I was sent an email this morning asking for tips on travelling to the Sapa region in Vietnam. Sadly I've never been so deferred to a friend who went very recently and she came back with a goldmine of information. So good that it had to be shared!
So, here you go, the inside track on the stunning hill station of Sapa...
When to go to Sapa:
Avoid the winter months of January and February like the plague as the mountains are covered in fog making it impossible to see the surrounding area, which is the whole point of being there! April and May are meant to be good months as well as end of September and October. July and August is Sapa's rainy season so best avoided.
How to get to Sapa:
Fly into Hanoi and take the train up to Lao Cai, which is a nine hour overnight journey. On average there are three trains a night to Sapa departing from Hanoi station, so there are quite a few options to choose from.
If you are staying at the Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa, which is the best hotel in the area, then they have their own train which has a dining carriage and looks very comfortable. You can only book this if you are staying at the hotel.
The other option is the Fanxipan Express. This is a good and comfortable way to get to Sapa, although there's no dining carriage (the only train with a dining carriage on this route is the Victoria Express). There are four berths per carriage. If there are two of you travelling you will have to share with others unless you pay for all four berths to ensure privacy.
Pete Wilkes, Managing Director of Sapa Rooms, recommends the TSC train, the Livitrans train and the Hara train. He says these carriages all depart from Hanoi nightly between 7:30pm and 9:15pm, arriving in Lao Cai the following morning from 5:30am to 7:30am. These options are safe, secure, comfortable and clean, and come equipped with clean western toilets, air conditioning and lockable doors.
A four berth train ticket costs USD 37 per person one way and a two berth train ticket costs USD 85 per person one way.
Arriving in Sapa:
Once you arrive into Lao Cai there are people milling around to take you to Sapa which is about a 40 minute drive. Really watch out for touts and make sure that you buy your ticket from the driver once on the bus, otherwise you will end up paying over the odds.
Where to stay in Sapa:
Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa is a good hotel with swimming pool, spa and tennis court, as well as tour booking office on site. There is a restaurant and bar there (famous for its cheese fondue) so if you are looking to stay somewhere with all the comforts then I would recommend this, although the rates are a lot higher than anywhere else.
Tel: +84 43 9330318 (Speak to Ha – she is really helpful); Email: resa.sapa@victoriahotels.asia
Cha Pa Gardens is right in the centre of Sapa, by the market. It's very well located and a sweet place with just four decent sized rooms. The owner, Tommy, is married to a Vietnamese woman and they co-run it. Tommy can arrange for a local guide to take you on walks in the surrounding area, but as we were looking for a bit more depth to the tours and wanting to learn about the local culture, we ended up booking everything through the Victoria Sapa – but enjoy the lovely boutique style hotel.
Tel: +84 20 387 2907; Email: post@chapagarden.com; www.chapagarden.com
Sapa Rooms is the third recommended option. The hotel is run by Pete who was super helpful in sending through all the train options. He can book the train for you as well as all tours and activities. Sapa Rooms was closed when I went in January, but I walked past the hotel. It is right by the market and again in centre of town, but on the road and not set back like Cha Pa Gardens; I don’t think this would make any difference though and imagine service to be much better than at Cha Pa Gardens, which was a bit slack.
Tel: +84 (0)90 618 7883; Email: pete.wilkes@me.com / info@saparooms.com; www.saparooms.com
What to do in Sapa:
During the day, and if the weather is good, there is so much to do. There's lots of hiking, and although the trails can get quite busy with visitors we found a few treks that were less crowded. You are taken by local guides on these hikes, so also learn a lot about the local culture.
The top hikes are as follows. All of these hikes can be booked through Pete Wilkes at Sapa Rooms, who gives the profits back to the region's minority communities. All hikes can be customised to suit you, and his descriptions of them are as follows. Email pete.wilkes@me.com or call +84 (0)90 618 7883.
Cat Cat Village, 3km (difficulty - easy): This is the home of the H'mong minority tribe. During this hike you have the opportunity to meet and talk with locals to learn more about their daily life. There are many opportunities to purchase handicrafts direct from the local tribal community. The walk will take you to beautiful Cascade waterfall and the old French hydroelectric power station built over 100 years ago. You may choose to walk or catch a motorbike back to Sapa (2km). Cost: 180,000 VND per person.
Lao Chai and Tavan Villages (difficulty - medium): Walk along ancient buffalo trails between mountains and valleys and across rice paddies to arrive in the beautiful Lao Chai village. Along the way enjoy some of Vietnam's most breathtaking views of terraced rice fields. In Lao Chai village visit the H'mong people in their wooden and bamboo houses, experience daily life in the tribal villages which are set high in the mountains among pristine rice terraces and wild running rivers. Continue on to Tavan village home of the Day minority people. Meet the locals and pay a visit to the schools to distribute any gifts you may have brought from home. Here you will have many opportunities to purchase handicrafts direct from the local tribal community. Choose to return to Sapa on foot, jeep or motorbike. Cost: 420.000 VND per person includes lunch and your motorcycle ride.
Matra and Taphin villages (6 hours, 11km – includes home cooked lunch): First take either a jeep or motorbike ride 4km to visit the Black Hmong village of Matra which is set in a beautiful lush valley and famous for its picture perfect scenery. After this village, continue on the peaceful dirt road talking to locals until you reach the mountain village of Taphin - a traditional handy craft village and home to two different minorities; the Red Dzao and the Black H'mong. Have a picnic lunch in the village and take time to explore the village with your guide. Here there is an option to take a traditional Red Dzau hot bath with medicinal herbs. This is a great way to sooth tired muscles after trekking. Cost: 420,000 VND per person includes lunch and your motorcycle ride.
Ban Ho hot spring village (1 hour each way by jeep or motorbike, 4 hours trekking around Ban Ho village, includes home cooked lunch): If you want total isolation and dream of swimming in beautiful crystal clear rivers with local minority children surrounded by stunning scenery then this is the trek for you. Truly unforgettable, Ban Ho Village is worth the one hour jeep or motor bike journey to get there, as the village rewards visitors with stunning views and opportunities to discover the daily life of the ethnic Tay people. The trails and roads from Ban Ho also lead to the quiet Red Dao Village of Nam Toong and other ethnic communities, where you can enjoy the best of Northern Vietnam, such as deep valleys, amazing mountains and the friendliest people you can imagine. Cost: 650,000 VND per person, includes lunch and jeep or motorbike ride.
If you are going for longer than a weekend you may want to climb Fanxipan – any of the hotels can help arrange this for you.
Where to eat in Sapa:
There are some dodgy places and a few great ones; unfortunately we missed out on some as they were closed when we were there. My favourite, which is highly recommended, is Le Gecko. It is run by a great guy called Frederic. There is a pool table there, a terrace for eating outside, and if it's cold there is an open fire to sit next to inside. I recommend the mushroom pasta!
For more information about Vietnam, click here.
Photo Credits: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. All via Flickr (Creative Commons).
