By Christina Newberry

The Internet can be a fickle ally when it comes to planning adventures. You can find amazing deals, but you can also get yourself into hot water by booking with a shady company or hotel. Or, you can have your heart broken bit by bit as you discover perfect place after perfect place to stay that just happen to be way beyond your travel budget.

This last scenario happened to me when I came across the website for Azulik, an "ecoresort" in Tulum, Mexico. The concept is magical – large, private cabanas overlooking the roaring surf, with soaker tubs on every balcony. At Azulik the eco-resort concept means no electricity, no phone, and no air conditioning, but the indoor and outdoor tubs promise plenty of hot water. And you can summon a staff member to take your room service order by raising a flag at your cabana's front door. The online pictures are stunning. I was smitten.

The only problem? Rooms start at US$325 per night. On a trip that was built around hostel stays and self-catering apartments at a tenth of that price, Azulik was simply out of reach. I cursed at the picture of a woman lounging in an outdoor soaking tub, overlooking the sea below.

And then – oh, and then – I noticed the small link on Azulik's homepage pointing to current specials. Among other deals, I found the one that would cure my heartbreak – 60% off regular rates for booking a room within 24 hours of arrival. With a month in Mexico and no set plans of where I had to be and when, this option was workable. Yes!

Soon, my partner and I found ourselves settling in for three nights in the honeymoon suite. Regularly priced at US$350 per night, the 60% discount brought it to US$140 per night: still not budget accommodation, but within the realm of the reasonable. With a king-sized bed draped in a lovely mosquito net, plus hanging beds and soaker tubs carved from large trees both inside and outside, it was stunning. I got myself into that soaking tub as soon as I could – now I was the woman in the picture I had seen online. Bliss!

As we eased into the vibe of the place, I took advantage of the free morning yoga classes, got used to evenings lit only by candlelight, and continued to be blown away by our good fortune. I even came to appreciate the iguanas who were on constant watch on the cliffs below (except the one who skittered into the room to lick jam off the remains of a breakfast tray). As I relaxed, I started to warm up to the idea of leaving my swimsuit behind and hitting the beach below.

Ah, yes – Azulik has a clothing-optional beach (it is, in fact, a clothing-optional resort). Raised in a straight-laced protestant home, I never pictured myself frolicking naked in the waves (a long-time Vancouver resident, I've never even ventured near Wreck Beach, our local clothing-optional haunt). But as Mexican time took hold and the eco-resort atmosphere seeped into my soul, I found myself throwing caution to the wind. In the crashing surf, bare as the day I was born, looking up at our cabana on the clifftop, I realised – life is simple; life is good.

IF YOU GO

Azulik is the most luxurious of three properties that make up EcoTulum Resorts and Spa. Copal offers mid-range accommodations, and Zahra caters to the budget traveller. All have direct beach access. Copal and Azulik are clothing-optional.

Where: Tulum, Mexico.

Cost: High season (Nov. 15 to April 30 and July 15 – Aug. 31): US$40 per night for a basic no-bath cabana at Zahra up to US$350 per night for the luxurious honeymoon suite at Azulik. Online specials can save you 20% – 60%.

Contacts: The resort's main site, www.ecotulum.com, offers information on all three properties. For individual properties, visit www.azulik.com, www.cabanascopal.com and www.zahra.com.mx.

Photo Credits: Images by Christina Newberry, except 'Azulik, Doce' by jason_chinn via Flickr.

By Christina Newberry

Chichen Itza, an ancient Mayan city on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula is one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. Every day, thousands of tourists flock to the site to witness the grandiose architecture of the Mayan people. But twice a year, Chichen Itza is more than just an archaeological site. On the spring and fall equinoxes, Chichen Itza becomes a magical place, when the Mayan serpent god Kulkulkan appears in full view on the pyramid that bears his name.

Kulkulkan's appearance is a marvel of Mayan engineering. The Kulkulkan pyramid, also known as "El Castillo", is constructed so that for just one hour, only twice a year, the angle of the sun is exactly right for the shadows to form the image of a feathered serpent descending the west wall of the temple. This serpent is the Mayan god Kulkulkan.

On March 21, the spring equinox, I hopped on a bus packed full with other travellers hoping to catch a glimpse of the ancient god in the present day. The night before, there had been a storm. Water fell from the sky like nothing I had ever seen before, and wild winds rattled the windows. With the spring equinox coming, it seemed nature was throwing her weight around, making sure we were all paying attention to the changing of the seasons.

And so, as we began our long, hot ride to the archaeological site, we were all nervous – the clouds were out, and we had all witnessed first-hand what could come from those clouds. Since Kulkulkan's appearance is based on the position of the sun and the formation of shadows, we were hopeful but not certain that we would see him on this, our only opportunity.

After exploring the site, we all gathered in front of the pyramid – hot, sweaty, and thirsty from the intense heat despite the gray sky – holding our breath to see what would happen. Some people burned incense. Others prayed – to Kulkulkan or to another god, I'm not sure. The serpent started to form, there were breaks of sun, and 70,000 visitors cheered in unison. But then the sun slipped behind a solid, massive cloud, and it looked like our hopes of seeing Kulkulkan in his full form had been dashed.

The crowd started to break up, but thousands of us refused to budge, hoping against hope that there would be a break in the huge cloud – just for a moment. A few times, the sun shone dimly through, and we could get an idea of what we were missing. The pale outline of Kulkulkan was visible, and this only made us want the full experience even more.

And then, finally, it happened. From behind an impossibly huge, thick, solid cloud, the sun appeared. And there was Kulkulkan, perfectly formed, just as he would have been 1,500 years ago when there were Mayans living at Chichen Itza. Everyone's arms flew into the air together, as we thanked the Mayans (and maybe their gods) for giving us this incredible gift.

Then, suddenly, as if to emphasize the changing of the seasons that Kulkulkan's presence signifies, the skies opened up, and with the sun still shining, it started to rain.

Photo Credits: Christina Newberry and newpn2000 (via Flickr).

By Christina Newberry

Mexico has an abysmal plastic recycling program. Combine this with the fact that tourists and locals alike down bottled water in huge quantities, and the end result is literally tons of plastic heading into landfills.

This problem inspired Rishi Sowa, a British ex-pat living on the Mexican island of Isla Mujeres to create an ecologically sensitive way to re-use plastic, creating his own mini-ecosystem in the process. The result is Spiral Island.

Anchored in Makax Lagoon, the 20-metre island is built on a base of 100,000 floating plastic bottles. With a house that includes a fully functional kitchen and bathroom, and even an office space with solar- and wind-powered laptop station, Sowa sees the island as a model method for making housing out of trash.

Sowa lives on the island full time and offers tours on a donation basis.

Our tour started with a short ride from the dock to the island on a hand-built raft-style boat, which is also made from plastic bottles. As we stepped down on to the island, Sowa warned us that it wouldn't quite feel like terra firma – the floating bottles give the entire island a little bit of bounce. Once we had our island legs, Sowa explained how he's using quick-growing mangroves and other plants to stabilize the island, clean the air, and generally help to minimize the damage done by all the plastic we consume.

As we walked around the island, Sowa showed off his prototype for a wave- and solar-powered clothes washing system – just one of his island inventions. Another neat trick is the tin-can-style telephone he's made using conch shells, so visitors in what will eventually be an upstairs guest bedroom can call down to the kitchen for breakfast. The shower and taps are conch shells, and the toilet is a self-composting system that uses woodchips to neutralise odours and germs.

Solar panels on the island generate enough electricity to power Sowa's laptop, lights, and kitchen appliances. He ended the tour by sharing some of his home-made island ice cream.

The island in Mexico is Sowa's second attempt at plastic-bottle island living. The first Spiral Island, anchored near Puerto Aventuras, lasted for seven years before being destroyed by a hurricane. With the new island tethered in a more sheltered lagoon, Sowa hopes it can become a permanent installation, and then become a model for economically and ecologically sound housing for and society that has water nearby or suffers from flooding.

Seeing Spiral Island is one thing – but the real benefit of the tour is picking Sowa's brain. He's part mad scientist, part "eco-pioneer."

If you go:

Spiral Island is not a typical tourist stop, and you won't find it on any day-trip agenda. In fact, the island may have moved by the time you try to find it – when we were there Sowa was in the process of securing permission to move the island further from shore. (The island is licensed as a boat, and right now it's secured to a dock very close to land – close enough that his cat was able to escape through the mangrove roots and come back with kittens in her belly.)

For now, Spiral Island is anchored in Makax Lagoon, at a dock near the Dolphin Discovery pavilion. Your best bet to find the island if it's moved is to check in at the Pocna hostel (15 Matamoros Ave, Isla Mujeres), where one of the staff members should be able to direct you to it. Or, just stop by the Sunset Grill on North Beach (Av. Rueda Medina, Condominios Nautibeach) on a Sunday night and ask the guitar player – it's Sowa himself. After all, even an eco-pioneer has to earn a living.

All photos ©Christina Newberry

By Christina Newberry

Isla Holbox (pronounced hole-bosh) is a small island located on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula, about three hours from Cancun by bus. It's best known as a place to swim with whale sharks – the world's largest fish – from June to September. At over 12 metres long and weighing up to 13 tonnes, whale sharks are the largest fish on earth – but since they only eat plankton, they pose no danger to swimmers.

For the rest of the year, Isla Holbox is simply a place to relax. With a population of less than 2,000 people, streets paved with sand, and no cars, it really is a world apart from any tourist locale. You often look around to realise that while you're surrounded by pelicans, there are no other humans in sight. If you've ever wanted to indulge a desert island fantasy, this is the place to do it. Read on for a travel guide to Isla Holbox...

Where to stay on Isla Holbox:

The entire island is a working fishing site, so all stretches of beach are full of moored fishing boats, and there are tons of pelicans gobbling up the abundant fish. None of the beaches are as nice as those you'll find in the Caribbean (the island's waters are part of the Gulf of Mexico), but you'll often have them all to yourself.

One stretch of beach has become known as Isla Holbox’s Hotel Zone. It's a cluster of resorts, many made up of luxurious cabañas. The hotels charge in American dollars, with prices starting at $75 per night and going up to over $180 (much more during whale shark season).

An excellent low-cost alternative is the Ida y Vuelta campsite, located just behind the hotel zone, about 200 metres from the beach. Ida y Vuelta offers camping spots for $7 per person, beds in a shared cabana for $11 per person, or a private cabana for $45 (all prices are mid-season rates). With an excellent communal kitchen, hammocks all over the place, and the cleanest hostel-style bathroom I've ever seen, it's a wonderful way to make the most of Holbox's charms and make some new friends at the same time.

What to do on Isla Holbox:

Truthfully, unless you're there for the whale sharks, Isla Holbox is all about not doing much at all. Island life is slow and laid back, and nothing in town really beats an afternoon spent in a hammock. That said, renting bicycles and riding around the island is an excellent way to spend an afternoon. For 80 pesos (less than $6) you can rent a bike for 24 hours. The bikes have some salt damage, no gears, and foot brakes, but they'll get you where you're going (and you won't be going far – the entire island is only 40 km long and 2 km wide.)

If you are there during whale shark season, just about anyone on the island can put you in touch with a tour operator. Most of the snorkelling tours are operated by local fishermen, who cherish the whale sharks and conduct their tours in ways that don't disturb the breeding and migration of the big fish. All-day snorkel tours are available for around $80 per person.

Riding, bird-watching, and crocodile watching is also available on the island, and from May to August there are tours to see nesting sea turtles on a pristine beach. All of these tours are available through Mextreme Travel.

Where to Eat on Isla Holbox:

Isla Holbox has a large population of Italian immigrants, and the cuisine on the island is overwhelmingly Italian. Almost every restaurant serves up pasta, risotto, and other Italian specialities – and prices are not that much less that what you would expect to find in an Italian restaurant in any major North American city. Both Los Pelícanos and La Cueva del Pirata offer excellent homemade pasta in the town's main square.

Of course, as a fishing village, Isla Holbox also has excellent seafood – and it couldn't be fresher. It's rare for a fish to be more than 24 hours from catch to plate. The Buena Vista offers excellent grilled fish only a few feet from the beach. Some days, the beach bars offer fish straight from the boats that moor out front.

For a taste of Mexican food, start off the day with empanadas from Empanadas la Conquista or just buy a stack of fresh tortillas from the local tortilleria.

Getting to Isla Holbox:

Isla Holbox has remained tranquil for a reason – it's a bit of a trek to get there. From Cancun, take the bus to Chiquila. It's about a three-hour trip, and since there's no exit to Chiquila from the toll highway, only second-class buses make the run. The second-class buses stop often to pick up passengers and drop them off, and they have no onboard toilet. The highway has more speedbumps than you'd ever expect a highway to have. The point is, it's not luxurious – but it's safe, and you will get there in one piece.

From Chiquila, take a ferry across the lagoon to Isla Holbox. It's a 20-minute crossing that runs nine times per day. If you've booked with Ida y Vuelta, there will likely be a friendly face waiting to meet you at the ferry dock. You can take a golf-cart taxi to your hotel or the campground if you have lots of luggage, but it's only a 10 to 15 minute walk to the hotel zone. You can access the Chiquila - Holbox ferry schedule here.

Relax:

It's not often that you'll be able to see vast stretches of beach populated only by birds and fish. Take it all in and let the vibe of Isla Holbox wash over you. When it's time to leave, you'll be surprised by just how mellow you've become.

Photo Credits: All images ©Christina Newberry unless credited below.

Whale Sharks via iStockPhoto.com; Isla de Holbox by Not all potatoes can swim... via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Christina Newberry

If you want to take advantage of the cheap charter flights to Cancun, but the mega-resorts of the Cancun strip fit neither your budget nor your travel style, Isla Mujeres may be the answer to your travel prayers.

Isla Mujeres is a small island a short ferry ride from Cancun. But it's worlds away from the all-inclusive resort glitz that has taken over the Cancun strip. A trip to Isla really feels like a trip to Mexico, and there's a magic to the island that's difficult to put into words. It's the reason why almost every traveller you meet on the island will tell you they've come back there time and time again, and why my recent visit – my first – will certainly not by my last.

Even before you hit the beach on Isla, you'll be dazzled by the incredible turquoise blue waters. They are literally breathtaking, and you'll never get used to how blue and clear they are, even by the end of your trip.

Where to stay on Isla Mujeres:

Isla Mujeres has an incredible hostel. There are many reasonably-priced hotels and private apartments on the island, but it would be hard to find one that rivals the value of the PocNa hostel, where dorm beds are available from 90 pesos (10 pesos = about $1), and private rooms from 240 pesos. For an even cheaper stay, camping spots are available for 60 pesos. The rate includes linens, towels, and even toast and coffee for breakfast.

The amazing secret at this hostel is private rooms 3 and 6, each of which has a small balcony overlooking the ocean. For 240 pesos, it's an unbelievable deal.

The hostel is clean and well-run, with a central courtyard full of tables and hammocks, plus sand going right down to the beach.

Check out the hostel's web site at www.pocna.com.

What to do on Isla Mujeres:

Isla Mujeres is known for its amazing beaches.

Playa Norte (North Beach) is easy walking distance from the hostel. It's a beautiful, peaceful beach, with white sand and crystal-blue waters. It's never too crowded, and there are lots of palm trees if you want to get a little bit of shade. There are 3 beach bars with swings and hammocks that are a great place to get a quick snack or a great piña colada. Happy hour starts at 1pm, when you can get two beers for 40 pesos, or two mixed drinks for 50.

There are beach chairs and umbrellas available for rent from the beachfront hotels, but the sand is soft, so bring your towel and you won't miss having a chair. For a last-day indulgence, try renting one of the beach beds with billowing curtains for 100 pesos for the day.

If you're looking for a bit more action at the beach, check out Northwest beach. It's also within walking distance of the hostel, though not quite as close as North Beach. It's got volleyball nets where pickup games seem common, and the beach bars pump out music much louder than on North Beach.

For a day away from the beach, rent a moped (250 pesos) or a golf cart (450 pesos) and drive to the Southern tip of the island. There's a small Mayan ruin, and beautiful cliffs where you can really see how amazing the water is. Nearby there's a turtle hatchery, as well as Garrafón Reef Park. At Garrafón you can swim with the dolphins or ride a zip line over the water, but the prices are aimed at Cancun tourists, so a day a Garrafón costs more than a week at the hostel. Still, it's worth driving by to take a look at the zipline and, again, the incredible water.

Drive back along the Caribbean side of the island for more amazing views.

Where to Eat on Isla Mujeres:

The main few streets of Isla Mujeres form a bustling little town, and at night it turns into a network of sidewalk cafés closed to all traffic. Street performers juggle or play music, and there is just a magical feeling in the air.

Take a walk through the town and you're sure to find something to suit your taste, no matter what your taste may be. I'm vegetarian, and had no problem eating well on Isla.

The best place on the Island for breakfast or lunch is Elements of the Island. It's a café with apartments up top and yoga sessions on the roof. Their food isn't cheap by Mexican standards, but it's all organic and totally delicious. Their homemade jam will blow your mind. A full breakfast including coffee and fresh orange juice runs at about 75 pesos.

For dinner, the best place in town – especially if you're vegetarian – is Comono. It's a Mediterranean restaurant run by an Israeli couple, and the food is out of this world. If you're on a tight budget, get the Mediterranean platter. For only 150 pesos, it's a full meal for two people, and beer is only 30 pesos a pop.

While I was in Isla, Comono featured the live music of Jesus Campuzano. If this amazing musician isn't still playing at Comono, you must ask around and track him down. With nothing more than a keyboard and a loop sampler, he makes incredible music that literally has people dancing in the streets. The one souvenir of Isla I brought home was a copy of his CD, and it's in high rotation on the iPod.

If you're watching every penny, have a few meals at the hostel. You can top up your breakfast toast and jam with an omelet for only 15 pesos, and they offer dinner specials each night for about 65 pesos, which includes one drink.

Nightlife on Isla Mujeres:

For the budget traveller, nightlife takes place at the hostel. The main restaurant/bar is open until 11pm, when the party moves to the beach bar. Drinks at either spot are 40 pesos for two cocktails, or 20 pesos for a beer. The beach bar features a DJ most nights, and live music on Sundays. There's even a wooden dance floor built into the sand.

Getting to Isla Mujeres:

Isla's an inexpensive and easy trip from Cancun airport, as long as you take the right transportation.

When you arrive in Cancun, head to the ADO bus stop. Purchase a ticket to the "Centro" bus station (35 pesos). The bus is comfortable, safe, and air conditioned, so don't be tempted by the more expensive cabs.

The bus station is about 25 minutes away form the airport. If you've arrived late, you may want to stay overnight in Cancun before continuing to the ferry. If so, the Hostel Meson de Tulum is walking distance from the bus station. It's nothing fancy, but with dorm beds from 100 pesos, or a private room for 300 pesos, it's a clean and safe place to spend the night. Booking is available through hostelworld.com.

To get to the ferry from either the bus station or the hostel, flag one of the many cabs in the area. The trip to the ferry should cost 40 – 60 pesos. Make sure the cab driver takes you to Puerto Juarez, where you get the ferry to Isla Mujeres for 70 pesos round trip.

After a 20-minute ferry ride (our trip featured live musicians on the upper outdoor deck), you'll be on Isla. The hostel is easy walking distance, even with a suitcase or pack. Ask directions to the PocNa Hostel, or to North Beach, which will get you headed in the right direction. To get back to Cancun, do the entire trip in reverse.

Repeat:

Once you've been to Isla, you'll return to Isla. I talked to one American who had been coming to the island for 15 years, and a couple of Canadians who had made it their regular travel destination for about 10 years. Almost everyone I spoke with was on at least their third trip there.

It really is a magical place, and you won't want to leave – at least not forever. So be prepared, if you go to Isla Muejeres, you may have a new travel destination for life.

Photo Credits: Photos are ©Christina Newberry unless specified below.

Isla Mujeres Palm & Coconuts by mikemcholm; poc-na by dolanh; Isla Mujeres Pier II by mikemcholm. Images via Flickr (Creative Commons).