By Christina Newberry

The British Columbia town of Harrison Hot Springs (so named because of its natural hot spring pools) has an unexpected draw each autumn and winter. The bald eagle, that iconic symbol of America, is a major presence in this Canadian village—just an hour and a half drive from the major metropolis of Vancouver. In this lakeside town, eagles far outnumber the 800 or so permanent human residents when they come to feast on spawning salmon in the Harrison and Fraser Rivers.

In November of each year, the Fraser Valley Bald Eagle Festival celebrates the arrival of the eagles—and the salmon—with loads of free events and an eagle count. This year’s count topped 2,600 eagles along just three kilometers of the Harrison River.

That number may sound staggering—that’s close to a thousand eagles per kilometer of river, after all—but once you’re on the river, you believe it, and you’re blown away. At certain points along the river, each tree is spotted with close to 100 birds, and the gravel shorelines where salmon are most abundant are literal feasting grounds, with a seemingly impossible number of eagles congregating to gorge on the abundant fish.

The eagles can be spotted from land, if you head to the right spot. Sandpiper Golf Course is one such option for land-locked eagle viewing. Lunch at the course-side River Edge Restaurant offers the chance to spot a few eagles right from your dining table, with a warming fire in the fireplace to boot.

But for the real spectacle, you’ve got to head out on the water. Several local companies offer eagle-watching boat tours leaving from the dock directly in front of the iconic Harrison Hot Springs Resort and Spa. Harrison Eco Tours has an office right in the hotel and offers packages for hotel guests. Just a couple of hours on the river in a covered, heated boat allow you to spot hundreds of eagles, with guides knowing just when to cut the boat’s motor so you can get close to the eagles without disturbing them.

Even with the heaters, after all that time on a chilly river, there’s nothing better than a soak in the town’s famed mineral hot springs, which some claim have healing powers. Resort guests have access to five indoor and outdoor natural mineral hot springs pools. For those on a tighter budget, the town has a public hot spring pool that’s less romantic but just as warm.

If you go
Harrison Hot Springs is located less than two hours’ drive east of Vancouver (three hours from Seattle) in British Columbia’s Fraser Valley. For those wishing a more direct route, several major carriers fly to Abbotsford, about 45 minutes’ drive from Harrison Hot Springs. Eagles flock to the area starting in November, with peak viewing time in January and February.

Harrison Hot Springs Resort offers packages including two nights’ accommodation, access to the resort’s hot springs pools, full buffet breakfast, and a two-hour eagle watching tour with Harrison Eco Tours starting at $249.50 per person based on double occupancy. For each package sold a donation is made to an organization that supports wildlife programs.

Rowena’s Inn at Sandpiper Golf Course offer packages including one night’s accommodation, $50 credit for River’s Edge Restaurant, and access to the resort’s riverside designated eagle viewing area from $175 per room. They can also arrange boat tours.

For non-resort guests, the Harrison Hot Springs public pool offers access to an indoor hot spring pool for $9 per adult/$7 for children and seniors, and Harrison Eco Tours offers two-hour eagle-watching tours for $99 per person.

Tapeo, the custom of moving from one tapas bar to another, is now just as feasible in London as Barcelona thanks to the city's hot tapas spots.

So if you're in London and fancy a dose of Spain's finest, then check out these top tapas bars as recommended by experts in The Week. Take along the map we've put together below to make your tapeo experience even more convenient.

Barrafina: 54 Frith Street, London W1 (020 7813 8016)
Squaremeal.co.uk calls Barrafina the "best place for tapas this side of Barcelona." Don't miss the creamy ham croquetas, cured meats and shellfish cooked a la plancha (on the grill). Around £46 a head (go early or late to avoid queuing).

Tierra Brindisa: 46 Broadwick Street, London W1 (020 7534 1690)
Small and sleek, and a great place to get prawns cooked with garlic and chilli, "meltingly tender" filet steak, and the Torta de Barros cheese on toast. Around £36 a head, including wine and service.

Dehesa: 25 Ganton Street, London W1 (020 7494 4170)
An "informal yet sophisticated Spanish-Italian tapas bar," according to Time Out. Opt for grilled squid with chickpeas, chorizo and mint for "comfort cooking at its most vibrant". Around £36 a head, including wine and service.

Cigala: 54 Lamb's Conduit Street, London WC1 (020 7405 1717)
Harden's reviewers rave about Cigala's "substantial and tasty" Spanish dishes, "good choice of wines" and "welcoming" service. The experts recommend cured meats from Teruel and Extremadura, marinated anchovies and chicken livers fried with onions and sherry. Around £44 a head, including wine and service.

Barrica Tapas Bar: 62 Goodge Street, London W1 (020 7436 9448)
Time Out recommends Barrica to people who "like great Spanish wines and good food". Sound like a winning combination to us! Featuring classic dishes from across Spain, the cured meats are a particular hit. Around £31 a head, including wine and service.

Salt Yard: 54 Goodge Street, London W1 (020 7637 0657)
The London Evening Standard calls Salt Yard relaxed and "intimate" and close to "culinary heaven". Try the acorn-fed jamón ibérico, and the courgette flowers stuffed with Monte Enebro cheese. Dinner around £33 a head, including wine and service.

View Tapas Bars in London in a larger map

Photo Credit: iStockPhoto.com.

In Saturday's How to Spend It magazine award winning writer, Margaret Atwood, shares the ingredients for her perfect weekend in Toronto, Canada.

According to Atwood, winter visitors to Toronto should check out snow-tubing in Horseshoe Valley, winter birding, and forest walks in places such as Sir Winston Churchill Park and Leslie Hill Split.

For lunch in Toronto you should check out Live (264 Dupont St), which does great vegetarian food; Cantine (13 Avenue Rd), for a superlative bowl of soup; or Le Sélect (432 Wellington St West), a good weekend lunch spot serving up French bistro food (pictured below).

If you want some good dinner options you should look into Take Sushi (22 Front St West), for good Japanese and 93 Harbord (93 Harbord St) for Middle Eastern cuisine - both come highly recommended by Atwood.

L'Espresso Bar Mercurio (321 Bloor St West) is a favourite coffee place, right across the street from Toronto's Shoe Museum.

If you're up for a swanky night out in Toronto, Atwood suggests the new opera house (735 Queen St East), "the auditorium rests like an egg inside the building on huge, rubber elephant legs. The sound is excellent."

• Live: 264 Dupont St (North East corner of Dupont and Spadina), Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5R 1V7; Tel: +1 416 515 2002; Web: www.livefoodbar.com.
  
• Cantine: 13 Avenue Rd, Toronto, Ontario M5R 2H6; Tel: +1 416 923 4822; Web: www.cantine.ca.
  
• Le Sélect: 432 Wellington Street West, Toronto M5V 1E3; Tel: +1 416 596 6405; Web: www.leselect.com.
  
• Take Sushi: 22 Front Street West, Toronto, ON M5J 1C4, Canada; Tel: +1 416 862 1891; Web: www.takesushi.ca.
  
• 93 Harbord: 93 Harbord Street, Toronto, Ontario, M5S 1G4; Tel: +1 416 922 5914; Web: www.93harbord.com.
  
• L'Espresso Bar Mercurio: 321 Bloor Street West, Toronto, ON, M5S 1S5 (southeast corner of Bloor & St. George); Tel: +1 416 585 2233; Web: www.lespressobarmercurio.com.
  
• The Opera House, Toronto: 735 Queen Street East, Toronto, ON M4M 1H1, Canada; Tel: +1 416 466 0313; Web: www.theoperahousetoronto.com.

To read the full article visit www.howtospendit.com.

Photo Credits: Snow tubing by DrewOtt; Le Sélect via www.leselect.com.

By Helena Iveson

Ah, Venice. The city which has enough romance and magic to entrance even the most hard bitten of tourists, travel fiends who've been around the block more times than you've had hot dinners. But while mind-blowing beauty is on every calle corner, tourists whom are entranced by anything served up at the city's notoriously bad and pricey restaurants are rarer than a cheerful gondolier.

Then Il Ridotto opened on the lively Campo SS. Filippo, and Venice-bound gourmets now have a dining destination that is as much an attraction as the churches and grand squares. If you're organised enough to book way ahead at this intimate and stylish restaurant run by Gianni Bonaccorsi (there are just 6 tables), you'll enjoy Venetian art on your plate.

The chef personally welcomes you to his pared-back refuge from the crowds and visits each table to explain the menu which changes daily, depending on what he found at the city's Rialto Market. After an amuse-bouche of a perfectly plump prawn on a bed of truffled mashed potato, the first course arrived without any fuss, and when we tasted the fabulously rich homemade tagliolini with a surprisingly light Fassone beef ragu, the fireworks began. The secondo (which incidentally is the same size as the first so pace yourself) was squid stuffed with scampi and prawns in a clam sauce and was as colourful as a Venetian carnival mask.

For dessert, the deliciousness of the chocolate tart with its oozing soft centre kept us digging in, even though we were as stuffed as the squid, and after that it was a pleasure to sit back at our table by the window and sit, Murano glass in hand, and have an unobstructed view of the kitchen at work. It was just Bonaccorsi and a younger apprentice, and there was no Gordon Ramsey-style theatrics, but instead a calmness and creativity at play that set the tone for the rest of the restaurant. Our bill for two was €100 with half a bottle of wine: for Venice and for this quality, that was a bargain.

Il Ridotto
4509 Castello, Campo SS Fillippo, Venice, Italy 30122; Tel: +39 041 520 8280; Web: www.ilridotto.com.

Photo Credits: Venetian Gondolas via iStockPhoto.com, Il Ridotto via www.ilridotto.com.

London seems to have gone Lebanese food crazy. Since the last time I was in the UK's capital all sorts of mezze and falafel places have cropped up, notably a new chain called LebanEats, which seems to have outlets everywhere.

If you're after the seriously good stuff though you should head straight to Comptoir Libanais on Wigmore Street. There are other branches across the city, but this is the most centrally located.

Queue up at the deli counter for takeaway wraps, mezze, salads, tagines and drinks, or grab a table and settle in. The mezze platter to share - with hommous, tabbouleh, baba ghanuj, falafel, spinach fatayer, pickles and pitta - is a bargain for two at £9.50. The wraps, especially the falafel and the super garlicky chicken taouk, are less wallet friendly at £4.50, but also delicious. Highly recommended is the fab halloumi salad, which comes with all the usual trimmings and costs £5.50. Apparently you have to try the prawn falafel (£3.50) too, although sadly I didn't have the room.

If you're in need of a pitstop post-Selfridges shopping spree, or you want cheap eats before catching a concert at the Wigmore Hall then Comptoir Libanais is a great place. You can bring your own wine too and they won't charge corkage.

Comptoir Libanais, 65 Wigmore Street, London W1U 1PZ; Tel: +44 (0)20 7935 1110. For details of other locations please visit lecomptoir.co.uk.

Image via Comptoir Libanais on Facebook.

By Christina Newberry

Old Havana in the rain is an amazing place to be. After two weeks in Cuba, in the hottest weather I have ever known, the rains came. We were on our way to dinner, looking for a place that had been recommended to us, one of Havana's many paladares—family-run, home-based restaurants—which are often unmarked and known only by word of mouth.

Our taxi driver, of course, had never heard of the place we were looking for, so he dropped us off somewhere in the middle of Old Havana and left us to find our way. We had been wandering without luck for about ten minutes when the clouds broke. Within seconds the rain was coming down in sheets and we were soaked to the skin. The streets quickly emptied as locals sought shelter in their homes, and the few tourists who were in the area took refuge under whatever cover they could find.

Our refuge was a tunnel where a road went under a raised apartment building. In the tunnel there was a group of young boys playing a kind of handball. They seemed oblivious to the rain, playing and shouting for the ball or score, plunging through the large puddle forming in the middle of the road as we stayed close to the raised edges of the tunnel in an attempt to keep our shoes dry.

Watching the boys, we realised our own foolishness in hiding from the warm rain, and we emerged from our hideaway back into the near-deserted streets of Havana. We found the street where we had been told the paladar was located. We walked up and down the block three times before we noticed a young woman sitting on the side of the road. We asked her if she knew of the place, and she stood up and yelled up at the window above. A man upstairs threw down a key: we had found our paladar.

We had an enormous and wonderful meal in the upstairs room that was covered but had open walls through which we watched and heard the rain. The huge and beautiful rooster that lived in the upstairs courtyard kept his eye on the weather as well. By the time we had finished our meal and paid the small bill, the rain had stopped. It stopped as suddenly as it had come, and we arrived back at our apartment happy and dry. My memories of Cuba will stay with me forever, and I will always be grateful that I chanced to experience Old Havana in the rain.

For more information about paladares in Havana visit these websites:

• cuba-junky.com
  
• havana-guide.com
  
• havanajournal.com

Photo Credits: "Lluvia" by javiekitela; "Domesticity in Old Havana" by peamasher; "paladar la guarida" by bruna benvegnù. All images via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Harriet Torry

Tucked between the skyscrapers of Manhattan's Midtown sits a brownstone building that, during the Prohibition era, was an outlawed speakeasy. Today, it's '21' Club: a celebrated bar and restaurant. But the cheeky speakeasy vibe lingers from 1930, the year '21' opened, and comes across the moment you cross under the jockey statues awning the entrance. This is a place that mixes gourmet dining with soul.

The 'old New York' location is historic too, and the staff are charming. Although it's a high-end restaurant, wood-panelled with red leather seating, the atmosphere is friendly and fun without a hint of pretension. The clientèle is also a mix: from celebrities, to groups of executives, to couples and families.

'21' Club has a heavyweight history: as well as countless celebrity guests, it has been featured in more movies than any other New York restaurant, from Wall Street to an episode of Sex and the City.

The menu strongly favours East Coast cuisine such as Maine Lobster, Vermont Lamb and soft shell crab. There are also the classics like the 21 burger, shrimp cocktail and steaks.

'We try to stay "true American"', says head chef John Greeley. 'That's a bit of everything: East Coast, Southern and Low Country cooking, New England... We use local products, follow the seasons and don't like to ship proteins far. That way they're ultra fresh, the vegetables too.'

At 21, there's both the main restaurant, the Bar Room, and a lounge for drinks and light bites like burgers and crab cake, with a wine list of young reds and whites. The wine list in the Bar Room is vast and justly won the Wine Spectator Grand Award in 2008.

I went for the tasting menu to see what 21 Club has to offer. It started off well with an exquisitely fresh tomato gazpacho, creatively jazzed-up with poached shrimp. Next came chilled Maine lobster on a light asparagus terrine. It was complemented elegantly with a glass of Albariño Burgans.

After the soft shell crabs, and in keeping with the season, came sautéed Halibut with roasted oysters. The Halibut was as tender as the summer day is long. It came on a bed of corn and very smoky bacon.

The main courses rounded off with a fine filet of beef. Desserts started with the chef's fruit soup and blackberry sorbet. Then came the tasting menu's apex of indulgence: Manjari Bombe with a hazelnut brûlée centre and chocolate ice cream. It tasted as good as it sounds, and was even decorated with edible gold leaf. A glass of raisiny Madeira Bual Cossart-Gordon and petit fours brought the intricate desserts to a rounded close.

21's tasting menu of seven courses costs US$90, or US$150 with specially chosen wines. Most of the main courses on the à la carte menu cost around US$40, but until October 31st the restaurant is offering a three-course, recession-crushing set menu that costs US$24.07 for lunch and US$35 for dinner.

I asked the head chef what an international traveller with one night in New York should try from the menu. 'I would order the mixed grill because it showcases American game', says Greeley. 'And a steak because most European beef is grass-fed and leaner. Ours, being corn fed and aged, has a unique flavor and richness. As regards seafood, the halibut with razor clams, because you don't see either too often outside the States.'

At '21' Club - an intimate space with friendly yet polished service - American cuisine, American ingredients and American charm provide the quintessential New York experience.

'21' Club, 21 West 52nd Street, New York, New York 10019; Tel: +1 (800) 721 CLUB; Web: www.21club.com.

For opening hours and dress code, please check the website.

Photos courtesy of Orient-Express.

Heading to London this month or next and itching to know what's cool in the UK capital? You've come to the right place.

The all-knowing concierge team from Claridges, the Connaught and the Berkeley, aka "the city's best-informed residents", share their advice on what to do and where to go if you're planning a trip to London.

AUGUST

Drink...

Tini: The latest venture from the team behind Whisky Mist, Mahiki and the Punchbowl is glamorous cocktail bar Tini in the ever chic South Kensington. Just a stones throw away from Boujis and Mamilanji, this new haunt should prove just as popular with the social elite.

Tini, 87-89 Walton Street, South Kensington, London, SW3 2HP: +44 (0)20 7589 8558.

Eat...

Lutyens: This summer Sir Terence Conran proves once again that he is a master of the dining room-come-bar-come-members club. Hot on the heals of his last opening, the Boundary in Shoreditch, the wily old fox has done it again with this sublime spot on Fleet Street. You'd better book now because this one could be popular: classic French cuisine with a dash of Irish flair.

Lutyens, 85 Fleet Street, London, EC4Y 1AE; +44 (0)20 7583 8385.

Party...

Michael Jackson Tribute Concert: Following the tragic passing of Michael Jackson the Tribute Concert will be going ahead at London's O2 Arena on Saturday 29th August. Who will be performing? Well that is a closely guarded secret, however I can assure you it is going to be huge! Email me if you want tickets on cbogni@the-connaught.co.uk

SEPTEMBER

Eat...

Terroirs: At first glance, Terroirs seems like just another conventional attempt to transplant a traditional French bistro to the mean streets of central London. But look beyond the old advertising posters and wooden chairs, and you realise that there's something rather special going on here. The reasonably priced food combines creativity with a respect for full-on flavours and impeccable sourcing. Oh, and the wine is ok too!

Terroirs, 5 William IV Street WC2N 4DW; +44 (0)20 7036 0660.

Chill...

Spa Illuminata: Stressed? Worn out? Just need a little bit of pampering? This is quite simply the best day spa in London. Whether it's a manicure or a full body scrub you will be treated like royalty in this temple to relaxation.

Spa Illuminata, 63 South Audley Street, London, W1K 2QS; +44 (0)20 7499 7777.

Look...

Jeff Koons at the Serpentine: Inflatable toys? Check. Popeye? Check. Baffeling kitch? Check. The New York native and enfant terrible of the art world has bought this blockbuster exhibition to London. September 13th is the last day, so catch this one while you can.

Serpentine Gallery, Kensington Gardens, London, W2 3XA; +44 (0)20 7402 6075.

Luxury London hotels Claridge's, the Connaught, and the Berkeley are part of the Maybourne Hotel Group. For more information visit www.maybourne.com.

Photo Credits: Lutyens courtesy of Lutyens Restaurant, Bar & Cellar Rooms; Terroirs by Ewan-M, Jeff Coons Popeye Series by Chris Pattison.

For fab Portuguese food in Macau - and a whiff of former times in this small S.A.R - look no further than the institution that is Restaurante Fernando.

The eponymous owner has been serving up home-style cooking at his rustic, low-key restaurant for over 15 years. Not only is the food well worth coming for, but Fernado's location - in a corner of sleepy Coloane island - will give you a taste of a completely different Macau from the whirl of construction and bright lights on the Cotai Strip.

Fernando's laid-back attitude extends to its reservation policy: you can't book. If you're planning a visit over the weekend or on a public holiday arrive before 12:30pm or you'll have to wait in a long queue of hungry diners; Fernando's is unrelentingly popular.

If you end up having to wait, it's worth it, as the food is excellent. Grilled garlicky gambas, succulent roast chicken, juicy tomato salad, delicious clams, bread that homesick Europeans will go weak at the knees over, and so the list goes on. Prices are very reasonable, expect to pay about HKD 200 per person for more food than you can manage and a stream of beer, wine and sangria.

If miraculously you do save some space, Lord Stow's Bakery - another Macanese institution - is just around the corner in Coloane Main Square. The bakery's Portuguese-style egg tarts have a cult following that stretches way beyond Coloane's shores.

Restaurante Fernando, Praia de Hac Sa No. 9, Coloane, Macau; Tel: +853 2888 2264.

Lord Stow's Bakery, 1 Rua da Tassara, Coloane Town Square, Macau; Tel: +853 2888 2534; www.lordstow.com.

Check us out over at WanderFood Wednesday.

Hong Kong is not short of Spanish restaurants. It is short however on the buzz, the chatter and the vibrancy that characterizes tapas bars across Spain. So welcome Uno Más. Four months old and already its tables are full and its atmosphere animated, even on a Tuesday night.

The restaurant aims to recreate the Barcelona tapas experience for Iberia-philes in Hong Kong. The modern, monochrome interior looks like many a trendy Barcelona bar, and the chef has been imported from Spain too, for added culinary authenticity.

The menu offers both tapas and main courses. We chose a selection of tapas including Ensalada de la Casa (a mixed salad topped with thinly sliced Manchego cheese), Cetas Mixtas al Jerez (sautéed mushrooms with sherry), Escalivada (roasted peppers, onions and aubergines), Albóndigas con Tomate (meatballs in a tomato sauce) and the Tortilla de Patata (potato and onion omlette served with alioli). The best, by far, was the tortilla with the meatballs coming in a close second. The salad was good – fresh and drizzled with deliciously rich balsamic vinegar – the mushrooms and escalivada very eatable, not outstandingly good.

I asked the General Manager for his recommendations and he quickly rattled off Gambas, Calamare, Bacalao a la Llauna (pan fried cod with red peppers and garlic), Croquetas de Jamón, Tortilla de Patata y Chorizo and Manzana Rellena (stuffed baked apple with pork, raisins and pine nuts). The paella also came highly recommended. We should have asked before we ordered!

The wine list was decent, the highlight being Pedro Ximénez (sweet, dark, dessert sherry) by the glass (HK$75).

Uno Más is an exciting addition to Hong Kong's Spanish restaurant scene, and is absolutely worth a visit. Go with a group of friends for a relaxed, informal dinner or as a couple for an intimate meal in a lively atmosphere. We sat inside on a high table, but the covered balcony (with air-con) looked like the best spot to be.

A meal for two, including wine, costs about HK$1,000.

Uno Más, 1/F, 54 – 62 Lockhart Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 2527 9111. Opening hours: Sunday – Thursday, 12pm – 2am; Friday and Saturday: 12pm – 3am.

By Helena Iveson

You might think the Chinese are a conservative bunch, but a night out at a funky Japanese yakiniku (grilled meat) restaurant off one of Beijing's trendiest hutong alleys, will make you kiss off that idea.

Kiss Kiss, run by a charismatic Taiwanese guy, offers great and inexpensive barbecue dishes in a fun-filled steamy atmosphere thanks to the restaurant's table-side grills and their unique offer: kiss someone for ten seconds and you'll receive a free plate of beef tongue. This might sound a little icky to wimpy Western palates, but dip the tasty morsels into the freshly ground sesame sauce provided and you'll be a cow convert.

When we were there, two couples who had had a few glasses of the potent local brew meijiu – one boyfriend and girlfriend combo and two guys who got it on to the amusement of their respective girlfriends – were egged on to kiss by a cheering crowd. Be warned: kissing couples are recorded for posterity as the restaurant owner takes a Polaroid picture and plasters it on the wall.

Aside from the entertainment factor, the restaurant more than holds its own food wise. The bilingual menu offers different meat and vegetable options which you order already marinated and ready for your table's personal grill. If the friendly staff isn't too busy they'll cook it all for you at your table, but even if you have to man the grill yourself, it's not too arduous a task. Don't miss the incredibly tender Australian beef dipped in garlic butter sauce which, as well as all the kissing, provokes more than its fair share of passion, too.

Kiss Kiss, 2 Heizhima Hutong, off Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng District, Beijing, China; Open 5pm – 11.30pm; Tel: +86 10 6403 7626

By Helena Iveson

Wondering where to eat in London? From traditional British cuisine to contemporary Japanese dining, check out these London restaurant recommendations and make sure you're eating stylishly next time you're in town.

Taking afternoon tea with a twist

What could be more English than an afternoon spent in a beautiful lounge sipping tea and eating dainty cakes and elegant crustless sandwiches? Plenty of hotels in London put on a fantastic spread to revive even the weariest of shoppers, but The Berkeley hotel's Prêt-à-Portea is currently the number one choice for celebrities thanks to its designer take on traditional fare. Look out for everyone from supermodel Kate Moss to Sharon Stone.

Held in the aptly-named Caramel Room, guests feast on a dainty collection of cakes and fancies in the colours of the latest fashion season accompanied by designer English tea. Try out the Valentino signature red chocolate coat biscuit accessorized with gold buttons, the Alexander McQueen fromage blanc chiffon dress balanced with raspberry meringue or the Smythson "Maze Bag" banana Madeira cake with gold leaf clasp, to name just a few. They are all served on fine-bone china by Paul Smith for Thomas Goode. In these gloomy economic climes, at just £35 per person (or £43 to include a glass of Laurent Perrier Champagne), it's a much more affordable way to keep up with the latest fashions.

From 1pm - 6pm every day.

The Berkeley, Wilton Place, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RL; Reservations call +44 (0)207 201 1619.

Sunday roast at Borough Market

Come Sunday, ovens across England are turned up to the max while a joint of meat is lovingly roasted... Well that's the dream anyway, but nowadays in our time-poor society, a traditional roast can just seem like too much effort. That's why people in the know book a table at the suitably named Roast restaurant in foodies' favourite London Bridge hangout, Borough Market.

The founder is intent on rescuing England's bad reputation for over-cooked roast meat served with watery vegetables and does just that, as the crowds of city workers, ladies who lunch and tourists looking for a beautifully cooked meal testify. The gorgeous dining room is light and airy and looks over Southwark Cathedral and bustling Borough market. All meat, and most other ingredients, served at Roast are from Britain. If the cold poached Devon sea trout and roast leg of lamb with capers is on the seasonal menu, order at once! Be warned though – portions are huge – though few diners will be able to resist a sliver of their famous Bakewell tart and cream.

Roast, The Floral Hall, Stoney Street, London SE1 1TL; Reservations: +44 (0)20 7940 1300.

A class act in Japanese dining

You'd expect a restaurant that is just around the corner from the Ritz to be on the snooty side, but Japanese restaurant Sake No Hana serves up great food without any snobbishness, even though the place attracts more than its fair share of the jet set (Kelly Osbourne was there when we sat down to eat).

Dress up here – one of the restaurant's owners is Alan Yau, a darling of the London restaurant scene, and his followers are a designer clad bunch, but bear in mind you'll have to take those Jimmy Choo shoes off if you want to sit at the atmospheric low tables. The other owner, Evgeny Lebedev, is the son of Russian oligarch Alexander Lebedev, which might account for the number of Russian supermodel types floating around.

There is a sushi bar downstairs, but head up the sleek escalator to the main restaurant with its striking blond wood and bamboo interior. We asked our waiter to order for us and, as we sipped lemongrass and ginger cocktails, a procession of achingly beautifully Kyoto-style plates from traditional sashimi to more innovative dishes, like aubergine and sesame with bonito flakes, arrived. If you're not familiar with the cuisine, the black-clad staff will advise you, as will the sake sommelier who can recommend what version of Japan's favourite alcohol from their 50-strong list will go best with your delicate and beautifully presented meal – even the skinny supermodels seemed to be digging in.

Sake No Hana, 23 St James's Street, London SW1A 1HA; +44 (0)20 7925 8988.

Photo Credits: Roast Pork by Manic Street Preacher and Sesame Aubergine by suziedepingu via Flickr (Creative Commons).

By Helena Iveson

Chinese food doesn't really exist. It's obvious when you think about it that in a country with a population of 1.3 billion, people aren't going to be whipping up something from the same cookbook. One of the greatest delights of travelling in China is the huge array of mouth-watering regional cuisines on offer.

One of the best is found in the Yunnan province in the south-west of the country, where light and spicy is the name of the game and ingredients like mushrooms and flowers as well as goats cheese and ham feature prominently.

If a trip to the province isn't on the cards, the next best option is a trip to Dali Courtyard near the Drum and Bell Towers in Beijing. A true gem, Dali is small but filled with character. The intimate restaurant is set around a beautiful and traditional courtyard, and there's nowhere finer to eat outdoors than here in Beijing's sweltering summer.

The restaurant owner, a native of Dali, imports ingredients from her home region, and local Beijingers find the cuisine on offer as exotic as the average foreign visitor. It's difficult to make specific recommendations as the chef serves a set menu that changes daily depending on what's in stock – perfect for the indecisive as well as the greedy as the dishes keep coming and coming. If you're lucky, fried goat's cheese and the incredible mixed mushroom dish with mint and lemongrass will be on the (non-existent) menu.

It's one of the few places in the city where it is best to call ahead to book, so if you're after some of the best food in Beijing make sure you do.

For more restaurant recommendations, click here.

Dali Courtyard, 16 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie (20m east of the Nanluoguxiang north entrance), Dongcheng district; Tel: +86 10 8404 1430; Opening Hours: 11am-2pm and 6pm-11pm daily.

Photo Credit: Dinner at Dali Courtyard by bjohnsme via Flickr (Creative Commons).

A great recommendation for lovers of all things spicy in Hong Kong; Chilli Fagara on Graham Street.

A hotbed for fiery Szechuan-style food, diners can pick from a "numbing", "burning" or "neutral" menu. Make sure you try their house specials: baby squid, pork slices, lamb shank, chilli jumbo prawns, chilli crab (unbelievably good) and mandarin fish. The braised aubergine and minced pork wraps are fantastic too.

To keep prices down (this place is not expensive anyway) you can bring your own bottle and pay corkage.

A fun place to take over with a group of friends or to come with just a few. The restaurant is small with room for about 20 covers, so make sure you book in advance.

The restaurant is very low-key, you could blink and miss it on Graham Street. There's no sign outside so look for the place with dried chillies around the door and a cosy, red interior.

Chilli Fagara: Shop E, G/F, 51A Graham Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2893 3330; www.chillifagara.com.

Photo: Red chilli by wetwater via Flickr (Creative Commons)

By Ann Marie Svilar

Covering 29.5 square miles, Lopez Island, Washington is the first ferry stop in a cluster of islands called the San Juans, that rise from the Puget Sound and hug the Canadian border. Even during bustling tourist season Lopez Island will make you turn off the laptop and slow down. Wave to the blonde woman named Margie manning the ferry dock as you arrive. She will wave back. Waving is a tradition on this island; there is even a "Lopez wave" consisting of two fingers in a locked together peace sign.

As you make your first twists from the ferry dock, smell the dense trees and dried wild grass. Look for deer: there are many and they are domesticated enough to walk right up to you. Notice a Madrona tree with bark that looks like red peeling paper; scratch the trunk and it turns green. Look out for a Great Blue Heron, they are an elegant and common Lopez Island bird. You can find them almost anywhere in tidal lagoons along the seashore.

You'll see that most people name their driveways after themselves or something original like Pterodactyl Lane, or Baroque 'n Glass Lane. Mailboxes are painted with bald eagles and rich gardens are covered with tall fences to keep deer out. Some people live in make-shift buses, clusters of trailers, or in an A-Frame house. Stop by the Lopez Island Vineyards and pick up a bottle of Siegerrebe. Note that most streets don't have yellow lines and traffic is minimal in any direction. Enjoy the quiet and keep going.

If you're camping, Spencer Spit is the best place to stay. Located on the East side of the island, you can feel good karma there; the Spencer family sold the land to the state for much less than the private offers they received in order to make a state park that everyone could enjoy. Shirley (Spencer) Plummer is 87 years old, and recently became a great, great grandmother, she sits in her living room that overlooks Spencer Spit. It is a stretch of beach like no other, with driftwood, rocks and sand coming together into a single point that stares at Frost Island. The driftwood is easily made into forts. A muddy lagoon lines the spit to the North like a seam and smells as murky as it looks. Pitch your tent along the trees at the mouth of the spit; light a fire; cook some s'mores.

If you like beautiful beaches and down to earth people, you will love Lopez Island. It is a getaway in the simplest sense. Below are 7 things you should do whilst visiting the island.

Iceberg Point – Just past Agate Beach there is a small place to park and then walk into what looks like private residence. When you hit the tree line, turn right down a dirt path; walk through a gate and onto a maintained trail. After less than a mile the trees will open up to the most vast part of the Island; the unprotected South side. Your landscape will be big hills and rocks with tall grass that smells like dry summers. Your view will be of an ocean that seems to go on forever until you see the Olympic Peninsula and Olympic Mountains far in the distance.

Sharks Reef – My favourite spot on the island is Sharks Reef. The water here is treacherous because of undertow and sometimes you will see kayakers twirling and paddling their way through the narrow corridor that separates Lopez Island from San Juan Island. Large pieces of sea kelp that look like women with mermaid hair line the rocks. Here is where you see some of the best tide pools on the Island full of lipids' and sea anemones.

Saturday Farmers Market – Farmers Markets are special no matter where you go. Lopez market's charm lies in its small size. My favourite stall is Marianna's clothing, made of scraps of recycled cloth. She also has a store in the main part of town called Okeydo. Also visit my parent's booth at the market where they sell my brother's photos every Saturday. Introduce yourself!

Horse Drawn Farms – This eco-friendly farm used to use horses to farm the land, but now they use oxen. Produce is pre-picked and you can just drive up, make your selection and leave money based on the honour system. It's as simple and trusting as that.

Community Center – The centre hosts music and community theatre all year long. While you are there, walk North-east to the skate park where young kids are dropping into small half pipes.

The Bay Café – The Bay Café has the most expensive food on the island, averaging at around $20 a plate. But it also offers the most brilliant place to have dinner and watch the sunset as it lies down for the night behind Friday Harbour. The restaurant is run by two local men, with a lot of energy, who know how to bake an amazing cedar salmon. You'll also be guaranteed great hospitality.

Lopez Island Kayaks - Being on an island is amazing enough, getting the chance to see it up close from the water is special too. Rent a kayak, get some advice on routes and get close to the water. If you time your float trip between April and October you may see big rusty-red Lion's mane jellyfish as they make their way towards the beach at low tide.

TRAVELLER'S CHECK LIST

Getting there:

By ferry… Travel from Anacortes on the mainland to Lopez Island. The journey is approximately 85 miles and takes about 45 minutes. For pricing info and to buy tickets click here. On the ferry keep your eyes peeled for bald eagles, seals, otters and the occasional orca whale.

By plane… Kenmore Air fly direct from Seattle to Lopez Island daily. For more information on schedules, pricing and booking click here. The journey takes about 1hr 10 mins.

Where to stay:

1. Lopez Islander Resort; PO Box 459, Lopez Island, WA; desk@lopezislander.com
2. MacKaye Harbor Inn; 949 MacKaye Harbor Road Lopez Island, WA 98261; (888) 314-6140; innkeeper@mackayeharborinn.com. From USD 135 per night.
3. Edenwild; 1-800-606-0662; edenwild@rockisland.com. From USD 170 per night.
4. Lopez Lodge; Lopez Lodge, Lopez Island, WA 98261; (360) 468-2816; needle@rockisland.com. From USD 70 per night.

For information on camping on Lopez Island, click here

Where to eat:

1. Bay Café - about $30 a person. 9 Old Post Road Suite C, PO Box 692, Lopez, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.3700
2. Love Dog Café - $10-$15 per person. 1 Village Center, PO Box 633, Lopez Island, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.2150.
3. HollyB's Bakery - $5 or less. Lopez Plz, Lopez Island, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.2133.
4. Vortex - $10 per person for wraps and smoothies. Homestead Bldg C, Lopez Island, WA, 98261; Tel: 360.468.4740.
5. Isabel's Espresso - $5 or less for espresso drinks. 308 Lopez Rd, Lopez Island, WA, 98261; Tel: 360.468.4114

What to see:

For general information about visit the Lopez Island visitors bureau online here

1. Iceburg Point and Sharks Reef: click here for a map of Lopez.
2. Saturday Farmer's Market: Community Center.
3. Lopez Island Kayak: located at Marinas on Fisherman's Bay 360-468-2847
4. Horse Drawn Farms: 2823 Port Stanley Road

Events:

1. Fourth of July on Lopez: fun run, parade, salmon bbq and fireworks
2. Tour de Lopez (bike tour): last Saturday of April
3. Lopez Farmer's Market: May to Sept.
4. Artist's Studio Tour: last weekend in August

For more information on Lopez Island events click here

All photographs ©David Svilar.

Everyone has a Paris that they fantasise about. Some dream of dining in candlelit bistros, others hanker after markets heaving with cheeses and warm baguettes, perhaps you imagine getting lost in a maze of old streets, stumbling upon delicious patisseries and hidden courtyards.

The sad truth is that whatever your particular Paris fantasy is, it's hard to find in reality. The City of Lights is a big and busy capital: tourists swarm, noses in guidebooks, from The Louvre to the Musée d'Orsay to the Eiffel Tower to the Champs Elysees to Montmartre. Getting off the beaten track is no mean feat. Many of the city's rarest treats are almost impossible to find, eluding even the most avid of guidebook writers behind unassuming doors.

So, what if for €175, less than the cost of a pair of Parisian Louboutins, you could find your fantasy? Richard Nahem, a native New Yorker, has been living in Paris for three years with one mission: to show people the city he loves and the one that tourists seldom see. From the moment he made the move to France he was inundated with requests from friends and acquaintances to show people the "real" Paris and now he's made a business of it, Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which dovetails with the places that he features on his blog Eye Prefer Paris.

Richard's tours cater to a maximum of 6ish people so you're guaranteed a personalised experience. Based on clients' interests tours take a specific theme – e.g. shopping, markets and gourmet food, architecture and culture. Standard tours (€175) last three hours, those looking for more can extend to a full day, three days or a week if needs be.

Most tours centre on the Marais district, Richard's home and area of expertise, which spreads across the third and fourth arrondissements. Le Marais is one of Paris's most impressive areas, packed with 16th and 17th century private mansions, secret courtyards, neighbourhood restaurants, outstanding patisseries and traditional ateliers. Unless you know where they are however they all too easy to miss, chances are you'll be swallowed up instead by the tourists who flock to the district's famous gay bars and kosher restaurants.

Richard describes the perfect three hours in Paris as exploring the Place des Vosges (the oldest square in the city, dating back to 1605); stopping for a coffee and a pastry at one of the best patisseries in town; visiting a chocolate shop where you can buy all the chocolate sculptures you could ever dream of; uncovering a secret garden where wild roses grow unchecked; soaking up impressive 16th and 17th century architecture and exploring former private mansions.

Food lovers can look forward to Paris's Bastille food market (the city's biggest), gourmet food shops and the inside scoop on where to eat. Die-hard shoppers will feel lightheaded at the prospect of speciality shops, exclusive to Paris, where you can pick up organic cosmetics, stashes of handcrafted jewellery, piles of pashminas and Parisian couture. Culture vultures can sate themselves on Richard's expert knowledge of the history behind the city's streets, buildings and gardens.

As Richard puts it, "I'm here to fulfil peoples' Paris fantasy" - everyone dreams about Paris and whether your version includes ateliers and authentic restaurants or palaces and patisseries, Richard's goal is to find you exactly what you've been looking for.

For more information on Richard's tours and to contact him please visit Eye Prefer Paris Tours.

Hot new opening on Hong Kong's bar / restaurant scene is The Pawn in Wanchai.

From the same people behind The Press Room on Hollywood Road, The Pawn looks set to be a winner.

Located in one of the few remaining historical buildings in Wanchai, this renovation has been executed really well.

Urban interiors are offset against two outdoor terraces that ooze Colonial glam; trams trundling past on Johnstone Road below add to the charm.

The first floor is home to The Pawn's bar, which also serves light snacks. The second floor houses the main restaurant, which serves European food.

Like its sister restaurant, The Press Room, The Pawn isn't a place to come if you want a cheap bite, but I think the money spent is well worth it.

The Pawn, 62 Johnston Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong. T: +852 2866 3444, www.thepawn.com.hk.

Here are some of my favourites from my last trip to Hong Kong.

EATING OUT:

For fresh, creative Vietnamese cuisine, check out Nha Trang on Wellington Street. It's a great lunch place, always full, but worth queuing for a table.

Nha Trang Vietnamese Cuisine: 88-90 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong, Tel: +852 2581 9992.

Enoteca and its sister restaurant Bacar have a great menu of experimental Western dishes and oriental foods, they come in perfect-for-sharing portions. Try the risotto balls and rosemary wedge potatoes, as well as the chicken peri-peri. Great service too.

Enoteca, G/F, 47 Elgin Street, SoHo, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2525 9944.

DRINKING:

Feather Boa Stepping into this bar is like time-travelling to 19th century Paris. It's small and exquisitely decorated, with beautiful gold fabric on the ceiling - great lychee daiquiris too.

Feather Boa, 38 Staunton Street, SoHo, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2857 2586

China Club For fans of David Tang's interior designs and eclectic contemporary Chinese art collection, the China Club will not disappoint. It was here I discovered the Gunner cocktail: angostura bitters, ginger ale and ginger beer. Very refreshing on a hot evening. There's also a terrace at the China Club where you can watch the famous Hong Kong light show at 8pm - when skyscrapers flash their neon lights around the harbour. It’s actually a private members' club, but concierges at some of the more upmarket hotels can secure you a table here.

China Club, 13/F, The Old Bank of China Building, Bank Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2521 8888

Aqua group have two bars worth visiting:

1) Aqua Spirit, a chi chi penthouse watering hole at One Peking Road, Kowloon. It's a bar and restaurant for Hong Kong’s well-heeled crowd. There's minimum charge of HK$150 (€12.50) per person, but worth it for the view and the cocktails. Dress up.

2) Aqua Luna, this is the coolest way to see Hong Kong: on board a traditional Chinese junk. Junks are getting rarer in Victoria Harbour these days, but this one is beautifully restored with huge red sails. The Aqua Luna sets sail from Tsim Sha Tsui or Pier No 9 Central for 45 minute cruises throughout the day. Lying back on plush cushions, glass of wine in hand, there is no better way to see the Hong Kong skyline by night. One drink is included in the ticket price.

Check here for sailing times and information on both Aqua Spirit and Aqua Luna.

CLUBS:

M1NT M1NT is a trendy private members' club, owned by 250 shareholders, and like the original club in London, it's a place to be seen.

The best and worst thing about it was the huge fish tanks filled with black-tipped reef sharks. If you're there at around 7pm or 4am, you might get to watch the sharks being fed. Sleek and scary-looking, they give the place a real edge. But I spent quite a lot of time watching the sharks swim in circles around their bare fish tank. With the loud music and confined space to writhe in, I felt rather sorry for them; living in a fish tank in a club can't be much fun compared with swimming around in the big blue sea. I tried to explain my shark issues to one of the bartenders but he thought I was trying to order shots! So if you feel strongly about seeing big fish in captivity, don't go to M1NT. Otherwise, it's a very cool club.

M1NT Hong Kong, 108 Hollywood Road, Tel: +852 2168 0604

SHOPPING:

Shopping is one of Hong Kong's premiere attractions. With very low rates of tax (including VAT sales tax), many of the brands you find here are much cheaper than at home.

Hong Kong is a great place for tailored suits. I can highly recommend Sam's Tailor, where I picked up a jacket and skirt in merino wool for about a quarter of the price I would have paid in London (or Berlin). I also got to sketch out my own design.

Sam's Tailor: Burlington Arcade 'K', 92-94 Nathan Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2367 9423 or 0363.

Herin Ching's designs at Fang Fong stand out from many of the boutiques in Soho. Very original and stylish dresses and accessories. It's pretty pricey, but the perfect place to pick up something special.

fang fong, 67a Peel Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 3105 5557

MASSAGE:

There are places to get a massage on practically every street corner. Healthy Foot just off Lang Kwai Fong does a great foot massage. Or, for a treat, head to the Landmark Mandarin Oriental in The Landmark building on Queen's Street Central. HK$450 (€37) will buy an amazing 30 minute back and shoulder massage, and you can also spend time relaxing in the sauna, steam room, jacuzzi and relaxation room. This spa introduced me to water flavoured with slices of orange - it tastes great!

Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen's Road Central, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong +852 2132 0011

Healthy Foot: Flat/RM 1001 Lan Kwai Fong, Tak Woo House, 1-3 Wo On Lane, Central Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2537 3098.

WALKING:

For such a big city, it's unbelievably easy and quick to escape from Hong Kong to the countryside. I did one day-hike on Lantau Island with a company called Walk Hong Kong. It started at the Big Budda, went through beautiful woods, hills and peaks, and finished at Tai-O fishing village. It was a pretty demanding walk (there are easier ones to choose from), and very hot on the day I went, but well worth it, and the guide was great. The price of the trip included lunch and transport costs, but it didn’t come cheap at HK$750.00 (€50).

The Dragon’s Back is a fun, unstrenuous walk that's easy to reach by bus or taxi from Central. It's so called because it consists of two hills, shaped like a dragon’s back. The walk is in Shek O national park, and the trail is well-marked. Shek O beach is also a great place to chill out and have lunch. You can stop off at Stanley Market on the way home and go shopping. Perfect.

There's plenty of chow in the Big Mango and it's cheap, delicious and super fresh. Here's a handful of recently discovered gems.

DECK BY THE RIVER, ARUN RESIDENCE

What? Great food on a luscious wooden deck above the Choapraya River. Deck by the River overlooks the mighty Wat Arun so you can soak up some culture whilst you wolf down your lunch. What could be better? Choose from a Thai or a Western menu. Delicious spring rolls, tom kha gai and salads. 1000 baht ($30) for lunch for two.

Where? 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road; +66 2221 9158.

LE LYS

What? Simple, filling, good Thai food washed down with cold Singha beer (no wines available). Sit on tables around a grassy courtyard amidst posters of the 2007 French rugby team and St. Tropez. One guidebook says it feels more like a dinner party here than a restaurant, and it's easy to see why, Ly Lys is a very laidback, friendly place.

We gorged on spicy carrot salad, aubergine and shrimp salad, green curry and red curry, plus plenty of Singha for 845 baht ($26).

Where? 104 Soi 7, Th Narathiwat Ratchanakharin; +66 2287 1898.

EAT ME

What? Slick and sexy, this "art restaurant" is both hip and delicious. Enjoy great Australian / Pacific Rim food on an outdoor terrace cooled by overhead fans, or sit inside underneath work by Bangkok artists.

Wet your whistle with a cocktail then dive straight into the starters; we chose mountain bread nachos with salsa and lentil and sesame soup. No rest for the wicked, next up was a feta, lentil, green been, tomato and paprika salad and salmon steak with capers, broad beans and lemon zest pulp.

All this and a good wine list. 2,700 baht ($83) for two people, two courses, plus wine.

Where? 1/6 Soi Pipat 2, a small street off of Convent Rd. just south of Silom Rd; +66 2238 0931.

BED SUPPERCLUB

What? Super stylish space-esq party pod. A favourite amongst well-healed expats with surprisingly good food. 1,750 baht ($54) buys you a three course set menu and entertainment galore.

Tomato and coriander soup was chased in by a waitress dressed as a rat (it being Chinese New Year). Then came a duck salad accompanied my Monsieur and Madame Massage who, for 200 baht, pummel your pressure points and ease away your aches. A quick rubdown was followed by sirloin steak then a mango, ginger and pomegranate sorbet. One treasure hunt later and in came a chocolate brownie with ice-cream and raspberries. The meal was rounded off by dragon dancers and acrobats performing vertigo-inducing feats to celebrate the year of the rat.

Non-stop entertainment plus supine supping and, if you’re feeling really energetic, an adjoining club pumping out house music.

Where? 26 Soi 11, Th Sukhuvmit

THE BLUE ELEPHANT COOKING SCHOOL

What? Where better to master the art of Thai cuisine than in the country’s crazy capital? ½ day or whole day courses with menus that change daily. Visit a market, watch fish have their heads ripped off and meet water beetles that smell of mangoes, go back to the school and get stuck in. Four courses, four classes, four chances to cook it yourself. When it’s all over you go downstairs and feast on the fruits of your labour.

Where? 233 Th Sathon Tai; +66 2673 9353; ½ day classes cost 3,250 baht.

Rip up your road safety rulebook, get ready to step into on-coming traffic and prepare for a LOT of ding for your dong, we’re off to Ho Chi Minh City.

Here’s the lowdown on a 36 hour, whistle stop tour of old Saigon:

FRIDAY

6pm, The New World Hotel: not the most glam of destinations, but the city’s first 5* hotel. Decent sized rooms, good bathrooms and a comfy bed. 500m away from tourist-ridden Ben Thanh Market.

7pm, Club Camargue: French food and great wine on a palm-fringed, candle-lit terrace. From smoked salmon to lamb shanks with artichokes to nutella crème brûlée, everything was delicious. $50 for two people, 3 courses plus wine. 16 Cao Ba Quat, 824 3148. Dinner only.

9:30pm, Vasco’s bar: Live music and pool tables in the courtyard directly below Club Camargue. What could be more convenient?! Watch out though, the whole operation is moving soon. As above.

11pm, Q Bar: Underneath the Municipal Theatre is slick Q Bar. A bit too cool for school, but fun to have drinks on Lam Son Square and soak up colonial architecture at the same time. 7 Lam Son Sq, 823 7699.

SATURDAY

9am, War Remnants Museum: Not for the faint-hearted. Graphic photographs, war memorabilia and malformed foetuses; a poignant insight into the horrors of Vietnam’s wars with the French and Americans.

10:15am, Reunification Palace: One look at this white elephant was enough to put me off touring its insides. Apparently there’s lots of interesting period kitsch and propaganda there however.

11am, Hôtel de Ville: A stroll past and gaze up at the fairytale, wedding-cake style old town hall. Now home to The People’s Committee. A stone’s throw from the Ho Chi Minh City Museum if you’ve got time to explore the city’s history.

11:10am, L’Apothiquaire: Oh la la! Homemade rubs and scrubs going for a song at this aromatherapy spa. Handmade products from Bordeaux at prices the French can only dream of - $4.50 for a lemongrass-scented salt scrub. Merci beaucoup. 63 Le Thanh Ton, 822 1218.

11:30, Nga: Lovely lacquer. Right next door to L’Apothiquaire.

11:40, Notre Dame Cathedral: A red bricked beauty in the middle of the city. Doesn't look a thing like its Parisian cousin, but who cares. If you're here on a Sunday, and so inclined, there's mass in English. If you're there don't miss the Post Office next door.

11:35 – 12:30, Dong Khoi: This is where the French used to strut their stuff and it’s easy to see why. Still home to chic boutiques and international designer labels. Very easy to while away an hour deciding whether that lacquer bowl or those buffalo horn salad servers would actually look good at home.

12:45, Temple Club: Fantastic Vietnamese food in this retro indo-chine salon. No MSG, fresh Pho soups and amazing spring rolls (amongst countless other temptations). Exposed brickwork, latticed wooden archways, Vietnamese lamps, original tiles and best of all, if you like some of their furniture, you can make them an offer to buy it. Would be a great place for dinner too. $25 for two people, 2 courses and soft drinks. 29 Ton That Thiep, 829 9244.

1:45 – 2:15, Ton That Thiep: Some great shops on this more off-the-beaten-track road. Try Gaya (#30) for homeware, linen, fashion and furniture, but get your credit card out because it doesn’t come cheap. Appeal (#41 and #33) has great eggshell lacquerware, from photo frames to floor lamps.

2:45pm, Ben Thanh Market: Hold onto your wallet, this is pickpocket heaven. If you can handle the throngs this is a good place to pick up a bargain. Traditional Vietnamese lanterns, ceramics and the backpacker must-have, Tiger Beer t-shirts. Towards the back is the wet market if you can’t hack the hassle.

3:15pm, pool time: need a nap? So did I. Ho Chi Minh is 30 degrees in Feb so why not soak up some sun?

5pm, Emperor Jade Pagoda: Incensed-filled Cantonese-built temple. Touted as the most interesting in town. If you’ve seen a lot of temples before and are tight for time I wouldn’t make the 30 min journey. There’s a nice temple garden though, which offers a welcome respite from the frenetic city.

7pm, Dong Du: Just off Dong Khoi is this quieter, bar and restaurant filled street. We stopped for drinks at Qing, a wine bar with Asian tapas, and were serenaded by dragon dancers gearing up for the Tết festival.

7:40pm, Thann and Harnn: Walking to dinner can be so distracting, especially when another amazing spa shop crops up. Scented candles and fragrant lotions in this little Aladdin’s cave. Jo Malone, eat your heart out. 23 Dong Du, 827 2008.

8pm, Nam Kha: Allegedly one of the city’s best Vietnamese restaurants, but actually where Donatella Versace met Laura Ashley and it all went hideously wrong. Perhaps the food is fantastic, but I wasn’t going to sit by the reflection pool to find out.

8:30pm, The Refinery: An oasis of simplicity and deliciousness in a courtyard near the Hôtel de Ville. Arriving at this French-owned restaurant is like stumbling into a secret garden; illuminated by candles and fairylights the restaurant sits on the ground floor of a yellow colonial house with a terracotta roof and wooden eaves. With a menu that would make Provence proud and a wine list to match, this is a great place to come for a glimpse of how the city must have been when the French were still in town. It was so hard to leave that we didn’t until we had to, sipping red wine and watching girls in traditional ao dais walk past. Around $60 for two people, 3 courses and (lots of) wine. 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, 823 0509.