Travel Photography Tips, Beijing: Where To Get The Best Shots Of The City
Posted by Emma Torry on July 21, 2009 at 05:22 PM
Beijing must rank as one of the world's best cities for shutterbugs. From world-famous sights like the Forbidden City, with its vermilion walls and brocade-like golden eaves, to the grey muted tones of the city's hutong alleys where locals sit and watch the world cycle by, Beijing's colours and contrasts are there for the taking.
But while travel photographers seek to capture the essence of traditional Beijing – and watching the sun set on the Forbidden City from the summit of Jingshan Park is unbeatable – don't overlook the best of the new, from the Egg - the futuristic and austere looking National Centre for the Performing Arts near Tiananmen Square - to the quirky and twisted CCTV Building, now bordered by the burnt out remains of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel which was set on fire by fireworks in February. The burnt out shell might not be pretty, but photographic? Definitely.
These tips aim to help photography loving travellers and travel loving photographers come home armed with the best Beijing shots possible. If a picture can paint a thousand words, imagine what a really good picture can do…

THE TRADITIONAL
The Lama Temple: The Lama Temple is the Beijing's biggest Buddhist temple and it is splendidly atmospheric. The complex, which is made up of brightly coloured courtyards, prayer halls and statues, is experiencing a resurgence in popularity, and the contrast between mini-skirted women with Louis Vuitton bags burning incense watched by chanting shaven-haired monks is worth a few shots. The best time to head here is first thing in the morning or just before it shuts at 4.30pm.
12 Yonghegong Dajie, Dongcheng district. Tel: +86 10 6404 4499; Open daily 9 – 4.30pm; Nearest subway: Lama Temple.

Confucius Temple: About 50 metres north of the Lama Temple is this quiet but impressive temple which commemorates Confucius, China's best-known philosopher. First built in 1302, the complex has been knocked down and renovated throughout its history and while there are plenty of un-renovated gently fading buildings, the newly painted buildings are bright and inviting. The temple's courtyard is full of stele, commemorating the scholars that passed the imperial exam during the Qing, Ming and part of the Yuan dynasties: unfortunately you cannot read the characters on the stele anymore because of weathering. This temple receives relatively few visitors, so if you need a break from the crowds but want some shots of imperial architecture, head here.
13 Guozijian Jie, Dongcheng district. Tel: +86 10 8402 7224; Open daily 9 -5pm; Nearest Subway: Lama Temple.
Beijing's Hutongs (around the Drum and Bell Towers): Just north of the square between these two towers is a maze of historic Qing dynasty alleys where you're near guaranteed to get that hutong money shot. Think peeling paint, old men playing checkers, people bicycling by... Look out for Doufuchi Hutong where Mao Zedong used to live, before taking a left onto Baochao Hutong. The charm of the area is finding it: you have to navigate yourself round winding lanes and will probably encounter more than one dead-end, but who cares? Just watch out for the rickshaw riders who power round corners at speed just as you're focusing your shot.
North of Drum and Bell Towers, Gulou Dajie, Dongcheng district; Nearest Subway: Gulou.
THE NEW

The Egg: Ahead of the 2008 Olympics, Beijing's authorities added some architectural spice with the unveiling of the National Centre for Performing Arts mere metres from Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. Some absolutely hate the building, and it certainly stands out in the area for being more space-age than Stalinist. Designed by French architect Paul Andreu, the building steals the limelight from the two historical and political symbols of the capital and while few seem to actually go into the building to see a performance, there are always lots of photographers capturing the place through their viewfinders.
Xi Chang'an Jie, Xicheng district; Nearest Subway: Tiananmen West.

The Watercube: The Beijing Olympic Games served as a catalyst for one of the most dramatic reinventions ever seen by a city, and every keen travel photographer should catch the subway to the Olympic Park to see the twisted pylons of the National Stadium, popularly known as the Bird's Nest, and the dramatic over-sized bubbles of the National Aquatics Centre, aka the Watercube. I prefer the latter for its eye-catching exterior that looks good close-up or from a distance. You can even go for a swim there, and act out those Michael Phelps fantasies, after you've got your shots.
Olympic Green, Haidian district; Nearest Subway: Olympic Green.
THE QUIRKY
The Workers' Stadium: If Soviet-style art gets your heart racing but a trip to Russia isn't on the agenda, rest assured that there are plenty of throwbacks to a bygone era dotted around Beijing. The Workers' Stadium, which was the venue for the football competitions at the Olympics in 2008, was built in 1959 when relations between China and Russia were warm and comradely. At the entrance look out for the huge statue of a suspiciously western looking couple, with the muscle-bound man holding a flag aloft, and a woman raising her right arm in triumph. They don't make them like this anymore…
Workers' Stadium, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang district; Nearest subway: Dongsishitiao.

Beach life, Beijing style: The city may be land-locked, but that doesn't stop Beijing's millions of residents – sometimes it seems all at the same time – from wanting to cool down with a swim and descending on Tuanjiehu Park in the centre of the city. It's a people-watching, travel photographer's paradise: tattooed young dudes on the prowl ogling high heeled wearing bikini-clad babes mix in with young kids splashing around watched by eagle-eyed parents and grandparents who sit sedately on the artificial beach.
Tuanjiehu Park, Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang district. Tel: +81 10 8597 4677; Nearest subway: Tuanjiehu.
For more travel information about Beijing, click here.
Photo Credits: confucius prayers by latigi. All other images by Helena Iveson.
This really puts those "adventurous" long weekend into perspective. We spotted this video on Gadling and headed over to YouTube to check it out.
German traveller, Christoph Rehage, walked across China from Beijing to Ürümqi. Here's a video summary of his amazing trip and incredible facial hair growth.
One of the best things about Beijing is the mouth-watering food, but recreating delicious dishes like steamed ribs with fermented soybeans and dry stir-fried green beans at home can be difficult – unless that is, you went to a Hutong Cuisine cooking class during your visit.

Professional cook Chun Yi, who speaks perfect English, holds informal and fun classes everyday from her home, where she teaches a selection of her favourite dishes from the Sichuan province, home to some of China's spiciest and most memorable dishes.
Don't worry if the nearest you've been to cooking Chinese food is cracking open a fortune cookie, as Chun Yi starts with the basics. First thing in the morning there's an optional market tour where she will talk you through the myriad of different vegetables available in China, covering everything from choosing cai xin or cai sum for blanched vegetable dishes, to what the different types of soy bean pastes are used for.

Once you've returned to her courtyard home, just off one of Beijing's trendiest hutong alleys, the aprons go on and the knives come out. Classes are kept to a maximum of six people, each of whom has their own cooking space around a big table. It's a good job there's plenty of room as Chun Yi teaches you how to wield a fearsome looking cleaver.
Once you've mastered knife skills, the real fun begins and after four hours you'll have cooked three different dishes and, if you're anything like me, will have eaten everything with gusto. Well, you've been slaving in the kitchen for a few hours – you deserve it, right?
Cooking classes cost 180RMB per person for 4 hours and every day there is a different menu. Check Chun Yi’s website for details, www.hutongcuisine.com.
For more posts about Beijing, click here.
Photos by Helena Iveson.
Chinese food doesn't really exist. It's obvious when you think about it that in a country with a population of 1.3 billion, people aren't going to be whipping up something from the same cookbook. One of the greatest delights of travelling in China is the huge array of mouth-watering regional cuisines on offer.
One of the best is found in the Yunnan province in the south-west of the country, where light and spicy is the name of the game and ingredients like mushrooms and flowers as well as goats cheese and ham feature prominently.
If a trip to the province isn't on the cards, the next best option is a trip to Dali Courtyard near the Drum and Bell Towers in Beijing. A true gem, Dali is small but filled with character. The intimate restaurant is set around a beautiful and traditional courtyard, and there's nowhere finer to eat outdoors than here in Beijing's sweltering summer.

The restaurant owner, a native of Dali, imports ingredients from her home region, and local Beijingers find the cuisine on offer as exotic as the average foreign visitor. It's difficult to make specific recommendations as the chef serves a set menu that changes daily depending on what's in stock – perfect for the indecisive as well as the greedy as the dishes keep coming and coming. If you're lucky, fried goat's cheese and the incredible mixed mushroom dish with mint and lemongrass will be on the (non-existent) menu.
It's one of the few places in the city where it is best to call ahead to book, so if you're after some of the best food in Beijing make sure you do.
For more restaurant recommendations, click here.
Dali Courtyard, 16 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie (20m east of the Nanluoguxiang north entrance), Dongcheng district; Tel: +86 10 8404 1430; Opening Hours: 11am-2pm and 6pm-11pm daily.
Photo Credit: Dinner at Dali Courtyard by bjohnsme via Flickr (Creative Commons).
Not yet discovered by the travelling hordes, Hotel G, 5 minutes walk away from the bright lights and bars of Sanlitun, opened just after the Olympics and is a stylish and extremely well-priced Beijing bolthole.
Tucked behind the city's best known gay club, Destination, but not within earshot of the disco beats, the exterior looks best at night when the façade is lit up with an array of coloured lights. The reception area is a shade too moodily lit for it's own good, but persevere as the actual rooms are Beijing's biggest bargains – sleek and sexy is the theme du jour.
Happily, some of the best rooms are actually the cheapest – the 110 bedrooms are divvied up as good, great, greater or greatest, and the good rooms (from 1088RMB) have glamorous velvet drapes, darkly coloured 60s retro chic furniture and bathrooms complete with rainforest showers and L'Occitane toiletries.
In fact, everything about Hotel G combines to encourage you to stay in and skip the sights: from the complimentary entertainment options (iPod docks, DVD players, Nintendo Wii, free WiFi) to the two in-house restaurants, Beijing's best burger joint 25 Degrees (sister restaurant to the famed Hollywood version) and funky fine dining Japanese eatery Morio.
The staff speak great English and will arm you with Chinese addresses and maps should, for some reason, you happen to wish to venture outside.
Hotel G Beijing: 7 Gongtixilu, Chao yang District, Beijing, China; Phone: +86 (0)10 65523600; Fax: +86 (0)10 65523606; www.hotel-g.com.
Lost & Found: Unique Design Boutique in Beijing
Posted by Emma Torry on January 22, 2009 at 11:40 AM
Tucked down an historic tree-lined hutong alley, walking distance from the Lama Temple, design boutique Lost & Found is the answer to the age-old question for tourists to Beijing: just where do you get stylish souvenirs in the land of cheap knockoff t-shirts and Chairman Mao watches?
Paul Gelinas – an American theatre set designer and former art director for NBC's Olympic coverage – and his Chinese partner Xiao Miao salvage objects from the past, whether they're chipped enamel street signs from a long-demolished hutong, a barbershop chair or a 1950s Shanghai fan and lovingly remove the dirt before offering them on sale in their treasure trove of a store.
Look out for the 50s style storage cabinet from the old Beijing library complete with handwritten library cards still in the drawers – a steal for 4000 RMB. Alongside the reclaimed knickknacks, there are new items for sale too, including brightly coloured, hand stencilled flasks from Beijing's oldest thermos factory (58RMB), handmade slippers, and an exclusive range of men's and women's clothes – think linen jackets with a subtle traditional Chinese twist – all made locally and very reasonably priced. There's also a full range of the covetable Moleskine notebooks, including the Beijing editon – perfect for writing down the details of this fascinating treasure trove of a store.
Lost & Found, 42 Guozijian, Chaoyang district, Beijing. Tel: +86-10/6401-1855; Web: lost-and-found.cn.
All Images Copyright Lost & Found 2008.
By Stephan Larose for ChinaTravel.net
A self-guided tour of Beijing's new architectural marvels, from the Bird's Nest to the Egg to the Cube to the Wingless Dragon and beyond....
If you've been paying any attention to China at all in the past year, you've no doubt caught the hype on the Discovery Channel's Extreme Engineering or in countless newspaper and magazine articles. Beijing—long famed for ancient classics of Chinese architecture, from the Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven to the Great Wall — has been boldly remaking itself with one futuristic architectural statement building after another, inviting the world's most innovative starchitects to make their marks.
If you're in Beijing for the Olympics or just for a visit, you'll want to check out the city's new cast of starchitect-designed buildings, from the Egg to the Bird's Nest and beyond. But there's no need to line up a tour guide—here at ChinaTravel.net, we've got you covered with a quick outline for an independent self-guided tour of Beijing's newest architectural marvels. All you'll need is a pair of walking shoes, a bottle of water, change for the subway and, of course, your camera!
Norman Foster's Wingless Dragon, Beijing's Terminal 3
That's right, you've just gotten off the plane and already you're there! Another building in a long line of made-in-China world's __est structures, this one, a glass and steel dragon of unprecedented size, is touted as the largest and most advanced airport building in the world.
Jaw-droppingly vast in scale, Terminal 3's most impressive fact may be the speed with which this monster was put up. Bigger than all of London's Heathrow terminals combined (and perhaps 1,000 times as efficient and 500 times less obnoxious), Beijing's Terminal 3 went up in less time than it took just to conduct Heathrow Terminal Five's planning inquiry, making it a tribute to central planning and to the steely determination of the 50,000 workers responsible for finishing it in time to welcome hordes of Olympics tourists.
Terminal 3's 3.25 km of feng-shui-friendly red and gold concourses perfectly match the dominant colours of Beijing's prize attractions, the Summer Palace and the Forbidden City—a respectful gesture to China's past and traditions. Looking forward, by 2020 the terminal is expected to process over 50 million passengers a year. Think that's enough to handle China's growing share of air traffic? Think again—there are plans to build a staggering 96 more airports throughout the country, though it's a safe bet that none will rival the jewel of Beijing Capital's crown.
After taking a look around, hop onto the newly opened Airport Express subway and take it to the first stop: Sanyuanqiao Station (this is assuming you don't need to hit the hotel and sleep off a transcontinental flight—if you're into contemporary architecture, we recommend checking out one of the following new hotels: the Kempinski's Commune by the Great Wall or the Hotel Kapok).
Disembark and transfer to Line 10, heading to Bagou Station. Keep your eyes peeled—you'll want to get off at Beitucheng Station, which exits onto the opening of the massive Olympic Green and the site of your next superstar buildings, and perhaps the most recognizable of them all.
The Bird's Nest (Niaochao) and Watercube (Shuilifang)
The Olympic Greens, Beijing's newest urban parkland, are great for walking and sightseeing — they're full of Olympic-themed sculpture, art and fun rest spots. To get to the Bird's Nest, walk north on Beichen Lu, and soon you'll see it on your right with the Watercube on your left.
The Bird's Nest — officially known as Beijing National Stadium — is easily the most iconic of Beijing's Olympic structures. It's hosting all Olympic track and field events and Beijing football matches (Shanghai Stadium will also see some football action), all to be played before crowds of 100,000. If you're among them, you'll be one of the privileged few to appreciate Herzog and deMeuron's architectural masterpiece up close.
Monstrous steel elements weighing up to 350 tons a piece have been intertwined in a way that actually makes this gargantuan structure look delicate. The building has received both praise and criticism for its unconventional and potentially risky design — over 70% of the building's weight hangs over the audience's head.
Critics notwithstanding, there's no doubt the Bird's Nest represents a massive accomplishment for the Chinese. As an architectural marvel, an unmistakable landmark and an iconic Olympic image, it will undoubtedly be a source of pride for years to come.
The Watercube, although less grandiose in scale, almost manages to upstage its neighbour. A childlike simplicity and enchanting bubble motif mask an incredibly sophisticated design. The builders, a consortium of Chinese and Australian firms, employed a quasi-magical material called ETFE, a species of teflon, to give the cube its bubblicious glam quotient.
Designed to react to changing light conditions, it's the material responsible for the Water Cube's stunning visual effects, which are best viewed at night. The walls, which capture up to 90% of ambient and solar heat, slowly shift through a range of colours. It's almost enough to make you forget that the action is inside, not outside the building.
After you're done taking in these two Olympic icons, hop on to the subway and head back down to Beitucheng Station, where you'll transfer back to Line 10, this time heading in the opposite direction, towards Jinsong Station. Exit at Jintaixizhao Station. When you exit, make your way north along the East Third Ring North Road, and you'll see building four of your tour almost immediately.
Rem Koolhass's Twisted Masterpiece: The CCTV National HQ
The new CCTV headquarters is undoubtedly the world's most unconventional high rise, and, like the Bird's Nest and Wingless Dragon, it's already earned itself a few amusing nicknames, including the dakucha or the "big pants" and the less flattering, but more literally accurate, waiqu dalou (歪曲大楼) or "twisted building," with a heavy implication of "twisted news," though we honestly can't imagine why the home of China's state television media would warrant such a sour sobriquet.
Sure, there's lots of controversy surrounding this gravity-defying behemoth, but one thing is certain: this building cements Beijing's reputation as a global centre for experimental architectural design. The alarming angles and bending bridge section may seem chancy for earthquake-prone Beijing, but the design incorporates a massive encapsulating grid of diagonal beams that thicken around stress points to minimize the risk.
For the less sceptical, the building's eyebrow-raising design represents a consciousness shift away from the rigid mindsets of careful control of social order towards something more improvisational and open minded. Check it out: you be the judge (note , however, that any change in mindset hasn't extended to the interior of this fabulous building, which remains closed to any but CCTV employees and special guests).
After snapping a few pics you'll want to hop back on the metro and head south (same direction as before) and transfer to Line 1 at Guomao Station. Head west towards Pinguoyuan and get off at Tian'anmen West. This is the last stop on your tour, right in Beijing's cultural heart, near Tian'anmen Square and the Forbidden City. So once you're done admiring the new National Centre for the Performing Arts, you'll be able to join the tourist throngs wandering Beijing's most famed ancient landmarks.
Paul Andrew's Egg
Many visitors will probably find this to be Beijing's prettiest new structure, with its smooth graceful lines and curves. Be that as it may, "the Egg" seems to be the building that's gotten the most flack from Beijingers. They've even called it huai dan, the "Rotten Egg," for disrupting Beijing's feng shui.
The architects mindfully incorporated the circle-and-square / heaven-and-earth theme present in so many pinnacles of Chinese culture, like the Summer Palace, but, if many locals are to be believed, they flubbed it. The Egg's square half thoroughly disrupts the concentric circles weaving out from the Forbidden City, and unfortunately, that's the motif around which all of Beijing was originally designed. People say it's an impostor and an alien monstrosity. And there is indeed a drastic contrast between this über-modern structure and that epitome of tradition sitting next door, the Forbidden City.
Still, despite all the local disparagement, many visitors are certain to fall in love with Paul Andrew's Egg. The sky is mirrored its semi-transparent, golden-netted glass walls, allowing onlookers outside to enjoy the play of colours as the lights of dawn and dusk interact with the building's massive titanium and glass shell
Now you're done with your tour of Beijing's 21st century icons, and, if you start early enough, you'll have time left to explore the city's older side, from Tian'anmen Square to the Forbidden City and Beihai Park.
Enjoy!
All images © ChinaTravel.net
China made easy
Posted by Emma Torry on August 18, 2008 at 05:31 PM
Travel + Leisure magazine has made life easy for visitors to China with their tips and tools to help travellers a successful trip to the middle kingdom.
In their words, "China can seem as impenetrable as it is imposing. Consider the numbers: it's the world's most populous nation (1.3 billion), where more than 100 cities have populations over a million. Fifty-six ethnic groups are spread across 22 wildly distinct provinces and five autonomous regions, in a landmass slightly larger than the U.S. Its history seems limitless and its traditions just as deep. But here and now, change is the only real constant—and it is accelerating at a dizzying pace. (One thousand new cars hit the streets of Beijing every day.)"
No wonder so many newcomers to China find the country so intimidating.
Itinerary wise, T+L recommends the following highlights:
Beijing: 2–3 days
China’s political, historical, and cultural capital demands at least three days—for the familiar landmarks of Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, and also for Beijing’s 21st-century architecture, such as the “Bird’s Nest” Olympic National Stadium by Herzog & de Meuron and the glass-and-titanium dome that is the National Grand Theater. China’s contemporary art scene finds its nexus in the galleries and cafés of the Dashanzi Art District, home to the new Ullens Center for Contemporary Art. Beijing’s atmospheric hutong, or traditional alleyways, are fast disappearing; explore the bustling ones off Nanluoguxiang, near the 13th-century Drum and Bell towers. Then check out the Legation Quarter, a high-end restaurant, entertainment, and cultural development set within the former American Embassy compound. And save a morning to stroll the manicured, 660-acre grounds of the Temple of Heaven, site of the circular Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, the 15th-century apogee of Chinese ritual architecture.
The Great Wall
Numerous stretches of the Great Wall are easily accessible from Beijing (ask your hotel to arrange a car or bus tour). But avoid the tourist trap of Badaling and head to the slightly less trammeled Mutianyu section, a 90-minute drive northeast of the Forbidden City. Early morning is best; try Asia 1 on 1 (asia1on1.com) for day trips.
Shanghai: 2–3 days
First stop: the riverfront promenade known as the Bund, with its Art Deco, Neoclassical, and Beaux-Arts façades, bars and shops, and views of the space-age towers of Pudong. In People’s Park you’ll find the Shanghai Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art. Weekdays are the best time to wander among the pine trees and ponds of the 16th-century Yuyuan Gardens. Xintiandi was the birthplace of the Chinese Communist Party; now this restored two-block district is defined by upscale shops and restaurants. The leafy, rustic French Concession is the favored destination for cutting-edge fashion and designs for the home. Shanghai’s latest secret? Lane 248, a gritty, narrow street now inhabited by artsy cafés and intimate boutiques, hidden behind Taikang Road.
Guilin: 2 days
(Two hours by air from Shanghai.) With its sheer limestone peaks jutting up from the Li River, Guilin is straight out of a traditional Chinese landscape painting, and remains one of China’s most breathtaking sights. Take in the view from Solitary Beauty Peak and marvel at the formations of the Reed Flute Cave. Spring and fall are best; avoid the heat of July and the crowds of the holiday seasons.
Xi’an: 2 days
(Two hours by air from Beijing.) China’s ancestral capital is renowned for its “terra-cotta army,” created during the Qin dynasty (221–207 B.C.): thousands of life-size clay warriors stand in formation as part of the funerary complex of China’s first emperor, with much more yet to be excavated. You’ll need at least two days here to take in the warriors, see the Shang dynasty bronze relics at the Shaanxi History Museum, walk along the Old City walls, and visit the Da Mai market.
Datong: 2 days
(One hour by air or six hours by scenic train ride from Beijing.) Majestic Qing dynasty frescoes are the standout in the celebrated temple district. Nearby excursions include the awesome Buddhist sculptures in the Yungang Grottoes and the Hanging Temple of Mount Hengshan, which clings precipitously to the side of a cliff. Not far away are some especially beautiful eroded mud-brick ruins of the Great Wall.
The article also includes must-read taxi tips, hotel recommendations, shopping advice and strategies, must-eat food, and six great new books on China. Happy days.












