The Best of Manchester

Posted by Emma Torry on July 14, 2009 at 01:08 PM

By Andy Hayes

Visitors to England often spend most or all of their time in London and its surrounding villages and countryside, overlooking some of the more intriguing cities of the North, such as Manchester, which is experiencing a cultural boom. Here are just a few of the best things to see and do during a stay in Manchester, whether your trip is a quick weekend break or a longer stay.

WALK AND SEE MANCHESTER

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Manchester's city centre has been transformed in recent years to entice locals to live and work in the area, so now you'll find art galleries, museums, shopping, and restaurants all within easy reach. Manchester's centre also provides access to the canal network, formerly the backbone of the city's industrial heritage but now a walker's haven with many workers using the route as a stress-free commute.

Don't miss stops such as the Manchester Cathedral, Manchester Town Hall - one of the most important Victorian buildings in England - and The Manchester Wheel. If you get tired of walking you can be anywhere in Manchester quickly with the easy-to-use tram and bus system.

EAT MANCHESTER

Like London, Manchester has a truly diverse population and the city's cuisine follows suit – so much so there is even an annual food and drink festival (1 - 12 Oct 2009). One of the most popular places to dine is an area of Rusholme called "Curry Mile". Resembling a subdued version of the Las Vegas strip, the street is lined on both sides with neon signs beckoning you for a beer and a curry.

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You can't go wrong with a meal in this part of town – try the Royal Naz (18 Wilmslow Rd, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 256 1060) or Shere Khan (50-52 Wilmslow Rd, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 256 2624), a couple of Manchester's more famous curry houses. Manchester seems to have a penchant for Asian food, as you can always find good Chinese, Japanese, or Korean restaurants around the city.

PARTY MANCHESTER

For the city which spawned its own rock genre, "Madchester," it is no surprise to see partying at the top of the list. Mancunians of all orientations flock to the "Gay Village" for drinks, music, and fun. Eden Bar (3 Brazil Street & Canal Street, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 237 9852) is a top choice that caters to all lifestyles and it even has its own canal barge for the summer months. Many of the venues in the Gay Village are refurbished cotton warehouses, another reminder of how the city's industrial past turning into a cosmopolitan future.

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Piccadilly Gardens is also a lovely place for a drink, as well as the Northern Quarter, where you can find Mancunian music and an off-beat crowd. The Roadhouse (8 Newton St, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 228 1789) is one of the more famous live music venues, or you can try Australian-themed Billie Rox (106 Portland St, Manchester; Tel: +44 161 228 2036) bar for fun down-under anthems.

SLEEP MANCHESTER

If you go to Manchester, your best bet is to stay fairly centrally, such as near Piccadilly Station – the Malmaison on Piccadilly is an excellent choice if your budget suits. To catch a glimpse of the local television stars, stay at the Victoria and Albert Hotel on Water Street, as often actors will pop in for an after-work drink in the bar. Budget seekers should head for the Hotel Ibis on Portland Street, which has fantastic rates given its central location.

Photo Credits: Canal Street, Manchester by Coradia1000; On Wilmslow Road by iwouldstay; Madchester by mikecolvin82 via Flickr (Creative Commons).

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Business Traveller's Guide To... Hong Kong

Posted by Emma Torry on June 11, 2009 at 03:34 PM

Our brand new "Business Traveller's Guide To" series kicks off with Hong Kong. The new guide gives you the heads up on everything you need to know about the "Fragrant Harbour".

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For tips on where to stay, eat, meet, drink, shop, spa, get suited and much more click here. These tips are guaranteed to knock the socks of your clients and colleagues next time you're in town.

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Where to Spa in Hong Kong: The Mandarin Barbour.

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Visiting Jersey: The 'Gem of the Sea'

Posted by Emma Torry on May 21, 2009 at 01:09 PM

By Harriet Torry

The Channel Islands aren't usually on most travellers' radars when it comes to choosing a holiday spot. Generally, Britain's outlying islands conjure up images of offshore banking, dairy cows, Jersey potatoes and complicated residency rules.

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But in my travels around the Channel Islands, most recently to Jersey, I've found it to be well worth a visit. Jersey's rolling fields of green, beaches, castles, and warm climate are all good reasons for a visit. The Gulf Stream means the islands enjoy a warm climate.

Other advantages are that it's well-connected to the UK, and the time zone and currency are the same as on the mainland. That's worth considering at the moment, with the poor dollar/euro to pound exchange rates.

A quarter of Jersey's work force is employed in the financial services industry, and that has two important effects on tourists: good hotels and restaurants. Two establishments have even been awarded Michelin stars.

I liked the The Terrace at the Grand Hotel (Esplanade, St Helier 01534 722301). The avocado and mango salad and crab sandwich on focaccia were both great. There's a large terrace with a good view of Elizabeth Castle, and the service is excellent.

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Café JAC in the Jersey Arts Centre is also a nice spot for a latte (Philips Street, St Helier, Tel: 01534 879 482). The Museum Brasserie at the Jersey Museum (The Weighbridge, St Helier (Tel: 01534 633300) has a large courtyard and is a good place for lunch. Another great thing about Jersey is the ice-cream. The famed milk of the Jersey cow definitely lives up to its creamy reputation.

To get around, it's best to hire a car. The sights and beaches are spread around the island and public transport is limited to buses. There are a number of signposted bike trails – which is good as the vehicle roads can be very windy. Navigating the roads is terrifying enough in a car – even though the speed limit is only 40 miles an hour. A bike would not be for the faint hearted, so stick to the trails.

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Jersey's main historical attractions are Mont Orgueil Castle and Elizabeth Castle. There are also a number of tourist attractions that tell the story of the five year Nazi occupation of Jersey from 1940 to 1945. The Channel Islands were the only part of the UK to be occupied during the Second World War.

A complex of underground bunkers, the Höhlgangsanlage, has been turned into the Jersey War Tunnels museum. There's a permanent exhibition at Ho8 on the life of Violette Szabó, a secret agent for Britain's Special Operations Executive during WWII. Szabó was executed in Ravensbrück concentration camp aged 23 and was awarded the George Cross posthumously. It was her daughter Tania Szabó who received the cross on her mother's behalf in 1949. Now a Jersey resident, Tania Szabó opened the exhibition at the Jersey War Tunnels in 2003. (Höhlgangsanlage 8, St Lawrence. Tel: 01534 860 808)

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I stayed at the Hotel de France, St. Helier. It's a grand four-star hotel with a gym, sauna, infinity pool and a chic spa. My room was very comfortable, had a fine view of St. Helier, and staff were helpful too. The Hotel de France has had an interesting history, with various incarnations as a Jesuit College, a training school for the occupying German forces during the second world war, and twice as a hotel. It's about a 15 minute walk from town.

History, fine dining and beaches – Jersey has got serious holiday credentials.

Harriet Torry was guest of the Jersey Tourism Bureau. For more information about Jersey please visit their website at www.jersey.com

Photo Credits: St Brelade's Bay by Paul Hudson; Elizabeth Castle, St Helier, Jersey by Alex Fearn; View from Mont Orgueil Castle by paulafunnell; SOE Memorial, Albert Embankment by Loz Flowers via Flickr (Creative Commons).

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Isla Holbox: A Tiny Mexican Island with Big, Big Fish

Posted by Emma Torry on May 20, 2009 at 11:19 AM

By Christina Newberry

Isla Holbox (pronounced hole-bosh) is a small island located on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula, about three hours from Cancun by bus. It's best known as a place to swim with whale sharks – the world's largest fish – from June to September. At over 12 metres long and weighing up to 13 tonnes, whale sharks are the largest fish on earth – but since they only eat plankton, they pose no danger to swimmers.

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For the rest of the year, Isla Holbox is simply a place to relax. With a population of less than 2,000 people, streets paved with sand, and no cars, it really is a world apart from any tourist locale. You often look around to realise that while you're surrounded by pelicans, there are no other humans in sight. If you've ever wanted to indulge a desert island fantasy, this is the place to do it. Read on for a travel guide to Isla Holbox...

Where to stay on Isla Holbox:

The entire island is a working fishing site, so all stretches of beach are full of moored fishing boats, and there are tons of pelicans gobbling up the abundant fish. None of the beaches are as nice as those you'll find in the Caribbean (the island's waters are part of the Gulf of Mexico), but you'll often have them all to yourself.

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One stretch of beach has become known as Isla Holbox’s Hotel Zone. It's a cluster of resorts, many made up of luxurious cabañas. The hotels charge in American dollars, with prices starting at $75 per night and going up to over $180 (much more during whale shark season).

An excellent low-cost alternative is the Ida y Vuelta campsite, located just behind the hotel zone, about 200 metres from the beach. Ida y Vuelta offers camping spots for $7 per person, beds in a shared cabana for $11 per person, or a private cabana for $45 (all prices are mid-season rates). With an excellent communal kitchen, hammocks all over the place, and the cleanest hostel-style bathroom I've ever seen, it's a wonderful way to make the most of Holbox's charms and make some new friends at the same time.

What to do on Isla Holbox:

Truthfully, unless you're there for the whale sharks, Isla Holbox is all about not doing much at all. Island life is slow and laid back, and nothing in town really beats an afternoon spent in a hammock. That said, renting bicycles and riding around the island is an excellent way to spend an afternoon. For 80 pesos (less than $6) you can rent a bike for 24 hours. The bikes have some salt damage, no gears, and foot brakes, but they'll get you where you're going (and you won't be going far – the entire island is only 40 km long and 2 km wide.)

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If you are there during whale shark season, just about anyone on the island can put you in touch with a tour operator. Most of the snorkelling tours are operated by local fishermen, who cherish the whale sharks and conduct their tours in ways that don't disturb the breeding and migration of the big fish. All-day snorkel tours are available for around $80 per person.

Riding, bird-watching, and crocodile watching is also available on the island, and from May to August there are tours to see nesting sea turtles on a pristine beach. All of these tours are available through Mextreme Travel.

Where to Eat on Isla Holbox:

Isla Holbox has a large population of Italian immigrants, and the cuisine on the island is overwhelmingly Italian. Almost every restaurant serves up pasta, risotto, and other Italian specialities – and prices are not that much less that what you would expect to find in an Italian restaurant in any major North American city. Both Los Pelícanos and La Cueva del Pirata offer excellent homemade pasta in the town's main square.

Of course, as a fishing village, Isla Holbox also has excellent seafood – and it couldn't be fresher. It's rare for a fish to be more than 24 hours from catch to plate. The Buena Vista offers excellent grilled fish only a few feet from the beach. Some days, the beach bars offer fish straight from the boats that moor out front.

For a taste of Mexican food, start off the day with empanadas from Empanadas la Conquista or just buy a stack of fresh tortillas from the local tortilleria.

Getting to Isla Holbox:

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Isla Holbox has remained tranquil for a reason – it's a bit of a trek to get there. From Cancun, take the bus to Chiquila. It's about a three-hour trip, and since there's no exit to Chiquila from the toll highway, only second-class buses make the run. The second-class buses stop often to pick up passengers and drop them off, and they have no onboard toilet. The highway has more speedbumps than you'd ever expect a highway to have. The point is, it's not luxurious – but it's safe, and you will get there in one piece.

From Chiquila, take a ferry across the lagoon to Isla Holbox. It's a 20-minute crossing that runs nine times per day. If you've booked with Ida y Vuelta, there will likely be a friendly face waiting to meet you at the ferry dock. You can take a golf-cart taxi to your hotel or the campground if you have lots of luggage, but it's only a 10 to 15 minute walk to the hotel zone. You can access the Chiquila - Holbox ferry schedule here.

Relax:

It's not often that you'll be able to see vast stretches of beach populated only by birds and fish. Take it all in and let the vibe of Isla Holbox wash over you. When it's time to leave, you'll be surprised by just how mellow you've become.

Photo Credits: All images ©Christina Newberry unless credited below.

Whale Sharks via iStockPhoto.com; Isla de Holbox by Not all potatoes can swim... via Flickr (Creative Commons).

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China made easy

Posted by Emma Torry on August 18, 2008 at 05:31 PM

Travel + Leisure magazine has made life easy for visitors to China with their tips and tools to help travellers a successful trip to the middle kingdom.

In their words, "China can seem as impenetrable as it is imposing. Consider the numbers: it's the world's most populous nation (1.3 billion), where more than 100 cities have populations over a million. Fifty-six ethnic groups are spread across 22 wildly distinct provinces and five autonomous regions, in a landmass slightly larger than the U.S. Its history seems limitless and its traditions just as deep. But here and now, change is the only real constant—and it is accelerating at a dizzying pace. (One thousand new cars hit the streets of Beijing every day.)"

No wonder so many newcomers to China find the country so intimidating.

Itinerary wise, T+L recommends the following highlights:

Beijing: 2–3 days

China’s political, historical, and cultural capital demands at least three days—for the familiar landmarks of Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, and also for Beijing’s 21st-century architecture, such as the “Bird’s Nest” Olympic National Stadium by Herzog & de Meuron and the glass-and-titanium dome that is the National Grand Theater. China’s contemporary art scene finds its nexus in the galleries and cafés of the Dashanzi Art District, home to the new Ullens Center for Contemporary Art. Beijing’s atmospheric hutong, or traditional alleyways, are fast disappearing; explore the bustling ones off Nanluoguxiang, near the 13th-century Drum and Bell towers. Then check out the Legation Quarter, a high-end restaurant, entertainment, and cultural development set within the former American Embassy compound. And save a morning to stroll the manicured, 660-acre grounds of the Temple of Heaven, site of the circular Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, the 15th-century apogee of Chinese ritual architecture.

The Great Wall

Numerous stretches of the Great Wall are easily accessible from Beijing (ask your hotel to arrange a car or bus tour). But avoid the tourist trap of Badaling and head to the slightly less trammeled Mutianyu section, a 90-minute drive northeast of the Forbidden City. Early morning is best; try Asia 1 on 1 (asia1on1.com) for day trips.

Shanghai: 2–3 days

First stop: the riverfront promenade known as the Bund, with its Art Deco, Neoclassical, and Beaux-Arts façades, bars and shops, and views of the space-age towers of Pudong. In People’s Park you’ll find the Shanghai Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art. Weekdays are the best time to wander among the pine trees and ponds of the 16th-century Yuyuan Gardens. Xintiandi was the birthplace of the Chinese Communist Party; now this restored two-block district is defined by upscale shops and restaurants. The leafy, rustic French Concession is the favored destination for cutting-edge fashion and designs for the home. Shanghai’s latest secret? Lane 248, a gritty, narrow street now inhabited by artsy cafés and intimate boutiques, hidden behind Taikang Road.

Guilin: 2 days

(Two hours by air from Shanghai.) With its sheer limestone peaks jutting up from the Li River, Guilin is straight out of a traditional Chinese landscape painting, and remains one of China’s most breathtaking sights. Take in the view from Solitary Beauty Peak and marvel at the formations of the Reed Flute Cave. Spring and fall are best; avoid the heat of July and the crowds of the holiday seasons.

Xi’an: 2 days

(Two hours by air from Beijing.) China’s ancestral capital is renowned for its “terra-cotta army,” created during the Qin dynasty (221–207 B.C.): thousands of life-size clay warriors stand in formation as part of the funerary complex of China’s first emperor, with much more yet to be excavated. You’ll need at least two days here to take in the warriors, see the Shang dynasty bronze relics at the Shaanxi History Museum, walk along the Old City walls, and visit the Da Mai market.

Datong: 2 days

(One hour by air or six hours by scenic train ride from Beijing.) Majestic Qing dynasty frescoes are the standout in the celebrated temple district. Nearby excursions include the awesome Buddhist sculptures in the Yungang Grottoes and the Hanging Temple of Mount Hengshan, which clings precipitously to the side of a cliff. Not far away are some especially beautiful eroded mud-brick ruins of the Great Wall.

The article also includes must-read taxi tips, hotel recommendations, shopping advice and strategies, must-eat food, and six great new books on China. Happy days.

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36 Hours in Ho Chi Minh City

Posted by Emma Torry on February 04, 2008 at 06:03 PM

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Rip up your road safety rulebook, get ready to step into on-coming traffic and prepare for a LOT of ding for your dong, we’re off to Ho Chi Minh City.

Here’s the lowdown on a 36 hour, whistle stop tour of old Saigon:

FRIDAY

6pm, The New World Hotel: not the most glam of destinations, but the city’s first 5* hotel. Decent sized rooms, good bathrooms and a comfy bed. 500m away from tourist-ridden Ben Thanh Market.

7pm, Club Camargue: French food and great wine on a palm-fringed, candle-lit terrace. From smoked salmon to lamb shanks with artichokes to nutella crème brûlée, everything was delicious. $50 for two people, 3 courses plus wine. 16 Cao Ba Quat, 824 3148. Dinner only.

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9:30pm, Vasco’s bar: Live music and pool tables in the courtyard directly below Club Camargue. What could be more convenient?! Watch out though, the whole operation is moving soon. As above.

11pm, Q Bar: Underneath the Municipal Theatre is slick Q Bar. A bit too cool for school, but fun to have drinks on Lam Son Square and soak up colonial architecture at the same time. 7 Lam Son Sq, 823 7699.

SATURDAY

9am, War Remnants Museum: Not for the faint-hearted. Graphic photographs, war memorabilia and malformed foetuses; a poignant insight into the horrors of Vietnam’s wars with the French and Americans.

10:15am, Reunification Palace: One look at this white elephant was enough to put me off touring its insides. Apparently there’s lots of interesting period kitsch and propaganda there however.

11am, Hôtel de Ville: A stroll past and gaze up at the fairytale, wedding-cake style old town hall. Now home to The People’s Committee. A stone’s throw from the Ho Chi Minh City Museum if you’ve got time to explore the city’s history.

11:10am, L’Apothiquaire: Oh la la! Homemade rubs and scrubs going for a song at this aromatherapy spa. Handmade products from Bordeaux at prices the French can only dream of - $4.50 for a lemongrass-scented salt scrub. Merci beaucoup. 63 Le Thanh Ton, 822 1218.

11:30, Nga: Lovely lacquer. Right next door to L’Apothiquaire.

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11:40, Notre Dame Cathedral: A red bricked beauty in the middle of the city. Doesn't look a thing like its Parisian cousin, but who cares. If you're here on a Sunday, and so inclined, there's mass in English. If you're there don't miss the Post Office next door.

11:35 – 12:30, Dong Khoi: This is where the French used to strut their stuff and it’s easy to see why. Still home to chic boutiques and international designer labels. Very easy to while away an hour deciding whether that lacquer bowl or those buffalo horn salad servers would actually look good at home.

12:45, Temple Club: Fantastic Vietnamese food in this retro indo-chine salon. No MSG, fresh Pho soups and amazing spring rolls (amongst countless other temptations). Exposed brickwork, latticed wooden archways, Vietnamese lamps, original tiles and best of all, if you like some of their furniture, you can make them an offer to buy it. Would be a great place for dinner too. $25 for two people, 2 courses and soft drinks. 29 Ton That Thiep, 829 9244.

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1:45 – 2:15, Ton That Thiep: Some great shops on this more off-the-beaten-track road. Try Gaya (#30) for homeware, linen, fashion and furniture, but get your credit card out because it doesn’t come cheap. Appeal (#41 and #33) has great eggshell lacquerware, from photo frames to floor lamps.

2:45pm, Ben Thanh Market: Hold onto your wallet, this is pickpocket heaven. If you can handle the throngs this is a good place to pick up a bargain. Traditional Vietnamese lanterns, ceramics and the backpacker must-have, Tiger Beer t-shirts. Towards the back is the wet market if you can’t hack the hassle.

3:15pm, pool time: need a nap? So did I. Ho Chi Minh is 30 degrees in Feb so why not soak up some sun?

5pm, Emperor Jade Pagoda: Incensed-filled Cantonese-built temple. Touted as the most interesting in town. If you’ve seen a lot of temples before and are tight for time I wouldn’t make the 30 min journey. There’s a nice temple garden though, which offers a welcome respite from the frenetic city.

7pm, Dong Du: Just off Dong Khoi is this quieter, bar and restaurant filled street. We stopped for drinks at Qing, a wine bar with Asian tapas, and were serenaded by dragon dancers gearing up for the Tết festival.

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7:40pm, Thann and Harnn: Walking to dinner can be so distracting, especially when another amazing spa shop crops up. Scented candles and fragrant lotions in this little Aladdin’s cave. Jo Malone, eat your heart out. 23 Dong Du, 827 2008.

8pm, Nam Kha: Allegedly one of the city’s best Vietnamese restaurants, but actually where Donatella Versace met Laura Ashley and it all went hideously wrong. Perhaps the food is fantastic, but I wasn’t going to sit by the reflection pool to find out.

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8:30pm, The Refinery: An oasis of simplicity and deliciousness in a courtyard near the Hôtel de Ville. Arriving at this French-owned restaurant is like stumbling into a secret garden; illuminated by candles and fairylights the restaurant sits on the ground floor of a yellow colonial house with a terracotta roof and wooden eaves. With a menu that would make Provence proud and a wine list to match, this is a great place to come for a glimpse of how the city must have been when the French were still in town. It was so hard to leave that we didn’t until we had to, sipping red wine and watching girls in traditional ao dais walk past. Around $60 for two people, 3 courses and (lots of) wine. 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, 823 0509.

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