"This is the Roman way, don't worry," Italian chef Daniela del Balzo said cheerfully, as she reversed her Fiat 500 the wrong way up a one-way street. Not that she could really see out of the window anyway, as the boot was full of delicious goodies that we were taking back to her stylish apartment in a ritzy area on Aventine Hill near the Colosseum to cook for lunch.
Daniela's irreverent charm made the time we spent with her, learning to buy and cook as real Romans do, the highlight of a recent trip to Rome. We'd just spent an hour in Testaccio Market, where generations of Italians have gone to shop since it opened in the 1800s, sniffing, tasting and elbowing the weak out the way to get the freshest and most perfect food possible.
The neighbourhood is a working-class stronghold known as Rome's stomach – it is here that you would have once found the city's slaughterhouses, but they've been closed down and transformed into chi-chi art galleries and apartments as the area undergoes galloping gentrification. Daniela explained that she'd recently taken celebrity chef Gary Rhodes around the market and he'd been poking and prodding the produce just like any good Roman housewife.
The market's 50 or so stalls include the freshest glistening fish on display at a fishmongers that proudly displays a picture of Italian legend Marcello Mastroianni, the stall holder's cousin; picture-perfect fruit and vegetables such as shredded chicory and ready-trimmed artichokes that looked as though they were dug out the ground that morning; plus one of the best selections of cheese, ham and meat that you will find in all of Italy.
After lugging our bags into Daniela's apartment, over espresso and biscotti and with Italian opera on in the background, she talked us through the menu which included both local and Neapolitan dishes from her hometown.
While Daniela poured us a generous glass of prosecco, we made some snacks to get us in the mood: bruschetta and prunes wrapped in bacon, a rich courgette frittata and slices of Bresaola topped with ricotta cheese and arugula. Daniela encouraged us to taste, seasoning and pouring on extra-virgin olive oil at will, which had been made from groves at her family's holiday home in Abruzzo. Then we started on our pasta course of fettuccine with artichokes and pasta with Broccolo Romano. The thought of the last dish did make my heart sink as the vegetable was described as a combination of broccoli and cauliflower which aren't exactly must-orders for me, but once it was braised with anchovies and made creamy with pecorino, I could have licked the bowl.
Our main course was Involtini alla Romana, strips of veal rolled up with prosciutto and celery and braised in a white wine and marjoram sauce. Oh, and tiramisu to finish, followed by more coffee, biscotti and chocolates. Or at least I think that's where we finished, as Daniela generously topped up our wine whenever we weren't looking.
After we bade farewell, with heartfelt kisses and thanks and promises to come again, we walked - or rather staggered - down Aventine Hill armed with our recipes, feeling like we didn't need to eat again until we next returned to Rome.
Testaccio Market is open everyday bar Sunday from 6.30am – 2pm.
For more details of Daniela's Cookery School contact Context Travel (www.contexttravel.com).
I was flicking through a recent copy of Condé Nast Traveller and stumbled across their version of the 2010 travel hotlist (which you will have seen everywhere by now, no doubt). CN usually sort the wheat from the chaff though so I though this list was worth sharing.
They have broken the must-visit destinations for 2010 down into seasons, so starting with spring...
WHERE TO VISIT IN SPRING 2010
Beirut, Lebanon: Hoping to once again become the playground of the Middle East, Beirut is hot right now. Check into the newly opened Le Gray or the Four Seasons.
Amsterdam, The Netherlands: Super convenient for the Euro traveller, especially since the completion of a high-speed rail track from Brussels (that connects with the Eurostar), Amsterdam's the perfect destination for art lovers in early 2010. The city's main attractions this spring are the Pioneers of Modern Art exhibition at the Hermitage Amsterdam (from 6 March - 17 September 2010) and the reopening of the Stedelijk museum of modern and contemporary art.
Utah, USA: The new Aman resort, Amangiri, will be drawing the crowds to Utah this spring. Located out in the wilderness of Canyon Point, where the states of Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona meet, the area is home to one of the most dramatic landscapes in the USA. Added to this is the new law legalising alcohol throughout the State.
Morocco: La Mamounia hotel has been reopened in Marrakech and there are new Easyjet and Ryanair routes to Agadir, with flights to the hyped coastal town of Mirleft coming soon.
Istanbul, Turkey: Lauded as one of 2010's European Capitals of Culture, Istanbul is still a hot destination. Favourable rates of exchange only add to the attraction.
Rome, Italy: Visit Rome to check out the new MAXXI_National Museum of the XXI Century Arts, which exhibits 21st century art and architecture.
WHERE TO VISIT IN SUMMER 2010
South Africa: South Africa is going to be a serious hotspot come the World Cup kick off on June 11th. Savvy travellers should combine a trip to the World Cup with a beach break in Mozambique.
Shanghai, China: The Expo 2010 runs from May to October in Shanghai, and CN recommends staying at the legendary Peace Hotel, overlooking Shanghai's Huangpu River. For more Shanghai travel recommendations click here.
Solta, Croatia: The island of Solta has managed to stay off the beaten tourist track despite being just 30 minutes away from Split by ferry. This summer is the last before a planned revolving hotel and marina spoil Solta's tranquillity, so now is the time to go.
Papua New Guinea: Hot on the heals of the successful BBC series Land of the Volcano, Papua New Guinea can expect a rise in tourists this summer.
WHERE TO VISIT IN AUTUMN 2010
Dubai: For a bit of sunshine and a new fashion hotel openings; the first, The Armani Hotel Dubai, in the Burj Dubai Tower, followed by the Palazzo Versace in the Culture Village of Dubai Creek.
Nicaragua: Check out the surf and book into the country's first boutique hotel, the Contempo.
Uruguay: La Solana, on Portezuelo beach just west of Punta del Este, is the hippest boutique hotel opening in Uruguay this autumn. Also check out the new Estancia Vik to the north-east of José Ignacio.
Sri Lanka: Due in part to the recent stability in Sri Lanka, it is set to be a big destination later on this year. Home to a couple of stunning Aman resorts and the Reef beach villa in Wadduwa, travellers won't be hard pressed to find stylish hotel choices.
WHERE TO VISIT IN WINTER 2010
Colorado, USA: Ski heaven thanks to big changes for the 2010/11 season: the five star Nell Residences are opening in Snowmass, Aspen; a new Four Seasons is launching in Vail; and the Denver Ski Train, which takes ski bunnies to Winter Park, is set for a comeback.
Tasmania: Stay in the lap of luxury at the spa suites of the Saffire resort on Great Oyster Bay.
Antarctica: Travel in serious style on Le Boreal, "the newest and first all-balcony stateroom and suite vessel in Antarctica", chartered by Abercrombie & Kent.
Photo Credits: Amsterdam by MorBCN; Nicaragua by vtoxic; Solta by bullro; Great Oyster Bay by Gary Hayes. All images via Flickr (Creative Commons).
If you've ever heard about or experienced the slow torture of queuing to buy tickets to the Vatican Museums then rejoice. It's now possible to book your tickets online.
The Vatican Museums are among the most impressive museums in the world. Founded by Pope Julius II in the 16th century, they include paintings by Caravaggio, Leonardo da Vinci's portrait of Saint Jerome and, of course, the Sistine Chapel.
The Vatican Museums have over 4 million visitors a year, so online ticket booking really is a blessing! You can access the booking site here.
Photo Credit: Rainy line to Vatican Museum by wfbakker2 via Flickr (Creative Commons).
