"Do you have hot springs in your country?"
We talked in the bath, the Japanese and I. Rambled on about the differences in our cultures, debated which onsen (hot springs) were the best in the land, and tried to trick each other into moving into the current of the tenki furo (electric bath), to thunderous laughter. But more often than not, both in my neighbourhood bathhouse and across the country, my hosts were curious at to whether Americans enjoyed the benefits of a daily soak.
I didn't really have a good answer for them; with the exception of Palm Springs and what I assumed were a smattering of geothermal springs in the Rockies and Sierra Nevada mountains, I had no idea of what calming waters I could have missed in my own home town. Are hot springs even possible in the middle of the United States, where volcanoes are few and far between, and unlikely to produce anything remotely similar to what one sees in Japan?
In Japan, most of the springs are fuelled by underground water sources coming into close proximity to magma or volcanic "veins" of heat rising to the surface. As these types of hot springs are usually superheated, many have to be regulated so as not to scald the bather.
Given the number of volcanoes in the land of the rising sun, it should come as no surprise that hot spring culture has played a major role in Japanese society: relaxing at an onsen resort in the country is a favourite romantic getaway; super sento (large "amusement park" scale bathhouses) provide a means for families to spend time together while both exercising and staying clean (take that, American nuclear family!); if you are a guest in a Japanese home, you may be asked to bathe before dinner.
More than a means to stay fresh and clean, the sanctity of the bath is of utmost importance. In Japan you bathe first, removing all the dirt and soap from your body, then enter the pure waters of the bath to blissfully while away the time. In Beppu on the island of Kyushu, there is so much hot water beneath the earth's surface that it appears as though small fires are constantly burning on the streets, steam releasing some pressure and providing some very picturesque scenes. In northern Honshu, near Nagano, snow monkeys are clever enough to go in for a soak themselves, as Japanese tourists snap some truly original photographs.
Although some springs in the United States are heated in a similar manner, others are the result of geothermal energy: the deeper you go towards the centre of the Earth, the higher the temperature of the rocks. Hot springs powered in this manner need to reach a sufficient depth in the planet's crust to achieve any significant temperatures (enough for soothing baths, anyway).
My search led me straightaway to west Texas, more specifically a resort not far from the Mexican border: Chinati Hot Springs.
Legends of the regenerative powers of the waters of Chinati trace their origins back to the Native American Apache and Comanche tribes who once had free reign over the great state of Texas. The superstitions surrounding such a burial ground remain in full effect, the current owners always mindful of the direction their karma takes them... "Whoever closes the spring for the use of anyone else will die before his time," warning those who would attempt to restrict access to what nature has provided freely and without prejudice.
Slowly filling the tubs at a steady 109 degrees, these springs offer the same kind of therapeutic effects one would see from any volcanic source: scar regeneration, joint health, overall wellness, a rejuvenation of the spirit.
And unlike in Japan, where one may soak as rain gently disturbs the surface of the outdoor baths, in Chinati, light hail provides just the right effect to appreciate the heated waters underneath the starry night.
If you want privacy and a place to watch Orion dance above a desert oasis without the noise of cell phones and car wheels, Chinati is the place for you. The biggest problems you'll face are runaway burros and all-too-friendly bloodhounds.
In nearby Big Bend National Park, an outdoor hot spring pool lies on the border to Mexico: the Rio Grande Village.
Mere walking (or swimming) distance from the closest Mexican village, the springs are remote, even by Big Bend standards. Your journey will take you slowly backwards in time, as you depart the black asphalt of the late 20th century, amble past trading posts and a post office build nearly one hundred years ago, and catch sight of Native American pictographs and petroglyphs along a sheered rock face pre-dates them all.
A little farther down the sandy path you'll come across the ruins of what was once the bathhouse, now a mere foundation used to prevent the healing water from flowing directly into the river. I must admit I was sceptical... but fear not, these springs are comparable to any seaside onsen in Japan.
The hot springs at Rio Grande Village is recommended for its remote location, soothing waters, and communion with nature. Take a soak in the shadow of Native American culture and melt your troubles away in the Texas sun. Everything is bigger, better, and apparently even more relaxing in Texas.
"Yes, we do have hot springs in America. Let me tell you..."
How are the hot springs where you come from? Iceland, Canada, the UK, New Zealand, Chile, Peru, Taiwan... Antarctica?
