A Week in Jordan: Two wives, "not-quite-Wadi Rum" and a human-sized hot water bottle

Posted by Emma Torry on August 13, 2009 at 05:10 PM

By Ross Bowers

Morocco made me slightly hesitant to go on another holiday in an Arab country – the happy snaps look idyllic, but they don't reveal the heat, hassle, snorting and swindling going on just out of shot. Nevertheless, I was intrigued by Petra and the Dead Sea and thought a trip to Jordan was an opportunity not to be missed.

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Travelling with two pretty girls added to my trepidation about heading back to North Africa as I adopted the self-aggrandising role of guardian of the two blondes.

'Would you like to buy a necklace for your tall wife?'

'No thank you very much'

'How about for your short wife?'

Confused and envious eyes followed me everywhere and I was on red alert for phlegm assaults, pick pockets and devious taxi drivers. I was worrying unnecessarily – the girls are tougher than me, the Jordanian people are kind and honest, and the country is clean and well organised. The best bit about travelling to Jordan is that most of the sights can be covered in a week; the tourist circuit is fairly well trodden so getting around is easy and there are always people to share transport with.

We landed in the bustling metropolis of Amman, spending a couple of nights there whilst visiting the ancient ruins at Jerash before hotfooting it down to Petra along the King's Highway, a rich chain of historical and archaeological sites. We stopped at Madaba, the 'City of Mosaics', Mount Nebo (which, according to the final chapter of Deuteronomy, is where Moses was given a view of the Promised Land), and the fortified town and castle of Karak.

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Petra alone makes the trip to Jordan worthwhile; one of the seven wonders of the modern world, it is a vast city, carved into the red rock by the Nabataeans more than 2,000 years ago. It was an important hub for the silk, spice and other trade routes that linked China, India and southern Arabia with Egypt, Syria, Greece and Rome.

Since Petra was featured in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, the locals have gone a little Indiana crazy with most stalls offering some sort of Harrison Ford souvenirs. But it is hard not to be transported to another era as speeding horses gallop past, weaving their way through colonnaded streets to the treasury, temples, sacrificial altars and eventually the Monastery up 800 rock cut steps. Camels and donkeys provide every opportunity for some amusing photos along the way.

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Next stop was the desert and towering rock formations of Wadi Rum - Lawrence of Arabia's headquarters during the Arab Revolt against the Ottomans (1917 – 1918). Here we experienced our first bit of swindling.

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Wadi Rum itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is actually a fenced reserve. Several tour operators however, take you just outside of the site, put you up in sub-standard tented camps and drive you around in jeeps pretending that you are in the real Wadi Rum. Thankfully they are so convincing that we enjoyed the experience in blissful ignorance – only realising later that we had visited 'not-quite-Wadi Rum'. Our suspicions were only aroused when we realised that we were the only guests staying in our tented camp.

The next day we witnessed the breathtaking beauty of the Dana Nature Reserve (where the Feynan Eco Lodge and project is excellent) en route to two nights at the Marriott Dead Sea Resort and Spa for the luxury finale to the holiday.

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The lowest point on earth, the Dead Sea, is a marvel – the health benefits of the sea itself and the mud are well known and we quickly covered ourselves in mud and floated whilst reading a newspaper. Hours of amusement: until you get sea water in your eyes.

I tried out the most unique Dead Sea treatment I could find, a mud / wrap / flotation, which turned out to be the worst hour of my life. I was greeted by a large Jordanian man, given a pathetic pair of paper undies, covered in mud, wrapped in cling film and then engulfed in a human-sized hot water bottle with only my head sticking out for air. Large Jordanian man then left so that I could 'relax' / suffer from acute claustrophobia. It was so hot that the mud and sweat dripped in to my eyes and since I was in a cling film straight-jacket there wasn't much I could do about it.

After that experience I decided to stick to eating and drinking. Just about any cuisine is available in Jordan, and if you can avoid the drive through Starbucks there are some great dishes to try out. I particularly enjoyed the Mansaf, which is a Bedouin dish consisting of rice, a rich broth made from dry sour milk (jameed), and either lamb or chicken. Simple, but tasty.

On our final morning, the maître d' welcomed us to breakfast with a cheerful 'It's nice to be here', um – I think you mean 'It's nice to have you here', but it was nice to be there - Jordan is an amazing country where you can relax and enjoy a real sense of adventure and cultural learning at the same time.

Photos by Ross Bowers, except Bedouin Man by hazy jenius, Wadi Rum by Tbass Effendi and Dead Sea Reflection by Mr. Kris via Flickr.

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Going to Hell and Back on Grand Cayman

Posted by Emma Torry on August 06, 2009 at 04:18 PM

By Connie Motz

In the Caribbean, tucked underneath Cuba and only 100 square miles in total, lie the three Cayman Islands – Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac, and Little Cayman.

The Cayman Islands maintain a high standard of living and are known for their abundance of white sand beaches and endless water sports, including snorkelling and world class scuba diving.

With many shore excursion options available for the first time visitor, it can visiting the Caymans be overwhelming but there is a certain draw in being able to say you've been to Hell and back.

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Located mid-island on Grand Cayman, Hell is a town with hardly any inhabitants – there are a few souvenir stores and the all important post office; nothing like sending a card back home from Hell just to prove you've survived.

Shore excursions label Hell as a town "featuring a pre-historical rock formation that some think Hell must surely look like." A viewing platform leads visitors to see shards of black limestone jutting out of the lifeless darkened ground as if it were the remains of a volcanic hell fire.

The ancient geological formation of jagged rocks is surrounded by dark and gloomy waters presenting an ominous, almost sinister scene. Educational guides explain that the rocks are a combination of iron shore (a type of dolomite) and limestone estimated at being 1.5 million years old.

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The razor-sharp blackened rock appears to be volcanic in nature but is only coated in dark algae. The somewhat horrific landscape of Hell is framed by lush green mangroves and palm trees reminding visitors that the true beauty of the island still exists.

Everyone is invited to take the token tacky tourist picture with the cardboard cut-out devil. Postcards and other souvenirs are available for purchase with sayings like "I've been to Hell and back" and "HFD – Hell Fire Department."

Many visitors to Grand Cayman will experience a trip to Hell and will live to tell the tale.

Photo Credits: Welcome to Hell by J. Stephen Conn, Hell's Rocks by Connie Motz.

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See Angkor in Style – Luxury Tours of the Khmer Kingdom

Posted by Emma Torry on May 06, 2009 at 03:58 PM

"Ruins of such grandeur... that, at the first view, one is filled with profound admiration" – Henri Mouhot

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If you've ever been to a Bikram Yoga class you'll be well prepared for visiting Angkor Wat and its surrounding temples on foot. It is a sweaty, dusty, exhausting (albeit exhilarating!) process. If you've got the budget and the inclination why not see Angkor in style and avoid the heat, the hordes and the habitual way of doing things?

Option 1: Tour Angkor in a Vintage Citroën

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Tie on that headscarf and don your driving gloves because this Angkor tour est très, très chic. Choose from a 1927 or 1928 B14 Torpedo then decide on either a half or full day of sightseeing. The "Classic Tour" takes you to Angkor Thom, Bayon and the Terrace of Elephants and the Leper King in the morning and then onto Angkor Wat for the afternoon, topped off with sunset on Phnom Bakheng. If you're feeling more intrepid, the "L'Explorateur" tour takes you to the farther flung temples of Koh Ker and Beng Melea, which are much quieter than those around Angkor Wat.

Book the tour with the Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa. An eight hour full day tour costs USD 250 (+10% tax) per car and a four hour half day tour costs USD 150 (+ 10% tax) per car. The cars take a maximum of 3 people.

Option 2: Tour Angkor by Helicopter

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Indulge in a scenic helicopter ride over the Khmer Kingdom and luxuriate in magnificent Angkor Wat from on high. No tour groups, no humidity, no dust, just you, the helicopter and the stunning scenery below. Bliss. The altitude means you can truly take in the scale of Angkor's architectural wonders. You'll also see Tonle Sap Lake and the floating villages and fishing boats.

Costs from USD 51 per person. For more information click here.

Option 3: Tour Angkor by Hot Air Balloon

Henri Mouhot might be turning in his grave at the thought of this Angkor tour. Where he had to battle with jungle, leeches and leopards to get a prized temple view you can just cruise serenely to 200 metres as Angkor unfolds beneath you. Your birds-eye view covers major league players such as Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Phnom Bakheng and Tonle Sap Lake, plus many other smaller treasures. The balloon is helium filled, silent, non-polluting and tethered. No scary balloon bursting incidents for you here!

The balloon goes up thirty times per day between sunrise and sunset. For more information and booking call +855 12 520810 or email sokhasr@camintel.com.

Photo Credits: Sunrise Discovery of Angkor Wat by Stuck in Customs; Vintage Citroen via Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa; Angkor Wat from the Helicopter by petergarnhum; Angkor Wat by jurvetson.

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Yo-Ho-Homeless: Finland sells Santa's home

Posted by Emma Torry on March 25, 2009 at 05:14 PM

(Helsinki-AFP)

Finland's recession-hit government said Tuesday it had sold its stake in Santapark, a Christmas theme park in the northern city of Rovaniemi, widely considered the home of Father Christmas.

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Around 500,000 tourists visit the city of Rovaniemi near the Arctic circle every year to see Santa Claus and his wintry wonderland theme park, although numbers dipped last year and are expected to fall further this year.

"The value of the deal is not disclosed, because the state did not wish to publish it," Ilkka Laenkinen, managing director at local tourism company Santa's Holding which bought the government's 32-percent stake, told AFP.

The government did not say why it was selling its stake, although a spokesman told the STT news agency the park, which has sometimes struggled to make ends meet since it opened just over a decade ago, would be in better hands under private ownership.

Santa's Holding now owns nearly 56 percent of shares after the city of Rovaniemi and travel company Lapin Matkailu also decided to sell their stakes. The remainder of the shares are held by diverse small owners.

Laenkinen said Santa's Holding was determined to invest in the park and would increase marketing to boost sales and visibility despite the slump.

"In the long term we want to give more experiences to visitors," he said.

Photo Credit: ©AFP/GAEL BRANCHEREAU

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How to skip the line at the Vatican Museums

Posted by Emma Torry on March 24, 2009 at 11:40 AM

If you've ever heard about or experienced the slow torture of queuing to buy tickets to the Vatican Museums then rejoice. It's now possible to book your tickets online.

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The Vatican Museums are among the most impressive museums in the world. Founded by Pope Julius II in the 16th century, they include paintings by Caravaggio, Leonardo da Vinci's portrait of Saint Jerome and, of course, the Sistine Chapel.

The Vatican Museums have over 4 million visitors a year, so online ticket booking really is a blessing! You can access the booking site here.

Photo Credit: Rainy line to Vatican Museum by wfbakker2 via Flickr (Creative Commons).

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Top Easter Holiday Destinations

Posted by Emma Torry on March 18, 2009 at 06:17 PM

With three weeks to go until Easter, now is the perfect time to snap up a last-minute deal to one of the world's top Easter holiday destinations.

To inspire you, we've put together a guide to the top Easter breaks for 2009. So stop planning this year's Easter egg hunt and start packing your suitcase for a fantastic Easter holiday!

ANTIGUA, CARIBBEAN:

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What: Join Eric Clapton, Oprah Winfrey and Giorgio Armani this Easter and holiday in style on the stunning island of Antigua. What better place to put your Lenten restrictions behind you than on beaches of soft white sand, under a hot sun and in perfect azure waters? The average April temperature in Antigua is a gorgeous 26°C / 79°F.

Why: Jaw-dropping beaches, colonial splendour, wonderful weather and a fantastic atmosphere. Stick around for the week after Easter and ogle open-mouthed at the big, fat classic yachts as they come out to play for the annual Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta (16 – 21 April).

Where: Stay at the super-stylish Inn at English Harbour hotel for the perfect blend of Colonial style luxury and contemporary comfort.

Wow: LHR – Antigua: 2 roundtrip tickets and 6 nights at Inn at English Harbour from USD 6697; LAX - Antigua: 2 roundtrip tickets and 6 nights at Inn at English Harbour from USD 5018; JFK – Antigua: 2 roundtrip tickets and 6 nights at Inn at English Harbour from USD 4886.*

OMAN

What: From souks to ancient sights to snorkelling to sandy beaches, Oman offers opulence, indulgence, adventure and luxury. Muscat, Oman's capital, boasts some seriously impressive hotels in stunning beach locations. Fashionistas and bargain hunters can go crazy in the city's markets, culture vultures can spend days soaking up the impressive sights and adrenaline junkies can dune buggy and scuba dive.

Why: There's something for everyone: jagged mountains, lush valleys, dramatic dunes, empty beaches, superb snorkelling, vibrant souks, camel racing and incredible history and culture. Easter temptation indeed...

Where: Al Bustan Palace Hotel, Muscat. Set against a dramatic mountain backdrop on 200 acres of private beach and lush green gardens, the Al Bustan Palace Hotel has a reputation as the best hotel in the Middle East and one of the finest hotels in the world.

Wow: Return flights from LHR – Muscat from USD 494 per person; from LAX – Muscat from USD 1558 per person; from JFK – Muscat from USD 1077 per person.*

PHUKET, THAILAND

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What: One of the world's best known beach destinations, and dubbed the "Pearl of the South", Phuket is swanky and seductive in equal measures. It's a place to dive in azure seas, lounge at chic beach resorts, sip cocktails and soak up the glitz and glamour.

Why: Bargains are easy to find at Phuket's glam resorts and beachside villas and can be bagged, last-minute for hundreds of dollars less than their normal rates. If you're after a luxury Easter break on a moderate budget, this is the destination for you.

Where: If you want glitz on a relative shoestring then opt for Indigo Pearl. The resort offers very decent accommodation, great hotel pools and is located on Nai Yang Beach on Phuket's northwest shore. For a chic boutique hotel and trendy vibe opt for the ever-popular Twinpalms Phuket. Located right next to Thailand's 'millionaires' cove', the hotel's beach is a great site to spot celebrities.

Wow: From LHR – Phuket: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 5463 at Indigo Pearl and from USD 8994 at Twinpalms Phuket; From LAX – Phuket: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 3722 at Indigo Pearl and from USD 6844 at Twinpalms Phuket; From JFK – Phuket: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 8094 at Indigo Pearl and from USD 11638 at Twinpalms Phuket*.

SANTORINI, GREECE

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What: Arguably Greece's most romantic and spectacular island, Santorini offers a very local and authentic Greek Orthodox Easter experience. Spend the days leading up to Easter on a private yacht and exploring the Santorini's famous volcano "the caldera". Join in with the islanders' Easter celebrations and processions. Enjoy the Easter feasting and taste the incredible local lamb. On Easter Monday make the most of the local flora and visit Santorini's local vineyards.

Why: Stunning scenery, amazing hikes, beautiful beaches and fantastic weather, plus the experience of joining in with local Easter celebrations and traditions.

Where: La Meduse Santorini. Bang slap on Perivolos Beach, the island's longest sandy strip, this whitewashed boutique hotel occupies a Cycladic-style property and boasts crisp, fresh rooms.

Wow: From LHR – Santorini: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation at La Meduse (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 1817; From LAX – Santorini: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation at La Meduse (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 4938; From JFK – Santorini: 2 roundtrip tickets and 7 nights accommodation at La Meduse (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 3145*.

SEVILLE, SPAIN

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What: Passion and devotion combine in this fiery Spanish city and Semana Santa (Easter week) is one of the most exciting times to visit. Seville has hosted Easter celebrations for four centuries, and they are universally famous. Around 50,000 parade through the city's streets in traditional costumes during Seville's 58 organised processions. Expect to be wowed by religious statues, music, embroidered cloaks and velvet tunics.

Why: It goes without saying that Seville is one of Europe's most impressive cities. Moorish architecture, flamenco and bullfighting take centre stage in this stunning city. A long Easter weekend in Seville promises to be an unforgettable experience.

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Where: Hotel San Gil. Housed in a restored 19th-century building, Hotel San Gil's preserved mosaics echo Seville's Moorish past. Just one kilometre from Seville's historic centre, Hotel San Gil is perfectly located for all the Easter action.

Wow: LHR – Seville: 2 roundtrip tickets and 4 nights accommodation at Hotel San Gil (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 2205; JFK – Seville: 2 roundtrip tickets and 4 nights accommodation at Hotel San Gil (based on 2 adults sharing) from USD 2388*.

We hope this answers your questions about what to do at Easter, where the best Easter holiday destinations are and how to plan an Easter trip. Have a great time!

*All prices correct at the time of going to print.

Photo Credits: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 all via Flickr (Creative Commons).

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Vamos a Valencia: Hot Tips for Eating, Drinking and Sightseeing

Posted by Emma Torry on December 23, 2008 at 06:31 PM

By Harriet Torry

Valencia, the regional capital of the Comunidad Valenciana (Valencia region) is probably best known for its oranges, tomato throwing festival (in nearby Buñol) and sailing. Not to be overlooked though are the city's buzzing culinary scene and its diverse Christian / Muslim heritage.

Eating and Drinking

The menu del día at Espita Gorgorita is excellent and, at 12 euros, good value for money. Great croquetas. The restaurant has trendy decoration, helpful staff and pavement tables overlooking the Plaza Tossal – a good place for people-watching.

Espita Gorgorita, Plaza San Jaime 3, 46001 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 925 835

Casa Mario was best restaurant I visited in Valencia. Fresh, regional dishes, excellent tapas - especially the asparagus a la plancha (griddled asparagus) - and the staff were friendly and knowledgeable about wine. Highly recommended, and popular.

Casa Mario, Calle Roteros 3, 46003, Valencia; Tel: +34 963 92 44 52

La Marcelina is a good paella restaurant on the Paseo Neptuno waterfront. The décor is a bit 1980s and, in typical Spanish style, it's got bright lighting and uncomfortable chairs, but the food makes it worth it.

La Marcelina, Paseo de Neptuno 8, 46011, Valencia; Tel: +34 963 712 025

Vivir sin Dormir is a trendy bar / restaurant just up the beach from La Marcelina.

Vivir Sin Dormir, Paseo de Neptuno 42, 46011 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 727 777; Fax: +34 963 559 275; www.vivirsindormir.com

The guide books lavish praise on Bar Pilar, but I was underwhelmed. I didn't try their famous mussels, but I thought the bean tapas was overcooked, and the squid too chewy. The staff weren't very welcoming, and they forgot part of my order.

Bar Pilar, Calle Moro Zeit 13, Valencia

Culture

When your feet are weary from sightseeing, you can catch a movie in its original English version at the Babel or Albatros cinemas . The Albatros cinema is a bit out of the way on Fray Luis Colomer 4, but only a five euro taxi ride from the city centre.

There are two works by Diego Velazquez in the Museo de Bellas Artes - a self-portrait and eerie monk lying in state - which makes the trip alone worth it. There are also works by Goya, Jose de Ribera and van Dyck, and a lovely courtyard.

Museo De Bellas Artes De Valencia, Calle San Pío V nº 9, 46010 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 870 300; Fax: +34 963 870 301; www.cult.gva.es

The IVAM (Institut Valencià d'Art Modern) is a snazzy building with interesting temporary exhibitions. If you don't have time to see the City of Arts and Sciences, then this is a good place to check out some modern Valencian architecture.

IVAM, Calle Guillem De Castro 118, 46003 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 863 000; Fax: +34 963 921 094; www.ivam.es

The Botanical Garden (entrance 1 euro) is an oasis in the heart of the city. It was originally conceived as a medicinal herbal garden for the university, and now it's also a very peaceful place to hang out.

Jardí Botànic (Botanical Garden), Calle de Quart 80, 46008 Valencia; Tel: +34 963 15 68 00; Fax: +34 963 15 68 26; www.jardibotanic.org

All images by Harriet Torry

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A DIY Tour of Beijing's New Architectural Stars

Posted by Emma Torry on August 21, 2008 at 04:17 PM

By Stephan Larose for ChinaTravel.net

A self-guided tour of Beijing's new architectural marvels, from the Bird's Nest to the Egg to the Cube to the Wingless Dragon and beyond....

If you've been paying any attention to China at all in the past year, you've no doubt caught the hype on the Discovery Channel's Extreme Engineering or in countless newspaper and magazine articles. Beijing—long famed for ancient classics of Chinese architecture, from the Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven to the Great Wall — has been boldly remaking itself with one futuristic architectural statement building after another, inviting the world's most innovative starchitects to make their marks.

If you're in Beijing for the Olympics or just for a visit, you'll want to check out the city's new cast of starchitect-designed buildings, from the Egg to the Bird's Nest and beyond. But there's no need to line up a tour guide—here at ChinaTravel.net, we've got you covered with a quick outline for an independent self-guided tour of Beijing's newest architectural marvels. All you'll need is a pair of walking shoes, a bottle of water, change for the subway and, of course, your camera!

Norman Foster's Wingless Dragon, Beijing's Terminal 3

That's right, you've just gotten off the plane and already you're there! Another building in a long line of made-in-China world's __est structures, this one, a glass and steel dragon of unprecedented size, is touted as the largest and most advanced airport building in the world.

Jaw-droppingly vast in scale, Terminal 3's most impressive fact may be the speed with which this monster was put up. Bigger than all of London's Heathrow terminals combined (and perhaps 1,000 times as efficient and 500 times less obnoxious), Beijing's Terminal 3 went up in less time than it took just to conduct Heathrow Terminal Five's planning inquiry, making it a tribute to central planning and to the steely determination of the 50,000 workers responsible for finishing it in time to welcome hordes of Olympics tourists.

Terminal 3's 3.25 km of feng-shui-friendly red and gold concourses perfectly match the dominant colours of Beijing's prize attractions, the Summer Palace and the Forbidden City—a respectful gesture to China's past and traditions. Looking forward, by 2020 the terminal is expected to process over 50 million passengers a year. Think that's enough to handle China's growing share of air traffic? Think again—there are plans to build a staggering 96 more airports throughout the country, though it's a safe bet that none will rival the jewel of Beijing Capital's crown.

After taking a look around, hop onto the newly opened Airport Express subway and take it to the first stop: Sanyuanqiao Station (this is assuming you don't need to hit the hotel and sleep off a transcontinental flight—if you're into contemporary architecture, we recommend checking out one of the following new hotels: the Kempinski's Commune by the Great Wall or the Hotel Kapok).

Disembark and transfer to Line 10, heading to Bagou Station. Keep your eyes peeled—you'll want to get off at Beitucheng Station, which exits onto the opening of the massive Olympic Green and the site of your next superstar buildings, and perhaps the most recognizable of them all.

The Bird's Nest (Niaochao) and Watercube (Shuilifang)

The Olympic Greens, Beijing's newest urban parkland, are great for walking and sightseeing — they're full of Olympic-themed sculpture, art and fun rest spots. To get to the Bird's Nest, walk north on Beichen Lu, and soon you'll see it on your right with the Watercube on your left.

The Bird's Nest — officially known as Beijing National Stadium — is easily the most iconic of Beijing's Olympic structures. It's hosting all Olympic track and field events and Beijing football matches (Shanghai Stadium will also see some football action), all to be played before crowds of 100,000. If you're among them, you'll be one of the privileged few to appreciate Herzog and deMeuron's architectural masterpiece up close.

Monstrous steel elements weighing up to 350 tons a piece have been intertwined in a way that actually makes this gargantuan structure look delicate. The building has received both praise and criticism for its unconventional and potentially risky design — over 70% of the building's weight hangs over the audience's head.

Critics notwithstanding, there's no doubt the Bird's Nest represents a massive accomplishment for the Chinese. As an architectural marvel, an unmistakable landmark and an iconic Olympic image, it will undoubtedly be a source of pride for years to come.

The Watercube, although less grandiose in scale, almost manages to upstage its neighbour. A childlike simplicity and enchanting bubble motif mask an incredibly sophisticated design. The builders, a consortium of Chinese and Australian firms, employed a quasi-magical material called ETFE, a species of teflon, to give the cube its bubblicious glam quotient.

Designed to react to changing light conditions, it's the material responsible for the Water Cube's stunning visual effects, which are best viewed at night. The walls, which capture up to 90% of ambient and solar heat, slowly shift through a range of colours. It's almost enough to make you forget that the action is inside, not outside the building.

After you're done taking in these two Olympic icons, hop on to the subway and head back down to Beitucheng Station, where you'll transfer back to Line 10, this time heading in the opposite direction, towards Jinsong Station. Exit at Jintaixizhao Station. When you exit, make your way north along the East Third Ring North Road, and you'll see building four of your tour almost immediately.

Rem Koolhass's Twisted Masterpiece: The CCTV National HQ

The new CCTV headquarters is undoubtedly the world's most unconventional high rise, and, like the Bird's Nest and Wingless Dragon, it's already earned itself a few amusing nicknames, including the dakucha or the "big pants" and the less flattering, but more literally accurate, waiqu dalou (歪曲大楼) or "twisted building," with a heavy implication of "twisted news," though we honestly can't imagine why the home of China's state television media would warrant such a sour sobriquet.

Sure, there's lots of controversy surrounding this gravity-defying behemoth, but one thing is certain: this building cements Beijing's reputation as a global centre for experimental architectural design. The alarming angles and bending bridge section may seem chancy for earthquake-prone Beijing, but the design incorporates a massive encapsulating grid of diagonal beams that thicken around stress points to minimize the risk.

For the less sceptical, the building's eyebrow-raising design represents a consciousness shift away from the rigid mindsets of careful control of social order towards something more improvisational and open minded. Check it out: you be the judge (note , however, that any change in mindset hasn't extended to the interior of this fabulous building, which remains closed to any but CCTV employees and special guests).

After snapping a few pics you'll want to hop back on the metro and head south (same direction as before) and transfer to Line 1 at Guomao Station. Head west towards Pinguoyuan and get off at Tian'anmen West. This is the last stop on your tour, right in Beijing's cultural heart, near Tian'anmen Square and the Forbidden City. So once you're done admiring the new National Centre for the Performing Arts, you'll be able to join the tourist throngs wandering Beijing's most famed ancient landmarks.

Paul Andrew's Egg

Many visitors will probably find this to be Beijing's prettiest new structure, with its smooth graceful lines and curves. Be that as it may, "the Egg" seems to be the building that's gotten the most flack from Beijingers. They've even called it huai dan, the "Rotten Egg," for disrupting Beijing's feng shui.

The architects mindfully incorporated the circle-and-square / heaven-and-earth theme present in so many pinnacles of Chinese culture, like the Summer Palace, but, if many locals are to be believed, they flubbed it. The Egg's square half thoroughly disrupts the concentric circles weaving out from the Forbidden City, and unfortunately, that's the motif around which all of Beijing was originally designed. People say it's an impostor and an alien monstrosity. And there is indeed a drastic contrast between this über-modern structure and that epitome of tradition sitting next door, the Forbidden City.

Still, despite all the local disparagement, many visitors are certain to fall in love with Paul Andrew's Egg. The sky is mirrored its semi-transparent, golden-netted glass walls, allowing onlookers outside to enjoy the play of colours as the lights of dawn and dusk interact with the building's massive titanium and glass shell

Now you're done with your tour of Beijing's 21st century icons, and, if you start early enough, you'll have time left to explore the city's older side, from Tian'anmen Square to the Forbidden City and Beihai Park.

Enjoy!

All images © ChinaTravel.net

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Shot of the Day

Posted by Emma Torry on August 19, 2008 at 02:32 PM

We're big fans of Trey Ratcliff's blog Stuck in Customs. Here's a shot of Wat Arun in Bangkok.

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Of this shot, Trey says, "This picture is of Wat Arun, a famous Buddhist temple in Thailand. I took it from a really cool little Italian restaurant across the way that is attached to a boutique hotel named "Arun Residence". I will stay at this place next time - be sure to get the balcony room at the top if you come... it's just over $100 a night."

We also highly recommend the Arun Residence for lunch (especially their papaya salad) and it looked like a great hotel too. Sadly our photos of Wat Arun from the hotel's deck aren't a patch on this one.

For more photos of Wat Arun click here.

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The stuff of Parisian fantasies

Posted by Emma Torry on July 24, 2008 at 02:35 PM

Everyone has a Paris that they fantasise about. Some dream of dining in candlelit bistros, others hanker after markets heaving with cheeses and warm baguettes, perhaps you imagine getting lost in a maze of old streets, stumbling upon delicious patisseries and hidden courtyards.

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The sad truth is that whatever your particular Paris fantasy is, it's hard to find in reality. The City of Lights is a big and busy capital: tourists swarm, noses in guidebooks, from The Louvre to the Musée d'Orsay to the Eiffel Tower to the Champs Elysees to Montmartre. Getting off the beaten track is no mean feat. Many of the city's rarest treats are almost impossible to find, eluding even the most avid of guidebook writers behind unassuming doors.

So, what if for €175, less than the cost of a pair of Parisian Louboutins, you could find your fantasy? Richard Nahem, a native New Yorker, has been living in Paris for three years with one mission: to show people the city he loves and the one that tourists seldom see. From the moment he made the move to France he was inundated with requests from friends and acquaintances to show people the "real" Paris and now he's made a business of it, Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which dovetails with the places that he features on his blog Eye Prefer Paris.

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Richard's tours cater to a maximum of 6ish people so you're guaranteed a personalised experience. Based on clients' interests tours take a specific theme – e.g. shopping, markets and gourmet food, architecture and culture. Standard tours (€175) last three hours, those looking for more can extend to a full day, three days or a week if needs be.

Most tours centre on the Marais district, Richard's home and area of expertise, which spreads across the third and fourth arrondissements. Le Marais is one of Paris's most impressive areas, packed with 16th and 17th century private mansions, secret courtyards, neighbourhood restaurants, outstanding patisseries and traditional ateliers. Unless you know where they are however they all too easy to miss, chances are you'll be swallowed up instead by the tourists who flock to the district's famous gay bars and kosher restaurants.

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Richard describes the perfect three hours in Paris as exploring the Place des Vosges (the oldest square in the city, dating back to 1605); stopping for a coffee and a pastry at one of the best patisseries in town; visiting a chocolate shop where you can buy all the chocolate sculptures you could ever dream of; uncovering a secret garden where wild roses grow unchecked; soaking up impressive 16th and 17th century architecture and exploring former private mansions.

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Food lovers can look forward to Paris's Bastille food market (the city's biggest), gourmet food shops and the inside scoop on where to eat. Die-hard shoppers will feel lightheaded at the prospect of speciality shops, exclusive to Paris, where you can pick up organic cosmetics, stashes of handcrafted jewellery, piles of pashminas and Parisian couture. Culture vultures can sate themselves on Richard's expert knowledge of the history behind the city's streets, buildings and gardens.

As Richard puts it, "I'm here to fulfil peoples' Paris fantasy" - everyone dreams about Paris and whether your version includes ateliers and authentic restaurants or palaces and patisseries, Richard's goal is to find you exactly what you've been looking for.

For more information on Richard's tours and to contact him please visit Eye Prefer Paris Tours.

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Finding Shangri-la in Kota Kinabalu

Posted by Emma Torry on May 20, 2008 at 05:28 PM

I was warned against expecting too much from Kota Kinabalu. Borneo is reputed to be a paradise, and the state capital of Kota Kinabalu the thorn in its side. Three days, four tropical islands, too many Piña Coladas and a lot of sleep later it's difficult to see KK as anything other than a diverse and underrated paradise.

Arriving in daylight hours it’s easy to concur with the negative opinions: on first sight, the town of Kota Kinabalu is no beauty. Landing under the cover of darkness, whisked to a luxurious hotel, handed a cocktail, and surrounded by the sounds of the South China Sea is, however, an altogether different experience.

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The hotel, The Tanjung Hotel Resort & Spa, was nothing like the rowdy resort I half expected. The bars and restaurants are airy and sophisticated, the rooms modern and supremely comfortable with amazing views across the sea to lush, tropical islands. The family crowds are easy to avoid – the pool area is vast with plenty of quiet corners, there’s a private beach and a brand new spa, Chi, which opened at the end of 2007.

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A stone’s throw from The Tanjung Hotel is Tunku Abdul Rahan National Park, 49 square kilometers of coral reefs and paradise islands. Those in search of tranquillity and untouched sands should make a beeline for Sulug, where there are quiet beaches and good reef for snorkelling. Manukan is a great island for beaches, walking trails, outdoor barbeques and more snorkelling.

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Fans of monitor lizards should head to Sapi, where dozens roam just behind the beach. Beach Bums Borneo operates speed boats to the islands hourly from The Tanjung Hotel’s jetty. A return journey costs 40 MYR.

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In the other direction lies the impressive Mount Kinabalu (4,095m). Not only is it one of the world’s most important biological sites, but it also gives adventure junkies a run for their money. Intrepid hikers can opt to spend a day and a half (which includes a night on the mountain) scaling the summit. The Tanjung Hotel can help to make hiking arrangements.

If hotel dining isn’t your thing, or you just want to get out and explore, the town centre is only a few minutes from Tanjung in a taxi. Good options include the food stalls in Central Market and Sedco Square for cheap and delicious open air restaurants. For something more upmarket try The Mediterranean Bar and Restaurant at First Beach.

Those who really want to get away from it all, and have longer than just a couple of days, can try The Tanjung Hotel’s sister resort, Rasa Ria, The Manukan Island Resort or Gayana Eco Resort. For a relaxing, easy weekend though you can’t do better than The Tanjung Hotel Resort & Spa.

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36 Hours in Ho Chi Minh City

Posted by Emma Torry on February 04, 2008 at 06:03 PM

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Rip up your road safety rulebook, get ready to step into on-coming traffic and prepare for a LOT of ding for your dong, we’re off to Ho Chi Minh City.

Here’s the lowdown on a 36 hour, whistle stop tour of old Saigon:

FRIDAY

6pm, The New World Hotel: not the most glam of destinations, but the city’s first 5* hotel. Decent sized rooms, good bathrooms and a comfy bed. 500m away from tourist-ridden Ben Thanh Market.

7pm, Club Camargue: French food and great wine on a palm-fringed, candle-lit terrace. From smoked salmon to lamb shanks with artichokes to nutella crème brûlée, everything was delicious. $50 for two people, 3 courses plus wine. 16 Cao Ba Quat, 824 3148. Dinner only.

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9:30pm, Vasco’s bar: Live music and pool tables in the courtyard directly below Club Camargue. What could be more convenient?! Watch out though, the whole operation is moving soon. As above.

11pm, Q Bar: Underneath the Municipal Theatre is slick Q Bar. A bit too cool for school, but fun to have drinks on Lam Son Square and soak up colonial architecture at the same time. 7 Lam Son Sq, 823 7699.

SATURDAY

9am, War Remnants Museum: Not for the faint-hearted. Graphic photographs, war memorabilia and malformed foetuses; a poignant insight into the horrors of Vietnam’s wars with the French and Americans.

10:15am, Reunification Palace: One look at this white elephant was enough to put me off touring its insides. Apparently there’s lots of interesting period kitsch and propaganda there however.

11am, Hôtel de Ville: A stroll past and gaze up at the fairytale, wedding-cake style old town hall. Now home to The People’s Committee. A stone’s throw from the Ho Chi Minh City Museum if you’ve got time to explore the city’s history.

11:10am, L’Apothiquaire: Oh la la! Homemade rubs and scrubs going for a song at this aromatherapy spa. Handmade products from Bordeaux at prices the French can only dream of - $4.50 for a lemongrass-scented salt scrub. Merci beaucoup. 63 Le Thanh Ton, 822 1218.

11:30, Nga: Lovely lacquer. Right next door to L’Apothiquaire.

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11:40, Notre Dame Cathedral: A red bricked beauty in the middle of the city. Doesn't look a thing like its Parisian cousin, but who cares. If you're here on a Sunday, and so inclined, there's mass in English. If you're there don't miss the Post Office next door.

11:35 – 12:30, Dong Khoi: This is where the French used to strut their stuff and it’s easy to see why. Still home to chic boutiques and international designer labels. Very easy to while away an hour deciding whether that lacquer bowl or those buffalo horn salad servers would actually look good at home.

12:45, Temple Club: Fantastic Vietnamese food in this retro indo-chine salon. No MSG, fresh Pho soups and amazing spring rolls (amongst countless other temptations). Exposed brickwork, latticed wooden archways, Vietnamese lamps, original tiles and best of all, if you like some of their furniture, you can make them an offer to buy it. Would be a great place for dinner too. $25 for two people, 2 courses and soft drinks. 29 Ton That Thiep, 829 9244.

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1:45 – 2:15, Ton That Thiep: Some great shops on this more off-the-beaten-track road. Try Gaya (#30) for homeware, linen, fashion and furniture, but get your credit card out because it doesn’t come cheap. Appeal (#41 and #33) has great eggshell lacquerware, from photo frames to floor lamps.

2:45pm, Ben Thanh Market: Hold onto your wallet, this is pickpocket heaven. If you can handle the throngs this is a good place to pick up a bargain. Traditional Vietnamese lanterns, ceramics and the backpacker must-have, Tiger Beer t-shirts. Towards the back is the wet market if you can’t hack the hassle.

3:15pm, pool time: need a nap? So did I. Ho Chi Minh is 30 degrees in Feb so why not soak up some sun?

5pm, Emperor Jade Pagoda: Incensed-filled Cantonese-built temple. Touted as the most interesting in town. If you’ve seen a lot of temples before and are tight for time I wouldn’t make the 30 min journey. There’s a nice temple garden though, which offers a welcome respite from the frenetic city.

7pm, Dong Du: Just off Dong Khoi is this quieter, bar and restaurant filled street. We stopped for drinks at Qing, a wine bar with Asian tapas, and were serenaded by dragon dancers gearing up for the Tết festival.

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7:40pm, Thann and Harnn: Walking to dinner can be so distracting, especially when another amazing spa shop crops up. Scented candles and fragrant lotions in this little Aladdin’s cave. Jo Malone, eat your heart out. 23 Dong Du, 827 2008.

8pm, Nam Kha: Allegedly one of the city’s best Vietnamese restaurants, but actually where Donatella Versace met Laura Ashley and it all went hideously wrong. Perhaps the food is fantastic, but I wasn’t going to sit by the reflection pool to find out.

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8:30pm, The Refinery: An oasis of simplicity and deliciousness in a courtyard near the Hôtel de Ville. Arriving at this French-owned restaurant is like stumbling into a secret garden; illuminated by candles and fairylights the restaurant sits on the ground floor of a yellow colonial house with a terracotta roof and wooden eaves. With a menu that would make Provence proud and a wine list to match, this is a great place to come for a glimpse of how the city must have been when the French were still in town. It was so hard to leave that we didn’t until we had to, sipping red wine and watching girls in traditional ao dais walk past. Around $60 for two people, 3 courses and (lots of) wine. 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, 823 0509.

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