Guest post by Escapio.com

Paradores are stunning luxury hotels that have been designed to celebrate the rich diversity of Spanish culture. They are located in key tourist areas and offer truly unique opportunities for cultural immersion in the historic architecture of beautiful Spain.

1) Parador de Granada, Granada
Granada is a beautiful region that has a number of lovely churches and historic buildings. The main attraction is the stunning Alhambra castle, which is widely considered one of the great ancient architectural marvels of the world. The Alhambra is the former residence of influential Arabic Sultans and offers all the opulence and glamour you would expect from such a grand ruling dynasty. The Parador de Granada offers the perfect base to explore the culture of this region and is located in a beautiful 15th century Franciscan convent inside the grounds of the Alhambra Palace.

2) Parador de Oropesa, Toledo
Toledo is a large province and is famous for its lovely windmills and beautiful countryside. The regional capital (also called Toledo) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has an impressive collection of fine historic buildings that reflect the rich Christian, Muslim and Jewish cultural history. The province also offers a stunning 14th palace, which is the location of the beautiful Parador de Oropesa. This is a great place to stay if you want to explore the surrounding areas of natural and cultural richness.

3) Parador de Leon, Castile-Leon
Castile-Leon is one of Spain's most lovely provinces and one of the cultural centres of the country. Castile-Leon has a number of attractions including stunning areas of outstanding natural beauty and many of ancient palaces, castles, cathedrals and monasteries. The Parador de Leon offers unique stays in a beautifully renovated 16th century former monastery. This is a peaceful and secluded site from which you can explore the region by car, on foot or by bicycle.

4) Parador de Vielha, Comarqa Vall d'Aran
The Comarqa Vall d'Aran is a beautiful area of the Spanish Pyrenees with breathtaking mountain scenery. If you enjoy outdoor activities then this is a wonderful location all year round with winter sports, hiking, mountaineering and more. The Parador de Vielha is a stunning modern hotel that offers easy access to this lovely part of Spain. It is also close to one of the area's most impressive winter sports destinations, Baqueira-Beret.

5) Parador de Puebla de Sanabria, Lake Sanabria
Lake Sanabria is an area of outstanding natural beauty near the Portuguese border. The Parador de Puebla de Sanabria is a stylish modern building with a cool, minimalist charm, which is the perfect place to wake up before a day exploring the landscape and villages of the local area.

For more information on Paradores, rates, and bookings, please visit escapio.com.

A recent trip to the Spanish town of Peñíscola, on the Costa del Azahar, coincided perfectly with the annual fiestas. This means two weeks of non-stop partying in Peñíscola, plus traditional fun and games.

One of the events we saw was the annual bull running. No picadors or matadors here, just the townspeople out for a bit of bull baiting and a chance to show off how brave they are.

First off, the Daddy Bull gets wheeled out. He's an old timer who goes into the ring at the end of each bull's session to guide them back into their "paddock".

The first bulls to go in are just babies still, which means that the women of the town have a go at running with them. One unsuspecting Granny got mown over by an irate bullock, but apart from that incident nothing major happened.

Then the action hotted up and the women had to leave the ring. Only men and their rather spectacular Euro-style mullets allowed back in.

One by one the bigger, angrier bulls were then unleashed and the men got to show off how nimble and courageous they are by leaping off wooden platforms and into the ring.

It was a lot of fun, and a great taste of Spanish life. If you have a chance to go to any Spanish fiestas you should!

In Saturday's How to Spend It magazine award winning writer, Margaret Atwood, shares the ingredients for her perfect weekend in Toronto, Canada.

According to Atwood, winter visitors to Toronto should check out snow-tubing in Horseshoe Valley, winter birding, and forest walks in places such as Sir Winston Churchill Park and Leslie Hill Split.

For lunch in Toronto you should check out Live (264 Dupont St), which does great vegetarian food; Cantine (13 Avenue Rd), for a superlative bowl of soup; or Le Sélect (432 Wellington St West), a good weekend lunch spot serving up French bistro food (pictured below).

If you want some good dinner options you should look into Take Sushi (22 Front St West), for good Japanese and 93 Harbord (93 Harbord St) for Middle Eastern cuisine - both come highly recommended by Atwood.

L'Espresso Bar Mercurio (321 Bloor St West) is a favourite coffee place, right across the street from Toronto's Shoe Museum.

If you're up for a swanky night out in Toronto, Atwood suggests the new opera house (735 Queen St East), "the auditorium rests like an egg inside the building on huge, rubber elephant legs. The sound is excellent."

• Live: 264 Dupont St (North East corner of Dupont and Spadina), Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5R 1V7; Tel: +1 416 515 2002; Web: www.livefoodbar.com.
  
• Cantine: 13 Avenue Rd, Toronto, Ontario M5R 2H6; Tel: +1 416 923 4822; Web: www.cantine.ca.
  
• Le Sélect: 432 Wellington Street West, Toronto M5V 1E3; Tel: +1 416 596 6405; Web: www.leselect.com.
  
• Take Sushi: 22 Front Street West, Toronto, ON M5J 1C4, Canada; Tel: +1 416 862 1891; Web: www.takesushi.ca.
  
• 93 Harbord: 93 Harbord Street, Toronto, Ontario, M5S 1G4; Tel: +1 416 922 5914; Web: www.93harbord.com.
  
• L'Espresso Bar Mercurio: 321 Bloor Street West, Toronto, ON, M5S 1S5 (southeast corner of Bloor & St. George); Tel: +1 416 585 2233; Web: www.lespressobarmercurio.com.
  
• The Opera House, Toronto: 735 Queen Street East, Toronto, ON M4M 1H1, Canada; Tel: +1 416 466 0313; Web: www.theoperahousetoronto.com.

To read the full article visit www.howtospendit.com.

Photo Credits: Snow tubing by DrewOtt; Le Sélect via www.leselect.com.

By Turner Wright

If you're planning a trip through the States read this guide to American accents before you head off on your travels. It's an amusing, astute look at the weird and wonderful differences in dialect and pronunciation across the USA.

I'm a Texan first, then an American, then a citizen of the world. Without fail, every time I encounter someone on the road who has an inkling of knowledge of American accents, I hear:

"So you're from Texas? You don't really have an accent, do you?"

...a fact for which I praise my upbringing each and every day. Still, that doesn't stop me from occasionally throwing on a twang, and spitting out:

"Yessum, I surely do. Yee-haw! Giddy-up there! Have ya'll seen my horse?"

I guarantee I'm not the only city-raised respectable Southerner who's felt compelled to feign, wishing for a moment we had more evidence of our heritage... and perhaps feeling a little embarrassed we have to make the effort. After all, every state is the proud owner of its own distinctive twang, its essence representing the character of the state's history and its people.

TEXAS

Screw Alaska. We're the biggest of the lower 48, so we deserve to be first. The Lone Star State. The Texas accent can be mistaken for the southern drawl of neighboring states, but it tends to be a little more focused; when Michael Caine was studying to speak like a Texan in the movie Secondhand Lions, he probably got the best explanation I've ever heard:

'...[British] English is like all-soldiers-standing-to-attention.' He said, 'In Texan, everybody leans on each other, goes like that. The words just lean on each other and they go through jus' like that. It's all slow and you don't have to worry about nothin'.'
I said, 'Texans do talk slow, don't they John?'
He said, 'They sure do, Michael.'
I said, 'Why's that?'
He said, 'Well, I reckon it's 'cause we're all very big and carry a lot of guns - people just listen.'

Source: YouTube

THE SOUTH
Like Texan (or I guess the rest would say "Texas is like us"), the southern accent is drawn out, tends to drop the end of words, and is a close relative of the English accent. I hesitate to lump the masses together, as each state is quite distinct, but for the most part Florida, Alabama, Georgia, Mississippi, Louisiana, Kentucky, Tennessee, South Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia (the Virginias are pretty unique in themselves), North Carolina, and Arkansas natives bear the burden of this form of speech.

In the south...

• "Liar" rhymes with "fire"
• Be on the lookout for expressions that would make Shakespeare turn in his grave: "You're dumber'n a sack'a potatoes."
• "Ya'll" (= you all) is a dead giveaway
• "Get 'er done!" will always produce a reaction (thanks to Larry the Cable Guy)

BOSTON
Boston and indeed most of eastern Massachusetts has a wicked retarded accent, best used for cheering for the Red Sox, doing kegstands, and grabbing something sweet from the packie (liquor store). In any case, try changing all the short "a"'s to "ee"'s (e.g. Mary = Meery); "o"'s to soft "a"'s (e.g. Boston = Baston) and "r"'s at the end or in the middle of words to "h"'s (Nomar Garciaparra = Nomah).

The Wicked Good Guide to Boston English

MIDWESTERN
The midwestern accent is probably the most neutral of accents in all forms of English. Head over to Nebraska, Kansas, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, and Pennsylvania and enjoy the flat-sounding voices. I believe this is why there are so many telemarketing firms and phone operators in Nebraska; companies want to be understood. Without any real inflection or flare, midwestern speakers may as well be the hardest to pin down by language enthusiasts.

NEW YORK
Ahh... yes. Your first thought is probably the deep NY accents you hear Italians using in mob movies; in fact, whenever I try to feign this one, I start with: "Hey Tony, go whack this guy, will ya?"

Given the geographically small area of New York City, it's amazing we find such varieties of speech. From all five Boroughs - Queens, Staten Island, Manhattan, Brooklyn, Bronx - to Long Island and northern New Jersey, many visitors to the big apple (I don't care if they officially changed the name) claim to be able to hear differences between these regions. In fact, the classic New York accent is the result of European immigrants, and now lies mostly in the mouths of the working class; talk to a cabbie from JFK airport into Manhattan and you'll see what I mean.

The Story of the New York Accent.

THE DAKOTAS
Pop the movie Fargo into your DVD player and discover... well, an exaggerated version of a Minnesota accent. For North and South Dakota, there are strong Scandinavian and German roots influencing their inflections, with a result not far off from the neutral dialects of the midwestern states. Double "o" sounds are indistinguishable from their use in "root" (i.e. book = b-oo-uk), and soft "a"'s are replaced by soft "o"'s (father = f-oh-ther). In North Dakota, the Canadian influence is also unmistakable.

CALIFORNIA

A lot of the latest American slang spreads from New York City and Los Angeles, tending to produce a speech faster and much harder to pin down. In general, the "A"'s are flatter, the "R"'s are hard, and the accent is more liked a toned down version of the 1980s Valley Girl. In all likelihood, you'd be more likely to recognize someone as Californian based on their cultural expressions and knowledge of Spanish rather than any specific accent.

Photo Credits: Texas by atmtx; Boston by JMaz Photo; New York by diebmx; California by casch52 gone for a short time.

Today marks the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. To celebrate, Berlin is hosting an open-air concert and party tonight.

Over 1,000 colourful 8ft dominoes, along the former route of the wall between Pariser Platz and the Brandenburg Gate, will be knocked over to mark this important anniversary, and to raise awareness of walls around the world that continue to exist.

The last domino will trigger a firework frenzy over the Brandenburg Gate.

Dignitaries expected to attend Berlin's "Festival of Freedom" include U.S Secretary of State Hillary Clinton, French President Nicolas Sarkozy, British Prime Minister Gordon Brown, and former Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev.

Brandenburg Gate by wit.

It might be 20 years since the Berlin wall came down, but if you check into The Ostel, Berlin's new GDR-designed hostel, you'd be forgiven for thinking time had stood still.

Full of details to delight even the most ostalgic (nostalgic for life in the former East "Ost" Germany) of visitors, The Ostel cashes in on the trend for recreating aspects of daily life and culture of the former GDR.

Housed in an original Plattenbau, a typical East German building constructed of large, prefabricated concrete slabs, The Ostel offers dorm rooms, private rooms and a GDR Holiday Apartment that can sleep up to six. Rooms cost from €9 per person per night.

We can see The Ostel's Communist kitsch vibe and its proximity's to some of the best of Berlin's nightlife making it a firm favourite in the Berlin stag / hen repertoire.

If stepping back in time is your thing make sure you take a tour of Berlin in an old Trabbi - another East Berlin icon - to add to the GDR experience. Visit www.trabi-safari.de for more information.

The Ostel
Wriezener Karree 5, 10243, Berlin, Germany; Tel: +49 30 25 76 86 60; Fax: +49 30 25 76 88 07; Email: contact@ostel.eu; Web: www.ostel.eu.

Photo Credits: The Ostel ©OSTEL GbR; Trabant by Genial23.

By Turner Wright

As one of the great adventure capitals of the world, New Zealand boasts an impressive array of activities for travellers: bungy jumping in Queenstown, skydiving in Taupo, Zorbing in Rotorua. Not to mention a full assortment of hot springs in which to ease those weary bones after a long day on the road.

To many travellers familiar with hot springs around the world, most of New Zealand's should come as a pleasant surprise, especially those located on the South Island. The main problem with the hot springs on the North Island is determining which pools are "authentic". In Rotorua, a town practically full to the brim with hot water - and smelling strongly of sulphur - nearly every motel and motor inn advertises their features: Sky TV, high speed internet, and hot pools. Catch the scam? Of course not. You would think by spending the evening in an establishment in the heart of a hot spring village you would be entitled to soak in real hot spring water (as opposed to heated tap water). Unfortunately, the sign you should have been seeking was "mineral pools", not hot pools; the terminology varies by location.

I suppose there are certain slang terms and ways of deceiving cash customers in any country... hot pools, hot springs, mineral pools... you can't go wrong with the name waiariki; the original Maori term, meaning "chiefly waters", which commonly refers to outdoor pools in the countryside, as opposed to some of the more family friendly resorts like Miranda - they may claim to have the largest hot pool in the southern hemisphere, but that doesn't change the fact it's nothing more than a glorified water park, designed to entertain kids rather than cater to those seeking to enjoy a quiet soak as the sun slowly sets.

These are the most chiefly waters I know on New Zealand's North Island.

1) Ngawha Springs, Northland

Ngawha (pronounced "nafa") is the sole source of mineral pools in Northland. Well off the beaten path and not mentioned in Lonely Planet, these waiariki pools vary in temperature and mineral content. If you feel like getting scalded or have skin as tough as the first Maori to take a soak, check out the Bull Dog bath at 45 degrees C. Want to ease into the hotter ones first? Soloman is a favourite of mine at 36 degrees, and I also enjoyed the rich milky baths on the other side of the complex to cool off. Best of all, these waters are in wooden tubs crafted from native wood, set in an area so remote it's unlikely to ever be full to the brim with tourists or families. Word of warning: don't plan to keep whatever bathing suit you choose to wear; the minerals will stain almost any material a nice off-colour puke, and leave it smelling like delicious sulphur. Hold off on showering after you visit; although the smell may not be best suited to help you pick up members of the opposite sex, the minerals will continue revitalizing your skin as long as it remains.

2) Hot Water Beaches

Being buried in hot sand is a little unnerving to many first timers; often the first question I hear is: "Can I get out from underneath if there's a problem?" No worries; you're in New Zealand, and you only have to dig a hole, not bury yourself inside it. Sand baths like these exist the world over, from Ibusuki, Japan, to Deception Island, Antarctica. When you're on the North Island, there are two such places I would recommend:

Hot Water Beach, Coromandel Peninsula
Go hire a shovel from the nearby Hot Water Beach shop and dig yourself a nice little spot of paradise on this sandy beach. It's a delicate balance determining exactly when to soak, but generally, two hours before and after the low tide is safe. Just be sure not to cool yourself off in the ocean if you're feeling particularly sweaty; this beach, along with several others in the area, has particularly dangerous rips and undertows.

Te Puia Hot Spings, Kawhia
If you're looking for a hot water beach well beyond the reaches of Auckland and most tourists' tracks, head south of the surfing city of Raglan and keep going until you hit hot black sand. The beaches of Kawhia give off a pleasant, but not overwhelming, smell of sulphur. Only this time, plan to bring a shovel from home.

3) Rotorua

Rotorua is essentially one big hot pool. You don't even have to travel outside the city limits to find some decent places to soak, but if you do feel like a short drive, the Wai Ora Spa in Tikitere (Hell's Gate) is the way to go; prepare to pay far more than you would at any other hot pool, but the hot mud treatment is worth the weight off your wallet. Closer to downtown, the Polynesian Spa is probably the classier route, with private pools and a great view of Lake Rotorua, but don't shy away from the Blue Baths, either; the main pool is little more than lukewarm even on the hottest summer day, but the adjacent baths seem to be fed directly from the spring. Next to Ngawha, the hottest I have yet experienced in a waiariki.

In my humble opinion, however, the city's main attraction is the smallest of all. As you ride the bus in from Auckland, the smell of sulphur seeps in from Kuirau Park, the site on which you should focus your photography efforts: boiling mud pools, steaming hot springs, and children playing nearby. Best of all, this park is home to something I had not expected to see outside of the island of Kyushu in Japan: foot baths. Take it from me, my friends, there is nothing sweeter in life than going for a barefoot run in this park just as the sun is beginning to rise, letting your toes freeze in the morning dew, and then taking a break in one of the few foot baths to warm yourself. "Sweet as", as the Kiwis would say.

4) Taupo Plateau

I can only offer you one bit of advice when it comes to soaking in Taupo: get out of town. The Taupo region has some of the best hot pools on both the North and South Island, but the pickings are slim in urban areas. If you're headed north-east, you must relax in Kerosene Creek's jacuzzi pool or the aptly-named 'Paradise' to the east of Lake Ohakuri. In addition, there are many natural springs on private property; it's best to call the owners ahead of time if you're planning a trip (see www.nzhotpools.co.nz for details).

If you have only a short stay in New Zealand and hot springs are your goal, focus all your efforts on Taupo and its surroundings. Want to throw some of that famous New Zealand adrenaline into the mix? Jump out of a perfectly good aeroplane before you hit the baths.

5) At the End of a Great Walk

"In the middle of the journey of my life, I found myself astray in a dark wood, where the straight road had been lost." How unfortunate Dante chose to hike into Hell rather than the Lake Waikaremoana Track, one of New Zealand's nine 'Great Walks'. He could have found a pool full of soothing water waiting for him rather than an ominous gateway.

Maungataniwha Hot Springs is in fact a little off the Lake Waikaremoana Track, but well within the boundaries of Te Urewera National Park, the largest on the North Island. The best route would probably be to stop at the Parahaki Hut overnight then make your way over to the springs: hot water rolling down a rock face. You'll probably have to dig a small pool to enjoy a soak, but won't all that effort be worth it after a "mere" seven hours' hiking? Definitely. For detailed directions, check out Sally Jackson's "Hot Springs of New Zealand" or Lonely Planet's "Tramping in New Zealand".

Photo Credits: New Zealand Hot Springs by jjay69; "Enjoying a hot bath!" by magical-world; "Rotorua, Te Whakarewarewa" by vtveen; "Taupo Hot Springs" by xoque.

One of Britain's greatest treasures is the plethora of historic houses, estates, gardens, churches and ancient ruins that run the length and breadth of cities and countryside alike.

With such a rich past Britain is teeming with places of historical significance, and it's hard to narrow down your choices of where to visit. Here we have rounded up a list of ten of the National Trust's most visited properties to give you an insight into Britain's most precious of historic gems.

Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Water Garden, North Yorkshire

Like India's Taj Mahal, the pyramids at Giza in Egypt and the Acropolis at Athens, Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Water Garden is a World Heritage Site made up of 800 hectares of spectacular ruins and stunning parks, including a medieval deer park – grazed today by 500 Red, Sika, and Fallow Deer – and the largest abbey ruins in the country. Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Water Garden was recognised by UNESCO for its 18th Century landscape, 12th Century Abbey (founded by Benedictine monks in 1132), Elizabethan Fountains Hall and Victorian St Mary's Church. Over 300,000 visitors a year come to soak up the history and culture at this important English landmark.

The estate sits in an area of outstanding natural beauty in the valley of the river Skell, 30 miles away from the city of York.

Stourhead Garden, Wiltshire

Stourhead is home to a world-famous 18th-century landscape garden, a "first-of-its-kind" Palladian mansion, parkland, woods and chalk downs. Named after the Stourton family who lived in the estate for 700 years, Stourhead was sold in 1717 to Henry Hoare. The original house was demolished and a new mansion was built in the Palladian style. Over the next 200 years the Hoare family collected art and antiques, which are exhibited still today, and built a number of temples and follies in the gardens designed to show off their education and wealth. The views over three counties from the top of King Alfred's Tower shouldn't be missed.

Polesden Lacey, Surrey

Once the honeymoon spot for King George VI and the Queen Mother, Polesden Lacey is a Regency house boasting opulent Edwardian interiors, an interesting collection of Old Masters paintings, and stunning views across the North Downs.

Polesden Lacey was last home to the Edwardian society hostess the Hon. Mrs Greville, as well as to the playwright Richard Sheridan at the end of the 18th century. Not to be missed are the beautiful walled rose garden, Polesden Lacey's extensive grounds and lawns, and the landscape walks.

Wakehurst Palace, West Sussex

If you're into botanical gardens, the Elizabethan Wakehurst Palace in West Sussex is the place to go, and there are over 477,000 visitors a year who will agree. The property is run by the famous Kew Gardens and is an important site for plant conservation and research, with more than a billion seeds collected so far for future preservation. Wakehurst Palace has the world's largest growing Christmas Tree: it is 35m tall and is lit by 1,800 energy saving lights from advent to Twelfth Night. Kenneth Branagh used Wakehurst Palace as the location for much of his 2006 film "As You Like It".

St. Michael's Mount, Cornwall

Legend, myth and history abound at St. Michael's Mount in Cornwall. A giant named Cormoran is said to have lived on the Mount; he was followed by monks, pilgrims, armies, fleets, and many more besides. In 495 a fisherman is said to have seen an apparition of the Archangel St. Michael, and four miracles are said to have occurred at St. Michael's Mount between 1262 and 1263. During the Wars of the Roses the island was under siege for six months, and then later, in 1588, it the first beacon was lit on the Mount to warn of the Spanish Armada. From 1642 to 1646, St. Michael's Mount saw bloody skirmishes between Royalists and Oliver Cromwell's New Model Army.

Quarry Bank Mill and Styal Estate, Cheshire

You can still feel the pulse of the Industrial Revolution, which changed the face of Britain, at Quarry Bank Mill and the Styal Estate in Cheshire. On a visit to the cotton mill you will experience life as a mill worker, and a tour of the Apprentice House, will shed light on the lives of the Industrial Era's child workforce.

Chartwell, Kent

Chartwell was the family home of one of Britain's most famous Prime Ministers, Sir William Churchill, who bought the property for its views over the Weald of Kent to Sussex. The rooms and gardens have been preserved to be as similar as possible to when Churchill lived at Chartwell, with pictures, books, maps, honours, medals and personal mementoes on show.

Bodnant Garden, Gwynedd, Wales

You can see the Snowdonia Mountains from Bodnant's spectacular terraced gardens. Set above a valley and the River Conwy, Bodnant Garden is home to plants from all over the world, particularly China, North America, Europe and Japan.

Bodiam Castle, East Sussex

Bodiam Castle is dates back to medieval times and it famous for its battlements, ramparts and moat. The castle was built in 1385 by Sir Edward Dalyngrigge, with the permission of Richard II, in order to defend against French invasion during the Hundred Years' War. Fans of "Monty Python and the Holy Grail" will recognise the Bodiam as the film's Swamp Castle.

Corfe Castle, Dorset

Corfe Castle is one of the oldest and most evocative castles in England. Over its 1,000 year history it has seen the alleged murder of King Edward the Martyr, royal hunts, palace life during the reign of King John and sieges during the English Civil War. It was during a siege in 1646 that the castle was demolished and ruined by Parliamentarians; much of the stone was used to build the houses of Corfe Castle Village. Today visitors can enjoy the interactive castle tour, plus walks through the surrounding Purbeck Hills.

Have you visited any of Britain's historic palaces, places and properties? Where did you most enjoy and why?

Photo Credits: Fountains Abbey by yewenyi; Stourhead by Joe Dunckley; Polesden Lacey by swamibu; Wakehurst Palace by Anguskirk; St. Michael's Mount by Michal Osmenda; Quarry Bank Mill and Bodnant Gardnes by zund; Chartwell by johnmuk; Bodiam Castle by Sacred Destinations; Corfe Castle by Steve9091. All photos via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Turner Wright

When you are travelling in Japan follow these simple guidelines to ensure that cultural misunderstandings (or worse) do not occur.

10) Misuse Your Shoes

Thresholds at businesses and all homes and apartments in Japan have a convenient place for you to store your shoes and don borrowed slippers for your journey. However, did you know you should never wear slippers on tatami mats? It's also a huge cultural faux-pas to come out of the bathroom still wearing toilet slippers, as they've been rubbing on dirty linoleum (although this even slips Japanese minds from time to time).

9) Bathe in the Bathtub
The bathing culture in Japan is unparalleled. Even if I soak in a mineral pool in the backwoods of New Zealand, nothing will make me feel more cleansed inside and out than a soak in a traditional Japanese hot spring resort. Ignoring the fact the water is still hotter and contains more minerals than most hot pools abroad, Japanese bathing etiquette dictates one should shower thoroughly before entering the steaming bath; if you were to do otherwise in Japanese homes (as a guest you would be given the honour of bathing first) the family would have to completely drain the tub, clean out the ring, and refill. You'd probably just be kicked out if you brought soap and shampoo into the pool at a public bathhouse.

8) Fumble with Chopsticks

You don't have to be able to pick up an individual grain of rice to use chopsticks properly. Rather, just be aware that there are a few things for which they were not meant to be used. First, even if you're sharing dishes with a group, do not pass food from one set of chopsticks to another, as this is considered in bad taste. Second, when not using them, set your chopsticks across your plate or bowl as you would a knife; poking them out of your rice resembles two sticks of incense commonly used for a certain death ceremony... and why would you want to be reminded of that over a fine dinner?

7) Grope on a Train

Obviously this isn't a mere misunderstanding of cultures if such an act were to occur, but even when visiting Japan and having nothing but pure intentions, one should be aware of the dangers. Women (and even men) have been fondled on crowded trains and often cannot trace the hands back to their owners. This has lead to women-only subway cars during peak travel times, and the police giving advice to young girls: seize the arm of your attacker and don't let go until security sees his face. I only mention this because if you're a foreigner riding a train in the land of the rising sun who knows absolutely no Japanese, and when disembarking you find a man or woman screaming "shijou!" or "chikan!", respectively (the terms for female and male perverts), you're essentially at the mercy of one individual who may have mistaken your desire to get a little bit of room on the car as blatant groping.

6) Choose the Wrong Seat
There's a somewhat antiquated custom when it comes to eating out in groups. If you're with some business colleagues, it's better for a junior member (in terms of hierarchy, not age) to take the seat closest to the doorway or access point, the senior member the farthest away. The belief is that should an attack occur, the least experienced (thus the least valuable) will be killed first, giving the others time to mobilize and protect the higher-ups.

5) Show Strong Emotions
One of the most common mistakes a foreigner makes upon entering the Japanese business world is to openly express his frustration when the unexpected comes along... and it always comes along. Showing strong emotions like anger is a social death sentence in Japan; the only time someone might get away with it would be if he were seriously inebriated, or at least making the effort to get there. Tears, especially those of happiness, can be forgiven (even from men), but take care to keep your temper in check.

4) Blow Your Nose
Even out on the street when it's sub-zero degree weather, blowing your nose in Japan is probably one of the rudest things you can do, even more so if you're talking with someone face-to-face and take a moment to pull out your handkerchief. It's the equivalent of asking someone to watch you use the toilet.

3) Yawn
This is a good policy for conversations around the world, but it really hits home in Japan. Whereas in the States or other countries one might dismiss a tired expression with a certain nonchalance or a chuckle (e.g. "crazy night on the town?"), in Japan you might as well slap your superior in the face to completely prove your desire not to listen.

2) When Listening...
I had an interview with an English school in Akita Prefecture not too long ago. As I was listening to the manager speak via Skype, I realised how out of practice I was at listening by Japanese standards. He spoke for only a few seconds at a time, each time taking my silence as an indication that the call must have been disconnected. Why? Because I failed to provide the appropriate guttural sounds: when speaking one-on-one with someone in Japan (group meetings can be an exception), it's best to utter a few words every now and again to show you still have the speaker's attention. A simple hai (yes), or so des ne (ah, I see) can work wonders.

1) Respect Yourself
Modesty is a virtue. I cannot count the number of times as an English teacher I gave high praise to certain young Japanese students, only to have their parents contradict me by saying something like "yes, but she's terrible studying at home" or "no, you must be mistaken". Disregarding or refusing complements in Japan is the only way to accept them graciously:

(in Japanese)
Me: Excuse me, but could you tell me the way to the nearest train station?
Japanese: Ooohhh! Your Japanese is so skillful!
Me: No, no, it's nothing really.

By claiming you have no skills or any life experience exceeding that of another, you in fact raise their impression of you. If I were to refer to myself as "Turner-san" or respond to such praise of my language skills with "Thank you very much! I have been diligently studying for nine months!", then I might be forgiven as an ignorant foreigner... but more likely marked as arrogant.

Photo Credits: Slippers by amirjina; Chopsticks by KaiChanVong; Morning Train by gullevek via Flickr (Creative Commons).

I've just finished reading Tim Butcher's book, 'Blood River: A Journey to Africa's Broken Heart', about his 600 mile journey overland (bar one helicopter journey) across the Congo from Lake Tanganyika to Boma. I couldn't put it down.

Butcher tells the story of his "suicidal" expedition through the Congo, as he follows in the footsteps of Henry Morton ("Dr. Livingstone, I presume?") Stanley, the Victorian journalist / explorer who charted the Congo in 999 days. He ties the narrative of his journey to accounts of the country's compelling and turbulent history.

He is helped across the Congo by UN peacekeepers, aid workers, a pygmy rights advocate, monks, rebel leaders, relics of the Colonial era, a drunk motorbike owner and many more colourful characters. Almost everyone Butcher meets he interviews, resulting in a fascinating patchwork of histories, stories and experiences.

In his own words, his Congo journey was not "adventure travel" but more "ordeal travel". Along the way Butcher encounters stumbling block after stumbling block, finally beating the obstacles corrupt officials, hunger, illness, and political and socio instabilities throw his way.

The journey that took Stanley three years, and cost the lives of hundreds of tribesmen, took Butcher 44 days. Along the way he witnesses the scars of the Congo Wars - burnt out villages, exposed human remains, marauding Mai Mai gunmen - and the regression of a country whose grandparents remember modernity, but whose children have only ever seen its relics. As Butcher puts it, the modern world "had tried, but failed, to establish itself in the Congo".

The Congo may have been a glamorous host to Evelyn Waugh, Graham Greene, Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn once upon a time, but today it is "the most daunting, backward country on earth"; as Butcher laments, he "touched the heart of Africa and found it broken".

'Blood River' is a gripping and gruesome, passionate and poignant, historical and harrowing account of a country that was once a functioning place, but is now "undeveloping", spiralling backwards to a state very similar to that which Stanley witnessed in the 1870s. The Congo is "a place where the hands of the clock spin not forward, but backwards."

Find out more about 'Blood River' here.

Photo Credit: 'Pirogues on the Congo' by Julien Harneis.

Hong Kong is full of extraordinary photo opportunities for travellers. It is a region of marked contrasts: slick vertiginous skyscrapers, ramshackle traditional Chinese buildings, bustling markets, breathtaking mountains and gorgeous beaches. Travellers with an interest in photography will be richly rewarded by a visit to Hong Kong. Here are our top spots for hot Hong Kong shots.

Top Hong Kong Views:

• City skyline from Kowloon
  This just never fails to impress. Hong Kong is a seriously photogenic city!

• Hong Kong from The Peak

Again, a classic spot to get a fab Hong Kong shot, and one that won't let you down (unless the weather is miserable). If you want the city by night shot prepare to jostle with other photographers at dusk for a prime spot along Lugard Road.

• Neon Signs on Nathan Road

In many respects Hong Kong comes to life after dark. The city is full of neon signs like this one, especially around Nathan Road, Mongkok, Causeway Bay and Wanchai.

• Pristine Beaches in Sai Kung Country Park
  In a city as hectic and (often) as polluted as Hong Kong, the beaches in Sai Kung - such as Tai Long Wan - have got to be seen to be believed. Deserted, unspoiled and tranquil are the three words that spring immediately to mind.

• Sea and mountain views along The Dragon's Back trail, Shek O
  Dubbed "Best Urban Hike" by Time Magazine, The Dragon's Back Trail is an 8.5km trail (with a 5km get out option!) through lush forests, across gurgling waterfalls and along the Dragon's Back ridge. It offers fantastic views of Hong Kong island's mountains and southern coast line. On a good day you can see out to some of the outlying islands.

Hong Kong History & Culture

• Man Mo Temple, Hollywood Road

Built in 1847, the Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road is dedicated to two gods, Man the god of literature and Mo the god of war. The centre of the temple is filled with hundreds of burning incense sticks and coils. Watch a video of the Man Mo Temple.

• Mahjong
  You'll hear the clicking and clacking of the tiles before you see the players. Mahjong matches take place in shops and cafes across the city.

• Fortune Tellers, Temple Street Market (near Tin Hau temple)
  You can have your fortune told by a man or a bird (no joke); whatever you choose you're guaranteed great photos.

• Tian Tan Buddha (aka The Big Buddha), Lantau Island
  This imposing statue makes a great photographic subject. The 110 ft tall Buddha sits serenely near the Po Lin Monastery at Ngong Ping on Lantau Island.

• World War II bunkers
  There are masses of deserted World War II bunkers across Hong Kong. They serve as a reminder of what happened before and after the Battle of Hong Kong, which began on 8 December 1941 and ended on Christmas Day with Hong Kong surrendering to Japan.

• Junks
  There are very few traditional junks (Chinese sailboats) left in Hong Kong, but there are certainly some to snap. The most obvious is the reproduction Aqua Luna, with its distinctive red sails, which crosses between Hong Kong island and Tsim Sha Tsui daily and nightly. The second one that springs to mind is the Duk Ling junk.

Hong Kong's Architecture

• Bank of China Tower
  Criticised by some practitioners of Feng Shui, but praised by most others, The Bank of China Tower is one of the most recognisable buildings in Hong Kong. The design is said to resemble growing bamboo shoots, symbolising livelihood and prosperity.

• International Finance Centre (IFC)
  So photogenic that it featured in the recent Batman film, The Dark Knight. The IFC was the city's tallest building until 2008, but has now been usurped by the ICC.

• The Center
  Another location used in The Dark Knight, The Center is best viewed at night when the building's neon lights change colours.

• Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wanchai
  Whether you think it looks like a turtle of a strange armadillo, this building definitely got some interesting curves!

• Statue Square
  The 19th century Statue Square, with its colonial architecture, makes a great place to photograph the old against the new. Nearby buildings include the impressive HSBC headquarters building, and the IFC.

• Traditional Shop Fronts, Central and Wanchai
  Dotted amongst the ultra-modern buildings of Central and Wanchai are pockets of traditional shop fronts that have (so far) survived demolition. Where you do find them you can get a sense of what Hong Kong must have looked like until reclamation began on a large scale.
  
  

Hong Kong Icons

• Star Ferry
  As well as being a Hong Kong icon in its own right, the Star Ferry is also a brilliant place to photograph the famous view of Victoria Harbour and the Hong Kong skyline.

• Peak Tram
  The Peak Tram has been running from Central to Victoria Peak since 1888. It covers 1.4km up a staggering gradient, and offers impressively vertiginous photo opps over the harbour and skyscrapers of Hong Kong.

• Happy Valley Racecourse
  From September to early July Hong Kong's horse races at Happy Valley are not to be missed. Jockeys in colourful silks, gleaming race horses, and a very vibrant crowd make this a hot spot for photographers. Watch a video of the racing at Happy Valley.

• Trams

Hong Kong has the only tram network in the world that exclusively runs double decker trams. The trams have been running since 1904 and still serve 240,000 commuters every day. They trundle between Shau Kei Wan and Kennedy Town, with a branch connecting to Happy Valley. A trip costs just HK$2 per adult, which is amazing photographic value-for-money.

The Quieter Side of Hong Kong

• Seafood restaurants and villages, Lamma Island
  See a fish, pick a fish, eat that fish. The seafood restaurants on laid-back Lamma are legendary. Let your lens go into overdrive as you capture village life and seafood feasts.

• Hiking trails, New Territories
  Dramatic views, seclusion and a whole lot of green. These trails offer photographers fantastic shots of Hong Kong's wild side.

• Tai O village, Lantau Island

Visit Tai O to shoot the scenic Pang Uks (stilt houses), that reach out right over the water. The traditional salted fish and shrimp paste shop fronts also make good photographic fodder.

• Tai Chi
  In the early morning people all over Hong Kong head to their nearest outdoor space to practise Tai Chi. The Zoological and Botanical Garden is a great place to shoot if you're willing to get up early (Tai Chi kicks off at about 6:30am).

Hong Kong Festivals

• Chinese New Year
  Chinese New Year is a great time to photograph heaving temples, bustling flower markets, Lai See packets, and the city's biggest celebrations.

• Autumn Festival

After Chinese New Year, this is Hong Kong's biggest celebration and makes for great photographs. Shops, restaurants and outdoor spaces are decorated with lanterns and ribbons. Mooncakes are exchanged, and dragon dances take place across the city. One of the best places to celebrate the Autumn Festival is Victoria Park in Causeway Bay.

Hong Kong Markets

• The Wet Markets
  More death, decapitation and de-scaling than you can imagine, but the wet markets are a brilliant place to get interesting, vibrant shots of Hong Kongers buying their fresh fish, meat and vegetables. Check out the market on Graham Street in Central. Watch a video of a Hong Kong market.

• Bird Market, Mong Kok
  The Yuen Po Street Bird Market is where Hong Kong's songbird owners gather to show off and sell birds in intricately carved cages. Open daily from 7am - 8pm.

• Flower Market, Mong Kok
  The Flower Market's exotic blooms make for some great photographs. Come before Chinese New Year to see families buying auspicious plants to celebrate the new Lunar year. Open daily from 7am - 7pm.

• Goldfish Market, Mong Kok

Goldfish and exotic species of every size, shape and colour are on display here in aquariums and bags. Head to Tung Choi Street to shoot the spectacle. Open daily from 10:30am - 10pm.

We hope you have a brilliant photo tour of Hong Kong and a fantastic time capturing this amazing city on film. To see more photos of Hong Kong from iloho.com click here.

Photo Credits: 'Hong Kong from The Peak' by Emma Torry; 'Nathan road, Kowloon' by JoopDorresteijn; 'Prayers...' by Hina :-); 'Traditional shop in Central' by Emma Torry; 'Blue House in Wanchai' by Taekwonweirdo; 'Apocalypse Now' by .mushi_king; 'Lantern Festival Bird' by timlam18; 'Goldfish Market' by sebr.

By Connie Motz

Looking for something different to do in New Orleans? How does a narrated walking tour through the cobblestoned French Quarter sound? Fairly normal I hear you say, but think again… Thrill seekers can get their kicks at night in "the most haunted city in America," on a walking tour in search of New Orleans' ghosts and spirits.

What will you see on a haunted tour? Who knows: so be sure to take your camera with plenty of film or lots of space on your memory card just in case; when it comes to the paranormal photographs of seemingly uneventful scenes and uninteresting objects can show eerie shapes and strange shadows once they are developed.

Le Petit Theatre du Vieux Carre has been continuously haunted since it was built in 1922. Two young distraught actresses both committed suicide at the theatre; a stagehand from the 1920s still loves to play tricks on current employees; and a ghostly group of children loves to play with the theatre's office equipment.

In the heart of the French Quarter is the Andrew Jackson Hotel, former site of a boarding school where five children lost their lives in a fire in the 1700s. Hotel guests have reported finding photographs on their cameras taken of them from above as they lay sleeping in their beds at night.

The House on Rue Royale is said to be one of the most haunted and most horrific of all the ghostly realms in New Orleans. The mansion was ruled by Mademoiselle Lalaurie who subjected her slaves to various grotesque tortures and caused a little girl to fall from the rooftop to her death in the courtyard below. They say that the screams can still be heard today.

Near Jackson Square is Pirates Alley where the ghost of Jean Lafitte wanders in the early morning hours. His footsteps can be seen on the damp cobblestone street between the Spanish Governor's Mansion and St. Louis Cathedral.

All tour guides within the city of New Orleans are required to be licensed through a combination of residency and general knowledge of the city, so you can be sure that any tour you choose will be informative, safe, and entertaining.

There are several night time tours offered in New Orleans that explore the haunted "hot spots" that have even been featured on The Discovery Channel and The History Channel.

Gray Line Tours features a nightly departure from the Jackson Brewery for a two hour walkabout reasonably priced at USD 22 per adult.

The New Orleans Ghost Tour offered nightly by Haunted History Tours is touted to be the #1 Haunted Tour in the Crescent City. Reservations can be made for the two hour tour online for the price of USD 20 per adult.

For more information on ghostly tours in New Orleans, visit these websites:

• New Orleans Convention & Visitors Bureau

• Haunted History Tours

• Gray Line Tours

Photo Credits: 'Ghosts of New Orleans' by Diamondduste; 'French Quarter - Andrew Jackson Hotel' by David Paul Ohmer via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Kate Harris

Motorbikes, motorbikes, motorbikes. If a single image can represent a city, for Saigon it is the motorbike. It would be possible to fill an entire photo album with pictures of them alone; a motorbike as a school bus, a motorbike as a grocer's cart, a motorbike as a removal van. On the roads they flow like water through the city, churning like rapids at busy intersections. On the pavements they stand in endless metal rows of makeshift parking lots.

Motorbikes, however, are not the only things to capture the eye, or the imagination, in this city. Spectacular structures and scenes are woven together to reveal vivid impressions of Saigon past and present. Remnants of the Chinese and French occupations form the backdrop to the energetic hurly burly of this modern metropolis.

Two birds with one stone

The square at the top of Dong Khoi, one of District 1's most prominent streets, is an ideal place to get photographing. A central location, it includes two of the most notable architectural legacies of the French colonial era. The Notre Dame Cathedral, built towards the end of the 19th Century using bricks transported from Marseilles, stands at the north-east side of the square. In a city where open space is at a premium, make the most of the plot of grass in front the church to capture an image of this imposing structure.

Rotating ninety degrees to the right, is a similarly beautiful French structure, which at first glance appears to be a railway station but is in fact Ho Chi Minh City's Central Post Office. Under a dome shaped roof, individual wooden phone booths, adorned with clocks displaying times across the world, evoke the feeling of a black and white movie played out on cine reel. If you venture to the back of the post office, you will see a painting of Ho Chi Minh.

Located at the top of Dong Khoi. Notre Dame Cathedral: Han Thuyen. (The front gate may be locked. Also try the entrance on the south west side of the basilica.) Central Post Office: 2 Cong Xa Paris. Open 7am – 9.30pm.

Hard to miss

You won't be the only person photographing the People's Committee Building. This central landmark is right at the heart of downtown Saigon and hard to avoid. The building was originally constructed at the beginning of the 20th Century as the Hôtel de Ville (city hall) and it maintains its ornate colonial edifice. The interior, however, is off limits, so keep your snaps to the outside only.

People's Committee Building, located at the north-west end of Nguyen Hue.

Art's fine by me

Only a few hundred yards from the hectic Ben Thanh Market, the Fine Arts Museum is cloaked in an aura of calm and instantly transports you to colonial Saigon. Shuttered windows adorn a faded yellow façade, contrasted with blue ceramic detailing. The museum itself is not particularly notable for its art, but the interior does offer some interesting shots of its wrought iron staircase, tiled floors and the courtyard that the building encircles. Alternatively, you can wander around to the back of the museum (where you can stroll through some contemporary art galleries) and walk into the courtyard through the back entrance.

Fine Arts Museum, 97A Pho Duc Chinh. Open 9am – 4.30pm.

Gilded glory

Cholon, Saigon's Chinatown, straddles districts 5 and 6. It has the highest concentration of pagodas in the city and is well worth a visit with your camera. Quan Am Pagoda is one of the most notable and is popular with both Vietnamese and Chinese Buddhists. Arrays of colours greet you at the gatehouse, and inside, shafts of sunlight bounce off the heavily gilded altar, statues and wall decorations. Look out for the ornate panels just next to the entrance door, fashioned in gold and lacquer and be sure to walk behind the main altar to the rear courtyard where there is a statue to Quan Am, the goddess of mercy.

Cholon has a different feel to the rest of the city, and the best way to explore it is on foot, absorbing the sights and smells and unearthing the vast array of items on sale from fabric (see below) and handmade scissors to Chinese herbs and lion masks.

Quan Am Pagoda, 12 Lao Tu, Cholon.

The story lies within

Cha Tam Church, built at the turn of the 19th Century, stands in a courtyard so languid and picturesque that it feels a world away from hectic downtown Saigon. In fact, it played an integral part to the city's history when President Ngo Dinh Diem and his brother Ngo Dinh Nhu fled to it for refuge from an attempted coup on 2 November 1963. Upon surrendering, they were escorted from the church under orders of the coup leaders but the soldiers executed the brothers before arrival back in central Saigon.

Cha Tam Church, 25 Hoc Lac, at the western end of Tran Hung Dao, Cholon.

In a city teaming with commerce, almost every street offers an array of wares appealing to the shutterfly. Here's a selection to seek out:

Well heeled

Le Thi Hong Gam, the street adjacent to the Fine Arts Museum, displays a sea of shoes, from sandals to trainers, work shoes to flip-flops. Other leather goods such as belts and wallets lie nestled in between these knock-offs of well known brands. This street doesn't have the bustle of the market, but is impressive for its sheer quantity of goods.

I want to ride my bicycle

If the road isn't full of motorbikes, then it's full of motorbike parts. Pham Huu Chi in the Cholon district of Ho Chi Minh City is a grease monkey's and photographer's dream. The street is covered with everything you could need to build or repair a bike. Wing mirrors dangle from shop ceilings, lights are heaped in piles by the doorway, spare tyres stack up on the pavement and there is a constant racket of clanging metal.

Like the cut of your cloth

The rolls of fabric on sale in Saigon offer myriad photo opportunities. In Tan Dinh Market, cloth merchants sit atop of mountains of material, or perch on small stools eating noodles in the tiny gangways between each stall. The colourful silks in Ben Thanh Market brighten the dimness of this vast covered market built in 1914. But beware, by far the most tourist savvy of the markets, you may want to think twice before taking your camera out. Pop outside to see the main entrance with its belfry and clock, which has become a symbol of Saigon. To view the fabrics in the natural light, journey to Nguyen Trai and Do Ngoc Thanh streets in Cholon. Wait for a store-owner to unravel a spool and you can capture an unending parade of shapes and colours.

Tan Dinh Market: Hai Ba Trung, Walk 200 yards north-west along Hai Ba Trung from the intersection with Vo Thi Sau; Ben Thanh Market: intersection of Le Loi, Ham Nghi, Tran Hung Dao and Le Lai.

Knick Knack anyone?

War memorabilia abounds in Saigon and there are a variety of places to go to peruse for GI Zippos and combat boots. Dan Sinh Market, also known as The War Memorabilia Market, houses all of this and more and you have to fight through the busy networks of hardware stalls to track down your goods. The more photogenic option is the nearby street, Le Cong Kieu. This street has a large number of shops opening onto the road, offering an eclectic mix of artefacts and bric a brac. Old money, ceramic vases, gramophone players all jostle for space. If you switch from taking pictures to taking pieces, be careful, as not all of what is for sale is authentic.

Dan Sinh Market, 104 Yersin.

We like it fresh

The mountains of fresh food piled high on carts, or transported on motorbikes make excellent photo opportunities and there's no shortage of markets and street restaurants to snap away at. Most central is Ben Thanh Market, which is also surrounded by a hubbub of food stalls. For some more open-air markets, take a wander along the streets leading off Nguyen Trai in Cholon. Down here, you can also weave in and out of the stalls selling traditional Chinese herbs around Trieu Quang Phuc Street.

And finally... time to unwind

Ho Chi Minh City does not have many parks to boast of, and yet there is an unmistakeable feeling of tropical greenery in some areas of the city, most notably along the banks of the Saigon River. Perhaps the most relaxing way to record the river, and tune your zoom lens onto the vibrant pink bougainvillea leaves, is to take a taxi out to District 2, known as An Phu. Visit the waterside bar and restaurant The Deck for a sundowner and snap away in peaceful seclusion.

The Deck Restaurant, 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, District 2, HCMC; Tel: +84 (0) 8344 6632.

Photo Credits: Photos by Kate Harris, apart from 'The Notre Dame Cathedral in Saigon' by Quang Minh (YILKA) and 'Hotel de Ville de Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam' by yeowatzup.

By Ross Bowers

Morocco made me slightly hesitant to go on another holiday in an Arab country – the happy snaps look idyllic, but they don't reveal the heat, hassle, snorting and swindling going on just out of shot. Nevertheless, I was intrigued by Petra and the Dead Sea and thought a trip to Jordan was an opportunity not to be missed.

Travelling with two pretty girls added to my trepidation about heading back to North Africa as I adopted the self-aggrandising role of guardian of the two blondes.

'Would you like to buy a necklace for your tall wife?'

'No thank you very much'

'How about for your short wife?'

Confused and envious eyes followed me everywhere and I was on red alert for phlegm assaults, pick pockets and devious taxi drivers. I was worrying unnecessarily – the girls are tougher than me, the Jordanian people are kind and honest, and the country is clean and well organised. The best bit about travelling to Jordan is that most of the sights can be covered in a week; the tourist circuit is fairly well trodden so getting around is easy and there are always people to share transport with.

We landed in the bustling metropolis of Amman, spending a couple of nights there whilst visiting the ancient ruins at Jerash before hotfooting it down to Petra along the King's Highway, a rich chain of historical and archaeological sites. We stopped at Madaba, the 'City of Mosaics', Mount Nebo (which, according to the final chapter of Deuteronomy, is where Moses was given a view of the Promised Land), and the fortified town and castle of Karak.

Petra alone makes the trip to Jordan worthwhile; one of the seven wonders of the modern world, it is a vast city, carved into the red rock by the Nabataeans more than 2,000 years ago. It was an important hub for the silk, spice and other trade routes that linked China, India and southern Arabia with Egypt, Syria, Greece and Rome.

Since Petra was featured in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, the locals have gone a little Indiana crazy with most stalls offering some sort of Harrison Ford souvenirs. But it is hard not to be transported to another era as speeding horses gallop past, weaving their way through colonnaded streets to the treasury, temples, sacrificial altars and eventually the Monastery up 800 rock cut steps. Camels and donkeys provide every opportunity for some amusing photos along the way.

Next stop was the desert and towering rock formations of Wadi Rum - Lawrence of Arabia's headquarters during the Arab Revolt against the Ottomans (1917 – 1918). Here we experienced our first bit of swindling.

Wadi Rum itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is actually a fenced reserve. Several tour operators however, take you just outside of the site, put you up in sub-standard tented camps and drive you around in jeeps pretending that you are in the real Wadi Rum. Thankfully they are so convincing that we enjoyed the experience in blissful ignorance – only realising later that we had visited 'not-quite-Wadi Rum'. Our suspicions were only aroused when we realised that we were the only guests staying in our tented camp.

The next day we witnessed the breathtaking beauty of the Dana Nature Reserve (where the Feynan Eco Lodge and project is excellent) en route to two nights at the Marriott Dead Sea Resort and Spa for the luxury finale to the holiday.

The lowest point on earth, the Dead Sea, is a marvel – the health benefits of the sea itself and the mud are well known and we quickly covered ourselves in mud and floated whilst reading a newspaper. Hours of amusement: until you get sea water in your eyes.

I tried out the most unique Dead Sea treatment I could find, a mud / wrap / flotation, which turned out to be the worst hour of my life. I was greeted by a large Jordanian man, given a pathetic pair of paper undies, covered in mud, wrapped in cling film and then engulfed in a human-sized hot water bottle with only my head sticking out for air. Large Jordanian man then left so that I could 'relax' / suffer from acute claustrophobia. It was so hot that the mud and sweat dripped in to my eyes and since I was in a cling film straight-jacket there wasn't much I could do about it.

After that experience I decided to stick to eating and drinking. Just about any cuisine is available in Jordan, and if you can avoid the drive through Starbucks there are some great dishes to try out. I particularly enjoyed the Mansaf, which is a Bedouin dish consisting of rice, a rich broth made from dry sour milk (jameed), and either lamb or chicken. Simple, but tasty.

On our final morning, the maître d' welcomed us to breakfast with a cheerful 'It's nice to be here', um – I think you mean 'It's nice to have you here', but it was nice to be there - Jordan is an amazing country where you can relax and enjoy a real sense of adventure and cultural learning at the same time.

Photos by Ross Bowers, except Bedouin Man by hazy jenius, Wadi Rum by Tbass Effendi and Dead Sea Reflection by Mr. Kris via Flickr.

Heading to London this month or next and itching to know what's cool in the UK capital? You've come to the right place.

The all-knowing concierge team from Claridges, the Connaught and the Berkeley, aka "the city's best-informed residents", share their advice on what to do and where to go if you're planning a trip to London.

AUGUST

Drink...

Tini: The latest venture from the team behind Whisky Mist, Mahiki and the Punchbowl is glamorous cocktail bar Tini in the ever chic South Kensington. Just a stones throw away from Boujis and Mamilanji, this new haunt should prove just as popular with the social elite.

Tini, 87-89 Walton Street, South Kensington, London, SW3 2HP: +44 (0)20 7589 8558.

Eat...

Lutyens: This summer Sir Terence Conran proves once again that he is a master of the dining room-come-bar-come-members club. Hot on the heals of his last opening, the Boundary in Shoreditch, the wily old fox has done it again with this sublime spot on Fleet Street. You'd better book now because this one could be popular: classic French cuisine with a dash of Irish flair.

Lutyens, 85 Fleet Street, London, EC4Y 1AE; +44 (0)20 7583 8385.

Party...

Michael Jackson Tribute Concert: Following the tragic passing of Michael Jackson the Tribute Concert will be going ahead at London's O2 Arena on Saturday 29th August. Who will be performing? Well that is a closely guarded secret, however I can assure you it is going to be huge! Email me if you want tickets on cbogni@the-connaught.co.uk

SEPTEMBER

Eat...

Terroirs: At first glance, Terroirs seems like just another conventional attempt to transplant a traditional French bistro to the mean streets of central London. But look beyond the old advertising posters and wooden chairs, and you realise that there's something rather special going on here. The reasonably priced food combines creativity with a respect for full-on flavours and impeccable sourcing. Oh, and the wine is ok too!

Terroirs, 5 William IV Street WC2N 4DW; +44 (0)20 7036 0660.

Chill...

Spa Illuminata: Stressed? Worn out? Just need a little bit of pampering? This is quite simply the best day spa in London. Whether it's a manicure or a full body scrub you will be treated like royalty in this temple to relaxation.

Spa Illuminata, 63 South Audley Street, London, W1K 2QS; +44 (0)20 7499 7777.

Look...

Jeff Koons at the Serpentine: Inflatable toys? Check. Popeye? Check. Baffeling kitch? Check. The New York native and enfant terrible of the art world has bought this blockbuster exhibition to London. September 13th is the last day, so catch this one while you can.

Serpentine Gallery, Kensington Gardens, London, W2 3XA; +44 (0)20 7402 6075.

Luxury London hotels Claridge's, the Connaught, and the Berkeley are part of the Maybourne Hotel Group. For more information visit www.maybourne.com.

Photo Credits: Lutyens courtesy of Lutyens Restaurant, Bar & Cellar Rooms; Terroirs by Ewan-M, Jeff Coons Popeye Series by Chris Pattison.

By Connie Motz

In the Caribbean, tucked underneath Cuba and only 100 square miles in total, lie the three Cayman Islands – Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac, and Little Cayman.

The Cayman Islands maintain a high standard of living and are known for their abundance of white sand beaches and endless water sports, including snorkelling and world class scuba diving.

With many shore excursion options available for the first time visitor, it can visiting the Caymans be overwhelming but there is a certain draw in being able to say you've been to Hell and back.

Located mid-island on Grand Cayman, Hell is a town with hardly any inhabitants – there are a few souvenir stores and the all important post office; nothing like sending a card back home from Hell just to prove you've survived.

Shore excursions label Hell as a town "featuring a pre-historical rock formation that some think Hell must surely look like." A viewing platform leads visitors to see shards of black limestone jutting out of the lifeless darkened ground as if it were the remains of a volcanic hell fire.

The ancient geological formation of jagged rocks is surrounded by dark and gloomy waters presenting an ominous, almost sinister scene. Educational guides explain that the rocks are a combination of iron shore (a type of dolomite) and limestone estimated at being 1.5 million years old.

The razor-sharp blackened rock appears to be volcanic in nature but is only coated in dark algae. The somewhat horrific landscape of Hell is framed by lush green mangroves and palm trees reminding visitors that the true beauty of the island still exists.

Everyone is invited to take the token tacky tourist picture with the cardboard cut-out devil. Postcards and other souvenirs are available for purchase with sayings like "I've been to Hell and back" and "HFD – Hell Fire Department."

Many visitors to Grand Cayman will experience a trip to Hell and will live to tell the tale.

Photo Credits: Welcome to Hell by J. Stephen Conn, Hell's Rocks by Connie Motz.

I love a good list, and National Geographic Traveler has come up trumps with the "50 Books for Summer"; whether you're going to Australia or Venezuela, there will be something for you here.

Here's a preview of the top 10.

1. Nepal: The Snow Leopard, by Peter Matthiessen (1978).

NatGeo says: Matthiessen is a multi-task traveler. In this book—one of many fine ones he's written—he and zoologist friend George Schaller trek through Nepal in physical search of Himalayan blue sheep and the rare snow leopard, and in spiritual search (Matthiessen is a Zen Buddhist) of the Lama of Shey at the ancient Buddhist shrine on Crystal Mountain. Enlightenment, anyone? Buy 'The Snow Leopard' now.

2. Patagonia: In Patagonia, by Bruce Chatwin (1977).

NatGeo says: Let's face it: Chatwin was weird, but brilliantly so. This book, launched around a childhood fancy for his grandma's scrap of giant sloth skin, takes him to the "uttermost part of the Earth," from Rio Negro to the Chilean town of Punta Arenas. Buy 'In Patagonia' now.

3. The Arctic: Arctic Dreams: Imagination and Desire in a Northern Landscape by Barry Lopez (1986).

NatGeo says: Lopez is dreamy, and his meditation on the "last frontiers" of the Arctic is as much about natural history as it is about human landscapes of imagination, desire, and progress. This National Book Award-winner is based on his travels throughout the North, including Baffin Island, Canada's Northwest Territories, and Greenland. Buy 'Arctic Dreams' now.

4. Hong Kong: Hong Kong, by Jan Morris (1989).

NatGeo says: The ever-piquant Morris masterfully unravels the enigma that is Hong Kong, from its Sino-British bipolarity to its megalithic economic structure, its hypercrowded urban landscape to its surprisingly under-explored nature reserves. Buy 'Hong Kong' now.

5. Australia: In a Sunburned Country, by Bill Bryson (2000).

NatGeo says: Bryson would probably be the perfect desert-island companion—an acerbic naturalist and historian who just can't keep an absurd moment or thought to himself. His Australia story teems with toxic caterpillars and ridiculous place-names ("Tittybong," for one). Buy 'In a Sunburned Country' now.

6. Venezuela: In Trouble Again: A Journey Between the Orinoco and the Amazon, by Redmond O'Hanlon (1988).

NatGeo says: Here's where travel becomes, perhaps, too adventurous: Thrill-seeking, hilarious O'Hanlon takes a four-month river trip and trek in the jungles of Venezuela, a buggy, shadowy, prehistoric-seeming netherworld. The result? An illuminating diary of the jungle's wildlife and people. Buy 'In Trouble Again: A Journey Between Orinoco and the Amazon' now.

7. Paris: A Moveable Feast, by Ernest Hemingway (1964).

NatGeo says: "This is how Paris was in the early days when we were very poor and very happy," recollects Hemingway in this vivid memoir of 1920s Paris, a metropolis brimming with creative types and revolutionary ideas. Buy 'A Moveable Feast' now.

8. China: The River at the Center of the World: A Journey Up the Yangtze, and Back in Chinese Time, by Simon Winchester (1996).

NatGeo says: Historian Winchester seems to know everything, but he's such an engaging raconteur you can hardly begrudge him his smarts. Here he travels the 3,434-mile (5,526-kilometer)Yangtze River, reflecting on the historic importance of the river and the social straits in which the Chinese now find themselves. Buy 'The River at the Center of the World: A Journey Up the Yangtze, and Back in Chinese Time' now.

9. U.S.: Travels with Charley: In Search of America, by John Steinbeck (1961).

NatGeo says: "When I was very young and the urge to be someplace else was on me, I was assured by mature people that maturity would cure this itch," Steinbeck begins. The itch in question went unscratched until, at 58, he launched a road trip from Maine to California—accompanied by his poodle, Charley. The America he discovers surprises both himself and his readers. Buy 'Travels with Charley in Search of America' now.

10. Hungary: Valeria's Last Stand, by Marc Fitten (2009).

NatGeo says: This stripped-down modern day fairy tale depicts Zivatar, a fictional village in Hungary, as a place where not much new happens — until one fateful day when the town grump, 68-year-old Valeria, sees the elderly village potter as if for the first time, and is thunderstruck with love. Much of the charm of this tale lies in Fitten's portrayal of Zivatar, a place so far off the beaten track that German tanks (during WWII), Russian tanks (during the 1956 revolution), and even the modern highway all ignore it. Buy 'Valeria's Last Stand' now.

See the full list at traveler.nationalgeographic.com.

Photo Credit: Rest in Peace by Randy Son Of Robert via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Helena Iveson

Beijing must rank as one of the world's best cities for shutterbugs. From world-famous sights like the Forbidden City, with its vermilion walls and brocade-like golden eaves, to the grey muted tones of the city's hutong alleys where locals sit and watch the world cycle by, Beijing's colours and contrasts are there for the taking.

But while travel photographers seek to capture the essence of traditional Beijing – and watching the sun set on the Forbidden City from the summit of Jingshan Park is unbeatable – don't overlook the best of the new, from the Egg - the futuristic and austere looking National Centre for the Performing Arts near Tiananmen Square - to the quirky and twisted CCTV Building, now bordered by the burnt out remains of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel which was set on fire by fireworks in February. The burnt out shell might not be pretty, but photographic? Definitely.

These tips aim to help photography loving travellers and travel loving photographers come home armed with the best Beijing shots possible. If a picture can paint a thousand words, imagine what a really good picture can do…

THE TRADITIONAL

The Lama Temple: The Lama Temple is the Beijing's biggest Buddhist temple and it is splendidly atmospheric. The complex, which is made up of brightly coloured courtyards, prayer halls and statues, is experiencing a resurgence in popularity, and the contrast between mini-skirted women with Louis Vuitton bags burning incense watched by chanting shaven-haired monks is worth a few shots. The best time to head here is first thing in the morning or just before it shuts at 4.30pm.

12 Yonghegong Dajie, Dongcheng district. Tel: +86 10 6404 4499; Open daily 9 – 4.30pm; Nearest subway: Lama Temple.

Confucius Temple: About 50 metres north of the Lama Temple is this quiet but impressive temple which commemorates Confucius, China's best-known philosopher. First built in 1302, the complex has been knocked down and renovated throughout its history and while there are plenty of un-renovated gently fading buildings, the newly painted buildings are bright and inviting. The temple's courtyard is full of stele, commemorating the scholars that passed the imperial exam during the Qing, Ming and part of the Yuan dynasties: unfortunately you cannot read the characters on the stele anymore because of weathering. This temple receives relatively few visitors, so if you need a break from the crowds but want some shots of imperial architecture, head here.

13 Guozijian Jie, Dongcheng district. Tel: +86 10 8402 7224; Open daily 9 -5pm; Nearest Subway: Lama Temple.

Beijing's Hutongs (around the Drum and Bell Towers): Just north of the square between these two towers is a maze of historic Qing dynasty alleys where you're near guaranteed to get that hutong money shot. Think peeling paint, old men playing checkers, people bicycling by... Look out for Doufuchi Hutong where Mao Zedong used to live, before taking a left onto Baochao Hutong. The charm of the area is finding it: you have to navigate yourself round winding lanes and will probably encounter more than one dead-end, but who cares? Just watch out for the rickshaw riders who power round corners at speed just as you're focusing your shot.

North of Drum and Bell Towers, Gulou Dajie, Dongcheng district; Nearest Subway: Gulou.

THE NEW

The Egg: Ahead of the 2008 Olympics, Beijing's authorities added some architectural spice with the unveiling of the National Centre for Performing Arts mere metres from Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. Some absolutely hate the building, and it certainly stands out in the area for being more space-age than Stalinist. Designed by French architect Paul Andreu, the building steals the limelight from the two historical and political symbols of the capital and while few seem to actually go into the building to see a performance, there are always lots of photographers capturing the place through their viewfinders.

Xi Chang'an Jie, Xicheng district; Nearest Subway: Tiananmen West.

The Watercube: The Beijing Olympic Games served as a catalyst for one of the most dramatic reinventions ever seen by a city, and every keen travel photographer should catch the subway to the Olympic Park to see the twisted pylons of the National Stadium, popularly known as the Bird's Nest, and the dramatic over-sized bubbles of the National Aquatics Centre, aka the Watercube. I prefer the latter for its eye-catching exterior that looks good close-up or from a distance. You can even go for a swim there, and act out those Michael Phelps fantasies, after you've got your shots.

Olympic Green, Haidian district; Nearest Subway: Olympic Green.

THE QUIRKY

The Workers' Stadium: If Soviet-style art gets your heart racing but a trip to Russia isn't on the agenda, rest assured that there are plenty of throwbacks to a bygone era dotted around Beijing. The Workers' Stadium, which was the venue for the football competitions at the Olympics in 2008, was built in 1959 when relations between China and Russia were warm and comradely. At the entrance look out for the huge statue of a suspiciously western looking couple, with the muscle-bound man holding a flag aloft, and a woman raising her right arm in triumph. They don't make them like this anymore…

Workers' Stadium, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang district; Nearest subway: Dongsishitiao.

Beach life, Beijing style: The city may be land-locked, but that doesn't stop Beijing's millions of residents – sometimes it seems all at the same time – from wanting to cool down with a swim and descending on Tuanjiehu Park in the centre of the city. It's a people-watching, travel photographer's paradise: tattooed young dudes on the prowl ogling high heeled wearing bikini-clad babes mix in with young kids splashing around watched by eagle-eyed parents and grandparents who sit sedately on the artificial beach.

Tuanjiehu Park, Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang district. Tel: +81 10 8597 4677; Nearest subway: Tuanjiehu.

For more travel information about Beijing, click here.

Photo Credits: confucius prayers by latigi. All other images by Helena Iveson.

By Christina Newberry

Chichen Itza, an ancient Mayan city on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula is one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. Every day, thousands of tourists flock to the site to witness the grandiose architecture of the Mayan people. But twice a year, Chichen Itza is more than just an archaeological site. On the spring and fall equinoxes, Chichen Itza becomes a magical place, when the Mayan serpent god Kulkulkan appears in full view on the pyramid that bears his name.

Kulkulkan's appearance is a marvel of Mayan engineering. The Kulkulkan pyramid, also known as "El Castillo", is constructed so that for just one hour, only twice a year, the angle of the sun is exactly right for the shadows to form the image of a feathered serpent descending the west wall of the temple. This serpent is the Mayan god Kulkulkan.

On March 21, the spring equinox, I hopped on a bus packed full with other travellers hoping to catch a glimpse of the ancient god in the present day. The night before, there had been a storm. Water fell from the sky like nothing I had ever seen before, and wild winds rattled the windows. With the spring equinox coming, it seemed nature was throwing her weight around, making sure we were all paying attention to the changing of the seasons.

And so, as we began our long, hot ride to the archaeological site, we were all nervous – the clouds were out, and we had all witnessed first-hand what could come from those clouds. Since Kulkulkan's appearance is based on the position of the sun and the formation of shadows, we were hopeful but not certain that we would see him on this, our only opportunity.

After exploring the site, we all gathered in front of the pyramid – hot, sweaty, and thirsty from the intense heat despite the gray sky – holding our breath to see what would happen. Some people burned incense. Others prayed – to Kulkulkan or to another god, I'm not sure. The serpent started to form, there were breaks of sun, and 70,000 visitors cheered in unison. But then the sun slipped behind a solid, massive cloud, and it looked like our hopes of seeing Kulkulkan in his full form had been dashed.

The crowd started to break up, but thousands of us refused to budge, hoping against hope that there would be a break in the huge cloud – just for a moment. A few times, the sun shone dimly through, and we could get an idea of what we were missing. The pale outline of Kulkulkan was visible, and this only made us want the full experience even more.

And then, finally, it happened. From behind an impossibly huge, thick, solid cloud, the sun appeared. And there was Kulkulkan, perfectly formed, just as he would have been 1,500 years ago when there were Mayans living at Chichen Itza. Everyone's arms flew into the air together, as we thanked the Mayans (and maybe their gods) for giving us this incredible gift.

Then, suddenly, as if to emphasize the changing of the seasons that Kulkulkan's presence signifies, the skies opened up, and with the sun still shining, it started to rain.

Photo Credits: Christina Newberry and newpn2000 (via Flickr).

By Andy Hayes

Visitors to England often spend most or all of their time in London and its surrounding villages and countryside, overlooking some of the more intriguing cities of the North, such as Manchester, which is experiencing a cultural boom. Here are just a few of the best things to see and do during a stay in Manchester, whether your trip is a quick weekend break or a longer stay.

WALK AND SEE MANCHESTER

Manchester's city centre has been transformed in recent years to entice locals to live and work in the area, so now you'll find art galleries, museums, shopping, and restaurants all within easy reach. Manchester's centre also provides access to the canal network, formerly the backbone of the city's industrial heritage but now a walker's haven with many workers using the route as a stress-free commute.

Don't miss stops such as the Manchester Cathedral, Manchester Town Hall - one of the most important Victorian buildings in England - and The Manchester Wheel. If you get tired of walking you can be anywhere in Manchester quickly with the easy-to-use tram and bus system.

EAT MANCHESTER

Like London, Manchester has a truly diverse population and the city's cuisine follows suit – so much so there is even an annual food and drink festival (1 - 12 Oct 2009). One of the most popular places to dine is an area of Rusholme called "Curry Mile". Resembling a subdued version of the Las Vegas strip, the street is lined on both sides with neon signs beckoning you for a beer and a curry.

You can't go wrong with a meal in this part of town – try the Royal Naz (18 Wilmslow Rd, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 256 1060) or Shere Khan (50-52 Wilmslow Rd, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 256 2624), a couple of Manchester's more famous curry houses. Manchester seems to have a penchant for Asian food, as you can always find good Chinese, Japanese, or Korean restaurants around the city.

PARTY MANCHESTER

For the city which spawned its own rock genre, "Madchester," it is no surprise to see partying at the top of the list. Mancunians of all orientations flock to the "Gay Village" for drinks, music, and fun. Eden Bar (3 Brazil Street & Canal Street, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 237 9852) is a top choice that caters to all lifestyles and it even has its own canal barge for the summer months. Many of the venues in the Gay Village are refurbished cotton warehouses, another reminder of how the city's industrial past turning into a cosmopolitan future.

Piccadilly Gardens is also a lovely place for a drink, as well as the Northern Quarter, where you can find Mancunian music and an off-beat crowd. The Roadhouse (8 Newton St, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 228 1789) is one of the more famous live music venues, or you can try Australian-themed Billie Rox (106 Portland St, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 228 2036) bar for fun down-under anthems.

SLEEP MANCHESTER

If you go to Manchester, your best bet is to stay fairly centrally, such as near Piccadilly Station – the Malmaison on Piccadilly is an excellent choice if your budget suits. To catch a glimpse of the local television stars, stay at the Victoria and Albert Hotel on Water Street, as often actors will pop in for an after-work drink in the bar. Budget seekers should head for the Hotel Ibis on Portland Street, which has fantastic rates given its central location.

Photo Credits: Canal Street, Manchester by Coradia1000; On Wilmslow Road by iwouldstay; Madchester by mikecolvin82 via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Andy Hayes

Edinburgh, Scotland's capital city, doubles in size come August as tourists descend from all over the world to enjoy the Edinburgh Fringe (7 - 31 August 2009), dubbed the world's largest arts festival. With so many people pouring down the steep slopes of the city's streets, the old world vibe of Edinburgh can start to feel distinctly crowded. Here are some top tips for surviving:

1. Book Your Tickets in Advance

Not only do many popular shows sell out, but by buying in advance you'll avoid the sometimes lengthy queues at the Fringe box office (180 High Street, Edinburgh; +44 (0)131 226 0026). If you do want to buy something later on see if you can get tickets at the venue itself – it might save you the extra trip and save time. You can buy tickets online at the Edinburgh Fringe website but get a paper copy of the entire programme (it's easier to read), then go online to search and buy.

2. Eat Early

Restaurants become a real problem during the Edinburgh Festival – few if any take reservations and the numbers of people coming through all but break many kitchens. The staff at most places do a great job coping (after all, it's a yearly event) but you'll have to wait. To ease the pain, try eating early. Otherwise, look for a restaurant further away from the city centre – great food can be found near Haymarket and Stockbridge, where there are fewer Fringe venues and subsequently fewer tourists.

3. Spend some time away from the Fringe

It's easy to come to Edinburgh and get caught up in the excitement of the event, but don't forget Edinburgh is a city full of other sights and plenty of outdoor activities. Get some fresh air up on Arthur's Seat, the highest point in the city, or check out the monuments on top of Calton Hill at the end of Princes Street. Head down to Leith and check out the harbour area. When you get back to the crowded Fringe venues, you'll feel refreshed.

There's no use hoping that your Fringe visit will not be crowded; it's part of the experience. So relax, soak up the atmosphere, and enjoy Edinburgh's transformation into an arts and theatre wonderland – there's nothing like it.

Photo Credits: Crowds at the Edinburgh Fringe by freefotouk, Edinburgh desde Calton Hill by estorde via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Helena Iveson

Is there a more food-obsessed city than Kuala Lumpur? Malaysia's ethnic blend of Chinese, Malay and Indian has made Kuala Lumpur Asia's capital city of gluttony. "We are truly a food-mad country," says Honey Ahmad, co-founder of local food blog Fried Chillies. "Eating is what unites us. When we talk about food, it transcends race and religion and breaks down barriers."

Fasting for a few days before arrival might be a good idea as something else that unites locals is a love of carbs, from Indian roti bread to Malaysian favourite Hokkien mee noodles. But dining out in Kuala Lumpur, whether it be at the street-side stalls which line the city or in one of the many air-conditioned malls, is the city's greatest pleasure and staggeringly inexpensive.

Your first stop in KL should be night market Jalan Alor, near Bukit Bintang, the neon-lit nightlife centre. The street used to be a red light district but is now a family-friendly destination where spice and sauce comes from flaming woks.

Take a wander through the stalls and feast on the sight of hungry diners perched on rickety stools, waiting for their char siew barbequed pork or steaming plates of chilli fried squid to arrive amongst the clatter of woks.

Stalls to look out for include Jalan Alor Nasi Lamak Stall at the road's junction with Changkat Bukit Bintang. Carnivores will devour the meltingly rich beef rendang, where the meat is stewed in thick coconut milk for a day. Locals eat it with sambal kerang – a chilli and cockles paste – on the side. If you have room for more meat, don't miss out on the fabulous Wong Ah Wah chicken stall at the end of the road – just look out for the queue of fans waiting for their wings.

Where: Jalan Alor, Off Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Photo Credits: beef rendang - ready to simmer by smashz, NL - dishes by babe_kl via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Harriet Torry

On Saturday, Jersey celebrated the 64th anniversary of the island's liberation from five years of Nazi occupation during the Second World War. An international music festival, street parades, an outdoor service of thanksgiving and a enactment of the arrival of the British troops all commemorated the 9th May 1945 – the day when, as the British Prime Minister Winston Churchill said, "our dear Channel Islands are also to be freed".

The Jersey Liberation Festival took centre stage over the weekend, hosting a number of world-class musicians at concerts and masterclasses.

The highlights included the Liberation Gala Concert at the Jersey Opera House. The Sitkovetsky Trio steered the audience through an intense musical line-up, played with great feeling and energy. The trio consists of violinist Alexander Sitkovetsky, pianist Qian Wu, and cellist Leonard Elschenbroich. The communication between the three was powerful; they played Smetana's haunting Piano Trio with thrilling intensity.

Guy Pratt struck a more lighthearted chord during his comedy gig "My Bass and Other Animals". Pratt, the former Pink Floyd bass guitarist turned stand-up comedian and "Betsy", his bass guitar, kept the audience laughing with his anecdotes about working with Madonna and sessions with an elusive Michael Jackson.

Musicians from Germany, China, Spain, Russia and Italy served to make the Jersey Liberation Festival a truly international event. The Italian-Thai opera singer Maya Sapone got the crowds swaying to the 1940s favourites "We'll Meet Again" and "A Nightingale Sang in Berkeley Square" at the street party in Liberation Square.

One thing that made the Jersey Liberation Festival special was the engagement with the local community. At the start of the festival's grand keynote event, the Liberation Gala Concert, the master of ceremonies read out poems from a recent children's poetry competition. Entitled "What Liberation Means to Me", the poems had been published in the local newspaper and gave the classical concert an injection of local colour. Schoolchildren's poems rarely feature at classical concerts, and in Jersey they made fantastic addition.

At the Coffee Concert in the Arts Centre the next morning, young Jersey musicians got the chance to perform on stage with pianists Wu Qian and Tessa Grobel. Grobel, who also directed the festival, said young musicians in Jersey really benefited from the concert, and not just for the chance to perform. "So many children came [to the masterclasses] from around the island. Everybody just raved about them, being able to watch performers rehearse, and being inspired by performers who are young enough that they could relate to." The musicians involved in the festival – no matter how acclaimed or well-known – made an effort to connect with the islanders.

The Liberation Day festivities and the Jersey Liberation Festival were both heartening and moving. Although upbeat, the celebrations reflected on a solemn historical occasion. The impassioned music of the musicians cast light on a dark chapter of Jersey's history.

Watch an exclusive interview with star pianist Wu Qian about the Jersey Liberation Festival, her favourite concert venues and why Chinese food is the best...

"Ruins of such grandeur... that, at the first view, one is filled with profound admiration" – Henri Mouhot

If you've ever been to a Bikram Yoga class you'll be well prepared for visiting Angkor Wat and its surrounding temples on foot. It is a sweaty, dusty, exhausting (albeit exhilarating!) process. If you've got the budget and the inclination why not see Angkor in style and avoid the heat, the hordes and the habitual way of doing things?

Option 1: Tour Angkor in a Vintage Citroën

Tie on that headscarf and don your driving gloves because this Angkor tour est très, très chic. Choose from a 1927 or 1928 B14 Torpedo then decide on either a half or full day of sightseeing. The "Classic Tour" takes you to Angkor Thom, Bayon and the Terrace of Elephants and the Leper King in the morning and then onto Angkor Wat for the afternoon, topped off with sunset on Phnom Bakheng. If you're feeling more intrepid, the "L'Explorateur" tour takes you to the farther flung temples of Koh Ker and Beng Melea, which are much quieter than those around Angkor Wat.

Book the tour with the Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa. An eight hour full day tour costs USD 250 (+10% tax) per car and a four hour half day tour costs USD 150 (+ 10% tax) per car. The cars take a maximum of 3 people.

Option 2: Tour Angkor by Helicopter

Indulge in a scenic helicopter ride over the Khmer Kingdom and luxuriate in magnificent Angkor Wat from on high. No tour groups, no humidity, no dust, just you, the helicopter and the stunning scenery below. Bliss. The altitude means you can truly take in the scale of Angkor's architectural wonders. You'll also see Tonle Sap Lake and the floating villages and fishing boats.

Costs from USD 51 per person. For more information click here.

Option 3: Tour Angkor by Hot Air Balloon

Henri Mouhot might be turning in his grave at the thought of this Angkor tour. Where he had to battle with jungle, leeches and leopards to get a prized temple view you can just cruise serenely to 200 metres as Angkor unfolds beneath you. Your birds-eye view covers major league players such as Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Phnom Bakheng and Tonle Sap Lake, plus many other smaller treasures. The balloon is helium filled, silent, non-polluting and tethered. No scary balloon bursting incidents for you here!

The balloon goes up thirty times per day between sunrise and sunset. For more information and booking call +855 12 520810 or email sokhasr@camintel.com.

Photo Credits: Sunrise Discovery of Angkor Wat by Stuck in Customs; Vintage Citroen via Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa; Angkor Wat from the Helicopter by petergarnhum; Angkor Wat by jurvetson.

Thinking about going abroad to teach English as a foreign language or keen to fund a trip by doing some overseas teaching? Turner Wright found it takes more than you might expect to prove your worth.

Eager to experience teaching English as a second language in other parts of the world, I signed up with the Thai Mueang Volunteers last summer. The first few days Thailand were fairly laid back: light-hearted conversation on the beach, finding the best internet café for 20 Baht an hour, going over lesson plans and introducing myself to the other teachers.

You can imagine my surprise when I was told I would not be doing any teaching on my first official day with students. The reason? Teacher's Day, a time for honoring educators with ceremonies and student speeches, fell on the first day of my four-week enrolment.

I was sick with guilt from the moment I heard this would be happening (although this feeling didn't even remotely compare to my embarrassment afterwards); students were obligated to pay their respects to me as a teacher when they had not heard so much as one word of English from my lips. The best action, I decided, would be to just hang my head as humbly as possible and try to keep the fear out of my eyes.

However, nothing could have prepared me for the onslaught of emotions that followed. I arrived at school extra sweaty, having cycled a few kilometers under the Thai sun, and waited anxiously in the teacher's lounge for the announcements that were sure to follow.

All students were ushered to largest gathering place on school property: a concrete slab void of chairs, which formed the foundation for the 4 - 6 classrooms above. A few weeks later in this same venue I would be handed a microphone and left to my own devices to create a lesson in front of 200 penetrating eyes; I would have gone through ten days of classes like that rather than one minute of an unjustified Teacher's Day (for me, anyway – certainly the other teachers were entitled).

The photos of the King were arranged at the head of the "room", the teachers and I gathered on both sides of his shrine, the students lined up perpendicularly, facing us all. In Thailand, the King is highly respected, almost to the point of divinity; it is a crime for anyone to denounce the royal family or damage an image of the King. As his face is on all Thai currency, it is bad form to drop a coin or bill, almost sacrilege to accidentally step on one.

Respect given where due, the students approached the images of the King by shuffling slowly on their knees, their heads slightly bowed and assorted flowers in their arms. I had never seen such deference to a single figure - not even the Emperor of Japan – and took the students' performance in stride, amazed at their humility and behavior. However, the King was not the only one to be honored that day; having delivered the flowers to their exalted place and given a bow, each set of students shuffled once again… to the teachers. One by one every last student in the school bowed his or her head to the floor in front of me. For more than 80% of the student population, this was their first time to see my face. And apparently, they had no problem introducing themselves from the ground.

The kind of respect given by students to teachers in Asian schools is virtually nonexistent in the west. Certainly we have all had an instructor who we lived in fear of, or greatly admired, and let our actions speak accordingly; but the entire staff? The system as a whole? If you told an American teenager he was expected to start bowing at the beginning of the school day or spend more than an hour honoring those whose careers make his future possible, he'd likely laugh in your face, then play hooky.

Yet nothing odd is thought of this sort of behavior in Asia, and it's more than simply teaching style. Teachers and students literally exist in separate castes; to violate this invisible barrier by showing contempt is almost thinkable – of course, there are always troublemakers. The same is true of positive reinforcement; where some college professors in the West have no problems letting their guard down after hours and drinking with their students, this type of friendship just isn't considered proper between students and teachers in many parts of Asia...

"We are not your friends," one studious sophomore insisted. "We will never be your friends." Her response, which I initially took as hostility toward me as a non-Korean, left me feeling depressed. It wasn't until months later that I finally came to understand how the Korean notion of friendship is vastly different than that of the West. By their Confucian system of manners, "friendship" is reserved for people of similar social status – and to regard a teacher as a "friend" (rather than a superior) would be a grave insult for both parties. (Vagabonding, Rolf Potts)

This idea goes beyond Korea, and is one reason travelers seeking employment as ESL instructors might find it difficult to hold in their personalities and play the roles to which they are assigned. People working with the JET Program might be shocked by the level of discipline in Japanese schools: automatic bows to the teacher instilled by years of practice, few, if any, physical altercations (though bullying, ijime, is a huge problem).

One might find a similar reaction when teaching in some of the more rural parts of Thailand. Although you might be able to successfully disguise any "inappropriate" behavior in cities like Bangkok or Phuket, in a small town environment, all actions lead back to you: started crying because your significant other broke with up from across the globe? Be prepared to relive it Monday morning when fellow teachers, who heard it from the town gossip, who heard it from a store owner, who heard it from her meddling son, ask what was troubling you at 7:38pm on Saturday night. Feel like ducking into a local karaoke bar to enjoy the company of some less-than-reputable women? Don't even think about it; you'll lose credibility as a teacher and a foreigner living abroad. All respect associated with someone in your position completely vanishes – in behaving badly, you not only ruin your chances, but diminish the prospects of all native English speaking teachers to follow.

The title of teacher is one of honor, and not to be taken lightly. So many Americans, UK nationals, Aussies, and Kiwis are enticed by superficial ads proclaiming:

Why not spend the next year (or more!) teaching in Japan, skiing the Japanese Alps, exploring Japan (not to mention Thailand, Cambodia, Australia, and China), and eating amazing food all while gaining valuable professional and life experience?

Fly out to Korea and broaden your experience!!!

You will have an opportunity to travel, experience new culture and teach English.

While much of what they state is true, many job seekers would frown upon calls for qualified teachers with conservative values to provide a valuable and necessary service. Inevitably, the native English speaker who adjusts to his role in society as a teacher and conforms to the local culture is the one must suited to the position, although many times schools will have to settle for whoever holds a valid passport, regardless of maturity (i.e. in Thailand).

What's been your experience when talking with English teachers abroad? Do they take their positions as seriously as they should?

Photo Credits: 1, 2, 3 all via Flickr (Creative Commons).

"You gotta hear this one song — it'll change your life; I swear."

I'm sure we all have songs, albums and soundtracks that spark a serious dose of wanderlust as soon as we hear them.

I started listening to the 2004 Garden State soundtrack again this morning after hearing one of the songs in Derric Wong's new travel video "Goodbye Turkey". Now all I can think about is packing my bags and heading off to Turkey too.

So I started looking around the web to find more lyrical travel inspiration and came across...

• IndieTravelPodcast's Top 40 Songs: A soundtrack for your journey

• Rolling Stone Magazine's 25 Best Road Trip Songs Ever

• World Hum's Top 40 Travel Songs of All Time

What are the songs that give you instant itchy travel feet and where do they make you want to travel to?

Photo Credit: 'Atardecer en Uchisar' by lecu_lillas via Flickr (Creative Commons).

(Beijing-AFP)

One of the great names in wine-making, Domaines Barons de Rothschild, said Sunday it plans to develop a vineyard in China to take advantage of growing interest in wine here.

The owners of the famed Chateau Lafite wine brand will plant the vineyard on 25 hectares (62 acres) on a peninsula in eastern China's Shandong province, according to a statement.

The joint venture vineyard will be developed with China International Trust and Investment Company (CITIC), a state-owned investment company.

"I am very pleased to develop a vineyard in a country where the interest in fine wines is increasing every year. It is particularly exciting to participate in the creation of an exceptional Chinese 'grand cru,'" Baron Eric de Rothschild said in the statement.

The Penglai peninsula was chosen as the site after a nationwide search because "it proved to be the most promising area to produce a great wine, in terms of both its climatic and geological conditions," the statement said.

The statement did not give financial figures for the joint venture.

Consumption of wine has surged in China along with that of other consumer goods as its economy has boomed in recent years.

The country became one of the global top ten wine consumers in 2005, but there remains a lot of potential for foreign labels as 95 percent of the wines now consumed are Chinese-made.

Photo ©Jim Barber

London-based travel writer, Graeme Green, is developing a TV series for the BBC and looking for UK based travellers to take part.

Graeme is looking to spend time with and film several different individuals, couples, families, friends or groups from the UK who, because of the recession, have decided to leave the country for a while and spend time abroad doing something bold, new and exciting.

Of particular interest are people choosing to go and do something constructive and life-changing that will set them off in a new direction in their lives and careers. For example:

• Learn new skills abroad to put toward setting up a new business, improve job prospects or launch a new career, e.g. learning scuba diving in order to become a marine conservationist.

• Get work experience or training abroad that will help you in your current field or in a new career.

• Set up a short-term business abroad – bike rental, diving school, bar/café/restaurant, bookshop...

• Set up a long-term business abroad, such as in tourism, ethical trade, arts and crafts, something different or unique...

• Do volunteering or charity work, with a view to working in the charity sector when returning to the UK.

• Work with animals, and looking to start/continue a career working with animals.

• Work on conservation projects (environment, wildlife, marine life...) with a view to starting a career in conservation.

• Work on sustainable energies, organics, farming and livestock, development...

• Set up green projects, eco ideas, ethical trade, and looking to continue working in this area...

• Set up artistic projects, art or performance groups...

• Any other constructive, life-changing projects or activities that you’re taking part in or setting up.

If you've got a journey/project/adventure starting in April, May or June that lasts around 2 to 4 months, and you're interested in taking part, get in touch with Graeme (gfgreen@hotmail.com). He's looking for a 100 word summary about your trip, including you name, age, where in the UK you're based, what your current/previous job is/was, and what your plan is in terms of life-changing recession-escaping activities abroad.

Photo Credit: Presenting by JanneM via Flickr (Creative Commons)

I was sent an email this morning asking for tips on travelling to the Sapa region in Vietnam. Sadly I've never been so deferred to a friend who went very recently and she came back with a goldmine of information. So good that it had to be shared!

So, here you go, the inside track on the stunning hill station of Sapa...

When to go to Sapa:

Avoid the winter months of January and February like the plague as the mountains are covered in fog making it impossible to see the surrounding area, which is the whole point of being there! April and May are meant to be good months as well as end of September and October. July and August is Sapa's rainy season so best avoided.

How to get to Sapa:

Fly into Hanoi and take the train up to Lao Cai, which is a nine hour overnight journey. On average there are three trains a night to Sapa departing from Hanoi station, so there are quite a few options to choose from.

If you are staying at the Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa, which is the best hotel in the area, then they have their own train which has a dining carriage and looks very comfortable. You can only book this if you are staying at the hotel.

The other option is the Fanxipan Express. This is a good and comfortable way to get to Sapa, although there's no dining carriage (the only train with a dining carriage on this route is the Victoria Express). There are four berths per carriage. If there are two of you travelling you will have to share with others unless you pay for all four berths to ensure privacy.

Pete Wilkes, Managing Director of Sapa Rooms, recommends the TSC train, the Livitrans train and the Hara train. He says these carriages all depart from Hanoi nightly between 7:30pm and 9:15pm, arriving in Lao Cai the following morning from 5:30am to 7:30am. These options are safe, secure, comfortable and clean, and come equipped with clean western toilets, air conditioning and lockable doors.

A four berth train ticket costs USD 37 per person one way and a two berth train ticket costs USD 85 per person one way.

Arriving in Sapa:

Once you arrive into Lao Cai there are people milling around to take you to Sapa which is about a 40 minute drive. Really watch out for touts and make sure that you buy your ticket from the driver once on the bus, otherwise you will end up paying over the odds.

Where to stay in Sapa:

Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa is a good hotel with swimming pool, spa and tennis court, as well as tour booking office on site. There is a restaurant and bar there (famous for its cheese fondue) so if you are looking to stay somewhere with all the comforts then I would recommend this, although the rates are a lot higher than anywhere else.

Tel: +84 43 9330318 (Speak to Ha – she is really helpful); Email: resa.sapa@victoriahotels.asia

Cha Pa Gardens is right in the centre of Sapa, by the market. It's very well located and a sweet place with just four decent sized rooms. The owner, Tommy, is married to a Vietnamese woman and they co-run it. Tommy can arrange for a local guide to take you on walks in the surrounding area, but as we were looking for a bit more depth to the tours and wanting to learn about the local culture, we ended up booking everything through the Victoria Sapa – but enjoy the lovely boutique style hotel.

Tel: +84 20 387 2907; Email: post@chapagarden.com; www.chapagarden.com

Sapa Rooms is the third recommended option. The hotel is run by Pete who was super helpful in sending through all the train options. He can book the train for you as well as all tours and activities. Sapa Rooms was closed when I went in January, but I walked past the hotel. It is right by the market and again in centre of town, but on the road and not set back like Cha Pa Gardens; I don’t think this would make any difference though and imagine service to be much better than at Cha Pa Gardens, which was a bit slack.

Tel: +84 (0)90 618 7883; Email: pete.wilkes@me.com / info@saparooms.com; www.saparooms.com

What to do in Sapa:

During the day, and if the weather is good, there is so much to do. There's lots of hiking, and although the trails can get quite busy with visitors we found a few treks that were less crowded. You are taken by local guides on these hikes, so also learn a lot about the local culture.

The top hikes are as follows. All of these hikes can be booked through Pete Wilkes at Sapa Rooms, who gives the profits back to the region's minority communities. All hikes can be customised to suit you, and his descriptions of them are as follows. Email pete.wilkes@me.com or call +84 (0)90 618 7883.

Cat Cat Village, 3km (difficulty - easy): This is the home of the H'mong minority tribe. During this hike you have the opportunity to meet and talk with locals to learn more about their daily life. There are many opportunities to purchase handicrafts direct from the local tribal community. The walk will take you to beautiful Cascade waterfall and the old French hydroelectric power station built over 100 years ago. You may choose to walk or catch a motorbike back to Sapa (2km). Cost: 180,000 VND per person.

Lao Chai and Tavan Villages (difficulty - medium): Walk along ancient buffalo trails between mountains and valleys and across rice paddies to arrive in the beautiful Lao Chai village. Along the way enjoy some of Vietnam's most breathtaking views of terraced rice fields. In Lao Chai village visit the H'mong people in their wooden and bamboo houses, experience daily life in the tribal villages which are set high in the mountains among pristine rice terraces and wild running rivers. Continue on to Tavan village home of the Day minority people. Meet the locals and pay a visit to the schools to distribute any gifts you may have brought from home. Here you will have many opportunities to purchase handicrafts direct from the local tribal community. Choose to return to Sapa on foot, jeep or motorbike. Cost: 420.000 VND per person includes lunch and your motorcycle ride.

Matra and Taphin villages (6 hours, 11km – includes home cooked lunch): First take either a jeep or motorbike ride 4km to visit the Black Hmong village of Matra which is set in a beautiful lush valley and famous for its picture perfect scenery. After this village, continue on the peaceful dirt road talking to locals until you reach the mountain village of Taphin - a traditional handy craft village and home to two different minorities; the Red Dzao and the Black H'mong. Have a picnic lunch in the village and take time to explore the village with your guide. Here there is an option to take a traditional Red Dzau hot bath with medicinal herbs. This is a great way to sooth tired muscles after trekking. Cost: 420,000 VND per person includes lunch and your motorcycle ride.

Ban Ho hot spring village (1 hour each way by jeep or motorbike, 4 hours trekking around Ban Ho village, includes home cooked lunch): If you want total isolation and dream of swimming in beautiful crystal clear rivers with local minority children surrounded by stunning scenery then this is the trek for you. Truly unforgettable, Ban Ho Village is worth the one hour jeep or motor bike journey to get there, as the village rewards visitors with stunning views and opportunities to discover the daily life of the ethnic Tay people. The trails and roads from Ban Ho also lead to the quiet Red Dao Village of Nam Toong and other ethnic communities, where you can enjoy the best of Northern Vietnam, such as deep valleys, amazing mountains and the friendliest people you can imagine. Cost: 650,000 VND per person, includes lunch and jeep or motorbike ride.

If you are going for longer than a weekend you may want to climb Fanxipan – any of the hotels can help arrange this for you.

Where to eat in Sapa:

There are some dodgy places and a few great ones; unfortunately we missed out on some as they were closed when we were there. My favourite, which is highly recommended, is Le Gecko. It is run by a great guy called Frederic. There is a pool table there, a terrace for eating outside, and if it's cold there is an open fire to sit next to inside. I recommend the mushroom pasta!

For more information about Vietnam, click here.

Photo Credits: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. All via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Harriet Torry

Valencia, the regional capital of the Comunidad Valenciana (Valencia region) is probably best known for its oranges, tomato throwing festival (in nearby Buñol) and sailing. Not to be overlooked though are the city's buzzing culinary scene and its diverse Christian / Muslim heritage.

Eating and Drinking

The menu del día at Espita Gorgorita is excellent and, at 12 euros, good value for money. Great croquetas. The restaurant has trendy decoration, helpful staff and pavement tables overlooking the Plaza Tossal – a good place for people-watching.

Espita Gorgorita, Plaza San Jaime 3, 46001 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 925 835

Casa Mario was best restaurant I visited in Valencia. Fresh, regional dishes, excellent tapas - especially the asparagus a la plancha (griddled asparagus) - and the staff were friendly and knowledgeable about wine. Highly recommended, and popular.

Casa Mario, Calle Roteros 3, 46003, Valencia; Tel: +34 963 92 44 52

La Marcelina is a good paella restaurant on the Paseo Neptuno waterfront. The décor is a bit 1980s and, in typical Spanish style, it's got bright lighting and uncomfortable chairs, but the food makes it worth it.

La Marcelina, Paseo de Neptuno 8, 46011, Valencia; Tel: +34 963 712 025

Vivir sin Dormir is a trendy bar / restaurant just up the beach from La Marcelina.

Vivir Sin Dormir, Paseo de Neptuno 42, 46011 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 727 777; Fax: +34 963 559 275; www.vivirsindormir.com

The guide books lavish praise on Bar Pilar, but I was underwhelmed. I didn't try their famous mussels, but I thought the bean tapas was overcooked, and the squid too chewy. The staff weren't very welcoming, and they forgot part of my order.

Bar Pilar, Calle Moro Zeit 13, Valencia

Culture

When your feet are weary from sightseeing, you can catch a movie in its original English version at the Babel or Albatros cinemas . The Albatros cinema is a bit out of the way on Fray Luis Colomer 4, but only a five euro taxi ride from the city centre.

There are two works by Diego Velazquez in the Museo de Bellas Artes - a self-portrait and eerie monk lying in state - which makes the trip alone worth it. There are also works by Goya, Jose de Ribera and van Dyck, and a lovely courtyard.

Museo De Bellas Artes De Valencia, Calle San Pío V nº 9, 46010 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 870 300; Fax: +34 963 870 301; www.cult.gva.es

The IVAM (Institut Valencià d'Art Modern) is a snazzy building with interesting temporary exhibitions. If you don't have time to see the City of Arts and Sciences, then this is a good place to check out some modern Valencian architecture.

IVAM, Calle Guillem De Castro 118, 46003 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 863 000; Fax: +34 963 921 094; www.ivam.es

The Botanical Garden (entrance 1 euro) is an oasis in the heart of the city. It was originally conceived as a medicinal herbal garden for the university, and now it's also a very peaceful place to hang out.

Jardí Botànic (Botanical Garden), Calle de Quart 80, 46008 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 15 68 00; Fax: +34 963 15 68 26; www.jardibotanic.org

All images by Harriet Torry

Everyone has a Paris that they fantasise about. Some dream of dining in candlelit bistros, others hanker after markets heaving with cheeses and warm baguettes, perhaps you imagine getting lost in a maze of old streets, stumbling upon delicious patisseries and hidden courtyards.

The sad truth is that whatever your particular Paris fantasy is, it's hard to find in reality. The City of Lights is a big and busy capital: tourists swarm, noses in guidebooks, from The Louvre to the Musée d'Orsay to the Eiffel Tower to the Champs Elysees to Montmartre. Getting off the beaten track is no mean feat. Many of the city's rarest treats are almost impossible to find, eluding even the most avid of guidebook writers behind unassuming doors.

So, what if for €175, less than the cost of a pair of Parisian Louboutins, you could find your fantasy? Richard Nahem, a native New Yorker, has been living in Paris for three years with one mission: to show people the city he loves and the one that tourists seldom see. From the moment he made the move to France he was inundated with requests from friends and acquaintances to show people the "real" Paris and now he's made a business of it, Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which dovetails with the places that he features on his blog Eye Prefer Paris.

Richard's tours cater to a maximum of 6ish people so you're guaranteed a personalised experience. Based on clients' interests tours take a specific theme – e.g. shopping, markets and gourmet food, architecture and culture. Standard tours (€175) last three hours, those looking for more can extend to a full day, three days or a week if needs be.

Most tours centre on the Marais district, Richard's home and area of expertise, which spreads across the third and fourth arrondissements. Le Marais is one of Paris's most impressive areas, packed with 16th and 17th century private mansions, secret courtyards, neighbourhood restaurants, outstanding patisseries and traditional ateliers. Unless you know where they are however they all too easy to miss, chances are you'll be swallowed up instead by the tourists who flock to the district's famous gay bars and kosher restaurants.

Richard describes the perfect three hours in Paris as exploring the Place des Vosges (the oldest square in the city, dating back to 1605); stopping for a coffee and a pastry at one of the best patisseries in town; visiting a chocolate shop where you can buy all the chocolate sculptures you could ever dream of; uncovering a secret garden where wild roses grow unchecked; soaking up impressive 16th and 17th century architecture and exploring former private mansions.

Food lovers can look forward to Paris's Bastille food market (the city's biggest), gourmet food shops and the inside scoop on where to eat. Die-hard shoppers will feel lightheaded at the prospect of speciality shops, exclusive to Paris, where you can pick up organic cosmetics, stashes of handcrafted jewellery, piles of pashminas and Parisian couture. Culture vultures can sate themselves on Richard's expert knowledge of the history behind the city's streets, buildings and gardens.

As Richard puts it, "I'm here to fulfil peoples' Paris fantasy" - everyone dreams about Paris and whether your version includes ateliers and authentic restaurants or palaces and patisseries, Richard's goal is to find you exactly what you've been looking for.

For more information on Richard's tours and to contact him please visit Eye Prefer Paris Tours.

The Polish capital, Warsaw, has beaten big hitters New York and London in a survey by the Post Office to find the best value cultural destination.

The Guardian reports that Warsaw was judged cheapest out of a list of 10 world cities for a three-day trip visiting museums, galleries and heritage sites.

A three-day cultural visit to Warsaw costs around £75. By contrast, cultural visit to London, the most expensive city according to the survey, would cost around £308.

Warsaw's cultural highlights include the Warsaw Uprising Exhibition, the Zacheta National Gallery of Art, Wilanow Palace and the Old Town Square.

The survey results at a glance:

1. Warsaw £75.28
2. Prague £103.52
3. Lisbon £108.15
4. Amsterdam £165.53
5. Rome £208.80
6. Berlin £210.86
7. Paris £246.22
8. Barcelona £259.31
9. New York £260.64
10. London £308.30

As a cultural visit to Warsaw is so light on the wallet we recommend splashing out on one of these top notch hotels:

Le Meridien Bristol, Warsaw: A "beautifully restored Art Nouveau landmark with a remarkable pedigree, near the Old Town"

The Westin Warsaw: A "rocket launch-pad of a hotel in the centre of Warsaw"

20050611 28 Warszawa by Logofag via Flickr (Creative Commons)