Stunning photography of landmarks across Asia taken by iloho.coms members. See more and share your travel photos at http://www.iloho.com/landmarks.

As Asia's fast-growing gambling mecca Macau has it all: slick casinos, high-rollers, designer labels, jaw-dropping shows, chic restaurants and huge hotel complexes. In this city of superlatives however, something has been missing: the "boutique" factor. Large-scale, Vegas-esq experiences are easy to come by in Macau, but the more individual and unique factor is harder to find.

The Four Seasons Macau, which opened on the Cotai Strip in August of this year, is doing its best to fill this void. It has brought the promise of something different and more personalised, which is a breath of fresh air for the traveller seeking quiet, comfort and personalised service.

Granted, with 360 rooms the Four Seasons Macau hardly conforms with the traditional perception of boutique, but when compared with behemoths such as the neighbouring Venetian (3,000 rooms) and soon the to be completed Sheraton opposite (some 4,000 rooms) the hotel feels it. The design – contemporary mixed with colonial accents and hints of the orient – brings a unique edge and antique pieces of furniture, sourced from local markets and antique shops, add to the hotel's individuality.

Service reigns supreme here; staff are, without exception, friendly, polite and attentive. Your name will be remembered and your quirks indulged. As one Four Seasons restaurant manager underlined, the hotel is geared towards the discerning traveller seeking a haven of calm and top-notch service. Where many hotels in Macau compete on price, the Four Seasons seeks to differentiate itself by offering the best standard of hospitality.

Rooms are spacious and comfortable. They come kitted out with a 42" plasma screen, WiFi (at an additional cost), vast marble bathrooms with walk-in rain showers, L'Occitane products and deep bathtubs. Don't expect fantastic views, the Cotai Strip is still an eyesore of a building site, instead sink into the big bath and watch TV whilst sipping on something brought up to you by room service.

Guests seeking further peace and quiet should beat a retreat to Windows, which feels more like a country club than a bar / restaurant. Its leather wingback chairs, fireplace and big open-air verandah make it a great spot to enjoy a newspaper and afternoon tea far away from the hustle and bustle of the casino floors.

When it comes to eating, the hotel has a Cantonese restaurant, Zi Yat Heen, as well Belcanção, an extravagant international buffet bulging with European favourites and dim sum. The hotel's most hyped destination though has to be Bar Azul, a stylish spot with moody blue lighting and a slick bar serving wine, cocktails, champagne and fantastic complimentary canapés.

Visitors seeking retail therapy can sleep easy knowing that the new Shoppes at Four Seasons, Macau's first luxury mall, is just metres away. Guests after glitz and glamour have the Venetian's gaming floor on their doorstep, plus Cirque du Soleil's impressive US$150 million production, ZAIA, close at hand (the hotel concierge can arrange tickets or you can book online).

The Four Seasons also offers guests a big outdoor pool complex, plus a spa and fitness facilities.

For more information visit www.fourseasons.com/macau. Room rates start at HKD/MOP 2,700 per night.

Four Seasons Hotel, Macao, Cotai Strip: Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperança, S/N, Taipa, Macau; Tel. +853 2881 8888; Fax. +853 2881 8899.

To explore more hot hotels click here and to read more hotel reviews click here.

W Hotel, new kid on the Hong Kong hotel block, is injecting some serious style into West Kowloon. With its breed of non-traditional luxury it's helping to rejuvenate and glam up this burgeoning area. The hotel opens into Elements mall, the city's newest, and sits next to the ICC, which will be Hong Kong's tallest building upon its completion in 2010.

The hotel aims to create a nature-inspired oasis within Hong Kong's urban jungle. Treelike columns rise up through the hotel lobby and bar, their branches twinkling with fairylights when darkness falls. The 393 guest rooms, designed by Australian firm g+a and Japanese firm Glamorous, are adorned with pretty butterfly motifs or a more masculine wood, fire, earth and metal theme. Even waiting for a lift on the guest floors will leave you feeling like Alice in Wonderland amid large bookshelves.

W Hong Kong's commercial waterfront location makes for some fantastic, if somewhat gritty, views. No kicking back and enjoying the light show from these rooms: W guests can soak-up refreshingly different vistas from the traditional harbourside hotels – think docks and cargo ships rather than luxury cruiseliners and yachts – that cleverly offset the whimsical design theme of the hotel's interior.

The hotel's pool, with its views across the whole of the island, is the exception to this rule. When it is finished this will be one of the city's hottest spots – Hong Kong's highest pool (up on the 76th floor) with a cocktail bar and jacuzzi to boot. Just two floors below is Hong Kong's new Bliss spa, fresh from New York – a haven of tension-fighting treatments such as the Ginger Rub and Triple Oxygen Facial.

Another soon-to-be hotspot is Kitchen, one of the hotel's two restaurants. The chef's table is a nice touch; solo guests can mix and mingle with each other over dinner without the embarrassment of formal introductions or pre-arranged dinner dates. For more reticent guests, there's always the distraction of the restaurant's open kitchen at hand to provide food for thought or topics of conversation. Expect to pay around HKD 450 for three courses (excluding drinks).

All W Hong Kong guests can rest easy knowing the brand's signature Whatever/Whenever attitude applies – from the moment you arrive in the lobby to the time you check out you can have whatever you want, whenever you want it (so long as it's legal apparently). Sounds good to us.

W Hong Kong:

1 Austin Road West, Kowloon Station, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 3717 2222; Fax: +852 3717 2888.

For directions and reservations call +852 2317 3303 or visit whotels.com/hongkong.

By Aaron Humphrey

In the forested mountains high above Kyoto, an enclave of temples and monasteries lies delicately arranged amongst the cedars. This is Koya-san (Mount Koya), home to Buddhist monks since the early ninth century and a serene retreat for devout pilgrims and curious travellers alike. As the centre of Japanese esoteric Shingon Buddhism, Mount Koya has seen the development of dozens of holy buildings over the centuries, and is now home to 120 temples; many of them are happy to host visitors for a night or two.

The journey from Kyoto takes about two hours, and as you pull further away from the city by train, the wait between stations grows longer. Time almost seems to go backwards, each station quieter than the last, as progressively smaller towns replace Kyoto's sprawling suburbs and metropolis. Where the train tracks end, a red cable car awaits to take you on the final, scenic stretch up the mountain.

It's best to book a temple stay ahead of time, and there are plenty to choose from, ranging in price from ¥10,000 – ¥20,000 (US$105-$210/£68-£135). Included in that price are two meals, dinner and breakfast, which are prepared by the monks. Meals consist of traditional vegetarian dishes, from nuts and lotus root to tofu soup and tempura leaves, the food is plentiful, and as delicious as it is unique. Sitting on tatami mats and sampling the food of Mount Koya ranks among the most memorable culinary experiences in a country bursting with them.

After dinner dusk begins to settle on Koya-san, casting an even more mysterious air to the sacred mountain, this is the perfect time to stroll through the cemetery, where thousands of graves and shrines fill the quiet, mossy forest. This is Japan's largest graveyard, home to stone jizo statues and memorials of all sizes, centred around the mausoleum where the founder of Shingon lies, not dead, according to the faithful, but merely meditating for the arrival of the Buddha of the Future. Here, many hundreds of small lanterns glow a colour between red and ginger throughout the night. Some of them are said to have remained lit for over a millennium, part of Mount Koya's timeless serenity.

Getting there: Travel by train to Gokurakubashi station at the bottom of Koya-san. From Gokurakubashi visitors take a cable car to the top of the mountain, which takes 5 minutes. For more detailed travel information, click here

Stay:

Many Buddhist monasteries on Koya-san function as hotels and provide traditional accommodation that includes an evening meal and breakfast. Try Shojoshin-in one of the oldest temples on Koya-san, which offers Japanese style guest rooms as well as a "hanare" (private guest residence with bathroom), Japanese-style gardens and a pond.

See:

Kongobuji temple: Koyasan Shingon Buddhism's headquarters. The temple boasts a stone garden that is said to outshine many of Kyoto's best.

Oku-no-In: the mausoleum of Kukai, the monk who first settled Koya-san, which is illuminated by thousands of lanterns.

Konpon Daito pagoda and the Garan temple: Garan Temple is one Mount Koya's most sacred temples and was designed by Kukai. The Konpon Daito pagoda sits within the temple's grounds and is said to represent both the central point Mount Koya and all of Japan.

Photos:

Lanterns #3 by mrlins via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Koyasan Mountain Rail by Sofia Brightsea via Flickr (Creative Commons).

koyasan - 高野山 by kanjiroushi via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Chic boutique, Naumi, sits right next to the grand dame of Singapore's hotel scene, Raffles. Where Raffles oozes colonial charm and splendour, Naumi flaunts cutting-edge design and contemporary cool.

The lobby houses big pod chairs in its blue-lit bar; the hotel's façade boasts a quirky steel and foliage sculpture; the small rooftop infinity pool offers more pod-like chairs to relax and admire the view in; every hotel guest has an "aide" to ensure that their stay in Singapore is as stress free and personalised as possible.

Naumi's 40 rooms are large and their huge double beds decadently luxurious. Every room is equipped with a free mini-bar that is restocked daily, a Nespresso machine, kitchenette or pantry, en-suite bathroom, iPod dock, 42" to 50" flatscreen TV that you can rotate to watch either in bed or on the sofa, desk area and yoga mat. Suites are well worth splashing out for: they come with a good sized living area, big bathrooms with free standing baths and, in some cases, a private patio. Free WiFi is available throughout the hotel and local landline phone calls are complimentary.

Solo female travellers can sleep easy knowing that there's a women's only floor, separated from the rest of the hotel by a glass security panel. Here satin room accessories and Aesop skincare products abound. The hotel even offers special aromatherapy baths in the privacy of your own room. Heaven.

Naumi is located in the heart of the central business district on Seah Street, which has mercifully been spared the faceless corporate makeover that nearby streets have suffered. Many of Singapore's attractions are within easy walking distance (yes, even in the city's infamous humidity!).

Fitness fiends are in safe hands; the hotel offers three fitness rooms catering to yoga bunnies, runners and weights lovers alike.

Room rates start at 360 Singapore Dollars per night (£150 / US$240).

Naumi Hotel: 41 Seah Street, Singapore 188396 Tel: +65 6403 6000; Fax: +65 6403 6010; Email: naumiaide@naumihotel.com; Web: www.naumihotel.com.

By Nora Dunn

Whilst visiting Tokyo, you slip your taxi driver a small tip for taking you to your destination so promptly and courteously. Little did you know you just offended him beyond reproach. Or you get out of the cab in Mexico, only to find that you must have either over-tipped your driver or have entered the twilight zone because the serenade you are getting now seems a little over the top considering all you did was toss in the equivalent of an extra dollar or two. Or you walk out of a bar in Canada, wondering why the bartender ignored you for 10 minutes when you went to order your third drink – without tipping for any of them.

As with so many cultural idiosyncrasies around the world, tipping is a prevalent and ever-changing custom that differs as much with each country as the language or topography does. In North America, tipping is common, and in many cases downright expected. Servers and bartenders for example, often earn less than the minimum hourly wage, because it is expected that they will also earn tips that amount to 15%-20% of their customers' bills. In other countries like Australia, tips are lovely but not expected; and the servers and bartenders are paid an hourly wage to reflect this.

So while abroad, who do you tip and how much? Here is a small collection of tipping practices around the world you can use as a guide.

NORTH AMERICA

Arguably, North American culture dictates more tipping than anywhere else in the world. Make sure you have some extra cash handy!

Canada

• Restaurants and Bars: 15% (Hint: If you're at a bar, tip the bartender well on the first drink you order. You'll get great service for the rest of the night, and if you tip really well on the first drink you aren’t necessarily expected to keep tipping on every drink thereafter. If you wait until the end of the night you may be the victim of bad service.)
• Taxi drivers: No set formula. Usually just round up the fare a few dollars.
• Spas: 10-15%
• Food delivery: $2-5, depending on the weather
• Coat Check: $1 per coat
• Hotel bellhop: $5-10
• Hotel chambermaids: $2-5/day

USA

• Restaurants: 18-20%
• Bars: 15%
• Taxi: 10-15% of fare
• Spas: 15%
• Food delivery: $2-5, depending on the weather
• Coat Check: $1 per coat
• Hotel bellhop: $5-10
• Hotel chambermaids: $2-5/day

ASIA

In many parts of Asia in general, tips are welcome but ones that are extravagant can be seen as an insult.

Singapore

• Restaurants & Bars: Generally no tips are required. Upscale dining will auto-gratuity 10%.
• Taxis: No tipping required
• Spas: $2-4 Singapore dollars (hand it directly to the staff who served you). This applies to shampoo person and manicurist, but strangely the hair stylist rarely gets tipped.
• Hotel service staff: $2S, however often you will see "no tipping required" signs so you can use your judgement depending on the quality of hotel you are staying at.

Hong Kong As above.

China Tipping policies are non-existent. Foreigners are generally charged more to begin with.

Japan Don't.

LATIN AMERICA

Mexico Do! Tips are expected by pretty much everybody who services you in any way.

• Restaurants & Bars: 15%
• Taxis: Tipping is not necessary. Usually you have negotiated a flat fare that encompasses the tip.
• Spas: 10%

Brazil

• Restaurants & Bars: Look for the 10% service charge on the bill. If it's not there, then tip 10%.
• Taxis: No tipping required, but it's always nice to round up a bit if you can.
• Spa: 10%-15%
• Hotels: The service charge is usually included in the bill.
• Chambermaids: Only tip at luxury hotels: $1-$2

EUROPE

Germany

Germans are not big tippers in general, but tips are still welcome and, in some cases, expected.

Note: Look for the words "Trinkgeld Inbegriffen" on your bill… If you see them, it means that the service charge has been included already. No need to leave any extra!

• Restaurants & Bars: 10%
• Taxis: 10%
• Spas: €1-€2 will do for a hair stylist, and €1 for the shampoo technician. Tipping on other spa services depends on the cost and nature of the service; 10% is usually a safe bet.
• Hotel chambermaid: Only tip if you are happy with the service, and leave it in the room when you leave.
• Hotel bellhops: €2-€3

Switzerland Pretty much across the board, 15% tips are included in the bills. As in Germany, keep your eyes peeled for the words "Trinkgeld Inbegriffen" to make sure. If the service was outstanding and you want to tip more, then you can give up to 10% extra. Also if you plan to become a regular, this is a great idea!

France

• Restaurants & Bars: A service charge of 15% is usually included in the bill. You'll know if the words "servis compris" appear.
• Taxis: Drivers don't require or expect tips.
• Spas: Look for the service charge to be included in the bill. If it's not, then 10%-15% will do, and only if you are happy with the service.

Italy

• Restaurants & Bars: Tips are not expected. There are often cover charges or bread charges, which take the place of general tipping practices. If you really wish you can leave a small amount at the table.

Again, and as with so many European destinations, a service charge may be included. "Servizio compreso" will be your hint.

United Kingdom

• Restaurants: Tipping is not necessarily expected, but is very welcome. 10%-15% will do. Unlike many other European destinations, service charges are rarely included in the bill.
• Bars: Don't tip in cash. You can offer to buy the bartender a drink if you're happy with the service. They'll then add the price of half a pint on to your tab (sometimes they’ll pour the drink for themselves, but most times they’ll just keep the cash).
• Taxis: 10%

DOWN UNDER

Australia Tipping in Australia is almost non-existent. Generally speaking if you are happy with the service, nobody will say no or be offended that you want to give them money. They're just not expecting tips – at least not from the locals!

• Restaurants & Bars: If you thought the service was great, you can tip up to 10%.

New Zealand No tips are required. Service charges are almost always included in the bill.

MISCELLANEOUS

Egypt Tips in Egypt are most certainly expected, but the amount is at your discretion. When in doubt, tip like you do at home.

Russia Restaurants & Bars: 10% Taxis: 5%-10%

This is by no means a comprehensive guide to tipping around the world. Within each country practices can vary, much less within each geographical region. So how can you best be sure you are following customs and not offending anybody by being stingy, while not getting pinned as a naïve tourist by over-tipping? Ask! Most people will be quite honest with you about standard tipping practices. And if you’re embarrassed about asking your potential tippee what to do, then ask at an information desk at the airport or your hotel.

Happy tipping!

Extra Tipping Resources:

Political Calculations This site includes a chart of all the countries mentioned above and more with general guidelines for tipping and cultural practices.

International Business Etiquette Internet Sourcebook Here you will find links to sites for business etiquette tips around the world - a very useful tool, even if you aren't travelling for business.

Best Trip Choices A great resource for trip planning, from weather to ATM locations to travel insurance and more.

You may have seen yesterday's iloho newsletter, which featured the stunning Ranthambore National Park in Rajasthan, India. The park is home to one of the largest populations of India's wild tigers.

Today, we came across this photo of "Scuba Tiger" by digitalART2 on Flickr and thought it fit nicely with the tiger theme in the newsletter.

It's a great shot, it's just a shame the photographer doesn't note where it was taken. If you're reading this, please let us know!

By Rachel Turner

Groggy with sleep, I pulled back the mosquito net from around my bed and headed to the bathroom for a shower. With my hand on the tap, I looked up at the ceiling. A scream caught in my throat as I grabbed a towel and rushed out of the wooden chalet into the early morning sun. I bounded down the stairs and headed toward the front desk to ask someone to remove the wine bottle-sized gecko from my bathroom. Before I made it though I was greeted by another lizard; this one as big as a toddler.

When I landed on Malaysia's Perhentian Kecil ("Small Perhentian"), I was stunned. I didn't believe that a place like this still existed. I thought finding such a sweet slice of paradise would require a mid-Pacific shipwreck. But there I was, a mere 19 kilometres from mainland Malaysia, toe deep in island clichés. The clear turquoise water quietly slurped at white beaches of sugar-fine sand. Tiny wooden chalets stood alert at the jungle's edge, ready for lodgers. Lush green flora blanketed the soaring cliffs. Every sunset was postcard perfect, every day bright and hot. Save for my abnormally large lizard neighbours, the place was straight out of a fantasy.

Given that the island I was staying on was little more than sand and jungle, being entertained indoors was out of the question. I couldn't wait to dive into the warm, clear water. Dive shops are littered all along Long Beach (the more populous of Kecil’s two beaches). They offer a variety of courses for beginners, as well as a ton of fun dives. Divers can swim through the Temple of the Sea, check out the coral garden at De Lagoon, or explore the sunken Sugar Ship Wreck. I was told that the water surrounding the island is home to barracudas, sea turtles, triggerfish, unicornfish, groupers, and the list goes on and on.

I'm more adept at skimming the surface and for RM 40 (US$11.50 / £6.50) I joined an all-day snorkelling tour. Bright and early, I boarded a boat with only three others. Our first stop was a coral garden where curious fish swam around me, brave ones nipping at my fingertips. Over the course of the afternoon we stopped at Shark Point, home to black tipped reef sharks, swam with sea turtles near Perhentian Besut, and stopped for lunch in a quaint fishing village. Before heading back to home base, we made a final stop on a deserted beach to soak up the sun.

My days spent in the Perhentians involved a lot of rest and relaxation. I swam, snorkelled, and strolled through the jungle. I popped down to the Bubu Long Beach Resort for a massage in a beachside cabana. I sipped fruity cocktails while watching the technicolour sunset. The island was without a serious party vibe. Pounding all-night discos were replaced with driftwood tables on the sand, lively conversation, and a few beers amongst new friends.

On Perhentian Kecil, most hotels and restaurants are scattered along Long Beach and Coral Bay, on the opposite site of the island. Long Beach, the livelier of the two, was where the majority of backpackers congregated. I checked out a few guesthouses and settled on the Panorama Chalets (http://malaysia-panorama.com), smack in the middle of the beach. For RM 100 (US$29 / £16), I secured a double room complete with air con and hot water... when the electricity was on (be sure to ask about electricity hours before checking into your hotel. Most places do not have 24-hour electricity). Movies are shown every night, and many room rates include free dinner from a fully-stocked restaurant.

Clean, clear air, peaceful solitude, and a pace just above a standstill drew me to Malaysia's Perhentian Islands. Forgoing big-city conveniences like Internet cafes and roads made me not want to leave. While there, bright white sand, lush jungle, polychromatic coral, and a few abnormally large lizards surrounded me. By the time I left, I truly felt like I had got away from it all.

TRAVELLER'S CHECK

Getting There: If you are starting your journey from Kuala Lumpur, catch an Air Asia flight to Kota Bharu (www.airasia.com). From the airport, catch a taxi or bus to the ferry terminal in Kuala Besut. A taxi with air-con will cost around RM 70. From there, hop on a speed boat for a 45-minute ride to Perhentian Kecil. Boat tickets cost RM 60 each way, plus pay the extra RM 2 fee to be dropped off at Long Beach instead of at the jetty. A cheaper, slower ferry is also available.

Where to Stay: Panorama Chalet is located in the centre of Long Beach. Double rooms with air conditioning and attached bathroom cost RM 100. Opt for shared bath and fan-cooled rooms to cut down on costs. Visit their website for more information: http://malaysia-panorama.com. If you choose to stay on the opposite side of the island at Coral Bay, check out the Senja Bay Resort. Here a fan room will set you back RM 100. The views from this hotel are stunning, and the staff is friendly. Holiday packages and other rates can be found at www.senjabay.com

Where to Eat: Most restaurants on Kecil are attached to hotels. The Panorama Chalet restaurant serves up local Malay food as well as western favourites. For a meal that's a little more up-market, check out the menu at Bubu Long Beach Resort.

Typhoon Nuri is heading straight to Hong Kong and is set to hit us at 2pm tomorrow.

We thought it was apt to pick a stormy HK shot today and liked this one, Stormclouds, by Denn on Flickr.

This one, Lighting 03, by moonsheep is also fantastic.

By Stephan Larose for ChinaTravel.net

A self-guided tour of Beijing's new architectural marvels, from the Bird's Nest to the Egg to the Cube to the Wingless Dragon and beyond....

If you've been paying any attention to China at all in the past year, you've no doubt caught the hype on the Discovery Channel's Extreme Engineering or in countless newspaper and magazine articles. Beijing—long famed for ancient classics of Chinese architecture, from the Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven to the Great Wall — has been boldly remaking itself with one futuristic architectural statement building after another, inviting the world's most innovative starchitects to make their marks.

If you're in Beijing for the Olympics or just for a visit, you'll want to check out the city's new cast of starchitect-designed buildings, from the Egg to the Bird's Nest and beyond. But there's no need to line up a tour guide—here at ChinaTravel.net, we've got you covered with a quick outline for an independent self-guided tour of Beijing's newest architectural marvels. All you'll need is a pair of walking shoes, a bottle of water, change for the subway and, of course, your camera!

Norman Foster's Wingless Dragon, Beijing's Terminal 3

That's right, you've just gotten off the plane and already you're there! Another building in a long line of made-in-China world's __est structures, this one, a glass and steel dragon of unprecedented size, is touted as the largest and most advanced airport building in the world.

Jaw-droppingly vast in scale, Terminal 3's most impressive fact may be the speed with which this monster was put up. Bigger than all of London's Heathrow terminals combined (and perhaps 1,000 times as efficient and 500 times less obnoxious), Beijing's Terminal 3 went up in less time than it took just to conduct Heathrow Terminal Five's planning inquiry, making it a tribute to central planning and to the steely determination of the 50,000 workers responsible for finishing it in time to welcome hordes of Olympics tourists.

Terminal 3's 3.25 km of feng-shui-friendly red and gold concourses perfectly match the dominant colours of Beijing's prize attractions, the Summer Palace and the Forbidden City—a respectful gesture to China's past and traditions. Looking forward, by 2020 the terminal is expected to process over 50 million passengers a year. Think that's enough to handle China's growing share of air traffic? Think again—there are plans to build a staggering 96 more airports throughout the country, though it's a safe bet that none will rival the jewel of Beijing Capital's crown.

After taking a look around, hop onto the newly opened Airport Express subway and take it to the first stop: Sanyuanqiao Station (this is assuming you don't need to hit the hotel and sleep off a transcontinental flight—if you're into contemporary architecture, we recommend checking out one of the following new hotels: the Kempinski's Commune by the Great Wall or the Hotel Kapok).

Disembark and transfer to Line 10, heading to Bagou Station. Keep your eyes peeled—you'll want to get off at Beitucheng Station, which exits onto the opening of the massive Olympic Green and the site of your next superstar buildings, and perhaps the most recognizable of them all.

The Bird's Nest (Niaochao) and Watercube (Shuilifang)

The Olympic Greens, Beijing's newest urban parkland, are great for walking and sightseeing — they're full of Olympic-themed sculpture, art and fun rest spots. To get to the Bird's Nest, walk north on Beichen Lu, and soon you'll see it on your right with the Watercube on your left.

The Bird's Nest — officially known as Beijing National Stadium — is easily the most iconic of Beijing's Olympic structures. It's hosting all Olympic track and field events and Beijing football matches (Shanghai Stadium will also see some football action), all to be played before crowds of 100,000. If you're among them, you'll be one of the privileged few to appreciate Herzog and deMeuron's architectural masterpiece up close.

Monstrous steel elements weighing up to 350 tons a piece have been intertwined in a way that actually makes this gargantuan structure look delicate. The building has received both praise and criticism for its unconventional and potentially risky design — over 70% of the building's weight hangs over the audience's head.

Critics notwithstanding, there's no doubt the Bird's Nest represents a massive accomplishment for the Chinese. As an architectural marvel, an unmistakable landmark and an iconic Olympic image, it will undoubtedly be a source of pride for years to come.

The Watercube, although less grandiose in scale, almost manages to upstage its neighbour. A childlike simplicity and enchanting bubble motif mask an incredibly sophisticated design. The builders, a consortium of Chinese and Australian firms, employed a quasi-magical material called ETFE, a species of teflon, to give the cube its bubblicious glam quotient.

Designed to react to changing light conditions, it's the material responsible for the Water Cube's stunning visual effects, which are best viewed at night. The walls, which capture up to 90% of ambient and solar heat, slowly shift through a range of colours. It's almost enough to make you forget that the action is inside, not outside the building.

After you're done taking in these two Olympic icons, hop on to the subway and head back down to Beitucheng Station, where you'll transfer back to Line 10, this time heading in the opposite direction, towards Jinsong Station. Exit at Jintaixizhao Station. When you exit, make your way north along the East Third Ring North Road, and you'll see building four of your tour almost immediately.

Rem Koolhass's Twisted Masterpiece: The CCTV National HQ

The new CCTV headquarters is undoubtedly the world's most unconventional high rise, and, like the Bird's Nest and Wingless Dragon, it's already earned itself a few amusing nicknames, including the dakucha or the "big pants" and the less flattering, but more literally accurate, waiqu dalou (歪曲大楼) or "twisted building," with a heavy implication of "twisted news," though we honestly can't imagine why the home of China's state television media would warrant such a sour sobriquet.

Sure, there's lots of controversy surrounding this gravity-defying behemoth, but one thing is certain: this building cements Beijing's reputation as a global centre for experimental architectural design. The alarming angles and bending bridge section may seem chancy for earthquake-prone Beijing, but the design incorporates a massive encapsulating grid of diagonal beams that thicken around stress points to minimize the risk.

For the less sceptical, the building's eyebrow-raising design represents a consciousness shift away from the rigid mindsets of careful control of social order towards something more improvisational and open minded. Check it out: you be the judge (note , however, that any change in mindset hasn't extended to the interior of this fabulous building, which remains closed to any but CCTV employees and special guests).

After snapping a few pics you'll want to hop back on the metro and head south (same direction as before) and transfer to Line 1 at Guomao Station. Head west towards Pinguoyuan and get off at Tian'anmen West. This is the last stop on your tour, right in Beijing's cultural heart, near Tian'anmen Square and the Forbidden City. So once you're done admiring the new National Centre for the Performing Arts, you'll be able to join the tourist throngs wandering Beijing's most famed ancient landmarks.

Paul Andrew's Egg

Many visitors will probably find this to be Beijing's prettiest new structure, with its smooth graceful lines and curves. Be that as it may, "the Egg" seems to be the building that's gotten the most flack from Beijingers. They've even called it huai dan, the "Rotten Egg," for disrupting Beijing's feng shui.

The architects mindfully incorporated the circle-and-square / heaven-and-earth theme present in so many pinnacles of Chinese culture, like the Summer Palace, but, if many locals are to be believed, they flubbed it. The Egg's square half thoroughly disrupts the concentric circles weaving out from the Forbidden City, and unfortunately, that's the motif around which all of Beijing was originally designed. People say it's an impostor and an alien monstrosity. And there is indeed a drastic contrast between this über-modern structure and that epitome of tradition sitting next door, the Forbidden City.

Still, despite all the local disparagement, many visitors are certain to fall in love with Paul Andrew's Egg. The sky is mirrored its semi-transparent, golden-netted glass walls, allowing onlookers outside to enjoy the play of colours as the lights of dawn and dusk interact with the building's massive titanium and glass shell

Now you're done with your tour of Beijing's 21st century icons, and, if you start early enough, you'll have time left to explore the city's older side, from Tian'anmen Square to the Forbidden City and Beihai Park.

Enjoy!

All images © ChinaTravel.net

Travel + Leisure magazine has made life easy for visitors to China with their tips and tools to help travellers a successful trip to the middle kingdom.

In their words, "China can seem as impenetrable as it is imposing. Consider the numbers: it's the world's most populous nation (1.3 billion), where more than 100 cities have populations over a million. Fifty-six ethnic groups are spread across 22 wildly distinct provinces and five autonomous regions, in a landmass slightly larger than the U.S. Its history seems limitless and its traditions just as deep. But here and now, change is the only real constant—and it is accelerating at a dizzying pace. (One thousand new cars hit the streets of Beijing every day.)"

No wonder so many newcomers to China find the country so intimidating.

Itinerary wise, T+L recommends the following highlights:

Beijing: 2–3 days

China’s political, historical, and cultural capital demands at least three days—for the familiar landmarks of Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, and also for Beijing’s 21st-century architecture, such as the “Bird’s Nest” Olympic National Stadium by Herzog & de Meuron and the glass-and-titanium dome that is the National Grand Theater. China’s contemporary art scene finds its nexus in the galleries and cafés of the Dashanzi Art District, home to the new Ullens Center for Contemporary Art. Beijing’s atmospheric hutong, or traditional alleyways, are fast disappearing; explore the bustling ones off Nanluoguxiang, near the 13th-century Drum and Bell towers. Then check out the Legation Quarter, a high-end restaurant, entertainment, and cultural development set within the former American Embassy compound. And save a morning to stroll the manicured, 660-acre grounds of the Temple of Heaven, site of the circular Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, the 15th-century apogee of Chinese ritual architecture.

The Great Wall

Numerous stretches of the Great Wall are easily accessible from Beijing (ask your hotel to arrange a car or bus tour). But avoid the tourist trap of Badaling and head to the slightly less trammeled Mutianyu section, a 90-minute drive northeast of the Forbidden City. Early morning is best; try Asia 1 on 1 (asia1on1.com) for day trips.

Shanghai: 2–3 days

First stop: the riverfront promenade known as the Bund, with its Art Deco, Neoclassical, and Beaux-Arts façades, bars and shops, and views of the space-age towers of Pudong. In People’s Park you’ll find the Shanghai Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art. Weekdays are the best time to wander among the pine trees and ponds of the 16th-century Yuyuan Gardens. Xintiandi was the birthplace of the Chinese Communist Party; now this restored two-block district is defined by upscale shops and restaurants. The leafy, rustic French Concession is the favored destination for cutting-edge fashion and designs for the home. Shanghai’s latest secret? Lane 248, a gritty, narrow street now inhabited by artsy cafés and intimate boutiques, hidden behind Taikang Road.

Guilin: 2 days

(Two hours by air from Shanghai.) With its sheer limestone peaks jutting up from the Li River, Guilin is straight out of a traditional Chinese landscape painting, and remains one of China’s most breathtaking sights. Take in the view from Solitary Beauty Peak and marvel at the formations of the Reed Flute Cave. Spring and fall are best; avoid the heat of July and the crowds of the holiday seasons.

Xi’an: 2 days

(Two hours by air from Beijing.) China’s ancestral capital is renowned for its “terra-cotta army,” created during the Qin dynasty (221–207 B.C.): thousands of life-size clay warriors stand in formation as part of the funerary complex of China’s first emperor, with much more yet to be excavated. You’ll need at least two days here to take in the warriors, see the Shang dynasty bronze relics at the Shaanxi History Museum, walk along the Old City walls, and visit the Da Mai market.

Datong: 2 days

(One hour by air or six hours by scenic train ride from Beijing.) Majestic Qing dynasty frescoes are the standout in the celebrated temple district. Nearby excursions include the awesome Buddhist sculptures in the Yungang Grottoes and the Hanging Temple of Mount Hengshan, which clings precipitously to the side of a cliff. Not far away are some especially beautiful eroded mud-brick ruins of the Great Wall.

The article also includes must-read taxi tips, hotel recommendations, shopping advice and strategies, must-eat food, and six great new books on China. Happy days.

I was warned against expecting too much from Kota Kinabalu. Borneo is reputed to be a paradise, and the state capital of Kota Kinabalu the thorn in its side. Three days, four tropical islands, too many Piña Coladas and a lot of sleep later it's difficult to see KK as anything other than a diverse and underrated paradise.

Arriving in daylight hours it’s easy to concur with the negative opinions: on first sight, the town of Kota Kinabalu is no beauty. Landing under the cover of darkness, whisked to a luxurious hotel, handed a cocktail, and surrounded by the sounds of the South China Sea is, however, an altogether different experience.

The hotel, The Tanjung Hotel Resort & Spa, was nothing like the rowdy resort I half expected. The bars and restaurants are airy and sophisticated, the rooms modern and supremely comfortable with amazing views across the sea to lush, tropical islands. The family crowds are easy to avoid – the pool area is vast with plenty of quiet corners, there’s a private beach and a brand new spa, Chi, which opened at the end of 2007.

A stone’s throw from The Tanjung Hotel is Tunku Abdul Rahan National Park, 49 square kilometers of coral reefs and paradise islands. Those in search of tranquillity and untouched sands should make a beeline for Sulug, where there are quiet beaches and good reef for snorkelling. Manukan is a great island for beaches, walking trails, outdoor barbeques and more snorkelling.

Fans of monitor lizards should head to Sapi, where dozens roam just behind the beach. Beach Bums Borneo operates speed boats to the islands hourly from The Tanjung Hotel’s jetty. A return journey costs 40 MYR.

In the other direction lies the impressive Mount Kinabalu (4,095m). Not only is it one of the world’s most important biological sites, but it also gives adventure junkies a run for their money. Intrepid hikers can opt to spend a day and a half (which includes a night on the mountain) scaling the summit. The Tanjung Hotel can help to make hiking arrangements.

If hotel dining isn’t your thing, or you just want to get out and explore, the town centre is only a few minutes from Tanjung in a taxi. Good options include the food stalls in Central Market and Sedco Square for cheap and delicious open air restaurants. For something more upmarket try The Mediterranean Bar and Restaurant at First Beach.

Those who really want to get away from it all, and have longer than just a couple of days, can try The Tanjung Hotel’s sister resort, Rasa Ria, The Manukan Island Resort or Gayana Eco Resort. For a relaxing, easy weekend though you can’t do better than The Tanjung Hotel Resort & Spa.