A DIY Tour of Beijing's New Architectural Stars

Posted by Emma Torry on August 21, 2008 at 04:17 PM

By Stephan Larose for ChinaTravel.net

A self-guided tour of Beijing's new architectural marvels, from the Bird's Nest to the Egg to the Cube to the Wingless Dragon and beyond....

If you've been paying any attention to China at all in the past year, you've no doubt caught the hype on the Discovery Channel's Extreme Engineering or in countless newspaper and magazine articles. Beijing—long famed for ancient classics of Chinese architecture, from the Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven to the Great Wall — has been boldly remaking itself with one futuristic architectural statement building after another, inviting the world's most innovative starchitects to make their marks.

If you're in Beijing for the Olympics or just for a visit, you'll want to check out the city's new cast of starchitect-designed buildings, from the Egg to the Bird's Nest and beyond. But there's no need to line up a tour guide—here at ChinaTravel.net, we've got you covered with a quick outline for an independent self-guided tour of Beijing's newest architectural marvels. All you'll need is a pair of walking shoes, a bottle of water, change for the subway and, of course, your camera!

Norman Foster's Wingless Dragon, Beijing's Terminal 3

That's right, you've just gotten off the plane and already you're there! Another building in a long line of made-in-China world's __est structures, this one, a glass and steel dragon of unprecedented size, is touted as the largest and most advanced airport building in the world.

Jaw-droppingly vast in scale, Terminal 3's most impressive fact may be the speed with which this monster was put up. Bigger than all of London's Heathrow terminals combined (and perhaps 1,000 times as efficient and 500 times less obnoxious), Beijing's Terminal 3 went up in less time than it took just to conduct Heathrow Terminal Five's planning inquiry, making it a tribute to central planning and to the steely determination of the 50,000 workers responsible for finishing it in time to welcome hordes of Olympics tourists.

Terminal 3's 3.25 km of feng-shui-friendly red and gold concourses perfectly match the dominant colours of Beijing's prize attractions, the Summer Palace and the Forbidden City—a respectful gesture to China's past and traditions. Looking forward, by 2020 the terminal is expected to process over 50 million passengers a year. Think that's enough to handle China's growing share of air traffic? Think again—there are plans to build a staggering 96 more airports throughout the country, though it's a safe bet that none will rival the jewel of Beijing Capital's crown.

After taking a look around, hop onto the newly opened Airport Express subway and take it to the first stop: Sanyuanqiao Station (this is assuming you don't need to hit the hotel and sleep off a transcontinental flight—if you're into contemporary architecture, we recommend checking out one of the following new hotels: the Kempinski's Commune by the Great Wall or the Hotel Kapok).

Disembark and transfer to Line 10, heading to Bagou Station. Keep your eyes peeled—you'll want to get off at Beitucheng Station, which exits onto the opening of the massive Olympic Green and the site of your next superstar buildings, and perhaps the most recognizable of them all.

The Bird's Nest (Niaochao) and Watercube (Shuilifang)

The Olympic Greens, Beijing's newest urban parkland, are great for walking and sightseeing — they're full of Olympic-themed sculpture, art and fun rest spots. To get to the Bird's Nest, walk north on Beichen Lu, and soon you'll see it on your right with the Watercube on your left.

The Bird's Nest — officially known as Beijing National Stadium — is easily the most iconic of Beijing's Olympic structures. It's hosting all Olympic track and field events and Beijing football matches (Shanghai Stadium will also see some football action), all to be played before crowds of 100,000. If you're among them, you'll be one of the privileged few to appreciate Herzog and deMeuron's architectural masterpiece up close.

Monstrous steel elements weighing up to 350 tons a piece have been intertwined in a way that actually makes this gargantuan structure look delicate. The building has received both praise and criticism for its unconventional and potentially risky design — over 70% of the building's weight hangs over the audience's head.

Critics notwithstanding, there's no doubt the Bird's Nest represents a massive accomplishment for the Chinese. As an architectural marvel, an unmistakable landmark and an iconic Olympic image, it will undoubtedly be a source of pride for years to come.

The Watercube, although less grandiose in scale, almost manages to upstage its neighbour. A childlike simplicity and enchanting bubble motif mask an incredibly sophisticated design. The builders, a consortium of Chinese and Australian firms, employed a quasi-magical material called ETFE, a species of teflon, to give the cube its bubblicious glam quotient.

Designed to react to changing light conditions, it's the material responsible for the Water Cube's stunning visual effects, which are best viewed at night. The walls, which capture up to 90% of ambient and solar heat, slowly shift through a range of colours. It's almost enough to make you forget that the action is inside, not outside the building.

After you're done taking in these two Olympic icons, hop on to the subway and head back down to Beitucheng Station, where you'll transfer back to Line 10, this time heading in the opposite direction, towards Jinsong Station. Exit at Jintaixizhao Station. When you exit, make your way north along the East Third Ring North Road, and you'll see building four of your tour almost immediately.

Rem Koolhass's Twisted Masterpiece: The CCTV National HQ

The new CCTV headquarters is undoubtedly the world's most unconventional high rise, and, like the Bird's Nest and Wingless Dragon, it's already earned itself a few amusing nicknames, including the dakucha or the "big pants" and the less flattering, but more literally accurate, waiqu dalou (歪曲大楼) or "twisted building," with a heavy implication of "twisted news," though we honestly can't imagine why the home of China's state television media would warrant such a sour sobriquet.

Sure, there's lots of controversy surrounding this gravity-defying behemoth, but one thing is certain: this building cements Beijing's reputation as a global centre for experimental architectural design. The alarming angles and bending bridge section may seem chancy for earthquake-prone Beijing, but the design incorporates a massive encapsulating grid of diagonal beams that thicken around stress points to minimize the risk.

For the less sceptical, the building's eyebrow-raising design represents a consciousness shift away from the rigid mindsets of careful control of social order towards something more improvisational and open minded. Check it out: you be the judge (note , however, that any change in mindset hasn't extended to the interior of this fabulous building, which remains closed to any but CCTV employees and special guests).

After snapping a few pics you'll want to hop back on the metro and head south (same direction as before) and transfer to Line 1 at Guomao Station. Head west towards Pinguoyuan and get off at Tian'anmen West. This is the last stop on your tour, right in Beijing's cultural heart, near Tian'anmen Square and the Forbidden City. So once you're done admiring the new National Centre for the Performing Arts, you'll be able to join the tourist throngs wandering Beijing's most famed ancient landmarks.

Paul Andrew's Egg

Many visitors will probably find this to be Beijing's prettiest new structure, with its smooth graceful lines and curves. Be that as it may, "the Egg" seems to be the building that's gotten the most flack from Beijingers. They've even called it huai dan, the "Rotten Egg," for disrupting Beijing's feng shui.

The architects mindfully incorporated the circle-and-square / heaven-and-earth theme present in so many pinnacles of Chinese culture, like the Summer Palace, but, if many locals are to be believed, they flubbed it. The Egg's square half thoroughly disrupts the concentric circles weaving out from the Forbidden City, and unfortunately, that's the motif around which all of Beijing was originally designed. People say it's an impostor and an alien monstrosity. And there is indeed a drastic contrast between this über-modern structure and that epitome of tradition sitting next door, the Forbidden City.

Still, despite all the local disparagement, many visitors are certain to fall in love with Paul Andrew's Egg. The sky is mirrored its semi-transparent, golden-netted glass walls, allowing onlookers outside to enjoy the play of colours as the lights of dawn and dusk interact with the building's massive titanium and glass shell

Now you're done with your tour of Beijing's 21st century icons, and, if you start early enough, you'll have time left to explore the city's older side, from Tian'anmen Square to the Forbidden City and Beihai Park.

Enjoy!

All images © ChinaTravel.net

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Green China Travel Tips (Part I)

Posted by Emma Torry on July 17, 2008 at 04:24 PM

By David Perry for ChinaTravel.net

What's hot in world travel? Two things top the list: China and anything deemed "green," from hardcore back-country ecotourism adventures to environmentally conscious luxury resort stays.

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But mention "China" and "green" in the same breath, and most travelers are likely to look at you like you've been huffing diesel fumes. After all, the media is full of stories about the huge environmental costs of China's breakneck economic growth. Most Westerners are more likely to think of dams, smog and booming megacities than pristine mountain streams, lush jungles and indigenous cultures living in balance with nature. And for many recently affluent Chinese travelers, the emphasis remains on mass tourism with a façade of luxury—if it's not conspicuous, shiny and crowded, it often seems it's not worth doing.

alt text But that's all changing, like everything in the world's most dynamic country. And if China has anything in abundance, it's surprises. For many newcomers to China travel, the biggest surprise might be the growth of green travel in the Middle Kingdom.

For some, "green travel" may mean trekking in remote regions of Yunnan, Sichuan and Tibet; others may prefer to pay a premium to stay in small eco-lodges or boutique hotels; still others may prefer the familiarity and comfort of conventional hotels but with an environmentally aware twist and easy access to nature reserves and parks. Regardless, the goal is a shared one: to protect and preserve the environment while enjoying the best it has to offer.

This doesn't just mean saving rare species, either. In this age of global warming and rapid resource depletion, it means understanding how one person can affect the environment and everything in it, from the local to the global level—and accepting responsibility for helping to make things better.

With all that in mind, we're debuting a series of green China features with a few tips for earth-friendly travel in China. In the near future, we'll spotlight regions, destinations, resorts and hotels that get high marks for environmental friendliness. We'll continue to do features on the subject, ranging from roughing it to luxury ecotourism, and we invite you to join the ongoing conversation in ChinaTravel.net's new China Travel Environment and Ecology Forum. If you have your own recommendations, stories or photos, let us know!

Green Travel in China

Carbon-conscious conveyance

In this age of global warming, travelers are becoming increasingly aware of their "carbon footprint," which is shorthand for the amount of CO2 and other greenhouse gasses emitted by burning fossil fuels that can be calculated as being your individual share.

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One popular option is carbon offsetting. An easy-to-use carbon calculator can help you calculate the climate impact of your flights and other travel activities; you can then contribute to an organization dedicated to various emissions-reducing actions, from protecting rain forests and wetlands to planting new trees to developing new low-emissions technologies.

You can also calculate carbon offsets for any bus, car or train travel you do. Of course, students and budget travelers may not have the extra money to do so. Regardless, you can choose lower emitting options over higher ones—take a bus or train instead of splurging on a private car; walk or ride a bike instead of hopping in cab; plan your trip carefully in advance to minimize the chance of often costly (and energy-gobbling) last-minute travel changes. As a bonus, you get a much more up-close-and-personal look at China by traveling in slower and more old-fashioned ways, whether in big city Beijing or the laid-back countryside around Guilin or one of Yunnan's top destinations.

In addition to carbon offsets, a number of travel businesses are experiencing something of a green awakening, making it easier for concerned consumers to act. For example, Chinese online travel giant Ctrip.com has recently made it possible to use accumulated travel points to help Shanghai Roots & Shoots plant more trees or to support environmental education in China by purchasing a reusable bag from GECKO.

Green hotels in China

If you're in a big city, the idea of a "green hotel" might seem counterintuitive, but even in the heart of Shanghai or sprawling outskirts of Shenzhen, you'll find accommodations that have gone green to one degree or another. International chains like Novotel, which recently teamed up with environmental certification organization Green Globe, are upgrading their facilities to save energy and reduce waste while maintaining high levels of quality and service, and for many first-time travelers to China, brand familiarity can be important. Novotel Peace Beijing and Novotel Atlantis Shanghai are good bets both for comfort and for you conscience. If an international chain isn't your thing, the green trend meets the boutique hotel in hotels like China's "first carbon-neutral hotel," URBN Hotels (despite the plural, they only have one at present though more are planned across China). In addition to centrally located urban hotels, a number of green alternatives

Sure, purists may raise an eyebrow at the mention of "ecotourism" in connection with developments like the Interlaken Shenzhen, designed to evoke an alpine Swiss village on the outskirts of the booming city in a semi-tropical park-like development, or the gee-whiz futuristic design of a development like the "sustainable" five-star Songjiang Hotel outside of Shanghai (see illustration, slated to open in May 2009). But when it comes to the nurturing of an environmental consciousness in development-happy China, the thought does indeed count for quite a bit: awareness is the first step toward action, and an eco-friendly hotel, even if less crunchy granola (or stinky tofu, for that matter) than status-conscious arugula and latte, raises awareness in both consumers and businesses.

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There are also an increasing number of green getaways suitable for a long weekend escape from China's urban centers. If you've had enough of Shanghai, try Naked Retreats, which manages a selection of properties in the popular Moganshan area. Guangzhou boasts the Crosswaters Ecolodge and Spa in the bamboo forests of Nankunshan to the west of the city. The Beijing region offers unique options like the Beijing Crab Island Green Ecological Resort, which grows its own organic produce and seeks a high degree of sustainability, including the "coexistence of crops and crabs" as well as more mundane eco-goals like use of renewable energy and water reclamation.

Then there's Chengdu with its proximity to the forests and mountains that are home to China's poster animal for ecotourism, the giant panda. Because of the recent Sichuan earthquake, the situation in and around Chengdu will likely remain uncertain for several months—look for Sichuan updates on this site as well as more information on other popular ecotourism destinations throughout China, especially in the south and west, where remote and rugged lands have remained relatively untouched by development.

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