By Ross Bowers

Morocco made me slightly hesitant to go on another holiday in an Arab country – the happy snaps look idyllic, but they don't reveal the heat, hassle, snorting and swindling going on just out of shot. Nevertheless, I was intrigued by Petra and the Dead Sea and thought a trip to Jordan was an opportunity not to be missed.

Travelling with two pretty girls added to my trepidation about heading back to North Africa as I adopted the self-aggrandising role of guardian of the two blondes.

'Would you like to buy a necklace for your tall wife?'

'No thank you very much'

'How about for your short wife?'

Confused and envious eyes followed me everywhere and I was on red alert for phlegm assaults, pick pockets and devious taxi drivers. I was worrying unnecessarily – the girls are tougher than me, the Jordanian people are kind and honest, and the country is clean and well organised. The best bit about travelling to Jordan is that most of the sights can be covered in a week; the tourist circuit is fairly well trodden so getting around is easy and there are always people to share transport with.

We landed in the bustling metropolis of Amman, spending a couple of nights there whilst visiting the ancient ruins at Jerash before hotfooting it down to Petra along the King's Highway, a rich chain of historical and archaeological sites. We stopped at Madaba, the 'City of Mosaics', Mount Nebo (which, according to the final chapter of Deuteronomy, is where Moses was given a view of the Promised Land), and the fortified town and castle of Karak.

Petra alone makes the trip to Jordan worthwhile; one of the seven wonders of the modern world, it is a vast city, carved into the red rock by the Nabataeans more than 2,000 years ago. It was an important hub for the silk, spice and other trade routes that linked China, India and southern Arabia with Egypt, Syria, Greece and Rome.

Since Petra was featured in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, the locals have gone a little Indiana crazy with most stalls offering some sort of Harrison Ford souvenirs. But it is hard not to be transported to another era as speeding horses gallop past, weaving their way through colonnaded streets to the treasury, temples, sacrificial altars and eventually the Monastery up 800 rock cut steps. Camels and donkeys provide every opportunity for some amusing photos along the way.

Next stop was the desert and towering rock formations of Wadi Rum - Lawrence of Arabia's headquarters during the Arab Revolt against the Ottomans (1917 – 1918). Here we experienced our first bit of swindling.

Wadi Rum itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is actually a fenced reserve. Several tour operators however, take you just outside of the site, put you up in sub-standard tented camps and drive you around in jeeps pretending that you are in the real Wadi Rum. Thankfully they are so convincing that we enjoyed the experience in blissful ignorance – only realising later that we had visited 'not-quite-Wadi Rum'. Our suspicions were only aroused when we realised that we were the only guests staying in our tented camp.

The next day we witnessed the breathtaking beauty of the Dana Nature Reserve (where the Feynan Eco Lodge and project is excellent) en route to two nights at the Marriott Dead Sea Resort and Spa for the luxury finale to the holiday.

The lowest point on earth, the Dead Sea, is a marvel – the health benefits of the sea itself and the mud are well known and we quickly covered ourselves in mud and floated whilst reading a newspaper. Hours of amusement: until you get sea water in your eyes.

I tried out the most unique Dead Sea treatment I could find, a mud / wrap / flotation, which turned out to be the worst hour of my life. I was greeted by a large Jordanian man, given a pathetic pair of paper undies, covered in mud, wrapped in cling film and then engulfed in a human-sized hot water bottle with only my head sticking out for air. Large Jordanian man then left so that I could 'relax' / suffer from acute claustrophobia. It was so hot that the mud and sweat dripped in to my eyes and since I was in a cling film straight-jacket there wasn't much I could do about it.

After that experience I decided to stick to eating and drinking. Just about any cuisine is available in Jordan, and if you can avoid the drive through Starbucks there are some great dishes to try out. I particularly enjoyed the Mansaf, which is a Bedouin dish consisting of rice, a rich broth made from dry sour milk (jameed), and either lamb or chicken. Simple, but tasty.

On our final morning, the maître d' welcomed us to breakfast with a cheerful 'It's nice to be here', um – I think you mean 'It's nice to have you here', but it was nice to be there - Jordan is an amazing country where you can relax and enjoy a real sense of adventure and cultural learning at the same time.

Photos by Ross Bowers, except Bedouin Man by hazy jenius, Wadi Rum by Tbass Effendi and Dead Sea Reflection by Mr. Kris via Flickr.