By Harriet Torry

Tucked between the skyscrapers of Manhattan's Midtown sits a brownstone building that, during the Prohibition era, was an outlawed speakeasy. Today, it's '21' Club: a celebrated bar and restaurant. But the cheeky speakeasy vibe lingers from 1930, the year '21' opened, and comes across the moment you cross under the jockey statues awning the entrance. This is a place that mixes gourmet dining with soul.

The 'old New York' location is historic too, and the staff are charming. Although it's a high-end restaurant, wood-panelled with red leather seating, the atmosphere is friendly and fun without a hint of pretension. The clientèle is also a mix: from celebrities, to groups of executives, to couples and families.

'21' Club has a heavyweight history: as well as countless celebrity guests, it has been featured in more movies than any other New York restaurant, from Wall Street to an episode of Sex and the City.

The menu strongly favours East Coast cuisine such as Maine Lobster, Vermont Lamb and soft shell crab. There are also the classics like the 21 burger, shrimp cocktail and steaks.

'We try to stay "true American"', says head chef John Greeley. 'That's a bit of everything: East Coast, Southern and Low Country cooking, New England... We use local products, follow the seasons and don't like to ship proteins far. That way they're ultra fresh, the vegetables too.'

At 21, there's both the main restaurant, the Bar Room, and a lounge for drinks and light bites like burgers and crab cake, with a wine list of young reds and whites. The wine list in the Bar Room is vast and justly won the Wine Spectator Grand Award in 2008.

I went for the tasting menu to see what 21 Club has to offer. It started off well with an exquisitely fresh tomato gazpacho, creatively jazzed-up with poached shrimp. Next came chilled Maine lobster on a light asparagus terrine. It was complemented elegantly with a glass of Albariño Burgans.

After the soft shell crabs, and in keeping with the season, came sautéed Halibut with roasted oysters. The Halibut was as tender as the summer day is long. It came on a bed of corn and very smoky bacon.

The main courses rounded off with a fine filet of beef. Desserts started with the chef's fruit soup and blackberry sorbet. Then came the tasting menu's apex of indulgence: Manjari Bombe with a hazelnut brûlée centre and chocolate ice cream. It tasted as good as it sounds, and was even decorated with edible gold leaf. A glass of raisiny Madeira Bual Cossart-Gordon and petit fours brought the intricate desserts to a rounded close.

21's tasting menu of seven courses costs US$90, or US$150 with specially chosen wines. Most of the main courses on the à la carte menu cost around US$40, but until October 31st the restaurant is offering a three-course, recession-crushing set menu that costs US$24.07 for lunch and US$35 for dinner.

I asked the head chef what an international traveller with one night in New York should try from the menu. 'I would order the mixed grill because it showcases American game', says Greeley. 'And a steak because most European beef is grass-fed and leaner. Ours, being corn fed and aged, has a unique flavor and richness. As regards seafood, the halibut with razor clams, because you don't see either too often outside the States.'

At '21' Club - an intimate space with friendly yet polished service - American cuisine, American ingredients and American charm provide the quintessential New York experience.

'21' Club, 21 West 52nd Street, New York, New York 10019; Tel: +1 (800) 721 CLUB; Web: www.21club.com.

For opening hours and dress code, please check the website.

Photos courtesy of Orient-Express.