I was warned against expecting too much from Kota Kinabalu. Borneo is reputed to be a paradise, and the state capital of Kota Kinabalu the thorn in its side. Three days, four tropical islands, too many Piña Coladas and a lot of sleep later it's difficult to see KK as anything other than a diverse and underrated paradise.

Arriving in daylight hours it’s easy to concur with the negative opinions: on first sight, the town of Kota Kinabalu is no beauty. Landing under the cover of darkness, whisked to a luxurious hotel, handed a cocktail, and surrounded by the sounds of the South China Sea is, however, an altogether different experience.

The hotel, The Tanjung Hotel Resort & Spa, was nothing like the rowdy resort I half expected. The bars and restaurants are airy and sophisticated, the rooms modern and supremely comfortable with amazing views across the sea to lush, tropical islands. The family crowds are easy to avoid – the pool area is vast with plenty of quiet corners, there’s a private beach and a brand new spa, Chi, which opened at the end of 2007.

A stone’s throw from The Tanjung Hotel is Tunku Abdul Rahan National Park, 49 square kilometers of coral reefs and paradise islands. Those in search of tranquillity and untouched sands should make a beeline for Sulug, where there are quiet beaches and good reef for snorkelling. Manukan is a great island for beaches, walking trails, outdoor barbeques and more snorkelling.

Fans of monitor lizards should head to Sapi, where dozens roam just behind the beach. Beach Bums Borneo operates speed boats to the islands hourly from The Tanjung Hotel’s jetty. A return journey costs 40 MYR.

In the other direction lies the impressive Mount Kinabalu (4,095m). Not only is it one of the world’s most important biological sites, but it also gives adventure junkies a run for their money. Intrepid hikers can opt to spend a day and a half (which includes a night on the mountain) scaling the summit. The Tanjung Hotel can help to make hiking arrangements.

If hotel dining isn’t your thing, or you just want to get out and explore, the town centre is only a few minutes from Tanjung in a taxi. Good options include the food stalls in Central Market and Sedco Square for cheap and delicious open air restaurants. For something more upmarket try The Mediterranean Bar and Restaurant at First Beach.

Those who really want to get away from it all, and have longer than just a couple of days, can try The Tanjung Hotel’s sister resort, Rasa Ria, The Manukan Island Resort or Gayana Eco Resort. For a relaxing, easy weekend though you can’t do better than The Tanjung Hotel Resort & Spa.