By Harriet Torry

Valencia, the regional capital of the Comunidad Valenciana (Valencia region) is probably best known for its oranges, tomato throwing festival (in nearby Buñol) and sailing. Not to be overlooked though are the city's buzzing culinary scene and its diverse Christian / Muslim heritage.

Eating and Drinking

The menu del día at Espita Gorgorita is excellent and, at 12 euros, good value for money. Great croquetas. The restaurant has trendy decoration, helpful staff and pavement tables overlooking the Plaza Tossal – a good place for people-watching.

Espita Gorgorita, Plaza San Jaime 3, 46001 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 925 835

Casa Mario was best restaurant I visited in Valencia. Fresh, regional dishes, excellent tapas - especially the asparagus a la plancha (griddled asparagus) - and the staff were friendly and knowledgeable about wine. Highly recommended, and popular.

Casa Mario, Calle Roteros 3, 46003, Valencia; Tel: +34 963 92 44 52

La Marcelina is a good paella restaurant on the Paseo Neptuno waterfront. The décor is a bit 1980s and, in typical Spanish style, it's got bright lighting and uncomfortable chairs, but the food makes it worth it.

La Marcelina, Paseo de Neptuno 8, 46011, Valencia; Tel: +34 963 712 025

Vivir sin Dormir is a trendy bar / restaurant just up the beach from La Marcelina.

Vivir Sin Dormir, Paseo de Neptuno 42, 46011 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 727 777; Fax: +34 963 559 275; www.vivirsindormir.com

The guide books lavish praise on Bar Pilar, but I was underwhelmed. I didn't try their famous mussels, but I thought the bean tapas was overcooked, and the squid too chewy. The staff weren't very welcoming, and they forgot part of my order.

Bar Pilar, Calle Moro Zeit 13, Valencia

Culture

When your feet are weary from sightseeing, you can catch a movie in its original English version at the Babel or Albatros cinemas . The Albatros cinema is a bit out of the way on Fray Luis Colomer 4, but only a five euro taxi ride from the city centre.

There are two works by Diego Velazquez in the Museo de Bellas Artes - a self-portrait and eerie monk lying in state - which makes the trip alone worth it. There are also works by Goya, Jose de Ribera and van Dyck, and a lovely courtyard.

Museo De Bellas Artes De Valencia, Calle San Pío V nº 9, 46010 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 870 300; Fax: +34 963 870 301; www.cult.gva.es

The IVAM (Institut Valencià d'Art Modern) is a snazzy building with interesting temporary exhibitions. If you don't have time to see the City of Arts and Sciences, then this is a good place to check out some modern Valencian architecture.

IVAM, Calle Guillem De Castro 118, 46003 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 863 000; Fax: +34 963 921 094; www.ivam.es

The Botanical Garden (entrance 1 euro) is an oasis in the heart of the city. It was originally conceived as a medicinal herbal garden for the university, and now it's also a very peaceful place to hang out.

Jardí Botànic (Botanical Garden), Calle de Quart 80, 46008 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 15 68 00; Fax: +34 963 15 68 26; www.jardibotanic.org

All images by Harriet Torry

By Turner Wright

We've all heard of sushi: fresh raw fish delicately sliced and placed over a bed of rice soaked in vinegar. It's the quintessential food that comes to mind as soon as Japan is mentioned, but I'm here to tell you that there is more. More than raw fish, more than an elaborate knife show at Benihana, more than avocados in a California roll. What follows are the lesser-seen delicacies of nihon ryōri (Japanese cuisine).

1. Nattō (納豆)

By strict definition, nattō is fermented soybeans. In practice, however, these little brown nuggets are the test of a foreigner's "Japaneseness". Each piece is bound by a pungent, sticky paste resembling a spider's web, making nattō an acquired taste (after living in Japan for two years I still can't stand it).

If it's your first day in a Japanese company and your co-workers offer to take you out to dinner, prepare to have natto thrust under your nose. The dish is usually accompanied by a polite phrase 召し上がってください (please do me the honour of eating this) that makes it impossible to refuse. Eat it quickly with rice and (try to) enjoy the rich protein.

2. Basashi (馬刺)

Shifting towards the meat end of the Japanese food spectrum we find basashi, a local specialty of the southern city of Kumamoto; it is raw horse meat dipped in soy sauce and often served with ginger and onions. The first time I sampled this dish I was fresh from an hour-long soak in a hot spring just north of the super-volcano Aso and eager for any kind of nourishment my lodging had to offer.

Ignoring the guilt brought on by memories of childhood rides through my native Texas, I raised the chopsticks to my mouth and slowly chewed. Although one might assume horse is tough and stringy, this dish was in fact quite tender and succulent.

3. Whale Meat

Although surrounded by controversy, the whaling industry remains alive and well in the land of the rising sun. Prevalent throughout Japanese history, whale meat really made its mark in post-war Japan when food supplies were stretched thin. Today canned meat and whale sashimi are widely available in shops and restaurants across Japan. If your conscience allows, give the blood red meat a try.

4. Takoyaki (たこ焼き)

Has there ever been a time when you were abroad and thought "thank god I understand the local language"? This happens to me whenever I see a takoyaki stand.

I know, I know, I should embrace the idea of sampling dishes across the world and broaden my palate with every taste imaginable, but still, tako (octopus) and I will always be sworn enemies.

Takoyaki is a perfectly spherical fried dumpling made of baby octopus, mayonnaise and batter. Japanese pop them into their mouths as easily as Westerners chew popcorn at the movies.

5. Ikizukuri, or “Eat it while it flops around”

I prefer to think of this as extremely fresh fish. In Japan, sashimi (sliced raw fish) is usually prepared in restaurants from a live animal, but served once quite inert. Ikizukuri is something very different. It often begins with a diner choosing a live fish, which a trained chef will then carefully slice up and present - the heart still beating as you take a bite.

6. Some like it hot

To understand this next style of cooking the importance of onsen (hot springs) in Japan has to be appreciated. While the art of the public bath has been waning in Western culture since the fall of the Roman Empire, in Japan it still flourishes, thanks to the country's active volcanoes. Hot spring culture has produced an amazing variety of products: special ramen, green tea, and champagne baths; stores stocking minerals and sulphur to recreate the hot springs experience at home.

In the small southern town of Beppu food is even prepared using the power of hot springs steam. Termed jigoku mushi, some of the more common steamed plates include pudding, dumplings, vegetables, and eggs; you can even order a hot chocolate made from hot springs water! Because the steam is seen as being clean and natural, it is believed that those who consume jigoku mushi will experience the same positive effects that come from a long soak: vitality, health, and longevity.

7. Shirako… you really don't want to know

Shirako might seem more suited to a reality TV show challenge than a list of delicacies. It is cod milt or, to put it bluntly, cod sperm. Enclosed by a thin sack, it is very tender and very gooey. Widely available, it can be eaten raw like sashimi or cooked like tempura.

8. What's that in my cake?

So you've been in Japan for a day or two, so far you've relied on Western chain restaurants and touristy sushi places for nourishment, but now realise that it's time to challenge your palette and discover the taste of "real Japan". But where to start? A restaurant serving infinite varieties of fish? A ramen shop? Why not try a bakery?

You'll see many familiar sights in a Japanese bakery: strawberry shortcake, chocolate cake, croissants. Alongside these old friends lie some mysterious looking cakes of various sizes and shapes. Curious, you take a bite. What just happened? Depending on the filling, you could have just consumed chocolate, cheese, green tea, or the mother of all Japanese fillings… red bean paste.

Red bean paste is available everywhere, from the largest supermarket in Osaka to a tiny convenience store on a remote island. It is the be-all and end-all of Japanese sweets, and it's unlikely you can spend a day in Japan without running into at least one confectionary filled with this soft, saccharine, powdery delight.

9. Squid Ink

If you're familiar with Mediterranean food, squid ink won't be unchartered culinary territory. For those of you who aren't the inky black discharge given off by squid might come as a shock mixed into your spaghetti or sushi. In Okinawa, the southernmost island of Japan, squid ink is used in a variety of dishes including squid ink soup.

10. Fugu (鰒)

If you feel like dicing with death in Japan forget launching yourself in front of a morning train in Tokyo station and order a serving of fugu.

This Japanese blowfish is mainly eaten for the thrill rather than the flavour. It is quite inedible, and can be lethally poisonous, save a few pieces of flesh which are meticulously excised by a licensed chef. Not to worry, even though the poison produced by the blowfish is deadlier than cyanide, chefs are trained for seven years before being allowed to use their skills professionally. No-one has ever died from eating fugu in Shimonoseki, where the fish is said to be the freshest and most delicious.

Try it raw, baked, boiled, or even served in sake (just the tail, though). If you're not up for the real thing, you can buy chocolates and toys shaped like blowfish in Shimonoseki.

Those with strong stomachs can see a Japanese chef preparing fugu here:

Photos (all via Flickr / Creative Commons): 1. Natto by jasja dekker 2. basashi by shrk 3. Whale meat curry by Animals in Japan 4. Takoyaki – Asatsuki by avlxyz 6. Beppu – Steam-powered kitchen by knaakle 7. Sushi - Shirako by puss_in_boots 8. Japan 2007 166.4 by mesozoic 9. Squid Ink Soup by hostelmanagement 10. fugu nigiri by selva.

A great recommendation for lovers of all things spicy in Hong Kong; Chilli Fagara on Graham Street.

A hotbed for fiery Szechuan-style food, diners can pick from a "numbing", "burning" or "neutral" menu. Make sure you try their house specials: baby squid, pork slices, lamb shank, chilli jumbo prawns, chilli crab (unbelievably good) and mandarin fish. The braised aubergine and minced pork wraps are fantastic too.

To keep prices down (this place is not expensive anyway) you can bring your own bottle and pay corkage.

A fun place to take over with a group of friends or to come with just a few. The restaurant is small with room for about 20 covers, so make sure you book in advance.

The restaurant is very low-key, you could blink and miss it on Graham Street. There's no sign outside so look for the place with dried chillies around the door and a cosy, red interior.

Chilli Fagara: Shop E, G/F, 51A Graham Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2893 3330; www.chillifagara.com.

Photo: Red chilli by wetwater via Flickr (Creative Commons)

Hot new opening on Hong Kong's bar / restaurant scene is The Pawn in Wanchai.

From the same people behind The Press Room on Hollywood Road, The Pawn looks set to be a winner.

Located in one of the few remaining historical buildings in Wanchai, this renovation has been executed really well.

Urban interiors are offset against two outdoor terraces that ooze Colonial glam; trams trundling past on Johnstone Road below add to the charm.

The first floor is home to The Pawn's bar, which also serves light snacks. The second floor houses the main restaurant, which serves European food.

Like its sister restaurant, The Press Room, The Pawn isn't a place to come if you want a cheap bite, but I think the money spent is well worth it.

The Pawn, 62 Johnston Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong. T: +852 2866 3444, www.thepawn.com.hk.

Here are some of my favourites from my last trip to Hong Kong.

EATING OUT:

For fresh, creative Vietnamese cuisine, check out Nha Trang on Wellington Street. It's a great lunch place, always full, but worth queuing for a table.

Nha Trang Vietnamese Cuisine: 88-90 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong, Tel: +852 2581 9992.

Enoteca and its sister restaurant Bacar have a great menu of experimental Western dishes and oriental foods, they come in perfect-for-sharing portions. Try the risotto balls and rosemary wedge potatoes, as well as the chicken peri-peri. Great service too.

Enoteca, G/F, 47 Elgin Street, SoHo, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2525 9944.

DRINKING:

Feather Boa Stepping into this bar is like time-travelling to 19th century Paris. It's small and exquisitely decorated, with beautiful gold fabric on the ceiling - great lychee daiquiris too.

Feather Boa, 38 Staunton Street, SoHo, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2857 2586

China Club For fans of David Tang's interior designs and eclectic contemporary Chinese art collection, the China Club will not disappoint. It was here I discovered the Gunner cocktail: angostura bitters, ginger ale and ginger beer. Very refreshing on a hot evening. There's also a terrace at the China Club where you can watch the famous Hong Kong light show at 8pm - when skyscrapers flash their neon lights around the harbour. It’s actually a private members' club, but concierges at some of the more upmarket hotels can secure you a table here.

China Club, 13/F, The Old Bank of China Building, Bank Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2521 8888

Aqua group have two bars worth visiting:

1) Aqua Spirit, a chi chi penthouse watering hole at One Peking Road, Kowloon. It's a bar and restaurant for Hong Kong’s well-heeled crowd. There's minimum charge of HK$150 (€12.50) per person, but worth it for the view and the cocktails. Dress up.

2) Aqua Luna, this is the coolest way to see Hong Kong: on board a traditional Chinese junk. Junks are getting rarer in Victoria Harbour these days, but this one is beautifully restored with huge red sails. The Aqua Luna sets sail from Tsim Sha Tsui or Pier No 9 Central for 45 minute cruises throughout the day. Lying back on plush cushions, glass of wine in hand, there is no better way to see the Hong Kong skyline by night. One drink is included in the ticket price.

Check here for sailing times and information on both Aqua Spirit and Aqua Luna.

CLUBS:

M1NT M1NT is a trendy private members' club, owned by 250 shareholders, and like the original club in London, it's a place to be seen.

The best and worst thing about it was the huge fish tanks filled with black-tipped reef sharks. If you're there at around 7pm or 4am, you might get to watch the sharks being fed. Sleek and scary-looking, they give the place a real edge. But I spent quite a lot of time watching the sharks swim in circles around their bare fish tank. With the loud music and confined space to writhe in, I felt rather sorry for them; living in a fish tank in a club can't be much fun compared with swimming around in the big blue sea. I tried to explain my shark issues to one of the bartenders but he thought I was trying to order shots! So if you feel strongly about seeing big fish in captivity, don't go to M1NT. Otherwise, it's a very cool club.

M1NT Hong Kong, 108 Hollywood Road, Tel: +852 2168 0604

SHOPPING:

Shopping is one of Hong Kong's premiere attractions. With very low rates of tax (including VAT sales tax), many of the brands you find here are much cheaper than at home.

Hong Kong is a great place for tailored suits. I can highly recommend Sam's Tailor, where I picked up a jacket and skirt in merino wool for about a quarter of the price I would have paid in London (or Berlin). I also got to sketch out my own design.

Sam's Tailor: Burlington Arcade 'K', 92-94 Nathan Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2367 9423 or 0363.

Herin Ching's designs at Fang Fong stand out from many of the boutiques in Soho. Very original and stylish dresses and accessories. It's pretty pricey, but the perfect place to pick up something special.

fang fong, 67a Peel Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 3105 5557

MASSAGE:

There are places to get a massage on practically every street corner. Healthy Foot just off Lang Kwai Fong does a great foot massage. Or, for a treat, head to the Landmark Mandarin Oriental in The Landmark building on Queen's Street Central. HK$450 (€37) will buy an amazing 30 minute back and shoulder massage, and you can also spend time relaxing in the sauna, steam room, jacuzzi and relaxation room. This spa introduced me to water flavoured with slices of orange - it tastes great!

Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen's Road Central, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong +852 2132 0011

Healthy Foot: Flat/RM 1001 Lan Kwai Fong, Tak Woo House, 1-3 Wo On Lane, Central Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2537 3098.

WALKING:

For such a big city, it's unbelievably easy and quick to escape from Hong Kong to the countryside. I did one day-hike on Lantau Island with a company called Walk Hong Kong. It started at the Big Budda, went through beautiful woods, hills and peaks, and finished at Tai-O fishing village. It was a pretty demanding walk (there are easier ones to choose from), and very hot on the day I went, but well worth it, and the guide was great. The price of the trip included lunch and transport costs, but it didn’t come cheap at HK$750.00 (€50).

The Dragon’s Back is a fun, unstrenuous walk that's easy to reach by bus or taxi from Central. It's so called because it consists of two hills, shaped like a dragon’s back. The walk is in Shek O national park, and the trail is well-marked. Shek O beach is also a great place to chill out and have lunch. You can stop off at Stanley Market on the way home and go shopping. Perfect.

There's plenty of chow in the Big Mango and it's cheap, delicious and super fresh. Here's a handful of recently discovered gems.

DECK BY THE RIVER, ARUN RESIDENCE

What? Great food on a luscious wooden deck above the Choapraya River. Deck by the River overlooks the mighty Wat Arun so you can soak up some culture whilst you wolf down your lunch. What could be better? Choose from a Thai or a Western menu. Delicious spring rolls, tom kha gai and salads. 1000 baht ($30) for lunch for two.

Where? 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road; +66 2221 9158.

LE LYS

What? Simple, filling, good Thai food washed down with cold Singha beer (no wines available). Sit on tables around a grassy courtyard amidst posters of the 2007 French rugby team and St. Tropez. One guidebook says it feels more like a dinner party here than a restaurant, and it's easy to see why, Ly Lys is a very laidback, friendly place.

We gorged on spicy carrot salad, aubergine and shrimp salad, green curry and red curry, plus plenty of Singha for 845 baht ($26).

Where? 104 Soi 7, Th Narathiwat Ratchanakharin; +66 2287 1898.

EAT ME

What? Slick and sexy, this "art restaurant" is both hip and delicious. Enjoy great Australian / Pacific Rim food on an outdoor terrace cooled by overhead fans, or sit inside underneath work by Bangkok artists.

Wet your whistle with a cocktail then dive straight into the starters; we chose mountain bread nachos with salsa and lentil and sesame soup. No rest for the wicked, next up was a feta, lentil, green been, tomato and paprika salad and salmon steak with capers, broad beans and lemon zest pulp.

All this and a good wine list. 2,700 baht ($83) for two people, two courses, plus wine.

Where? 1/6 Soi Pipat 2, a small street off of Convent Rd. just south of Silom Rd; +66 2238 0931.

BED SUPPERCLUB

What? Super stylish space-esq party pod. A favourite amongst well-healed expats with surprisingly good food. 1,750 baht ($54) buys you a three course set menu and entertainment galore.

Tomato and coriander soup was chased in by a waitress dressed as a rat (it being Chinese New Year). Then came a duck salad accompanied my Monsieur and Madame Massage who, for 200 baht, pummel your pressure points and ease away your aches. A quick rubdown was followed by sirloin steak then a mango, ginger and pomegranate sorbet. One treasure hunt later and in came a chocolate brownie with ice-cream and raspberries. The meal was rounded off by dragon dancers and acrobats performing vertigo-inducing feats to celebrate the year of the rat.

Non-stop entertainment plus supine supping and, if you’re feeling really energetic, an adjoining club pumping out house music.

Where? 26 Soi 11, Th Sukhuvmit

THE BLUE ELEPHANT COOKING SCHOOL

What? Where better to master the art of Thai cuisine than in the country’s crazy capital? ½ day or whole day courses with menus that change daily. Visit a market, watch fish have their heads ripped off and meet water beetles that smell of mangoes, go back to the school and get stuck in. Four courses, four classes, four chances to cook it yourself. When it’s all over you go downstairs and feast on the fruits of your labour.

Where? 233 Th Sathon Tai; +66 2673 9353; ½ day classes cost 3,250 baht.

Rip up your road safety rulebook, get ready to step into on-coming traffic and prepare for a LOT of ding for your dong, we’re off to Ho Chi Minh City.

Here’s the lowdown on a 36 hour, whistle stop tour of old Saigon:

FRIDAY

6pm, The New World Hotel: not the most glam of destinations, but the city’s first 5* hotel. Decent sized rooms, good bathrooms and a comfy bed. 500m away from tourist-ridden Ben Thanh Market.

7pm, Club Camargue: French food and great wine on a palm-fringed, candle-lit terrace. From smoked salmon to lamb shanks with artichokes to nutella crème brûlée, everything was delicious. $50 for two people, 3 courses plus wine. 16 Cao Ba Quat, 824 3148. Dinner only.

9:30pm, Vasco’s bar: Live music and pool tables in the courtyard directly below Club Camargue. What could be more convenient?! Watch out though, the whole operation is moving soon. As above.

11pm, Q Bar: Underneath the Municipal Theatre is slick Q Bar. A bit too cool for school, but fun to have drinks on Lam Son Square and soak up colonial architecture at the same time. 7 Lam Son Sq, 823 7699.

SATURDAY

9am, War Remnants Museum: Not for the faint-hearted. Graphic photographs, war memorabilia and malformed foetuses; a poignant insight into the horrors of Vietnam’s wars with the French and Americans.

10:15am, Reunification Palace: One look at this white elephant was enough to put me off touring its insides. Apparently there’s lots of interesting period kitsch and propaganda there however.

11am, Hôtel de Ville: A stroll past and gaze up at the fairytale, wedding-cake style old town hall. Now home to The People’s Committee. A stone’s throw from the Ho Chi Minh City Museum if you’ve got time to explore the city’s history.

11:10am, L’Apothiquaire: Oh la la! Homemade rubs and scrubs going for a song at this aromatherapy spa. Handmade products from Bordeaux at prices the French can only dream of - $4.50 for a lemongrass-scented salt scrub. Merci beaucoup. 63 Le Thanh Ton, 822 1218.

11:30, Nga: Lovely lacquer. Right next door to L’Apothiquaire.

11:40, Notre Dame Cathedral: A red bricked beauty in the middle of the city. Doesn't look a thing like its Parisian cousin, but who cares. If you're here on a Sunday, and so inclined, there's mass in English. If you're there don't miss the Post Office next door.

11:35 – 12:30, Dong Khoi: This is where the French used to strut their stuff and it’s easy to see why. Still home to chic boutiques and international designer labels. Very easy to while away an hour deciding whether that lacquer bowl or those buffalo horn salad servers would actually look good at home.

12:45, Temple Club: Fantastic Vietnamese food in this retro indo-chine salon. No MSG, fresh Pho soups and amazing spring rolls (amongst countless other temptations). Exposed brickwork, latticed wooden archways, Vietnamese lamps, original tiles and best of all, if you like some of their furniture, you can make them an offer to buy it. Would be a great place for dinner too. $25 for two people, 2 courses and soft drinks. 29 Ton That Thiep, 829 9244.

1:45 – 2:15, Ton That Thiep: Some great shops on this more off-the-beaten-track road. Try Gaya (#30) for homeware, linen, fashion and furniture, but get your credit card out because it doesn’t come cheap. Appeal (#41 and #33) has great eggshell lacquerware, from photo frames to floor lamps.

2:45pm, Ben Thanh Market: Hold onto your wallet, this is pickpocket heaven. If you can handle the throngs this is a good place to pick up a bargain. Traditional Vietnamese lanterns, ceramics and the backpacker must-have, Tiger Beer t-shirts. Towards the back is the wet market if you can’t hack the hassle.

3:15pm, pool time: need a nap? So did I. Ho Chi Minh is 30 degrees in Feb so why not soak up some sun?

5pm, Emperor Jade Pagoda: Incensed-filled Cantonese-built temple. Touted as the most interesting in town. If you’ve seen a lot of temples before and are tight for time I wouldn’t make the 30 min journey. There’s a nice temple garden though, which offers a welcome respite from the frenetic city.

7pm, Dong Du: Just off Dong Khoi is this quieter, bar and restaurant filled street. We stopped for drinks at Qing, a wine bar with Asian tapas, and were serenaded by dragon dancers gearing up for the Tết festival.

7:40pm, Thann and Harnn: Walking to dinner can be so distracting, especially when another amazing spa shop crops up. Scented candles and fragrant lotions in this little Aladdin’s cave. Jo Malone, eat your heart out. 23 Dong Du, 827 2008.

8pm, Nam Kha: Allegedly one of the city’s best Vietnamese restaurants, but actually where Donatella Versace met Laura Ashley and it all went hideously wrong. Perhaps the food is fantastic, but I wasn’t going to sit by the reflection pool to find out.

8:30pm, The Refinery: An oasis of simplicity and deliciousness in a courtyard near the Hôtel de Ville. Arriving at this French-owned restaurant is like stumbling into a secret garden; illuminated by candles and fairylights the restaurant sits on the ground floor of a yellow colonial house with a terracotta roof and wooden eaves. With a menu that would make Provence proud and a wine list to match, this is a great place to come for a glimpse of how the city must have been when the French were still in town. It was so hard to leave that we didn’t until we had to, sipping red wine and watching girls in traditional ao dais walk past. Around $60 for two people, 3 courses and (lots of) wine. 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, 823 0509.