By Christina Newberry

The British Columbia town of Harrison Hot Springs (so named because of its natural hot spring pools) has an unexpected draw each autumn and winter. The bald eagle, that iconic symbol of America, is a major presence in this Canadian village—just an hour and a half drive from the major metropolis of Vancouver. In this lakeside town, eagles far outnumber the 800 or so permanent human residents when they come to feast on spawning salmon in the Harrison and Fraser Rivers.

In November of each year, the Fraser Valley Bald Eagle Festival celebrates the arrival of the eagles—and the salmon—with loads of free events and an eagle count. This year’s count topped 2,600 eagles along just three kilometers of the Harrison River.

That number may sound staggering—that’s close to a thousand eagles per kilometer of river, after all—but once you’re on the river, you believe it, and you’re blown away. At certain points along the river, each tree is spotted with close to 100 birds, and the gravel shorelines where salmon are most abundant are literal feasting grounds, with a seemingly impossible number of eagles congregating to gorge on the abundant fish.

The eagles can be spotted from land, if you head to the right spot. Sandpiper Golf Course is one such option for land-locked eagle viewing. Lunch at the course-side River Edge Restaurant offers the chance to spot a few eagles right from your dining table, with a warming fire in the fireplace to boot.

But for the real spectacle, you’ve got to head out on the water. Several local companies offer eagle-watching boat tours leaving from the dock directly in front of the iconic Harrison Hot Springs Resort and Spa. Harrison Eco Tours has an office right in the hotel and offers packages for hotel guests. Just a couple of hours on the river in a covered, heated boat allow you to spot hundreds of eagles, with guides knowing just when to cut the boat’s motor so you can get close to the eagles without disturbing them.

Even with the heaters, after all that time on a chilly river, there’s nothing better than a soak in the town’s famed mineral hot springs, which some claim have healing powers. Resort guests have access to five indoor and outdoor natural mineral hot springs pools. For those on a tighter budget, the town has a public hot spring pool that’s less romantic but just as warm.

If you go
Harrison Hot Springs is located less than two hours’ drive east of Vancouver (three hours from Seattle) in British Columbia’s Fraser Valley. For those wishing a more direct route, several major carriers fly to Abbotsford, about 45 minutes’ drive from Harrison Hot Springs. Eagles flock to the area starting in November, with peak viewing time in January and February.

Harrison Hot Springs Resort offers packages including two nights’ accommodation, access to the resort’s hot springs pools, full buffet breakfast, and a two-hour eagle watching tour with Harrison Eco Tours starting at $249.50 per person based on double occupancy. For each package sold a donation is made to an organization that supports wildlife programs.

Rowena’s Inn at Sandpiper Golf Course offer packages including one night’s accommodation, $50 credit for River’s Edge Restaurant, and access to the resort’s riverside designated eagle viewing area from $175 per room. They can also arrange boat tours.

For non-resort guests, the Harrison Hot Springs public pool offers access to an indoor hot spring pool for $9 per adult/$7 for children and seniors, and Harrison Eco Tours offers two-hour eagle-watching tours for $99 per person.

By Turner Wright

As one of the great adventure capitals of the world, New Zealand boasts an impressive array of activities for travellers: bungy jumping in Queenstown, skydiving in Taupo, Zorbing in Rotorua. Not to mention a full assortment of hot springs in which to ease those weary bones after a long day on the road.

To many travellers familiar with hot springs around the world, most of New Zealand's should come as a pleasant surprise, especially those located on the South Island. The main problem with the hot springs on the North Island is determining which pools are "authentic". In Rotorua, a town practically full to the brim with hot water - and smelling strongly of sulphur - nearly every motel and motor inn advertises their features: Sky TV, high speed internet, and hot pools. Catch the scam? Of course not. You would think by spending the evening in an establishment in the heart of a hot spring village you would be entitled to soak in real hot spring water (as opposed to heated tap water). Unfortunately, the sign you should have been seeking was "mineral pools", not hot pools; the terminology varies by location.

I suppose there are certain slang terms and ways of deceiving cash customers in any country... hot pools, hot springs, mineral pools... you can't go wrong with the name waiariki; the original Maori term, meaning "chiefly waters", which commonly refers to outdoor pools in the countryside, as opposed to some of the more family friendly resorts like Miranda - they may claim to have the largest hot pool in the southern hemisphere, but that doesn't change the fact it's nothing more than a glorified water park, designed to entertain kids rather than cater to those seeking to enjoy a quiet soak as the sun slowly sets.

These are the most chiefly waters I know on New Zealand's North Island.

1) Ngawha Springs, Northland

Ngawha (pronounced "nafa") is the sole source of mineral pools in Northland. Well off the beaten path and not mentioned in Lonely Planet, these waiariki pools vary in temperature and mineral content. If you feel like getting scalded or have skin as tough as the first Maori to take a soak, check out the Bull Dog bath at 45 degrees C. Want to ease into the hotter ones first? Soloman is a favourite of mine at 36 degrees, and I also enjoyed the rich milky baths on the other side of the complex to cool off. Best of all, these waters are in wooden tubs crafted from native wood, set in an area so remote it's unlikely to ever be full to the brim with tourists or families. Word of warning: don't plan to keep whatever bathing suit you choose to wear; the minerals will stain almost any material a nice off-colour puke, and leave it smelling like delicious sulphur. Hold off on showering after you visit; although the smell may not be best suited to help you pick up members of the opposite sex, the minerals will continue revitalizing your skin as long as it remains.

2) Hot Water Beaches

Being buried in hot sand is a little unnerving to many first timers; often the first question I hear is: "Can I get out from underneath if there's a problem?" No worries; you're in New Zealand, and you only have to dig a hole, not bury yourself inside it. Sand baths like these exist the world over, from Ibusuki, Japan, to Deception Island, Antarctica. When you're on the North Island, there are two such places I would recommend:

Hot Water Beach, Coromandel Peninsula
Go hire a shovel from the nearby Hot Water Beach shop and dig yourself a nice little spot of paradise on this sandy beach. It's a delicate balance determining exactly when to soak, but generally, two hours before and after the low tide is safe. Just be sure not to cool yourself off in the ocean if you're feeling particularly sweaty; this beach, along with several others in the area, has particularly dangerous rips and undertows.

Te Puia Hot Spings, Kawhia
If you're looking for a hot water beach well beyond the reaches of Auckland and most tourists' tracks, head south of the surfing city of Raglan and keep going until you hit hot black sand. The beaches of Kawhia give off a pleasant, but not overwhelming, smell of sulphur. Only this time, plan to bring a shovel from home.

3) Rotorua

Rotorua is essentially one big hot pool. You don't even have to travel outside the city limits to find some decent places to soak, but if you do feel like a short drive, the Wai Ora Spa in Tikitere (Hell's Gate) is the way to go; prepare to pay far more than you would at any other hot pool, but the hot mud treatment is worth the weight off your wallet. Closer to downtown, the Polynesian Spa is probably the classier route, with private pools and a great view of Lake Rotorua, but don't shy away from the Blue Baths, either; the main pool is little more than lukewarm even on the hottest summer day, but the adjacent baths seem to be fed directly from the spring. Next to Ngawha, the hottest I have yet experienced in a waiariki.

In my humble opinion, however, the city's main attraction is the smallest of all. As you ride the bus in from Auckland, the smell of sulphur seeps in from Kuirau Park, the site on which you should focus your photography efforts: boiling mud pools, steaming hot springs, and children playing nearby. Best of all, this park is home to something I had not expected to see outside of the island of Kyushu in Japan: foot baths. Take it from me, my friends, there is nothing sweeter in life than going for a barefoot run in this park just as the sun is beginning to rise, letting your toes freeze in the morning dew, and then taking a break in one of the few foot baths to warm yourself. "Sweet as", as the Kiwis would say.

4) Taupo Plateau

I can only offer you one bit of advice when it comes to soaking in Taupo: get out of town. The Taupo region has some of the best hot pools on both the North and South Island, but the pickings are slim in urban areas. If you're headed north-east, you must relax in Kerosene Creek's jacuzzi pool or the aptly-named 'Paradise' to the east of Lake Ohakuri. In addition, there are many natural springs on private property; it's best to call the owners ahead of time if you're planning a trip (see www.nzhotpools.co.nz for details).

If you have only a short stay in New Zealand and hot springs are your goal, focus all your efforts on Taupo and its surroundings. Want to throw some of that famous New Zealand adrenaline into the mix? Jump out of a perfectly good aeroplane before you hit the baths.

5) At the End of a Great Walk

"In the middle of the journey of my life, I found myself astray in a dark wood, where the straight road had been lost." How unfortunate Dante chose to hike into Hell rather than the Lake Waikaremoana Track, one of New Zealand's nine 'Great Walks'. He could have found a pool full of soothing water waiting for him rather than an ominous gateway.

Maungataniwha Hot Springs is in fact a little off the Lake Waikaremoana Track, but well within the boundaries of Te Urewera National Park, the largest on the North Island. The best route would probably be to stop at the Parahaki Hut overnight then make your way over to the springs: hot water rolling down a rock face. You'll probably have to dig a small pool to enjoy a soak, but won't all that effort be worth it after a "mere" seven hours' hiking? Definitely. For detailed directions, check out Sally Jackson's "Hot Springs of New Zealand" or Lonely Planet's "Tramping in New Zealand".

Photo Credits: New Zealand Hot Springs by jjay69; "Enjoying a hot bath!" by magical-world; "Rotorua, Te Whakarewarewa" by vtveen; "Taupo Hot Springs" by xoque.

By Kate Harris

No matter what brings you to Ho Chi Minh City, be it a weekend getaway or a six month backpacking trip, you'll have slurped your way through one too many bowls of delicious Pho; you'll have lugged a new suitcase back to your hotel, loaded with exquisite lacquer that you just couldn't resist; you'll have sunk a couple of rocket fuel coffees to keep you going through the museums and your heartbeat is still racing from crossing the road. In short, it's time for a break. It's time for a trip to L'Apothiquaire.

L'Apothiquaire is a spa and retreat tucked away down a side street in District 3. As you step off the pavement and walk down a tree lined pathway, the sound of motorbike horns fading behind you, you are greeted by an almost fairytale scene: a white colonial French building stands with its doors thrown open in welcome and next to it, an arc of pink bougainvillea bends gracefully over a serene swimming pool. On the inside of the front door a plaque is nailed to the wall. It reads 'Silence is Golden.' This is your refuge for the next few hours.

As its name suggests, L'Apothiquaire is a spa that prescribes products and treatments developed from natural ingredients, all of which are made and tested in France. A quick introduction to some of the products feels something akin to a chemistry lesson as you listen to a roll call of familiar ingredients but all of them used for unfamiliar effect. If you're feeling an uncomfortable layer of traffic fumes clinging obstinately to your slightly sweaty face, you might chose a facial with a cleanser developed from lemon (anti-bacterial), Pilosella (anti-fungal) and Rosemary and Thyme (anti-septic). All the products are elegantly packaged for sale, so if you're planning on making the most of Saigon's nightlife, you might want to consider purchasing their best selling 'Contour des Yeux' ($34, 15ml) to 'diminish dark circles and puffiness.'

If choosing between a purifying facial and a dry skin facial sounds too much like hard work, then there is a menu of less complicated treatments to chose from. You can wear off those fresh spring rolls with an anti-fat massage, try something new with a mud body wrap or just kick off your dusty flip-flops and collapse into a chair for a foot massage. All of these chairs are a surprising bright pink, and, coupled with swathes of purple velvet curtains they set a theatrical tone for your pampering. One room, designed to accommodate group bookings, has eight dazzling mock regency chairs laid out as if you're being treated in the court of Louis XIV. A royal service indeed.

For those of you with some caffeine still to burn, there is the top-floor studio where a range of classes are on offer including Yoga, T'ai Chi and Qi Gong. A session in here and you're now all set with toned skin and stretched limbs – or even stretched skin and toned limbs – and ready to head back into the city. It won't be long before your skin will be besieged by sunshine or air-conditioning, but at least you gave it a couple of hours respite.

Book in advance at: La Maison de L'Apothiquaire, 64A Truong Dinh Street, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: +848 3932 5181 / 3932 5082; Web: www.lapothiquaire.com.

Additional location at: L'Apothiquaire Artisan Beauté, 61-63 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: +848 3822 1218.

The experience starts on arrival at the airport. A smartly dressed woman holds a ‘wooden’ sign “Six Senses” and gently leads you to the chauffeur awaiting you in the 7 series BMW. After some 20 minutes you glide into a small marina (with some extremely beautiful boats) and ushered onto a speed boat. Some five minutes elapse, and a pontoon appears with what appears like a ‘welcoming party’ standing there.

Melida, the Hospitality Manager, greets you together with your personal Butler. In my case, it was Am. He was warm, and nothing seemed too much problem. I was invited to strike some huge ‘gong’ twice to announce my arrival. The purpose eluded me – I assumed it was to see whether I could manage to elicit some sound! Otherwise they would have assumed it would be better to send me straight back!

Am took me in my Buggy (Golf Course type) to my Villa – which was simply gorgeous, and took some 15 minutes to be shown around, pool, lighting, steam room, different bath room etc etc – too much to take in. One question I had for Am was about the TV. “Where is it?” We do not have any, we feel that this has to be a ‘life changing experience’ – Culture shock, it is! – The F1 Monaco GP was on the following day. What to do? No more to say and I capitulated to the atmosphere.

Check in was a painless exercise in the villa, checking that they had all my information correctly recorded. Needless to say, my assessment of my girth had fooled them, and Am very kindly suggested that I have a ‘slightly’ larger yoga suit that I ordered! (The Management like all residents – sounds like internment - to wear these outfits, and having got used to them, I really understand the reasons). Am then told me that I had to go meet with Sally, a Naturopath who would plan my stay at Six Senses and explore the purpose of my visit.

Sally is a lovely Australian woman, and passionate about the concept of holistic living. I was asked many deep thought provoking questions, after which Sally put together a timetable, which was later given to me. She suggested that I immediately go and have 2 massage sessions of one hour each! The first was on my back and legs. Simply amazing Chinese massage I cannot remember what is was, as I fell asleep! The second seemed rather more painful, but the euphoria from the first session simply left me in a state of metamorphosis. I recall making some snorting noises (hopefully not flatulence), or possibly laughing and feeling rather embarrassed about them, but Ning was so nice and said something as to say “it’s OK”. The rigmarole of changing back into the formal residence attire took place, and I was gently escorted to the Tea Garden. A couple of Geese waddled past looking at me as if to say “you poor fool, you have a very long way to go before you can look anything like your objective” and I could not stop laughing! I was offered different teas – and chose ginger. Delicious, stimulating and brought me back to life with a jolt.

Dinner followed, which was a seafood barbeque consisting of shrimp and lobster. All very good.

Time for an early night, after such a challenging day!

Sunday

I was supposed to go for a 7am session for “Everyday Breathing” but felt too lazy, so slept in. After all, I was here to relax? Right? We are all given bikes – and the name plate is hand-written with each guest’s initials. Cute touch. Thought that I would give this a try and cycle to the main restaurant. Having not ridden a bike for years, thought it would be simple – as one never forgets this. Wobbled around and finally got it moving in the right direction, then bang! Managed to ruin the gears and the chain fell off! Rather embarrassed again, so discarded the bike and walked!

Breakfast consisted of delicious mueslis, and egg-white omelettes. Walked back to the villa. The weather was simply gorgeous, so covered myself in sun-cream and layout by the small pool at my villa.

After lunch, I had booked a session for “Super Stretch” at 2.00pm. I turned up, and was met by Pui. The session was excruciating, but I felt amazing after a few hours!

At 4pm, I had a session with Kelly Mitchell called the “Wellness Wheel” which explained the balance of life, and how everything interacts with each other part. Kelly was like your personal psychiatrist, and reviewed my life habits, what I wanted to change, and what I want to achieve. Once again, many deep thought provoking questions, all of which made me realise that I needed to make some fundamental changes.

Dinner consisted of some interesting vegetarian starters, with a choice of grilled fish as main course, with different puddings.

Monday

The weather was beautiful, so could not wait to sunbathe by the pool. Sat there for a few hours until my “Nutritional Counselling” session with Kelly again. She agreed to write a program for me to follow before I left.

There is another restaurant in the spa – at the end of the property. It is called “Dining at the Point” and all they prepare is vegetarian food. It seems that ‘raw’ means you can cook up to 42C. The food was unbelievable! I strongly recommend eating at this spot, with lovely views towards Phuket and many other small islands.

My next massage session was at 4pm for two hours. Today was Thai Massage and then Detoxifying. Jum was the masseuse. I have to say that this was very painful! After the hour’s session, I was very aware that I had been ‘done’ and felt as though I had been through a few rounds with Mike Tyson! The detoxifying massage though relaxed me again. It is interesting that one moves from different treatment rooms – and there are 4 separate areas. Each of the areas are named by different massage-type regions.

I did not have any dinner, as I felt too full, and tired.

Tuesday

The weather had changed, and it was pouring. Enjoyed the usual breakfast, and then went to meet Bryan, the Wellness Director. He looks extremely fit (and is!), and his idea of fun/relaxation is competing in the Iron Man triathlons – swimming, cycling and running, or the 250 km running races in Mongolia or other countries! He is a font of knowledge. He politely and gently explained to me what I should do to improve my physical shape. Taught me a range of simple exercises together with warm up procedures and the benefit of all the different machines. It was a thoroughly interesting 90 minute session.

Bryan joined me for lunch and talked about the resort and the principles behind the different concepts – he is passionate about it. You must meet him and let him challenge you.

I was getting closer to my final session, the “Hot Stone 80 minutes” and had not idea what to expect. Jeep was my masseuse again (I thought she had had enough from the previous time!). This massage involves heating stones to about 60c, and then having them slowly and rhythmically moved over ones body. The effect of the oils and warm stones is really relaxing, and leaves you with a glow. The heat penetrates deep into the body. It is a must.

I was escorted to the Bai Cha (Tea room area) to relax again with some lovely ginger tea.

In the evenings, they have a table for customers to meet some of the management, and also other ‘inmates!’ Tonight was really fun. There was a great couple, Colin and Alison, who were from the UK police, Alistair the Director of Six Senses in Europe (Dubai/Europe), Melida and many others. It was thoroughly enjoyable, albeit tinged with sadness as I was leaving the following morning.

Wednesday

Up early, quick breakfast. Am came to meet me, and settle my bill in the room – very civilised. Then at 9am I was taken in my buggy to the pier, and had to bang the Gong only once this time. Did so with more vigour than the two required on my arrival, as felt really rejuvinated. The speedboat was waiting, and my farewell party consisted of Melida and Am. It took about 4 minutes to reach the marina and the awaiting 7 series BMW. It was raining, which gave a more sombre feeling to the events. Was at the airport in another 20 minutes.

All I can say is that these four days were probably one of the most enjoyable I have experienced at any hotel or resort. The seclusion, treatments, learning sessions, and time to reflect are indeed ‘life changing’ especially if one can implement everything one has learned.

I cannot recommend Six Senses Destination Spa Phuket enough for a life changing experience. The people are lovely, nothing is too much, and the rooms, fittings and location are out of this world. Sign up as soon as you can!

Have you had any experiences like this?

We put the feelers out this morning about the top spas in Asia and these gems in Bali, Thailand and the Philippines came back. Feast your eyes and nurture your mind, body and spirit. Ohm...

BALI

COMO Shambhala Retreat at Uma Ubud, Ubud: Located in the stunning and serene Uma Ubud hotel and overlooking the Tjampuhan Valley, the COMO Shambhala Retreat offers spa therapies alongside yoga, meditation, reflexology, hiking and biking. If you want to detox there's a raw food plan available, otherwise you can enjoy food from the hotel's restaurant menus. The retreat is just five minutes outside of Ubud, Bali's cultural epicentre.

Take advantage of the two night COMO Shambhala Reviver package, which includes bed and breakfast style accommodation, one three-course dinner at Uma Ubud's Kemiri restaurant, the "Shambhala Restoration Path" or "Shambhala Purification Path" treatment package and a private one-hour yoga session. Costs from USD 1,125 per room (based on two sharing).

Web: www.uma.ubud.como.bz; Tel: +62 361 972448; Email: uma.ubud@comoshambhala.bz.

THAILAND

Chiva-Som, Hua Hin:

If you're in need of a total lifestyle overhaul then the multi-award winning Chiva-Som is the place to go. The focus of Chiva-Som's customised programmes is on rebalancing and rejuvenating mind, body and spirit. A firm favourite amongst celebrities and Fortune 500 types, the spa can help you achieve a range of goals from weight management to detoxifying to toning and slimming to relaxation to general well-being to fitness to anti-aging. There are over 120 treatments on offer, plus Tai Chi, Pilates, Yoga and personal training classes.

To view a list of retreats and prices click here.

Web: www.chivasom.com; Tel: +66 (0) 3253 6536.

Absolute Sanctuary, Koh Samui: A Moroccan-inspired boutique spa on the gorgeous Thai island of Koh Samui might sound odd, but Absolute Sanctuary's devotees assure us that it works. There are several detoxification programmes on offer, plus yoga retreats and spa therapies. We like the sound of the three day rejuvenating package, which offers an hour long massage per day, a facial treatment or body wrap per day, unlimited yoga classes, three vegetarian meals a day and unlimited juices and smoothies.

Costs for the three day rejuvenating holiday start from USD 1,278 for a double room (based on two people sharing).

Web: absolutesanctuary.com; Tel: +66 77 601 190; Email: bookings@absolutesanctuary.com.

PHILIPPINES

The Farm, Batangas:

Check into The Farm to detox and improve your wellbeing. The focus here is on definitely on detoxification (think colon hydrotherapy, colon massage and "target organ cleansing") to reduce toxins, boost immunity and improve mental clarity. In addition to these treatments you can also take on fitness sessions and relax during spa therapies. Programmes start from 5 days, although there is a "Day at The Farm" option available.

Prevention / Recovery programmes start from USD 2,027 per person for five days; Wellness programmes start from USD 790 per person for five days; Day at The Farm costs from USD 86 per person. All rates are exclusive of 12% government taxes and 10% service charges.

Web: www.thefarm.com.ph; Tel: +63 2 884 8073; Email: info@thefarm.com.ph.