tin-can-style telephone he's made using conch shells, so visitors in what will eventually be an upstairs guest bedroom can call down to the kitchen for breakfast. The shower and taps are conch shells, and the toilet is a self-composting system that uses woodchips to neutralise odours and germs.

Solar panels on the island generate enough electricity to power Sowa's laptop, lights, and kitchen appliances. He ended the tour by sharing some of his home-made island ice cream.

The island in Mexico is Sowa's second attempt at plastic-bottle island living. The first Spiral Island, anchored near Puerto Aventuras, lasted for seven years before being destroyed by a hurricane. With the new island tethered in a more sheltered lagoon, Sowa hopes it can become a permanent installation, and then become a model for economically and ecologically sound housing for and society that has water nearby or suffers from flooding.

Seeing Spiral Island is one thing – but the real benefit of the tour is picking Sowa's brain. He's part mad scientist, part "eco-pioneer."

If you go:

Spiral Island is not a typical tourist stop, and you won't find it on any day-trip agenda. In fact, the island may have moved by the time you try to find it – when we were there Sowa was in the process of securing permission to move the island further from shore. (The island is licensed as a boat, and right now it's secured to a dock very close to land – close enough that his cat was able to escape through the mangrove roots and come back with kittens in her belly.)

For now, Spiral Island is anchored in Makax Lagoon, at a dock near the Dolphin Discovery pavilion. Your best bet to find the island if it's moved is to check in at the Pocna hostel (15 Matamoros Ave, Isla Mujeres), where one of the staff members should be able to direct you to it. Or, just stop by the Sunset Grill on North Beach (Av. Rueda Medina, Condominios Nautibeach) on a Sunday night and ask the guitar player – it's Sowa himself. After all, even an eco-pioneer has to earn a living.

All photos ©Christina Newberry

By Christina Newberry

If you want to take advantage of the cheap charter flights to Cancun, but the mega-resorts of the Cancun strip fit neither your budget nor your travel style, Isla Mujeres may be the answer to your travel prayers.

Isla Mujeres is a small island a short ferry ride from Cancun. But it's worlds away from the all-inclusive resort glitz that has taken over the Cancun strip. A trip to Isla really feels like a trip to Mexico, and there's a magic to the island that's difficult to put into words. It's the reason why almost every traveller you meet on the island will tell you they've come back there time and time again, and why my recent visit – my first – will certainly not by my last.

Even before you hit the beach on Isla, you'll be dazzled by the incredible turquoise blue waters. They are literally breathtaking, and you'll never get used to how blue and clear they are, even by the end of your trip.

Where to stay on Isla Mujeres:

Isla Mujeres has an incredible hostel. There are many reasonably-priced hotels and private apartments on the island, but it would be hard to find one that rivals the value of the PocNa hostel, where dorm beds are available from 90 pesos (10 pesos = about $1), and private rooms from 240 pesos. For an even cheaper stay, camping spots are available for 60 pesos. The rate includes linens, towels, and even toast and coffee for breakfast.

The amazing secret at this hostel is private rooms 3 and 6, each of which has a small balcony overlooking the ocean. For 240 pesos, it's an unbelievable deal.

The hostel is clean and well-run, with a central courtyard full of tables and hammocks, plus sand going right down to the beach.

Check out the hostel's web site at www.pocna.com.

What to do on Isla Mujeres:

Isla Mujeres is known for its amazing beaches.

Playa Norte (North Beach) is easy walking distance from the hostel. It's a beautiful, peaceful beach, with white sand and crystal-blue waters. It's never too crowded, and there are lots of palm trees if you want to get a little bit of shade. There are 3 beach bars with swings and hammocks that are a great place to get a quick snack or a great piña colada. Happy hour starts at 1pm, when you can get two beers for 40 pesos, or two mixed drinks for 50.

There are beach chairs and umbrellas available for rent from the beachfront hotels, but the sand is soft, so bring your towel and you won't miss having a chair. For a last-day indulgence, try renting one of the beach beds with billowing curtains for 100 pesos for the day.

If you're looking for a bit more action at the beach, check out Northwest beach. It's also within walking distance of the hostel, though not quite as close as North Beach. It's got volleyball nets where pickup games seem common, and the beach bars pump out music much louder than on North Beach.

For a day away from the beach, rent a moped (250 pesos) or a golf cart (450 pesos) and drive to the Southern tip of the island. There's a small Mayan ruin, and beautiful cliffs where you can really see how amazing the water is. Nearby there's a turtle hatchery, as well as Garrafón Reef Park. At Garrafón you can swim with the dolphins or ride a zip line over the water, but the prices are aimed at Cancun tourists, so a day a Garrafón costs more than a week at the hostel. Still, it's worth driving by to take a look at the zipline and, again, the incredible water.

Drive back along the Caribbean side of the island for more amazing views.

Where to Eat on Isla Mujeres:

The main few streets of Isla Mujeres form a bustling little town, and at night it turns into a network of sidewalk cafés closed to all traffic. Street performers juggle or play music, and there is just a magical feeling in the air.

Take a walk through the town and you're sure to find something to suit your taste, no matter what your taste may be. I'm vegetarian, and had no problem eating well on Isla.

The best place on the Island for breakfast or lunch is Elements of the Island. It's a café with apartments up top and yoga sessions on the roof. Their food isn't cheap by Mexican standards, but it's all organic and totally delicious. Their homemade jam will blow your mind. A full breakfast including coffee and fresh orange juice runs at about 75 pesos.

For dinner, the best place in town – especially if you're vegetarian – is Comono. It's a Mediterranean restaurant run by an Israeli couple, and the food is out of this world. If you're on a tight budget, get the Mediterranean platter. For only 150 pesos, it's a full meal for two people, and beer is only 30 pesos a pop.

While I was in Isla, Comono featured the live music of Jesus Campuzano. If this amazing musician isn't still playing at Comono, you must ask around and track him down. With nothing more than a keyboard and a loop sampler, he makes incredible music that literally has people dancing in the streets. The one souvenir of Isla I brought home was a copy of his CD, and it's in high rotation on the iPod.

If you're watching every penny, have a few meals at the hostel. You can top up your breakfast toast and jam with an omelet for only 15 pesos, and they offer dinner specials each night for about 65 pesos, which includes one drink.

Nightlife on Isla Mujeres:

For the budget traveller, nightlife takes place at the hostel. The main restaurant/bar is open until 11pm, when the party moves to the beach bar. Drinks at either spot are 40 pesos for two cocktails, or 20 pesos for a beer. The beach bar features a DJ most nights, and live music on Sundays. There's even a wooden dance floor built into the sand.

Getting to Isla Mujeres:

Isla's an inexpensive and easy trip from Cancun airport, as long as you take the right transportation.

When you arrive in Cancun, head to the ADO bus stop. Purchase a ticket to the "Centro" bus station (35 pesos). The bus is comfortable, safe, and air conditioned, so don't be tempted by the more expensive cabs.

The bus station is about 25 minutes away form the airport. If you've arrived late, you may want to stay overnight in Cancun before continuing to the ferry. If so, the Hostel Meson de Tulum is walking distance from the bus station. It's nothing fancy, but with dorm beds from 100 pesos, or a private room for 300 pesos, it's a clean and safe place to spend the night. Booking is available through hostelworld.com.

To get to the ferry from either the bus station or the hostel, flag one of the many cabs in the area. The trip to the ferry should cost 40 – 60 pesos. Make sure the cab driver takes you to Puerto Juarez, where you get the ferry to Isla Mujeres for 70 pesos round trip.

After a 20-minute ferry ride (our trip featured live musicians on the upper outdoor deck), you'll be on Isla. The hostel is easy walking distance, even with a suitcase or pack. Ask directions to the PocNa Hostel, or to North Beach, which will get you headed in the right direction. To get back to Cancun, do the entire trip in reverse.

Repeat:

Once you've been to Isla, you'll return to Isla. I talked to one American who had been coming to the island for 15 years, and a couple of Canadians who had made it their regular travel destination for about 10 years. Almost everyone I spoke with was on at least their third trip there.

It really is a magical place, and you won't want to leave – at least not forever. So be prepared, if you go to Isla Muejeres, you may have a new travel destination for life.

Photo Credits: Photos are ©Christina Newberry unless specified below.

Isla Mujeres Palm & Coconuts by mikemcholm; poc-na by dolanh; Isla Mujeres Pier II by mikemcholm. Images via Flickr (Creative Commons).