Cycling Around Cambridge: Rivers, Meadows and Cream Teas

Posted by Emma Torry on June 10, 2009 at 03:11 PM

Brits have always been bonkers about bikes, and no-where is better suited to biking than Cambridge. It's the city with the highest level of cycle use in the UK, where spokes and students go hand-in-hand and locals prefer two wheels to four.

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The ancient, tightly packed city is perfect for exploring by bike and it's a very easy ride out to the quiet river "backs" and water meadows of the River Cam.

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One of the top cycling routes is Cambridge to Grantchester, a village immortalized by Rupert Brooke in his 1912 poem The Old Vicarage, Grantchester. It's a leisurely 30 minute cycle ride from Cambridge to Grantchester across meadows and along river banks. There are dozens of picnic spots en route, but make sure you save room for the famous cream tea at the Orchard Tea Garden or, for those in need of stronger stuff, a pint in the beer gardens of The Rupert Brooke or The Red Lion pubs.

With British "Bike Week", the biggest nationwide cycling event in the UK, coming up from 13 – 21 June, now is the perfect time to explore Cambridge by bike. And what better excuse than Bike Week to treat yourself to a cycle-themed break at the boutiquey Hotel du Vin Cambridge, right in the heart of the city's famous cobbled streets and college enclosures?

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A two-night Summer Cycling Break at the Hotel du Vin Cambridge costs from £349 for two people (sharing) including 2 nights bed & breakfast accommodation, with supper in the Bistro on one evening, and a full days’ bike hire. Valid throughout summer 2009, subject to availability. To book, contact Hotel du Vin Cambridge on +44 (0)1223 227 330.

Photo Credits: Clare HDR by .mushi_king; grantchester by murasakinotori via Flickr (Creative Commons). HdV Cambridge Suite ©Hotel du Vin.

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Hong Kong's Best Beaches

Posted by Emma Torry on April 22, 2009 at 07:25 PM

Just outside of Hong Kong's concrete jungle lie a number of seriously gorgeous beaches. Dotted across the territory's islands and parks, Hong Kong's beaches offer the perfect respite from busy city schedules and high-rise living. We spoke to Martin Williams, founder of HKOutdoors.com, to get the low-down on his top five Hong Kong beaches.

1. Tai Long Wan, Sai Kung

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Probably Hong Kong's most stunning and unspoiled beach, Tai Long Wan lies in a bay on the Sai Kung peninsula. Martin calls it a "stellar beach": the white sand, breaking rollers, turquoise waters and wild surroundings will blow your socks off wherever you come from. There are no buildings near the beach, just a couple of shacks that double up as restaurants, so you are guaranteed unspoiled vistas and peace and quiet.

Martin advises that the best time to go is at the weekend; there are no lifeguards on Tai Long Wan and there can be strong currents off the beach, so it is advisable to go when weekend hikers are in the area. The restaurants are not always open during the week, so if you do visit make sure you take something to eat and plenty of water.

Getting to Tai Long Wan isn't easy, but it is most definitely worth it. You can either hike in or cough up for a speedboat. Hikers should get the bus to Pak Tam Au (the highest point on the Pak Tam Road) or a speedboat or ferry from Wong Shek Pier to Chek Keng, then follow Stage 2 of the MacLehose trail towards Long Ke. If hiking doesn't appeal then you can get a speedboat from Sai Kung pier out to Tai Long Wan, but it will cost about HKD 1,000 for a return journey and involves a lot of haggling!

2. Cheung Sha, Lantau

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If you want to "feel like you're on a South China Sea island" then head to Cheung Sha on Lantau. It is one of Hong Kong's longest beaches stretching 2 kilometres from east to west. Martin calls the sandy beach a "wild place" and a great spot to "get away from it all". Head to either the east end or the west end of the beach which is where the best swimming spots are. Cheung Sha is home to The Stoep, a South African barbeque restaurant and one of Hong Kong's most popular al fresco dining spots.

Cheung Sha is easily accessible by bus or taxi from Mui Wo and Tai O.

3. Cheung Chau Island

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Martin recommends a visit to Tung Wan and Kwun Yam Wan beaches on Cheung Chau island. He says both are sheltered, accessible and have fantastic swimming. Quiet Kwun Yam beach also has a nice bar, perfect for hanging out at on a sunny afternoon. Martin recommends swimming at the beaches at high tide to avoid murkier waters when the tide is out. The island's main claim to fame is the Cheung Chau Windsurfing Centre where Hong Kong's only gold Olympian, Lee Lai-Shan, learnt to windsurf. Her uncle owns the centre and introduced her to the sport she went on to triumph in at the 1996 Atlanta games.

Ferries run to Cheung Chau from Pier 5 in Central. Fast ferries take 35 minutes, otherwise the journey takes an hour.

4. Shek O, Hong Kong

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Just 25 minutes in a taxi from central Hong Kong sits sandy Shek O beach. Martin says Shek O is "great when there's an easterly wind" as the beach gets good surf. Shek O is very popular at weekends so it's best to visit during the week when the beach and village are quiet and sleepy. The beach has several lifeguard towers and shark nets so it's very safe for swimming.

Martin says one of the best ways to visit the beach is to hike the Dragon's Back first and then drop down to Shek O village from the end of the trail.

There are a few great places to eat in Shek O whilst you're there, The Black Sheep and the Chinese & Thai Seafood restaurant both come recommended.

5. Tung Ping Chau, New Territories

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Far-flung Tung Ping Chau island is in Hong Kong's most easterly corner and is about as far as you can go before you reach Chinese waters. Martin says the island has a "Robinson Crusoe feeling to it", and calls Tung Ping Chau "a lovely island, curious, interesting, with a great atmosphere and unlike anywhere else in Hong Kong".

The island is small and the beaches very close to the ferry pier. Make sure you take a mask and snorkel with you as Tung Ping Chau is one of Hong Kong's top coral sites – you can see corals, colourful fish and urchins.

Although the island is no longer inhabited full time, at the weekends restaurants open up in old village houses across Tung Ping Chau. They make fantastic spots to relax and freshen up in once you've sated yourself on the fine white sands and clear waters.

To get to the island catch a ferry from Ma Liu Shui pier near University KCR station. The ferries only run on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays. To access the island during the week you need a private boat.

Photo Credits: Tai Long Wan by Justin Gaurav Murgai, Cheung Sha by Marc van der Chijs, Cheung Chau by randomwire, Tung Ping Chau by Verity.hk.

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Sandboarding in Africa

Posted by Emma Torry on April 07, 2009 at 02:37 PM

To experience the world's largest and most dramatic sand dunes why not throw caution to the wind and sign up for sandboarding or sand-skiing? In Namibia and Mozambique extreme sports combine with extreme scenery to provide an unforgettable and adrenaline-filled travel experience.

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SWAKOPMUND, NAMIBIA

Bordered on three sides by the vast Namib Desert and facing the Atlantic Ocean, Swakopmund is the adventure sports capital of Namibia and the jumping off point for sandboarding and sand skiing excursions. The dunes near Swakopmund are some of the world's largest and offer exhilarating slopes amidst majestic scenery.

Jen Bolton Bigelow, 37, from Abiquiu, New Mexico describes the sandboarding at Swakopmund as "fan-frickin-tastic, so absolutely beautiful", and "a gorgeous way to experience the magnificent beauty of the dunes and overall landscape".

Drawn to Swakopmund in June 2007 after reading about the sandboarding on offer there, Jen organised a half-day "stand-up boarding" session through a local agency, Desert eXplorers, and headed out to the dunes with three instructors.

Upon arriving at the sandboarding site "the vastness of the dunes is truly breathtaking and they are constantly shape-shifting due to the wind. They went on and on as far as the eye could see", Jen recalls.

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Unlike their snow-topped cousins, sandboarding slopes are not serviced by chairlifts or buttons. Sand bunnies have to summit the peaks on foot, which can be pretty tough going; the sand is deep and snowboarding boots unwieldy. It is, as Jen notes, "an incredible butt workout".

Although previous snow or sandboarding experience is not necessary, Jen says her surfing, skiing and snowboarding skills were helpful when it came to mastering how to turn down the dunes. Her advice is to avoid taking big, curvy turns and to just go for it, turning tightly when needs be to avoid grinding to a halt. Novices can choose to opt for the "lie-down boarding" option, which essentially involves heading down the dunes on a tea tray, but are advised to cover up very well.

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If you don't have any prior experience instructors are on hand to help. Jen says that her guides were "marvelous and having so much fun themselves that I felt like I was at a sandboarding party. They were very professional and made sure I wore my helmet, which I thought I didn't need".

The guides shared a lot of insight into life in Namibia and arranged for the three hour sand session to end with a sunset picnic at the beach. Jen says, "Sandboarding in the later part of the day and seeing the sunset in the Atlantic at the end of the boarding was spectacular! The majority of the sandboarding is done on the backside runs of the dunes facing away from the ocean, but the last run of the day, back to the vehicle, is right down the front face heading to the vast open ocean. Awesome!"

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Details: Desert eXplorers – Tel: +264 64 406 096; Web: www.namibiadesertexplorers.com. Call for bookings and prices.

BAZARUTO ISLAND, MOZAMBIQUE

The eastern strip of Mozambique's Bazaruto Island is comprised of enormous dunes making it a serious sandboarding hotspot. The smooth, stunning dunes offer a variety of options that cater to beginners, experts and everyone in between against a backdrop of diverse African wildlife and the indigo Indian ocean.

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Sandboarding in this island paradise does come with one catch… You must be staying at the luxury Indigo Bay Resort to access the dunes. The massages, milk baths and body wraps on offer at the hotel spa do have their plus points at the end of a challenging boarding session though, so we'll leave it up to you to decide whether this is a burden or a boon.

Indigo Bay's exclusive dune access guarantees a quiet experience with enough breathing space to soak-up the views. Each two hour excursion culminates with sunset at the top of the dunes. In August, September and October sandboarders can even combine an exhilarating session with some whale watching.

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Bazaruto's dunes are 60 metres high which allows for a 10 second "run". It takes about two minutes to climb to the top. Brandon Kilbride, Activities Manager at Indigo Bay, says the Bazartuto experience is unique, "the overall experience of the views, the sunset, the drive to the dunes through the surrounding island vegetation with the possibility of seeing crocs and red duiker. It is something one can't do every day at home, or in most places for that matter."

Details: Indigo Bay Island Resort and Spa – Tel: +27 11 467 1277; Email: enquiries@raniresorts.com; Web: www.indigobayresort.com. Sandboarding / Tobogganing costs USD 20 per person. Room rates from USD 465 per night.

THE DOS AND DON'TS OF AFRICAN SANDBOARDING:

DO

  • Go armed with sunscreen
  • Wear proper fitting socks to avoid getting blisters from hiking up the dunes in snowboard boots
  • Avoid wide turns

DON'T

  • Worry about falling; we are assured that the fall is soft!
  • Let lack of experience put you off. Instructors will look after you whether you are a novice or a regular rider
  • Wear clothing that is too loose or too tight

Photo Credits: Namibia photos all ©Jen Bolton Bigelow; Mozambique photos by jackhynes and flickabix via Flickr (Creative Commons)

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Dive into Belize

Posted by Emma Torry on March 26, 2009 at 02:15 PM

By Connie Motz

Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the barrier reef in Belize offers some of the world's best scuba diving. Belize's coral reef is the largest in the Caribbean (second largest in the world), following the coastline for 185 miles.

Divers rave about the 150 foot visibility and the calm 75 degree waters. With several hundred cays (islands) to choose from, divers have their choice of premier diving sites.

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One of the top dive sites, The Blue Hole, is a unique, 480ft deep natural wonder spanning almost a quarter of a mile. Inside this circular limestone sinkhole, divers will experience sheer walls, stalactites formations and 200ft visibility. Amazing marine life abounds, including blacktip, tiger and hammerhead sharks. Other popular dive sites include the Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley in Northern Belize.

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No matter where you choose, you'll be swimming with over 500 species of fish and viewing 70 types of hard coral. And if you're not already a certified scuba diver, you can obtain PADI or NAUII certification while in Belize. A supervised resort course offers non-divers an introduction into the sport in the crystal clear waters of the Caribbean.

Whether you're looking for wreck diving, night diving or want to explore the canyons and tunnels, scuba diving in Belize has it all. And in case the unexpected happens, a hyperbaric chamber is available 24 hours a day, in tiny San Pedro on Ambergris Caye.

Two-tank dives cost approximately USD 35 but the best deals to be found often, which include diving, accommodation and transfers, start at USD 495 for a 6 day/5 night stay.

International holiday makers and sun seekers can fly non-stop from major cities like Miami, Houston, Los Angles, Atlanta, Houston and Charlotte. Flights to the cays can be booked with Mayan Island Air or Tropic Air. Belize is known as Mother Nature's best kept secret, so don't miss out!

Belize Info

Formerly known as British Honduras, Belize became an independent nation in 1981. With a population of just over 300,000, Belize covers approximately 8,000 square miles.

Passports are required for travel to Belize and entry visas may be required. For more information see the Ministry of Foreign Affairs website.

Belize Travel Resources:

Photo Credits: Used with permission of TravelBelize.org

Blue Hole - Image Copyright 2008 - Tony Rath of Tony Rath Photography www.tonyrath.com.

Scuba Diving - Image Copyright 2008 - Tony Rath of Tony Rath Photography www.tonyrath.com.

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Beijing Cooking School: Chinese Food with Class

Posted by Emma Torry on March 24, 2009 at 03:03 PM

By Helena Iveson

One of the best things about Beijing is the mouth-watering food, but recreating delicious dishes like steamed ribs with fermented soybeans and dry stir-fried green beans at home can be difficult – unless that is, you went to a Hutong Cuisine cooking class during your visit.

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Professional cook Chun Yi, who speaks perfect English, holds informal and fun classes everyday from her home, where she teaches a selection of her favourite dishes from the Sichuan province, home to some of China's spiciest and most memorable dishes.

Don't worry if the nearest you've been to cooking Chinese food is cracking open a fortune cookie, as Chun Yi starts with the basics. First thing in the morning there's an optional market tour where she will talk you through the myriad of different vegetables available in China, covering everything from choosing cai xin or cai sum for blanched vegetable dishes, to what the different types of soy bean pastes are used for.

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Once you've returned to her courtyard home, just off one of Beijing's trendiest hutong alleys, the aprons go on and the knives come out. Classes are kept to a maximum of six people, each of whom has their own cooking space around a big table. It's a good job there's plenty of room as Chun Yi teaches you how to wield a fearsome looking cleaver.

Once you've mastered knife skills, the real fun begins and after four hours you'll have cooked three different dishes and, if you're anything like me, will have eaten everything with gusto. Well, you've been slaving in the kitchen for a few hours – you deserve it, right?

Cooking classes cost 180RMB per person for 4 hours and every day there is a different menu. Check Chun Yi’s website for details, www.hutongcuisine.com.

For more posts about Beijing, click here.

Photos by Helena Iveson.

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Top Easter Holiday Destinations

Posted by Emma Torry on March 18, 2009 at 06:17 PM

With three weeks to go until Easter, now is the perfect time to snap up a last-minute deal to one of the world's top Easter holiday destinations.

To inspire you, we've put together a guide to the top Easter breaks for 2009. So stop planning this year's Easter egg hunt and start packing your suitcase for a fantastic Easter holiday!

ANTIGUA, CARIBBEAN:

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What: Join Eric Clapton, Oprah Winfrey and Giorgio Armani this Easter and holiday in style on the stunning island of Antigua. What better place to put your Lenten restrictions behind you than on beaches of soft white sand, under a hot sun and in perfect azure waters? The average April temperature in Antigua is a gorgeous 26°C / 79°F.

Why: Jaw-dropping beaches, colonial splendour, wonderful weather and a fantastic atmosphere. Stick around for the week after Easter and ogle open-mouthed at the big, fat classic yachts as they come out to play for the annual Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta (16 – 21 April).

Where: Stay at the super-stylish Inn at English Harbour hotel for the perfect blend of Colonial style luxury and contemporary comfort.

Wow: LHR – Antigua: 2 roundtrip tickets and 6 nights at Inn at English Harbour from USD 6697; LAX - Antigua: 2 roundtrip tickets and 6 nights at Inn at English Harbour from USD 5018; JFK – Antigua: 2 roundtrip tickets and 6 nights at Inn at English Harbour from USD 4886.*

OMAN

What: From souks to ancient sights to snorkelling to sandy beaches, Oman offers opulence, indulgence, adventure and luxury. Muscat, Oman's capital, boasts some seriously impressive hotels in stunning beach locations. Fashionistas and bargain hunters can go crazy in the city's markets, culture vultures can spend days soaking up the impressive sights and adrenaline junkies can dune buggy and scuba dive.

Why: There's something for everyone: jagged mountains, lush valleys, dramatic dunes, empty beaches, superb snorkelling, vibrant souks, camel racing and incredible history and culture. Easter temptation indeed...

Where: Al Bustan Palace Hotel, Muscat. Set against a dramatic mountain backdrop on 200 acres of private beach and lush green gardens, the Al Bustan Palace Hotel has a reputation as the best hotel in the Middle East and one of the finest hotels in the world.

Wow: Return flights from LHR – Muscat from USD 494 per person; from LAX – Muscat from USD 1558 per person; from JFK – Muscat from USD 1077 per person.*

PHUKET, THAILAND

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What: One of the world's best known beach destinations, and dubbed the "Pearl of the South", Phuket is swanky and seductive in equal measures. It's a place to dive in azure seas, lounge at chic beach resorts, sip cocktails and soak up the glitz and glamour.

Why: Bargains are easy to find at Phuket's glam resorts and beachside villas and can be bagged, last-minute for hundreds of dollars less than their normal rates. If you're after a luxury Easter break on a moderate budget, this is the destination for you.

Where: If you want glitz on a relative shoestring then opt for Indigo Pearl. The resort offers very decent accommodation, great hotel pools and is located on Nai Yang Beach on Phuket's northwest shore. For a chic boutique hotel and trendy vibe opt for the ever-popular Twinpalms Phuket. Located right next to Thailand's 'millionaires' cove', the hotel's beach is a great site to spot celebrities.

Wow: From LHR – Phuket: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 5463 at Indigo Pearl and from USD 8994 at Twinpalms Phuket; From LAX – Phuket: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 3722 at Indigo Pearl and from USD 6844 at Twinpalms Phuket; From JFK – Phuket: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 8094 at Indigo Pearl and from USD 11638 at Twinpalms Phuket*.

SANTORINI, GREECE

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What: Arguably Greece's most romantic and spectacular island, Santorini offers a very local and authentic Greek Orthodox Easter experience. Spend the days leading up to Easter on a private yacht and exploring the Santorini's famous volcano "the caldera". Join in with the islanders' Easter celebrations and processions. Enjoy the Easter feasting and taste the incredible local lamb. On Easter Monday make the most of the local flora and visit Santorini's local vineyards.

Why: Stunning scenery, amazing hikes, beautiful beaches and fantastic weather, plus the experience of joining in with local Easter celebrations and traditions.

Where: La Meduse Santorini. Bang slap on Perivolos Beach, the island's longest sandy strip, this whitewashed boutique hotel occupies a Cycladic-style property and boasts crisp, fresh rooms.

Wow: From LHR – Santorini: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation at La Meduse (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 1817; From LAX – Santorini: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation at La Meduse (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 4938; From JFK – Santorini: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation at La Meduse (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 3145*.

SEVILLE, SPAIN

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What: Passion and devotion combine in this fiery Spanish city and Semana Santa (Easter week) is one of the most exciting times to visit. Seville has hosted Easter celebrations for four centuries, and they are universally famous. Around 50,000 parade through the city's streets in traditional costumes during Seville's 58 organised processions. Expect to be wowed by religious statues, music, embroidered cloaks and velvet tunics.

Why: It goes without saying that Seville is one of Europe's most impressive cities. Moorish architecture, flamenco and bullfighting take centre stage in this stunning city. A long Easter weekend in Seville promises to be an unforgettable experience.

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Where: Hotel San Gil. Housed in a restored 19th-century building, Hotel San Gil's preserved mosaics echo Seville's Moorish past. Just one kilometre from Seville's historic centre, Hotel San Gil is perfectly located for all the Easter action.

Wow: LHR – Seville: 2 roundtrip tickets and 4 nights accommodation at Hotel San Gil (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 2205; JFK – Seville: 2 roundtrip tickets and 4 nights accommodation at Hotel San Gil (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 2388*.

We hope this answers your questions about what to do at Easter, where the best Easter holiday destinations are and how to plan an Easter trip. Have a great time!

*All prices correct at the time of going to print.

Photo Credits: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 all via Flickr (Creative Commons).

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Tips for travelling to Sapa, Vietnam

Posted by Emma Torry on March 04, 2009 at 04:46 PM

I was sent an email this morning asking for tips on travelling to the Sapa region in Vietnam. Sadly I've never been so deferred to a friend who went very recently and she came back with a goldmine of information. So good that it had to be shared!

So, here you go, the inside track on the stunning hill station of Sapa...

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When to go to Sapa:

Avoid the winter months of January and February like the plague as the mountains are covered in fog making it impossible to see the surrounding area, which is the whole point of being there! April and May are meant to be good months as well as end of September and October. July and August is Sapa's rainy season so best avoided.

How to get to Sapa:

Fly into Hanoi and take the train up to Lao Cai, which is a nine hour overnight journey. On average there are three trains a night to Sapa departing from Hanoi station, so there are quite a few options to choose from.

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If you are staying at the Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa, which is the best hotel in the area, then they have their own train which has a dining carriage and looks very comfortable. You can only book this if you are staying at the hotel.

The other option is the Fanxipan Express. This is a good and comfortable way to get to Sapa, although there's no dining carriage (the only train with a dining carriage on this route is the Victoria Express). There are four berths per carriage. If there are two of you travelling you will have to share with others unless you pay for all four berths to ensure privacy.

Pete Wilkes, Managing Director of Sapa Rooms, recommends the TSC train, the Livitrans train and the Hara train. He says these carriages all depart from Hanoi nightly between 7:30pm and 9:15pm, arriving in Lao Cai the following morning from 5:30am to 7:30am. These options are safe, secure, comfortable and clean, and come equipped with clean western toilets, air conditioning and lockable doors.

A four berth train ticket costs USD 37 per person one way and a two berth train ticket costs USD 85 per person one way.

Arriving in Sapa:

Once you arrive into Lao Cai there are people milling around to take you to Sapa which is about a 40 minute drive. Really watch out for touts and make sure that you buy your ticket from the driver once on the bus, otherwise you will end up paying over the odds.

Where to stay in Sapa:

Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa is a good hotel with swimming pool, spa and tennis court, as well as tour booking office on site. There is a restaurant and bar there (famous for its cheese fondue) so if you are looking to stay somewhere with all the comforts then I would recommend this, although the rates are a lot higher than anywhere else.

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Tel: +84 43 9330318 (Speak to Ha – she is really helpful); Email: resa.sapa@victoriahotels.asia

Cha Pa Gardens is right in the centre of Sapa, by the market. It's very well located and a sweet place with just four decent sized rooms. The owner, Tommy, is married to a Vietnamese woman and they co-run it. Tommy can arrange for a local guide to take you on walks in the surrounding area, but as we were looking for a bit more depth to the tours and wanting to learn about the local culture, we ended up booking everything through the Victoria Sapa – but enjoy the lovely boutique style hotel.

Tel: +84 20 387 2907; Email: post@chapagarden.com; www.chapagarden.com

Sapa Rooms is the third recommended option. The hotel is run by Pete who was super helpful in sending through all the train options. He can book the train for you as well as all tours and activities. Sapa Rooms was closed when I went in January, but I walked past the hotel. It is right by the market and again in centre of town, but on the road and not set back like Cha Pa Gardens; I don’t think this would make any difference though and imagine service to be much better than at Cha Pa Gardens, which was a bit slack.

Tel: +84 (0)90 618 7883; Email: pete.wilkes@me.com / info@saparooms.com; www.saparooms.com

What to do in Sapa:

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During the day, and if the weather is good, there is so much to do. There's lots of hiking, and although the trails can get quite busy with visitors we found a few treks that were less crowded. You are taken by local guides on these hikes, so also learn a lot about the local culture.

The top hikes are as follows. All of these hikes can be booked through Pete Wilkes at Sapa Rooms, who gives the profits back to the region's minority communities. All hikes can be customised to suit you, and his descriptions of them are as follows. Email pete.wilkes@me.com or call +84 (0)90 618 7883.

Cat Cat Village, 3km (difficulty - easy): This is the home of the H'mong minority tribe. During this hike you have the opportunity to meet and talk with locals to learn more about their daily life. There are many opportunities to purchase handicrafts direct from the local tribal community. The walk will take you to beautiful Cascade waterfall and the old French hydroelectric power station built over 100 years ago. You may choose to walk or catch a motorbike back to Sapa (2km). Cost: 180,000 VND per person.

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Lao Chai and Tavan Villages (difficulty - medium): Walk along ancient buffalo trails between mountains and valleys and across rice paddies to arrive in the beautiful Lao Chai village. Along the way enjoy some of Vietnam's most breathtaking views of terraced rice fields. In Lao Chai village visit the H'mong people in their wooden and bamboo houses, experience daily life in the tribal villages which are set high in the mountains among pristine rice terraces and wild running rivers. Continue on to Tavan village home of the Day minority people. Meet the locals and pay a visit to the schools to distribute any gifts you may have brought from home. Here you will have many opportunities to purchase handicrafts direct from the local tribal community. Choose to return to Sapa on foot, jeep or motorbike. Cost: 420.000 VND per person includes lunch and your motorcycle ride.

Matra and Taphin villages (6 hours, 11km – includes home cooked lunch): First take either a jeep or motorbike ride 4km to visit the Black Hmong village of Matra which is set in a beautiful lush valley and famous for its picture perfect scenery. After this village, continue on the peaceful dirt road talking to locals until you reach the mountain village of Taphin - a traditional handy craft village and home to two different minorities; the Red Dzao and the Black H'mong. Have a picnic lunch in the village and take time to explore the village with your guide. Here there is an option to take a traditional Red Dzau hot bath with medicinal herbs. This is a great way to sooth tired muscles after trekking. Cost: 420,000 VND per person includes lunch and your motorcycle ride.

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Ban Ho hot spring village (1 hour each way by jeep or motorbike, 4 hours trekking around Ban Ho village, includes home cooked lunch): If you want total isolation and dream of swimming in beautiful crystal clear rivers with local minority children surrounded by stunning scenery then this is the trek for you. Truly unforgettable, Ban Ho Village is worth the one hour jeep or motor bike journey to get there, as the village rewards visitors with stunning views and opportunities to discover the daily life of the ethnic Tay people. The trails and roads from Ban Ho also lead to the quiet Red Dao Village of Nam Toong and other ethnic communities, where you can enjoy the best of Northern Vietnam, such as deep valleys, amazing mountains and the friendliest people you can imagine. Cost: 650,000 VND per person, includes lunch and jeep or motorbike ride.

If you are going for longer than a weekend you may want to climb Fanxipan – any of the hotels can help arrange this for you.

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Where to eat in Sapa:

There are some dodgy places and a few great ones; unfortunately we missed out on some as they were closed when we were there. My favourite, which is highly recommended, is Le Gecko. It is run by a great guy called Frederic. There is a pool table there, a terrace for eating outside, and if it's cold there is an open fire to sit next to inside. I recommend the mushroom pasta!

For more information about Vietnam, click here.

Photo Credits: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. All via Flickr (Creative Commons).

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A Low-Key Getaway: Lopez Island, Washington, USA

Posted by Emma Torry on September 30, 2008 at 11:50 AM

By Ann Marie Svilar

Covering 29.5 square miles, Lopez Island, Washington is the first ferry stop in a cluster of islands called the San Juans, that rise from the Puget Sound and hug the Canadian border. Even during bustling tourist season Lopez Island will make you turn off the laptop and slow down. Wave to the blonde woman named Margie manning the ferry dock as you arrive. She will wave back. Waving is a tradition on this island; there is even a "Lopez wave" consisting of two fingers in a locked together peace sign.

As you make your first twists from the ferry dock, smell the dense trees and dried wild grass. Look for deer: there are many and they are domesticated enough to walk right up to you. Notice a Madrona tree with bark that looks like red peeling paper; scratch the trunk and it turns green. Look out for a Great Blue Heron, they are an elegant and common Lopez Island bird. You can find them almost anywhere in tidal lagoons along the seashore.

You'll see that most people name their driveways after themselves or something original like Pterodactyl Lane, or Baroque 'n Glass Lane. Mailboxes are painted with bald eagles and rich gardens are covered with tall fences to keep deer out. Some people live in make-shift buses, clusters of trailers, or in an A-Frame house. Stop by the Lopez Island Vineyards and pick up a bottle of Siegerrebe. Note that most streets don't have yellow lines and traffic is minimal in any direction. Enjoy the quiet and keep going.

If you're camping, Spencer Spit is the best place to stay. Located on the East side of the island, you can feel good karma there; the Spencer family sold the land to the state for much less than the private offers they received in order to make a state park that everyone could enjoy. Shirley (Spencer) Plummer is 87 years old, and recently became a great, great grandmother, she sits in her living room that overlooks Spencer Spit. It is a stretch of beach like no other, with driftwood, rocks and sand coming together into a single point that stares at Frost Island. The driftwood is easily made into forts. A muddy lagoon lines the spit to the North like a seam and smells as murky as it looks. Pitch your tent along the trees at the mouth of the spit; light a fire; cook some s'mores.

If you like beautiful beaches and down to earth people, you will love Lopez Island. It is a getaway in the simplest sense. Below are 7 things you should do whilst visiting the island.

Iceberg Point – Just past Agate Beach there is a small place to park and then walk into what looks like private residence. When you hit the tree line, turn right down a dirt path; walk through a gate and onto a maintained trail. After less than a mile the trees will open up to the most vast part of the Island; the unprotected South side. Your landscape will be big hills and rocks with tall grass that smells like dry summers. Your view will be of an ocean that seems to go on forever until you see the Olympic Peninsula and Olympic Mountains far in the distance.

Sharks Reef – My favourite spot on the island is Sharks Reef. The water here is treacherous because of undertow and sometimes you will see kayakers twirling and paddling their way through the narrow corridor that separates Lopez Island from San Juan Island. Large pieces of sea kelp that look like women with mermaid hair line the rocks. Here is where you see some of the best tide pools on the Island full of lipids' and sea anemones.

Saturday Farmers Market – Farmers Markets are special no matter where you go. Lopez market's charm lies in its small size. My favourite stall is Marianna's clothing, made of scraps of recycled cloth. She also has a store in the main part of town called Okeydo. Also visit my parent's booth at the market where they sell my brother's photos every Saturday. Introduce yourself!

Horse Drawn Farms – This eco-friendly farm used to use horses to farm the land, but now they use oxen. Produce is pre-picked and you can just drive up, make your selection and leave money based on the honour system. It's as simple and trusting as that.

Community Center – The centre hosts music and community theatre all year long. While you are there, walk North-east to the skate park where young kids are dropping into small half pipes.

The Bay Café – The Bay Café has the most expensive food on the island, averaging at around $20 a plate. But it also offers the most brilliant place to have dinner and watch the sunset as it lies down for the night behind Friday Harbour. The restaurant is run by two local men, with a lot of energy, who know how to bake an amazing cedar salmon. You'll also be guaranteed great hospitality.

Lopez Island Kayaks - Being on an island is amazing enough, getting the chance to see it up close from the water is special too. Rent a kayak, get some advice on routes and get close to the water. If you time your float trip between April and October you may see big rusty-red Lion's mane jellyfish as they make their way towards the beach at low tide.

TRAVELLER'S CHECK LIST

Getting there:

By ferry… Travel from Anacortes on the mainland to Lopez Island. The journey is approximately 85 miles and takes about 45 minutes. For pricing info and to buy tickets click here. On the ferry keep your eyes peeled for bald eagles, seals, otters and the occasional orca whale.

By plane… Kenmore Air fly direct from Seattle to Lopez Island daily. For more information on schedules, pricing and booking click here. The journey takes about 1hr 10 mins.

Where to stay:

  1. Lopez Islander Resort; PO Box 459, Lopez Island, WA; desk@lopezislander.com
  2. MacKaye Harbor Inn; 949 MacKaye Harbor Road Lopez Island, WA 98261; (888) 314-6140; innkeeper@mackayeharborinn.com. From USD 135 per night.
  3. Edenwild; 1-800-606-0662; edenwild@rockisland.com. From USD 170 per night.
  4. Lopez Lodge; Lopez Lodge, Lopez Island, WA 98261; (360) 468-2816; needle@rockisland.com. From USD 70 per night.

For information on camping on Lopez Island, click here

Where to eat:

  1. Bay Café - about $30 a person. 9 Old Post Road Suite C, PO Box 692, Lopez, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.3700
  2. Love Dog Café - $10-$15 per person. 1 Village Center, PO Box 633, Lopez Island, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.2150.
  3. HollyB's Bakery - $5 or less. Lopez Plz, Lopez Island, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.2133.
  4. Vortex - $10 per person for wraps and smoothies. Homestead Bldg C, Lopez Island, WA, 98261; Tel: 360.468.4740.
  5. Isabel's Espresso - $5 or less for espresso drinks. 308 Lopez Rd, Lopez Island, WA, 98261; Tel: 360.468.4114

What to see:

For general information about visit the Lopez Island visitors bureau online here

  1. Iceburg Point and Sharks Reef: click here for a map of Lopez.
  2. Saturday Farmer's Market: Community Center.
  3. Lopez Island Kayak: located at Marinas on Fisherman's Bay 360-468-2847
  4. Horse Drawn Farms: 2823 Port Stanley Road

Events:

  1. Fourth of July on Lopez: fun run, parade, salmon bbq and fireworks
  2. Tour de Lopez (bike tour): last Saturday of April
  3. Lopez Farmer's Market: May to Sept.
  4. Artist's Studio Tour: last weekend in August

For more information on Lopez Island events click here

All photographs ©David Svilar.

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