Travel Book Recommendation: 'Blood River' by Tim Butcher

Posted by Emma Torry on September 24, 2009 at 03:41 PM

I've just finished reading Tim Butcher's book, 'Blood River: A Journey to Africa's Broken Heart', about his 600 mile journey overland (bar one helicopter journey) across the Congo from Lake Tanganyika to Boma. I couldn't put it down.

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Butcher tells the story of his "suicidal" expedition through the Congo, as he follows in the footsteps of Henry Morton ("Dr. Livingstone, I presume?") Stanley, the Victorian journalist / explorer who charted the Congo in 999 days. He ties the narrative of his journey to accounts of the country's compelling and turbulent history.

He is helped across the Congo by UN peacekeepers, aid workers, a pygmy rights advocate, monks, rebel leaders, relics of the Colonial era, a drunk motorbike owner and many more colourful characters. Almost everyone Butcher meets he interviews, resulting in a fascinating patchwork of histories, stories and experiences.

In his own words, his Congo journey was not "adventure travel" but more "ordeal travel". Along the way Butcher encounters stumbling block after stumbling block, finally beating the obstacles corrupt officials, hunger, illness, and political and socio instabilities throw his way.

The journey that took Stanley three years, and cost the lives of hundreds of tribesmen, took Butcher 44 days. Along the way he witnesses the scars of the Congo Wars - burnt out villages, exposed human remains, marauding Mai Mai gunmen - and the regression of a country whose grandparents remember modernity, but whose children have only ever seen its relics. As Butcher puts it, the modern world "had tried, but failed, to establish itself in the Congo".

The Congo may have been a glamorous host to Evelyn Waugh, Graham Greene, Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn once upon a time, but today it is "the most daunting, backward country on earth"; as Butcher laments, he "touched the heart of Africa and found it broken".

'Blood River' is a gripping and gruesome, passionate and poignant, historical and harrowing account of a country that was once a functioning place, but is now "undeveloping", spiralling backwards to a state very similar to that which Stanley witnessed in the 1870s. The Congo is "a place where the hands of the clock spin not forward, but backwards."

Find out more about 'Blood River' here.

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Photo Credit: 'Pirogues on the Congo' by Julien Harneis.

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The Unfortunate Tale of Travel's "Nathan Barley"

Posted by Emma Torry on February 19, 2008 at 05:50 PM

Poor Max Gogarty… One minute he was writing about his Gap Year travels for a coveted blogging spot on Guardian.co.uk, and the next he was at the brunt end of a full-scale cyber hatred campaign.

Max, who introduced himself as living "on top of a hill in north London...spending any sort of money I earn on food and skinny jeans", was accused of nepotism (he is the son of Paul Gogarty, an occasional contributor to The Guardian's travel pages), unoriginality, pretention and worse in over 500 comments left by Guardian.co.uk readers.

One reader writes "Oh Christ, this guy's going to get an absolute hammering. CiF commissioning editors, you are cruel, cruel beasts. I almost feel sympathetic", another continues with "I like the Guardian usually, but sometimes, they don’t half get it wrong. Moneyed youngster goes travelling to the usual places to get drunk and meet girls? Well, bugger me, a stroke of genius".

The deluge of criticism spawned a blog entry by the Travel Editor in defence of his decision to employ Max, a news piece in The Observer discussing the "tsunami of hate" unleashed by Max's writing and a commentary in The Guardian bemoaning "mob rule online".

The ruthless reactions to Max's travel blog culminated in a comment by Max's father stating: "As Andy Pietrasik's blog hasn't mentioned the fact Max won't be writing any more blogs, I thought I'd bring all those heroic internet warriors the good news. Max's trip (which he paid for himself I'm afraid - sorry) has got off to the worst possible start and he's feeling pretty grim so that's double good news for the brave warriors. You may like or dislike the blog but the cruelty is shocking if quintessentially British. Obviously everyone in his family is very hurt for Max so that's a bonus. I won't be reading any more smug clever dick comments but feel free to kick me around the field a bit now - just please leave Max alone. He hasn't actually done anything wrong and you have your wish - he won't be writing any further blogs."

What you think of Max and The Guardian is up to you, just make sure you don't get on the wrong side of this guy...

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