By Helena Iveson

Ah, Venice. The city which has enough romance and magic to entrance even the most hard bitten of tourists, travel fiends who've been around the block more times than you've had hot dinners. But while mind-blowing beauty is on every calle corner, tourists whom are entranced by anything served up at the city's notoriously bad and pricey restaurants are rarer than a cheerful gondolier.

Then Il Ridotto opened on the lively Campo SS. Filippo, and Venice-bound gourmets now have a dining destination that is as much an attraction as the churches and grand squares. If you're organised enough to book way ahead at this intimate and stylish restaurant run by Gianni Bonaccorsi (there are just 6 tables), you'll enjoy Venetian art on your plate.

The chef personally welcomes you to his pared-back refuge from the crowds and visits each table to explain the menu which changes daily, depending on what he found at the city's Rialto Market. After an amuse-bouche of a perfectly plump prawn on a bed of truffled mashed potato, the first course arrived without any fuss, and when we tasted the fabulously rich homemade tagliolini with a surprisingly light Fassone beef ragu, the fireworks began. The secondo (which incidentally is the same size as the first so pace yourself) was squid stuffed with scampi and prawns in a clam sauce and was as colourful as a Venetian carnival mask.

For dessert, the deliciousness of the chocolate tart with its oozing soft centre kept us digging in, even though we were as stuffed as the squid, and after that it was a pleasure to sit back at our table by the window and sit, Murano glass in hand, and have an unobstructed view of the kitchen at work. It was just Bonaccorsi and a younger apprentice, and there was no Gordon Ramsey-style theatrics, but instead a calmness and creativity at play that set the tone for the rest of the restaurant. Our bill for two was €100 with half a bottle of wine: for Venice and for this quality, that was a bargain.

Il Ridotto
4509 Castello, Campo SS Fillippo, Venice, Italy 30122; Tel: +39 041 520 8280; Web: www.ilridotto.com.

Photo Credits: Venetian Gondolas via iStockPhoto.com, Il Ridotto via www.ilridotto.com.

By Helena Iveson

"This is the Roman way, don't worry," Italian chef Daniela del Balzo said cheerfully, as she reversed her Fiat 500 the wrong way up a one-way street. Not that she could really see out of the window anyway, as the boot was full of delicious goodies that we were taking back to her stylish apartment in a ritzy area on Aventine Hill near the Colosseum to cook for lunch.

Daniela's irreverent charm made the time we spent with her, learning to buy and cook as real Romans do, the highlight of a recent trip to Rome. We'd just spent an hour in Testaccio Market, where generations of Italians have gone to shop since it opened in the 1800s, sniffing, tasting and elbowing the weak out the way to get the freshest and most perfect food possible.

The neighbourhood is a working-class stronghold known as Rome's stomach – it is here that you would have once found the city's slaughterhouses, but they've been closed down and transformed into chi-chi art galleries and apartments as the area undergoes galloping gentrification. Daniela explained that she'd recently taken celebrity chef Gary Rhodes around the market and he'd been poking and prodding the produce just like any good Roman housewife.

The market's 50 or so stalls include the freshest glistening fish on display at a fishmongers that proudly displays a picture of Italian legend Marcello Mastroianni, the stall holder's cousin; picture-perfect fruit and vegetables such as shredded chicory and ready-trimmed artichokes that looked as though they were dug out the ground that morning; plus one of the best selections of cheese, ham and meat that you will find in all of Italy.

After lugging our bags into Daniela's apartment, over espresso and biscotti and with Italian opera on in the background, she talked us through the menu which included both local and Neapolitan dishes from her hometown.

While Daniela poured us a generous glass of prosecco, we made some snacks to get us in the mood: bruschetta and prunes wrapped in bacon, a rich courgette frittata and slices of Bresaola topped with ricotta cheese and arugula. Daniela encouraged us to taste, seasoning and pouring on extra-virgin olive oil at will, which had been made from groves at her family's holiday home in Abruzzo. Then we started on our pasta course of fettuccine with artichokes and pasta with Broccolo Romano. The thought of the last dish did make my heart sink as the vegetable was described as a combination of broccoli and cauliflower which aren't exactly must-orders for me, but once it was braised with anchovies and made creamy with pecorino, I could have licked the bowl.

Our main course was Involtini alla Romana, strips of veal rolled up with prosciutto and celery and braised in a white wine and marjoram sauce. Oh, and tiramisu to finish, followed by more coffee, biscotti and chocolates. Or at least I think that's where we finished, as Daniela generously topped up our wine whenever we weren't looking.

After we bade farewell, with heartfelt kisses and thanks and promises to come again, we walked - or rather staggered - down Aventine Hill armed with our recipes, feeling like we didn't need to eat again until we next returned to Rome.

Testaccio Market is open everyday bar Sunday from 6.30am – 2pm.
For more details of Daniela's Cookery School contact Context Travel (www.contexttravel.com).

Bridget Randolph, founder of luxury swimwear company Kiribati London, shares her travel highs and lows, tips and experiences - from luxury in the Maldives to getting lost in Rome. Read on for a special iloho offer on her stunning collection of Kiribati swimwear.

The best holiday I've ever had was...
The Maldives, without a doubt. Diving with turtles, lounging in hammocks, sundowners on the beach... heaven! We stayed at the Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru (www.banyantree.com) on a secluded atoll in the Maldives archipelago.

If I could only recommend one place to see before you die it would be...
False Bay, South Africa. You can take a boat out and watch Great White Sharks feed. It's terrifying!

My one piece of travel advice is...
Pack light and do everything.

The best hotel I've ever stayed in is...
Hotel Costes (www.hotelcostes.com) in Paris. I was lucky enough to discover it before it became so renowned, but it is still a dark, mysterious haven that oozes naughtiness!

And the worst hotel I've ever stayed in is...
I have stayed in many truly horrible places, but I suppose if a hotel isn't pretending to be what it's not you can't really be disappointed. I think the most cringy place I ever stayed was a hotel called Deerhurst Resort in Ontario which was more conference centre than hotel. It had me giggling for days because it was so similar to the resort used in Dirty Dancing.

For a perfect holiday I need these ingredients...
A backgammon board, a great book and enough time to get properly lost.

I always pack...
Sun cream and the phone number of a friend of a friend who lives where I'm going. It's the only true way to see a place.

This year I have travelled to...
My husband-to-be is Canadian so we always disappear to the freshwater lakes near Lake Muskoka in Ontario, Canada during the summer, which I really love. This year has also been the "Year of Weddings" for us so we have also been to Italy and France a spoiling amount!

Next year I'm dying to go to...
I'm a bit of a nature nerd at heart so next year I would love to go and do some scuba diving off Australia.

The worst travel experience I've ever had is... Ryanair stranded me overnight in Rome; I was travelling alone and couldn't speak Italian. Since then I have vowed both to learn Italian and never to fly with Ryanair again.

My ideal travel companion is... Tina Fey. Can you imagine how much fun you would have?

Visit Kiribati online now and get 10% off the collection with special code iloho753 (enter the code at checkout).

Launched in June 2009, the Kiribati London collection of bikinis and swimsuits has had immediate success and is currently available at Heidi Klein boutiques in London and will be at Holt Renfrew in Canada from December. Kiribati also ships worldwide via the website www.kiribati-london.com.

Photo credits: The Maldives by daniel pozo; Great White Shark by hermanusbackpackers; Muskoka Lakes by Mary.

Today, the people of Pisa will honour their patron saint, Saint Ranieri, by lighting some 70,000 lumini (small glass lanterns) in the city's palazzi, along its bridges, and in the towers, as well as floating thousands of candles on the River Arno. The candles and lanterns create an incredible spectacle of light.

The Luminara di San Ranieri happens every year on 16th June.

Photo Credit: Luminara di San Ranieri by fcaboni via Flickr (Creative Commons).