We've all heard of sushi: fresh raw fish delicately sliced and placed over a bed of rice soaked in vinegar. It's the quintessential food that comes to mind as soon as Japan is mentioned, but I'm here to tell you that there is more. More than raw fish, more than an elaborate knife show at Benihana, more than avocados in a California roll. What follows are the lesser-seen delicacies of nihon ryōri (Japanese cuisine).
1. Nattō (納豆)
By strict definition, nattō is fermented soybeans. In practice, however, these little brown nuggets are the test of a foreigner's "Japaneseness". Each piece is bound by a pungent, sticky paste resembling a spider's web, making nattō an acquired taste (after living in Japan for two years I still can't stand it).
If it's your first day in a Japanese company and your co-workers offer to take you out to dinner, prepare to have natto thrust under your nose. The dish is usually accompanied by a polite phrase 召し上がってください (please do me the honour of eating this) that makes it impossible to refuse. Eat it quickly with rice and (try to) enjoy the rich protein.
2. Basashi (馬刺)
Shifting towards the meat end of the Japanese food spectrum we find basashi, a local specialty of the southern city of Kumamoto; it is raw horse meat dipped in soy sauce and often served with ginger and onions. The first time I sampled this dish I was fresh from an hour-long soak in a hot spring just north of the super-volcano Aso and eager for any kind of nourishment my lodging had to offer.
Ignoring the guilt brought on by memories of childhood rides through my native Texas, I raised the chopsticks to my mouth and slowly chewed. Although one might assume horse is tough and stringy, this dish was in fact quite tender and succulent.
3. Whale Meat
Although surrounded by controversy, the whaling industry remains alive and well in the land of the rising sun. Prevalent throughout Japanese history, whale meat really made its mark in post-war Japan when food supplies were stretched thin. Today canned meat and whale sashimi are widely available in shops and restaurants across Japan. If your conscience allows, give the blood red meat a try.
4. Takoyaki (たこ焼き)
Has there ever been a time when you were abroad and thought "thank god I understand the local language"? This happens to me whenever I see a takoyaki stand.
I know, I know, I should embrace the idea of sampling dishes across the world and broaden my palate with every taste imaginable, but still, tako (octopus) and I will always be sworn enemies.
Takoyaki is a perfectly spherical fried dumpling made of baby octopus, mayonnaise and batter. Japanese pop them into their mouths as easily as Westerners chew popcorn at the movies.
5. Ikizukuri, or “Eat it while it flops around”
I prefer to think of this as extremely fresh fish. In Japan, sashimi (sliced raw fish) is usually prepared in restaurants from a live animal, but served once quite inert. Ikizukuri is something very different. It often begins with a diner choosing a live fish, which a trained chef will then carefully slice up and present - the heart still beating as you take a bite.
6. Some like it hot
To understand this next style of cooking the importance of onsen (hot springs) in Japan has to be appreciated. While the art of the public bath has been waning in Western culture since the fall of the Roman Empire, in Japan it still flourishes, thanks to the country's active volcanoes. Hot spring culture has produced an amazing variety of products: special ramen, green tea, and champagne baths; stores stocking minerals and sulphur to recreate the hot springs experience at home.
In the small southern town of Beppu food is even prepared using the power of hot springs steam. Termed jigoku mushi, some of the more common steamed plates include pudding, dumplings, vegetables, and eggs; you can even order a hot chocolate made from hot springs water! Because the steam is seen as being clean and natural, it is believed that those who consume jigoku mushi will experience the same positive effects that come from a long soak: vitality, health, and longevity.
7. Shirako… you really don't want to know
Shirako might seem more suited to a reality TV show challenge than a list of delicacies. It is cod milt or, to put it bluntly, cod sperm. Enclosed by a thin sack, it is very tender and very gooey. Widely available, it can be eaten raw like sashimi or cooked like tempura.
8. What's that in my cake?
So you've been in Japan for a day or two, so far you've relied on Western chain restaurants and touristy sushi places for nourishment, but now realise that it's time to challenge your palette and discover the taste of "real Japan". But where to start? A restaurant serving infinite varieties of fish? A ramen shop? Why not try a bakery?
You'll see many familiar sights in a Japanese bakery: strawberry shortcake, chocolate cake, croissants. Alongside these old friends lie some mysterious looking cakes of various sizes and shapes. Curious, you take a bite. What just happened? Depending on the filling, you could have just consumed chocolate, cheese, green tea, or the mother of all Japanese fillings… red bean paste.
Red bean paste is available everywhere, from the largest supermarket in Osaka to a tiny convenience store on a remote island. It is the be-all and end-all of Japanese sweets, and it's unlikely you can spend a day in Japan without running into at least one confectionary filled with this soft, saccharine, powdery delight.
9. Squid Ink
If you're familiar with Mediterranean food, squid ink won't be unchartered culinary territory. For those of you who aren't the inky black discharge given off by squid might come as a shock mixed into your spaghetti or sushi. In Okinawa, the southernmost island of Japan, squid ink is used in a variety of dishes including squid ink soup.
10. Fugu (鰒)
If you feel like dicing with death in Japan forget launching yourself in front of a morning train in Tokyo station and order a serving of fugu.
This Japanese blowfish is mainly eaten for the thrill rather than the flavour. It is quite inedible, and can be lethally poisonous, save a few pieces of flesh which are meticulously excised by a licensed chef. Not to worry, even though the poison produced by the blowfish is deadlier than cyanide, chefs are trained for seven years before being allowed to use their skills professionally. No-one has ever died from eating fugu in Shimonoseki, where the fish is said to be the freshest and most delicious.
Try it raw, baked, boiled, or even served in sake (just the tail, though). If you're not up for the real thing, you can buy chocolates and toys shaped like blowfish in Shimonoseki.
Those with strong stomachs can see a Japanese chef preparing fugu here:
Photos (all via Flickr / Creative Commons): 1. Natto by jasja dekker 2. basashi by shrk 3. Whale meat curry by Animals in Japan 4. Takoyaki – Asatsuki by avlxyz 6. Beppu – Steam-powered kitchen by knaakle 7. Sushi - Shirako by puss_in_boots 8. Japan 2007 166.4 by mesozoic 9. Squid Ink Soup by hostelmanagement 10. fugu nigiri by selva.
