By Christina Newberry

On Isla Mujeres, a small island off the coast of Cancun, there are a surprising number of top-notch restaurants. Foodies can dig into homemade pasta, impossibly fresh ceviche, inventive fusion fare, and, of course, mouth-watering Mexican standards cooked with love by grandmothers and church ladies, at taco stands and in the town square.

But the best dinner in town is not in a restaurant as such. Instead, it’s hidden away in a quiet courtyard, where Lolo Lorena, a Belgian national who’s lived on the island so long she’s considered a local, hosts guests for sumptuous five-course feasts at a shared table in the supper-club style that’s sweeping major cities.

On this tiny island, you don’t have to know a secret handshake or have an “in” to get a seat at this most coveted table – though you do have to book in advance (by November, Valentine’s Day is sold out). You just have to give Lolo a call.

What makes Lolo’s table special is the feeling that one is not a customer, but a guest. Chatting through a three-hour meal with up to 15 strangers in Lolo’s courtyard decked with fairy lights, exotic plants, and treasured items from her travels around the world is a way to make quick island friends.

The night I find myself at Lolo’s, there are 13 of us at the table: six Canadians, five Americans, and two Brits. What we all have in common is a love of Isla Mujeres, and a sense of excitement about the food we are about to consume. With two options for each course, no one is disappointed. Lolo has even created a special menu for me, a vegetarian. After weeks of Mexican rice and black beans, I am treated to rich flavors in a custom green bean, tomato, potato appetizer, three exquisite gnocchi (served with a tiny fork), tart and spicy Thai salad, and vegetable terrine, while others feast on lobster tail and crab legs, or decadent moussaka. For dessert, an embarrassment of riches: sorbet, candied nuts, an apple tart, meringue with cream and, for each of us, a delicate lollipop, made of a hard-candy-coated fresh grape.

As each course emerges from Lolo’s tiny kitchen, the conversation stops for a moment as the group oohs and ahhs in unison. Then, as each person takes a first tiny bite, the looks of shared pleasure cross the table, everyone smiles, and we dig in.

If you go: Lolo Lorena’s courtyard supper table is located on Rueda Medina on Isla Mujeres. It can be a bit tricky to find from the downtown tourist area, but you’ll need to contact Lolo to book your reservation, and she can give you detailed directions. You can reach Lolo by e-mail at lololorena@hotmail.com, and find her online at lololorena.com. Five-course meals are $30USD-$40USD per person (yes, really, for five courses!). To-die-for mojitos are $5, and you can bring your own wine.

By Christina Newberry

When you're travelling, especially if you're in a place where you don't speak the language very well, it can be difficult to find "authentic" places to eat – spots where you might actually see a local (and pay local prices). But on a recent trip to Mexico, I discovered an easy way to get a taste of cheap, local fare – check out the town square.

In the evenings, the town square in Isla Mujeres is a local gathering place. Framed by the local church, a basketball court, and the supermarket, it's the hub of activity, especially on Saturday evenings. Once dusk falls, the vendors emerge, selling food of every variety – some made right on the spot, and some carefully transported from home kitchens. We decided we had to make a meal of their creations.

After whetting our appetites with fresh-made tacos and Mexican-style corn on the cob, we approached a cart where a couple was hard at work. The woman was working dough with her hands and cooking it in oil while her husband, in a carnival-barker voice, called patrons over to have a look. We approached, and asked the man in our limited Spanish what his wife was making.

He answered in English: "Cheese and banana." This sounded like a decidedly un-Mexican dish, and a peculiar combination. Plus, we saw no sign of any bananas on or near the cart. I asked again, just to confirm that I'd heard correctly: "Cheese and banana?"

The man nodded vigorously: "Si, cheese and banana." Well, we figured, we might as well give it a try. For 10 pesos (about US$1), how could we go wrong? We gave the man our coins, and he handed over one of the hot, doughy creations. I took a bite. There was cheese, yes, but definitely no banana. Puzzled, but loving whatever it was we were eating, we gobbled up our gooey treat. As I took the last bite, I finally realized what it was, and what the vendor had really been saying: Not cheese and banana, but cheese empanada!

We rounded out that night's enormous meal with sweet Mexican bread and deep-fried bananas with cream. It wasn't exactly a health-conscious meal, but it was local, delicious, and cheap – the grand total for two: $6. Rubbing our bellies contentedly, we walked home along the seawall. The next night, of course, we went back to the square – this time for churros and homemade flan.

If you try it:
Most street food items (from tacos, to flan, to those tasty empanadas) go for 10 to 20 pesos, depending on the size of the serving and how many tourists frequent the area (more tourists = higher prices). The servings look small, but they’re filling. If you want to try more than a few items, plan to share.

Photo Credits: "Real Deal Taco Stand" by JBlaze B; "Making Empanadas" by Chiot's Run; "Empanada" by bunnicula. All via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Tapeo, the custom of moving from one tapas bar to another, is now just as feasible in London as Barcelona thanks to the city's hot tapas spots.

So if you're in London and fancy a dose of Spain's finest, then check out these top tapas bars as recommended by experts in The Week. Take along the map we've put together below to make your tapeo experience even more convenient.

Barrafina: 54 Frith Street, London W1 (020 7813 8016)
Squaremeal.co.uk calls Barrafina the "best place for tapas this side of Barcelona." Don't miss the creamy ham croquetas, cured meats and shellfish cooked a la plancha (on the grill). Around £46 a head (go early or late to avoid queuing).

Tierra Brindisa: 46 Broadwick Street, London W1 (020 7534 1690)
Small and sleek, and a great place to get prawns cooked with garlic and chilli, "meltingly tender" filet steak, and the Torta de Barros cheese on toast. Around £36 a head, including wine and service.

Dehesa: 25 Ganton Street, London W1 (020 7494 4170)
An "informal yet sophisticated Spanish-Italian tapas bar," according to Time Out. Opt for grilled squid with chickpeas, chorizo and mint for "comfort cooking at its most vibrant". Around £36 a head, including wine and service.

Cigala: 54 Lamb's Conduit Street, London WC1 (020 7405 1717)
Harden's reviewers rave about Cigala's "substantial and tasty" Spanish dishes, "good choice of wines" and "welcoming" service. The experts recommend cured meats from Teruel and Extremadura, marinated anchovies and chicken livers fried with onions and sherry. Around £44 a head, including wine and service.

Barrica Tapas Bar: 62 Goodge Street, London W1 (020 7436 9448)
Time Out recommends Barrica to people who "like great Spanish wines and good food". Sound like a winning combination to us! Featuring classic dishes from across Spain, the cured meats are a particular hit. Around £31 a head, including wine and service.

Salt Yard: 54 Goodge Street, London W1 (020 7637 0657)
The London Evening Standard calls Salt Yard relaxed and "intimate" and close to "culinary heaven". Try the acorn-fed jamón ibérico, and the courgette flowers stuffed with Monte Enebro cheese. Dinner around £33 a head, including wine and service.

View Tapas Bars in London in a larger map

Photo Credit: iStockPhoto.com.

The gastropub phenomenon has inspired very mixed feelings amongst Brits. Some think it has reinvigorated pub culture and dining, whilst others believe it has stripped traditional boozers of their unique character.

One recent restoration that has been lovingly undertaken is that of The Orange on London's Pimlico Road. A year ago The Orange was a bit of a dark old flea pit; granted, it was atmospheric, but it was beloved of old timers who would sit embracing a pint for hours on end. Now it heaves with Chelsea's smart young things and you have to book in advance to guarantee a table in one of the bright and airy dining rooms.

The food at The Orange is simple and delicious. The wood fired pizzas are fantastically thin and crispy with delicious toppings such as spiced salami with artichokes and mushrooms, and torn chicken with pancetta, sage and pecorino. Salads are generous and come bursting with scrumptious ingredients. There is also a good selection of mains such as rib-eye steak, slow cooked shoulder of pork and herb crusted salmon.

Part of the restoration at The Orange included adding four simple and chic boutique bedrooms. Rates start at £155 + VAT per night, but that doesn't include breakfast. If you get well and truly stuck in of an evening it's good to know that you don't necessarily have to schlep home!

The Orange
37 Pimlico Road, London, SW1W 8NE; Tel: +44 207 881 9844; Web: www.theorange.co.uk; Opening Hours: Monday – Thursday 8am to 11.30pm; Friday & Saturday 8am to Midnight; Sunday 8am to 10.30pm.

Photo Credits: Exterior shot by Emma Torry; Food shot via www.theorange.co.uk.

In Saturday's How to Spend It magazine award winning writer, Margaret Atwood, shares the ingredients for her perfect weekend in Toronto, Canada.

According to Atwood, winter visitors to Toronto should check out snow-tubing in Horseshoe Valley, winter birding, and forest walks in places such as Sir Winston Churchill Park and Leslie Hill Split.

For lunch in Toronto you should check out Live (264 Dupont St), which does great vegetarian food; Cantine (13 Avenue Rd), for a superlative bowl of soup; or Le Sélect (432 Wellington St West), a good weekend lunch spot serving up French bistro food (pictured below).

If you want some good dinner options you should look into Take Sushi (22 Front St West), for good Japanese and 93 Harbord (93 Harbord St) for Middle Eastern cuisine - both come highly recommended by Atwood.

L'Espresso Bar Mercurio (321 Bloor St West) is a favourite coffee place, right across the street from Toronto's Shoe Museum.

If you're up for a swanky night out in Toronto, Atwood suggests the new opera house (735 Queen St East), "the auditorium rests like an egg inside the building on huge, rubber elephant legs. The sound is excellent."

• Live: 264 Dupont St (North East corner of Dupont and Spadina), Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5R 1V7; Tel: +1 416 515 2002; Web: www.livefoodbar.com.
  
• Cantine: 13 Avenue Rd, Toronto, Ontario M5R 2H6; Tel: +1 416 923 4822; Web: www.cantine.ca.
  
• Le Sélect: 432 Wellington Street West, Toronto M5V 1E3; Tel: +1 416 596 6405; Web: www.leselect.com.
  
• Take Sushi: 22 Front Street West, Toronto, ON M5J 1C4, Canada; Tel: +1 416 862 1891; Web: www.takesushi.ca.
  
• 93 Harbord: 93 Harbord Street, Toronto, Ontario, M5S 1G4; Tel: +1 416 922 5914; Web: www.93harbord.com.
  
• L'Espresso Bar Mercurio: 321 Bloor Street West, Toronto, ON, M5S 1S5 (southeast corner of Bloor & St. George); Tel: +1 416 585 2233; Web: www.lespressobarmercurio.com.
  
• The Opera House, Toronto: 735 Queen Street East, Toronto, ON M4M 1H1, Canada; Tel: +1 416 466 0313; Web: www.theoperahousetoronto.com.

To read the full article visit www.howtospendit.com.

Photo Credits: Snow tubing by DrewOtt; Le Sélect via www.leselect.com.

By Helena Iveson

Ah, Venice. The city which has enough romance and magic to entrance even the most hard bitten of tourists, travel fiends who've been around the block more times than you've had hot dinners. But while mind-blowing beauty is on every calle corner, tourists whom are entranced by anything served up at the city's notoriously bad and pricey restaurants are rarer than a cheerful gondolier.

Then Il Ridotto opened on the lively Campo SS. Filippo, and Venice-bound gourmets now have a dining destination that is as much an attraction as the churches and grand squares. If you're organised enough to book way ahead at this intimate and stylish restaurant run by Gianni Bonaccorsi (there are just 6 tables), you'll enjoy Venetian art on your plate.

The chef personally welcomes you to his pared-back refuge from the crowds and visits each table to explain the menu which changes daily, depending on what he found at the city's Rialto Market. After an amuse-bouche of a perfectly plump prawn on a bed of truffled mashed potato, the first course arrived without any fuss, and when we tasted the fabulously rich homemade tagliolini with a surprisingly light Fassone beef ragu, the fireworks began. The secondo (which incidentally is the same size as the first so pace yourself) was squid stuffed with scampi and prawns in a clam sauce and was as colourful as a Venetian carnival mask.

For dessert, the deliciousness of the chocolate tart with its oozing soft centre kept us digging in, even though we were as stuffed as the squid, and after that it was a pleasure to sit back at our table by the window and sit, Murano glass in hand, and have an unobstructed view of the kitchen at work. It was just Bonaccorsi and a younger apprentice, and there was no Gordon Ramsey-style theatrics, but instead a calmness and creativity at play that set the tone for the rest of the restaurant. Our bill for two was €100 with half a bottle of wine: for Venice and for this quality, that was a bargain.

Il Ridotto
4509 Castello, Campo SS Fillippo, Venice, Italy 30122; Tel: +39 041 520 8280; Web: www.ilridotto.com.

Photo Credits: Venetian Gondolas via iStockPhoto.com, Il Ridotto via www.ilridotto.com.

By Helena Iveson

"This is the Roman way, don't worry," Italian chef Daniela del Balzo said cheerfully, as she reversed her Fiat 500 the wrong way up a one-way street. Not that she could really see out of the window anyway, as the boot was full of delicious goodies that we were taking back to her stylish apartment in a ritzy area on Aventine Hill near the Colosseum to cook for lunch.

Daniela's irreverent charm made the time we spent with her, learning to buy and cook as real Romans do, the highlight of a recent trip to Rome. We'd just spent an hour in Testaccio Market, where generations of Italians have gone to shop since it opened in the 1800s, sniffing, tasting and elbowing the weak out the way to get the freshest and most perfect food possible.

The neighbourhood is a working-class stronghold known as Rome's stomach – it is here that you would have once found the city's slaughterhouses, but they've been closed down and transformed into chi-chi art galleries and apartments as the area undergoes galloping gentrification. Daniela explained that she'd recently taken celebrity chef Gary Rhodes around the market and he'd been poking and prodding the produce just like any good Roman housewife.

The market's 50 or so stalls include the freshest glistening fish on display at a fishmongers that proudly displays a picture of Italian legend Marcello Mastroianni, the stall holder's cousin; picture-perfect fruit and vegetables such as shredded chicory and ready-trimmed artichokes that looked as though they were dug out the ground that morning; plus one of the best selections of cheese, ham and meat that you will find in all of Italy.

After lugging our bags into Daniela's apartment, over espresso and biscotti and with Italian opera on in the background, she talked us through the menu which included both local and Neapolitan dishes from her hometown.

While Daniela poured us a generous glass of prosecco, we made some snacks to get us in the mood: bruschetta and prunes wrapped in bacon, a rich courgette frittata and slices of Bresaola topped with ricotta cheese and arugula. Daniela encouraged us to taste, seasoning and pouring on extra-virgin olive oil at will, which had been made from groves at her family's holiday home in Abruzzo. Then we started on our pasta course of fettuccine with artichokes and pasta with Broccolo Romano. The thought of the last dish did make my heart sink as the vegetable was described as a combination of broccoli and cauliflower which aren't exactly must-orders for me, but once it was braised with anchovies and made creamy with pecorino, I could have licked the bowl.

Our main course was Involtini alla Romana, strips of veal rolled up with prosciutto and celery and braised in a white wine and marjoram sauce. Oh, and tiramisu to finish, followed by more coffee, biscotti and chocolates. Or at least I think that's where we finished, as Daniela generously topped up our wine whenever we weren't looking.

After we bade farewell, with heartfelt kisses and thanks and promises to come again, we walked - or rather staggered - down Aventine Hill armed with our recipes, feeling like we didn't need to eat again until we next returned to Rome.

Testaccio Market is open everyday bar Sunday from 6.30am – 2pm.
For more details of Daniela's Cookery School contact Context Travel (www.contexttravel.com).

Iconic British handbag designer, Lulu Guinness, is being honoured at the Metropolitan hotel in London from 15th - 27th February with an afternoon tea inspired by her Autumn / Winter 2010 collection, "Kiss and Make Up".

Guests can look forward to lipstick cookies, make-up palette chocolate cake, and low-fat (fashionistas don't do fat afterall) cupcakes decorated with Lulu's famous lips and Pollyanna bags.

An even more delicious offer, for fashion-hungry travellers to London, is that everyone who has the "Lulu Tea" will receive 15% off all products in the Lulu Guinness Ellis Street store in SW1.

We like the look of this travel inspired canvas handbag (£225) as a super-chic hand baggage option.

The Lulu tea is available in the Met Bar from Monday 15th - Saturday 17th February 2010, from 3pm - 6pm. Price £25 per person. Reservations must be made in advance on +44 (0)20 7447 4757.

Metropolitan Hotel, London: Old Park Lane, London, W1K 1LB; Tel: +44 (0)20 7447 1000.

Lulu Guinness, Ellis Street: 3 Ellis Street, London, SW1X 9AL; Tel: +44 (0)207 823 4828.

London seems to have gone Lebanese food crazy. Since the last time I was in the UK's capital all sorts of mezze and falafel places have cropped up, notably a new chain called LebanEats, which seems to have outlets everywhere.

If you're after the seriously good stuff though you should head straight to Comptoir Libanais on Wigmore Street. There are other branches across the city, but this is the most centrally located.

Queue up at the deli counter for takeaway wraps, mezze, salads, tagines and drinks, or grab a table and settle in. The mezze platter to share - with hommous, tabbouleh, baba ghanuj, falafel, spinach fatayer, pickles and pitta - is a bargain for two at £9.50. The wraps, especially the falafel and the super garlicky chicken taouk, are less wallet friendly at £4.50, but also delicious. Highly recommended is the fab halloumi salad, which comes with all the usual trimmings and costs £5.50. Apparently you have to try the prawn falafel (£3.50) too, although sadly I didn't have the room.

If you're in need of a pitstop post-Selfridges shopping spree, or you want cheap eats before catching a concert at the Wigmore Hall then Comptoir Libanais is a great place. You can bring your own wine too and they won't charge corkage.

Comptoir Libanais, 65 Wigmore Street, London W1U 1PZ; Tel: +44 (0)20 7935 1110. For details of other locations please visit lecomptoir.co.uk.

Image via Comptoir Libanais on Facebook.

By Christina Newberry

Old Havana in the rain is an amazing place to be. After two weeks in Cuba, in the hottest weather I have ever known, the rains came. We were on our way to dinner, looking for a place that had been recommended to us, one of Havana's many paladares—family-run, home-based restaurants—which are often unmarked and known only by word of mouth.

Our taxi driver, of course, had never heard of the place we were looking for, so he dropped us off somewhere in the middle of Old Havana and left us to find our way. We had been wandering without luck for about ten minutes when the clouds broke. Within seconds the rain was coming down in sheets and we were soaked to the skin. The streets quickly emptied as locals sought shelter in their homes, and the few tourists who were in the area took refuge under whatever cover they could find.

Our refuge was a tunnel where a road went under a raised apartment building. In the tunnel there was a group of young boys playing a kind of handball. They seemed oblivious to the rain, playing and shouting for the ball or score, plunging through the large puddle forming in the middle of the road as we stayed close to the raised edges of the tunnel in an attempt to keep our shoes dry.

Watching the boys, we realised our own foolishness in hiding from the warm rain, and we emerged from our hideaway back into the near-deserted streets of Havana. We found the street where we had been told the paladar was located. We walked up and down the block three times before we noticed a young woman sitting on the side of the road. We asked her if she knew of the place, and she stood up and yelled up at the window above. A man upstairs threw down a key: we had found our paladar.

We had an enormous and wonderful meal in the upstairs room that was covered but had open walls through which we watched and heard the rain. The huge and beautiful rooster that lived in the upstairs courtyard kept his eye on the weather as well. By the time we had finished our meal and paid the small bill, the rain had stopped. It stopped as suddenly as it had come, and we arrived back at our apartment happy and dry. My memories of Cuba will stay with me forever, and I will always be grateful that I chanced to experience Old Havana in the rain.

For more information about paladares in Havana visit these websites:

• cuba-junky.com
  
• havana-guide.com
  
• havanajournal.com

Photo Credits: "Lluvia" by javiekitela; "Domesticity in Old Havana" by peamasher; "paladar la guarida" by bruna benvegnù. All images via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Harriet Torry

Tucked between the skyscrapers of Manhattan's Midtown sits a brownstone building that, during the Prohibition era, was an outlawed speakeasy. Today, it's '21' Club: a celebrated bar and restaurant. But the cheeky speakeasy vibe lingers from 1930, the year '21' opened, and comes across the moment you cross under the jockey statues awning the entrance. This is a place that mixes gourmet dining with soul.

The 'old New York' location is historic too, and the staff are charming. Although it's a high-end restaurant, wood-panelled with red leather seating, the atmosphere is friendly and fun without a hint of pretension. The clientèle is also a mix: from celebrities, to groups of executives, to couples and families.

'21' Club has a heavyweight history: as well as countless celebrity guests, it has been featured in more movies than any other New York restaurant, from Wall Street to an episode of Sex and the City.

The menu strongly favours East Coast cuisine such as Maine Lobster, Vermont Lamb and soft shell crab. There are also the classics like the 21 burger, shrimp cocktail and steaks.

'We try to stay "true American"', says head chef John Greeley. 'That's a bit of everything: East Coast, Southern and Low Country cooking, New England... We use local products, follow the seasons and don't like to ship proteins far. That way they're ultra fresh, the vegetables too.'

At 21, there's both the main restaurant, the Bar Room, and a lounge for drinks and light bites like burgers and crab cake, with a wine list of young reds and whites. The wine list in the Bar Room is vast and justly won the Wine Spectator Grand Award in 2008.

I went for the tasting menu to see what 21 Club has to offer. It started off well with an exquisitely fresh tomato gazpacho, creatively jazzed-up with poached shrimp. Next came chilled Maine lobster on a light asparagus terrine. It was complemented elegantly with a glass of Albariño Burgans.

After the soft shell crabs, and in keeping with the season, came sautéed Halibut with roasted oysters. The Halibut was as tender as the summer day is long. It came on a bed of corn and very smoky bacon.

The main courses rounded off with a fine filet of beef. Desserts started with the chef's fruit soup and blackberry sorbet. Then came the tasting menu's apex of indulgence: Manjari Bombe with a hazelnut brûlée centre and chocolate ice cream. It tasted as good as it sounds, and was even decorated with edible gold leaf. A glass of raisiny Madeira Bual Cossart-Gordon and petit fours brought the intricate desserts to a rounded close.

21's tasting menu of seven courses costs US$90, or US$150 with specially chosen wines. Most of the main courses on the à la carte menu cost around US$40, but until October 31st the restaurant is offering a three-course, recession-crushing set menu that costs US$24.07 for lunch and US$35 for dinner.

I asked the head chef what an international traveller with one night in New York should try from the menu. 'I would order the mixed grill because it showcases American game', says Greeley. 'And a steak because most European beef is grass-fed and leaner. Ours, being corn fed and aged, has a unique flavor and richness. As regards seafood, the halibut with razor clams, because you don't see either too often outside the States.'

At '21' Club - an intimate space with friendly yet polished service - American cuisine, American ingredients and American charm provide the quintessential New York experience.

'21' Club, 21 West 52nd Street, New York, New York 10019; Tel: +1 (800) 721 CLUB; Web: www.21club.com.

For opening hours and dress code, please check the website.

Photos courtesy of Orient-Express.

Heading to London this month or next and itching to know what's cool in the UK capital? You've come to the right place.

The all-knowing concierge team from Claridges, the Connaught and the Berkeley, aka "the city's best-informed residents", share their advice on what to do and where to go if you're planning a trip to London.

AUGUST

Drink...

Tini: The latest venture from the team behind Whisky Mist, Mahiki and the Punchbowl is glamorous cocktail bar Tini in the ever chic South Kensington. Just a stones throw away from Boujis and Mamilanji, this new haunt should prove just as popular with the social elite.

Tini, 87-89 Walton Street, South Kensington, London, SW3 2HP: +44 (0)20 7589 8558.

Eat...

Lutyens: This summer Sir Terence Conran proves once again that he is a master of the dining room-come-bar-come-members club. Hot on the heals of his last opening, the Boundary in Shoreditch, the wily old fox has done it again with this sublime spot on Fleet Street. You'd better book now because this one could be popular: classic French cuisine with a dash of Irish flair.

Lutyens, 85 Fleet Street, London, EC4Y 1AE; +44 (0)20 7583 8385.

Party...

Michael Jackson Tribute Concert: Following the tragic passing of Michael Jackson the Tribute Concert will be going ahead at London's O2 Arena on Saturday 29th August. Who will be performing? Well that is a closely guarded secret, however I can assure you it is going to be huge! Email me if you want tickets on cbogni@the-connaught.co.uk

SEPTEMBER

Eat...

Terroirs: At first glance, Terroirs seems like just another conventional attempt to transplant a traditional French bistro to the mean streets of central London. But look beyond the old advertising posters and wooden chairs, and you realise that there's something rather special going on here. The reasonably priced food combines creativity with a respect for full-on flavours and impeccable sourcing. Oh, and the wine is ok too!

Terroirs, 5 William IV Street WC2N 4DW; +44 (0)20 7036 0660.

Chill...

Spa Illuminata: Stressed? Worn out? Just need a little bit of pampering? This is quite simply the best day spa in London. Whether it's a manicure or a full body scrub you will be treated like royalty in this temple to relaxation.

Spa Illuminata, 63 South Audley Street, London, W1K 2QS; +44 (0)20 7499 7777.

Look...

Jeff Koons at the Serpentine: Inflatable toys? Check. Popeye? Check. Baffeling kitch? Check. The New York native and enfant terrible of the art world has bought this blockbuster exhibition to London. September 13th is the last day, so catch this one while you can.

Serpentine Gallery, Kensington Gardens, London, W2 3XA; +44 (0)20 7402 6075.

Luxury London hotels Claridge's, the Connaught, and the Berkeley are part of the Maybourne Hotel Group. For more information visit www.maybourne.com.

Photo Credits: Lutyens courtesy of Lutyens Restaurant, Bar & Cellar Rooms; Terroirs by Ewan-M, Jeff Coons Popeye Series by Chris Pattison.

For fab Portuguese food in Macau - and a whiff of former times in this small S.A.R - look no further than the institution that is Restaurante Fernando.

The eponymous owner has been serving up home-style cooking at his rustic, low-key restaurant for over 15 years. Not only is the food well worth coming for, but Fernado's location - in a corner of sleepy Coloane island - will give you a taste of a completely different Macau from the whirl of construction and bright lights on the Cotai Strip.

Fernando's laid-back attitude extends to its reservation policy: you can't book. If you're planning a visit over the weekend or on a public holiday arrive before 12:30pm or you'll have to wait in a long queue of hungry diners; Fernando's is unrelentingly popular.

If you end up having to wait, it's worth it, as the food is excellent. Grilled garlicky gambas, succulent roast chicken, juicy tomato salad, delicious clams, bread that homesick Europeans will go weak at the knees over, and so the list goes on. Prices are very reasonable, expect to pay about HKD 200 per person for more food than you can manage and a stream of beer, wine and sangria.

If miraculously you do save some space, Lord Stow's Bakery - another Macanese institution - is just around the corner in Coloane Main Square. The bakery's Portuguese-style egg tarts have a cult following that stretches way beyond Coloane's shores.

Restaurante Fernando, Praia de Hac Sa No. 9, Coloane, Macau; Tel: +853 2888 2264.

Lord Stow's Bakery, 1 Rua da Tassara, Coloane Town Square, Macau; Tel: +853 2888 2534; www.lordstow.com.

Check us out over at WanderFood Wednesday.

By Helena Iveson

Canberra might be Australia's capital city but it doesn't exactly top a list of the country's must-do destinations. While both Aussies and tourists can be unfairly beastly about the place, locals say stuff 'em – and that means there's more chance of a table at Silo, Canberra's best bakery and café bar none.

Everyday there's a queue of hungry Canberrians outside the whitewashed walled café in the cosmopolitan suburb of Kingston, including a smattering of famous media types and often a buffed up member of the Brumbies Rugby union team who play nearby, waiting to take away some of Silo's delectable artisan style bread and pastries - try the blackcurrant and Cabernet tart if it hasn't sold out.

Silo's walk-in cheese room at the back of the café is the place for any fan of the hard stuff (or washed-rind varieties, or soft cheeses) to feast their eyes upon.

If it's still morning, queue for one of their tables and settle down for a fabulous brunch. The menu (served before 11.30am only – show up at 11.31am and you'll be dismissed with a curt shrug) is full of delicious treats, but I find it impossible to go past the belt-busting Basque piperade with grilled chorizo - though the chilli jam on fried eggs and tomatoes has me cursing that I don't have two stomachs. One of these choices plus a flat white coffee is a legendary way to start the day, though be warned: Silo's staff are renowned for their breathtaking rudeness. But grit your teeth and ignore them as the food is so good, even this Miss Manners will come back for more.

Open Tuesday to Saturday 7am – 4pm.

36 Giles Street, Kingston, Canberra, ACT 2604, Australia; Tel: +61 (0)2 6260 6060; Web: www.silobakery.com.au.

Check us out over at WanderFood Wednesday.

By Andy Hayes

Visitors to England often spend most or all of their time in London and its surrounding villages and countryside, overlooking some of the more intriguing cities of the North, such as Manchester, which is experiencing a cultural boom. Here are just a few of the best things to see and do during a stay in Manchester, whether your trip is a quick weekend break or a longer stay.

WALK AND SEE MANCHESTER

Manchester's city centre has been transformed in recent years to entice locals to live and work in the area, so now you'll find art galleries, museums, shopping, and restaurants all within easy reach. Manchester's centre also provides access to the canal network, formerly the backbone of the city's industrial heritage but now a walker's haven with many workers using the route as a stress-free commute.

Don't miss stops such as the Manchester Cathedral, Manchester Town Hall - one of the most important Victorian buildings in England - and The Manchester Wheel. If you get tired of walking you can be anywhere in Manchester quickly with the easy-to-use tram and bus system.

EAT MANCHESTER

Like London, Manchester has a truly diverse population and the city's cuisine follows suit – so much so there is even an annual food and drink festival (1 - 12 Oct 2009). One of the most popular places to dine is an area of Rusholme called "Curry Mile". Resembling a subdued version of the Las Vegas strip, the street is lined on both sides with neon signs beckoning you for a beer and a curry.

You can't go wrong with a meal in this part of town – try the Royal Naz (18 Wilmslow Rd, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 256 1060) or Shere Khan (50-52 Wilmslow Rd, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 256 2624), a couple of Manchester's more famous curry houses. Manchester seems to have a penchant for Asian food, as you can always find good Chinese, Japanese, or Korean restaurants around the city.

PARTY MANCHESTER

For the city which spawned its own rock genre, "Madchester," it is no surprise to see partying at the top of the list. Mancunians of all orientations flock to the "Gay Village" for drinks, music, and fun. Eden Bar (3 Brazil Street & Canal Street, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 237 9852) is a top choice that caters to all lifestyles and it even has its own canal barge for the summer months. Many of the venues in the Gay Village are refurbished cotton warehouses, another reminder of how the city's industrial past turning into a cosmopolitan future.

Piccadilly Gardens is also a lovely place for a drink, as well as the Northern Quarter, where you can find Mancunian music and an off-beat crowd. The Roadhouse (8 Newton St, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 228 1789) is one of the more famous live music venues, or you can try Australian-themed Billie Rox (106 Portland St, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 228 2036) bar for fun down-under anthems.

SLEEP MANCHESTER

If you go to Manchester, your best bet is to stay fairly centrally, such as near Piccadilly Station – the Malmaison on Piccadilly is an excellent choice if your budget suits. To catch a glimpse of the local television stars, stay at the Victoria and Albert Hotel on Water Street, as often actors will pop in for an after-work drink in the bar. Budget seekers should head for the Hotel Ibis on Portland Street, which has fantastic rates given its central location.

Photo Credits: Canal Street, Manchester by Coradia1000; On Wilmslow Road by iwouldstay; Madchester by mikecolvin82 via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Hong Kong is not short of Spanish restaurants. It is short however on the buzz, the chatter and the vibrancy that characterizes tapas bars across Spain. So welcome Uno Más. Four months old and already its tables are full and its atmosphere animated, even on a Tuesday night.

The restaurant aims to recreate the Barcelona tapas experience for Iberia-philes in Hong Kong. The modern, monochrome interior looks like many a trendy Barcelona bar, and the chef has been imported from Spain too, for added culinary authenticity.

The menu offers both tapas and main courses. We chose a selection of tapas including Ensalada de la Casa (a mixed salad topped with thinly sliced Manchego cheese), Cetas Mixtas al Jerez (sautéed mushrooms with sherry), Escalivada (roasted peppers, onions and aubergines), Albóndigas con Tomate (meatballs in a tomato sauce) and the Tortilla de Patata (potato and onion omlette served with alioli). The best, by far, was the tortilla with the meatballs coming in a close second. The salad was good – fresh and drizzled with deliciously rich balsamic vinegar – the mushrooms and escalivada very eatable, not outstandingly good.

I asked the General Manager for his recommendations and he quickly rattled off Gambas, Calamare, Bacalao a la Llauna (pan fried cod with red peppers and garlic), Croquetas de Jamón, Tortilla de Patata y Chorizo and Manzana Rellena (stuffed baked apple with pork, raisins and pine nuts). The paella also came highly recommended. We should have asked before we ordered!

The wine list was decent, the highlight being Pedro Ximénez (sweet, dark, dessert sherry) by the glass (HK$75).

Uno Más is an exciting addition to Hong Kong's Spanish restaurant scene, and is absolutely worth a visit. Go with a group of friends for a relaxed, informal dinner or as a couple for an intimate meal in a lively atmosphere. We sat inside on a high table, but the covered balcony (with air-con) looked like the best spot to be.

A meal for two, including wine, costs about HK$1,000.

Uno Más, 1/F, 54 – 62 Lockhart Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 2527 9111. Opening hours: Sunday – Thursday, 12pm – 2am; Friday and Saturday: 12pm – 3am.

By Helena Iveson

Is there a more food-obsessed city than Kuala Lumpur? Malaysia's ethnic blend of Chinese, Malay and Indian has made Kuala Lumpur Asia's capital city of gluttony. "We are truly a food-mad country," says Honey Ahmad, co-founder of local food blog Fried Chillies. "Eating is what unites us. When we talk about food, it transcends race and religion and breaks down barriers."

Fasting for a few days before arrival might be a good idea as something else that unites locals is a love of carbs, from Indian roti bread to Malaysian favourite Hokkien mee noodles. But dining out in Kuala Lumpur, whether it be at the street-side stalls which line the city or in one of the many air-conditioned malls, is the city's greatest pleasure and staggeringly inexpensive.

Your first stop in KL should be night market Jalan Alor, near Bukit Bintang, the neon-lit nightlife centre. The street used to be a red light district but is now a family-friendly destination where spice and sauce comes from flaming woks.

Take a wander through the stalls and feast on the sight of hungry diners perched on rickety stools, waiting for their char siew barbequed pork or steaming plates of chilli fried squid to arrive amongst the clatter of woks.

Stalls to look out for include Jalan Alor Nasi Lamak Stall at the road's junction with Changkat Bukit Bintang. Carnivores will devour the meltingly rich beef rendang, where the meat is stewed in thick coconut milk for a day. Locals eat it with sambal kerang – a chilli and cockles paste – on the side. If you have room for more meat, don't miss out on the fabulous Wong Ah Wah chicken stall at the end of the road – just look out for the queue of fans waiting for their wings.

Where: Jalan Alor, Off Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Photo Credits: beef rendang - ready to simmer by smashz, NL - dishes by babe_kl via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Helena Iveson

You might think the Chinese are a conservative bunch, but a night out at a funky Japanese yakiniku (grilled meat) restaurant off one of Beijing's trendiest hutong alleys, will make you kiss off that idea.

Kiss Kiss, run by a charismatic Taiwanese guy, offers great and inexpensive barbecue dishes in a fun-filled steamy atmosphere thanks to the restaurant's table-side grills and their unique offer: kiss someone for ten seconds and you'll receive a free plate of beef tongue. This might sound a little icky to wimpy Western palates, but dip the tasty morsels into the freshly ground sesame sauce provided and you'll be a cow convert.

When we were there, two couples who had had a few glasses of the potent local brew meijiu – one boyfriend and girlfriend combo and two guys who got it on to the amusement of their respective girlfriends – were egged on to kiss by a cheering crowd. Be warned: kissing couples are recorded for posterity as the restaurant owner takes a Polaroid picture and plasters it on the wall.

Aside from the entertainment factor, the restaurant more than holds its own food wise. The bilingual menu offers different meat and vegetable options which you order already marinated and ready for your table's personal grill. If the friendly staff isn't too busy they'll cook it all for you at your table, but even if you have to man the grill yourself, it's not too arduous a task. Don't miss the incredibly tender Australian beef dipped in garlic butter sauce which, as well as all the kissing, provokes more than its fair share of passion, too.

Kiss Kiss, 2 Heizhima Hutong, off Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng District, Beijing, China; Open 5pm – 11.30pm; Tel: +86 10 6403 7626

By Helena Iveson

One of the best things about Beijing is the mouth-watering food, but recreating delicious dishes like steamed ribs with fermented soybeans and dry stir-fried green beans at home can be difficult – unless that is, you went to a Hutong Cuisine cooking class during your visit.

Professional cook Chun Yi, who speaks perfect English, holds informal and fun classes everyday from her home, where she teaches a selection of her favourite dishes from the Sichuan province, home to some of China's spiciest and most memorable dishes.

Don't worry if the nearest you've been to cooking Chinese food is cracking open a fortune cookie, as Chun Yi starts with the basics. First thing in the morning there's an optional market tour where she will talk you through the myriad of different vegetables available in China, covering everything from choosing cai xin or cai sum for blanched vegetable dishes, to what the different types of soy bean pastes are used for.

Once you've returned to her courtyard home, just off one of Beijing's trendiest hutong alleys, the aprons go on and the knives come out. Classes are kept to a maximum of six people, each of whom has their own cooking space around a big table. It's a good job there's plenty of room as Chun Yi teaches you how to wield a fearsome looking cleaver.

Once you've mastered knife skills, the real fun begins and after four hours you'll have cooked three different dishes and, if you're anything like me, will have eaten everything with gusto. Well, you've been slaving in the kitchen for a few hours – you deserve it, right?

Cooking classes cost 180RMB per person for 4 hours and every day there is a different menu. Check Chun Yi’s website for details, www.hutongcuisine.com.

For more posts about Beijing, click here.

Photos by Helena Iveson.

By Helena Iveson

Wondering where to eat in London? From traditional British cuisine to contemporary Japanese dining, check out these London restaurant recommendations and make sure you're eating stylishly next time you're in town.

Taking afternoon tea with a twist

What could be more English than an afternoon spent in a beautiful lounge sipping tea and eating dainty cakes and elegant crustless sandwiches? Plenty of hotels in London put on a fantastic spread to revive even the weariest of shoppers, but The Berkeley hotel's Prêt-à-Portea is currently the number one choice for celebrities thanks to its designer take on traditional fare. Look out for everyone from supermodel Kate Moss to Sharon Stone.

Held in the aptly-named Caramel Room, guests feast on a dainty collection of cakes and fancies in the colours of the latest fashion season accompanied by designer English tea. Try out the Valentino signature red chocolate coat biscuit accessorized with gold buttons, the Alexander McQueen fromage blanc chiffon dress balanced with raspberry meringue or the Smythson "Maze Bag" banana Madeira cake with gold leaf clasp, to name just a few. They are all served on fine-bone china by Paul Smith for Thomas Goode. In these gloomy economic climes, at just £35 per person (or £43 to include a glass of Laurent Perrier Champagne), it's a much more affordable way to keep up with the latest fashions.

From 1pm - 6pm every day.

The Berkeley, Wilton Place, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RL; Reservations call +44 (0)207 201 1619.

Sunday roast at Borough Market

Come Sunday, ovens across England are turned up to the max while a joint of meat is lovingly roasted... Well that's the dream anyway, but nowadays in our time-poor society, a traditional roast can just seem like too much effort. That's why people in the know book a table at the suitably named Roast restaurant in foodies' favourite London Bridge hangout, Borough Market.

The founder is intent on rescuing England's bad reputation for over-cooked roast meat served with watery vegetables and does just that, as the crowds of city workers, ladies who lunch and tourists looking for a beautifully cooked meal testify. The gorgeous dining room is light and airy and looks over Southwark Cathedral and bustling Borough market. All meat, and most other ingredients, served at Roast are from Britain. If the cold poached Devon sea trout and roast leg of lamb with capers is on the seasonal menu, order at once! Be warned though – portions are huge – though few diners will be able to resist a sliver of their famous Bakewell tart and cream.

Roast, The Floral Hall, Stoney Street, London SE1 1TL; Reservations: +44 (0)20 7940 1300.

A class act in Japanese dining

You'd expect a restaurant that is just around the corner from the Ritz to be on the snooty side, but Japanese restaurant Sake No Hana serves up great food without any snobbishness, even though the place attracts more than its fair share of the jet set (Kelly Osbourne was there when we sat down to eat).

Dress up here – one of the restaurant's owners is Alan Yau, a darling of the London restaurant scene, and his followers are a designer clad bunch, but bear in mind you'll have to take those Jimmy Choo shoes off if you want to sit at the atmospheric low tables. The other owner, Evgeny Lebedev, is the son of Russian oligarch Alexander Lebedev, which might account for the number of Russian supermodel types floating around.

There is a sushi bar downstairs, but head up the sleek escalator to the main restaurant with its striking blond wood and bamboo interior. We asked our waiter to order for us and, as we sipped lemongrass and ginger cocktails, a procession of achingly beautifully Kyoto-style plates from traditional sashimi to more innovative dishes, like aubergine and sesame with bonito flakes, arrived. If you're not familiar with the cuisine, the black-clad staff will advise you, as will the sake sommelier who can recommend what version of Japan's favourite alcohol from their 50-strong list will go best with your delicate and beautifully presented meal – even the skinny supermodels seemed to be digging in.

Sake No Hana, 23 St James's Street, London SW1A 1HA; +44 (0)20 7925 8988.

Photo Credits: Roast Pork by Manic Street Preacher and Sesame Aubergine by suziedepingu via Flickr (Creative Commons).

I was sent an email this morning asking for tips on travelling to the Sapa region in Vietnam. Sadly I've never been so deferred to a friend who went very recently and she came back with a goldmine of information. So good that it had to be shared!

So, here you go, the inside track on the stunning hill station of Sapa...

When to go to Sapa:

Avoid the winter months of January and February like the plague as the mountains are covered in fog making it impossible to see the surrounding area, which is the whole point of being there! April and May are meant to be good months as well as end of September and October. July and August is Sapa's rainy season so best avoided.

How to get to Sapa:

Fly into Hanoi and take the train up to Lao Cai, which is a nine hour overnight journey. On average there are three trains a night to Sapa departing from Hanoi station, so there are quite a few options to choose from.

If you are staying at the Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa, which is the best hotel in the area, then they have their own train which has a dining carriage and looks very comfortable. You can only book this if you are staying at the hotel.

The other option is the Fanxipan Express. This is a good and comfortable way to get to Sapa, although there's no dining carriage (the only train with a dining carriage on this route is the Victoria Express). There are four berths per carriage. If there are two of you travelling you will have to share with others unless you pay for all four berths to ensure privacy.

Pete Wilkes, Managing Director of Sapa Rooms, recommends the TSC train, the Livitrans train and the Hara train. He says these carriages all depart from Hanoi nightly between 7:30pm and 9:15pm, arriving in Lao Cai the following morning from 5:30am to 7:30am. These options are safe, secure, comfortable and clean, and come equipped with clean western toilets, air conditioning and lockable doors.

A four berth train ticket costs USD 37 per person one way and a two berth train ticket costs USD 85 per person one way.

Arriving in Sapa:

Once you arrive into Lao Cai there are people milling around to take you to Sapa which is about a 40 minute drive. Really watch out for touts and make sure that you buy your ticket from the driver once on the bus, otherwise you will end up paying over the odds.

Where to stay in Sapa:

Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa is a good hotel with swimming pool, spa and tennis court, as well as tour booking office on site. There is a restaurant and bar there (famous for its cheese fondue) so if you are looking to stay somewhere with all the comforts then I would recommend this, although the rates are a lot higher than anywhere else.

Tel: +84 43 9330318 (Speak to Ha – she is really helpful); Email: resa.sapa@victoriahotels.asia

Cha Pa Gardens is right in the centre of Sapa, by the market. It's very well located and a sweet place with just four decent sized rooms. The owner, Tommy, is married to a Vietnamese woman and they co-run it. Tommy can arrange for a local guide to take you on walks in the surrounding area, but as we were looking for a bit more depth to the tours and wanting to learn about the local culture, we ended up booking everything through the Victoria Sapa – but enjoy the lovely boutique style hotel.

Tel: +84 20 387 2907; Email: post@chapagarden.com; www.chapagarden.com

Sapa Rooms is the third recommended option. The hotel is run by Pete who was super helpful in sending through all the train options. He can book the train for you as well as all tours and activities. Sapa Rooms was closed when I went in January, but I walked past the hotel. It is right by the market and again in centre of town, but on the road and not set back like Cha Pa Gardens; I don’t think this would make any difference though and imagine service to be much better than at Cha Pa Gardens, which was a bit slack.

Tel: +84 (0)90 618 7883; Email: pete.wilkes@me.com / info@saparooms.com; www.saparooms.com

What to do in Sapa:

During the day, and if the weather is good, there is so much to do. There's lots of hiking, and although the trails can get quite busy with visitors we found a few treks that were less crowded. You are taken by local guides on these hikes, so also learn a lot about the local culture.

The top hikes are as follows. All of these hikes can be booked through Pete Wilkes at Sapa Rooms, who gives the profits back to the region's minority communities. All hikes can be customised to suit you, and his descriptions of them are as follows. Email pete.wilkes@me.com or call +84 (0)90 618 7883.

Cat Cat Village, 3km (difficulty - easy): This is the home of the H'mong minority tribe. During this hike you have the opportunity to meet and talk with locals to learn more about their daily life. There are many opportunities to purchase handicrafts direct from the local tribal community. The walk will take you to beautiful Cascade waterfall and the old French hydroelectric power station built over 100 years ago. You may choose to walk or catch a motorbike back to Sapa (2km). Cost: 180,000 VND per person.

Lao Chai and Tavan Villages (difficulty - medium): Walk along ancient buffalo trails between mountains and valleys and across rice paddies to arrive in the beautiful Lao Chai village. Along the way enjoy some of Vietnam's most breathtaking views of terraced rice fields. In Lao Chai village visit the H'mong people in their wooden and bamboo houses, experience daily life in the tribal villages which are set high in the mountains among pristine rice terraces and wild running rivers. Continue on to Tavan village home of the Day minority people. Meet the locals and pay a visit to the schools to distribute any gifts you may have brought from home. Here you will have many opportunities to purchase handicrafts direct from the local tribal community. Choose to return to Sapa on foot, jeep or motorbike. Cost: 420.000 VND per person includes lunch and your motorcycle ride.

Matra and Taphin villages (6 hours, 11km – includes home cooked lunch): First take either a jeep or motorbike ride 4km to visit the Black Hmong village of Matra which is set in a beautiful lush valley and famous for its picture perfect scenery. After this village, continue on the peaceful dirt road talking to locals until you reach the mountain village of Taphin - a traditional handy craft village and home to two different minorities; the Red Dzao and the Black H'mong. Have a picnic lunch in the village and take time to explore the village with your guide. Here there is an option to take a traditional Red Dzau hot bath with medicinal herbs. This is a great way to sooth tired muscles after trekking. Cost: 420,000 VND per person includes lunch and your motorcycle ride.

Ban Ho hot spring village (1 hour each way by jeep or motorbike, 4 hours trekking around Ban Ho village, includes home cooked lunch): If you want total isolation and dream of swimming in beautiful crystal clear rivers with local minority children surrounded by stunning scenery then this is the trek for you. Truly unforgettable, Ban Ho Village is worth the one hour jeep or motor bike journey to get there, as the village rewards visitors with stunning views and opportunities to discover the daily life of the ethnic Tay people. The trails and roads from Ban Ho also lead to the quiet Red Dao Village of Nam Toong and other ethnic communities, where you can enjoy the best of Northern Vietnam, such as deep valleys, amazing mountains and the friendliest people you can imagine. Cost: 650,000 VND per person, includes lunch and jeep or motorbike ride.

If you are going for longer than a weekend you may want to climb Fanxipan – any of the hotels can help arrange this for you.

Where to eat in Sapa:

There are some dodgy places and a few great ones; unfortunately we missed out on some as they were closed when we were there. My favourite, which is highly recommended, is Le Gecko. It is run by a great guy called Frederic. There is a pool table there, a terrace for eating outside, and if it's cold there is an open fire to sit next to inside. I recommend the mushroom pasta!

For more information about Vietnam, click here.

Photo Credits: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. All via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Helena Iveson

Chinese food doesn't really exist. It's obvious when you think about it that in a country with a population of 1.3 billion, people aren't going to be whipping up something from the same cookbook. One of the greatest delights of travelling in China is the huge array of mouth-watering regional cuisines on offer.

One of the best is found in the Yunnan province in the south-west of the country, where light and spicy is the name of the game and ingredients like mushrooms and flowers as well as goats cheese and ham feature prominently.

If a trip to the province isn't on the cards, the next best option is a trip to Dali Courtyard near the Drum and Bell Towers in Beijing. A true gem, Dali is small but filled with character. The intimate restaurant is set around a beautiful and traditional courtyard, and there's nowhere finer to eat outdoors than here in Beijing's sweltering summer.

The restaurant owner, a native of Dali, imports ingredients from her home region, and local Beijingers find the cuisine on offer as exotic as the average foreign visitor. It's difficult to make specific recommendations as the chef serves a set menu that changes daily depending on what's in stock – perfect for the indecisive as well as the greedy as the dishes keep coming and coming. If you're lucky, fried goat's cheese and the incredible mixed mushroom dish with mint and lemongrass will be on the (non-existent) menu.

It's one of the few places in the city where it is best to call ahead to book, so if you're after some of the best food in Beijing make sure you do.

For more restaurant recommendations, click here.

Dali Courtyard, 16 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie (20m east of the Nanluoguxiang north entrance), Dongcheng district; Tel: +86 10 8404 1430; Opening Hours: 11am-2pm and 6pm-11pm daily.

Photo Credit: Dinner at Dali Courtyard by bjohnsme via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Harriet Torry

Valencia, the regional capital of the Comunidad Valenciana (Valencia region) is probably best known for its oranges, tomato throwing festival (in nearby Buñol) and sailing. Not to be overlooked though are the city's buzzing culinary scene and its diverse Christian / Muslim heritage.

Eating and Drinking

The menu del día at Espita Gorgorita is excellent and, at 12 euros, good value for money. Great croquetas. The restaurant has trendy decoration, helpful staff and pavement tables overlooking the Plaza Tossal – a good place for people-watching.

Espita Gorgorita, Plaza San Jaime 3, 46001 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 925 835

Casa Mario was best restaurant I visited in Valencia. Fresh, regional dishes, excellent tapas - especially the asparagus a la plancha (griddled asparagus) - and the staff were friendly and knowledgeable about wine. Highly recommended, and popular.

Casa Mario, Calle Roteros 3, 46003, Valencia; Tel: +34 963 92 44 52

La Marcelina is a good paella restaurant on the Paseo Neptuno waterfront. The décor is a bit 1980s and, in typical Spanish style, it's got bright lighting and uncomfortable chairs, but the food makes it worth it.

La Marcelina, Paseo de Neptuno 8, 46011, Valencia; Tel: +34 963 712 025

Vivir sin Dormir is a trendy bar / restaurant just up the beach from La Marcelina.

Vivir Sin Dormir, Paseo de Neptuno 42, 46011 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 727 777; Fax: +34 963 559 275; www.vivirsindormir.com

The guide books lavish praise on Bar Pilar, but I was underwhelmed. I didn't try their famous mussels, but I thought the bean tapas was overcooked, and the squid too chewy. The staff weren't very welcoming, and they forgot part of my order.

Bar Pilar, Calle Moro Zeit 13, Valencia

Culture

When your feet are weary from sightseeing, you can catch a movie in its original English version at the Babel or Albatros cinemas . The Albatros cinema is a bit out of the way on Fray Luis Colomer 4, but only a five euro taxi ride from the city centre.

There are two works by Diego Velazquez in the Museo de Bellas Artes - a self-portrait and eerie monk lying in state - which makes the trip alone worth it. There are also works by Goya, Jose de Ribera and van Dyck, and a lovely courtyard.

Museo De Bellas Artes De Valencia, Calle San Pío V nº 9, 46010 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 870 300; Fax: +34 963 870 301; www.cult.gva.es

The IVAM (Institut Valencià d'Art Modern) is a snazzy building with interesting temporary exhibitions. If you don't have time to see the City of Arts and Sciences, then this is a good place to check out some modern Valencian architecture.

IVAM, Calle Guillem De Castro 118, 46003 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 863 000; Fax: +34 963 921 094; www.ivam.es

The Botanical Garden (entrance 1 euro) is an oasis in the heart of the city. It was originally conceived as a medicinal herbal garden for the university, and now it's also a very peaceful place to hang out.

Jardí Botànic (Botanical Garden), Calle de Quart 80, 46008 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 15 68 00; Fax: +34 963 15 68 26; www.jardibotanic.org

All images by Harriet Torry

By Turner Wright

We've all heard of sushi: fresh raw fish delicately sliced and placed over a bed of rice soaked in vinegar. It's the quintessential food that comes to mind as soon as Japan is mentioned, but I'm here to tell you that there is more. More than raw fish, more than an elaborate knife show at Benihana, more than avocados in a California roll. What follows are the lesser-seen delicacies of nihon ryōri (Japanese cuisine).

1. Nattō (納豆)

By strict definition, nattō is fermented soybeans. In practice, however, these little brown nuggets are the test of a foreigner's "Japaneseness". Each piece is bound by a pungent, sticky paste resembling a spider's web, making nattō an acquired taste (after living in Japan for two years I still can't stand it).

If it's your first day in a Japanese company and your co-workers offer to take you out to dinner, prepare to have natto thrust under your nose. The dish is usually accompanied by a polite phrase 召し上がってください (please do me the honour of eating this) that makes it impossible to refuse. Eat it quickly with rice and (try to) enjoy the rich protein.

2. Basashi (馬刺)

Shifting towards the meat end of the Japanese food spectrum we find basashi, a local specialty of the southern city of Kumamoto; it is raw horse meat dipped in soy sauce and often served with ginger and onions. The first time I sampled this dish I was fresh from an hour-long soak in a hot spring just north of the super-volcano Aso and eager for any kind of nourishment my lodging had to offer.

Ignoring the guilt brought on by memories of childhood rides through my native Texas, I raised the chopsticks to my mouth and slowly chewed. Although one might assume horse is tough and stringy, this dish was in fact quite tender and succulent.

3. Whale Meat

Although surrounded by controversy, the whaling industry remains alive and well in the land of the rising sun. Prevalent throughout Japanese history, whale meat really made its mark in post-war Japan when food supplies were stretched thin. Today canned meat and whale sashimi are widely available in shops and restaurants across Japan. If your conscience allows, give the blood red meat a try.

4. Takoyaki (たこ焼き)

Has there ever been a time when you were abroad and thought "thank god I understand the local language"? This happens to me whenever I see a takoyaki stand.

I know, I know, I should embrace the idea of sampling dishes across the world and broaden my palate with every taste imaginable, but still, tako (octopus) and I will always be sworn enemies.

Takoyaki is a perfectly spherical fried dumpling made of baby octopus, mayonnaise and batter. Japanese pop them into their mouths as easily as Westerners chew popcorn at the movies.

5. Ikizukuri, or “Eat it while it flops around”

I prefer to think of this as extremely fresh fish. In Japan, sashimi (sliced raw fish) is usually prepared in restaurants from a live animal, but served once quite inert. Ikizukuri is something very different. It often begins with a diner choosing a live fish, which a trained chef will then carefully slice up and present - the heart still beating as you take a bite.

6. Some like it hot

To understand this next style of cooking the importance of onsen (hot springs) in Japan has to be appreciated. While the art of the public bath has been waning in Western culture since the fall of the Roman Empire, in Japan it still flourishes, thanks to the country's active volcanoes. Hot spring culture has produced an amazing variety of products: special ramen, green tea, and champagne baths; stores stocking minerals and sulphur to recreate the hot springs experience at home.

In the small southern town of Beppu food is even prepared using the power of hot springs steam. Termed jigoku mushi, some of the more common steamed plates include pudding, dumplings, vegetables, and eggs; you can even order a hot chocolate made from hot springs water! Because the steam is seen as being clean and natural, it is believed that those who consume jigoku mushi will experience the same positive effects that come from a long soak: vitality, health, and longevity.

7. Shirako… you really don't want to know

Shirako might seem more suited to a reality TV show challenge than a list of delicacies. It is cod milt or, to put it bluntly, cod sperm. Enclosed by a thin sack, it is very tender and very gooey. Widely available, it can be eaten raw like sashimi or cooked like tempura.

8. What's that in my cake?

So you've been in Japan for a day or two, so far you've relied on Western chain restaurants and touristy sushi places for nourishment, but now realise that it's time to challenge your palette and discover the taste of "real Japan". But where to start? A restaurant serving infinite varieties of fish? A ramen shop? Why not try a bakery?

You'll see many familiar sights in a Japanese bakery: strawberry shortcake, chocolate cake, croissants. Alongside these old friends lie some mysterious looking cakes of various sizes and shapes. Curious, you take a bite. What just happened? Depending on the filling, you could have just consumed chocolate, cheese, green tea, or the mother of all Japanese fillings… red bean paste.

Red bean paste is available everywhere, from the largest supermarket in Osaka to a tiny convenience store on a remote island. It is the be-all and end-all of Japanese sweets, and it's unlikely you can spend a day in Japan without running into at least one confectionary filled with this soft, saccharine, powdery delight.

9. Squid Ink

If you're familiar with Mediterranean food, squid ink won't be unchartered culinary territory. For those of you who aren't the inky black discharge given off by squid might come as a shock mixed into your spaghetti or sushi. In Okinawa, the southernmost island of Japan, squid ink is used in a variety of dishes including squid ink soup.

10. Fugu (鰒)

If you feel like dicing with death in Japan forget launching yourself in front of a morning train in Tokyo station and order a serving of fugu.

This Japanese blowfish is mainly eaten for the thrill rather than the flavour. It is quite inedible, and can be lethally poisonous, save a few pieces of flesh which are meticulously excised by a licensed chef. Not to worry, even though the poison produced by the blowfish is deadlier than cyanide, chefs are trained for seven years before being allowed to use their skills professionally. No-one has ever died from eating fugu in Shimonoseki, where the fish is said to be the freshest and most delicious.

Try it raw, baked, boiled, or even served in sake (just the tail, though). If you're not up for the real thing, you can buy chocolates and toys shaped like blowfish in Shimonoseki.

Those with strong stomachs can see a Japanese chef preparing fugu here:

Photos (all via Flickr / Creative Commons): 1. Natto by jasja dekker 2. basashi by shrk 3. Whale meat curry by Animals in Japan 4. Takoyaki – Asatsuki by avlxyz 6. Beppu – Steam-powered kitchen by knaakle 7. Sushi - Shirako by puss_in_boots 8. Japan 2007 166.4 by mesozoic 9. Squid Ink Soup by hostelmanagement 10. fugu nigiri by selva.

A great recommendation for lovers of all things spicy in Hong Kong; Chilli Fagara on Graham Street.

A hotbed for fiery Szechuan-style food, diners can pick from a "numbing", "burning" or "neutral" menu. Make sure you try their house specials: baby squid, pork slices, lamb shank, chilli jumbo prawns, chilli crab (unbelievably good) and mandarin fish. The braised aubergine and minced pork wraps are fantastic too.

To keep prices down (this place is not expensive anyway) you can bring your own bottle and pay corkage.

A fun place to take over with a group of friends or to come with just a few. The restaurant is small with room for about 20 covers, so make sure you book in advance.

The restaurant is very low-key, you could blink and miss it on Graham Street. There's no sign outside so look for the place with dried chillies around the door and a cosy, red interior.

Chilli Fagara: Shop E, G/F, 51A Graham Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2893 3330; www.chillifagara.com.

Photo: Red chilli by wetwater via Flickr (Creative Commons)

Hot new opening on Hong Kong's bar / restaurant scene is The Pawn in Wanchai.

From the same people behind The Press Room on Hollywood Road, The Pawn looks set to be a winner.

Located in one of the few remaining historical buildings in Wanchai, this renovation has been executed really well.

Urban interiors are offset against two outdoor terraces that ooze Colonial glam; trams trundling past on Johnstone Road below add to the charm.

The first floor is home to The Pawn's bar, which also serves light snacks. The second floor houses the main restaurant, which serves European food.

Like its sister restaurant, The Press Room, The Pawn isn't a place to come if you want a cheap bite, but I think the money spent is well worth it.

The Pawn, 62 Johnston Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong. T: +852 2866 3444, www.thepawn.com.hk.

Here are some of my favourites from my last trip to Hong Kong.

EATING OUT:

For fresh, creative Vietnamese cuisine, check out Nha Trang on Wellington Street. It's a great lunch place, always full, but worth queuing for a table.

Nha Trang Vietnamese Cuisine: 88-90 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong, Tel: +852 2581 9992.

Enoteca and its sister restaurant Bacar have a great menu of experimental Western dishes and oriental foods, they come in perfect-for-sharing portions. Try the risotto balls and rosemary wedge potatoes, as well as the chicken peri-peri. Great service too.

Enoteca, G/F, 47 Elgin Street, SoHo, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2525 9944.

DRINKING:

Feather Boa Stepping into this bar is like time-travelling to 19th century Paris. It's small and exquisitely decorated, with beautiful gold fabric on the ceiling - great lychee daiquiris too.

Feather Boa, 38 Staunton Street, SoHo, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2857 2586

China Club For fans of David Tang's interior designs and eclectic contemporary Chinese art collection, the China Club will not disappoint. It was here I discovered the Gunner cocktail: angostura bitters, ginger ale and ginger beer. Very refreshing on a hot evening. There's also a terrace at the China Club where you can watch the famous Hong Kong light show at 8pm - when skyscrapers flash their neon lights around the harbour. It’s actually a private members' club, but concierges at some of the more upmarket hotels can secure you a table here.

China Club, 13/F, The Old Bank of China Building, Bank Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2521 8888

Aqua group have two bars worth visiting:

1) Aqua Spirit, a chi chi penthouse watering hole at One Peking Road, Kowloon. It's a bar and restaurant for Hong Kong’s well-heeled crowd. There's minimum charge of HK$150 (€12.50) per person, but worth it for the view and the cocktails. Dress up.

2) Aqua Luna, this is the coolest way to see Hong Kong: on board a traditional Chinese junk. Junks are getting rarer in Victoria Harbour these days, but this one is beautifully restored with huge red sails. The Aqua Luna sets sail from Tsim Sha Tsui or Pier No 9 Central for 45 minute cruises throughout the day. Lying back on plush cushions, glass of wine in hand, there is no better way to see the Hong Kong skyline by night. One drink is included in the ticket price.

Check here for sailing times and information on both Aqua Spirit and Aqua Luna.

CLUBS:

M1NT M1NT is a trendy private members' club, owned by 250 shareholders, and like the original club in London, it's a place to be seen.

The best and worst thing about it was the huge fish tanks filled with black-tipped reef sharks. If you're there at around 7pm or 4am, you might get to watch the sharks being fed. Sleek and scary-looking, they give the place a real edge. But I spent quite a lot of time watching the sharks swim in circles around their bare fish tank. With the loud music and confined space to writhe in, I felt rather sorry for them; living in a fish tank in a club can't be much fun compared with swimming around in the big blue sea. I tried to explain my shark issues to one of the bartenders but he thought I was trying to order shots! So if you feel strongly about seeing big fish in captivity, don't go to M1NT. Otherwise, it's a very cool club.

M1NT Hong Kong, 108 Hollywood Road, Tel: +852 2168 0604

SHOPPING:

Shopping is one of Hong Kong's premiere attractions. With very low rates of tax (including VAT sales tax), many of the brands you find here are much cheaper than at home.

Hong Kong is a great place for tailored suits. I can highly recommend Sam's Tailor, where I picked up a jacket and skirt in merino wool for about a quarter of the price I would have paid in London (or Berlin). I also got to sketch out my own design.

Sam's Tailor: Burlington Arcade 'K', 92-94 Nathan Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2367 9423 or 0363.

Herin Ching's designs at Fang Fong stand out from many of the boutiques in Soho. Very original and stylish dresses and accessories. It's pretty pricey, but the perfect place to pick up something special.

fang fong, 67a Peel Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 3105 5557

MASSAGE:

There are places to get a massage on practically every street corner. Healthy Foot just off Lang Kwai Fong does a great foot massage. Or, for a treat, head to the Landmark Mandarin Oriental in The Landmark building on Queen's Street Central. HK$450 (€37) will buy an amazing 30 minute back and shoulder massage, and you can also spend time relaxing in the sauna, steam room, jacuzzi and relaxation room. This spa introduced me to water flavoured with slices of orange - it tastes great!

Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen's Road Central, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong +852 2132 0011

Healthy Foot: Flat/RM 1001 Lan Kwai Fong, Tak Woo House, 1-3 Wo On Lane, Central Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2537 3098.

WALKING:

For such a big city, it's unbelievably easy and quick to escape from Hong Kong to the countryside. I did one day-hike on Lantau Island with a company called Walk Hong Kong. It started at the Big Budda, went through beautiful woods, hills and peaks, and finished at Tai-O fishing village. It was a pretty demanding walk (there are easier ones to choose from), and very hot on the day I went, but well worth it, and the guide was great. The price of the trip included lunch and transport costs, but it didn’t come cheap at HK$750.00 (€50).

The Dragon’s Back is a fun, unstrenuous walk that's easy to reach by bus or taxi from Central. It's so called because it consists of two hills, shaped like a dragon’s back. The walk is in Shek O national park, and the trail is well-marked. Shek O beach is also a great place to chill out and have lunch. You can stop off at Stanley Market on the way home and go shopping. Perfect.

There's plenty of chow in the Big Mango and it's cheap, delicious and super fresh. Here's a handful of recently discovered gems.

DECK BY THE RIVER, ARUN RESIDENCE

What? Great food on a luscious wooden deck above the Choapraya River. Deck by the River overlooks the mighty Wat Arun so you can soak up some culture whilst you wolf down your lunch. What could be better? Choose from a Thai or a Western menu. Delicious spring rolls, tom kha gai and salads. 1000 baht ($30) for lunch for two.

Where? 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road; +66 2221 9158.

LE LYS

What? Simple, filling, good Thai food washed down with cold Singha beer (no wines available). Sit on tables around a grassy courtyard amidst posters of the 2007 French rugby team and St. Tropez. One guidebook says it feels more like a dinner party here than a restaurant, and it's easy to see why, Ly Lys is a very laidback, friendly place.

We gorged on spicy carrot salad, aubergine and shrimp salad, green curry and red curry, plus plenty of Singha for 845 baht ($26).

Where? 104 Soi 7, Th Narathiwat Ratchanakharin; +66 2287 1898.

EAT ME

What? Slick and sexy, this "art restaurant" is both hip and delicious. Enjoy great Australian / Pacific Rim food on an outdoor terrace cooled by overhead fans, or sit inside underneath work by Bangkok artists.

Wet your whistle with a cocktail then dive straight into the starters; we chose mountain bread nachos with salsa and lentil and sesame soup. No rest for the wicked, next up was a feta, lentil, green been, tomato and paprika salad and salmon steak with capers, broad beans and lemon zest pulp.

All this and a good wine list. 2,700 baht ($83) for two people, two courses, plus wine.

Where? 1/6 Soi Pipat 2, a small street off of Convent Rd. just south of Silom Rd; +66 2238 0931.

BED SUPPERCLUB

What? Super stylish space-esq party pod. A favourite amongst well-healed expats with surprisingly good food. 1,750 baht ($54) buys you a three course set menu and entertainment galore.

Tomato and coriander soup was chased in by a waitress dressed as a rat (it being Chinese New Year). Then came a duck salad accompanied my Monsieur and Madame Massage who, for 200 baht, pummel your pressure points and ease away your aches. A quick rubdown was followed by sirloin steak then a mango, ginger and pomegranate sorbet. One treasure hunt later and in came a chocolate brownie with ice-cream and raspberries. The meal was rounded off by dragon dancers and acrobats performing vertigo-inducing feats to celebrate the year of the rat.

Non-stop entertainment plus supine supping and, if you’re feeling really energetic, an adjoining club pumping out house music.

Where? 26 Soi 11, Th Sukhuvmit

THE BLUE ELEPHANT COOKING SCHOOL

What? Where better to master the art of Thai cuisine than in the country’s crazy capital? ½ day or whole day courses with menus that change daily. Visit a market, watch fish have their heads ripped off and meet water beetles that smell of mangoes, go back to the school and get stuck in. Four courses, four classes, four chances to cook it yourself. When it’s all over you go downstairs and feast on the fruits of your labour.

Where? 233 Th Sathon Tai; +66 2673 9353; ½ day classes cost 3,250 baht.

Rip up your road safety rulebook, get ready to step into on-coming traffic and prepare for a LOT of ding for your dong, we’re off to Ho Chi Minh City.

Here’s the lowdown on a 36 hour, whistle stop tour of old Saigon:

FRIDAY

6pm, The New World Hotel: not the most glam of destinations, but the city’s first 5* hotel. Decent sized rooms, good bathrooms and a comfy bed. 500m away from tourist-ridden Ben Thanh Market.

7pm, Club Camargue: French food and great wine on a palm-fringed, candle-lit terrace. From smoked salmon to lamb shanks with artichokes to nutella crème brûlée, everything was delicious. $50 for two people, 3 courses plus wine. 16 Cao Ba Quat, 824 3148. Dinner only.

9:30pm, Vasco’s bar: Live music and pool tables in the courtyard directly below Club Camargue. What could be more convenient?! Watch out though, the whole operation is moving soon. As above.

11pm, Q Bar: Underneath the Municipal Theatre is slick Q Bar. A bit too cool for school, but fun to have drinks on Lam Son Square and soak up colonial architecture at the same time. 7 Lam Son Sq, 823 7699.

SATURDAY

9am, War Remnants Museum: Not for the faint-hearted. Graphic photographs, war memorabilia and malformed foetuses; a poignant insight into the horrors of Vietnam’s wars with the French and Americans.

10:15am, Reunification Palace: One look at this white elephant was enough to put me off touring its insides. Apparently there’s lots of interesting period kitsch and propaganda there however.

11am, Hôtel de Ville: A stroll past and gaze up at the fairytale, wedding-cake style old town hall. Now home to The People’s Committee. A stone’s throw from the Ho Chi Minh City Museum if you’ve got time to explore the city’s history.

11:10am, L’Apothiquaire: Oh la la! Homemade rubs and scrubs going for a song at this aromatherapy spa. Handmade products from Bordeaux at prices the French can only dream of - $4.50 for a lemongrass-scented salt scrub. Merci beaucoup. 63 Le Thanh Ton, 822 1218.

11:30, Nga: Lovely lacquer. Right next door to L’Apothiquaire.

11:40, Notre Dame Cathedral: A red bricked beauty in the middle of the city. Doesn't look a thing like its Parisian cousin, but who cares. If you're here on a Sunday, and so inclined, there's mass in English. If you're there don't miss the Post Office next door.

11:35 – 12:30, Dong Khoi: This is where the French used to strut their stuff and it’s easy to see why. Still home to chic boutiques and international designer labels. Very easy to while away an hour deciding whether that lacquer bowl or those buffalo horn salad servers would actually look good at home.

12:45, Temple Club: Fantastic Vietnamese food in this retro indo-chine salon. No MSG, fresh Pho soups and amazing spring rolls (amongst countless other temptations). Exposed brickwork, latticed wooden archways, Vietnamese lamps, original tiles and best of all, if you like some of their furniture, you can make them an offer to buy it. Would be a great place for dinner too. $25 for two people, 2 courses and soft drinks. 29 Ton That Thiep, 829 9244.

1:45 – 2:15, Ton That Thiep: Some great shops on this more off-the-beaten-track road. Try Gaya (#30) for homeware, linen, fashion and furniture, but get your credit card out because it doesn’t come cheap. Appeal (#41 and #33) has great eggshell lacquerware, from photo frames to floor lamps.

2:45pm, Ben Thanh Market: Hold onto your wallet, this is pickpocket heaven. If you can handle the throngs this is a good place to pick up a bargain. Traditional Vietnamese lanterns, ceramics and the backpacker must-have, Tiger Beer t-shirts. Towards the back is the wet market if you can’t hack the hassle.

3:15pm, pool time: need a nap? So did I. Ho Chi Minh is 30 degrees in Feb so why not soak up some sun?

5pm, Emperor Jade Pagoda: Incensed-filled Cantonese-built temple. Touted as the most interesting in town. If you’ve seen a lot of temples before and are tight for time I wouldn’t make the 30 min journey. There’s a nice temple garden though, which offers a welcome respite from the frenetic city.

7pm, Dong Du: Just off Dong Khoi is this quieter, bar and restaurant filled street. We stopped for drinks at Qing, a wine bar with Asian tapas, and were serenaded by dragon dancers gearing up for the Tết festival.

7:40pm, Thann and Harnn: Walking to dinner can be so distracting, especially when another amazing spa shop crops up. Scented candles and fragrant lotions in this little Aladdin’s cave. Jo Malone, eat your heart out. 23 Dong Du, 827 2008.

8pm, Nam Kha: Allegedly one of the city’s best Vietnamese restaurants, but actually where Donatella Versace met Laura Ashley and it all went hideously wrong. Perhaps the food is fantastic, but I wasn’t going to sit by the reflection pool to find out.

8:30pm, The Refinery: An oasis of simplicity and deliciousness in a courtyard near the Hôtel de Ville. Arriving at this French-owned restaurant is like stumbling into a secret garden; illuminated by candles and fairylights the restaurant sits on the ground floor of a yellow colonial house with a terracotta roof and wooden eaves. With a menu that would make Provence proud and a wine list to match, this is a great place to come for a glimpse of how the city must have been when the French were still in town. It was so hard to leave that we didn’t until we had to, sipping red wine and watching girls in traditional ao dais walk past. Around $60 for two people, 3 courses and (lots of) wine. 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, 823 0509.