A Week in Jordan: Two wives, "not-quite-Wadi Rum" and a human-sized hot water bottle
Posted by Emma Torry on August 13, 2009 at 05:10 PM
By Ross Bowers
Morocco made me slightly hesitant to go on another holiday in an Arab country – the happy snaps look idyllic, but they don't reveal the heat, hassle, snorting and swindling going on just out of shot. Nevertheless, I was intrigued by Petra and the Dead Sea and thought a trip to Jordan was an opportunity not to be missed.

Travelling with two pretty girls added to my trepidation about heading back to North Africa as I adopted the self-aggrandising role of guardian of the two blondes.
'Would you like to buy a necklace for your tall wife?'
'No thank you very much'
'How about for your short wife?'
Confused and envious eyes followed me everywhere and I was on red alert for phlegm assaults, pick pockets and devious taxi drivers. I was worrying unnecessarily – the girls are tougher than me, the Jordanian people are kind and honest, and the country is clean and well organised. The best bit about travelling to Jordan is that most of the sights can be covered in a week; the tourist circuit is fairly well trodden so getting around is easy and there are always people to share transport with.
We landed in the bustling metropolis of Amman, spending a couple of nights there whilst visiting the ancient ruins at Jerash before hotfooting it down to Petra along the King's Highway, a rich chain of historical and archaeological sites. We stopped at Madaba, the 'City of Mosaics', Mount Nebo (which, according to the final chapter of Deuteronomy, is where Moses was given a view of the Promised Land), and the fortified town and castle of Karak.

Petra alone makes the trip to Jordan worthwhile; one of the seven wonders of the modern world, it is a vast city, carved into the red rock by the Nabataeans more than 2,000 years ago. It was an important hub for the silk, spice and other trade routes that linked China, India and southern Arabia with Egypt, Syria, Greece and Rome.
Since Petra was featured in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, the locals have gone a little Indiana crazy with most stalls offering some sort of Harrison Ford souvenirs. But it is hard not to be transported to another era as speeding horses gallop past, weaving their way through colonnaded streets to the treasury, temples, sacrificial altars and eventually the Monastery up 800 rock cut steps. Camels and donkeys provide every opportunity for some amusing photos along the way.

Next stop was the desert and towering rock formations of Wadi Rum - Lawrence of Arabia's headquarters during the Arab Revolt against the Ottomans (1917 – 1918). Here we experienced our first bit of swindling.

Wadi Rum itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is actually a fenced reserve. Several tour operators however, take you just outside of the site, put you up in sub-standard tented camps and drive you around in jeeps pretending that you are in the real Wadi Rum. Thankfully they are so convincing that we enjoyed the experience in blissful ignorance – only realising later that we had visited 'not-quite-Wadi Rum'. Our suspicions were only aroused when we realised that we were the only guests staying in our tented camp.
The next day we witnessed the breathtaking beauty of the Dana Nature Reserve (where the Feynan Eco Lodge and project is excellent) en route to two nights at the Marriott Dead Sea Resort and Spa for the luxury finale to the holiday.

The lowest point on earth, the Dead Sea, is a marvel – the health benefits of the sea itself and the mud are well known and we quickly covered ourselves in mud and floated whilst reading a newspaper. Hours of amusement: until you get sea water in your eyes.
I tried out the most unique Dead Sea treatment I could find, a mud / wrap / flotation, which turned out to be the worst hour of my life. I was greeted by a large Jordanian man, given a pathetic pair of paper undies, covered in mud, wrapped in cling film and then engulfed in a human-sized hot water bottle with only my head sticking out for air. Large Jordanian man then left so that I could 'relax' / suffer from acute claustrophobia. It was so hot that the mud and sweat dripped in to my eyes and since I was in a cling film straight-jacket there wasn't much I could do about it.
After that experience I decided to stick to eating and drinking. Just about any cuisine is available in Jordan, and if you can avoid the drive through Starbucks there are some great dishes to try out. I particularly enjoyed the Mansaf, which is a Bedouin dish consisting of rice, a rich broth made from dry sour milk (jameed), and either lamb or chicken. Simple, but tasty.
On our final morning, the maître d' welcomed us to breakfast with a cheerful 'It's nice to be here', um – I think you mean 'It's nice to have you here', but it was nice to be there - Jordan is an amazing country where you can relax and enjoy a real sense of adventure and cultural learning at the same time.
Photos by Ross Bowers, except Bedouin Man by hazy jenius, Wadi Rum by Tbass Effendi and Dead Sea Reflection by Mr. Kris via Flickr.
With three weeks to go until Easter, now is the perfect time to snap up a last-minute deal to one of the world's top Easter holiday destinations.
To inspire you, we've put together a guide to the top Easter breaks for 2009. So stop planning this year's Easter egg hunt and start packing your suitcase for a fantastic Easter holiday!
ANTIGUA, CARIBBEAN:

What: Join Eric Clapton, Oprah Winfrey and Giorgio Armani this Easter and holiday in style on the stunning island of Antigua. What better place to put your Lenten restrictions behind you than on beaches of soft white sand, under a hot sun and in perfect azure waters? The average April temperature in Antigua is a gorgeous 26°C / 79°F.
Why: Jaw-dropping beaches, colonial splendour, wonderful weather and a fantastic atmosphere. Stick around for the week after Easter and ogle open-mouthed at the big, fat classic yachts as they come out to play for the annual Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta (16 – 21 April).
Where: Stay at the super-stylish Inn at English Harbour hotel for the perfect blend of Colonial style luxury and contemporary comfort.
Wow: LHR – Antigua: 2 roundtrip tickets and 6 nights at Inn at English Harbour from USD 6697; LAX - Antigua: 2 roundtrip tickets and 6 nights at Inn at English Harbour from USD 5018; JFK – Antigua: 2 roundtrip tickets and 6 nights at Inn at English Harbour from USD 4886.*
OMAN
What: From souks to ancient sights to snorkelling to sandy beaches, Oman offers opulence, indulgence, adventure and luxury. Muscat, Oman's capital, boasts some seriously impressive hotels in stunning beach locations. Fashionistas and bargain hunters can go crazy in the city's markets, culture vultures can spend days soaking up the impressive sights and adrenaline junkies can dune buggy and scuba dive.
Why: There's something for everyone: jagged mountains, lush valleys, dramatic dunes, empty beaches, superb snorkelling, vibrant souks, camel racing and incredible history and culture. Easter temptation indeed...
Where: Al Bustan Palace Hotel, Muscat. Set against a dramatic mountain backdrop on 200 acres of private beach and lush green gardens, the Al Bustan Palace Hotel has a reputation as the best hotel in the Middle East and one of the finest hotels in the world.
Wow: Return flights from LHR – Muscat from USD 494 per person; from LAX – Muscat from USD 1558 per person; from JFK – Muscat from USD 1077 per person.*
PHUKET, THAILAND

What: One of the world's best known beach destinations, and dubbed the "Pearl of the South", Phuket is swanky and seductive in equal measures. It's a place to dive in azure seas, lounge at chic beach resorts, sip cocktails and soak up the glitz and glamour.
Why: Bargains are easy to find at Phuket's glam resorts and beachside villas and can be bagged, last-minute for hundreds of dollars less than their normal rates. If you're after a luxury Easter break on a moderate budget, this is the destination for you.
Where: If you want glitz on a relative shoestring then opt for Indigo Pearl. The resort offers very decent accommodation, great hotel pools and is located on Nai Yang Beach on Phuket's northwest shore. For a chic boutique hotel and trendy vibe opt for the ever-popular Twinpalms Phuket. Located right next to Thailand's 'millionaires' cove', the hotel's beach is a great site to spot celebrities.
Wow: From LHR – Phuket: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 5463 at Indigo Pearl and from USD 8994 at Twinpalms Phuket; From LAX – Phuket: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 3722 at Indigo Pearl and from USD 6844 at Twinpalms Phuket; From JFK – Phuket: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 8094 at Indigo Pearl and from USD 11638 at Twinpalms Phuket*.
SANTORINI, GREECE

What: Arguably Greece's most romantic and spectacular island, Santorini offers a very local and authentic Greek Orthodox Easter experience. Spend the days leading up to Easter on a private yacht and exploring the Santorini's famous volcano "the caldera". Join in with the islanders' Easter celebrations and processions. Enjoy the Easter feasting and taste the incredible local lamb. On Easter Monday make the most of the local flora and visit Santorini's local vineyards.
Why: Stunning scenery, amazing hikes, beautiful beaches and fantastic weather, plus the experience of joining in with local Easter celebrations and traditions.
Where: La Meduse Santorini. Bang slap on Perivolos Beach, the island's longest sandy strip, this whitewashed boutique hotel occupies a Cycladic-style property and boasts crisp, fresh rooms.
Wow: From LHR – Santorini: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation at La Meduse (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 1817; From LAX – Santorini: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation at La Meduse (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 4938; From JFK – Santorini: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation at La Meduse (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 3145*.
SEVILLE, SPAIN

What: Passion and devotion combine in this fiery Spanish city and Semana Santa (Easter week) is one of the most exciting times to visit. Seville has hosted Easter celebrations for four centuries, and they are universally famous. Around 50,000 parade through the city's streets in traditional costumes during Seville's 58 organised processions. Expect to be wowed by religious statues, music, embroidered cloaks and velvet tunics.
Why: It goes without saying that Seville is one of Europe's most impressive cities. Moorish architecture, flamenco and bullfighting take centre stage in this stunning city. A long Easter weekend in Seville promises to be an unforgettable experience.

Where: Hotel San Gil. Housed in a restored 19th-century building, Hotel San Gil's preserved mosaics echo Seville's Moorish past. Just one kilometre from Seville's historic centre, Hotel San Gil is perfectly located for all the Easter action.
Wow: LHR – Seville: 2 roundtrip tickets and 4 nights accommodation at Hotel San Gil (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 2205; JFK – Seville: 2 roundtrip tickets and 4 nights accommodation at Hotel San Gil (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 2388*.
We hope this answers your questions about what to do at Easter, where the best Easter holiday destinations are and how to plan an Easter trip. Have a great time!
*All prices correct at the time of going to print.
Photo Credits: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 all via Flickr (Creative Commons).
