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Margaret Atwood's Toronto Travel Tips

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 21:58:00 GMT

In Saturday's How to Spend It magazine award winning writer, Margaret Atwood, shares the ingredients for her perfect weekend in Toronto, Canada.

According to Atwood, winter visitors to Toronto should check out snow-tubing in Horseshoe Valley, winter birding, and forest walks in places such as Sir Winston Churchill Park and Leslie Hill Split.

For lunch in Toronto you should check out Live (264 Dupont St), which does great vegetarian food; Cantine (13 Avenue Rd), for a superlative bowl of soup; or Le Sélect (432 Wellington St West), a good weekend lunch spot serving up French bistro food (pictured below).

If you want some good dinner options you should look into Take Sushi (22 Front St West), for good Japanese and 93 Harbord (93 Harbord St) for Middle Eastern cuisine - both come highly recommended by Atwood.

L'Espresso Bar Mercurio (321 Bloor St West) is a favourite coffee place, right across the street from Toronto's Shoe Museum.

If you're up for a swanky night out in Toronto, Atwood suggests the new opera house (735 Queen St East), "the auditorium rests like an egg inside the building on huge, rubber elephant legs. The sound is excellent."

Live: 264 Dupont St (North East corner of Dupont and Spadina), Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5R 1V7; Tel: +1 416 515 2002; Web: www.livefoodbar.com.
Cantine: 13 Avenue Rd, Toronto, Ontario M5R 2H6; Tel: +1 416 923 4822; Web: www.cantine.ca.
Le Sélect: 432 Wellington Street West, Toronto M5V 1E3; Tel: +1 416 596 6405; Web: www.leselect.com.
Take Sushi: 22 Front Street West, Toronto, ON M5J 1C4, Canada; Tel: +1 416 862 1891; Web: www.takesushi.ca.
93 Harbord: 93 Harbord Street, Toronto, Ontario, M5S 1G4; Tel: +1 416 922 5914; Web: www.93harbord.com.
L'Espresso Bar Mercurio: 321 Bloor Street West, Toronto, ON, M5S 1S5 (southeast corner of Bloor & St. George); Tel: +1 416 585 2233; Web: www.lespressobarmercurio.com.
The Opera House, Toronto: 735 Queen Street East, Toronto, ON M4M 1H1, Canada; Tel: +1 416 466 0313; Web: www.theoperahousetoronto.com.

To read the full article visit www.howtospendit.com.

Photo Credits: Snow tubing by DrewOtt; Le Sélect via www.leselect.com.

Il Ridotto: Death (by chocolate) in Venice

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 17:54:00 GMT

By Helena Iveson

Ah, Venice. The city which has enough romance and magic to entrance even the most hard bitten of tourists, travel fiends who've been around the block more times than you've had hot dinners. But while mind-blowing beauty is on every calle corner, tourists whom are entranced by anything served up at the city's notoriously bad and pricey restaurants are rarer than a cheerful gondolier.

Then Il Ridotto opened on the lively Campo SS. Filippo, and Venice-bound gourmets now have a dining destination that is as much an attraction as the churches and grand squares. If you're organised enough to book way ahead at this intimate and stylish restaurant run by Gianni Bonaccorsi (there are just 6 tables), you'll enjoy Venetian art on your plate.

The chef personally welcomes you to his pared-back refuge from the crowds and visits each table to explain the menu which changes daily, depending on what he found at the city's Rialto Market. After an amuse-bouche of a perfectly plump prawn on a bed of truffled mashed potato, the first course arrived without any fuss, and when we tasted the fabulously rich homemade tagliolini with a surprisingly light Fassone beef ragu, the fireworks began. The secondo (which incidentally is the same size as the first so pace yourself) was squid stuffed with scampi and prawns in a clam sauce and was as colourful as a Venetian carnival mask.

For dessert, the deliciousness of the chocolate tart with its oozing soft centre kept us digging in, even though we were as stuffed as the squid, and after that it was a pleasure to sit back at our table by the window and sit, Murano glass in hand, and have an unobstructed view of the kitchen at work. It was just Bonaccorsi and a younger apprentice, and there was no Gordon Ramsey-style theatrics, but instead a calmness and creativity at play that set the tone for the rest of the restaurant. Our bill for two was €100 with half a bottle of wine: for Venice and for this quality, that was a bargain.

Il Ridotto
4509 Castello, Campo SS Fillippo, Venice, Italy 30122; Tel: +39 041 520 8280; Web: www.ilridotto.com.

Photo Credits: Venetian Gondolas via iStockPhoto.com, Il Ridotto via www.ilridotto.com.

When in Rome… Cook and Shop Like a Roman

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Mon, 01 Mar 2010 20:28:00 GMT

By Helena Iveson

"This is the Roman way, don't worry," Italian chef Daniela del Balzo said cheerfully, as she reversed her Fiat 500 the wrong way up a one-way street. Not that she could really see out of the window anyway, as the boot was full of delicious goodies that we were taking back to her stylish apartment in a ritzy area on Aventine Hill near the Colosseum to cook for lunch.

Daniela's irreverent charm made the time we spent with her, learning to buy and cook as real Romans do, the highlight of a recent trip to Rome. We'd just spent an hour in Testaccio Market, where generations of Italians have gone to shop since it opened in the 1800s, sniffing, tasting and elbowing the weak out the way to get the freshest and most perfect food possible.

The neighbourhood is a working-class stronghold known as Rome's stomach – it is here that you would have once found the city's slaughterhouses, but they've been closed down and transformed into chi-chi art galleries and apartments as the area undergoes galloping gentrification. Daniela explained that she'd recently taken celebrity chef Gary Rhodes around the market and he'd been poking and prodding the produce just like any good Roman housewife.

The market's 50 or so stalls include the freshest glistening fish on display at a fishmongers that proudly displays a picture of Italian legend Marcello Mastroianni, the stall holder's cousin; picture-perfect fruit and vegetables such as shredded chicory and ready-trimmed artichokes that looked as though they were dug out the ground that morning; plus one of the best selections of cheese, ham and meat that you will find in all of Italy.

After lugging our bags into Daniela's apartment, over espresso and biscotti and with Italian opera on in the background, she talked us through the menu which included both local and Neapolitan dishes from her hometown.

While Daniela poured us a generous glass of prosecco, we made some snacks to get us in the mood: bruschetta and prunes wrapped in bacon, a rich courgette frittata and slices of Bresaola topped with ricotta cheese and arugula. Daniela encouraged us to taste, seasoning and pouring on extra-virgin olive oil at will, which had been made from groves at her family's holiday home in Abruzzo. Then we started on our pasta course of fettuccine with artichokes and pasta with Broccolo Romano. The thought of the last dish did make my heart sink as the vegetable was described as a combination of broccoli and cauliflower which aren't exactly must-orders for me, but once it was braised with anchovies and made creamy with pecorino, I could have licked the bowl.

Our main course was Involtini alla Romana, strips of veal rolled up with prosciutto and celery and braised in a white wine and marjoram sauce. Oh, and tiramisu to finish, followed by more coffee, biscotti and chocolates. Or at least I think that's where we finished, as Daniela generously topped up our wine whenever we weren't looking.

After we bade farewell, with heartfelt kisses and thanks and promises to come again, we walked - or rather staggered - down Aventine Hill armed with our recipes, feeling like we didn't need to eat again until we next returned to Rome.

Testaccio Market is open everyday bar Sunday from 6.30am – 2pm.
For more details of Daniela's Cookery School contact Context Travel (www.contexttravel.com).

Sentosa Island, Singapore: A tranquil island stay, without the travelling

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Tue, 23 Feb 2010 18:11:00 GMT

By Helena Iveson

Sometimes airports can be such a bore. What with crazy queues at security and cramped seats and cardboard food on the plane, it's no wonder that "staycations" are one of the travel industry's top trends.

For Singaporeans, the popular island resort of Sentosa, just a quarter of a mile from the mainland, is a very popular staycation destination, though up to now the attractions have been more family-friendly than fabulous. And while the newly-opened Resorts World is attracting all the publicity, the ultra-exclusive hotel Capella Singapore is where travellers in the know are heading, armed with Gucci bikinis and the latest copy of Vogue.

From the moment you glide up the meandering private driveway to the two colonial buildings that serve as the hotel's reception area, the hustle and bustle of Singapore feels a very, very long way away. Star architect Lord Norman Foster restored the dazzlingly white bungalows, and also added a stylish, undulating space behind them which houses the bulk of the hotel's fabulous accommodation and two restaurants. This earthy red building mirrors the contours of Sentosa's terrain, and guests enjoy spectacular views out to the South China Sea.

And it's not just the views that are dazzling: the Capella's spacious Modern Asian style rooms come with a state-of-the-art touch screen which controls every aspect from air-con to the blinds, iPod docking stations with Bose speakers, a wall-hung plasma TV, a Nespresso machine coffee machine, a private balcony and a open plan bathroom with a deep stone bath.

Staff are far too well mannered and discreet to name their celebrity guests, but when we were there, it looked as though a couple of local A-list celebrities, armed with huge sunglasses to keep out prying eyes, were lounging by one of the cascading pools. In fact, Capella Singapore, is the kind of place that you can picture someone glam like Beyonce sashaying past one of the resident peacocks that freely wander around the tropical gardens. Who needs Bali when an island paradise is just a ten minutes' drive away?

Capella Singapore
1 The Knolls, Sentosa Island, Singapore
Tel: +65 6377 8888
Web: www.capellasingapore.com

Photo Credits: Siloso Beach on Sentosa Island by mrreynolds; Capella Singapore courtesy of Capella Hotels.

Breaking Down American Accents

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 22:42:00 GMT

By Turner Wright

If you're planning a trip through the States read this guide to American accents before you head off on your travels. It's an amusing, astute look at the weird and wonderful differences in dialect and pronunciation across the USA.

I'm a Texan first, then an American, then a citizen of the world. Without fail, every time I encounter someone on the road who has an inkling of knowledge of American accents, I hear:

"So you're from Texas? You don't really have an accent, do you?"

...a fact for which I praise my upbringing each and every day. Still, that doesn't stop me from occasionally throwing on a twang, and spitting out:

"Yessum, I surely do. Yee-haw! Giddy-up there! Have ya'll seen my horse?"

I guarantee I'm not the only city-raised respectable Southerner who's felt compelled to feign, wishing for a moment we had more evidence of our heritage... and perhaps feeling a little embarrassed we have to make the effort. After all, every state is the proud owner of its own distinctive twang, its essence representing the character of the state's history and its people.

TEXAS

Screw Alaska. We're the biggest of the lower 48, so we deserve to be first. The Lone Star State. The Texas accent can be mistaken for the southern drawl of neighboring states, but it tends to be a little more focused; when Michael Caine was studying to speak like a Texan in the movie Secondhand Lions, he probably got the best explanation I've ever heard:

'...[British] English is like all-soldiers-standing-to-attention.' He said, 'In Texan, everybody leans on each other, goes like that. The words just lean on each other and they go through jus' like that. It's all slow and you don't have to worry about nothin'.'
I said, 'Texans do talk slow, don't they John?'
He said, 'They sure do, Michael.'
I said, 'Why's that?'
He said, 'Well, I reckon it's 'cause we're all very big and carry a lot of guns - people just listen.'

Source: YouTube

THE SOUTH
Like Texan (or I guess the rest would say "Texas is like us"), the southern accent is drawn out, tends to drop the end of words, and is a close relative of the English accent. I hesitate to lump the masses together, as each state is quite distinct, but for the most part Florida, Alabama, Georgia, Mississippi, Louisiana, Kentucky, Tennessee, South Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia (the Virginias are pretty unique in themselves), North Carolina, and Arkansas natives bear the burden of this form of speech.

In the south...

"Liar" rhymes with "fire"
Be on the lookout for expressions that would make Shakespeare turn in his grave: "You're dumber'n a sack'a potatoes."
"Ya'll" (= you all) is a dead giveaway
"Get 'er done!" will always produce a reaction (thanks to Larry the Cable Guy)

BOSTON
Boston and indeed most of eastern Massachusetts has a wicked retarded accent, best used for cheering for the Red Sox, doing kegstands, and grabbing something sweet from the packie (liquor store). In any case, try changing all the short "a"'s to "ee"'s (e.g. Mary = Meery); "o"'s to soft "a"'s (e.g. Boston = Baston) and "r"'s at the end or in the middle of words to "h"'s (Nomar Garciaparra = Nomah).

The Wicked Good Guide to Boston English

MIDWESTERN
The midwestern accent is probably the most neutral of accents in all forms of English. Head over to Nebraska, Kansas, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, and Pennsylvania and enjoy the flat-sounding voices. I believe this is why there are so many telemarketing firms and phone operators in Nebraska; companies want to be understood. Without any real inflection or flare, midwestern speakers may as well be the hardest to pin down by language enthusiasts.

NEW YORK
Ahh... yes. Your first thought is probably the deep NY accents you hear Italians using in mob movies; in fact, whenever I try to feign this one, I start with: "Hey Tony, go whack this guy, will ya?"

Given the geographically small area of New York City, it's amazing we find such varieties of speech. From all five Boroughs - Queens, Staten Island, Manhattan, Brooklyn, Bronx - to Long Island and northern New Jersey, many visitors to the big apple (I don't care if they officially changed the name) claim to be able to hear differences between these regions. In fact, the classic New York accent is the result of European immigrants, and now lies mostly in the mouths of the working class; talk to a cabbie from JFK airport into Manhattan and you'll see what I mean.

The Story of the New York Accent.

THE DAKOTAS
Pop the movie Fargo into your DVD player and discover... well, an exaggerated version of a Minnesota accent. For North and South Dakota, there are strong Scandinavian and German roots influencing their inflections, with a result not far off from the neutral dialects of the midwestern states. Double "o" sounds are indistinguishable from their use in "root" (i.e. book = b-oo-uk), and soft "a"'s are replaced by soft "o"'s (father = f-oh-ther). In North Dakota, the Canadian influence is also unmistakable.

CALIFORNIA

A lot of the latest American slang spreads from New York City and Los Angeles, tending to produce a speech faster and much harder to pin down. In general, the "A"'s are flatter, the "R"'s are hard, and the accent is more liked a toned down version of the 1980s Valley Girl. In all likelihood, you'd be more likely to recognize someone as Californian based on their cultural expressions and knowledge of Spanish rather than any specific accent.

Photo Credits: Texas by atmtx; Boston by JMaz Photo; New York by diebmx; California by casch52 gone for a short time.

A 21st Century Poseidon Adventure: Virgin Introduces New ‘Underwater Plane’

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 18:35:00 GMT

If you've always dreamt of diving down to 20,000 leagues under the sea, then news of Virgin's new "underwater plane" will be music to your ears, though perhaps not to your wallet.

The Necker Nymph, Virgin Limited Edition's DeepFlight three-person aero-submarine (what a mouthful...), is an open cockpit winged sub that will take tourists down to the ocean floor on an underwater flight to explore shipwrecks, swim side-by-side with dolphins, or cruise along with whales. Needless to say, it is the first of its kind on the market.

Capable of diving down to depths of 36,000 feet Necker Nymph has the flexibility to glide peacefully over reefs or up the excitement ante with 360 degree turns. The open cockpits afford near ideal 360 degree viewing for passengers, creating a uniquely open experience. Dives can last up to two hours.

Like all DeepFlight subs, Necker Nymph has near-zero environmental impact: it won't land on precious reefs and has low light and noise emissions to keep ocean ecosystems from being disturbed.

Necker Nymph is available either when chartering Necker Belle, Virgin's luxury 105 foot catamaran (weekly charter costs U.S. $88,000), or when staying on Richard Branson's Necker Island. When taking Necker Belle for 7-nights' exclusive hire, the sub is available at an additional weekly rate of US$ 25,000.

Images via Virgin Limited Edition.

Walking in a Winter Wonderland: The Sapporo Snow Festival

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Tue, 02 Feb 2010 19:36:00 GMT

Snow bunnies, this is one for you... Japan's 61st annual Sapporo Snow Festival kicks off this Friday 5th February and runs for a week. The festival attracts 2 million visitors every year and showcases snow statues and sculptures on a massive scale: 244 in total this year.

Teams from across the world head to Sapporo to take part in the snow and ice sculpture contest, which transforms the city into a glittering, icy spectacle of winter whimsy.

We recommend stopping into the Sapporo Snow Festival en route to a few days of skiing up in Niseko.

For more information about the festival visit www.snowfes.com.

Photo Credit: Sapporo Snow Festival by sachman75 via Flickr (Creative Commons).

2010's "Must-Go" Destinations

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Fri, 22 Jan 2010 00:11:00 GMT

I was flicking through a recent copy of Condé Nast Traveller and stumbled across their version of the 2010 travel hotlist (which you will have seen everywhere by now, no doubt). CN usually sort the wheat from the chaff though so I though this list was worth sharing.

They have broken the must-visit destinations for 2010 down into seasons, so starting with spring...

WHERE TO VISIT IN SPRING 2010

Beirut, Lebanon: Hoping to once again become the playground of the Middle East, Beirut is hot right now. Check into the newly opened Le Gray or the Four Seasons.

Amsterdam, The Netherlands: Super convenient for the Euro traveller, especially since the completion of a high-speed rail track from Brussels (that connects with the Eurostar), Amsterdam's the perfect destination for art lovers in early 2010. The city's main attractions this spring are the Pioneers of Modern Art exhibition at the Hermitage Amsterdam (from 6 March - 17 September 2010) and the reopening of the Stedelijk museum of modern and contemporary art.

Utah, USA: The new Aman resort, Amangiri, will be drawing the crowds to Utah this spring. Located out in the wilderness of Canyon Point, where the states of Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona meet, the area is home to one of the most dramatic landscapes in the USA. Added to this is the new law legalising alcohol throughout the State.

Morocco: La Mamounia hotel has been reopened in Marrakech and there are new Easyjet and Ryanair routes to Agadir, with flights to the hyped coastal town of Mirleft coming soon.

Istanbul, Turkey: Lauded as one of 2010's European Capitals of Culture, Istanbul is still a hot destination. Favourable rates of exchange only add to the attraction.

Rome, Italy: Visit Rome to check out the new MAXXI_National Museum of the XXI Century Arts, which exhibits 21st century art and architecture.

WHERE TO VISIT IN SUMMER 2010

South Africa: South Africa is going to be a serious hotspot come the World Cup kick off on June 11th. Savvy travellers should combine a trip to the World Cup with a beach break in Mozambique.

Shanghai, China: The Expo 2010 runs from May to October in Shanghai, and CN recommends staying at the legendary Peace Hotel, overlooking Shanghai's Huangpu River. For more Shanghai travel recommendations click here.

Solta, Croatia: The island of Solta has managed to stay off the beaten tourist track despite being just 30 minutes away from Split by ferry. This summer is the last before a planned revolving hotel and marina spoil Solta's tranquillity, so now is the time to go.

Papua New Guinea: Hot on the heals of the successful BBC series Land of the Volcano, Papua New Guinea can expect a rise in tourists this summer.

WHERE TO VISIT IN AUTUMN 2010

Dubai: For a bit of sunshine and a new fashion hotel openings; the first, The Armani Hotel Dubai, in the Burj Dubai Tower, followed by the Palazzo Versace in the Culture Village of Dubai Creek.

Nicaragua: Check out the surf and book into the country's first boutique hotel, the Contempo.

Uruguay: La Solana, on Portezuelo beach just west of Punta del Este, is the hippest boutique hotel opening in Uruguay this autumn. Also check out the new Estancia Vik to the north-east of José Ignacio.

Sri Lanka: Due in part to the recent stability in Sri Lanka, it is set to be a big destination later on this year. Home to a couple of stunning Aman resorts and the Reef beach villa in Wadduwa, travellers won't be hard pressed to find stylish hotel choices.

WHERE TO VISIT IN WINTER 2010

Colorado, USA: Ski heaven thanks to big changes for the 2010/11 season: the five star Nell Residences are opening in Snowmass, Aspen; a new Four Seasons is launching in Vail; and the Denver Ski Train, which takes ski bunnies to Winter Park, is set for a comeback.

Tasmania: Stay in the lap of luxury at the spa suites of the Saffire resort on Great Oyster Bay.

Antarctica: Travel in serious style on Le Boreal, "the newest and first all-balcony stateroom and suite vessel in Antarctica", chartered by Abercrombie & Kent.

Photo Credits: Amsterdam by MorBCN; Nicaragua by vtoxic; Solta by bullro; Great Oyster Bay by Gary Hayes. All images via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Lulu Guinness Tea in London

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Fri, 15 Jan 2010 18:21:00 GMT

Iconic British handbag designer, Lulu Guinness, is being honoured at the Metropolitan hotel in London from 15th - 27th February with an afternoon tea inspired by her Autumn / Winter 2010 collection, "Kiss and Make Up".

Guests can look forward to lipstick cookies, make-up palette chocolate cake, and low-fat (fashionistas don't do fat afterall) cupcakes decorated with Lulu's famous lips and Pollyanna bags.

An even more delicious offer, for fashion-hungry travellers to London, is that everyone who has the "Lulu Tea" will receive 15% off all products in the Lulu Guinness Ellis Street store in SW1.

We like the look of this travel inspired canvas handbag (£225) as a super-chic hand baggage option.

The Lulu tea is available in the Met Bar from Monday 15th - Saturday 17th February 2010, from 3pm - 6pm. Price £25 per person. Reservations must be made in advance on +44 (0)20 7447 4757.

Metropolitan Hotel, London: Old Park Lane, London, W1K 1LB; Tel: +44 (0)20 7447 1000.

Lulu Guinness, Ellis Street: 3 Ellis Street, London, SW1X 9AL; Tel: +44 (0)207 823 4828.

Suits you Sir: Where to get the best bespoke suits, shirts and shoes in Hong Kong

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 03:11:00 GMT

Having bespoke suits, shirts and shoes tailor made in Hong Kong is a sartorial rite-of-passage for many business travellers to "The Fragrant Harbour". It's quick, convenient, and your new clothes can be shipped back to you with a minimum of fuss.

The trouble is that it can be exhausting looking for the best quality, fair prices and good service in a city as teeming with tailors as Hong Kong. Luckily for you business travellers we've done the legwork so you can use your precious down time for more client schmoozing or to sample the delights of Lan Kwai Fong.

GET SUITED

The British Textile Company: Danny Tam's business has been running since the 1960s when it began in Shanghai. His hand crafted suits, made from English and Italian fabrics, take a week to complete and require two to three fittings. Prices for a tailor made suit range from approximately HKD 4,000 to HKD 8,000 depending on the quality of the fabric. In order to get the perfect fit, Danny recommends coming with a good idea of the style you want so that you can give them the best instructions possible. Orders can be placed from overseas and door-to-door delivery generally costs 10% of the total order. You can also have shirts, coats, waistcoats, dinner jackets, morning suits and ladies' clothes made here.
The British Textile Company, Shop G17, Ground Floor, Holiday Inn Shopping Mall, 50 Nathan Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 2730 3464; Fax: +852 2735 4999; Email: tkw1122@netvigator.com.

A-Man Hing Cheong Co. Ltd: This tailors has been up and running since 1898 and its success is tenable by merit of its super smart location in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Suits take five to seven days to make and require three fittings. The fabrics on offer are of the highest quality, imported from the UK or Italy. Prices for a bespoke suit range from HKD 8,000 to HKD 20,000, so excellence doesn't come cheap (they have to pay the rent somehow…). The good news is that once they have your measurements on file you can call or email in your orders and they will ship the finished product anywhere in the world to you for free.
A-Man Hing Cheong Co., Ltd, Unit M2 Mezz. Floor, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 2522 3336; Fax: +852 2523 4707; Email: amhcltd@netvigator.com.

GET BOOTED

Mayer Shoe Co.: Quite literally follow in the footsteps of Henry Kissinger, local Tai-pans, and Hong Kong's former governors at this famous 46-year old shop. Also located in the glitzy Mandarin Oriental Hotel, the Mayer Shoe Co. specializes in bespoke ladies and gents shoes made from top notch European and American leather. The shoemakers can copy styles from a magazine picture, remake your favourite pair of banged up brogues, or you can choose from their collection of house styles. A pair of tailor made shoes takes between seven and ten days to make and costs from HKD 3,500.
Mayer Shoe Co., M-3 Mandarin Oriental Hotel Arcades, 5 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 2524 3317; Fax: +852 2524 5513; Email: mayerhk@netvigator.com.

Kow Hoo Shoes: Kow tow to Kow How: beautiful, butter soft handmade shoes are the order of the day at this 82-year old company. The shoemaker is also an octogenarian, so it takes six to eight months for each pair to be ready; sadly, shoemaking by hand is a dying trade. Each customer has a wooden shoe last crafted to the exact shape of their feet, so once you have ordered from Kow Hoo once you can email or fax across any style you like to be made to your exact specifications. You can also choose send in your old shoes to be remade if you've lost a pair you love. The leathers come from Europe, and exotic skins can be sourced if the fancy takes you. Prices start from HKD 6,800 and international shipping costs about HKD 280.
Kow Hoo Shoes, Shop 241, Prince's Building, 10 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2523 0489; Fax: +852 2877 1783; Email: kowhoo@hotmail.com.

GET SHIRTY

Best Shirt Maker Company: Tommy Lo has been doing his company's name proud since 1968, and his bespoke shirts have attracted Hollywood stars to the shop above Wellington Street. Fabrics at the Best Shirt Maker Company come from Japan, the UK and Italy – the finest being the Italian ones – and samples can be sent overseas. Prices start at HKD 400 for a tailor made shirt from Japanese cotton and go up to HKD 1,000+ for a bespoke Italian number. Allow one week for shirts to be made; if you live abroad you can email or call in your orders and Tommy will ship them.
Best Shirt Maker Company, Flat C, 1/F, Fortuna Building, 63 – 69 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 2525 3562; Fax: (Call before sending) +852 2110 0835; Email: best_shirt_maker@hotmail.com.

If you have had any good experiences having suits and shirts tailored and shoes handmade for you in Hong Kong we'd love to hear from you. Please leave your tips and comments below.

Image Credits: Suit via iStockPhoto; Shoe Last by Artbandito

The best Lebanese food in London?

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Mon, 04 Jan 2010 19:30:00 GMT

London seems to have gone Lebanese food crazy. Since the last time I was in the UK's capital all sorts of mezze and falafel places have cropped up, notably a new chain called LebanEats, which seems to have outlets everywhere.

If you're after the seriously good stuff though you should head straight to Comptoir Libanais on Wigmore Street. There are other branches across the city, but this is the most centrally located.

Queue up at the deli counter for takeaway wraps, mezze, salads, tagines and drinks, or grab a table and settle in. The mezze platter to share - with hommous, tabbouleh, baba ghanuj, falafel, spinach fatayer, pickles and pitta - is a bargain for two at £9.50. The wraps, especially the falafel and the super garlicky chicken taouk, are less wallet friendly at £4.50, but also delicious. Highly recommended is the fab halloumi salad, which comes with all the usual trimmings and costs £5.50. Apparently you have to try the prawn falafel (£3.50) too, although sadly I didn't have the room.

If you're in need of a pitstop post-Selfridges shopping spree, or you want cheap eats before catching a concert at the Wigmore Hall then Comptoir Libanais is a great place. You can bring your own wine too and they won't charge corkage.

Comptoir Libanais, 65 Wigmore Street, London W1U 1PZ; Tel: +44 (0)20 7935 1110. For details of other locations please visit lecomptoir.co.uk.

Image via Comptoir Libanais on Facebook.

Best Christmas Gifts for Business Travellers 2009

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 08:07:00 GMT

Business travellers may be a road-weary lot, but we think that this selection of Christmas goodies will fill them with holiday cheer; we hope they please the road warrior in your life!

Heavenly Travel Blanket

There's nothing worse than being uncomfortable when you're travelling long-distance or overnight to an important meeting – so avoid it. Indulge your favourite business traveller with the Heavenly Travel Blanket from Westin. We've all heard the hype about their duvets, pillows and bed linens, and now the "heavenly" experience has been packaged up and made road ready. Opened up, it's a full sized blanket – folded it's a compact travel pillow. Nifty huh?!
Price USD 60 (ships internationally). Available online at www.westin.com/store.

Passport Cover

It's funny what a difference the little things can make. These leather passport covers from Smythson are ultra chic and luxurious, and will transform check-in from glum to glam. Choose from an array of styles and colours for traditionalists and fashionistas alike.
Price from £60 / USD 100. Available online at www.smythson.com.

Travel Journal

Encourage the business traveller in your life to record their journeys (and jot down the details of fab places to take you to later) in this super smart envelope wrap travel journal from Aspinal of London. It's got more than a whiff of the Victorian explorer about it, perfect for bringing some romance and a dash of the exotic into mundane business trips.
Price from £25 / USD 39. Available online at www.aspinaloflondon.com.

Flip Mino HD

If your road-warrior is more techie than traditional, the Flip Mino HD camcorder is the perfect gift to help them remember where they've been and what they've seen. It's also a great little device for recording up to 120 minutes of personal messages from exotic climes and emailing them over to friends and family. It is very easy to use, lightweight and small.
Price from USD 229. Available online from Amazon.com.

Digital Luggage Scale
This is a great stocking filler or present from the dog for your business traveller. Brookstone has a portable digital luggage scale that you can use to weigh your bags and avoid any hassle or unforeseen costs at the airport. The scale can measure up to 75 lbs / 34 kg.
Price USD 29.95. Available from Amazon.com.

In-flight Travel Bag
Get pampered at 30,000 feet with a gorgeous kit from skincare and fragrance guru, Jo Malone. Keep your skin in tip top condition so you look and feel great in those all important business meetings.
Price £76. Available online at www.jomalone.co.uk.

Recorded Bedtime Stories

If you know someone who is on the road a lot more often than they would like, this could make a great gift if they have children or grandchildren. Cherished Voices is a company that allows business travellers to record bedtime stories, in their own voice, over the phone that are then burnt onto a CD and shipped to the child. A very special way to stay in touch.
Price from USD 30 – 50. Available online at www.cherishedvoices.com.

Wine Ratings Guide iPhone App
Clients can be hard to please, so help out your favourite business traveller with this nifty iPhone app that helps to select the best bottle of wine on the menu. For the bargain price of USD 1.99 this application from Nirvino will turn anyone from clueless to connoisseur: 1 million wine ratings, a food pairings wizard, and a regional wine guide (so you can pick the best local tipple). Look like a genius, even if you're not.
Price USD 1.99. Available online at www.nirvino.com or via the iTunes store.

Screaming Pillow
Another delayed flight? A client who won't play ball? A deranged hotel receptionist? Let it ALL out on a screaming pillow. Business travel can be pretty stressful, so take a little piece of mobile therapy with you on the road. Simply place your face on the pillow and scream.
Price USD 19.99 (+shipping and handling). Available online at screamingpillows.com.

Luxe City Guides: World Tour Box
From LA to London, Beijing to Berlin – tour the world in style with 12 of the fab Luxe City Guides. This is one for business travellers who appreciate the finer things in life and don't want the slog of researching where to find them. Price USD 110. Available online at Amazon.com.

Three of the Best London Markets

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:23:00 GMT

London is a well known shopping destination, and there's a lot more to the UK's capital than Oxford Street and Topshop... Hit London's markets and you'll head home with a suitcase full of original pieces plus a slice of real London life.

Here are three of our favourite London markets to add you your travel itinerary:

Columbia Road Flower Market, E2

Every Sunday Columbia Road comes into bloom with thousands of brightly coloured flowers and plants. Barrow boys call out for customers and savvy Londoners come out in force to stock up on bargain price flowers and foliage. You can get your hands on everything from a single stem to a 10 foot banana tree, and if you're not interested in buying flowers there are masses of photo opps.

Open on Sundays from 8am until 3pm(ish). Closest stations are Old Street and Bethnal Green.

Spitalfields Market, E1

Fashionistas and foodies will love Spitalfields. It's chock-a-block with 110 stalls selling clothes, crafts, antiques, arts and organic produce. Glass roofed and weather-proof, you should set aside a good few hours for treasure hunting here. Rest assured: there are plenty of cafes and restaurants where you can refuel.

If you've got the energy, Columbia Road and Spitalfields can be done together as they are within walking distance of each other.

Open Tuesday - Friday from 10am to 4pm and Sunday from 9am to 5pm. Closed on Monday and Saturday. The closest station is Liverpool Street.

Borough Market, SE1

Foodies and photographers will think they've died and gone to heaven... Borough Market is home to London's very best meat, fruit, veg, cheeses, fish and oh so much more. Come either to shop or to sample the delicious food, which can be eaten straight from the stalls or in the gardens of Southwark Cathedral. It's worth making the effort to get to Borough Market early as around lunchtime it gets horribly busy. Saturday is the best day to visit.

Open on Thursday from 11am to 5pm, Friday from 12pm to 6pm and Saturday from 8am to 5pm. The nearest station is London Bridge.

Photo Credits: Columbia Road Flower Market by estherase; Spitalfields Market by vertcerise; Borough Market by RedJamJar.

Travel Q&A: Bridget Randolph, Kiribati London

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 19:31:00 GMT

Bridget Randolph, founder of luxury swimwear company Kiribati London, shares her travel highs and lows, tips and experiences - from luxury in the Maldives to getting lost in Rome. Read on for a special iloho offer on her stunning collection of Kiribati swimwear.

The best holiday I've ever had was...
The Maldives, without a doubt. Diving with turtles, lounging in hammocks, sundowners on the beach... heaven! We stayed at the Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru (www.banyantree.com) on a secluded atoll in the Maldives archipelago.

If I could only recommend one place to see before you die it would be...
False Bay, South Africa. You can take a boat out and watch Great White Sharks feed. It's terrifying!

My one piece of travel advice is...
Pack light and do everything.

The best hotel I've ever stayed in is...
Hotel Costes (www.hotelcostes.com) in Paris. I was lucky enough to discover it before it became so renowned, but it is still a dark, mysterious haven that oozes naughtiness!

And the worst hotel I've ever stayed in is...
I have stayed in many truly horrible places, but I suppose if a hotel isn't pretending to be what it's not you can't really be disappointed. I think the most cringy place I ever stayed was a hotel called Deerhurst Resort in Ontario which was more conference centre than hotel. It had me giggling for days because it was so similar to the resort used in Dirty Dancing.

For a perfect holiday I need these ingredients...
A backgammon board, a great book and enough time to get properly lost.

I always pack...
Sun cream and the phone number of a friend of a friend who lives where I'm going. It's the only true way to see a place.

This year I have travelled to...
My husband-to-be is Canadian so we always disappear to the freshwater lakes near Lake Muskoka in Ontario, Canada during the summer, which I really love. This year has also been the "Year of Weddings" for us so we have also been to Italy and France a spoiling amount!

Next year I'm dying to go to...
I'm a bit of a nature nerd at heart so next year I would love to go and do some scuba diving off Australia.

The worst travel experience I've ever had is... Ryanair stranded me overnight in Rome; I was travelling alone and couldn't speak Italian. Since then I have vowed both to learn Italian and never to fly with Ryanair again.

My ideal travel companion is... Tina Fey. Can you imagine how much fun you would have?

Visit Kiribati online now and get 10% off the collection with special code iloho753 (enter the code at checkout).

Launched in June 2009, the Kiribati London collection of bikinis and swimsuits has had immediate success and is currently available at Heidi Klein boutiques in London and will be at Holt Renfrew in Canada from December. Kiribati also ships worldwide via the website www.kiribati-london.com.

Photo credits: The Maldives by daniel pozo; Great White Shark by hermanusbackpackers; Muskoka Lakes by Mary.

"Festival of Freedom": Celebrating 20 Years Since the Fall of the Berlin Wall

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 23:19:00 GMT

Today marks the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. To celebrate, Berlin is hosting an open-air concert and party tonight.

Over 1,000 colourful 8ft dominoes, along the former route of the wall between Pariser Platz and the Brandenburg Gate, will be knocked over to mark this important anniversary, and to raise awareness of walls around the world that continue to exist.

The last domino will trigger a firework frenzy over the Brandenburg Gate.

Dignitaries expected to attend Berlin's "Festival of Freedom" include U.S Secretary of State Hillary Clinton, French President Nicolas Sarkozy, British Prime Minister Gordon Brown, and former Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev.

Brandenburg Gate by wit.

Hotel Review: The Upper House, Hong Kong

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:09:00 GMT

Have you got one of those friends whose taste you marvel at, whose style you envy, and whose life is über-chic; the sort of friend whose home makes you wish were making millions and pray you'll be asked to stay? If you're fed up of waiting around for a piece of the action, or if you're in dire need of a dose of glam, we suggest you check out newly opened hotel, The Upper House, in Hong Kong.

Designed by Hong Kong architect Andre Fu, The Upper House is an oasis of individual style, space and calm in the centre of the city's business district. The idea is to make guests feel as though they are staying in a friend's luxurious home – a clever concept given that Hong Kong is bursting at the seams with traditional 5* hotels already – and it is well executed. Coffee table books lie on tables in the hotel's common spaces, cosy Hermès throws dangle temptingly from sofa backs, and backgammon boards lie open inviting you to get stuck into a game. In the evenings guests can take their drinks out to the lawn and lounge in candlelight at tables or on beanbags.

In keeping with the home-away-from-home theme, The Upper House has eschewed the traditional hotel check-in and concierge desks in favour of a mobile Guest Experience team that cruises around the hotel with portable laptops checking guests in and catering to their every need. And, in a move that would impress the most fastidious of hosts and demanding of house guests, the Guest Experience team contacts you before your arrival to find out about your particular likes and dislikes. If you're a stickler for extra soft pillows, a fridge stocked only with Diet Coke, or if you want a list of the nearest bars or best beaches, everything you need will be awaiting you. One guest asked for a list of Hong Kong's best hikes and details of what was showing at the cinema, and had all the information tucked into an envelope in her room.

Even without this impressive personal touch, guests are guaranteed to be wowed by the hotel's rooms. Starting – yes starting – at 730 sq. ft (68 sq. m) The Upper House offers the biggest hotel rooms in Hong Kong. Categorised from smallest to largest as Studio 70 (pictured below), Studio 80, Upper Suite and Penthouse, even the "smallest" of the rooms feels pretty vast, but what you gain in space you lose in traditional amenities; The Upper House has no pool and no spa preferring to allocate the space into creating more luxurious guest rooms.

As soon as you walk into the huge bathroom (every room type has one) and clock the separate dressing area, walk-in rain shower and limestone clad bath, we're not sure you'll mind about the lack of pool. Delicious REN products line shower shelves, sinks and baths – kitting you out with everything you need to create your own in-room spa experience.

The rooms come chock-a-block with complimentary treats: internet access (available throughout the hotel), a fully stocked mini-bar (free with the exception of wines, champagne and spirits), and an espresso machine. Hotel information is loaded onto an iTouch docked in the desk, and you can even use it to order room service, check the weather, and access a local map. Pretty nifty.

The size of the Upper House suites would make almost all Hong Kong home owners jealous. Starting at 1,230 sq. ft (114 sq. m) they comprise of an entrance way, large reception room, bedroom and double bathroom. They are perfect for business travellers in Hong Kong with a significant other as there are two ways in and out of the bedroom: a door into the reception room and a door (dubbed the "girlfriend door") out into the hallway, thus the lucky other needn't disturb a meeting should they want to nip out for a splurge in swanky Pacific Place mall underneath the hotel.

Rooms have either harbour or island views. We recommend the island view rooms if you can forego the Hong Kong harbour skyline, they are quieter and more serene.

In terms of wining and dining, there's the longest bar in Hong Kong and a laid-back bistro style restaurant to choose from. The views are impressive, and the semi-private dining spaces perfect for either dinner-à-deux or a business tête-à-tête.

If The Upper House ticks your boxes now is the time to head to the home away from home: until the end of December you get two nights for the price of one. Bearing in mind how much you'd have to spend on a thank-you present for your über-stylish friend, perhaps it makes more sense to splash out on a couple of nights at The Upper House than to take up an invite from them...

The Two Nights for One offer is valid until 31st December 2009. Rates start from HK$3,388 for a 730sq ft Island View Studio 70.

The Upper House
Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 2918 1838; Web: www.upperhouse.com.

Ski Hotspot Breckenridge, Colorado Votes to Legalise Marijuana

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 17:25:00 GMT

Voters in Breckenridge, one of Colorado's most popular ski resorts, legalised marijuana and pot paraphernalia - bongs, pipes, etc - by a nearly three to one margin this week. The new law, which comes into effect on 1 January 2010, allows adults over the age of 21 to possess up to one ounce (28g) of the drug.

Although you're allowed to possess marijuana, you're not allowed to smoke it in public places, which means no dope on the slopes.

The ski lifts open in just 6 days; Breckenridge averages 300 inches of snow and 300 days of blue skies per year.

Photo by Luke Wisley.

Travel Tips: Cell Phone Immortality in Hong Kong

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 22:36:00 GMT

It's never ideal when your phone dies on you in a new city. If this happens to you in Hong Kong though you're in luck as you can recharge your battery in any 7 Eleven store for just HK$10 (US$1.20 / 80p). There's a 7 Eleven on practically every street corner in Hong Kong so it won't take you long to find one.

Pop in, drop off your battery (just your battery, not the whole phone), return 30 minutes et voilà, no more running on empty. Nifty huh?

Photo Credit: 7 Eleven by speedwaystar via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Fun Travel Quiz: Which Caribbean Island Suits You Best?

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 19:14:00 GMT

If you can't decide between Anguilla or Antigua, the Cayman Islands or Cuba, Martinique or Montserrat then take this quiz, on the Washington Post's website, to find out which Caribbean island is the right one for you.

My quiz results tell me to head to Jamaica, Anguilla, Barbados or Nevis; sounds pretty good to me!

Take the quiz here.

Photo by Michelle Brea.

Check Out Berlin's "Ostalgic" Hostel

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 23:52:00 GMT

It might be 20 years since the Berlin wall came down, but if you check into The Ostel, Berlin's new GDR-designed hostel, you'd be forgiven for thinking time had stood still.

Full of details to delight even the most ostalgic (nostalgic for life in the former East "Ost" Germany) of visitors, The Ostel cashes in on the trend for recreating aspects of daily life and culture of the former GDR.

Housed in an original Plattenbau, a typical East German building constructed of large, prefabricated concrete slabs, The Ostel offers dorm rooms, private rooms and a GDR Holiday Apartment that can sleep up to six. Rooms cost from €9 per person per night.

We can see The Ostel's Communist kitsch vibe and its proximity's to some of the best of Berlin's nightlife making it a firm favourite in the Berlin stag / hen repertoire.

If stepping back in time is your thing make sure you take a tour of Berlin in an old Trabbi - another East Berlin icon - to add to the GDR experience. Visit www.trabi-safari.de for more information.

The Ostel
Wriezener Karree 5, 10243, Berlin, Germany; Tel: +49 30 25 76 86 60; Fax: +49 30 25 76 88 07; Email: contact@ostel.eu; Web: www.ostel.eu.

Photo Credits: The Ostel ©OSTEL GbR; Trabant by Genial23.

Shot(s) of the Day: Red Crab, Hairy Crab

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 22:05:00 GMT

Say hello to the Red Crab of Christmas Island. Around this time every year, Christmas Island - an Australian territory in the Indian Ocean - sees the annual migration of about 100 million Red Crabs from the forests to the sea to breed. This phenomenon has been called one of the wonders of the natural world. If you're keen to see it with your own eyes, the best spots to watch are said to be Flying Fish Cove, Ethel Beach and Greta Beach.

And onto the less fortunate Hairy Crab or Chinese Mitten Crab ("before" shot above, "after" shot below). Revered in Shanghai as the pinnacle of all culinary delicacies, especially for the female's roe, Hairy Crab Season is now in full swing. Chinese spend hundreds of yuan on this annual treat and restaurants in Shanghai and Hong Kong go into Hairy Crab menu overdrive.

Have you tried Hairy Crab or seen the Red Crab Migration on Christmas Island? We've love to hear about your experiences, please leave us a comment.

Photo Credits: "Red crab Christmas Island" by Peter from Perth; "A Crab Close-up" by triin; "Chinese Mitten Crab" by 囧-WQ-囧. Via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Three of the World's Best Ghost Tours

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 22:32:00 GMT

Halloween is fast approaching and with it an increased appetite for all things spooky and paranormal. Have you ever done a ghost tour on your travels? You might turn your nose up and say it's all a charade, but ghost tours can be a great way to learn more about the history of a place, as well as upping your adrenaline levels by a notch or two. So what's there to lose? Here are our picks of three of the world's best ghost tours.

Mary King's Close and the South Bridge Vaults: Edinburgh, Scotland
Mary King's Close and the South Bridge Vaults form part of Edinburgh's historic underworld (both lie hidden beneath the Royal Mile). As you descend into the darkness and mystery of the underground closes and vaults your imagination will get a real work out as you listen to the stories of ghosts, murders, plague victims and witches.

Mary King's Close today is the remains of a mediaeval street buried underneath Edinburgh's City Chambers and the Royal Mile - the paranormal happenings that have taken place there are world renowned. When the Black Death hit Edinburgh in 1645 there were around 500 of the city's poorest people living and working in Mary King's Close; about half of them were dead or dying from the disease. The story goes that the city decided to act against further outbreak and the Close's inhabitants were quarantined in their homes and left to die. If you go down to the Close look out for a young ghost called Annie; she's been spotted by lots of people over the years and there's one room in particular that she is rumoured to haunt.

The South Bridge Vaults were built in late 18th century, and abandoned by the 1830s - the corridors and chambers are still unchanged. Burke and Hare, the body snatchers who sold corpses to medical schools, are rumoured to have hunted for victims in these Vaults.

According to The Edinburgh Ghost Project 2001 there abnormally high levels of paranormal activity in Edinburgh's Underground Vaults. As added testament to the ghostly goings on in Edinburgh's underworld, the "Most Haunted" TV team has staged one of its live shows in the South Bridge Vaults and Mary King's Close.

For more info about the Mary King's Close tour visit Mercat Tours. For more info about the Vaults tour visit Auld Reekie Tours.

French Quarter: New Orleans, USA
The French Quarter is the oldest and most famous neighbourhood in America's "Most Haunted" city. Here ghost stories and paranormal sightings mingle with the very real, and very macabre "City of the Dead": St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, where you can visit the Queen of New Orleans Voodoo, Marie Laveau.

Laveau's former home at 1020 St. Ann Street is said to be one of the French Quarter's most haunted spots. People are said to have seen her spirit, along with those of her followers, engaged in Voodoo ceremonies there.

Another must-see spot for ghost-busters is Madame LaLaurie's house at 1140 Royal Street. She was responsible for the torture, mistreatment and death of many of her slaves, and apparently you can still here the screams of her victims today.

Visitors to New Orleans can take their pick from several ghost tours of the French Quarter, amongst the best operators are Haunted History Tours, New Orleans Ghost Tour, and Historic New Orleans Walking Tours.

Read more about New Orleans' most haunted destinations here.

Catacombs of Paris: Paris, France
The Catacombs of Paris (L'Ossuaire Municipal) houses a vast collection of human bones in a network of subterranean tunnels and caverns. The catacombs were created in the 1780s to house remains overspilling from the city's overcrowded and badly maintained cemeteries - it's thought that there are around six million Parisians buried in the catacombs.

Believers maintain that the way the bones were uprooted from their original resting spots and placed in the tunnels was disrespectful and this is what causes the paranormal hoo-hah in the catacombs. There have been reports of ghostly voices and moving shadows down in the underground tunnels. Are you brave enough to handle it...?

Find out more about the Catacombs Ghost Tour here.

Have you been on a ghost tour? Which one did you take and what did you think?

Photo Credits: "Ghost Tour" by thecnote; "Haunted? 1140 Royal Street" by raelb; "Catacombs" by jrmyst. All via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Paladares and Pouring Rain in Old Havana, Cuba

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 23:27:00 GMT

By Christina Newberry

Old Havana in the rain is an amazing place to be. After two weeks in Cuba, in the hottest weather I have ever known, the rains came. We were on our way to dinner, looking for a place that had been recommended to us, one of Havana's many paladares—family-run, home-based restaurants—which are often unmarked and known only by word of mouth.

Our taxi driver, of course, had never heard of the place we were looking for, so he dropped us off somewhere in the middle of Old Havana and left us to find our way. We had been wandering without luck for about ten minutes when the clouds broke. Within seconds the rain was coming down in sheets and we were soaked to the skin. The streets quickly emptied as locals sought shelter in their homes, and the few tourists who were in the area took refuge under whatever cover they could find.

Our refuge was a tunnel where a road went under a raised apartment building. In the tunnel there was a group of young boys playing a kind of handball. They seemed oblivious to the rain, playing and shouting for the ball or score, plunging through the large puddle forming in the middle of the road as we stayed close to the raised edges of the tunnel in an attempt to keep our shoes dry.

Watching the boys, we realised our own foolishness in hiding from the warm rain, and we emerged from our hideaway back into the near-deserted streets of Havana. We found the street where we had been told the paladar was located. We walked up and down the block three times before we noticed a young woman sitting on the side of the road. We asked her if she knew of the place, and she stood up and yelled up at the window above. A man upstairs threw down a key: we had found our paladar.

We had an enormous and wonderful meal in the upstairs room that was covered but had open walls through which we watched and heard the rain. The huge and beautiful rooster that lived in the upstairs courtyard kept his eye on the weather as well. By the time we had finished our meal and paid the small bill, the rain had stopped. It stopped as suddenly as it had come, and we arrived back at our apartment happy and dry. My memories of Cuba will stay with me forever, and I will always be grateful that I chanced to experience Old Havana in the rain.

For more information about paladares in Havana visit these websites:

Photo Credits: "Lluvia" by javiekitela; "Domesticity in Old Havana" by peamasher; "paladar la guarida" by bruna benvegnù. All images via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Hotel Review: The Napasai - Koh Samui, Thailand

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 23:38:00 GMT

No matter how many miles you've travelled to get to The Napasai, as soon as you collapse into your enormous white bed, listening to nothing but the sound of lapping waves, rustling palms and humming cicadas, you'll know your journey has been worth it.

A few weeks after my own trip to The Napasai, the word that comes to mind when summing it up is serene. It is the perfect place for some serious R, R and R (if you feel like throwing in some romance to the old equation).

Unlike so many of Koh Samui's resorts, The Napasai is set in 17 acres of private tropical gardens and is blissfully free from irksome next door neighbours and their accompanying noise. Whichever room category you opt for, you're guaranteed unmarred views over Ban Tai beach and the Gulf of Thailand all the way to the horizon where Samui's sister islands, Koh Panghan (where the famous full moon parties take place) and Koh Tao rise up from the sea.

The resort is made up of Sea View Cottages, Beachfront Cottages, Garden Cottage Suites, Beachfront Cottage Suites and private villas, all of which are decorated in the traditional Thai style – like Jim Thompson's famous Bangkok house on a smaller scale – and dotted with clusters of fresh orchids. The cottages are spacious, quiet and comfortable, with private balconies where you can sit and soak up the incredible views. The bedrooms have both an enormous king-sized bed, and a Thai style day bed. The bathrooms come with big tubs, perfect for soaking in, and delicious Panpuri natural products that have been created especially for The Napasai (you'll want to fill your whole suitcase with them).

The real show stoppers at The Napasai though are its infinity pool, set just above the resort's private beach, and the beach itself, with those unbroken views across to Koh Pangnan and Koh Tao. The Napasai staff even equips you with a flag when you're relaxing on the beach so you don't have to stir yourself to fetch a drink – hoist the flag and they'll come to you. Sunbathing doesn't get much better than that. When we were there the little beach was so deserted it felt like a private slice of island paradise.

Despite our best efforts to try out the spa we couldn't get an appointment, which I suppose is a sign that the treatments are good. You can put the big tub in your room to use though and ask the spa to run you a special treatment bath to take the edge of jetlag or sunburn.

The in resort dining options are fairly standard. As we were only on Samui for two days we didn't have much time to explore other local options, although I can recommend Nikki Beach on Lipa Noi (approx. 20 minutes away from The Napasai) for fab sundowners and chic day-bed style dining.

The Napasai is one of those places that you don't want to leave, to the detriment of any Samui sightseeing plans you may have, but it guarantees you'll come away having indulged in low-key but luxurious R, R (and R) time.

The Napasai
65/10 Baan Tai, Maenam, Koh Samui, Surat Thani, 84330, Thailand; Tel: +66 (0)77 42 92 00; Fax: +66 (0)77 42 92 01; Email: info@napasai.com; Web: www.napasai.com.

Nikki Beach
96/3 Moo 2 Lipa Noi, Koh Samui, Surat Thani, 84140, Thailand; Tel: +66 (0)77 914 500; Web: www.nikkibeach.com/kohsamui.

All photos are ©Emma Torry except Seaview cottage at Napasai, which is ©Orient-Express Hotels.

Travel Tips: Mineral Pools of the North Island, New Zealand

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 22:53:00 GMT

By Turner Wright

As one of the great adventure capitals of the world, New Zealand boasts an impressive array of activities for travellers: bungy jumping in Queenstown, skydiving in Taupo, Zorbing in Rotorua. Not to mention a full assortment of hot springs in which to ease those weary bones after a long day on the road.

To many travellers familiar with hot springs around the world, most of New Zealand's should come as a pleasant surprise, especially those located on the South Island. The main problem with the hot springs on the North Island is determining which pools are "authentic". In Rotorua, a town practically full to the brim with hot water - and smelling strongly of sulphur - nearly every motel and motor inn advertises their features: Sky TV, high speed internet, and hot pools. Catch the scam? Of course not. You would think by spending the evening in an establishment in the heart of a hot spring village you would be entitled to soak in real hot spring water (as opposed to heated tap water). Unfortunately, the sign you should have been seeking was "mineral pools", not hot pools; the terminology varies by location.

I suppose there are certain slang terms and ways of deceiving cash customers in any country... hot pools, hot springs, mineral pools... you can't go wrong with the name waiariki; the original Maori term, meaning "chiefly waters", which commonly refers to outdoor pools in the countryside, as opposed to some of the more family friendly resorts like Miranda - they may claim to have the largest hot pool in the southern hemisphere, but that doesn't change the fact it's nothing more than a glorified water park, designed to entertain kids rather than cater to those seeking to enjoy a quiet soak as the sun slowly sets.

These are the most chiefly waters I know on New Zealand's North Island.

1) Ngawha Springs, Northland

Ngawha (pronounced "nafa") is the sole source of mineral pools in Northland. Well off the beaten path and not mentioned in Lonely Planet, these waiariki pools vary in temperature and mineral content. If you feel like getting scalded or have skin as tough as the first Maori to take a soak, check out the Bull Dog bath at 45 degrees C. Want to ease into the hotter ones first? Soloman is a favourite of mine at 36 degrees, and I also enjoyed the rich milky baths on the other side of the complex to cool off. Best of all, these waters are in wooden tubs crafted from native wood, set in an area so remote it's unlikely to ever be full to the brim with tourists or families. Word of warning: don't plan to keep whatever bathing suit you choose to wear; the minerals will stain almost any material a nice off-colour puke, and leave it smelling like delicious sulphur. Hold off on showering after you visit; although the smell may not be best suited to help you pick up members of the opposite sex, the minerals will continue revitalizing your skin as long as it remains.

2) Hot Water Beaches

Being buried in hot sand is a little unnerving to many first timers; often the first question I hear is: "Can I get out from underneath if there's a problem?" No worries; you're in New Zealand, and you only have to dig a hole, not bury yourself inside it. Sand baths like these exist the world over, from Ibusuki, Japan, to Deception Island, Antarctica. When you're on the North Island, there are two such places I would recommend:

Hot Water Beach, Coromandel Peninsula
Go hire a shovel from the nearby Hot Water Beach shop and dig yourself a nice little spot of paradise on this sandy beach. It's a delicate balance determining exactly when to soak, but generally, two hours before and after the low tide is safe. Just be sure not to cool yourself off in the ocean if you're feeling particularly sweaty; this beach, along with several others in the area, has particularly dangerous rips and undertows.

Te Puia Hot Spings, Kawhia
If you're looking for a hot water beach well beyond the reaches of Auckland and most tourists' tracks, head south of the surfing city of Raglan and keep going until you hit hot black sand. The beaches of Kawhia give off a pleasant, but not overwhelming, smell of sulphur. Only this time, plan to bring a shovel from home.

3) Rotorua

Rotorua is essentially one big hot pool. You don't even have to travel outside the city limits to find some decent places to soak, but if you do feel like a short drive, the Wai Ora Spa in Tikitere (Hell's Gate) is the way to go; prepare to pay far more than you would at any other hot pool, but the hot mud treatment is worth the weight off your wallet. Closer to downtown, the Polynesian Spa is probably the classier route, with private pools and a great view of Lake Rotorua, but don't shy away from the Blue Baths, either; the main pool is little more than lukewarm even on the hottest summer day, but the adjacent baths seem to be fed directly from the spring. Next to Ngawha, the hottest I have yet experienced in a waiariki.

In my humble opinion, however, the city's main attraction is the smallest of all. As you ride the bus in from Auckland, the smell of sulphur seeps in from Kuirau Park, the site on which you should focus your photography efforts: boiling mud pools, steaming hot springs, and children playing nearby. Best of all, this park is home to something I had not expected to see outside of the island of Kyushu in Japan: foot baths. Take it from me, my friends, there is nothing sweeter in life than going for a barefoot run in this park just as the sun is beginning to rise, letting your toes freeze in the morning dew, and then taking a break in one of the few foot baths to warm yourself. "Sweet as", as the Kiwis would say.

4) Taupo Plateau

I can only offer you one bit of advice when it comes to soaking in Taupo: get out of town. The Taupo region has some of the best hot pools on both the North and South Island, but the pickings are slim in urban areas. If you're headed north-east, you must relax in Kerosene Creek's jacuzzi pool or the aptly-named 'Paradise' to the east of Lake Ohakuri. In addition, there are many natural springs on private property; it's best to call the owners ahead of time if you're planning a trip (see www.nzhotpools.co.nz for details).

If you have only a short stay in New Zealand and hot springs are your goal, focus all your efforts on Taupo and its surroundings. Want to throw some of that famous New Zealand adrenaline into the mix? Jump out of a perfectly good aeroplane before you hit the baths.

5) At the End of a Great Walk

"In the middle of the journey of my life, I found myself astray in a dark wood, where the straight road had been lost." How unfortunate Dante chose to hike into Hell rather than the Lake Waikaremoana Track, one of New Zealand's nine 'Great Walks'. He could have found a pool full of soothing water waiting for him rather than an ominous gateway.

Maungataniwha Hot Springs is in fact a little off the Lake Waikaremoana Track, but well within the boundaries of Te Urewera National Park, the largest on the North Island. The best route would probably be to stop at the Parahaki Hut overnight then make your way over to the springs: hot water rolling down a rock face. You'll probably have to dig a small pool to enjoy a soak, but won't all that effort be worth it after a "mere" seven hours' hiking? Definitely. For detailed directions, check out Sally Jackson's "Hot Springs of New Zealand" or Lonely Planet's "Tramping in New Zealand".

Photo Credits: New Zealand Hot Springs by jjay69; "Enjoying a hot bath!" by magical-world; "Rotorua, Te Whakarewarewa" by vtveen; "Taupo Hot Springs" by xoque.

Travel Tips: Britain's Top 10 Historic Places

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 23:46:00 GMT

One of Britain's greatest treasures is the plethora of historic houses, estates, gardens, churches and ancient ruins that run the length and breadth of cities and countryside alike.

With such a rich past Britain is teeming with places of historical significance, and it's hard to narrow down your choices of where to visit. Here we have rounded up a list of ten of the National Trust's most visited properties to give you an insight into Britain's most precious of historic gems.

Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Water Garden, North Yorkshire

Like India's Taj Mahal, the pyramids at Giza in Egypt and the Acropolis at Athens, Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Water Garden is a World Heritage Site made up of 800 hectares of spectacular ruins and stunning parks, including a medieval deer park – grazed today by 500 Red, Sika, and Fallow Deer – and the largest abbey ruins in the country. Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Water Garden was recognised by UNESCO for its 18th Century landscape, 12th Century Abbey (founded by Benedictine monks in 1132), Elizabethan Fountains Hall and Victorian St Mary's Church. Over 300,000 visitors a year come to soak up the history and culture at this important English landmark.

The estate sits in an area of outstanding natural beauty in the valley of the river Skell, 30 miles away from the city of York.

Stourhead Garden, Wiltshire

Stourhead is home to a world-famous 18th-century landscape garden, a "first-of-its-kind" Palladian mansion, parkland, woods and chalk downs. Named after the Stourton family who lived in the estate for 700 years, Stourhead was sold in 1717 to Henry Hoare. The original house was demolished and a new mansion was built in the Palladian style. Over the next 200 years the Hoare family collected art and antiques, which are exhibited still today, and built a number of temples and follies in the gardens designed to show off their education and wealth. The views over three counties from the top of King Alfred's Tower shouldn't be missed.

Polesden Lacey, Surrey

Once the honeymoon spot for King George VI and the Queen Mother, Polesden Lacey is a Regency house boasting opulent Edwardian interiors, an interesting collection of Old Masters paintings, and stunning views across the North Downs.

Polesden Lacey was last home to the Edwardian society hostess the Hon. Mrs Greville, as well as to the playwright Richard Sheridan at the end of the 18th century. Not to be missed are the beautiful walled rose garden, Polesden Lacey's extensive grounds and lawns, and the landscape walks.

Wakehurst Palace, West Sussex

If you're into botanical gardens, the Elizabethan Wakehurst Palace in West Sussex is the place to go, and there are over 477,000 visitors a year who will agree. The property is run by the famous Kew Gardens and is an important site for plant conservation and research, with more than a billion seeds collected so far for future preservation. Wakehurst Palace has the world's largest growing Christmas Tree: it is 35m tall and is lit by 1,800 energy saving lights from advent to Twelfth Night. Kenneth Branagh used Wakehurst Palace as the location for much of his 2006 film "As You Like It".

St. Michael's Mount, Cornwall

Legend, myth and history abound at St. Michael's Mount in Cornwall. A giant named Cormoran is said to have lived on the Mount; he was followed by monks, pilgrims, armies, fleets, and many more besides. In 495 a fisherman is said to have seen an apparition of the Archangel St. Michael, and four miracles are said to have occurred at St. Michael's Mount between 1262 and 1263. During the Wars of the Roses the island was under siege for six months, and then later, in 1588, it the first beacon was lit on the Mount to warn of the Spanish Armada. From 1642 to 1646, St. Michael's Mount saw bloody skirmishes between Royalists and Oliver Cromwell's New Model Army.

Quarry Bank Mill and Styal Estate, Cheshire

You can still feel the pulse of the Industrial Revolution, which changed the face of Britain, at Quarry Bank Mill and the Styal Estate in Cheshire. On a visit to the cotton mill you will experience life as a mill worker, and a tour of the Apprentice House, will shed light on the lives of the Industrial Era's child workforce.

Chartwell, Kent

Chartwell was the family home of one of Britain's most famous Prime Ministers, Sir William Churchill, who bought the property for its views over the Weald of Kent to Sussex. The rooms and gardens have been preserved to be as similar as possible to when Churchill lived at Chartwell, with pictures, books, maps, honours, medals and personal mementoes on show.

Bodnant Garden, Gwynedd, Wales

You can see the Snowdonia Mountains from Bodnant's spectacular terraced gardens. Set above a valley and the River Conwy, Bodnant Garden is home to plants from all over the world, particularly China, North America, Europe and Japan.

Bodiam Castle, East Sussex

Bodiam Castle is dates back to medieval times and it famous for its battlements, ramparts and moat. The castle was built in 1385 by Sir Edward Dalyngrigge, with the permission of Richard II, in order to defend against French invasion during the Hundred Years' War. Fans of "Monty Python and the Holy Grail" will recognise the Bodiam as the film's Swamp Castle.

Corfe Castle, Dorset

Corfe Castle is one of the oldest and most evocative castles in England. Over its 1,000 year history it has seen the alleged murder of King Edward the Martyr, royal hunts, palace life during the reign of King John and sieges during the English Civil War. It was during a siege in 1646 that the castle was demolished and ruined by Parliamentarians; much of the stone was used to build the houses of Corfe Castle Village. Today visitors can enjoy the interactive castle tour, plus walks through the surrounding Purbeck Hills.

Have you visited any of Britain's historic palaces, places and properties? Where did you most enjoy and why?

Photo Credits: Fountains Abbey by yewenyi; Stourhead by Joe Dunckley; Polesden Lacey by swamibu; Wakehurst Palace by Anguskirk; St. Michael's Mount by Michal Osmenda; Quarry Bank Mill and Bodnant Gardnes by zund; Chartwell by johnmuk; Bodiam Castle by Sacred Destinations; Corfe Castle by Steve9091. All photos via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Travel Tips: 10 Things You Definitely Should NOT Do In Japan

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 19:32:00 GMT

By Turner Wright

When you are travelling in Japan follow these simple guidelines to ensure that cultural misunderstandings (or worse) do not occur.

10) Misuse Your Shoes

Thresholds at businesses and all homes and apartments in Japan have a convenient place for you to store your shoes and don borrowed slippers for your journey. However, did you know you should never wear slippers on tatami mats? It's also a huge cultural faux-pas to come out of the bathroom still wearing toilet slippers, as they've been rubbing on dirty linoleum (although this even slips Japanese minds from time to time).

9) Bathe in the Bathtub
The bathing culture in Japan is unparalleled. Even if I soak in a mineral pool in the backwoods of New Zealand, nothing will make me feel more cleansed inside and out than a soak in a traditional Japanese hot spring resort. Ignoring the fact the water is still hotter and contains more minerals than most hot pools abroad, Japanese bathing etiquette dictates one should shower thoroughly before entering the steaming bath; if you were to do otherwise in Japanese homes (as a guest you would be given the honour of bathing first) the family would have to completely drain the tub, clean out the ring, and refill. You'd probably just be kicked out if you brought soap and shampoo into the pool at a public bathhouse.

8) Fumble with Chopsticks

You don't have to be able to pick up an individual grain of rice to use chopsticks properly. Rather, just be aware that there are a few things for which they were not meant to be used. First, even if you're sharing dishes with a group, do not pass food from one set of chopsticks to another, as this is considered in bad taste. Second, when not using them, set your chopsticks across your plate or bowl as you would a knife; poking them out of your rice resembles two sticks of incense commonly used for a certain death ceremony... and why would you want to be reminded of that over a fine dinner?

7) Grope on a Train

Obviously this isn't a mere misunderstanding of cultures if such an act were to occur, but even when visiting Japan and having nothing but pure intentions, one should be aware of the dangers. Women (and even men) have been fondled on crowded trains and often cannot trace the hands back to their owners. This has lead to women-only subway cars during peak travel times, and the police giving advice to young girls: seize the arm of your attacker and don't let go until security sees his face. I only mention this because if you're a foreigner riding a train in the land of the rising sun who knows absolutely no Japanese, and when disembarking you find a man or woman screaming "shijou!" or "chikan!", respectively (the terms for female and male perverts), you're essentially at the mercy of one individual who may have mistaken your desire to get a little bit of room on the car as blatant groping.

6) Choose the Wrong Seat
There's a somewhat antiquated custom when it comes to eating out in groups. If you're with some business colleagues, it's better for a junior member (in terms of hierarchy, not age) to take the seat closest to the doorway or access point, the senior member the farthest away. The belief is that should an attack occur, the least experienced (thus the least valuable) will be killed first, giving the others time to mobilize and protect the higher-ups.

5) Show Strong Emotions
One of the most common mistakes a foreigner makes upon entering the Japanese business world is to openly express his frustration when the unexpected comes along... and it always comes along. Showing strong emotions like anger is a social death sentence in Japan; the only time someone might get away with it would be if he were seriously inebriated, or at least making the effort to get there. Tears, especially those of happiness, can be forgiven (even from men), but take care to keep your temper in check.

4) Blow Your Nose
Even out on the street when it's sub-zero degree weather, blowing your nose in Japan is probably one of the rudest things you can do, even more so if you're talking with someone face-to-face and take a moment to pull out your handkerchief. It's the equivalent of asking someone to watch you use the toilet.

3) Yawn
This is a good policy for conversations around the world, but it really hits home in Japan. Whereas in the States or other countries one might dismiss a tired expression with a certain nonchalance or a chuckle (e.g. "crazy night on the town?"), in Japan you might as well slap your superior in the face to completely prove your desire not to listen.

2) When Listening...
I had an interview with an English school in Akita Prefecture not too long ago. As I was listening to the manager speak via Skype, I realised how out of practice I was at listening by Japanese standards. He spoke for only a few seconds at a time, each time taking my silence as an indication that the call must have been disconnected. Why? Because I failed to provide the appropriate guttural sounds: when speaking one-on-one with someone in Japan (group meetings can be an exception), it's best to utter a few words every now and again to show you still have the speaker's attention. A simple hai (yes), or so des ne (ah, I see) can work wonders.

1) Respect Yourself
Modesty is a virtue. I cannot count the number of times as an English teacher I gave high praise to certain young Japanese students, only to have their parents contradict me by saying something like "yes, but she's terrible studying at home" or "no, you must be mistaken". Disregarding or refusing complements in Japan is the only way to accept them graciously:

(in Japanese)
Me: Excuse me, but could you tell me the way to the nearest train station?
Japanese: Ooohhh! Your Japanese is so skillful!
Me: No, no, it's nothing really.

By claiming you have no skills or any life experience exceeding that of another, you in fact raise their impression of you. If I were to refer to myself as "Turner-san" or respond to such praise of my language skills with "Thank you very much! I have been diligently studying for nine months!", then I might be forgiven as an ignorant foreigner... but more likely marked as arrogant.

Photo Credits: Slippers by amirjina; Chopsticks by KaiChanVong; Morning Train by gullevek via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Shot of the Day: Polar Bear Cub Plays Piggyback

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 20:35:00 GMT

Angela Plumb, a tourist from the UK, captured this rare shot of a seven-month-old polar bear cub riding on its mother's back from a ship in the Svalbard archipelago - midway between mainland Norway and the North Pole.

The polar bear mother is wearing a radio collar, which prompted Mrs Plumb to contact Dr Jon Aars, from the Norwegian Polar Institute in Tromso, to ask whether this was a common sighting.

"I hadn't seen this behaviour before or heard about it so I asked other researchers and found out it is something that has been observed but not frequently at all," Dr Aars says.

Via the BBC website.

Kingfisher Airlines Launches Routes from Mumbai to Singapore and Hong Kong

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 00:42:00 GMT

Kingfisher Airlines, India's only Five Star airline rated by Skytrax, has launched new daily non-stop flights between Mumbai and Singapore and Mumbai and Hong Kong. The flights on both these routes are operated using the new Airbus A330-200s configured with two classes - Kingfisher First and Kingfisher Class.

Kingfisher First passengers can enjoy a bar staffed with a bartender and a break-out seating area; an in-seat massager on every seat; mood lighting with starry sky; and in-seat chargers.

Kingfisher Airlines flight IT 071 takes off from Mumbai at 10:55pm and arrives in Hong Kong at 8:05am. The return flight IT 072 takes off from Hong Kong at 2:05pm and arrives in Mumbai at 5:50 pm.

Kingfisher Airlines flight IT 029 takes off from Mumbai at 11:05pm and arrives at Singapore at 7:05am. The return flight IT 030 takes off from Singapore at 10:15am and arrives in Mumbai at 1:05pm.

Travel Book Recommendation: 'Blood River' by Tim Butcher

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 23:41:00 GMT

I've just finished reading Tim Butcher's book, 'Blood River: A Journey to Africa's Broken Heart', about his 600 mile journey overland (bar one helicopter journey) across the Congo from Lake Tanganyika to Boma. I couldn't put it down.

Butcher tells the story of his "suicidal" expedition through the Congo, as he follows in the footsteps of Henry Morton ("Dr. Livingstone, I presume?") Stanley, the Victorian journalist / explorer who charted the Congo in 999 days. He ties the narrative of his journey to accounts of the country's compelling and turbulent history.

He is helped across the Congo by UN peacekeepers, aid workers, a pygmy rights advocate, monks, rebel leaders, relics of the Colonial era, a drunk motorbike owner and many more colourful characters. Almost everyone Butcher meets he interviews, resulting in a fascinating patchwork of histories, stories and experiences.

In his own words, his Congo journey was not "adventure travel" but more "ordeal travel". Along the way Butcher encounters stumbling block after stumbling block, finally beating the obstacles corrupt officials, hunger, illness, and political and socio instabilities throw his way.

The journey that took Stanley three years, and cost the lives of hundreds of tribesmen, took Butcher 44 days. Along the way he witnesses the scars of the Congo Wars - burnt out villages, exposed human remains, marauding Mai Mai gunmen - and the regression of a country whose grandparents remember modernity, but whose children have only ever seen its relics. As Butcher puts it, the modern world "had tried, but failed, to establish itself in the Congo".

The Congo may have been a glamorous host to Evelyn Waugh, Graham Greene, Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn once upon a time, but today it is "the most daunting, backward country on earth"; as Butcher laments, he "touched the heart of Africa and found it broken".

'Blood River' is a gripping and gruesome, passionate and poignant, historical and harrowing account of a country that was once a functioning place, but is now "undeveloping", spiralling backwards to a state very similar to that which Stanley witnessed in the 1870s. The Congo is "a place where the hands of the clock spin not forward, but backwards."

Find out more about 'Blood River' here.

Photo Credit: 'Pirogues on the Congo' by Julien Harneis.

Vikings Warned Against Travel to Scotland

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 00:59:00 GMT

A thirteenth century Norse "travel guide" advised Vikings against all but essential travel to Scotland, or Skotland, as it was then known. The Vikings were warned about dangerous natives, an incomprehensible language, and terrible weather; upon arrival, Norsemen had to be prepared to suffer instant attack.

A new interpretation of the medieval Icelandic Sagas (Íslendingasögur) - a literary phenomenon of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries – reveals that Scotland as worth a trip for marauding "Icelanders who want to practise robbery". However, Vikings were warned that a jaunt to Scotland might cost them their lives.

The chronicles, which were written were written on yellowed calf vellum 800 years ago, have been interpreted by Gisli Sigurdsson, a historian at Reykjavik University, who believes the sagas – part fiction, part fact – reveal how the ancient Norse were less bloodthirsty than legend has them.

One saga tells of a Scot called Grjotgard, a kinsman of Melkolf, King of Scotland (Malcolm II), who intercepted a party of arriving Vikings in a western sea loch. He warned: "You have two choices. You can go ashore and we will take all your property, or we'll attack you and kill every man we lay our hands on".

Unsurprisingly, the Norsemen were nervous about sailing up the west coast sea lochs which they dubbed the 'Scottish fjords'. Orkney, however, is described as a useful base for Vikings wanting to pillage Scotland – as is Fort Skardaborg, which is today's Scarborough.

Orkney historian Tom Muir said: "They picked weak targets, like monasteries. Some of the monasteries were basically unguarded banks of cash with a sign above them saying 'free money'. The truth is that there were raids both ways and that the Norse had every reason to fear their Celtic neighbours."

Though recorded in the 13th century, accounts in the Icelandic Sagas are based on events that happened 200 years earlier. The chronicles served as route guides for raiders, traders, crusaders and explorers, effectively a road map of medieval Europe and the Middle East. They have proved remarkably accurate, even helping archaeologists to pinpoint the remains of a Norse village in Newfoundland.

Photo Credits: Viking by chatirygirl.

Go Naked Rambling in Germany

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 19:31:00 GMT

German nudists are to get their own 18km (11 mile) long hiking trail in the Harz mountain range so they can ramble in nothing but their birthday suits, Reuters reports.

Campsite owner, Heinz Ludwig, who has spearheaded the project to create the nudist trail says: "I think it's a great way to promote tourism here, there's already been a lot of interest in it."

Running between the village of Dankerode and the Wippertal dam, the 18km naturist trail is marked up with signs warning clothed walkers that they might encounter hikers in the buff.

According to Reuters, one of the signs reads: "If you don't want to see people with nothing on then you should refrain from moving on!".

Since about the 1980s there has been an extensive removal of restrictions on public nudity in Germany, and Freikörperkultur or FKK (Free Body Culture) is a popular pastime.

Over in the Swiss Alps however, naked rambling has been banned. The Swiss canton of Appenzell Innerrhoden has made nude hiking illegal this year in response to an influx of FKK walkers, many of which were crossing over to the Swiss Alps from Germany.

Photo by ricardo.martins via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Stunning Safari Moments: Kruger National Park, South Africa

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 22:40:00 GMT

The Kruger National Park is home to around 145 species of mammal, which includes an estimated 1,500 lion, 12,000 elephant, 2,500 buffalo, 1,000 leopards and 5,000 rhino (black and white). So, spotting the "big five" is a big possibility.

With all its flora and fauna, the Kruger offers some of the most stunning photographic moments. Here we pick a few of our favourites.

Leopards are usually so shy, and primarily nocturnal, so this shot taken in the Kruger National Park captures a rarely seen leopard moment.

You probably don't immediately associate Ground Hornbills with South African safaris, but this bird is gorgeous, and looks like she's all dolled up for a night on the town. Loving the yawning hippo - incredible colours, reflections and light. A lioness flirts with the camera.

A zebra rolls in the dust, and although the zebra would disagree, we think this little lion cub is almost too gorgeous to be true...

Adult elephants in the Kruger National Park protecting their young.

A Kruger elephant stands alone.

A Nile crocodile offers a look at the more sinister side to the Kruger National Park.

Two giraffe silhouetted against the South African sunrise.

Red Billed Oxpeckers get to work on a giraffe hide - they feed exclusively on the backs of large mammals.

In a rare moment, a male lion shows a cub some lion love.

Two endangered Black Rhinoceros stand and deliver.

Photo Credits: All Kruger National Park photographs by Arno & Louise via Flickr (Creative Commons).

The Photographer's Guide to Hong Kong

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Mon, 14 Sep 2009 23:02:00 GMT

Hong Kong is full of extraordinary photo opportunities for travellers. It is a region of marked contrasts: slick vertiginous skyscrapers, ramshackle traditional Chinese buildings, bustling markets, breathtaking mountains and gorgeous beaches. Travellers with an interest in photography will be richly rewarded by a visit to Hong Kong. Here are our top spots for hot Hong Kong shots.

Top Hong Kong Views:

City skyline from Kowloon
This just never fails to impress. Hong Kong is a seriously photogenic city!
Hong Kong from The Peak

Again, a classic spot to get a fab Hong Kong shot, and one that won't let you down (unless the weather is miserable). If you want the city by night shot prepare to jostle with other photographers at dusk for a prime spot along Lugard Road.

Neon Signs on Nathan Road

In many respects Hong Kong comes to life after dark. The city is full of neon signs like this one, especially around Nathan Road, Mongkok, Causeway Bay and Wanchai.

Pristine Beaches in Sai Kung Country Park
In a city as hectic and (often) as polluted as Hong Kong, the beaches in Sai Kung - such as Tai Long Wan - have got to be seen to be believed. Deserted, unspoiled and tranquil are the three words that spring immediately to mind.
Sea and mountain views along The Dragon's Back trail, Shek O
Dubbed "Best Urban Hike" by Time Magazine, The Dragon's Back Trail is an 8.5km trail (with a 5km get out option!) through lush forests, across gurgling waterfalls and along the Dragon's Back ridge. It offers fantastic views of Hong Kong island's mountains and southern coast line. On a good day you can see out to some of the outlying islands.

Hong Kong History & Culture

Man Mo Temple, Hollywood Road

Built in 1847, the Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road is dedicated to two gods, Man the god of literature and Mo the god of war. The centre of the temple is filled with hundreds of burning incense sticks and coils. Watch a video of the Man Mo Temple.

Mahjong
You'll hear the clicking and clacking of the tiles before you see the players. Mahjong matches take place in shops and cafes across the city.
Fortune Tellers, Temple Street Market (near Tin Hau temple)
You can have your fortune told by a man or a bird (no joke); whatever you choose you're guaranteed great photos.
Tian Tan Buddha (aka The Big Buddha), Lantau Island
This imposing statue makes a great photographic subject. The 110 ft tall Buddha sits serenely near the Po Lin Monastery at Ngong Ping on Lantau Island.
World War II bunkers
There are masses of deserted World War II bunkers across Hong Kong. They serve as a reminder of what happened before and after the Battle of Hong Kong, which began on 8 December 1941 and ended on Christmas Day with Hong Kong surrendering to Japan.
Junks
There are very few traditional junks (Chinese sailboats) left in Hong Kong, but there are certainly some to snap. The most obvious is the reproduction Aqua Luna, with its distinctive red sails, which crosses between Hong Kong island and Tsim Sha Tsui daily and nightly. The second one that springs to mind is the Duk Ling junk.

Hong Kong's Architecture

Bank of China Tower
Criticised by some practitioners of Feng Shui, but praised by most others, The Bank of China Tower is one of the most recognisable buildings in Hong Kong. The design is said to resemble growing bamboo shoots, symbolising livelihood and prosperity.
International Finance Centre (IFC)
So photogenic that it featured in the recent Batman film, The Dark Knight. The IFC was the city's tallest building until 2008, but has now been usurped by the ICC.
The Center
Another location used in The Dark Knight, The Center is best viewed at night when the building's neon lights change colours.
Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wanchai
Whether you think it looks like a turtle of a strange armadillo, this building definitely got some interesting curves!
Statue Square
The 19th century Statue Square, with its colonial architecture, makes a great place to photograph the old against the new. Nearby buildings include the impressive HSBC headquarters building, and the IFC.
Traditional Shop Fronts, Central and Wanchai
Dotted amongst the ultra-modern buildings of Central and Wanchai are pockets of traditional shop fronts that have (so far) survived demolition. Where you do find them you can get a sense of what Hong Kong must have looked like until reclamation began on a large scale.

Hong Kong Icons

Star Ferry
As well as being a Hong Kong icon in its own right, the Star Ferry is also a brilliant place to photograph the famous view of Victoria Harbour and the Hong Kong skyline.
Peak Tram
The Peak Tram has been running from Central to Victoria Peak since 1888. It covers 1.4km up a staggering gradient, and offers impressively vertiginous photo opps over the harbour and skyscrapers of Hong Kong.
Happy Valley Racecourse
From September to early July Hong Kong's horse races at Happy Valley are not to be missed. Jockeys in colourful silks, gleaming race horses, and a very vibrant crowd make this a hot spot for photographers. Watch a video of the racing at Happy Valley.
Trams

Hong Kong has the only tram network in the world that exclusively runs double decker trams. The trams have been running since 1904 and still serve 240,000 commuters every day. They trundle between Shau Kei Wan and Kennedy Town, with a branch connecting to Happy Valley. A trip costs just HK$2 per adult, which is amazing photographic value-for-money.

The Quieter Side of Hong Kong

Seafood restaurants and villages, Lamma Island
See a fish, pick a fish, eat that fish. The seafood restaurants on laid-back Lamma are legendary. Let your lens go into overdrive as you capture village life and seafood feasts.
Hiking trails, New Territories
Dramatic views, seclusion and a whole lot of green. These trails offer photographers fantastic shots of Hong Kong's wild side.
Tai O village, Lantau Island

Visit Tai O to shoot the scenic Pang Uks (stilt houses), that reach out right over the water. The traditional salted fish and shrimp paste shop fronts also make good photographic fodder.

Tai Chi
In the early morning people all over Hong Kong head to their nearest outdoor space to practise Tai Chi. The Zoological and Botanical Garden is a great place to shoot if you're willing to get up early (Tai Chi kicks off at about 6:30am).

Hong Kong Festivals

Chinese New Year
Chinese New Year is a great time to photograph heaving temples, bustling flower markets, Lai See packets, and the city's biggest celebrations.
Autumn Festival

After Chinese New Year, this is Hong Kong's biggest celebration and makes for great photographs. Shops, restaurants and outdoor spaces are decorated with lanterns and ribbons. Mooncakes are exchanged, and dragon dances take place across the city. One of the best places to celebrate the Autumn Festival is Victoria Park in Causeway Bay.

Hong Kong Markets

The Wet Markets
More death, decapitation and de-scaling than you can imagine, but the wet markets are a brilliant place to get interesting, vibrant shots of Hong Kongers buying their fresh fish, meat and vegetables. Check out the market on Graham Street in Central. Watch a video of a Hong Kong market.
Bird Market, Mong Kok
The Yuen Po Street Bird Market is where Hong Kong's songbird owners gather to show off and sell birds in intricately carved cages. Open daily from 7am - 8pm.
Flower Market, Mong Kok
The Flower Market's exotic blooms make for some great photographs. Come before Chinese New Year to see families buying auspicious plants to celebrate the new Lunar year. Open daily from 7am - 7pm.
Goldfish Market, Mong Kok

Goldfish and exotic species of every size, shape and colour are on display here in aquariums and bags. Head to Tung Choi Street to shoot the spectacle. Open daily from 10:30am - 10pm.

We hope you have a brilliant photo tour of Hong Kong and a fantastic time capturing this amazing city on film. To see more photos of Hong Kong from iloho.com click here.

Photo Credits: 'Hong Kong from The Peak' by Emma Torry; 'Nathan road, Kowloon' by JoopDorresteijn; 'Prayers...' by Hina :-); 'Traditional shop in Central' by Emma Torry; 'Blue House in Wanchai' by Taekwonweirdo; 'Apocalypse Now' by .mushi_king; 'Lantern Festival Bird' by timlam18; 'Goldfish Market' by sebr.

Seeing Ghosts and Spirits in New Orleans

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Thu, 10 Sep 2009 22:45:00 GMT

By Connie Motz

Looking for something different to do in New Orleans? How does a narrated walking tour through the cobblestoned French Quarter sound? Fairly normal I hear you say, but think again… Thrill seekers can get their kicks at night in "the most haunted city in America," on a walking tour in search of New Orleans' ghosts and spirits.

What will you see on a haunted tour? Who knows: so be sure to take your camera with plenty of film or lots of space on your memory card just in case; when it comes to the paranormal photographs of seemingly uneventful scenes and uninteresting objects can show eerie shapes and strange shadows once they are developed.

Le Petit Theatre du Vieux Carre has been continuously haunted since it was built in 1922. Two young distraught actresses both committed suicide at the theatre; a stagehand from the 1920s still loves to play tricks on current employees; and a ghostly group of children loves to play with the theatre's office equipment.

In the heart of the French Quarter is the Andrew Jackson Hotel, former site of a boarding school where five children lost their lives in a fire in the 1700s. Hotel guests have reported finding photographs on their cameras taken of them from above as they lay sleeping in their beds at night.

The House on Rue Royale is said to be one of the most haunted and most horrific of all the ghostly realms in New Orleans. The mansion was ruled by Mademoiselle Lalaurie who subjected her slaves to various grotesque tortures and caused a little girl to fall from the rooftop to her death in the courtyard below. They say that the screams can still be heard today.

Near Jackson Square is Pirates Alley where the ghost of Jean Lafitte wanders in the early morning hours. His footsteps can be seen on the damp cobblestone street between the Spanish Governor's Mansion and St. Louis Cathedral.

All tour guides within the city of New Orleans are required to be licensed through a combination of residency and general knowledge of the city, so you can be sure that any tour you choose will be informative, safe, and entertaining.

There are several night time tours offered in New Orleans that explore the haunted "hot spots" that have even been featured on The Discovery Channel and The History Channel.

Gray Line Tours features a nightly departure from the Jackson Brewery for a two hour walkabout reasonably priced at USD 22 per adult.

The New Orleans Ghost Tour offered nightly by Haunted History Tours is touted to be the #1 Haunted Tour in the Crescent City. Reservations can be made for the two hour tour online for the price of USD 20 per adult.

For more information on ghostly tours in New Orleans, visit these websites:

Photo Credits: 'Ghosts of New Orleans' by Diamondduste; 'French Quarter - Andrew Jackson Hotel' by David Paul Ohmer via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Explore Taipei on Two Wheels

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Thu, 10 Sep 2009 01:04:00 GMT

If you are travelling to Taiwan's capital, Taipei, then consider exploring the city by bike - both the planet and your wallet will love you.

In a push to make Taipei more environmentally friendly, the city has introduced a system called YouBike that allows visitors to rent one of 500 bicycles from 11 locations across the city.

Once travellers have registered for a YouBike card (short-term and long-term cards are available), rental costs NT$40 (US$1 / £0.70) per day or NT$150 (US$4.50 / £2.70) for 5 days; the first 30 minutes of each session is free and then it costs NT$10 for each additional 15 minutes. A NT$3000 deposit is required.

Bicycle rental is completely automated through the YouBike card.

For more information visit www.youbike.com.tw/upage/english.htm.

Photo by Lin1000.tw via Flickr (Creative Commons).

The Best Suitcases for Business Travellers

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Tue, 08 Sep 2009 23:40:00 GMT

Want to know what to pack up for your next business trip? We've spoken to business travellers from around the world about the suitcases they recommend for business travel and why.

Ranging in price from USD 125/ £75 to USD 900 / £550 there should be something for every kind of business traveller on our list.

So here, without further ado, are the best suitcases for business travellers:

NATE PARKER, NEW YORK

Travels 200,000 - 250,000 miles per year; Suitcase: Tumi's Alpha Classic Garment Bag

I have owned the same Tumi suitcase for 3 years. It is durable, practical and expensive (multiples of what I have paid for any luggage before). However, it has definitely been worth the money as it's proved itself over and over to be long lasting and functional –perfect for business travel.

If I were to replace it I would go either for exactly the same model, or a smaller version of the same. It keeps suits and shirts wrinkle free and is secure if you need to check it in.

I would definitely recommend this suitcase to a friend. I use it bi-weekly and it is very reliable.

Price: USD 495; Size: 45.5cm x 59.5cm x 14cm (HxWxD).

Find out more about Nate's Tumi suitcase.

SARAH MEYER, HONG KONG

Travels 50,000 miles per year; Suitcase: Samsonite Black Label Opto (Tote on Wheels)

I tend to go on short business trips across Asia-Pacific, so the Samsonite Black Label Opto is perfect for my needs. The front part of the case detaches and becomes a laptop bag; the main part fits into the overhead compartment. You get two bags in one, which is pretty neat!

I think it is a pretty standard suitcase / carry on, but it is good for business trips and doesn't either stand out for being too OTT or too scruffy. If it fell apart tomorrow I would probably replace it with something else, just to try out something new, but that doesn't mean I wouldn't recommend it to a friend. My husband uses it for business trips too, and he has also been very happy with it.

Price: £239.78; Size: L44 x H33.5 x W24.5cm; Weight: 3.7kg.

RICHARD ARCHER-PERKINS, SHANGHAI

Travels 250,000 miles per year; Case: Tumi Alpha, Essential Leather Brief

I always travel with a black soft leather Tumi laptop case; I have owned it now for 18 months. It's excellently designed, practical and has useful hidden compartments to store bits and pieces for my computer.

It was definitely worth the money; I use it every day. It is stylish and very well thought out. If it fell apart tomorrow, which I doubt it would, I would replace it with the same Tumi laptop bag. I think it is very secure, it even has a system to track it if it is lost, but I am sure no-one would hand it in – I get too many envious glances when people see me with it!

Price: Approx. USD 495; External Dimensions: 32cm x 40.5cm x 12.75cm (HxWxD); Laptop Compartment Dimensions: 28.5cm x 35cm x 4.5cm (HxWxD).

SIMON HILL, LONDON

Travels 30,000 miles per year; Suitcase: Antler Tronic Z500

My Antler suitcase is practical, reliable and safe. Compared with other similar suitcases I think the price is mid-range. I've owned it for about 3 years, so in my opinion it was definitely worth buying.

I love it because it always turns up! It is very bog standard looks wise so no-one would ever want to steal it. It isn't ideal in terms of keeping my clothes wrinkle-free for meetings, but it is secure and durable and that counts for a lot.

Price: £119; Size: 56 x 36 x 22 cm; Capacity: 64 ltr; Weight: 4 kg.

ELIZABETH FITZWILLIAM, MELBOURNE

Travels 300,000+ miles per year; Suitcase: Mulberry Large Trolley

I am completely in love with my Mulberry suitcase. It is super stylish and perfect travelling across the world (yes, I am in fashion so I guess the suitcase has to be too!). I have had it for years and it has held up incredibly well. If you're in an industry where making a first impression – down to the last detail - is important (even if you're doing something as unglamorous as waiting at the luggage carousel) then I think Mulberry luggage is ideal – it is chic without being faddy, seasonal, or ever going out of style.

I think my suitcase was definitely worth the money – it is just the best on long business trips. If it were to die on me I would replace it with another one just like it. I can't say it keeps my clothes wrinkle free, but then I don't have to wear suits and I have my clothes looked after by the hotel when I reach my destination, so it doesn't really matter.

I would be wary of checking in my suitcase if I weren't a frequent flyer with frequent flyer perks like business class or first class service, because I do get a lot of envious stares when people see me with it. However, it is completely lockable and it is very hard-wearing so I'm sure I am just being overly wary.

I highly recommend this suitcase – it is a classic. I use it so many times per year and it just keeps on going, what more could you ask for when you spend more time travelling for business than you do at home?

Price: £550; Size: 79 x 47 x 27 cm (H x W x D).

JAMES BENNETT, LONDON

Travels 25,000 miles per year; Suitcase: Antler Laser Cabin Suitcase

I use an Antler suitcase when I travel for business. It is best described as solid and stylish. It wasn't very expensive compared with other suitcase brands that business travellers tend to go for, and it was worth the money.

I love it because it is small enough to put in the overhead locker, but if I had to name a flaw I'd point the finger at the lack of a side pocket, which would be useful for carrying documents and my laptop.

This suitcase is very unlikely to break on me, and if it does it is covered by a 7 year warranty which is a great bonus.

The Antler is secure, extremely durable and reliable – a great option for short-haul business travel.

Price: £75; Size: 52 x 38 x 23 cm; Capacity: 38 ltr; Weight: 2.7 kg.

Which suitcase do you use for business travel? We'd love to know what you trust and why.

Check out these tips for how to keep your luggage safe and secure whilst you're on the road.

Photo credit: Luggage by digiart2001 via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Shot of the Day: South Kaibab Trail, Grand Canyon

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 22:54:00 GMT

We just love this shot that iloho member JavelinaJ submitted to the site earlier. What stunning light and what a breathtaking view of the Grand Canyon's South Kaibab Trail.

Come and check out the shot in all its glory here. Whilst you're at it, why not show off your own summer travel snaps? We'd love to see them!

Cheap Cruising: How to Hit the High Seas for (Much, Much) Less

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Thu, 03 Sep 2009 19:13:00 GMT

By Christina Newberry

Cruising has a reputation as an expensive way to travel, reserved for old folks and young families. But if you live in a port city, it can be a great way to sample the luxury lifestyle and see some exciting ports of call – for less than the price of a train ticket and a hostel.

The cruise industry has been hit hard by the global economic downturn, and that means there are some incredible deals to be had. This May, I headed off on mother-daughter adventure – a 7-night cruise through Alaska for just over $600 each, including all taxes and fees (except tips). In a few weeks, my boyfriend and I are cruising one-way to San Francisco for $240 each – less than the cost of a one-way flight.

Here's what you need to know to get the most out of your cruise dollars:

You'll get the best deal if you live in a departure port. If you have to fly in and add hotel costs, prices start to climb fast. From my home base in Vancouver, BC, I've got easy access to the Alaska and Pacific Coastal routes – check the cruiseline websites to find out if they come by your hometown.
Max out the amount of alcohol you're allowed to bring on board. Meals and entertainment are included on most cruise ships, but drinks are not. Generally, each passenger is allowed to bring one bottle of wine or equivalent onto the ship at the departure port. With two people to a cabin, that gives you two bottles to nurse through the first few days of your cruise at significantly less cost than buying on-board. The catch? You can only drink the wine in your cabin, technically. We had no trouble pouring it into glasses in the cabin and going to a nicer spot on the ship – we just couldn't take our own drinks into the bars or restaurants aboard.
Make your own shore excursions. In Alaska, we hiked, explored old gold-rush historical sites, and did a town walking tour, all without shelling out the big bucks for organizing an outing through the cruise line. For the hike we did in Juneau, our only cost was a $7 bus to the glacier. The cruise line sold day trips to the glacier park for about $80. Use sites like iloho or Tripadvisor to get the inside scoop on what's really worth seeing in each port of call, then arrange it yourself.
Make sneaky meals. Technically you're not supposed to take food out of the dining areas on cruise ships, but you're paying for that buffet feast, whether you eat it or not. Our trick was to take a couple extra rolls, pieces of cheese, packs of peanut butter, and pieces of fruit at breakfast to make ourselves picnic lunches for days when we were off the ship at lunchtime. Bring a couple of ziplock bags to make the sneak easier!
Take advantage of anything free. The ships have loads of free activities, but you'll quickly learn to spot which are worth attending and which are just sales pitches. One of the best, in my opinion, is the art auctions most ships feature. For one thing, you get a free glass of champagne. Plus, you get a chance to look at some really great art, and learn about some big names in the art world from very knowledgeable art auctioneers.

Follow these five tips and you can have a much cheaper cruise vacation than you ever thought possible. And have fun – there's nothing like indulging in a little (cheap) luxury on the high seas.

All pictures by Christina Newberry.

Go Trekking in Morocco with Bear Grylls

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Fri, 28 Aug 2009 23:26:00 GMT

I've been racking my brain about how I can cobble together £6,285 by the 25th February 2010. You see, if I can do it I'll be climbing Morocco's Mount Toubkal with wild man Bear Grylls.

I might be biased as my girlfriends and I are slightly in love with Bear, but this mountain experience from bespoke travel agency Black Tomato really is worth shouting from the top of Toubkal about.

Starting at Tigmi, a luxury boutique hotel just outside Marrakesh at the base of the Atlas Mountains, you'll be whisked to Toubkal's base camp by helicopter, where Bear Grylls will meet you. During a four hour trek to the peak of Mount Toubkal (4,167 metres) Bear will wow you with his survival stories. You get to see the man vs. the wild first hand during the trek back to HQ as Bear demonstrates how to fend for yourself in the great outdoors. After all that excitement you head back to Tigmi to relax for the rest of the weekend.

You don't need to be a hardcore mountain climber to qualify just of reasonable fitness as, according to Black Tomato, the Toubkal summit is "an uphill trek rather than a ropes-and-pulleys vertical climb, so the only equipment you'll be using (apart from snow-proof clothing) will be crampons and your very own muscle power."

The icing on the cake is that you can travel with your other half without them having to come on the hike too; those who prefer a bit of pampering with their panoramic mountain views can tag along on a three-day spa package.

Right, I'm off to begin the hunt for spare change.

PRICE

£6,285 per person travelling solo. £6,449 for a couple sharing, with one climber and one non-climber. £12,349 for a couple sharing, both climbing (not including flights).

WHEN TO GO

25th - 28th February 2010

WHAT'S INCLUDED

3 nights half board at Tigmi, airport transfers, one day climbing mount Toubkal with Bear Grylls, celebratory dinner and drinks.

For more information about the Bear Grylls Experience, contact Black Tomato by email on readytowear@blacktomato.co.uk or call +44 (0)845 224 7416 and ask for a member of the Ready to Wear team.

Photo Credits: Mount Toubkal Panoramic by timmo; Yebel Toubkal by gonzalo saenz de santa maria poullet via Flickr (Creative Commons).

First Class Honours for B&B University Accommodation in the UK

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 23:36:00 GMT

Hotel prices in the UK currently stand at 13% above the European average*. Though this statistic doesn't come as much of a surprise it's still beat-the-system exciting when you stumble across a unique UK accommodation experience that won't break the bank.

For travellers visiting England, the cities of London, Oxford, Cambridge, Durham, Canterbury and Newcastle all feature on the typical travel itinerary; a way to ensure your stay in these destinations is truly memorable - without having to cough up the average of £116 per night - is to book into a University room.

Pick from historic colleges in Oxford and Cambridge, plus the Universities of Newcastle, Nottingham, Leicester, Kent in Canterbury, Durham, Sheffield, University College London, Warwick, and Plymouth. Rooms are clean and many have en-suite bathrooms, internet access and power showers.

Indulge any Brideshead Revisited or Chariots of Fire fantasies you might have and from £40 per night stay in Oxford colleges such as Jesus, Balliol and Trinity College, or from £34 per night in Cambridge colleges including Christ's College, St. Catherine's and Corpus Christi. You can follow in the footsteps of famous real-life and literary Oxbridge alumni and eat in college halls, wander through the quads and college gardens, try your hand at punting, and drink in the college bar.

Things really have changed since I slept across the UK on friends' University bedrooms floors. Even as an impoverished student I would have happily paid from £28 a night to forego the sleeping bag on the cold, hard floor experience.

For more information on booking University bed and breakfast accommodation visit www.universityrooms.co.uk.

Photo Credits: Bodleian Montage by Daveybot; Oxford Punts by slack12.

*Source: trivago Hotel Price Index (tHPI), 6 August 2009.

Travel Photography Tips, Ho Chi Minh City: Where To Get The Best Shots Of Saigon

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Tue, 18 Aug 2009 18:54:00 GMT

By Kate Harris

Motorbikes, motorbikes, motorbikes. If a single image can represent a city, for Saigon it is the motorbike. It would be possible to fill an entire photo album with pictures of them alone; a motorbike as a school bus, a motorbike as a grocer's cart, a motorbike as a removal van. On the roads they flow like water through the city, churning like rapids at busy intersections. On the pavements they stand in endless metal rows of makeshift parking lots.

Motorbikes, however, are not the only things to capture the eye, or the imagination, in this city. Spectacular structures and scenes are woven together to reveal vivid impressions of Saigon past and present. Remnants of the Chinese and French occupations form the backdrop to the energetic hurly burly of this modern metropolis.

Two birds with one stone

The square at the top of Dong Khoi, one of District 1's most prominent streets, is an ideal place to get photographing. A central location, it includes two of the most notable architectural legacies of the French colonial era. The Notre Dame Cathedral, built towards the end of the 19th Century using bricks transported from Marseilles, stands at the north-east side of the square. In a city where open space is at a premium, make the most of the plot of grass in front the church to capture an image of this imposing structure.

Rotating ninety degrees to the right, is a similarly beautiful French structure, which at first glance appears to be a railway station but is in fact Ho Chi Minh City's Central Post Office. Under a dome shaped roof, individual wooden phone booths, adorned with clocks displaying times across the world, evoke the feeling of a black and white movie played out on cine reel. If you venture to the back of the post office, you will see a painting of Ho Chi Minh.

Located at the top of Dong Khoi. Notre Dame Cathedral: Han Thuyen. (The front gate may be locked. Also try the entrance on the south west side of the basilica.) Central Post Office: 2 Cong Xa Paris. Open 7am – 9.30pm.

Hard to miss

You won't be the only person photographing the People's Committee Building. This central landmark is right at the heart of downtown Saigon and hard to avoid. The building was originally constructed at the beginning of the 20th Century as the Hôtel de Ville (city hall) and it maintains its ornate colonial edifice. The interior, however, is off limits, so keep your snaps to the outside only.

People's Committee Building, located at the north-west end of Nguyen Hue.

Art's fine by me

Only a few hundred yards from the hectic Ben Thanh Market, the Fine Arts Museum is cloaked in an aura of calm and instantly transports you to colonial Saigon. Shuttered windows adorn a faded yellow façade, contrasted with blue ceramic detailing. The museum itself is not particularly notable for its art, but the interior does offer some interesting shots of its wrought iron staircase, tiled floors and the courtyard that the building encircles. Alternatively, you can wander around to the back of the museum (where you can stroll through some contemporary art galleries) and walk into the courtyard through the back entrance.

Fine Arts Museum, 97A Pho Duc Chinh. Open 9am – 4.30pm.

Gilded glory

Cholon, Saigon's Chinatown, straddles districts 5 and 6. It has the highest concentration of pagodas in the city and is well worth a visit with your camera. Quan Am Pagoda is one of the most notable and is popular with both Vietnamese and Chinese Buddhists. Arrays of colours greet you at the gatehouse, and inside, shafts of sunlight bounce off the heavily gilded altar, statues and wall decorations. Look out for the ornate panels just next to the entrance door, fashioned in gold and lacquer and be sure to walk behind the main altar to the rear courtyard where there is a statue to Quan Am, the goddess of mercy.

Cholon has a different feel to the rest of the city, and the best way to explore it is on foot, absorbing the sights and smells and unearthing the vast array of items on sale from fabric (see below) and handmade scissors to Chinese herbs and lion masks.

Quan Am Pagoda, 12 Lao Tu, Cholon.

The story lies within

Cha Tam Church, built at the turn of the 19th Century, stands in a courtyard so languid and picturesque that it feels a world away from hectic downtown Saigon. In fact, it played an integral part to the city's history when President Ngo Dinh Diem and his brother Ngo Dinh Nhu fled to it for refuge from an attempted coup on 2 November 1963. Upon surrendering, they were escorted from the church under orders of the coup leaders but the soldiers executed the brothers before arrival back in central Saigon.

Cha Tam Church, 25 Hoc Lac, at the western end of Tran Hung Dao, Cholon.

In a city teaming with commerce, almost every street offers an array of wares appealing to the shutterfly. Here's a selection to seek out:

Well heeled

Le Thi Hong Gam, the street adjacent to the Fine Arts Museum, displays a sea of shoes, from sandals to trainers, work shoes to flip-flops. Other leather goods such as belts and wallets lie nestled in between these knock-offs of well known brands. This street doesn't have the bustle of the market, but is impressive for its sheer quantity of goods.

I want to ride my bicycle

If the road isn't full of motorbikes, then it's full of motorbike parts. Pham Huu Chi in the Cholon district of Ho Chi Minh City is a grease monkey's and photographer's dream. The street is covered with everything you could need to build or repair a bike. Wing mirrors dangle from shop ceilings, lights are heaped in piles by the doorway, spare tyres stack up on the pavement and there is a constant racket of clanging metal.

Like the cut of your cloth

The rolls of fabric on sale in Saigon offer myriad photo opportunities. In Tan Dinh Market, cloth merchants sit atop of mountains of material, or perch on small stools eating noodles in the tiny gangways between each stall. The colourful silks in Ben Thanh Market brighten the dimness of this vast covered market built in 1914. But beware, by far the most tourist savvy of the markets, you may want to think twice before taking your camera out. Pop outside to see the main entrance with its belfry and clock, which has become a symbol of Saigon. To view the fabrics in the natural light, journey to Nguyen Trai and Do Ngoc Thanh streets in Cholon. Wait for a store-owner to unravel a spool and you can capture an unending parade of shapes and colours.

Tan Dinh Market: Hai Ba Trung, Walk 200 yards north-west along Hai Ba Trung from the intersection with Vo Thi Sau; Ben Thanh Market: intersection of Le Loi, Ham Nghi, Tran Hung Dao and Le Lai.

Knick Knack anyone?

War memorabilia abounds in Saigon and there are a variety of places to go to peruse for GI Zippos and combat boots. Dan Sinh Market, also known as The War Memorabilia Market, houses all of this and more and you have to fight through the busy networks of hardware stalls to track down your goods. The more photogenic option is the nearby street, Le Cong Kieu. This street has a large number of shops opening onto the road, offering an eclectic mix of artefacts and bric a brac. Old money, ceramic vases, gramophone players all jostle for space. If you switch from taking pictures to taking pieces, be careful, as not all of what is for sale is authentic.

Dan Sinh Market, 104 Yersin.

We like it fresh

The mountains of fresh food piled high on carts, or transported on motorbikes make excellent photo opportunities and there's no shortage of markets and street restaurants to snap away at. Most central is Ben Thanh Market, which is also surrounded by a hubbub of food stalls. For some more open-air markets, take a wander along the streets leading off Nguyen Trai in Cholon. Down here, you can also weave in and out of the stalls selling traditional Chinese herbs around Trieu Quang Phuc Street.

And finally... time to unwind

Ho Chi Minh City does not have many parks to boast of, and yet there is an unmistakeable feeling of tropical greenery in some areas of the city, most notably along the banks of the Saigon River. Perhaps the most relaxing way to record the river, and tune your zoom lens onto the vibrant pink bougainvillea leaves, is to take a taxi out to District 2, known as An Phu. Visit the waterside bar and restaurant The Deck for a sundowner and snap away in peaceful seclusion.

The Deck Restaurant, 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, District 2, HCMC; Tel: +84 (0) 8344 6632.

Photo Credits: Photos by Kate Harris, apart from 'The Notre Dame Cathedral in Saigon' by Quang Minh (YILKA) and 'Hotel de Ville de Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam' by yeowatzup.

'21' Club: Quintessential New York Dining Experience

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 18:18:00 GMT

By Harriet Torry

Tucked between the skyscrapers of Manhattan's Midtown sits a brownstone building that, during the Prohibition era, was an outlawed speakeasy. Today, it's '21' Club: a celebrated bar and restaurant. But the cheeky speakeasy vibe lingers from 1930, the year '21' opened, and comes across the moment you cross under the jockey statues awning the entrance. This is a place that mixes gourmet dining with soul.

The 'old New York' location is historic too, and the staff are charming. Although it's a high-end restaurant, wood-panelled with red leather seating, the atmosphere is friendly and fun without a hint of pretension. The clientèle is also a mix: from celebrities, to groups of executives, to couples and families.

'21' Club has a heavyweight history: as well as countless celebrity guests, it has been featured in more movies than any other New York restaurant, from Wall Street to an episode of Sex and the City.

The menu strongly favours East Coast cuisine such as Maine Lobster, Vermont Lamb and soft shell crab. There are also the classics like the 21 burger, shrimp cocktail and steaks.

'We try to stay "true American"', says head chef John Greeley. 'That's a bit of everything: East Coast, Southern and Low Country cooking, New England... We use local products, follow the seasons and don't like to ship proteins far. That way they're ultra fresh, the vegetables too.'

At 21, there's both the main restaurant, the Bar Room, and a lounge for drinks and light bites like burgers and crab cake, with a wine list of young reds and whites. The wine list in the Bar Room is vast and justly won the Wine Spectator Grand Award in 2008.

I went for the tasting menu to see what 21 Club has to offer. It started off well with an exquisitely fresh tomato gazpacho, creatively jazzed-up with poached shrimp. Next came chilled Maine lobster on a light asparagus terrine. It was complemented elegantly with a glass of Albariño Burgans.

After the soft shell crabs, and in keeping with the season, came sautéed Halibut with roasted oysters. The Halibut was as tender as the summer day is long. It came on a bed of corn and very smoky bacon.

The main courses rounded off with a fine filet of beef. Desserts started with the chef's fruit soup and blackberry sorbet. Then came the tasting menu's apex of indulgence: Manjari Bombe with a hazelnut brûlée centre and chocolate ice cream. It tasted as good as it sounds, and was even decorated with edible gold leaf. A glass of raisiny Madeira Bual Cossart-Gordon and petit fours brought the intricate desserts to a rounded close.

21's tasting menu of seven courses costs US$90, or US$150 with specially chosen wines. Most of the main courses on the à la carte menu cost around US$40, but until October 31st the restaurant is offering a three-course, recession-crushing set menu that costs US$24.07 for lunch and US$35 for dinner.

I asked the head chef what an international traveller with one night in New York should try from the menu. 'I would order the mixed grill because it showcases American game', says Greeley. 'And a steak because most European beef is grass-fed and leaner. Ours, being corn fed and aged, has a unique flavor and richness. As regards seafood, the halibut with razor clams, because you don't see either too often outside the States.'

At '21' Club - an intimate space with friendly yet polished service - American cuisine, American ingredients and American charm provide the quintessential New York experience.

'21' Club, 21 West 52nd Street, New York, New York 10019; Tel: +1 (800) 721 CLUB; Web: www.21club.com.

For opening hours and dress code, please check the website.

Photos courtesy of Orient-Express.

A Week in Jordan: Two wives, "not-quite-Wadi Rum" and a human-sized hot water bottle

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Fri, 14 Aug 2009 01:10:00 GMT

By Ross Bowers

Morocco made me slightly hesitant to go on another holiday in an Arab country – the happy snaps look idyllic, but they don't reveal the heat, hassle, snorting and swindling going on just out of shot. Nevertheless, I was intrigued by Petra and the Dead Sea and thought a trip to Jordan was an opportunity not to be missed.

Travelling with two pretty girls added to my trepidation about heading back to North Africa as I adopted the self-aggrandising role of guardian of the two blondes.

'Would you like to buy a necklace for your tall wife?'

'No thank you very much'

'How about for your short wife?'

Confused and envious eyes followed me everywhere and I was on red alert for phlegm assaults, pick pockets and devious taxi drivers. I was worrying unnecessarily – the girls are tougher than me, the Jordanian people are kind and honest, and the country is clean and well organised. The best bit about travelling to Jordan is that most of the sights can be covered in a week; the tourist circuit is fairly well trodden so getting around is easy and there are always people to share transport with.

We landed in the bustling metropolis of Amman, spending a couple of nights there whilst visiting the ancient ruins at Jerash before hotfooting it down to Petra along the King's Highway, a rich chain of historical and archaeological sites. We stopped at Madaba, the 'City of Mosaics', Mount Nebo (which, according to the final chapter of Deuteronomy, is where Moses was given a view of the Promised Land), and the fortified town and castle of Karak.

Petra alone makes the trip to Jordan worthwhile; one of the seven wonders of the modern world, it is a vast city, carved into the red rock by the Nabataeans more than 2,000 years ago. It was an important hub for the silk, spice and other trade routes that linked China, India and southern Arabia with Egypt, Syria, Greece and Rome.

Since Petra was featured in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, the locals have gone a little Indiana crazy with most stalls offering some sort of Harrison Ford souvenirs. But it is hard not to be transported to another era as speeding horses gallop past, weaving their way through colonnaded streets to the treasury, temples, sacrificial altars and eventually the Monastery up 800 rock cut steps. Camels and donkeys provide every opportunity for some amusing photos along the way.

Next stop was the desert and towering rock formations of Wadi Rum - Lawrence of Arabia's headquarters during the Arab Revolt against the Ottomans (1917 – 1918). Here we experienced our first bit of swindling.

Wadi Rum itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is actually a fenced reserve. Several tour operators however, take you just outside of the site, put you up in sub-standard tented camps and drive you around in jeeps pretending that you are in the real Wadi Rum. Thankfully they are so convincing that we enjoyed the experience in blissful ignorance – only realising later that we had visited 'not-quite-Wadi Rum'. Our suspicions were only aroused when we realised that we were the only guests staying in our tented camp.

The next day we witnessed the breathtaking beauty of the Dana Nature Reserve (where the Feynan Eco Lodge and project is excellent) en route to two nights at the Marriott Dead Sea Resort and Spa for the luxury finale to the holiday.

The lowest point on earth, the Dead Sea, is a marvel – the health benefits of the sea itself and the mud are well known and we quickly covered ourselves in mud and floated whilst reading a newspaper. Hours of amusement: until you get sea water in your eyes.

I tried out the most unique Dead Sea treatment I could find, a mud / wrap / flotation, which turned out to be the worst hour of my life. I was greeted by a large Jordanian man, given a pathetic pair of paper undies, covered in mud, wrapped in cling film and then engulfed in a human-sized hot water bottle with only my head sticking out for air. Large Jordanian man then left so that I could 'relax' / suffer from acute claustrophobia. It was so hot that the mud and sweat dripped in to my eyes and since I was in a cling film straight-jacket there wasn't much I could do about it.

After that experience I decided to stick to eating and drinking. Just about any cuisine is available in Jordan, and if you can avoid the drive through Starbucks there are some great dishes to try out. I particularly enjoyed the Mansaf, which is a Bedouin dish consisting of rice, a rich broth made from dry sour milk (jameed), and either lamb or chicken. Simple, but tasty.

On our final morning, the maître d' welcomed us to breakfast with a cheerful 'It's nice to be here', um – I think you mean 'It's nice to have you here', but it was nice to be there - Jordan is an amazing country where you can relax and enjoy a real sense of adventure and cultural learning at the same time.

Photos by Ross Bowers, except Bedouin Man by hazy jenius, Wadi Rum by Tbass Effendi and Dead Sea Reflection by Mr. Kris via Flickr.

Tips for Travellers: What's Hot in London this August and September

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Wed, 12 Aug 2009 22:53:00 GMT

Heading to London this month or next and itching to know what's cool in the UK capital? You've come to the right place.

The all-knowing concierge team from Claridges, the Connaught and the Berkeley, aka "the city's best-informed residents", share their advice on what to do and where to go if you're planning a trip to London.

AUGUST

Drink...

Tini: The latest venture from the team behind Whisky Mist, Mahiki and the Punchbowl is glamorous cocktail bar Tini in the ever chic South Kensington. Just a stones throw away from Boujis and Mamilanji, this new haunt should prove just as popular with the social elite.

Tini, 87-89 Walton Street, South Kensington, London, SW3 2HP: +44 (0)20 7589 8558.

Eat...

Lutyens: This summer Sir Terence Conran proves once again that he is a master of the dining room-come-bar-come-members club. Hot on the heals of his last opening, the Boundary in Shoreditch, the wily old fox has done it again with this sublime spot on Fleet Street. You'd better book now because this one could be popular: classic French cuisine with a dash of Irish flair.

Lutyens, 85 Fleet Street, London, EC4Y 1AE; +44 (0)20 7583 8385.

Party...

Michael Jackson Tribute Concert: Following the tragic passing of Michael Jackson the Tribute Concert will be going ahead at London's O2 Arena on Saturday 29th August. Who will be performing? Well that is a closely guarded secret, however I can assure you it is going to be huge! Email me if you want tickets on cbogni@the-connaught.co.uk

SEPTEMBER

Eat...

Terroirs: At first glance, Terroirs seems like just another conventional attempt to transplant a traditional French bistro to the mean streets of central London. But look beyond the old advertising posters and wooden chairs, and you realise that there's something rather special going on here. The reasonably priced food combines creativity with a respect for full-on flavours and impeccable sourcing. Oh, and the wine is ok too!

Terroirs, 5 William IV Street WC2N 4DW; +44 (0)20 7036 0660.

Chill...

Spa Illuminata: Stressed? Worn out? Just need a little bit of pampering? This is quite simply the best day spa in London. Whether it's a manicure or a full body scrub you will be treated like royalty in this temple to relaxation.

Spa Illuminata, 63 South Audley Street, London, W1K 2QS; +44 (0)20 7499 7777.

Look...

Jeff Koons at the Serpentine: Inflatable toys? Check. Popeye? Check. Baffeling kitch? Check. The New York native and enfant terrible of the art world has bought this blockbuster exhibition to London. September 13th is the last day, so catch this one while you can.

Serpentine Gallery, Kensington Gardens, London, W2 3XA; +44 (0)20 7402 6075.

Luxury London hotels Claridge's, the Connaught, and the Berkeley are part of the Maybourne Hotel Group. For more information visit www.maybourne.com.

Photo Credits: Lutyens courtesy of Lutyens Restaurant, Bar & Cellar Rooms; Terroirs by Ewan-M, Jeff Coons Popeye Series by Chris Pattison.

The Business Traveller's Guide to Macau

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Tue, 11 Aug 2009 00:36:00 GMT

We've just uploaded The Business Traveller's Guide to Macau, check it out here.

The new guide is designed to help busy business travellers to Macau know how and where to wow clients and colleagues. It includes tips on where to stay, eat, drink, shop, spa, gamble and the best places to experience Macau.

We hope you like it - do leave your comments.

Iguanas, Candlelight, and Skinny Dipping: Rustic Luxury in Tulum, Mexico

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 20:13:00 GMT

By Christina Newberry

The Internet can be a fickle ally when it comes to planning adventures. You can find amazing deals, but you can also get yourself into hot water by booking with a shady company or hotel. Or, you can have your heart broken bit by bit as you discover perfect place after perfect place to stay that just happen to be way beyond your travel budget.

This last scenario happened to me when I came across the website for Azulik, an "ecoresort" in Tulum, Mexico. The concept is magical – large, private cabanas overlooking the roaring surf, with soaker tubs on every balcony. At Azulik the eco-resort concept means no electricity, no phone, and no air conditioning, but the indoor and outdoor tubs promise plenty of hot water. And you can summon a staff member to take your room service order by raising a flag at your cabana's front door. The online pictures are stunning. I was smitten.

The only problem? Rooms start at US$325 per night. On a trip that was built around hostel stays and self-catering apartments at a tenth of that price, Azulik was simply out of reach. I cursed at the picture of a woman lounging in an outdoor soaking tub, overlooking the sea below.

And then – oh, and then – I noticed the small link on Azulik's homepage pointing to current specials. Among other deals, I found the one that would cure my heartbreak – 60% off regular rates for booking a room within 24 hours of arrival. With a month in Mexico and no set plans of where I had to be and when, this option was workable. Yes!

Soon, my partner and I found ourselves settling in for three nights in the honeymoon suite. Regularly priced at US$350 per night, the 60% discount brought it to US$140 per night: still not budget accommodation, but within the realm of the reasonable. With a king-sized bed draped in a lovely mosquito net, plus hanging beds and soaker tubs carved from large trees both inside and outside, it was stunning. I got myself into that soaking tub as soon as I could – now I was the woman in the picture I had seen online. Bliss!

As we eased into the vibe of the place, I took advantage of the free morning yoga classes, got used to evenings lit only by candlelight, and continued to be blown away by our good fortune. I even came to appreciate the iguanas who were on constant watch on the cliffs below (except the one who skittered into the room to lick jam off the remains of a breakfast tray). As I relaxed, I started to warm up to the idea of leaving my swimsuit behind and hitting the beach below.

Ah, yes – Azulik has a clothing-optional beach (it is, in fact, a clothing-optional resort). Raised in a straight-laced protestant home, I never pictured myself frolicking naked in the waves (a long-time Vancouver resident, I've never even ventured near Wreck Beach, our local clothing-optional haunt). But as Mexican time took hold and the eco-resort atmosphere seeped into my soul, I found myself throwing caution to the wind. In the crashing surf, bare as the day I was born, looking up at our cabana on the clifftop, I realised – life is simple; life is good.

IF YOU GO

Azulik is the most luxurious of three properties that make up EcoTulum Resorts and Spa. Copal offers mid-range accommodations, and Zahra caters to the budget traveller. All have direct beach access. Copal and Azulik are clothing-optional.

Where: Tulum, Mexico.

Cost: High season (Nov. 15 to April 30 and July 15 – Aug. 31): US$40 per night for a basic no-bath cabana at Zahra up to US$350 per night for the luxurious honeymoon suite at Azulik. Online specials can save you 20% – 60%.

Contacts: The resort's main site, www.ecotulum.com, offers information on all three properties. For individual properties, visit www.azulik.com, www.cabanascopal.com and www.zahra.com.mx.

Photo Credits: Images by Christina Newberry, except 'Azulik, Doce' by jason_chinn via Flickr.

Going to Hell and Back on Grand Cayman

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 00:18:00 GMT

By Connie Motz

In the Caribbean, tucked underneath Cuba and only 100 square miles in total, lie the three Cayman Islands – Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac, and Little Cayman.

The Cayman Islands maintain a high standard of living and are known for their abundance of white sand beaches and endless water sports, including snorkelling and world class scuba diving.

With many shore excursion options available for the first time visitor, it can visiting the Caymans be overwhelming but there is a certain draw in being able to say you've been to Hell and back.

Located mid-island on Grand Cayman, Hell is a town with hardly any inhabitants – there are a few souvenir stores and the all important post office; nothing like sending a card back home from Hell just to prove you've survived.

Shore excursions label Hell as a town "featuring a pre-historical rock formation that some think Hell must surely look like." A viewing platform leads visitors to see shards of black limestone jutting out of the lifeless darkened ground as if it were the remains of a volcanic hell fire.

The ancient geological formation of jagged rocks is surrounded by dark and gloomy waters presenting an ominous, almost sinister scene. Educational guides explain that the rocks are a combination of iron shore (a type of dolomite) and limestone estimated at being 1.5 million years old.

The razor-sharp blackened rock appears to be volcanic in nature but is only coated in dark algae. The somewhat horrific landscape of Hell is framed by lush green mangroves and palm trees reminding visitors that the true beauty of the island still exists.

Everyone is invited to take the token tacky tourist picture with the cardboard cut-out devil. Postcards and other souvenirs are available for purchase with sayings like "I've been to Hell and back" and "HFD – Hell Fire Department."

Many visitors to Grand Cayman will experience a trip to Hell and will live to tell the tale.

Photo Credits: Welcome to Hell by J. Stephen Conn, Hell's Rocks by Connie Motz.

The Best Books for Summer 2009

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Thu, 30 Jul 2009 22:16:00 GMT

I love a good list, and National Geographic Traveler has come up trumps with the "50 Books for Summer"; whether you're going to Australia or Venezuela, there will be something for you here.

Here's a preview of the top 10.

1. Nepal: The Snow Leopard, by Peter Matthiessen (1978).

NatGeo says: Matthiessen is a multi-task traveler. In this book—one of many fine ones he's written—he and zoologist friend George Schaller trek through Nepal in physical search of Himalayan blue sheep and the rare snow leopard, and in spiritual search (Matthiessen is a Zen Buddhist) of the Lama of Shey at the ancient Buddhist shrine on Crystal Mountain. Enlightenment, anyone? Buy 'The Snow Leopard' now.

2. Patagonia: In Patagonia, by Bruce Chatwin (1977).

NatGeo says: Let's face it: Chatwin was weird, but brilliantly so. This book, launched around a childhood fancy for his grandma's scrap of giant sloth skin, takes him to the "uttermost part of the Earth," from Rio Negro to the Chilean town of Punta Arenas. Buy 'In Patagonia' now.

3. The Arctic: Arctic Dreams: Imagination and Desire in a Northern Landscape by Barry Lopez (1986).

NatGeo says: Lopez is dreamy, and his meditation on the "last frontiers" of the Arctic is as much about natural history as it is about human landscapes of imagination, desire, and progress. This National Book Award-winner is based on his travels throughout the North, including Baffin Island, Canada's Northwest Territories, and Greenland. Buy 'Arctic Dreams' now.

4. Hong Kong: Hong Kong, by Jan Morris (1989).

NatGeo says: The ever-piquant Morris masterfully unravels the enigma that is Hong Kong, from its Sino-British bipolarity to its megalithic economic structure, its hypercrowded urban landscape to its surprisingly under-explored nature reserves. Buy 'Hong Kong' now.

5. Australia: In a Sunburned Country, by Bill Bryson (2000).

NatGeo says: Bryson would probably be the perfect desert-island companion—an acerbic naturalist and historian who just can't keep an absurd moment or thought to himself. His Australia story teems with toxic caterpillars and ridiculous place-names ("Tittybong," for one). Buy 'In a Sunburned Country' now.

6. Venezuela: In Trouble Again: A Journey Between the Orinoco and the Amazon, by Redmond O'Hanlon (1988).

NatGeo says: Here's where travel becomes, perhaps, too adventurous: Thrill-seeking, hilarious O'Hanlon takes a four-month river trip and trek in the jungles of Venezuela, a buggy, shadowy, prehistoric-seeming netherworld. The result? An illuminating diary of the jungle's wildlife and people. Buy 'In Trouble Again: A Journey Between Orinoco and the Amazon' now.

7. Paris: A Moveable Feast, by Ernest Hemingway (1964).

NatGeo says: "This is how Paris was in the early days when we were very poor and very happy," recollects Hemingway in this vivid memoir of 1920s Paris, a metropolis brimming with creative types and revolutionary ideas. Buy 'A Moveable Feast' now.

8. China: The River at the Center of the World: A Journey Up the Yangtze, and Back in Chinese Time, by Simon Winchester (1996).

NatGeo says: Historian Winchester seems to know everything, but he's such an engaging raconteur you can hardly begrudge him his smarts. Here he travels the 3,434-mile (5,526-kilometer)Yangtze River, reflecting on the historic importance of the river and the social straits in which the Chinese now find themselves. Buy 'The River at the Center of the World: A Journey Up the Yangtze, and Back in Chinese Time' now.

9. U.S.: Travels with Charley: In Search of America, by John Steinbeck (1961).

NatGeo says: "When I was very young and the urge to be someplace else was on me, I was assured by mature people that maturity would cure this itch," Steinbeck begins. The itch in question went unscratched until, at 58, he launched a road trip from Maine to California—accompanied by his poodle, Charley. The America he discovers surprises both himself and his readers. Buy 'Travels with Charley in Search of America' now.

10. Hungary: Valeria's Last Stand, by Marc Fitten (2009).

NatGeo says: This stripped-down modern day fairy tale depicts Zivatar, a fictional village in Hungary, as a place where not much new happens — until one fateful day when the town grump, 68-year-old Valeria, sees the elderly village potter as if for the first time, and is thunderstruck with love. Much of the charm of this tale lies in Fitten's portrayal of Zivatar, a place so far off the beaten track that German tanks (during WWII), Russian tanks (during the 1956 revolution), and even the modern highway all ignore it. Buy 'Valeria's Last Stand' now.

See the full list at traveler.nationalgeographic.com.

Photo Credit: Rest in Peace by Randy Son Of Robert via Flickr (Creative Commons).

The Apartment at The Connaught: London Luxury Hits New New Heights

emma.t@iloho.com (Emma Torry) — Thu, 30 Jul 2009 01:20:00 GMT

If you're aiming for the pinnacle of London luxury next time you travel to The Big Smoke, check out The Connaught hotel's hot new offering, The Apartment.

Designed by David Collins and located on the top floor of The Connaught, The Apartment mixes art, culture and literature to create the feel of a private collector's home. The space comprises of a double height sitting-room, dining room, a master-bedroom with a dressing room and en-suite marble bathroom, a guest bedroom with en suite bathroom, and two landscaped decked terraces with views over the rooftops of Mayfair.

David Collins said he intended to create "an iconic, unique home from home". The Apartment is design for "a discerning client: well travelled, informed and with an appreciation of design and the art of living. It is a private place for a chosen few and a very personal design statement".

Distinctive touches in The Apartment include a library of twentieth century novels, art history books and rare volumes; antique and contemporary artworks; lilac leather lined cabinetry; a bespoke card table; a four poster bed; a custom designed white marble fireplace and a capsule collection of Guerlain beauty products.

Fashionistas can brief The Connaught to scour the neighbouring designer shops for goodies and have them waiting in the dressing room prior to arrival. Foodies and hosts-with-the-most can have their personal Connaught butler arrange a private dinner party, with menus specially designed by two-Michelin star chef Hélène Darroze.

The Apartment's rates are upon request so you can bet your bottom dollar luxury this serious has a price tag to match.

The Connaught, Carlos Place, London W1K 2AL; Tel: +44 (0)207 499 7070, Web: www.the-connaught.co.uk.